Nothing HM is going to be able to do at this point that is going to save this guy and real $$ or problems,, just saying. That car was pretty new and that motor and turbo is shot...this happened to my 7R.
Someone ( more specifically Charles) just needs to machine these thrust washers out of a better material I’m pretty sure they can be accessed from underneath the car when you drop the oil pan and every person who’s got an EA888 can save an entire car...
I actually went through the same process with my MK7 GTI. I actually did a whole engine rebuild series on my channel. Let me know if you want to get together and chat about it.
Note that the IE crate engine uses the same thrust washer design, although the material may be different. VFC is right that metallurgy could be a factor but the true issue is the design. Most engines and most historical VW engines have four half face thrust washers - an upper washer and lower washer on either side of the center crank bearing. Since about 2006 VW has only used the upper halves on their engines to reduce cost and emissions. If he gets a new or rebuilt engine, he needs to get the lower center cap machined to accept thrust washers so he'll have four instead of two. Maybe VFC can figure out how to do it, but there's a shop in Ontario called Foreign Automotive that's known to do it well.
IE crate motors will require beefier K04 turbo, upgraded intercooler as well to handle that power. This is the problem with modifying w/o tracking a car. Contact a Charles in NC (youtube channel Humble Mechanic) who was a VW tech for years. Partners w/ Paul at Deutsche Auto Parts. he can provide tons of advice related to mods. Where I get my parts for the GLI from that I track
To all the people recommending he buys a new car: what should he do to the golf? Sell it fixed or unfixed? I think the initial deciding factor here is whether you want to keep the car or not Jason. If yes, the next factor is do you want it stock or modded? If you don’t want to keep the car, should you fix it before getting rid of it or not? In my humble personal opinion: if you keep it go the performance build route. If you decide to get rid of the car compare it’s value before and after fixing it and go with the higher value route. Have a nice day, and don’t worry bro we’ve all been down the “modification” road! The great news is that every problem has a solution.
So sorry to hear this man. If it adds any meaning to your pain, your experience is probably going to encourage a lot of people to really think about what they do to their cars.
I want to thank you guys for this full disclosure experience you're sharing. I'm doing similar things on the platform and wonder about this exact scenario and to see the process.
Take it from a MK2,MK6, GTI owner and lover. These cars Depreciate so fast in value it would be crazy to spend that much on a engine. If it was me I would put it back together broken but moving on it’s own power. Roll it over to Car supplies warehouse and use it as a demo vehicle for products and do’s/don’t for car detailing. If you go back to the repair shop please ask them if this same thing would’ve happen on a DSG transmission ? I had APR stage 1 on a DSG and beat the Holy Hell out of it with no issues. Wonder if I dodge a bullet ? Good luck with whatever you do. !
That’s a very expensive demo, the car is still worth money. This is a non issue for the DSG, the upgraded clutch was too much for the stock thrust bearing.
Usually DSGs fail fast when you start pushing the power, all the internals are really well calculated and designed for the specific power it comes with from factory.
Mk7's went up in value since the 8 is shit lol my 7 went up 3 grand after they released the 8 photos. Idk never experience this before and had an mk5 and 6....we will see
@@ALIENdrifter66 Don't know where you're hearing this...DSGs are vastly over-engineered and respond incredibly well to tuning and power bumps. Many people are actually swapping DSGs into big turbo builds for their fast shift times, look it up! From my own experience, I had an early MK5 GTI with the early DSG (which were actually more prone to failure than newer ones). Yet tuned from 70K miles and stage 3+ from 100K miles, the car ran to 200K with no issues, on the original clutch packs! Finally sold to a friend and it's still going strong.
He should put it back to stock, reset any codes, trade it in and be done with it. Why build a car like this. When you could put the extra cash towards an r
Performance all the way. Take all the mods to the next level then take it to all the shows to show off the car and the amazing detailing work you guys do! Then put it through the books! Winner winner chicken dinner!
I feel your pain. Same thing happened to me with my 2015 Gti with 58000 kms (36000 miles). Stage 1 tune and Sachs performance clutch. Not driven hard and regularly serviced. My daily driver. Had big plans for it too. Ended up installing a second hand motor with new flywheel and clutch for $16k Australian dollars ($12k usd). It was off the road for 6 months. The Gti was my dream car. Took 30 years to finally buy one brand new. Got it back 2 weeks ago so still breaking in the clutch. Will most likely keep it for a year or two and Then buy something other than a VAG. Best of luck with your Gti.
I'm glad I got out when the parts that broke on my Volkswagen were under $400. Before I bought one of these TSI motors, I researched them and was overwhelmed with so many engine problems. And I have upgraded clutches without problems on earlier models.
You can't blame VW for not designing a thrust bearing that will withstand a clutch rated for 450+ ft/lbs or torque. It is my understanding the damage is done on startup. You have pressure on the crank end, thus thrust bearing with minimal lube. Key is to be able to start the engine with no pressure on the crank end like a DSG car, coincidentally they don't have crank walk problems.
Car wasn't right when you purchased it,you actually noticed the slow uptake of power and a slight judder,so why not get back to outlet you purchased it from and at least get some of repair cost out of them. Just a thought from an old Scot.🙂
lol okay. "hey there was a problem when I bought the car that really showed itself after i upgraded the turbo and clutch, can you help you help with the repair costs?..that will go over very well.
Buy a 'Clutch to Start Bypass' removes the need for clutch in when turning the car on, which reduces wear on the thrust washer and other components. Installed it on my Manual VW Scirocco R and is recommended with modified cars/uprated clutches. Seen a few issues exactly the same as this.
I highly doubt the issue was caused, or significantly worsened, by starting the car with the clutch in. The clutch is going to get put in way more during actual driving.
Damn... That's the problem with going into the "modification rabbit hole"... I would approach it as you would talking to a potential detailing client... you could do the standard Chicago Auto Pros detail or the $10K detail. I went through the same dilemma when the transmission of my Jeep Grand Cherokee decided to eat its clutch packs a little over a month out of warranty. Started as an "intermittent loss of power of a few seconds " to bucking like a rodeo horse" when it went. I had three options... new transmission with a full warranty, a rebuilt transmission with a two year warranty or a used transmission with no warranty. I chose the rebuilt transmission. If you are planning on keeping it for a long time and keeping the mods, then go for the rebuild with the forged internals. You know what you can afford... your biggest problem, though is convincing the lovely Mrs. Otterness to go along with it.
Dude sorry this happened. I bought a brand new manual 17' MK7 3yrs ago and I'm telling you get rid of it. I've not had issues but I'm stock. No engine mods🤦🏽♂️ but crank walk pumps fear in me😧 Volkswagen should be held accountable.
Ive had VW all my life and I love them. If I was in this position, I would put it back to stock, get rid of it and get something else. That price just isn't justifiable unless you're going big power.
In the next video I show why this option will actually cost me more $$ in the end. Plus I did look at other cars and really couldn’t find anything I liked more than the GTI.
Chicago Auto Pros GTI is the best hatch out there now , had a speed 3 back in the day and never had a issue with it loved that car even to today it’s nothing close to what the GTI is , Mazda made it so beefy never had a problem with it and I had a gt3071 turbo in it aswell
Ralph Ruiters you’re drunk. I’ve been in the focus and the interior is garbage by comparison. The ride quality is awful by comparison. Read any automotive reviews if you want to confirm this. The MK7 is a very reliable platform.
