All credit to you. Life is about trial and error. I think everyone of subscribers are enjoying the journey. I don’t even have a layout but I live vicariously through what you do , it’s still fun. My retirement plan is to build a layout so I am compiling a list of what I would like to do. I love the fact that you have trod the path , `i know I will still have issues but its fun watching what you. All the best Alex
I really like the fact Charlie includes his mistake on his builds. Makes more gung ho on the build I am doing, and less concerned with making a mistake! I started a large layout in my basement after I retired. It is an awesome thing to keep me engaged and busy in retirement. Love this channel!
I do love your honesty, Charlie. Seriously, though, we all appreciate you showing your mistakes and saving us the pain and horror. I thank you, Sir! Much better result on the second attempt. Simon
@@StevenTT120Layout we are just making our first TT:120 kit, a 3 road diesel depot. You never know, a TT:120 platform kit could be something that may show at some point.
Absolutely thrilled to hear some of the results of my own experiments helped you, Charlie. Thanks for the mention! I think these have turned out great so far. Looking forward to seeing it all progress.
I am enjoying your efforts to make platforms and it’s great that you’ve left in all the mistakes you’ve made so we don’t have to. I can’t be the only person whose layout does not allow long straight platforms, so it would be great if any new product made provision in some way for curved platforms. Keep up the great work. Charles
Hi Charlie, found your channel after coming back to the hobby a few months ago. I have now watched every video (its took a while), and felt the need to say thanks for all the content. I enjoy the way you present and you have some great knowledge. Normally watch on a tv so dont comment, but as im now caught up, sat on the laptop so i could say, great work, i look forward to seeing more of your hints and tips, and watching the layout develop. Paul.
Charlie, great "Take 2" on your platforms. Great techniques used there, putting a "skin" of Polystrene on the platform edge, and then using Polystrene glue is a great idea, and would work kell. I think Superglue has its place, but is a glue of last resort, as it need a Mechanical bond to hold, whereas the Polustrne cement is a chemical bond, so it will last forever. The platform tiles look great, and is a great idea, making a "one sheet" may be difficult for different widths of platform, but hey, all issues can be overcome, no problems, just solutions and opportunities. Your station area is progressing well,a nd I am loving the progress. Cheers, and thank you for sharing, and stay safe, Michael
That was absolutely amazing Charlie. Something so simple as platform construction and yet I was spellbound by the whole operation. Certainly will bear it all in mind when I construct my N Gauge platforms.
Looks great, Charlie! It was sad to see the results of the last one, but hopefully you agree that the lessons learned helped this one come along well! I think you will be proud of it for a long time.
Like other a have mentioned I love your honesty. It is heartwarming to know that I am not alone in making mistakes. Mind you I make so many mistakes I have lost count. Thanks again Charlie. Always enjoy watching your videos
Awsome, Mr B. Just awesome. I'm nearing the start of my retirement project to upgrade my layout, and so much of what I will do will be down to watching and implementing what I'm learning from your videos.
Hi Charlie, it's good to see that I'm not the only one to not use the full stroke of the saw! Enjoying the videos, even if I model a different era, a lot of your techniques are lessons learnt. Lawrence
Some great ideas there Charlie. When I am doing a project "that matters" I use 18 mm ply (For 00) and use metcalffe platform for dressing. As all things tend to be over-sized I use N gauge for the main platform walking surface and the you can dress the facing and edges according to the period being replicated. The card brings the platform up to about 19mm. I also use my router to create a quarter inch wide channel on the under side of the platform for incorporating wiring for lights (Platform or platform buildings). That may seem odd but it then simply requires a drilling of a whole through to the channel and job done (A bit like a bus wire) To get a varied effect on any structure weathering I vary the distance between the paint source (Air brush or rattle can) and the object. Another great and honest video! Stay safe mate , Regards, Roger
Another cracking construction video Charlie. The lengths that you go to for that genuine look have to be applauded and even more showing us the good bits as well as the not so good parts. I raise my hat to you sir. My older brain may not be so absorbent to knowledge as it used to be for new knowledge but you explain things in a way that even I can take in, this is very much appreciated. Thanks again.
I do admire your truth and honesty in every video Charlie. Looking forward to seeing what pre made platforms are developed definitely a market for them.
Charlie, Thank you for the video. As always they are very informative and educational. I am building my first layout and have found lots of useful information in your videos. I only recently learned of your military career. Although I live in the US, Thank You for your service to your country. My father served 30 years in the USAF. I wasn't military but served 30 years in Law Enforcement. Again, thank you. Charlie in Nebraska
Great work as usual, Charlie and great tips. If the company looking in to the tile sheets manages to crack the problem, perhaps they might then be able to then offer bespoke sheets to suit different platform shapes (obviously at a cost), eg where lines converge/diverge and there's a station with a triangular central island platform - Kidsgrove (fairly local to me) is a typical example of what I mean?
Another great how to vid mate. When you mention all the tiling, all I could think of was, not another 3 days! But, you overcame that chore rather quickly. Arthur
The slabs did look really good put on individually like that but clearly it is hugely time consuming. Pre-made lengths would clearly be more practical for long platforms such as this but you probably do need some loose slabs as well for those areas where long straight sheets aren't so suitable. The slope actually looked fine the way you did it because in real life the people laying the paving suffer from the same problem and come up with the same solution of cutting slabs down to fit. What I would say is that although the drain channel grating looks great it probably needs to be broken up here and there with a slightly larger square representing the main drain point for the channel to run in to. Another tip (which you may well have done but didn't mention) is to remove your masking tape as soon as possible before the paint dries. If you wait until it is dry you run the risk of pulling up paint from your surface when you remove the tape as the paint has formed a layer across the join.
A great step forward in platform construction, this is how this hobby moves forward. Having a great opportunity to work with a production team for something that can be utilised by many. Having a single piece of top surface with all the feature built in, only have to cut and glue then paint away.. platform design as per Charlie from Chadwick. A Great Leap Forward from the last experiment. Wishing all the best for the next platform and the station. All best Marc from Leighton Buzzard. Take care when cutting this new platform when comes to the join at the platform slope….
