Although superglue feels like a does-all-jobs kind of solution (it's called 'super' for a reason!) It's actually the last glue I'd use for most modelling jobs. It's such a brittle bond and you have to be so careful when handling it. When bonding plastikard to plastikard, I'd recommend the kind of glue that comes in airfix kits. I use Revell Contacta. It'll bond better and gives you some time to reposition. Plus it won't glue your fingers together! Rockit card glue from Deluxe Materials actually bonds a wide variety of materials and is very strong too. That's what I'd use for plastic to wood. Also, scoring plastikard lightly with a blade and 'snapping' it from the main sheet can result in a cleaner and straighter edge. Great video as ever. Good luck with your next one 😊
I've mentioned it before, but the way you include the "failures" is a massive reassurance to those of us who like to get a bit over dramatic when something doesn't work. Keep up the good work Charlie.
Thank you Charlie. Thank you most of all for not being perfect. As someone once told me. 'Try very hard to learn from the mistakes of others. You haven't got time to make them all yourself'. Bless you Steve.
This is exactly why I love your channel Charlie, not only do you show your successes but you are not shy to show the failures as well, so we can all learn ... thank you, cheers, Garry from DownUnder
I have been so inspired by watching your videos that after 50 years of dreaming of building a model railway I have finally taken the first steps. I did dabble in a garden line in the early 1990s but that was short lived. I'm 60 now and semi retired, so no excuses to getting it started.
You lured me in there. I was thinking that your new platform was looking so much better than my Peco stuff and perhaps I should start again? Then, I thought those ceramic tile were a bit pricey but if Everard and Chadwick have got them…… ….and then reality struck! Thanks as ever for your honest thoughts, some new ideas but also some reassurance that mine aren’t too bad.
Thank you very much for these videos. I’m 47 and just got back into trains after about a third of a century (now N gauge). They are extremely informative. Unlike some of the more melodramatic ones there is no superfluous flummery. I really enjoy these extremely well enunciated and clear tutorials
I think the tiles are interesting and the fact they are easy broken lends itself to interesting weathering potentials especially if your making disused and abandoned tracks, you could always glue the tiles to a strip of plasticard for additional support underneath when used for platform edging and that way everything would be neat an straight.
Charlie for my latest platform rebuild I used the peco walls/edging which have built in copers. Please note the hornby platform gauge provides too larger gap to the platform edge which results in an over large gap between the following stock and the platform edge I 3D printed my own spacers with the correct edge distance
Fantastic content there Charlie! Another ‘live and learn’ lesson for us. Thanks for trialing the tiles for us all…….looking forward to seeing the next video with your preferred solution for the platforms.
I watch alot of model railway channels I just find them fascinating. As of yesterday Everard junction was my favourite until I stumbled across your channel now I'm binge watching your series..
If you have a Silhouette or Cricut cutting machine, you can get it to scribe a piece of A4 1mm plasticard with your slabs. Paint them with an airbrush, snap them all up into individual bits and you can lay them like these ceramic tiles but without the brittleness. The colour variation from the airbrush also gives a very nice subtle variation from slab to slab. I just paved three whole platform tops this way and yes, it took ages, but it looks really good and basically only cost the price of 2 or 3 sheets of plastic. You can glue them down with PVA or copydex and fill any small gaps with grout.
After a vacation day filled with bricklaying - wich I hate and am really not good at, but I am too cheap to hire a bricklayer - a new video from Chadwick is just what the doctor prescribed to relax 😊👍.
It sure is. And entertaining. Don’t be sad because the tiles didn’t work for You. Richard does car bodywork repair for a living (so do I). We are used to fiddle in the 10th of a millimeter range and are a bunch of strange freaks. That’s why we a capable of laying these things straight. Tbh, I would go the plasticard route either.
So many comments and suggestions all go to demonstrate the interest and appreciation for what you do. Not in any way a disaster, just a slightly steeper learning curve ..... an inspiration to a lot, if not most, of us. Thank you.
Absolutely brilliant video, and this is why I'm a patreon. I LOVE people who 1. credit and shout out to those who influence and inspire them. It shows class and respect. 2. show their mistakes. This is something that encourages and supports everyone to just keep on keeping on. Thanks Charlie, as always :)
Hi Charlie that brick work you are displaying is called English bond that is alternative courses of headers and stretchers, when i was an apprentice brick layer many years ago. Well Charlie your video couldn't have come at a better time as i am at the same stage as you so to speak. I said a while ago to you that you show all, warts an all when you make your videos { that is mistakes } and don't shy away from showing them, and how to put them right great stuff . That was a great tip regarding the distance between the platform wall and the edge of the sleeper ,LOVELY as you say. Thank you Charlie once again for showing me/us how to do it and not to do it. cant wait for the the next video.
I admire your patience and honesty about when it’s time to call it a day and think of another idea. Unfortunately I’m one of those Metcalf platform kit persons with some modern platform edge stickers which have the tactile edge and yellow lines which are available on a well known model site. Thanks for making these videos, every one of them will be of help to many modellers, Andy.
Full respect for showing things that didn't work (for whatever reason). I am sure that helps modellers everywhere. Good to see the station being developed.
Your videos are extremely useful and refreshingly honest Charlie. It’s good to have someone show things that don’t work, and why, as much as it is to see when things do work. It’s also reassuring that those of us that do struggle aren’t completely useless after all! Everyone has problems with their layout. Looking forward to round 2!
Brilliant video Charlie. I could feel your frustration at the end. I also love that you include mistakes and problems in your videos. The one where you mention that you tubers spend ages getting their running sessions perfect and that in reality they get derailments and stalling etc saved me from giving up on my model railway. Many thanks again
Hi Charlie, like you said I use scribed plastic card for the slabs and fine wet and dry for the tarmac. I use a cheap guillotine to cut the strips. Loved watching you do this as it was really informative 👍
Once again and as usual, merci beaucoup, Charlie, for taking the time to make those videos where we can learn a lof of you and eventually with you! 😀 Cheers.