Price analysis to follow! I currently own a mk6 GTI, 2010 Wolfsburg, manual, and I absolutely love it. No hot hatch can come close to matching the balance of both performance and comfort, with such a premium interior. Especially when well taken care of, as I'm sure yours is. How incredibly unfortunate this design/manufacturing issue seems to be so common on upgraded clutches on the mk7s. Maybe it will turn into an extended warranty through a class action lawsuit like the whole timing chain tensioner failures of the 2005-2014 engines. Hopefully. Until then, options are tough. I'm not from your area but did a quick search and it looks like a similar GTIs to yours (not including added value from PPF/Tints/Ceramic Coating/upgrades (if they count, sometimes they don't help used sale) are selling for 15-20k, with I believe similar milage (yours being just over the 60k warranty). Even the cheapest option is close to half the value on paper. That said, as you know it's truly a great car to own and drive, and the thought of rebuilding with performance internals to handle it's current power and any future power you would want is very tempting. Knowing it's a fresh engine and you plan to keep it for at least 6-7 years is great. The difference on paper in rebuilding with performance internals is a difference of ~1500, and you keep all the mods you have. If you Rebuild with stock parts and return to stock, you would have to sell your mods and could recoup some of the cost, but then you lose the performance that you were enjoying. As a car guy, and enthusiast for the car, it would definitely be worth going the performance route if you rebuild. Definitely. Now rebuild vs used motor. Close to double to rebuild. Used motor recoups some cost from selling mods, but again lose performance, lose value from having the not-original motor when it comes time to resell, and you lose knowing it's service and vehicle history. Performance rebuild you would think would actually increase the cars value, but also narrows the target market when you want to sell. It should at least be worth what it is now (before engine issues). Also consider (depending how revenue from RUclips videos works since it's the company channel but also run by you) that income from these videos can go towards covering costs, as you know (but that will be for whatever option you choose). Not just through ad revenue, but you could also leverage the RUclips channel's reach and presence to get discounts/sponsors from other companies that might have what you need. I'm going to wind this up as it's far longer than it needs to be and taking up too much of your time if you're still reading. Options are performance rebuild for 13.5k, used motor for 7.4k, on a car worth 15-20k before these issues. It needs a new engine, so it's either these or you buy a new/used car. If you want to keep it, I think it's worth the extra to go with the performance build. Sure it's more expensive than the used option, but it's new, you can keep it for a long time, and it will be worth much more when you decide to sell. No matter what happens, you need to spend a lot of money, even if you wanted to sell it and get a new car to replace it. You'd still need to get it running to get any kind of decent money for it. Plus, I'm sure you'll love the process, having a one-of-a-kind, a story to tell, with a car you've loved to own. Again, apologies for the long comment but I wanted to try and put myself in your shoes and see what I would do in your position, I hope it helped ease your mind with the decision you made, as I'm sure it's already been done, no matter what route you took. Keep up the great content and I look forward to chapter 3!
There's no basis for a class action lawsuit because the manufacturer didn't build an engine to be able to handle an aftermarket part. If this were happening to stock cars in droves (which it definitely is not), then maybe.
Dude that sucks. The engine took a shit in my 2015 GTI casually driving home from work one day. VW replaced the long block and put in a brand new turbo with a build date of March 2019. Covered under warranty thankfully. Total cost: Just under $15k. I paid my warranty deductible and that was that. I was under the impression that the mk7 was the most reliable when I bought it and I was pretty pissed when it happened. Only had 40k miles when it died, has 58k now.
Seeing that it only happens to manual trans it seems like the ea888 is designed to work well with the DSG, such as the 7/7.5R. VW and other German manufacturers all focus into dual clutches or zf boxes nowadays and manual is just an after thought for enthusiasts.
Yeah my MkV GTi had a cam follower that had worn the camshaft lobe. Cams replacements on it was about 2-3.5k. The dealership I bought the car used went the route of replacing the motor with a used one with similar mileage. They paid 6.5k to get it back on the road. I sold the car after I put another 40k miles on it. The labor on German cars is unreal btw.
Just paid for a rebuild of my stock mk6 golf r DSG. 7k AUD. 132,000km. Apparently a common problem from what I read with this model. Figured it was still worth the cost since I bought it really cheap and still sells for a reasonable amount.
I had the same problem with my MK6. I took the easy route and bought a new engine. Then I did the install myself, and it took me two days 6 hours/day. My engine cost me $5000 from VW, and this does not include my salary for the repair.
If you plan on keeping the car for a while because you actually enjoy driving it, I'd definitely opt for a performance rebuild. Especially if they're going to "future proof" it to handle more power. You'll have a much better peace of mind. Plus the shop will know exactly how to work on the engine if anything else comes up later. It's like prepaying for full support. That's invaluable.
I feel your pain.... went down this with my 91 eagle talon 4g63 engine. Crankwalk happened and had a rebuilt engine 2000km later it happened again. Had a ACT 2600 clutch in it and it caused the failure. There have been a number of people who have had a similar issue on the mk7 GTIs 6 speeds. If I were you I’d get a good used engine, flash to stock and trade it in ASAP. Unless an upgraded thrust washer exists it will most likely fail again with a upgraded clutch. It’s not worth getting sentimental over a car. Maybe a DSG might be ok.
personally if you feel you cant pay that money at this current moment then just get a different engine and revert it all back to stock (will be better longevity,less stress on the engine which could also be a really good path for you)
Is the "rebuild" using stock main and rod bearings? If it was materials failure then it needs to be upgraded materials on the bearings or you will have the same issue.
Jason if you really love the car what I would is to buy a beater car for work and rebuild the engine with performance parts better pistons, block bigger turbo and make a project. I hope it helps buddy looking forward to hear back!
Option 1, you have a plan for this car, and you never know whit a used engine how its going to work. Thats not to recommend if you plan to keep the car. If you go whit the new engine Option you still be stuck whit the same problem that is going to break down eventually cause of the setup. Option one will give you a better engine then the fabric engine and will last for many years plus you will get a good warranty on the engine. And you will always know that your engine is in perfect condition when you are the one that takes care of it frothy start. If it were an older model I would get rid of the car, but this one I would keep. Good luck man, just a crazy swede thinking out loud. Peace ✌
Over here in Europe, VW has lost its name in making reliable cars several years ago. The TSI engines are known for high oil consumption, the timings chains are weak what could end up failing too (again engine failure). I've been there with an Audi A3 (same technics as the VW). It was my most expensive car so far in buying but also in maintenance and repairs obviously. I was heavily disappointed with this. It should be premium stuff, but actually it was worse than almost every other cheaper car brand. When I was in your place, I would put in a used engine and ditch the GTI. VW and reliability in that Era don't go that well together. Just my 2 cents.
@@ChicagoAutoPros We should know how this car was designed and typically how long Germans people keep their car such as GTI where most Golf were sold. German people only have 3y warranty in engine not 6y like American. After 5 y usuall they buy another one and export it to eastern Europe who can fix things cheapers. Except for Diesel van, they kept them longer because rarely used or use them as hauler for long trips.
It’s a bummer for sure, Jason. Coming from two modded vw’s and now into a s4, there’s a reason Audi’s drivetrain is still stock. If it were my car, I’d put it to stock and do the used motor route.