Thank you for your walts and all, easy-to-follow and step-by-step process of platform construction. Watching the process from the beginning is fascinating, seeing the final product, and reflection in action, from the learning curve during the process. Your hanging baskets also look very nice.
Thanks Charlie for such an interesting series on platforms. I’ll shortly be at the same stage on my layout and am still puzzling the best way to construct the platforms. Your various experiments are a great help. I can’t help thinking that pre formed platform strips that you mentioned at the end might be the best way forward. John
Thanks for all this Charlie, platform’s are so important and I’m rebuilding my own just the same. We really could have a mix of paving and tarmac if we we’re bold enough! Next problem for me is “high speed trains” yellow lines. I need to lay off the beer to do this! 😆
That was quite a bit of work and you can't always tell how they are going to turn out. Your work showed the way to an improved method. The new one piece surface idea sounds very good. 😊👍
Another brilliantly honest video Charlie, thank you. I've used Metcalfe pavement slabs on my layout as they remind of the pavements around where I grew up and seem to do the job. Look forward to your next episode of platform building. All the best👍
Hi Charlie, that was such a task, I admire your perseverance especially with all those tiles and the drainage channel. The final result was excellent in particular the corbelling. If as a result of this a preprepared sheet can be made then this would be an excellent result for you and the Chadwick community. All the best!!
Great job on the second round of platform construction! Must have been satisfying during the second build to to see it go so well, especially after the first attempt where you just weren't feeling much love for the project!
Charlie that looks great! Probably one of the nicest platforms I've seen. Really like the drainage grates. Have you had the opportunity to see a channel named Chandwell? This gentleman scratch builds the most realist buildings in N-scale using a computer program called Inkscape. They are stunning and worth a look.
Im on layout rebuild NO4, and I use white self adhesive cable trunking for my platforms… it’s the perfect height, and two together makes the perfect width! Easy to cut to size, and scenic over and cover with self adhesive paper with a printed effects. Can also run all the layout cabling through so it hidden from view and don’t need to go under baseboards etc!
I’d absolutely love to build a platform the same way, I’ve found that for what I’m building the pre-made ones tend to end a bit long or short and don’t have as much realism to them, they tend to just have flat sides. I’d definitely invest in a platform kit just like what you’ve done there with the paving stones.
Excellent job as always Charlie! Thank you for sharing your techniques and allowing us to learn from your mistakes also, this video has really given me food for thought as I am about to start making my own platforms (well try at least!)
I think you have hit the mark balancing introducing a technique, demonstrating how to apply it and talking about the results. Great work! In the US I have seen "concrete stamp patterns" to make poured concrete look like pavers. I wonder if something like that could be 3D-printed instead of hand-laying hundreds of scale yards of individual paving stones. Your platform looks both amazing and highly representative of the location's photographs.
Brilliant video, and having a single sheet of tiles be far better and easier than single ones , and talking of platforms ! 😂Did enough walking up and down those in my BR days as a railman ,closing the doors on the ' slam door' stock , always some one who would leave the door open or on the catch, right at the top of a 12 Cig/Vep emu or the loco hauled inter - regionals 😂, remember those ? Seems like yesterday and another lost piece of history.and one day I was finishing My shift and just seeing the Brighton to Manchester out ,when the driver of the class 47 learned out the cab and asked if I wanted to join him ,so as I was finished for the day I hopped on board and rode with him to reading, and what a cab ride that was ,nearly a ton between Acton and Reading, them were the days when you could get cab rides😊
Small tip Charlie. Use a bachmann 08 for gauging up to the platform. Because the coupling rods can hit the platform edges and you end up with a twisted crank. I dont think I need to tell you how i know
@@ChadwickModelRailwayOccasionally that handy saw handle square - isn't!!! A newish Stanley saw, made in France, after cursing it in broken french, I marked up it's yellow handle.
The new platform looks fantastic, great job! For installing of the brickwork there would be a little trick to make things easier: Clamp another piece of wood on the topside of the platform. This way you can just push the bricks against the wood an get a perfect edge.
Excellent video Charlie, thank you for the insight to the platform build, I really look forward to your two weekly YTV. Interesting learnings for all to consider. Much appreciated and keep up the content, we all appreciate it,
Looks great Charlie. I use a thin enamel wash using a sand colour as the base for my pointing. May be worth a try for a future project. Kind regards Martin
Hi Charlie. Love your channel and i'm learning so much. Just want to say if you ever have problems with the revel contacta glue nozzle, just wave a lighter over the end very quickly and it will melt the hardened glue. Little puff of smoke and your good to go. Kind regards Ian
Doing a nice job charlie. Steve is a top chap eh. For Tarmac, Rustoleum ‘Aged Iron’ textured paint, then sand it back a bit works great. All the best, Eric
Looking great. I use Buff Titanium by Daler & Rowney for Mortar, sometimes mixed into a little smooth polyfilla. A trick with the Revell glue, if the nozzle dries / blocks up then squeeze the bottle gently whilst holding a flame under the metal tip. When you get a little flamethrower, job done!
Hi Charlie, thanks for the idea of clamping down ruler etc to cut straight line, its one of those things that is always said "why didn't I think of that earlier". Regards Mark
I do CAD and laser cutting at work. Having a single engraved sheet is a vastly better idea not just because it's easier to install by the modeller but for the company it'll be quicker to engrave the detail on one section of medite and then cut around the outside edge, as opposed to cutting each of those tiles. Less wear and tear on the laser!
Great video again .If you dont succeed the first time try try again . An alternative method of the brick mortar is to use very thinned down paint .Enamels work best . Just point a small brush head laden with the paint and the capillary action will do the rest filling in between the bricks.
Charlie . Looking so much better .Life's to short to sit and apply hundreds of individual laser cut stone slabs . The idea of designing and producing a full platform is so much better . Its our local show this weekend in Inverness so will mention your channel to get the numbers up .