Hi Charlie it's a bind when after taking hours marking out platform edges and gluing down loads of tiles and it goes all to pot.. I had the same experience and in the end opted for metcalfe paving slabs.. they are great. Self adhesive no messy superglue etc.
Thank you Charlie for another informative and enjoyable video. I must admit fiddling with all those tiny tiles would drive me mad. I used a process shown in Hornby Magazine using plywood and hardboard to provide the overhang. I sprayed the top surface with grey paint and added plasticard to the edging and painted. I used a Humbrol filler to then sort out any lines where I joined the sections of card together. I think it turned out quite well in the end. Good luck with round 2 for your platforms.
Thank you Charlie that was another excellent video. A learning curve of some degree, but hey "c'est la vie". We've all been there! Because of the way you approach your videos, is why the reason they are so liked. Looking forward to part 2 Take care, mate!👍
That is so interesting, just in the process of designing a new track layout and this is going to be really helpful. Thanks for sharing, Great Video. Linda ~ Loweville Junction Railroad 🚂
Another great video Charlie which has generated a lot of interesting comments and information from others. Thanks for sharing your pain with us. It really is useful. Roy.
Excellent video, Charlie, and an interesting feature on the platform construction. Previously in 'OO" I have used MDF cut to the width of the finished platform (including overhang), turned it upside down and used a router to remove the amount necessary in several passes in order to obtain the depth of overhang and thickness of the coping slab necessary. I have recently been faffing around with laser-cut platform kits for my 'N' gauge build and have lost the will to live (far too much warpage on these very thin kits for N) and will revert to the same technique as for the OO. Looking forward to the next video.
Hi Charlie I dont always comment but have been watching you for quite a few years, Just getting back into it after health issue and being unable to do much for the last 2 years . Thank you for this episode While i am N scale , You have just answered my question on building a station , I always enjoy your channel Thank you for the inspiration Regards Greg
I am glad you shared this about the platform edge. I am a little clumsiest people around. I am sure I would break these tiles so I will go for scribed plasticard. Much safer idea for me. Great video, again Charlie. Well done.
Hi Charlie, another fantastic video as always, I am very new to the hobby and find your channel very informative….. those tiles look like they are made from French chalk
That’s a great money saving video! Thanks for the tips there Charlie. I’ve plenty of platform length to build myself, so a lot of useful pointers to take note of. My only problem is that one of the platforms is going to be on a curve, so am going to have to take edge clearances into account. I suppose the same if you’re approaching from a curve, also making allowances for clearance when using an end of platform head shunt. Very much food for thought! Looking forward to part two to this one. Excellent presentation again, much appreciated. dB.
Thanks Charlie, a learning experience that has saved quite a few of us, wasted hours of toil. I have used various methods over the years but can’t really beat scribed plasticard for platforms.
I'm sure it's mentioned elsewhere, but I used laser cut "steam era" platform edging. They come in strips which makes them very easy to lay. As always a great video and it's comforting to know that advanced modellers don't always get it right.
Many thanks for publishing these findings Charlie, you've saved us a lot of strife. I'm considering using painted plasticard tiles instead. More work initially but it'll be more durable in the long run.
Hi again Charlie Your patience is amazing. Always interesting and educational. It's always good to know what not to do as well. Many thanks. I think it's a Peco platform for me! Stay safe. Howard
Very informative as always Charlie. As for covering the sides of the platforms you advised against using brick papers, as the paper discolours when it comes into contact with wet PVA used to fix the ballast. This is true if you don't spay Matt varnish onto the brick paper first. If sprayed with varnish then the paper won't discolour. I have numerous Scalescenes structures on my layout which are all brick paper covered and have ballasted up and around them without issue. Cheers Euan
A very salutary lesson, thank you! The set of platforms I’m about to build has to have a rounded end to match the track geometry. I’ll be keen to see what techniques other commentators might use for constructing such unique platform shapes.
Hi Charlie, great video. I've been going through this process myself at the moment! The technique I've been using is the paper method for the brick effect and sealing it with a quality matt varnish to prevent the water from the ballasting process softening the paper it also protects from UV damage, I've then covered a strip of 2mm square balsa in brick capping paper and glueing this to the top of the platform edge, this sets the distance of the platform and carriage. The top of the platform is a strip of 3mm MDF cut to the shape and width of the platform this is then sanded with 180 grit paper, lightly wiped to remove any dust and painted in a suitably pleasing colour, this gives a nice asphalt appearance without mucking around with expense liquid systems. I've then routed a shallow step in the top edge (using a rabbet router) to fit Plasticard tile effect this could be substituted for the ceramic tiles in your video and would probably give a better fitment, the routed edge makes the tiles flush with asphalt surface. once I've completed this I'll post some pics to your FB page and Hornby modelling for beginner's page when I get chance. keep up the good work, god knows we need something to watch as the tv is completely banjaxed these days! all the best, if you read this far well done, and all the best from Steve in Australia
Brilliant stuff from Nigel, I plan my layouts using SCARM so now I can design my platforms on the printout to ensure the correct placing for straight platform sections. Curved sections sadly require some testing using the old pencil on the longest coach method.
I admire your dedication to accuracy and getting the scale just right - I;m still at the "that looks roughly right so it will do" stage. I have to say that yours looks by far the better!
Hi Charlie. I’m glad that I’m not the only one to seriously mess up. As it happens I’m in the process of building my own platforms. I’ve done it several times over the years but this time I’m trying to build curved platforms and it’s proving a nightmare. Getting the clearances right is driving me crazy. But a few tips that might help you. I use Mek Pak from Slaters as this glue can be brushed on and is really easy to use benefitting from capillary adhesion. I also paint my plasticard sheets before cutting up using little pillars to hide joins and staggering the thin topping strips to help hiding the sectional look. I look forward to part two. Regards Carl
Do you have to glue them down with an overhang? I have a mix of platform types. The Hornby ones have a painted edge and are flush with the platform's edge. The other type I have used is the Metcalfe kits and they have a sticky edging strip which sticks on the edge with no overhang. The overhang is built by the walls under the platform. You could use a router to remove some of the wood, leaving you with a platform edge to stick the tiles along, they will not be chipped or broken by a shunter with the outside frame drive. I hope this makes sense. Martin. (Thailand) Yorkdale LNER Reservation Railway.