Throw in a used motor, part out the mods, trade it in. I know 2 guys who have had AWFUL luck with their IE crate race motors, wouldn't touch one with a 12ft pole.
I dont know if this will help at all but my mate has a mk7 golf gti with an Audi RS3 engine in it. Its currently running around 700bhp and 780 lb ft of torque. Its blisteringly fast. Apparently the conversion was relatively easy as much of the specs were the same. They are all VAG cars after all.
brenden coviello I hope you get you car running again . I love my mk7.5 I have a 2019 .. I’m a little hesitant to tune it since I’ve seen your video and JB14 but I have a 7 speed dsg
brenden coviello im not sure he’s base out in Newyork City . I would appreciate if you would post another video that goes into detail on why this happened I know your mechanic explained why but seems like Volkswagen has some things they need to fix
Yes, this is one of those hard life decisions. Doing all those mods is exciting and costly, both now and in the future ownership. Never do this again to a daily driver, especially your current daily mileage. So much I can relate to and share.
I would just go for a low mileage used motor for like $2-3k. But be warned, the same problem will quite possibly return if the stock thrust bearings are left in and an upgraded clutch installed.
okay. i’m seriously concerned. i’ve got a mk7.5 2020 currently cobb stage 1. wtf. should i even go stage 2 with a new clutch. this is the first i’ve heard of this. not sure what tune you have but i know out of all the tune options cobb’s always on the conservative side
People need to realize you cant just put stage 2 parts on a stock engine , this is not VWs fault. Within spec those bearings do their job if you drive correctly with proper oil intervals.
@@eval7952 it's a thrust washer placed between the block and the crankshaft to control end play (back and fourth) so the crank needs to be removed to replace them. Not easy at all. The DSG trans sees this issue a lot less
I suggest you check out Moible one Inc in Glenview. 10+ years of VW Audi experience and very reasonable service. Nice guy named Jason! Best of luck with this
This is a common issue on these cars with manual transmission unfortunately and doesn’t exist on a dsg. Put it back together, go to a vw dealer and ask how much more to upgrade to a dsg golf r instead. This is coming from a vw enthusiast btw. It’s not worth spending $10k on that car.
Stock engines will not have this issue with normal driving. But the engine has all ready been pushed stock to max. Additional modding, tuning on those engines are not recommended.
Oh man, this conversation seems like a déjà vu to me when I go through the lists for my rotary. I totally feel you brother. Whichever option you pick, im here giving you support, love your content!
I had a mk6 GTI that was stage 3+ for most of it's life and stage 2 for the last 3 years before I sold it. I had the southbend stage 2+ clutch installed on it for years. Sold it with 140,000 miles on it. It was a money pit maintenance wise since i bought it with 109,000 miles on it. I replaced the PCV valve twice and Turbo but other than that engine wise no issues. I don't understand how this can be an issue since the Golf R's have essentially the same engine with a larger turbo, tune, upgraded clutch etc. and have zero issues with the crank bearing. Something just doesn't seem right than a clutch is what caused this. No way. Since then I myself bought a MK7.5 DSG and have had zero issues with reliability. Look into it more and ask the HumbleMechanic for more information on this for sure.
I highly recommend speaking to Mo at the VW Autobarn Evanston. He's a master tech and knows everything about these cars. He's the only tech I trust with my GTI in the Chicago area.
If you really love it, build it and have that thrust washer fixed with upgraded material along with the other common failure points. Then you can really beat on it. If the value of the car and its age is really a problem for you, get it right and trade it.
@@bonerjams2k3 Not when you don't do dumb upgrades and call your neighbor with a laptop a "tuner". I've owned 9 Subarus, and guess what, never had an engine fail. So that leads me to believe the owners are the problem.
If you plan on keeping the car for the life of it and want to keep upgrading it a performance build Build would be the way to go maybe reach out to some places and do sponsor vids to lower the cost. Best of luck love watching your vids!!
Certified pre owned Audi RS3. More powa baby, AWD, direct and port injection so not the carbon build up you see on DI alone, and the 5cyl are very well built. Granted they are still hefty in price, with all the mods you wanted to do it might not be bad.
sounds like you just gave a big heads up to all GTI MK7 owners in US, but i'd consider cheapest option to swap for a used engine, and ditch the GTI (biased as I'm not a VW fan, they are overpriced and under engineered). Might be worth looking at getting a cool/rare Focus RS instead!
I feel for ya and in this spot I would have to say drop it if I were in your shoes. Daily driver means further issues down the road. Buy something fuel efficient ( 60 miles a day...good lord man) and then search for something to play with later. Just my thoughts but best of luck in any decision you make sir! PS new shop closer to home maybe. Lol
Change the clutch to a dual mass flywheel. TTRS clutch and pressure plate. Good enough for stage 2+ with the is38. Otherwise crankwalk will always be knocking on your door. There's plenty of shops who build these motors everyday, but I don't think its the right thing for you because it is a gti, older model and won't be able to put the power down anyways. If it was an R maybe a different story. Just my 2 cents from working on these cars everyday and building a handful of EA888.3 myself
Hate to see this play out this way. I’m a fellow MK7 owner and understand your love for the car. This is your daily car. My advice is to put in a used/remanufactured stock motor, replace with a stock clutch and return to stock power. Doing this will give you a car you can drive reliably for many more years and you will have spent far less than the value of the whole car. Realistically the car is worth maybe $12,000 on trade. Don’t put the fully rebuilt motor in this car. You’ll never be able to get your money out of it when you consider the mileage you put on. If you really have the mod bug I’d fix this to the level you are comfortable to pass to the next owner and buy something that is ready for the power you want to throw at it.
Despite the situation your in right now (I really feel your pain), why didn’t the guys who installed the clutch and made the stage 2 inform you about the risks?? I mean it’s a common problem as you already know and they didn’t know about it? That just doesn’t sound professional for me. As well as not checking on how much the car actually has torque and horsepower after the installation (fine tuning etc). Or maybe they did and you just didn’t show us? I have a gti on my own (DSG) and that’s why I’m a fan of rebuilding the engine but 13 grand seem like a lot to me. I would probably go for a used one or maybe ask some other youtubers like samcrac or legit street cars for help and maybe a cooperation in rebuilding the engine and making some content out of it? Maybe it would be like a win - win situation? I wish you all the best and hope the car stays in the channel cause it was nice to look how and what is made on a model I actually have ;)
Stock clutch cannot handle well all the torque increases from all the upgrades. Stock clutch in those cars was mostly meant to hold stock powers otherwise it wears out quicker. Also i red that single mass flywheels do beat up the engine more than the Dual Mass flywheel which the car runs on initially. So what some people on forums were saying is that running an aftermarket clutch with DMF is safer than SMF clutch. This issue is not very common btw considering how many tuned GTIs are out there.
Mostafa Mougharbel agree on everything but the common thing ;). It is on manuals. The guy from “Bosh Service” actually said the same. If you gonna change the clutch and nothing more, you probably gonna end up with the same issue... or you have luck :)
@@johnny_b2 oh i know it can happen to any GTI, but single mass flywheels do speed up the process and the majority of tuned GTIs actually run SMF because it's much more available than DMF in aftermarket clutches and you got many options and overall cheaper prices. An example would be DKM clutch, the whole kit with the flywheel is 800$ 😁 and it's a good brand and a known clutch. But clutches like Sachs do keep the OEM feel to the clutch which is nicer since no shattering and weird noises coming out of the car.