Charlie nice looking platform especially like the central drainage channel something not often modelled, perhaps the new sheet could include the drainage channel and paving only with a wider width so it could be cut to size to allow the edge coppers to fit so it could be used to accommodate various width platforms. When sticking plastic sheet to timber I now use UHU POR adhesive which is designed for Polystyrene. I use the Revell Contacta a lot it is good glue but the tube does tend to block to clear the tube it can be pulled and heated in a flame which will burn out the hardened glue and the tube replaced when cool only takes a moment to do. Halfords primer is an excellent product
Halfords have now changed their primers and the new grey primer is so much lighter and thinner...ideal for the motor industry, what it's designed for, but have used it and now cannot recommend it for modelling....such a shame but we'll find a replacement product I'm sure.
Doing the brick water the paint down a bit it runs into the gaps easier to wipe off also. Plus instead of single bits for the platform mark two, can the MDF be scored so it looks like single bits. They do it with brick. Great as normal Charlie, two weeks is a week to long.
MDF is like painting cardboard, the paint is sucked right into it and can look very patchy, so it needs to be primed and it doesn't like moisture and PVA is best for it. I was also thinking, why not etch it as one sheet, complete with edging, and leave the drain as a separate piece as it leaves options for the drain style and platform width. Revell Contacta also works on ABS plastics and I use the wire from a twist tie with the plastic removed to push down the steel tube to remove any blockage. Tamiya make an “extra thin” cement with a small brush in the lid that is excellent for “tacking” small parts in place, it has good capillary action and doesn’t leave a large glob of glue behind. Really enjoy your videos Charlie, well done.
I’m watching this platform development with interest Charlie. I shall be making some platforms for two long stations of four platforms each as well as a couple of little branch line island platforms in phase 3 of my build. That’s a little way off yet so lots of time to see if something can be developed here. I hope Steve & James are able to create something that works well and is reasonably easy to work with so that when I’m ready to build my stations there’s a product on the market. My island platforms will be curved as well, so interested to see if the final product offers that flexibility too.
Thanks Bryan , I’m so pleased that you found these videos interesting. I’m pretty sure that they will come up with a workable solution, but curved platforms are nightmare. Regards, Charlie.
Great video. Building platforms for my TT layout. Laser Cutter very useful tool. Do not need a very powerful one, since cutting thin sheets. I.e. cheap. Planning on a single section, with tiles engraved on it. Doing the same with the side sections.
When aplying your mortar effect to the bricks - use VERY well thinned paint. The surplus is MUCH easier to remove, and less messy and wasteful. You can always apply more if it's not enough. If using water-based paint, you can dampen the cloth. For spirit-based paints, use some thinners. This way you have miles more control.
premade platforms, there is a potential issue over "how wide do you make them?" I would suggest doing Set track spacing and streamline spacing as a minimum, and maybe a "wide" platform (I'd say really cut to order so as not to have stuff sat around) there is a "but my platforms won't be those widths", to be honest if that was a custom product I'd be seriously tempted to make damned sure my platforms were those widths also suggest laser cut platform edges, indeed an entire kit as well as just the deck oh yes, and that painting looks spot on, seriously nice job
Another excellent video Charlie. With regards to cutting sheet material I was taught once that you should always pull the knife towards you not across. It seems to work well.
I also came to the conclusion that it's fairly clear the individual stones make identical sections that are replicated along the platform. In other words, there is no need for them to be individual. A point about the gutter: I doubt if it would be one continuous length and there would be drains every so often - remember any buildings would need drainage from gutters etc and the end of the gutter needs somewhere to go! It's unusual for you to be unsure on how best to do something, a reminder we are all still learning? Look forward to seeing progress on this great endeavour!
That's why I suggested laminating polystyrene over top of the wood in place of anything else, it takes paint better and is more predictable to work with. Cheers!
For my four platforms 2m long, I have used SMS "steam era platform edging" in strips 140mm long, 7 to the pack #LX319-OO, which, once installed, can be easily sanded to create a bullnose. Behind these, for platform paving, I employed their 3 ft x 2 ft paving slabs in 277mm x 144 mm sheets. They match perfectly, and make a great platform. To deal with the joints between sheets, I added strips 1mm wide for "expansion" joints. A bit of grey paint, some weathering, and done and dusted.
On my current layout I've used Metcalf self adhesive paving (although I used rocket card glue too) I found the process quite relaxing when I got properly into it. I've also used the ones without the self adhesive with good results. A charcoal stick can then be used sparingly to weather them
Another really interesting and helpful video Charlie. I learn so much from your hints and tips. A pity to waste the 'failed' platform, which you could possibly use cut down as a disused goods platform somewhere on the layout? The broken edging wouldn't look out of place covered in weeds and grime. Thanks again for a thoroughly enjoyable video. All the best David
I really like the instruction on how to create these models, I learn a lot from your videos. I am not particularly good at finishing but, when you painted the white & ochre I think I would have thinned it a bit to let the brick stand out a bit more.
Think we’ve all had these sorts of false starts Charlie - and learned from them. For tarmac I use fine emery paper or scribed plasticard for paving slabs. My edge slabs are cut individually but that’s easier to do in 7mm. Thanks for ideas as always, Bob
Nice video. What you need is a compound mitre, which will do it much more accurately and easier than manually sawing it. Of course at a price. But once you have one of those you'll find you use it all the time.
A much nicer job than the ceramic tiles. Of all three laser cut elements I liked the channel drains most. As everyone's platforms are different, rather than a sheet with all three elements together, there might be a market for runs of edging and sheets of paving to be cut to size by the user. Then it could be used for street paving as well. Just a thought. Less being more, if you want your Roket glue to go a bit further I can recommend decanting some into a quilling bottle. I use them for card glue and PVA and it's amazing how accurate you can be and how little glue is actually required. Cheers
That must have been mind numbing. But they do look fantastic. Would there be a strip of tarmac in the centre or part way down the platform where it's been partially resurfaced over the years? Some slabs might have been replaced by a tamped bag of tarmac (it really does come in a bag. They fill potholes with it) or concrete as a cheap 'quick fix' which would definitely fit with the era of your layout. Also there might be a slight brown-ish colour to the slabs as they age, brake dust etc gets on them. Another thing might be to mix talcum powder into the paint as then it gives a grainy texture, especially if you're painting something that might be rusty, so that kind of rough horrible 60s concrete might be quite similar too as it often had those little bits of black gravel in it
Yet another stonker of a video Charlie. Really interesting to see the process of trial, error, success, improvement etc...The idea of an off the shelf laser cut platform surface sounds brilliant. My only thought was that a lot of platform canopy kits use a central support pillar - which may/may not work with the drains?