It's always perversely reassuring to see that other modellers encounter such disasters. You are never alone. One of the many reasons that I have for basing my model railway on the old Highland Railway is that I didn't have to worry about overhanging platform edges.😀
Hi Charlie, I went the cheap and cheerful route and used Metcalfe cardboard kit as there is only me to see it Another great video , better luck next Charlie with your platform edge.
It's frustrating when it doesn't work out, but well done for having a go. I had a very similar experience on Frontington, where I used tiny individual tiles for the edges, and they ended up being such a mess that I tore them all up and used longer strips instead, which worked much better, so I would definitely recommend that approach. Thanks for sharing, I look forward to seeing your part 2!
Thanks Charlie. I did wonder about those ceramic tiles before you started. The thought of sticking them down one at a time filled me with dread. I did think the wash was a really good idea and it looked good. Shame about the tiles. But you live and learn.
Charlie, thank you for a very interesting video. Great carpentry on building the platforms, I thought, wow, this is going well, then those little ceramic tiles. I have looked at them, and thought, that may be worth a go. But you have convinced me otherwise, that is a bit disappointing. Maybe some Evergreen sheeting cut into strips, or Plastruct strips suitably scored will do the job, if you are using the superglue, remember to give the back a sand to get some keying with the glue. Thank you for sharing, I really love the content, cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Very interesting. Curious as to why you put some of the superglue onto the plastic and then ignored it and simply dispensed from the bottle as you needed. So pleased to see the disused track suggestion making into the layout.
Thanks Charlie, Hopefully Woodland Seanics will have a product you can use. I still enjoy your videos. For smoothing Smoothing plaster in the dental laboratory are used a Scotch-Brite sponge. The local Dental laboratory is a good place to get tools and ideas for modelling. Thank you, Charlie
Hi Charlie. I had exactly the same dilemma of how to finish off the platform edging with coping stones. As my platforms are curved, it posed an even greater challenge. As I have access to 3D printing, I decided to model the stone but I also included a small lip on the underside so it gave a face to align with the platform edge thus removing the need to use some kind of stop to align them correctly especially as it was on a curved profile. Once printed, I bonded them to the platform surface made from balsa wood using Gorilla wood glue which allowed time for repositioning. As they are printed in resin, they are quite robust, can be sanded if needed and the acrylic paint adheres very well. Happy to send photos if required.
For my platform top I used gray Elmer's Foam Board, 3/16in (4.8 mm) thick. Smooth gray surface, white foam core. I left the surface smooth but painted the edge a matching shade of gray. It looks like concrete. The base is foam insulation board cut to 9/16 in (14 mm) thick, also painted gray. The top overhangs the base on the platform side by 1/8in (3 mm).
The tiles may not have worked for a layout that evolves or has some maintenance but this was a great education. Your attention to detail with the platform build was great for a total novice like me. Adding those extra strips of Plasticard really makes a difference to the realism. The end result may not have worked on this occasion but I'm sure it's helped a lot of modellers learn something from this. Trying out ideas even if they do not work is still an education as we hopefully learn from our and others mistakes.. Anyway it's another top video Charlie. Many thanks for sharing.
Charlie I made my platform edging from 1 mm thick basswood and burned the individual slabs into it with my diode laser they look great. Great video again
Thanks to the miracle of RUclips, you went through the monotony of installing the tiles so we don't have to, only to find out it was not something we should even attempt. For this, we thank you all! The more important lesson however is the level of detail you strive for, something we can only hope to achieve on our own layouts - real or imagined. Thank you! ~Maarten
Evening Charlie, I am the young gentlemen who you were talking to at the Wells Show on Saturday while I was working on Moors View (the Snowy N gauge one). It was a pleasure to talk to you and it was good to get some questions answered, I hope you enjoyed the show. i think these platforms look excellent. We spent a long time trying to remember the last name of Richard from Everard Junction and discussing Richard Watson move from Hornby to Accurascale. I look forward to future videos.
Hey Charlie, loved the video, thanks for sharing. I bet there was a few choice words said when the tiles snapped… it happens to us all. I used small strips of tiles, will dig out the details and send you tomorrow.
That’s shame how that worked out Charlie, however for the wrong reasons it was still another great video, “those that never err, never learn”!The idea looked good and I am sure in the right place the tiles will look good! Thanks for sharing.
I made my platforms with 3mm MDF cut in 18mm strips to build a frame then topped with 1mm grey card & used brick paper on the MDF. However, on my sea wall edge, I needed big stone block edging curving around the sea wall and for this I 3D printed edging strips with lines cut into the model for the joints between the blocks. This also allowed me to radius the front edge.
Charlie, when cutting the brickwork Plasticard, cut the strips around 20mm roughly, glue them onto your ply base, aligning one edge, with Copydex, then balance platform brick face down and weigh until glue dries. Take a file and draw a file backwards across the oversize brick upstand until flush with platform surface, this takes minutes a 0:17 Plasticard is soft and almost peels away. Glue on Corbelling to top brick courses. Paint Platform. On Platform Edge Glue Wills platform edging. For Copers use Evergreen Sheets of Polystyrene embossed as slabs. between Copers use Very fine Grit, then painted, or Grey Tile grout. Weather surfaces to suit Hope this helps
@@ChadwickModelRailway Copers Charlie are the slabs that line the Platform Edge, usually 3ft x 2ft. These are normally natural stone , though Southern Rail were concrete as the Platform Wall kit you have constructed your walls from were. The Peco kit is based upon the SR practice of using Pre-Cast concrete components tsking the platform to site in kit form. Usually made at Exmouth casting yard. The colour of the Concrete was a buff Sandy colour rather than concrete grey. Beware your O8 shunter catching on the platform edges when setting out the platform. All other stock passes except my two 08’s. Blooming nuisance!!