@@johnny_b2 I am also in a big GTI community with the majority driving manual GTIs too and i have yet to run into someone who has this issue. I actually saw this video through someone posting the video on the group page 😅. The issue can occur in DSG too btw.
Do you really drive 140 miles day! I love it! It's always rare to see people who buy cool cars and actually put real miles on them. I have a long commute also, but for that reason I've been afraid to buy a fun car
@@ChicagoAutoPros nothing unfortunate about that, you probably get to live in a cool area, without the headache of Chicago, and reasonable traffic. And with a cool car, it makes the commute fun!
Just spun a bearing in my CJAA 2.0L mk6 TDI w/ 117,xxx miles. Oil changes were all done at 6k instead of 10k, and I don't over rev the engine. Lost for words, and I need an engine swap now. $$$
My MKVI gti is currently dead in my drive way. I spun a bearing after losing oil pressure for a few seconds. I rebuilt it with new bearings and a crank. I'm unmodded btw.
Also, the clutch isn't why you lost oil pressure. You spun a bearing from oil pressure loss. The oil pump is chain driven and is manual. So don't beat yourself up thinking a clutch had anything to do with this.
Take it from me, who spent $15k on a rare car rebuild that ended up having to sell for $13k, don't rebuild that engine. Sell it for as much as you can and move on.
Put a recon salvage engine in it, put it back to stock and sell it. Start again with a performance car, modding causes these problems. Great Cayman, is it yours, Ive got a 2.9.
I would get a used engine, and then do an oil analysis at your first oil change to make sure it is healthy. Stage two clutch shouldn't cause your issues.
I have a Scirroco 2009 manual clutch stage 2 tune and i'm scared daily that this will happen to me. I also have the sound that disappears when I push the clutch in like in his first video.
oh man, that's heart breaking. Is this something a DSG could possibly suffer from? I just bought my first MK7 Golf GTI performance pack with the DSG transmission, been trying to get one for the last 3 years really. I picked it up 11/28/2020, and just ordered a AWE track exhaust for it, no harm in that, but I also plan on going APR stage 1 and intake minimum. This is a little scary O_O I absolutely love my GTI and I intend to keep it for a very long time.
Look, honestly look around at performance euro shops and see what they charge for a standard rebuild or different stages if you wanna go a different route. I guarantee you that you'll find a shop that'll do a complete rebuild for way less than 10k-12k. That is a ridiculous price for a rebuild. I understand that people need to make their money, but what you are paying for is for that Volkswagen certified technician name. I guarantee you that you'll find a literal euro performance shop in the Chicago land area that can do it for less.
Not set in stone, but I always say , if you drive these cars normal, and do not alter them with a ton of aftermarket add ons and different tunes, they will usually be pretty reliable.I am not saying you have to baby these cars because people who buy these cars like to drive . But drive them stock and due routine maintenance and 9/10 times they will be pretty reliable .With all the add ons and different tunes you altering the main course of the engine.
I built my 2016 A3 to stage 3 and it was awesome....but I sold it because I knew it was a ticking time bomb of repairs. I loved the car but it just wasn't worth the potential cost if things started going to hell.
The dreaded crank walk seems to be a big problem with these cars.. I have a stage 2 tune with a southbend stage 3 daily clutch and Iam terrified this is going to happen to me.. I love my Mk7 but I feel like Im driving a time bomb now and im really considering selling it now.
Could be, but that’s not always the case. I have a twin plate clutch and the discs rattle when the clutch pedal isn’t pressed in since the day it was installed.
It's common in Single mass flywheel clutches the rattles and knocks. I would personally run a Dual mass flywheel aftermarket clutch to keep the OEM feel to the clutch.
Put in a used engine from a 2016 or newer which don't have the thrust washer issue. You can keep your mods. Get multiple estimates. Their # seems unusually high.
I stuffed a couple more ads in this one to help pay for my car, LOL. Thanks for watching everyone and I really appreciate all the positive comments.
Drop a used engine on it, and dump the gti...i have never had good luck with rebuilds on performance cars. Move to another brand.
BUILD IT
Built Not Bought
😂😂😂
Buy salvage gti with good engine for parts. Replace engine, sell rest parts and you even can make some money
Thank God for Premium lol
I think you need to speak to the humble mechanic here in youtube about that strange failure he's VW experienced.
What about The Humble Mechanic ? He's a VW specialist with plenty of experience, and may be up to a collab video!
Just watched Humble Mechanic going through same problem with blown engine (Money Shift) PDK?
Nothing HM is going to be able to do at this point that is going to save this guy and real $$ or problems,, just saying. That car was pretty new and that motor and turbo is shot...this happened to my 7R.
Sounds like it’s time for a collab with @humblemechanic 😎
Scotty
Someone ( more specifically Charles) just needs to machine these thrust washers out of a better material
I’m pretty sure they can be accessed from underneath the car when you drop the oil pan and every person who’s got an EA888 can save an entire car...
I actually went through the same process with my MK7 GTI. I actually did a whole engine rebuild series on my channel. Let me know if you want to get together and chat about it.
Integrated Engineering has crate motors, built for 500 HP.
Thanks for this suggestion, something to definitely look into.
Note that the IE crate engine uses the same thrust washer design, although the material may be different.
VFC is right that metallurgy could be a factor but the true issue is the design. Most engines and most historical VW engines have four half face thrust washers - an upper washer and lower washer on either side of the center crank bearing. Since about 2006 VW has only used the upper halves on their engines to reduce cost and emissions. If he gets a new or rebuilt engine, he needs to get the lower center cap machined to accept thrust washers so he'll have four instead of two. Maybe VFC can figure out how to do it, but there's a shop in Ontario called Foreign Automotive that's known to do it well.
The catch is, all IE Gen 3 Short Blocks require an existing healthy core block and crankshaft to be sent in for the build
@@DenisDamulira23 Easy enough to find on copart...Wrecked GTIs are a dime a dozen.
IE crate motors will require beefier K04 turbo, upgraded intercooler as well to handle that power. This is the problem with modifying w/o tracking a car. Contact a Charles in NC (youtube channel Humble Mechanic) who was a VW tech for years. Partners w/ Paul at Deutsche Auto Parts. he can provide tons of advice related to mods. Where I get my parts for the GLI from that I track
To all the people recommending he buys a new car: what should he do to the golf? Sell it fixed or unfixed?
I think the initial deciding factor here is whether you want to keep the car or not Jason. If yes, the next factor is do you want it stock or modded?
If you don’t want to keep the car, should you fix it before getting rid of it or not?
In my humble personal opinion: if you keep it go the performance build route. If you decide to get rid of the car compare it’s value before and after fixing it and go with the higher value route.
Have a nice day, and don’t worry bro we’ve all been down the “modification” road! The great news is that every problem has a solution.
So sorry to hear this man. If it adds any meaning to your pain, your experience is probably going to encourage a lot of people to really think about what they do to their cars.
I want to thank you guys for this full disclosure experience you're sharing. I'm doing similar things on the platform and wonder about this exact scenario and to see the process.