I have enjoyed see your progress with these platforms. With the tiles on the ramp, the tiles (as when you tile a bathroom, kitchen) should be cut so you don't have little thin strips. Great video, thank you.
If they are making a single sheet for the platform surface, there would need to be a way to cater for different platform widths - so you would have a piece (say) 2 inches wide, with the edging stones, another for the centre gutter, then a second 2 inch wide strip, with the edging stones for the other edge. For single-side platforms, then they could make something (maybe 3 inches) wide, with one lot of edge stones. I hope that makes sense...
Looks good. Like the idea that this might come in sheets to speed the process. Not sure how that might work. There would be issues with continuity, scale and regional variations with tiled platforms. Like the drain down the middle. Having a sheet that included platform edges, tiles and drain would certainly speed the process. Thanks for another brilliant insight into scratch building platforms.
As for the station surface I use wet and dry rubbing down sheets stuck to the surface and when dry then scribe the surface lightly to replicate the slates and edge.
To join sheets of brick or stone plasticard to make walls or viaducts, I've cut a matching recess in one vertical edge and the other with protruding courses. When interlocked together on the wall, the joins are much less noticeable. Any gaps can be further concealed with a smear of polyfilla or similar, then rubbed smooth with a finger. Visualise interlocking your fingers, to get the idea.
Always enjoy your videos and humour! The platforms are coming on well, really like that brick edging in particular. Looking forward to Platform 2 - The Revenge in a couple of weeks 😂
All credit to you. Life is about trial and error. I think everyone of subscribers are enjoying the journey. I don’t even have a layout but I live vicariously through what you do , it’s still fun. My retirement plan is to build a layout so I am compiling a list of what I would like to do. I love the fact that you have trod the path , `i know I will still have issues but its fun watching what you. All the best Alex
Thanks, Alex, I’m so pleased that you’re enjoying the journey. Regards, Charlie.
I really like the fact Charlie includes his mistake on his builds. Makes more gung ho on the build I am doing, and less concerned with making a mistake! I started a large layout in my basement after I retired. It is an awesome thing to keep me engaged and busy in retirement. Love this channel!
I do love your honesty, Charlie. Seriously, though, we all appreciate you showing your mistakes and saving us the pain and horror. I thank you, Sir! Much better result on the second attempt. Simon
Thanks Simon, rest assured there is a third version coming! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway look forward to it 👍👍
Hi can you please mention TT 120 to them a looking for 3.
The club room is opening on the 7 and 8 of September if you can make it.
@@StevenTT120Layout
Steve, can send me the details?
Regards Charlie
@@StevenTT120Layout we are just making our first TT:120 kit, a 3 road diesel depot. You never know, a TT:120 platform kit could be something that may show at some point.
Absolutely thrilled to hear some of the results of my own experiments helped you, Charlie. Thanks for the mention! I think these have turned out great so far. Looking forward to seeing it all progress.
And thanks to you, PG. Regards, Charlie.
I am enjoying your efforts to make platforms and it’s great that you’ve left in all the mistakes you’ve made so we don’t have to. I can’t be the only person whose layout does not allow long straight platforms, so it would be great if any new product made provision in some way for curved platforms. Keep up the great work. Charles
Thanks Charlie, rest assured I still have my curved platforms to build. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, found your channel after coming back to the hobby a few months ago. I have now watched every video (its took a while), and felt the need to say thanks for all the content. I enjoy the way you present and you have some great knowledge. Normally watch on a tv so dont comment, but as im now caught up, sat on the laptop so i could say, great work, i look forward to seeing more of your hints and tips, and watching the layout develop.
Paul.
Thanks, Paul, that’s most kind. It’s great to have you onboard, regards Charlie.
Charlie, your brick looks great. I really like the look of those pavers and drain too.
Thanks RF, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie
When painting brickwork cement, Add a little water to the mix. the paint flows into the cement coarses better.
Yes, I am aware of that, but I also wanted to leave a dusty finish on the brickwork. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, great "Take 2" on your platforms. Great techniques used there, putting a "skin" of Polystrene on the platform edge, and then using Polystrene glue is a great idea, and would work kell. I think Superglue has its place, but is a glue of last resort, as it need a Mechanical bond to hold, whereas the Polustrne cement is a chemical bond, so it will last forever.
The platform tiles look great, and is a great idea, making a "one sheet" may be difficult for different widths of platform, but hey, all issues can be overcome, no problems, just solutions and opportunities.
Your station area is progressing well,a nd I am loving the progress.
Cheers, and thank you for sharing, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks Michael, for such an excellent, and in-depth comment. Your support is much appreciated, regards Charlie.
That was absolutely amazing Charlie. Something so simple as platform construction and yet I was spellbound by the whole operation.
Certainly will bear it all in mind when I construct my N Gauge platforms.
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video so much. Regards, Charlie.
Looks great, Charlie! It was sad to see the results of the last one, but hopefully you agree that the lessons learned helped this one come along well! I think you will be proud of it for a long time.
Thanks Joe, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie, good to know even a master-modeller continues to learn and refine their craft. The platforms looking good. Dave
Thanks Dave, it’s very kind of you to say so. However, the story is over just yet. Regards Charlie.
Great video. I love how the brickwork turned out.
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Like other a have mentioned I love your honesty. It is heartwarming to know that I am not alone in making mistakes. Mind you I make so many mistakes I have lost count. Thanks again Charlie. Always enjoy watching your videos
Thanks, Kriso, remember mate we are only human. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes prone to making mistakes :)
Awsome, Mr B. Just awesome. I'm nearing the start of my retirement project to upgrade my layout, and so much of what I will do will be down to watching and implementing what I'm learning from your videos.