Charlie, I was wondering early on if you had allowed for the extra buts near the top edge! I only did that once! Great video, as always, and getting platforms that are long and uniformly flat is a real challenge!
Thanks Charlie for saving a great deal of my life. I too had seen Richard's video on this and was contemplating copying him...... I will have five 10 foot platforms to do in my new layout! Plasticard it is! I wonder if you are thinking of copying his tile grout idea.
More tips I've gotten from this video, now need a circular saw or after how I use my jigsaw. Cutting plasticard, I've noticed a metal ruler in The Range that has a handle attached to it. Think it was only a fiver but will double check at the weekend as I'm planning to cut very similar plasticard for my box file layout platform, but I'm doing n-gauge and I'm clumsly, and the first I'll realise I've cut myself, is when I'm stood in a pool of my own blood. Great video as always Charlie.
Dear Charlie Interesting video and well done for the warts and all approach. For my platforms, I am using Peco platform edge sections, screwing them down at the correct distances apart (after decorating and weathering them) and the using card to infill, cutting out wiring routes for platform lighting and then finishing off with modelling clay. The clay finish has the advantage in that it can be smoothed without it looking too smooth. I then paint it complete with a white platform edging. I also add strips of emery paper to simulate bitmac where repairs have taken place. Images available, if you are interested Rob Biggs
I use 2mm MDF for the platform tops, scribe the flagstone edges, then mask and spray accordingly and weather similarly. Costs peanuts, is very durable and looks great. (plus if you want to put any cracks in the surface, very easy to cut them in with a scalpel before spraying) ( I model in O gauge though, so might need something thinner in OO ?)
Although superglue feels like a does-all-jobs kind of solution (it's called 'super' for a reason!) It's actually the last glue I'd use for most modelling jobs. It's such a brittle bond and you have to be so careful when handling it.
When bonding plastikard to plastikard, I'd recommend the kind of glue that comes in airfix kits. I use Revell Contacta. It'll bond better and gives you some time to reposition. Plus it won't glue your fingers together! Rockit card glue from Deluxe Materials actually bonds a wide variety of materials and is very strong too. That's what I'd use for plastic to wood.
Also, scoring plastikard lightly with a blade and 'snapping' it from the main sheet can result in a cleaner and straighter edge.
Great video as ever. Good luck with your next one 😊
Thanks PG, for some sensible and sound advice. Regards, Charlie.
I've mentioned it before, but the way you include the "failures" is a massive reassurance to those of us who like to get a bit over dramatic when something doesn't work. Keep up the good work Charlie.
That’s most kind. Leaving in the mistakes is crucial to the learning process. Regards, Charlie.
Just love your honesty and advice on not what to do. You are proving a great service to modellers.
Thanks Pierre, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Thank you Charlie. Thank you most of all for not being perfect. As someone once told me. 'Try very hard to learn from the mistakes of others. You haven't got time to make them all yourself'.
Bless you
Steve.
Thanks, Steve , that was very kind of you to say so, mate. Regards, Charlie.
And also: " the man who never made a mistake, never made anything."
Nothing's wasted Charlie, you got a lesson out of it and we got an entertaining lesson.
Thanks, Nigel, every day is a school day! Regards Charlie
This is exactly why I love your channel Charlie, not only do you show your successes but you are not shy to show the failures as well, so we can all learn ... thank you, cheers, Garry from DownUnder
Thanks Garry, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Loved the sound of the DMUs traversing the board joints!
Thanks Peter, it does add to the realism. Regards Charlie
I have been so inspired by watching your videos that after 50 years of dreaming of building a model railway I have finally taken the first steps. I did dabble in a garden line in the early 1990s but that was short lived. I'm 60 now and semi retired, so no excuses to getting it started.
Good luck :)
I’m so pleased that you have found some inspiration in my channel W2271. Regards, Charlie.
You lured me in there. I was thinking that your new platform was looking so much better than my Peco stuff and perhaps I should start again?
Then, I thought those ceramic tile were a bit pricey but if Everard and Chadwick have got them……
….and then reality struck!
Thanks as ever for your honest thoughts, some new ideas but also some reassurance that mine aren’t too bad.
Thank you very much for these videos. I’m 47 and just got back into trains after about a third of a century (now N gauge). They are extremely informative. Unlike some of the more melodramatic ones there is no superfluous flummery. I really enjoy these extremely well enunciated and clear tutorials
Thanks Ian , it’s comments such as yours and make the whole thing worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.
I think the tiles are interesting and the fact they are easy broken lends itself to interesting weathering potentials especially if your making disused and abandoned tracks, you could always glue the tiles to a strip of plasticard for additional support underneath when used for platform edging and that way everything would be neat an straight.
Yes, TS, hopefully they’ll come in useful for a abandoned platform. Regards, Charlie.
I was today years old when I found out that the PECO track gauge was also a platform gauge.
Never forget, that every day is a school day, Mike. Regards, Charlie.
Me too!
Charlie for my latest platform rebuild I used the peco walls/edging which have built in copers. Please note the hornby platform gauge provides too larger gap to the platform edge which results in an over large gap between the following stock and the platform edge I 3D printed my own spacers with the correct edge distance
24 for me
Same! 😆
Fantastic content there Charlie! Another ‘live and learn’ lesson for us. Thanks for trialing the tiles for us all…….looking forward to seeing the next video with your preferred solution for the platforms.
I’m pleased that you found it interesting, Adrian, regardless of the final outcome. Regards Charlie.
I watch alot of model railway channels I just find them fascinating. As of yesterday Everard junction was my favourite until I stumbled across your channel now I'm binge watching your series..
That’s most kind, and it’s great to have you on board. Regards, Charlie.