Take it from a MK2,MK6, GTI owner and lover. These cars Depreciate so fast in value it would be crazy to spend that much on a engine. If it was me I would put it back together broken but moving on it’s own power. Roll it over to Car supplies warehouse and use it as a demo vehicle for products and do’s/don’t for car detailing. If you go back to the repair shop please ask them if this same thing would’ve happen on a DSG transmission ? I had APR stage 1 on a DSG and beat the Holy Hell out of it with no issues. Wonder if I dodge a bullet ? Good luck with whatever you do. !
That’s a very expensive demo, the car is still worth money. This is a non issue for the DSG, the upgraded clutch was too much for the stock thrust bearing.
Usually DSGs fail fast when you start pushing the power, all the internals are really well calculated and designed for the specific power it comes with from factory.
Mk7's went up in value since the 8 is shit lol my 7 went up 3 grand after they released the 8 photos. Idk never experience this before and had an mk5 and 6....we will see
@@ALIENdrifter66 Don't know where you're hearing this...DSGs are vastly over-engineered and respond incredibly well to tuning and power bumps. Many people are actually swapping DSGs into big turbo builds for their fast shift times, look it up! From my own experience, I had an early MK5 GTI with the early DSG (which were actually more prone to failure than newer ones). Yet tuned from 70K miles and stage 3+ from 100K miles, the car ran to 200K with no issues, on the original clutch packs! Finally sold to a friend and it's still going strong.
He should put it back to stock, reset any codes, trade it in and be done with it. Why build a car like this. When you could put the extra cash towards an r
IF? You wanna keep it? Go to Integrated Engineering & get a remanufactured performance engine?
was exactly what i was thinking.
I read so many horror stories about manuals and the crankshaft, glad I decided on the dsg
Performance all the way. Take all the mods to the next level then take it to all the shows to show off the car and the amazing detailing work you guys do! Then put it through the books! Winner winner chicken dinner!
I feel your pain. Same thing happened to me with my 2015 Gti with 58000 kms (36000 miles). Stage 1 tune and Sachs performance clutch. Not driven hard and regularly serviced. My daily driver. Had big plans for it too. Ended up installing a second hand motor with new flywheel and clutch for $16k Australian dollars ($12k usd). It was off the road for 6 months. The Gti was my dream car. Took 30 years to finally buy one brand new. Got it back 2 weeks ago so still breaking in the clutch. Will most likely keep it for a year or two and Then buy something other than a VAG. Best of luck with your Gti.
I have a 2009 Scirocco 2.0 TSI stage 2 tuned with a Sachs clutch and I'm anxious after reading your comment 😅
I'm glad I got out when the parts that broke on my Volkswagen were under $400. Before I bought one of these TSI motors, I researched them and was overwhelmed with so many engine problems. And I have upgraded clutches without problems on earlier models.
You can't blame VW for not designing a thrust bearing that will withstand a clutch rated for 450+ ft/lbs or torque. It is my understanding the damage is done on startup. You have pressure on the crank end, thus thrust bearing with minimal lube. Key is to be able to start the engine with no pressure on the crank end like a DSG car, coincidentally they don't have crank walk problems.
It is possible too change the coding whit obd11 so u don't have to press the clutch when starting engine.
@@Wolfpack310 This is what's best for MT 2.0 TSI. Code out mandatory clutch press on start-ups.
so what’s the recommendation for max torque with a replaced clutch on this car?
ilir swe🇸🇪 I didnt think that is possible through odb11. Do you have anymore info about this?
Car wasn't right when you purchased it,you actually noticed the slow uptake of power and a slight judder,so why not get back to outlet you purchased it from and at least get some of repair cost out of them. Just a thought from an old Scot.🙂
lol okay. "hey there was a problem when I bought the car that really showed itself after i upgraded the turbo and clutch, can you help you help with the repair costs?..that will go over very well.
Have you ever tried to get a dealer to even pay for air in tires they deflated with it sitting around
Buy a 'Clutch to Start Bypass' removes the need for clutch in when turning the car on, which reduces wear on the thrust washer and other components. Installed it on my Manual VW Scirocco R and is recommended with modified cars/uprated clutches. Seen a few issues exactly the same as this.
Thank you for sharing this information. I wish someone would have told me this when I upgraded the clutch.
I believe you should install that after you get a used engine.
I highly doubt the issue was caused, or significantly worsened, by starting the car with the clutch in. The clutch is going to get put in way more during actual driving.
adminstriator It’s the initial pressure from start up that wears it
@@jayanthonywright7691 How do you know this? I haven't heard anyone else say this.
Damn... That's the problem with going into the "modification rabbit hole"...
I would approach it as you would talking to a potential detailing client... you could do the standard Chicago Auto Pros detail or the $10K detail.
I went through the same dilemma when the transmission of my Jeep Grand Cherokee decided to eat its clutch packs a little over a month out of warranty. Started as an "intermittent loss of power of a few seconds " to bucking like a rodeo horse" when it went. I had three options... new transmission with a full warranty, a rebuilt transmission with a two year warranty or a used transmission with no warranty. I chose the rebuilt transmission.
If you are planning on keeping it for a long time and keeping the mods, then go for the rebuild with the forged internals. You know what you can afford... your biggest problem, though is convincing the lovely Mrs. Otterness to go along with it.
Dude sorry this happened. I bought a brand new manual 17' MK7 3yrs ago and I'm telling you get rid of it. I've not had issues but I'm stock. No engine mods🤦🏽♂️ but crank walk pumps fear in me😧 Volkswagen should be held accountable.
Ive had VW all my life and I love them. If I was in this position, I would put it back to stock, get rid of it and get something else. That price just isn't justifiable unless you're going big power.
In the next video I show why this option will actually cost me more $$ in the end. Plus I did look at other cars and really couldn’t find anything I liked more than the GTI.
Chicago Auto Pros GTI is the best hatch out there now , had a speed 3 back in the day and never had a issue with it loved that car even to today it’s nothing close to what the GTI is , Mazda made it so beefy never had a problem with it and I had a gt3071 turbo in it aswell
@@davidg11134 Nissan 400Z, GR Turbo Corolla Hatch is coming and Mazda 3 Turbo next year. There's hope, but for now, GTI is hard to beat
Maybe you could replace it by a Focus ST or RS. No other than Ford knows how to built a hot hatch. And they are more reliable than VW.
Ralph Ruiters you’re drunk. I’ve been in the focus and the interior is garbage by comparison. The ride quality is awful by comparison. Read any automotive reviews if you want to confirm this. The MK7 is a very reliable platform.
Price analysis to follow!
I currently own a mk6 GTI, 2010 Wolfsburg, manual, and I absolutely love it. No hot hatch can come close to matching the balance of both performance and comfort, with such a premium interior. Especially when well taken care of, as I'm sure yours is.
How incredibly unfortunate this design/manufacturing issue seems to be so common on upgraded clutches on the mk7s. Maybe it will turn into an extended warranty through a class action lawsuit like the whole timing chain tensioner failures of the 2005-2014 engines. Hopefully.
Until then, options are tough. I'm not from your area but did a quick search and it looks like a similar GTIs to yours (not including added value from PPF/Tints/Ceramic Coating/upgrades (if they count, sometimes they don't help used sale) are selling for 15-20k, with I believe similar milage (yours being just over the 60k warranty).
Even the cheapest option is close to half the value on paper.
That said, as you know it's truly a great car to own and drive, and the thought of rebuilding with performance internals to handle it's current power and any future power you would want is very tempting. Knowing it's a fresh engine and you plan to keep it for at least 6-7 years is great.