Thanks Stephen, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, it's good to see that I'm not the only one to not use the full stroke of the saw! Enjoying the videos, even if I model a different era, a lot of your techniques are lessons learnt. Lawrence
Don’t worry, Lawrence, no job is too small to botch. Regards, Charlie.
Some great ideas there Charlie. When I am doing a project "that matters" I use 18 mm ply (For 00) and use metcalffe platform for dressing. As all things tend to be over-sized I use N gauge for the main platform walking surface and the you can dress the facing and edges according to the period being replicated. The card brings the platform up to about 19mm. I also use my router to create a quarter inch wide channel on the under side of the platform for incorporating wiring for lights (Platform or platform buildings). That may seem odd but it then simply requires a drilling of a whole through to the channel and job done (A bit like a bus wire) To get a varied effect on any structure weathering I vary the distance between the paint source (Air brush or rattle can) and the object. Another great and honest video! Stay safe mate , Regards, Roger
Great idea, Charlie would be great too use. will love to see the end product 😊
Hopefully Adam, it will be in next weeks video. Regards, Charlie.
Another cracking construction video Charlie. The lengths that you go to for that genuine look have to be applauded and even more showing us the good bits as well as the not so good parts. I raise my hat to you sir. My older brain may not be so absorbent to knowledge as it used to be for new knowledge but you explain things in a way that even I can take in, this is very much appreciated. Thanks again.
Thanks Anthony, I too struggle to retain info. Regards Charlie
Oh my god, your attention to detail and patience! Looking amazing.
Yes, it is coming along well Axel. Regards, Charlie.
I do admire your truth and honesty in every video Charlie.
Looking forward to seeing what pre made platforms are developed definitely a market for them.
Thanks MRS, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, Thank you for the video. As always they are very informative and educational. I am building my first layout and have found lots of useful information in your videos.
I only recently learned of your military career. Although I live in the US, Thank You for your service to your country. My father served 30 years in the USAF. I wasn't military but served 30 years in Law Enforcement.
Again, thank you. Charlie in Nebraska
Many thanks Charlie, I’m so pleased you enjoy my videos. Likewise, we have both served our countries well. Regards, Charlie.
Great work as usual, Charlie and great tips. If the company looking in to the tile sheets manages to crack the problem, perhaps they might then be able to then offer bespoke sheets to suit different platform shapes (obviously at a cost), eg where lines converge/diverge and there's a station with a triangular central island platform - Kidsgrove (fairly local to me) is a typical example of what I mean?
Thanks, Gordon, it is a very interesting concept. Regards, Charlie.
Looks fantastic Charlie. Really impressive outcome.
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards, Charlie
For a Photographer, you have done the Tiling job very well
You need to see my kitchen tiling Graeme! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well you did need something to practice on for the important stuff!
Another great how to vid mate. When you mention all the tiling, all I could think of was, not another 3 days! But, you overcame that chore rather quickly. Arthur
You did right, Arthur, I thought I was going to be there for a few hours! Regards Charlie
The slabs did look really good put on individually like that but clearly it is hugely time consuming. Pre-made lengths would clearly be more practical for long platforms such as this but you probably do need some loose slabs as well for those areas where long straight sheets aren't so suitable. The slope actually looked fine the way you did it because in real life the people laying the paving suffer from the same problem and come up with the same solution of cutting slabs down to fit.
What I would say is that although the drain channel grating looks great it probably needs to be broken up here and there with a slightly larger square representing the main drain point for the channel to run in to.
Another tip (which you may well have done but didn't mention) is to remove your masking tape as soon as possible before the paint dries. If you wait until it is dry you run the risk of pulling up paint from your surface when you remove the tape as the paint has formed a layer across the join.
Thanks, L5766, for some excellent suggestions. Regards, Charlie.
A great step forward in platform construction, this is how this hobby moves forward. Having a great opportunity to work with a production team for something that can be utilised by many. Having a single piece of top surface with all the feature built in, only have to cut and glue then paint away.. platform design as per Charlie from Chadwick. A Great Leap Forward from the last experiment. Wishing all the best for the next platform and the station. All best Marc from Leighton Buzzard. Take care when cutting this new platform when comes to the join at the platform slope….
Charlie has taken a sample all-in-one piece away today to test. We await to hear how he gets on.
Thanks, Marc, you your advice is appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Thank you for your walts and all, easy-to-follow and step-by-step process of platform construction. Watching the process from the beginning is fascinating, seeing the final product, and reflection in action, from the learning curve during the process. Your hanging baskets also look very nice.
Thanks, librarian, I shall let Margaret know. Regards, Charlie.
Very informative and easy to understand video! Great job on the platform ~ Linda
Thanks Linda, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie for such an interesting series on platforms. I’ll shortly be at the same stage on my layout and am still puzzling the best way to construct the platforms. Your various experiments are a great help. I can’t help thinking that pre formed platform strips that you mentioned at the end might be the best way forward.
John
Thanks John, yes they are a very versatile solution, however unsuitable for curved platforms. Regards Charlie.
Thanks for all this Charlie, platform’s are so important and I’m rebuilding my own just the same. We really could have a mix of paving and tarmac if we we’re bold enough! Next problem for me is “high speed trains” yellow lines. I need to lay off the beer to do this! 😆
And don’t forget your tactile paving as well! Regards Charlie
That was quite a bit of work and you can't always tell how they are going to turn out. Your work showed the way to an improved method. The new one piece surface idea sounds very good. 😊👍
Thanks Pauline, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Another brilliantly honest video Charlie, thank you. I've used Metcalfe pavement slabs on my layout as they remind of the pavements around where I grew up and seem to do the job.
Look forward to your next episode of platform building.
All the best👍
Thanks David, that’s very kind of you. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, that was such a task, I admire your perseverance especially with all those tiles and the drainage channel. The final result was excellent in particular the corbelling.
If as a result of this a preprepared sheet can be made then this would be an excellent result for you and the Chadwick community.
All the best!!
Thanks David, rest assured we are making progress on the pre-prepared sheet. Regards, Charlie.
Another informative video Charlie. I look forward to your next video. Enjoy your weekend ahead.
Thanks, Mark, that’s most kind. Good luck with your project, regards Charlie.