Nice to see you working on the branch line station again
And lots more to come too Gary. Regards, Charlie.
If you have a Silhouette or Cricut cutting machine, you can get it to scribe a piece of A4 1mm plasticard with your slabs. Paint them with an airbrush, snap them all up into individual bits and you can lay them like these ceramic tiles but without the brittleness. The colour variation from the airbrush also gives a very nice subtle variation from slab to slab. I just paved three whole platform tops this way and yes, it took ages, but it looks really good and basically only cost the price of 2 or 3 sheets of plastic. You can glue them down with PVA or copydex and fill any small gaps with grout.
Great advice JG. Sadly I don’t own such machines. However, I’ll do it the hard way. Regards, Charlie.
After a vacation day filled with bricklaying - wich I hate and am really not good at, but I am too cheap to hire a bricklayer - a new video from Chadwick is just what the doctor prescribed to relax 😊👍.
I do so hope you find it interesting, Theo, after a busy week. Regards Charlie.
It sure is. And entertaining. Don’t be sad because the tiles didn’t work for You. Richard does car bodywork repair for a living (so do I). We are used to fiddle in the 10th of a millimeter range and are a bunch of strange freaks. That’s why we a capable of laying these things straight. Tbh, I would go the plasticard route either.
So many comments and suggestions all go to demonstrate the interest and appreciation for what you do. Not in any way a disaster, just a slightly steeper learning curve ..... an inspiration to a lot, if not most, of us. Thank you.
Thanks Steve, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, I absolutely love your videos! So glad you show the failures
, as well as success
Thanks Vernon, that’s really kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Absolutely brilliant video, and this is why I'm a patreon. I LOVE people who
1. credit and shout out to those who influence and inspire them. It shows class and respect.
2. show their mistakes. This is something that encourages and supports everyone to just keep on keeping on.
Thanks Charlie, as always :)
Thanks BC, that’s exceptionally kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie.
Really interesting and useful references Charlie thanks. Im just working on some platforms at the moment so this really helped. Tom
Hopefully Tom next weeks video should be even better. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie that brick work you are displaying is called English bond that is alternative courses of headers and stretchers, when i was an apprentice brick layer many years ago. Well Charlie your video couldn't have come at a better time as i am at the same stage as you so to speak. I said a while ago to you that you show all, warts an all when you make your videos { that is mistakes } and don't shy away from showing them, and how to put them right great stuff . That was a great tip regarding the distance between the platform wall and the edge of the sleeper ,LOVELY as you say. Thank you Charlie once again for showing me/us how to do it and not to do it. cant wait for the the next video.
Thanks Tony, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Great video Charlie. I really enjoy watching your layout develop and feel reassured it isn't just me who makes mistakes. Many thanks
Rest assured David, you’re not on your own. In 1 hours time part two will be out! Regards Charlie.
Love your videos and frank assessment of results. This really helps novices like myself. (Doing my apprenticeship in my 70’s is interesting 😂).
I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel, Fred. Regards, Charlie.
Love it! I.ve made more errors than trials. Your honesty keeps it real. Good luck with the next attempt.
Thanks BS, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie, mistakes are all part of the learning process, we all make them… thanks for sharing yours! Cheers from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks Greg, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
I admire your patience and honesty about when it’s time to call it a day and think of another idea. Unfortunately I’m one of those Metcalf platform kit persons with some modern platform edge stickers which have the tactile edge and yellow lines which are available on a well known model site. Thanks for making these videos, every one of them will be of help to many modellers, Andy.
Thanks Andy, I admit that my platforms from Times gone by are somewhat simpler to assemble. Regards, Charlie.
If you learn something new each day, it's a day well spent. Loved the content on this video, Charlie 👍
ThanksJeff, that’s most kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Very refreshing to see something „not“ being recommended … 👍
Lovely honest review
Thanks Doug, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Full respect for showing things that didn't work (for whatever reason). I am sure that helps modellers everywhere. Good to see the station being developed.
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
brilliant video Charlie
Gosh mells you have been busy. Regards, Charlie.
Your videos are extremely useful and refreshingly honest Charlie. It’s good to have someone show things that don’t work, and why, as much as it is to see when things do work. It’s also reassuring that those of us that do struggle aren’t completely useless after all! Everyone has problems with their layout. Looking forward to round 2!
Thanks mate, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Brilliant video Charlie. I could feel your frustration at the end. I also love that you include mistakes and problems in your videos. The one where you mention that you tubers spend ages getting their running sessions perfect and that in reality they get derailments and stalling etc saved me from giving up on my model railway.
Many thanks again
I couldn’t agree more David, the honesty on RUclips is far from perfect. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, like you said I use scribed plastic card for the slabs and fine wet and dry for the tarmac. I use a cheap guillotine to cut the strips. Loved watching you do this as it was really informative 👍
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie
Yes i did enjoyed it a lot i just looking at building my platfroms so you was helpful
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Great video Charlie. I would not consider this wasted time or effort but a valuable lesson for us all. Thanks again for all that you do 🚂👍
Thanks, Lindsey, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
Another fantastic video update. Kind regards and have a great weekend
Thanks, Mark, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
We live and learn. Thanks for showing the pitfalls which is just as valuable as when it all turns out fine first time.
Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards, Charlie
Once again and as usual, merci beaucoup, Charlie, for taking the time to make those videos where we can learn a lof of you and eventually with you! 😀
Cheers.
Thanks Claude, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Appreciate the honesty. Great video.
Thanks Rob, it was such a joy! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie it's a bind when after taking hours marking out platform edges and gluing down loads of tiles and it goes all to pot.. I had the same experience and in the end opted for metcalfe paving slabs.. they are great. Self adhesive no messy superglue etc.
Thanks, David, we will have our little challenges.