The difference on paper in rebuilding with performance internals is a difference of ~1500, and you keep all the mods you have. If you Rebuild with stock parts and return to stock, you would have to sell your mods and could recoup some of the cost, but then you lose the performance that you were enjoying.
As a car guy, and enthusiast for the car, it would definitely be worth going the performance route if you rebuild. Definitely.
Now rebuild vs used motor. Close to double to rebuild. Used motor recoups some cost from selling mods, but again lose performance, lose value from having the not-original motor when it comes time to resell, and you lose knowing it's service and vehicle history.
Performance rebuild you would think would actually increase the cars value, but also narrows the target market when you want to sell. It should at least be worth what it is now (before engine issues).
Also consider (depending how revenue from RUclips videos works since it's the company channel but also run by you) that income from these videos can go towards covering costs, as you know (but that will be for whatever option you choose). Not just through ad revenue, but you could also leverage the RUclips channel's reach and presence to get discounts/sponsors from other companies that might have what you need.
I'm going to wind this up as it's far longer than it needs to be and taking up too much of your time if you're still reading.
Options are performance rebuild for 13.5k, used motor for 7.4k, on a car worth 15-20k before these issues. It needs a new engine, so it's either these or you buy a new/used car. If you want to keep it, I think it's worth the extra to go with the performance build. Sure it's more expensive than the used option, but it's new, you can keep it for a long time, and it will be worth much more when you decide to sell. No matter what happens, you need to spend a lot of money, even if you wanted to sell it and get a new car to replace it. You'd still need to get it running to get any kind of decent money for it. Plus, I'm sure you'll love the process, having a one-of-a-kind, a story to tell, with a car you've loved to own.
Again, apologies for the long comment but I wanted to try and put myself in your shoes and see what I would do in your position, I hope it helped ease your mind with the decision you made, as I'm sure it's already been done, no matter what route you took.
Keep up the great content and I look forward to chapter 3!
There's no basis for a class action lawsuit because the manufacturer didn't build an engine to be able to handle an aftermarket part. If this were happening to stock cars in droves (which it definitely is not), then maybe.
Dude that sucks. The engine took a shit in my 2015 GTI casually driving home from work one day. VW replaced the long block and put in a brand new turbo with a build date of March 2019. Covered under warranty thankfully. Total cost: Just under $15k. I paid my warranty deductible and that was that. I was under the impression that the mk7 was the most reliable when I bought it and I was pretty pissed when it happened. Only had 40k miles when it died, has 58k now.
serious note.
the garage guy is atleast not forcing you, and giving honest advice plus time
Seeing that it only happens to manual trans it seems like the ea888 is designed to work well with the DSG, such as the 7/7.5R. VW and other German manufacturers all focus into dual clutches or zf boxes nowadays and manual is just an after thought for enthusiasts.
Yeah my MkV GTi had a cam follower that had worn the camshaft lobe. Cams replacements on it was about 2-3.5k. The dealership I bought the car used went the route of replacing the motor with a used one with similar mileage. They paid 6.5k to get it back on the road. I sold the car after I put another 40k miles on it.
The labor on German cars is unreal btw.
Just paid for a rebuild of my stock mk6 golf r DSG. 7k AUD. 132,000km. Apparently a common problem from what I read with this model.
Figured it was still worth the cost since I bought it really cheap and still sells for a reasonable amount.
I had the same problem with my MK6. I took the easy route and bought a new engine. Then I did the install myself, and it took me two days 6 hours/day. My engine cost me $5000 from VW, and this does not include my salary for the repair.
That rules that you just did it yourself.
If you plan on keeping the car for a while because you actually enjoy driving it, I'd definitely opt for a performance rebuild. Especially if they're going to "future proof" it to handle more power. You'll have a much better peace of mind.
Plus the shop will know exactly how to work on the engine if anything else comes up later. It's like prepaying for full support. That's invaluable.
I feel your pain.... went down this with my 91 eagle talon 4g63 engine. Crankwalk happened and had a rebuilt engine 2000km later it happened again. Had a ACT 2600 clutch in it and it caused the failure. There have been a number of people who have had a similar issue on the mk7 GTIs 6 speeds. If I were you I’d get a good used engine, flash to stock and trade it in ASAP. Unless an upgraded thrust washer exists it will most likely fail again with a upgraded clutch. It’s not worth getting sentimental over a car. Maybe a DSG might be ok.
personally if you feel you cant pay that money at this current moment then just get a different engine and revert it all back to stock (will be better longevity,less stress on the engine which could also be a really good path for you)
Jason take it from a fellow VW owner, the problems happen, but they're so worth it when done right
Is the "rebuild" using stock main and rod bearings? If it was materials failure then it needs to be upgraded materials on the bearings or you will have the same issue.
Jason if you really love the car what I would is to buy a beater car for work and rebuild the engine with performance parts better pistons, block bigger turbo and make a project. I hope it helps buddy looking forward to hear back!
You should talk to The Humble Mechanic (RUclips) he's a VW expert.
Option 1, you have a plan for this car, and you never know whit a used engine how its going to work. Thats not to recommend if you plan to keep the car. If you go whit the new engine Option you still be stuck whit the same problem that is going to break down eventually cause of the setup.
Option one will give you a better engine then the fabric engine and will last for many years plus you will get a good warranty on the engine. And you will always know that your engine is in perfect condition when you are the one that takes care of it frothy start.
If it were an older model I would get rid of the car, but this one I would keep.
Good luck man, just a crazy swede thinking out loud.
Peace ✌
I would go with option two if I wanted to go with a different car, but I looked around and I want to stick with the GTI.
Over here in Europe, VW has lost its name in making reliable cars several years ago. The TSI engines are known for high oil consumption, the timings chains are weak what could end up failing too (again engine failure). I've been there with an Audi A3 (same technics as the VW). It was my most expensive car so far in buying but also in maintenance and repairs obviously. I was heavily disappointed with this. It should be premium stuff, but actually it was worse than almost every other cheaper car brand.
When I was in your place, I would put in a used engine and ditch the GTI. VW and reliability in that Era don't go that well together. Just my 2 cents.
@@ChicagoAutoPros We should know how this car was designed and typically how long Germans people keep their car such as GTI where most Golf were sold. German people only have 3y warranty in engine not 6y like American. After 5 y usuall they buy another one and export it to eastern Europe who can fix things cheapers. Except for Diesel van, they kept them longer because rarely used or use them as hauler for long trips.
Jason, anxiously waiting to hear what the final decision was. Part III coming soon???
It’s a bummer for sure, Jason. Coming from two modded vw’s and now into a s4, there’s a reason Audi’s drivetrain is still stock.
If it were my car, I’d put it to stock and do the used motor route.
You do amazing detailing work. Trade services?
Throw in a used motor, part out the mods, trade it in. I know 2 guys who have had AWFUL luck with their IE crate race motors, wouldn't touch one with a 12ft pole.
I’m glad mine is all stock no mods for me
I would stay that way!
its really upgrading the clutch. crank walk has happened on stock cars too
I dont know if this will help at all but my mate has a mk7 golf gti with an Audi RS3 engine in it.
Its currently running around 700bhp and 780 lb ft of torque. Its blisteringly fast.
Apparently the conversion was relatively easy as much of the specs were the same. They are all VAG cars after all.