Great job on the second round of platform construction! Must have been satisfying during the second build to to see it go so well, especially after the first attempt where you just weren't feeling much love for the project!
Thanks, Rob , but rest assured we have some even better now. Regards, Charlie.
1 1/2 hrs. Not bad. I think the tiles look beautiful. If I were to make my own platform , I'd be doing your way. I can't tell you how impressed I am.
Thanks Bob, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Fantastic work! Great ideas here Charlie. Your modeling is an inspiration. Thank you so very much.
Thanks Nick, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
brilliant video Charlie
Thanks, Mells, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie that looks great! Probably one of the nicest platforms I've seen. Really like the drainage grates.
Have you had the opportunity to see a channel named Chandwell? This gentleman scratch builds the most realist buildings in N-scale using a computer program called Inkscape. They are stunning and worth a look.
Thanks Chris, I shall certainly take a look. Regards, Charlie.
Great video as always Charlie. Lots of learning in this one. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Thanks Roy, and I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards, Charlie
Im on layout rebuild NO4, and I use white self adhesive cable trunking for my platforms… it’s the perfect height, and two together makes the perfect width!
Easy to cut to size, and scenic over and cover with self adhesive paper with a printed effects.
Can also run all the layout cabling through so it hidden from view and don’t need to go under baseboards etc!
What an excellent idea West Castle. Regards, Charlie.
I’d absolutely love to build a platform the same way, I’ve found that for what I’m building the pre-made ones tend to end a bit long or short and don’t have as much realism to them, they tend to just have flat sides. I’d definitely invest in a platform kit just like what you’ve done there with the paving stones.
Thanks Matt, I’m so pleased that you like the product. Regards, Charlie.
Excellent job as always Charlie! Thank you for sharing your techniques and allowing us to learn from your mistakes also, this video has really given me food for thought as I am about to start making my own platforms (well try at least!)
Thanks Lee, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
I think you have hit the mark balancing introducing a technique, demonstrating how to apply it and talking about the results. Great work! In the US I have seen "concrete stamp patterns" to make poured concrete look like pavers. I wonder if something like that could be 3D-printed instead of hand-laying hundreds of scale yards of individual paving stones. Your platform looks both amazing and highly representative of the location's photographs.
Thanks William, I’m so pleased that you agree that it was a interesting outcome. Regards, Charlie.
Brilliant video, and having a single sheet of tiles be far better and easier than single ones , and talking of
platforms ! 😂Did enough walking up and down those in my BR days as a railman ,closing the doors on the ' slam door' stock , always some one who would leave the door open or on the catch, right at the top of a 12 Cig/Vep emu or the loco hauled inter - regionals 😂, remember those ? Seems like yesterday and another lost piece of history.and one day I was finishing My shift and just seeing the Brighton to Manchester out ,when the driver of the class 47 learned out the cab and asked if I wanted to join him ,so as I was finished for the day I hopped on board and rode with him to reading, and what a cab ride that was ,nearly a ton between Acton and Reading, them were the days when you could get cab rides😊
Many thanks for sharing your memories Ian. Regards Charlie
Small tip Charlie.
Use a bachmann 08 for gauging up to the platform.
Because the coupling rods can hit the platform edges and you end up with a twisted crank.
I dont think I need to tell you how i know
An excellent tip, Terri. Many thanks, regards Charlie.
WELL we have learnt plenty, I was looking for the Square and out come THE SAW to mark a square line, good to see you using what is on hand. :)
Thanks Graeme, it took me years to figure out the saw handle was constructed with a 45° and 90° template. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailwayOccasionally that handy saw handle square - isn't!!!
A newish Stanley saw, made in France, after cursing it in broken french, I marked up it's yellow handle.
@@johnland7318 Shocking
The new platform looks fantastic, great job! For installing of the brickwork there would be a little trick to make things easier: Clamp another piece of wood on the topside of the platform. This way you can just push the bricks against the wood an get a perfect edge.
It’s a learning curve for us all mate.
Regards Charlie
Excellent saw work, there, Charlie. I end up having to plane a diagonal cut like that!
Nothing that a good sander won’t sort out Tom. Regards, Charlie.
Excellent video Charlie, thank you for the insight to the platform build, I really look forward to your two weekly YTV. Interesting learnings for all to consider. Much appreciated and keep up the content, we all appreciate it,
Thanks RR, that’s very kind of you to say so. Good luck with your project, regards Charlie.
Looks great Charlie. I use a thin enamel wash using a sand colour as the base for my pointing. May be worth a try for a future project. Kind regards Martin
Thanks, Martin, I’m always open to suggestions. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie.
Love your channel and i'm learning so much.
Just want to say if you ever have problems with the revel contacta glue nozzle, just wave a lighter over the end very quickly and it will melt the hardened glue. Little puff of smoke and your good to go.
Kind regards
Ian
Thanks Ian for a great tip.
Regards Charlie.
Doing a nice job charlie. Steve is a top chap eh. For Tarmac, Rustoleum ‘Aged Iron’ textured paint, then sand it back a bit works great.
All the best, Eric
Cheers buddy.
Thanks Eric, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
always a joy to watch Charlie
Thanks mate, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
Looking great. I use Buff Titanium by Daler & Rowney for Mortar, sometimes mixed into a little smooth polyfilla.
A trick with the Revell glue, if the nozzle dries / blocks up then squeeze the bottle gently whilst holding a flame under the metal tip. When you get a little flamethrower, job done!
Thanks, Dak Dak, much appreciated. No more glue stoppages! Regards Charlie.
Great video Charlie, loved the slabs, it would be good to add a random broken slab here and there 👍
We'll be adding the odd 'cracked' slab within the new design, subject to Charlie's approval of course.
Thanks, Alan, for a great suggestion. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, thanks for the idea of clamping down ruler etc to cut straight line, its one of those things that is always said "why didn't I think of that earlier". Regards Mark
Thanks Mark, for everyone, every day is a school day. Regards Charlie.