Regards, Charlie
Thank you Charlie for another informative and enjoyable video. I must admit fiddling with all those tiny tiles would drive me mad. I used a process shown in Hornby Magazine using plywood and hardboard to provide the overhang. I sprayed the top surface with grey paint and added plasticard to the edging and painted. I used a Humbrol filler to then sort out any lines where I joined the sections of card together. I think it turned out quite well in the end. Good luck with round 2 for your platforms.
Many thanks for sharing my disappointment Simon. Better luck next time. Regards Charlie.
Thank you Charlie that was another excellent video.
A learning curve of some degree, but hey "c'est la vie".
We've all been there!
Because of the way you approach your videos, is why the reason they are so liked.
Looking forward to part 2
Take care, mate!👍
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
That is so interesting, just in the process of designing a new track layout and this is going to be really helpful. Thanks for sharing, Great Video. Linda ~ Loweville Junction Railroad 🚂
Thanks Linda, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Another great video.
Hopefully you can save the brickwork, then all is not lost. Either way, it made a very entertaining video.
Back to the drawing board, Neil, regards Charlie
Thanks for trying the tiles for us all. I won't be using them either. I'm clumsy so they work for me.
Thanks Kieth, I’m so pleased you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
Another great video Charlie which has generated a lot of interesting comments and information from others. Thanks for sharing your pain with us. It really is useful. Roy.
Thanks Roy, that’s really kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Awesome update Charlie. Thank you for taking the time for this video.
Thanks Bob, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks for the honest review. Another great video.
Thanks, Kris, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie another very good informative video
Thanks Dave, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
as always charlie informative and entertaining
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.
Excellent video, Charlie, and an interesting feature on the platform construction. Previously in 'OO" I have used MDF cut to the width of the finished platform (including overhang), turned it upside down and used a router to remove the amount necessary in several passes in order to obtain the depth of overhang and thickness of the coping slab necessary. I have recently been faffing around with laser-cut platform kits for my 'N' gauge build and have lost the will to live (far too much warpage on these very thin kits for N) and will revert to the same technique as for the OO. Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for your support H 66, better luck next time perhaps. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie I dont always comment but have been watching you for quite a few years, Just getting back into it after health issue and being unable to do much for the last 2 years . Thank you for this episode While i am N scale , You have just answered my question on building a station , I always enjoy your channel Thank you for the inspiration Regards Greg
Thanks Greg, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
I am glad you shared this about the platform edge. I am a little clumsiest people around. I am sure I would break these tiles so I will go for scribed plasticard. Much safer idea for me. Great video, again Charlie. Well done.
Thanks Duncan, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, another fantastic video as always, I am very new to the hobby and find your channel very informative….. those tiles look like they are made from French chalk
I’m unsure Matthew, they are certainly some kind of ceramic. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, great update pity about the platform edging but I have every faith in your craftsmanship that you will come back with something even better
Many thanks for your trust, M6500. Regards, Charlie.
That’s a great money saving video!
Thanks for the tips there Charlie. I’ve plenty of platform length to build myself, so a lot of useful pointers to take note of. My only problem is that one of the platforms is going to be on a curve, so am going to have to take edge clearances into account. I suppose the same if you’re approaching from a curve, also making allowances for clearance when using an end of platform head shunt.
Very much food for thought! Looking forward to part two to this one.
Excellent presentation again, much appreciated. dB.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, a learning experience that has saved quite a few of us, wasted hours of toil. I have used various methods over the years but can’t really beat scribed plasticard for platforms.
Yes, I think you’re backing a winner there. Regards, Charlie.
I'm sure it's mentioned elsewhere, but I used laser cut "steam era" platform edging. They come in strips which makes them very easy to lay. As always a great video and it's comforting to know that advanced modellers don't always get it right.
Thanks DSJ, I’ll be using those next week. Regards Charlie
Many thanks for publishing these findings Charlie, you've saved us a lot of strife. I'm considering using painted plasticard tiles instead. More work initially but it'll be more durable in the long run.
That’s my next method to Alec, regards Charlie
Hi again Charlie
Your patience is amazing.
Always interesting and educational.
It's always good to know what not to do as well.
Many thanks.
I think it's a Peco platform for me!
Stay safe.
Howard
Thanks Howard, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
Very informative as always Charlie. As for covering the sides of the platforms you advised against using brick papers, as the paper discolours when it comes into contact with wet PVA used to fix the ballast. This is true if you don't spay Matt varnish onto the brick paper first. If sprayed with varnish then the paper won't discolour. I have numerous Scalescenes structures on my layout which are all brick paper covered and have ballasted up and around them without issue. Cheers Euan
Thank you, Ewan, for a very interesting tip. Regards, Charlie.
A very salutary lesson, thank you! The set of platforms I’m about to build has to have a rounded end to match the track geometry. I’ll be keen to see what techniques other commentators might use for constructing such unique platform shapes.
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. I too, have curved ones to tackle in time. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video. I've been going through this process myself at the moment! The technique I've been using is the paper method for the brick effect and sealing it with a quality matt varnish to prevent the water from the ballasting process softening the paper it also protects from UV damage, I've then covered a strip of 2mm square balsa in brick capping paper and glueing this to the top of the platform edge, this sets the distance of the platform and carriage. The top of the platform is a strip of 3mm MDF cut to the shape and width of the platform this is then sanded with 180 grit paper, lightly wiped to remove any dust and painted in a suitably pleasing colour, this gives a nice asphalt appearance without mucking around with expense liquid systems. I've then routed a shallow step in the top edge (using a rabbet router) to fit Plasticard tile effect this could be substituted for the ceramic tiles in your video and would probably give a better fitment, the routed edge makes the tiles flush with asphalt surface. once I've completed this I'll post some pics to your FB page and Hornby modelling for beginner's page when I get chance. keep up the good work, god knows we need something to watch as the tv is completely banjaxed these days! all the best, if you read this far well done, and all the best from Steve in Australia
Thanks, Steve , I’m very interested to see the results. Regards, Charlie.
Oops, oh dear, at least you spotted it early enough , superb video
Thanks, Colin, we live and learn. Regards, Charlie.