Check the pinned thread in the GTI MK7 forum on VW Vortex. You're not alone.
Reach out to Integrated Engineering for a Performance Block.
exactly what i was thinking
What's the point it's gonna be a low up daily.
What year is your gti , this is the second VW I see online that had a problem with the oil pressure .. JB14 had to rebuild his
mk7 so 2015-2017
brenden coviello I hope you get you car running again . I love my mk7.5 I have a 2019 .. I’m a little hesitant to tune it since I’ve seen your video and JB14 but I have a 7 speed dsg
Antonio Mejia did he contact humble
i’m not going over stage 1 unless i get some reassurance
brenden coviello im not sure he’s base out in Newyork City . I would appreciate if you would post another video that goes into detail on why this happened I know your mechanic explained why but seems like Volkswagen has some things they need to fix
Yes, this is one of those hard life decisions. Doing all those mods is exciting and costly, both now and in the future ownership. Never do this again to a daily driver, especially your current daily mileage. So much I can relate to and share.
I would just go for a low mileage used motor for like $2-3k. But be warned, the same problem will quite possibly return if the stock thrust bearings are left in and an upgraded clutch installed.
okay. i’m seriously concerned. i’ve got a mk7.5 2020 currently cobb stage 1. wtf. should i even go stage 2 with a new clutch. this is the first i’ve heard of this. not sure what tune you have but i know out of all the tune options cobb’s always on the conservative side
So it is the aftermarket clutch makers that should have known to upgrade that part on the car?
Is this happening to stock cars?
People need to realize you cant just put stage 2 parts on a stock engine , this is not VWs fault. Within spec those bearings do their job if you drive correctly with proper oil intervals.
Visker was this bearing easy to get to when they upgraded the clutch?
Visker Not necessarily. Mine failed at 67k with the stock clutch and 5k intervals in my possession.
@@eval7952 it's a thrust washer placed between the block and the crankshaft to control end play (back and fourth) so the crank needs to be removed to replace them. Not easy at all. The DSG trans sees this issue a lot less
Bummer dude I feel for you, sucks when it's your pride and joy, will you down spec the clutch if you rebuild?
I suggest you check out Moible one Inc in Glenview. 10+ years of VW Audi experience and very reasonable service. Nice guy named Jason! Best of luck with this
This is a common issue on these cars with manual transmission unfortunately and doesn’t exist on a dsg. Put it back together, go to a vw dealer and ask how much more to upgrade to a dsg golf r instead. This is coming from a vw enthusiast btw. It’s not worth spending $10k on that car.
so when are the next video asbout the gti coming up
I have this very same car but mine is completely stock. Is this going to happen to mine? Or is this because you modded it? I have a 17 with PP and MT.
Stock engines will not have this issue with normal driving. But the engine has all ready been pushed stock to max. Additional modding, tuning on those engines are not recommended.
Kenneth Otterlei thanks! I stay away from modding for this very reason.
I will always laugh at "tuner" cars. Remapping the CPU will not make a car engine immune to driving it at 8K RPM all day.
@@-Kenneth-9161 that is such nonsense. Stage 1 is perfectly safe. You can get an easy 300bhp and 440nm tq and the engine handles it with ease.
Oh man, this conversation seems like a déjà vu to me when I go through the lists for my rotary. I totally feel you brother. Whichever option you pick, im here giving you support, love your content!
Thanks for your support!
I had a mk6 GTI that was stage 3+ for most of it's life and stage 2 for the last 3 years before I sold it. I had the southbend stage 2+ clutch installed on it for years. Sold it with 140,000 miles on it. It was a money pit maintenance wise since i bought it with 109,000 miles on it. I replaced the PCV valve twice and Turbo but other than that engine wise no issues. I don't understand how this can be an issue since the Golf R's have essentially the same engine with a larger turbo, tune, upgraded clutch etc. and have zero issues with the crank bearing. Something just doesn't seem right than a clutch is what caused this. No way. Since then I myself bought a MK7.5 DSG and have had zero issues with reliability. Look into it more and ask the HumbleMechanic for more information on this for sure.
I highly recommend speaking to Mo at the VW Autobarn Evanston. He's a master tech and knows everything about these cars. He's the only tech I trust with my GTI in the Chicago area.
If you really love it, build it and have that thrust washer fixed with upgraded material along with the other common failure points. Then you can really beat on it. If the value of the car and its age is really a problem for you, get it right and trade it.
Had similar problems in my GTi, dumped it, and went to an STi and never looked back.
@@bonerjams2k3 lol 😆
@@bonerjams2k3 Not when you don't do dumb upgrades and call your neighbor with a laptop a "tuner". I've owned 9 Subarus, and guess what, never had an engine fail. So that leads me to believe the owners are the problem.
Thought about it.
Sti's are ancient overpriced turds
As long as the Subaru’s are 2013-present, I don’t think they should be that bad
Sorry about your ride man!
If you plan on keeping the car for the life of it and want to keep upgrading it a performance build Build would be the way to go maybe reach out to some places and do sponsor vids to lower the cost. Best of luck love watching your vids!!
Certified pre owned Audi RS3. More powa baby, AWD, direct and port injection so not the carbon build up you see on DI alone, and the 5cyl are very well built. Granted they are still hefty in price, with all the mods you wanted to do it might not be bad.
would this happen to a DGS car or is it only a concern to a manual with upgraded clutch?
Manual
sounds like you just gave a big heads up to all GTI MK7 owners in US, but i'd consider cheapest option to swap for a used engine, and ditch the GTI (biased as I'm not a VW fan, they are overpriced and under engineered). Might be worth looking at getting a cool/rare Focus RS instead!
This is why you get the TTRS clutch upgrade. ALWAYS go the OEM+ route with VW
I feel for ya and in this spot I would have to say drop it if I were in your shoes. Daily driver means further issues down the road. Buy something fuel efficient ( 60 miles a day...good lord man) and then search for something to play with later. Just my thoughts but best of luck in any decision you make sir! PS new shop closer to home maybe. Lol
Change the clutch to a dual mass flywheel. TTRS clutch and pressure plate. Good enough for stage 2+ with the is38. Otherwise crankwalk will always be knocking on your door. There's plenty of shops who build these motors everyday, but I don't think its the right thing for you because it is a gti, older model and won't be able to put the power down anyways. If it was an R maybe a different story. Just my 2 cents from working on these cars everyday and building a handful of EA888.3 myself
Hate to see this play out this way. I’m a fellow MK7 owner and understand your love for the car. This is your daily car. My advice is to put in a used/remanufactured stock motor, replace with a stock clutch and return to stock power. Doing this will give you a car you can drive reliably for many more years and you will have spent far less than the value of the whole car.
Realistically the car is worth maybe $12,000 on trade. Don’t put the fully rebuilt motor in this car. You’ll never be able to get your money out of it when you consider the mileage you put on.
If you really have the mod bug I’d fix this to the level you are comfortable to pass to the next owner and buy something that is ready for the power you want to throw at it.
Get the R with a DSG.
I went from a '18 GLi and after 1 yr, traded it for a '19 Golf R. I enjoy everyday driving it!!!
Now u know how your customers feel when they get the call from u. That nervous laugh... God luck my brother
Talk to jr14 he had the same problem and took the built motor route and loves it!