I do CAD and laser cutting at work. Having a single engraved sheet is a vastly better idea not just because it's easier to install by the modeller but for the company it'll be quicker to engrave the detail on one section of medite and then cut around the outside edge, as opposed to cutting each of those tiles. Less wear and tear on the laser!
Thanks Luke, for an excellent observation. Regards, Charlie.
Great video again .If you dont succeed the first time try try again . An alternative method of the brick mortar is to use very thinned down paint .Enamels work best . Just point a small brush head laden with the paint and the capillary action will do the rest filling in between the bricks.
Thanks, Garth, and many thanks for your suggestion. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie . Looking so much better .Life's to short to sit and apply hundreds of individual laser cut stone slabs . The idea of designing and producing a full platform is so much better . Its our local show this weekend in Inverness so will mention your channel to get the numbers up .
That’s most kind, David, and hopefully I’ll see you at Scott rail next year. Regards, Charlie.
Well done Chas very informative
Thanks John, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Thats a pretty impressive cut with a hand saw! Good on ya Charlie!
Thanks, Steve, not bad for a true amateur. Regards, Charlie.
Thank you for another great video Charlie!
Thanks Jade, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie nice looking platform especially like the central drainage channel something not often modelled, perhaps the new sheet could include the drainage channel and paving only with a wider width so it could be cut to size to allow the edge coppers to fit so it could be used to accommodate various width platforms. When sticking plastic sheet to timber I now use UHU POR adhesive which is designed for
Polystyrene. I use the Revell Contacta a lot it is good glue but the tube does tend to block to clear the tube it can be pulled and heated in a flame which will burn out the hardened glue and the tube replaced when cool only takes a moment to do. Halfords primer is an excellent product
Halfords have now changed their primers and the new grey primer is so much lighter and thinner...ideal for the motor industry, what it's designed for, but have used it and now cannot recommend it for modelling....such a shame but we'll find a replacement product I'm sure.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting in Gary. Choosing the correct clue, as always been a nightmare for me. Regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Charlie last resort should always be superglue
Looking good, Charlie 👍
Thanks Jeff, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie
Another extremely good video. Thank you once again.
Thanks RT, I’m so so pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards, Charlie
Looking fantastic Charlie ,
That’s very kind of you to say so DJ. Regards, Charlie.
Doing the brick water the paint down a bit it runs into the gaps easier to wipe off also. Plus instead of single bits for the platform mark two, can the MDF be scored so it looks like single bits. They do it with brick. Great as normal Charlie, two weeks is a week to long.
We've given Charlie a sample 'all-in-one' piece to test, so keep watching Charlie's videos for the latest news.
Rest assured Carlton, we’re on the case. Regards Charlie.
MDF is like painting cardboard, the paint is sucked right into it and can look very patchy, so it needs to be primed and it doesn't like moisture and PVA is best for it. I was also thinking, why not etch it as one sheet, complete with edging, and leave the drain as a separate piece as it leaves options for the drain style and platform width. Revell Contacta also works on ABS plastics and I use the wire from a twist tie with the plastic removed to push down the steel tube to remove any blockage. Tamiya make an “extra thin” cement with a small brush in the lid that is excellent for “tacking” small parts in place, it has good capillary action and doesn’t leave a large glob of glue behind. Really enjoy your videos Charlie, well done.
Thanks Kyce. We are currently constructing MDF sheets as a two piece item. Regards, Charlie.
I’m watching this platform development with interest Charlie. I shall be making some platforms for two long stations of four platforms each as well as a couple of little branch line island platforms in phase 3 of my build. That’s a little way off yet so lots of time to see if something can be developed here. I hope Steve & James are able to create something that works well and is reasonably easy to work with so that when I’m ready to build my stations there’s a product on the market. My island platforms will be curved as well, so interested to see if the final product offers that flexibility too.
Thanks Bryan , I’m so pleased that you found these videos interesting. I’m pretty sure that they will come up with a workable solution, but curved platforms are nightmare. Regards, Charlie.
Great video. Building platforms for my TT layout. Laser Cutter very useful tool. Do not need a very powerful one, since cutting thin sheets. I.e. cheap. Planning on a single section, with tiles engraved on it. Doing the same with the side sections.
Thanks, John, and good luck with your project. Regards, Charlie.
When aplying your mortar effect to the bricks - use VERY well thinned paint. The surplus is MUCH easier to remove, and less messy and wasteful. You can always apply more if it's not enough. If using water-based paint, you can dampen the cloth. For spirit-based paints, use some thinners. This way you have miles more control.
Thanks HG, much appreciated
Regards Charlie
Another great update Charlie
Thanks Dean, regards Charlie
premade platforms, there is a potential issue over "how wide do you make them?"
I would suggest doing Set track spacing and streamline spacing as a minimum, and maybe a "wide" platform (I'd say really cut to order so as not to have stuff sat around)
there is a "but my platforms won't be those widths", to be honest if that was a custom product I'd be seriously tempted to make damned sure my platforms were those widths
also suggest laser cut platform edges, indeed an entire kit as well as just the deck
oh yes, and that painting looks spot on, seriously nice job
Thanks leopard tail, however the width of the platform canopies I own, will have an influence on the platform width themselves. Regards, Charlie.
Another excellent video Charlie. With regards to cutting sheet material I was taught once that you should always pull the knife towards you not across. It seems to work well.
Thanks, Julian, safety is always paramount. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks again, Charlie, for another great video!
Thanks Vernon, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
I also came to the conclusion that it's fairly clear the individual stones make identical sections that are replicated along the platform. In other words, there is no need for them to be individual. A point about the gutter: I doubt if it would be one continuous length and there would be drains every so often - remember any buildings would need drainage from gutters etc and the end of the gutter needs somewhere to go!
It's unusual for you to be unsure on how best to do something, a reminder we are all still learning?
Look forward to seeing progress on this great endeavour!
Many thanks for your comment, Hugh. You are of course right, drains would not be continuous. Regards, Charlie.
Always love listening to you.
That’s most kind Stephen, and I do hope that you find it interesting too. Regards, Charlie.
Awesome Platform Charlie
Thanks Christopher, regards Charlie
That's why I suggested laminating polystyrene over top of the wood in place of anything else, it takes paint better and is more predictable to work with. Cheers!