Brilliant stuff from Nigel, I plan my layouts using SCARM so now I can design my platforms on the printout to ensure the correct placing for straight platform sections. Curved sections sadly require some testing using the old pencil on the longest coach method.
An excellent comment Andrew, I’m already dreading my curved platforms. Regards, Charlie.
I used Peco platform edging strip. Others may or may not like the idea. Another great 'how to', Charlie. Keep them coming.
Thanks SV, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
love the MOD ear defs Charlie
Bought at a car boot sale!
Always enjoyable Charlie
Thanks four oaks, regards Charlie
Awesome Video Charlie
Thanks Christopher, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
I admire your dedication to accuracy and getting the scale just right - I;m still at the "that looks roughly right so it will do" stage. I have to say that yours looks by far the better!
Thanks JB, I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie. I’m glad that I’m not the only one to seriously mess up. As it happens I’m in the process of building my own platforms. I’ve done it several times over the years but this time I’m trying to build curved platforms and it’s proving a nightmare. Getting the clearances right is driving me crazy. But a few tips that might help you. I use Mek Pak from Slaters as this glue can be brushed on and is really easy to use benefitting from capillary adhesion. I also paint my plasticard sheets before cutting up using little pillars to hide joins and staggering the thin topping strips to help hiding the sectional look. I look forward to part two.
Regards Carl
Thanks, Carl, and thanks for sharing your pain. Regards, Charlie.
Do you have to glue them down with an overhang? I have a mix of platform types. The Hornby ones have a painted edge and are flush with the platform's edge. The other type I have used is the Metcalfe kits and they have a sticky edging strip which sticks on the edge with no overhang. The overhang is built by the walls under the platform. You could use a router to remove some of the wood, leaving you with a platform edge to stick the tiles along, they will not be chipped or broken by a shunter with the outside frame drive. I hope this makes sense. Martin. (Thailand) Yorkdale LNER Reservation Railway.
Thanks, Martin, yes it is essential to have a realistic overhang. Regards, Charlie.
It's always perversely reassuring to see that other modellers encounter such disasters. You are never alone. One of the many reasons that I have for basing my model railway on the old Highland Railway is that I didn't have to worry about overhanging platform edges.😀
Thanks Jon, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards, Charlie
PJM Models make some lovely platform kits worth considering, if you haven't seen them already. Another absorbing video Charlie, keep em coming.
Thanks CC, they’re obviously worth worth a look then. Regards, Charlie.
Not the cheapest but very tempting if you're looking for a permanent , robust and authentic looking platform. All the best, Clive.
Hi Charlie, I went the cheap and cheerful route and used Metcalfe cardboard kit as there is only me to see it Another great video , better luck next Charlie with your platform edge.
Thanks Michael, I already have another plan! Regards Charlie
It's frustrating when it doesn't work out, but well done for having a go. I had a very similar experience on Frontington, where I used tiny individual tiles for the edges, and they ended up being such a mess that I tore them all up and used longer strips instead, which worked much better, so I would definitely recommend that approach. Thanks for sharing, I look forward to seeing your part 2!
Thanks Matthew, every day is a school day for us all. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie. I did wonder about those ceramic tiles before you started. The thought of sticking them down one at a time filled me with dread. I did think the wash was a really good idea and it looked good. Shame about the tiles. But you live and learn.
Thanks Don, but it’s back to the drawing board on this one. Regards, Charlie.
Great update Charlie for my platforms I used Peco edging and filled the space with plasticard, I think someone else mentioned this method.
Thanks Arthur, I just wanted to try something different. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, thank you for a very interesting video. Great carpentry on building the platforms, I thought, wow, this is going well, then those little ceramic tiles.
I have looked at them, and thought, that may be worth a go. But you have convinced me otherwise, that is a bit disappointing.
Maybe some Evergreen sheeting cut into strips, or Plastruct strips suitably scored will do the job, if you are using the superglue, remember to give the back a sand to get some keying with the glue.
Thank you for sharing, I really love the content, cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks Michael, you’re right, a plas-card approach will be a better outcome. Regards Charlie
Very interesting. Curious as to why you put some of the superglue onto the plastic and then ignored it and simply dispensed from the bottle as you needed. So pleased to see the disused track suggestion making into the layout.
Thanks Lee, not quite the outcome that I had hoped for. Great suggestion for the redundant track. Regards Charlie.
Thanks Charlie, Hopefully Woodland Seanics will have a product you can use. I still enjoy your videos. For smoothing Smoothing plaster in the dental laboratory are used a Scotch-Brite sponge. The local Dental laboratory is a good place to get tools and ideas for modelling.
Thank you, Charlie
Thanks Dom, much appreciated.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I had exactly the same dilemma of how to finish off the platform edging with coping stones. As my platforms are curved, it posed an even greater challenge. As I have access to 3D printing, I decided to model the stone but I also included a small lip on the underside so it gave a face to align with the platform edge thus removing the need to use some kind of stop to align them correctly especially as it was on a curved profile. Once printed, I bonded them to the platform surface made from balsa wood using Gorilla wood glue which allowed time for repositioning. As they are printed in resin, they are quite robust, can be sanded if needed and the acrylic paint adheres very well. Happy to send photos if required.
Thanks for sharing your method PC, my curved platforms will probably be next year. Regards, Charlie.
No advice for you Charlie. But thanks for your honesty!
Thanks Dave, that method just wasn’t to be. Regards Charlie.
For my platform top I used gray Elmer's Foam Board, 3/16in (4.8 mm) thick. Smooth gray surface, white foam core. I left the surface smooth but painted the edge a matching shade of gray. It looks like concrete. The base is foam insulation board cut to 9/16 in (14 mm) thick, also painted gray. The top overhangs the base on the platform side by 1/8in (3 mm).
Thanks, Paul , for sharing your preference. Regards, Charlie.