I'm at work listening to the video and realized that you and the tech have the same voice 😂 y'all sound exactly the same
Despite the situation your in right now (I really feel your pain), why didn’t the guys who installed the clutch and made the stage 2 inform you about the risks?? I mean it’s a common problem as you already know and they didn’t know about it? That just doesn’t sound professional for me. As well as not checking on how much the car actually has torque and horsepower after the installation (fine tuning etc). Or maybe they did and you just didn’t show us?
I have a gti on my own (DSG) and that’s why I’m a fan of rebuilding the engine but 13 grand seem like a lot to me. I would probably go for a used one or maybe ask some other youtubers like samcrac or legit street cars for help and maybe a cooperation in rebuilding the engine and making some content out of it? Maybe it would be like a win - win situation?
I wish you all the best and hope the car stays in the channel cause it was nice to look how and what is made on a model I actually have ;)
Marcin Sztafrowski I don’t get why u have to change the clutch for? More speed? U seem to know a lot. R all the GTis defective?
Stock clutch cannot handle well all the torque increases from all the upgrades. Stock clutch in those cars was mostly meant to hold stock powers otherwise it wears out quicker. Also i red that single mass flywheels do beat up the engine more than the Dual Mass flywheel which the car runs on initially. So what some people on forums were saying is that running an aftermarket clutch with DMF is safer than SMF clutch. This issue is not very common btw considering how many tuned GTIs are out there.
Mostafa Mougharbel agree on everything but the common thing ;). It is on manuals. The guy from “Bosh Service” actually said the same. If you gonna change the clutch and nothing more, you probably gonna end up with the same issue... or you have luck :)
@@johnny_b2 oh i know it can happen to any GTI, but single mass flywheels do speed up the process and the majority of tuned GTIs actually run SMF because it's much more available than DMF in aftermarket clutches and you got many options and overall cheaper prices. An example would be DKM clutch, the whole kit with the flywheel is 800$ 😁 and it's a good brand and a known clutch. But clutches like Sachs do keep the OEM feel to the clutch which is nicer since no shattering and weird noises coming out of the car.
@@johnny_b2 I am also in a big GTI community with the majority driving manual GTIs too and i have yet to run into someone who has this issue. I actually saw this video through someone posting the video on the group page 😅. The issue can occur in DSG too btw.
Do you really drive 140 miles day! I love it! It's always rare to see people who buy cool cars and actually put real miles on them. I have a long commute also, but for that reason I've been afraid to buy a fun car
Unfortunately yes I do.
@@ChicagoAutoPros nothing unfortunate about that, you probably get to live in a cool area, without the headache of Chicago, and reasonable traffic. And with a cool car, it makes the commute fun!
What year is the The GTI? 2015 are notoorious for crank walk
Damn,I have a 2015 🤦🏽
Are upgraded thrust washers even an option for a rebuild?
Yes
So, what did you decide?
Get Charles from Humble Mechanic a call. I would say get new engine and replace most/all components over to new engine
Just spun a bearing in my CJAA 2.0L mk6 TDI w/ 117,xxx miles. Oil changes were all done at 6k instead of 10k, and I don't over rev the engine. Lost for words, and I need an engine swap now. $$$
I love what a salesman this guy was he easily could have given a solid estimate without the whole hullabaloo
My MKVI gti is currently dead in my drive way. I spun a bearing after losing oil pressure for a few seconds. I rebuilt it with new bearings and a crank. I'm unmodded btw.
Also, the clutch isn't why you lost oil pressure. You spun a bearing from oil pressure loss. The oil pump is chain driven and is manual. So don't beat yourself up thinking a clutch had anything to do with this.
Get DSG. But as an owner of a 07 GTI which had GIAC stage 1, castles downpipe, neuspeed intake, HR RSS coil overs...
I recommend keep it stock
Take it from me, who spent $15k on a rare car rebuild that ended up having to sell for $13k, don't rebuild that engine. Sell it for as much as you can and move on.
Would this happen go a DSG car?
What was a dealership charging you for this work?
So what was the final decision?
Put a recon salvage engine in it, put it back to stock and sell it. Start again with a performance car, modding causes these problems.
Great Cayman, is it yours, Ive got a 2.9.
New car or Golf R sounds perfect. It makes sense.
Is this crank walk?
yes
I have to say, if throw in that used engine and sell it. Golf R would have less problems man.
I have a Golf R and they have the exact same problem. DSG or Manual even on stock clutches.
Gti and Golf R are 85% the same exact car..
@@DMK2nd Golf R DSG does not have the crank walk issue.
So I shouldn’t modify the drivetrain in my GTI then. Got it. Thanks. Just throwing wheels and suspension. $10k is insane and that scares me now.
Or clear codes, put back to stock and trade it in
I would get a used engine, and then do an oil analysis at your first oil change to make sure it is healthy. Stage two clutch shouldn't cause your issues.
I have a Scirroco 2009 manual clutch stage 2 tune and i'm scared daily that this will happen to me. I also have the sound that disappears when I push the clutch in like in his first video.
oh man, that's heart breaking. Is this something a DSG could possibly suffer from? I just bought my first MK7 Golf GTI performance pack with the DSG transmission, been trying to get one for the last 3 years really. I picked it up 11/28/2020, and just ordered a AWE track exhaust for it, no harm in that, but I also plan on going APR stage 1 and intake minimum. This is a little scary O_O I absolutely love my GTI and I intend to keep it for a very long time.
Can't wait to bring my car to you guys in 5 years once I'm done with grad school and can afford a cool car! lol
Sell you mine for 12.5k right now broski
crankwalk is common on the manual mk7s. you have to build the bearings if you upgrade the clutch
it's not common. it's just f.u.d.
Look, honestly look around at performance euro shops and see what they charge for a standard rebuild or different stages if you wanna go a different route. I guarantee you that you'll find a shop that'll do a complete rebuild for way less than 10k-12k. That is a ridiculous price for a rebuild. I understand that people need to make their money, but what you are paying for is for that Volkswagen certified technician name. I guarantee you that you'll find a literal euro performance shop in the Chicago land area that can do it for less.
Not set in stone, but I always say , if you drive these cars normal, and do not alter them with a ton of aftermarket add ons and different tunes, they will usually be pretty reliable.I am not saying you have to baby these cars because people who buy these cars like to drive . But drive them stock and due routine maintenance and 9/10 times they will be pretty reliable .With all the add ons and different tunes you altering the main course of the engine.
I built my 2016 A3 to stage 3 and it was awesome....but I sold it because I knew it was a ticking time bomb of repairs. I loved the car but it just wasn't worth the potential cost if things started going to hell.
The dreaded crank walk seems to be a big problem with these cars.. I have a stage 2 tune with a southbend stage 3 daily clutch and Iam terrified this is going to happen to me.. I love my Mk7 but I feel like Im driving a time bomb now and im really considering selling it now.
That explains the rattle/knock, that stopped when the clutch was pressed in,.
Could be, but that’s not always the case. I have a twin plate clutch and the discs rattle when the clutch pedal isn’t pressed in since the day it was installed.
It's common in Single mass flywheel clutches the rattles and knocks. I would personally run a Dual mass flywheel aftermarket clutch to keep the OEM feel to the clutch.
Put in a used engine from a 2016 or newer which don't have the thrust washer issue. You can keep your mods. Get multiple estimates. Their # seems unusually high.