Thanks, David, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
For my four platforms 2m long, I have used SMS "steam era platform edging" in strips 140mm long, 7 to the pack #LX319-OO, which, once installed, can be easily sanded to create a bullnose. Behind these, for platform paving, I employed their 3 ft x 2 ft paving slabs in 277mm x 144 mm sheets. They match perfectly, and make a great platform. To deal with the joints between sheets, I added strips 1mm wide for "expansion" joints. A bit of grey paint, some weathering, and done and dusted.
Thanks Jack, that’s really useful. Regards, Charlie.
On my current layout I've used Metcalf self adhesive paving (although I used rocket card glue too) I found the process quite relaxing when I got properly into it. I've also used the ones without the self adhesive with good results. A charcoal stick can then be used sparingly to weather them
Sounds like you found a useful process, TVQ. Regards, Charlie.
Another really interesting and helpful video Charlie. I learn so much from your hints and tips. A pity to waste the 'failed' platform, which you could possibly use cut down as a disused goods platform somewhere on the layout? The broken edging wouldn't look out of place covered in weeds and grime. Thanks again for a thoroughly enjoyable video. All the best David
Thanks, David, and yes, I am hunting down for somewhere to put the disused platform. Regards, Charlie.
love the new platforms very good
Thanks four Oaks, I’m so pleased that you like the result. Regards, Charlie.
I really like the instruction on how to create these models, I learn a lot from your videos. I am not particularly good at finishing but, when you painted the white & ochre I think I would have thinned it a bit to let the brick stand out a bit more.
Thanks Phil, good luck with your project. Regards Charlie
I could absolutely use that idea but i’m working in tt120 so i need to scale the whole thing down. Smashing job tho’ Charlie👍.
Thanks T4, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards, Charlie.
Think we’ve all had these sorts of false starts Charlie - and learned from them. For tarmac I use fine emery paper or scribed plasticard for paving slabs. My edge slabs are cut individually but that’s easier to do in 7mm. Thanks for ideas as always, Bob
Thanks, Bob, and I’m pretty sure that you’re dead right regarding Emery cloth. Regards, Charlie
Nice video. What you need is a compound mitre, which will do it much more accurately and easier than manually sawing it. Of course at a price. But once you have one of those you'll find you use it all the time.
A good suggestion rob, and much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Loving your videos my friend 👍👍👍👍
Thanks, EJ, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
A much nicer job than the ceramic tiles. Of all three laser cut elements I liked the channel drains most. As everyone's platforms are different, rather than a sheet with all three elements together, there might be a market for runs of edging and sheets of paving to be cut to size by the user. Then it could be used for street paving as well. Just a thought.
Less being more, if you want your Roket glue to go a bit further I can recommend decanting some into a quilling bottle. I use them for card glue and PVA and it's amazing how accurate you can be and how little glue is actually required. Cheers
Thanks Davie, I do realise we all have separate platform requirements. Good luck with your project, regards Charlie.
That must have been mind numbing. But they do look fantastic.
Would there be a strip of tarmac in the centre or part way down the platform where it's been partially resurfaced over the years? Some slabs might have been replaced by a tamped bag of tarmac (it really does come in a bag. They fill potholes with it) or concrete as a cheap 'quick fix' which would definitely fit with the era of your layout. Also there might be a slight brown-ish colour to the slabs as they age, brake dust etc gets on them. Another thing might be to mix talcum powder into the paint as then it gives a grainy texture, especially if you're painting something that might be rusty, so that kind of rough horrible 60s concrete might be quite similar too as it often had those little bits of black gravel in it
Thanks DJ, for some sound advice.
Regards Charlie
Yet another stonker of a video Charlie. Really interesting to see the process of trial, error, success, improvement etc...The idea of an off the shelf laser cut platform surface sounds brilliant. My only thought was that a lot of platform canopy kits use a central support pillar - which may/may not work with the drains?
I think we sorted that one Clive, I didn’t think you would have the drains under the canopy. Regards, Charlie.
I have enjoyed see your progress with these platforms.
With the tiles on the ramp, the tiles (as when you tile a bathroom, kitchen) should be cut so you don't have little thin strips.
Great video, thank you.
Thanks Mel, rest assured it is a learning process. Regards, Charlie.
If they are making a single sheet for the platform surface, there would need to be a way to cater for different platform widths - so you would have a piece (say) 2 inches wide, with the edging stones, another for the centre gutter, then a second 2 inch wide strip, with the edging stones for the other edge. For single-side platforms, then they could make something (maybe 3 inches) wide, with one lot of edge stones. I hope that makes sense...
Charlie has taken away a sample 'all-in-one' piece to test. We'll certainly look at options for different widths.
Yes, I’d definitely say this is a good idea 👍
Thanks, Ken, this new design formula is still embryonic. Regards, Charlie.
Looks good. Like the idea that this might come in sheets to speed the process. Not sure how that might work. There would be issues with continuity, scale and regional variations with tiled platforms. Like the drain down the middle. Having a sheet that included platform edges, tiles and drain would certainly speed the process. Thanks for another brilliant insight into scratch building platforms.
Thanks George, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Pains taking work pays off but I think very time consuming..your attention to real detail certainly looks superb though Charlie....
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
As for the station surface I use wet and dry rubbing down sheets stuck to the surface and when dry then scribe the surface lightly to replicate the slates and edge.
Thanks Phil, wet and dry is something that I am going to use a little later. Regards, Charlie.
To join sheets of brick or stone plasticard to make walls or viaducts, I've cut a matching recess in one vertical edge and the other with protruding courses. When interlocked together on the wall, the joins are much less noticeable. Any gaps can be further concealed with a smear of polyfilla or similar, then rubbed smooth with a finger.
Visualise interlocking your fingers, to get the idea.
Thanks, Al, great suggestion. Regards, Charlie.
Always enjoy your videos and humour! The platforms are coming on well, really like that brick edging in particular. Looking forward to Platform 2 - The Revenge in a couple of weeks 😂
Thanks mate, it’s great to have you on board. Regards, Charlie.