The tiles may not have worked for a layout that evolves or has some maintenance but this was a great education. Your attention to detail with the platform build was great for a total novice like me. Adding those extra strips of Plasticard really makes a difference to the realism. The end result may not have worked on this occasion but I'm sure it's helped a lot of modellers learn something from this. Trying out ideas even if they do not work is still an education as we hopefully learn from our and others mistakes.. Anyway it's another top video Charlie. Many thanks for sharing.
Thanks,Anthony, your support is much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie I made my platform edging from 1 mm thick basswood and burned the individual slabs into it with my diode laser they look great. Great video again
Thanks Bob, I shall have to look into a diode laser. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I do a lot of laser and 3D work and have nearly everything on my layout made from one on or the other
Thanks to the miracle of RUclips, you went through the monotony of installing the tiles so we don't have to, only to find out it was not something we should even attempt. For this, we thank you all! The more important lesson however is the level of detail you strive for, something we can only hope to achieve on our own layouts - real or imagined. Thank you!
~Maarten
Many thanks Maarten, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Evening Charlie, I am the young gentlemen who you were talking to at the Wells Show on Saturday while I was working on Moors View (the Snowy N gauge one).
It was a pleasure to talk to you and it was good to get some questions answered, I hope you enjoyed the show. i think these platforms look excellent.
We spent a long time trying to remember the last name of Richard from Everard Junction and discussing Richard Watson move from Hornby to Accurascale.
I look forward to future videos.
Yes, Charlie, it was great to have a decent chat. Good luck with your projects, and stay safe. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway And you, thank you!
Hey Charlie, loved the video, thanks for sharing. I bet there was a few choice words said when the tiles snapped… it happens to us all. I used small strips of tiles, will dig out the details and send you tomorrow.
Thanks, Ross, yes the language was dreadful! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Have you had a look at the Wills kit pavers for platforms? I will send you a pic via email.
@@Ross-FNL, received and replied Ross.
That’s shame how that worked out Charlie, however for the wrong reasons it was still another great video, “those that never err, never learn”!The idea looked good and I am sure in the right place the tiles will look good! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Kevin, but I’m sure those tiles will come in handy elsewhere. Regards, Charlie.
I made my platforms with 3mm MDF cut in 18mm strips to build a frame then topped with 1mm grey card & used brick paper on the MDF. However, on my sea wall edge, I needed big stone block edging curving around the sea wall and for this I 3D printed edging strips with lines cut into the model for the joints between the blocks. This also allowed me to radius the front edge.
An interesting method Asis.
Regards Charlie
Charlie, when cutting the brickwork Plasticard, cut the strips around 20mm roughly, glue them onto your ply base, aligning one edge, with Copydex, then balance platform brick face down and weigh until glue dries.
Take a file and draw a file backwards across the oversize brick upstand until flush with platform surface, this takes minutes a 0:17 Plasticard is soft and almost peels away. Glue on Corbelling to top brick courses.
Paint Platform. On Platform Edge Glue Wills platform edging. For Copers use Evergreen Sheets of Polystyrene embossed as slabs. between Copers use Very fine Grit, then painted, or Grey Tile grout. Weather surfaces to suit Hope this helps
Yes, it does Help whole digger, however what are copers. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Copers Charlie are the slabs that line the Platform Edge, usually 3ft x 2ft. These are normally natural stone , though Southern Rail were concrete as the Platform Wall kit you have constructed your walls from were. The Peco kit is based upon the SR practice of using Pre-Cast concrete components tsking the platform to site in kit form. Usually made at Exmouth casting yard. The colour of the Concrete was a buff Sandy colour rather than concrete grey. Beware your O8 shunter catching on the platform edges when setting out the platform. All other stock passes except my two 08’s. Blooming nuisance!!
Charlie, I was wondering early on if you had allowed for the extra buts near the top edge! I only did that once! Great video, as always, and getting platforms that are long and uniformly flat is a real challenge!
Thanks for your support, Kingsview, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie for saving a great deal of my life. I too had seen Richard's video on this and was contemplating copying him...... I will have five 10 foot platforms to do in my new layout! Plasticard it is! I wonder if you are thinking of copying his tile grout idea.
I have a plan, but you’ll have to hang on until next week! Regards Charlie
More tips I've gotten from this video, now need a circular saw or after how I use my jigsaw.
Cutting plasticard, I've noticed a metal ruler in The Range that has a handle attached to it. Think it was only a fiver but will double check at the weekend as I'm planning to cut very similar plasticard for my box file layout platform, but I'm doing n-gauge and I'm clumsly, and the first I'll realise I've cut myself, is when I'm stood in a pool of my own blood.
Great video as always Charlie.
You could trim the tiles down, or "damage" them.
Thanks O74, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Sarah btw
I'm sure you will find use for those broken tiles somewhere on the layout Charlie. Enjoyed the video, thank you.
Thanks Steve, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Dear Charlie
Interesting video and well done for the warts and all approach.
For my platforms, I am using Peco platform edge sections, screwing them down at the correct distances apart (after decorating and weathering them) and the using card to infill, cutting out wiring routes for platform lighting and then finishing off with modelling clay. The clay finish has the advantage in that it can be smoothed without it looking too smooth. I then paint it complete with a white platform edging. I also add strips of emery paper to simulate bitmac where repairs have taken place.
Images available, if you are interested
Rob Biggs
Thanks Robert, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, I have used Metcalfe card paving stones to edge my platform. After blowing a coat of matte lacquer, they work quite well 😊
Many thanks for your advice, William, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
I use 2mm MDF for the platform tops, scribe the flagstone edges, then mask and spray accordingly and weather similarly. Costs peanuts, is very durable and looks great. (plus if you want to put any cracks in the surface, very easy to cut them in with a scalpel before spraying)
( I model in O gauge though, so might need something thinner in OO ?)
My procedure in OO, will be very similar to yours in O. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, I am afraid i copped out when it came to platforms and went down the Superquick route. Now there's a blast from the past.
It’s very much horses for courses, Kelvin. Regards, Charlie.