I appreciate your videos. I am very new to RC a few months in and waiting for HDZero goggles to ship. I have never flown FPV yet. I understand that DJI shares SBUS/RX with the radio RX. I.E. this is why your UART was set to serial RX in betaflight before you turned it off. So I wired my quad up the way my FC (speedybee f7 v3) wanted to be, with serial RX on the same UART where the DJI R2/SBUS meet up. If you want to trace where R2 SBUS goes it simply goes to the intended receiver port of the serial RX as that is how DJI does this. What all instructions that I have found fail to mention is that if you have your RX plugged in where it's intended to be (this will be the case where you have a DJI plug), then you are going to break the functionality of your RX. While you save soldering one wire by taking it to the DJI port, now you are going to have to move your RX to a different UART, and if you had it plugged in, now you will probably have to solder it. I think solder pads are better anyway, but you are also braking the documented setting of the board which could cause confusion later on. I think I would trade my plugs for solder pads anyway. I have too many issues with loose connections and ripping off plugs on GPS unit etc. I almost always have to fire up the soldering iron anyway. My point is, nobody is mentioning this conflict that you are all silently working around. I know you mean well and appreciate your videos.
Thank you for checking it out man!! Yes, you will for sure need to put your RX on a different UART than the one designated as SBUS in the DJI plug. Most people not using the plug for DJI are doing that anyway since they are pulling plug power for whatever VTX they are running as it is the highest rated BEC on the board and having to tap power from another pad for the RX at 5v. Sometimes the SBUS reserved UART is broken out as an RX elsewhere, but not in every case on every F7 FC so usually people wind up on a different UART anyway. With an F7 it isn't too big of a deal since there are plenty of UARTs available and you can just uncheck serial RX on one port and put it on another so nothing breaks at all. On an F4 processor where the SBUS is inverted with hardware, you just can't do this whole thing anyway since you can't software invert the UART so it won't even let you. For the HDZ setup, using both UARTs that already exist in the plug makes the whole thing so much easier since you need two that it is worth just inverting it and pulling another UART for the RX. Also, with FCs like the SB F7 v3, there are plenty of other plugs with other UARTs bundled in them so if someone wanted to do it completely solderless (still gotta solder the other end of the RX most of the time anyway, lol) they totally could. I agree by the way about preferring solder pads. The only thing I really want to ever plug in is the VTX because it makes for a much cleaner install right where my battery strap runs over the FC. I always hate feeling that fuzzy side of the Velcro find a nice juicy bundle of wires when I put it back in place to strap up, lol. You are really going to enjoy those HDZ goggles man!!!
Thank you for putting this up for everyone, I have just set this up with a Kakute F7 AIO HDV with individual esc's in an Armattan Marmotte Frame, VERY tight stack fit, but its all plug and play with the only soldering being the TBS nano and esc's (gps later on), the freestyle is unlocked and all the UART information is in the Kakute manual, so very easy to get it up and running, many thanks!
After your last upload I reinstalled my 1w hdzero and followed your directions. Works really well! Thx for your efforts! This will be a good golf course/park flyer. Unfortunately Im still having to use Dji for the bandos and parking garage style flying. It’ll improve and take over the Dji bracket hopefully sooner than later.
I am glad you got it up and going! I think a park flyer or light freestyle is the perfect fit for HDZero. I am just hoping that at some point low latency digital is able to push out analog and compete at that price point....that is the dream.
Straight-up serving the good content. I have a couple of stack options in line for a ride which might work. I had not considered this option since I always solder my DJI stuff but it would be fun to try something different. Thanks.
Give it a shot! I am usually a solder on guy too, but using the DJI plug for this has got me excited about getting more FCs with it built in. Such a clean install and easy to swap stuff out without busting out the iron!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Definitely. After I wrote the comment, I remembered that I have a SkyStars F7 HD that I want to build out. Allegedly, it has a 10V 3Amp BEC so it should work as long as there is a legit target in BF? I have another rig built on a SkyStars FC and it's fine so I'm hoping this one will hold up to the challenge. I have to use it sometime....lol. I don't want to tear apart a working quad and I really want to start from scratch with this VTX. Thanks again!!
@@originafreerangechicken yup, that will be more than enough power to pump out the full watt with a Freestyle VTX. It does need a valid 4.3 target, and not all of them are currently supported in RC3 but we shall see as it gets closer to final release. I agree, a fresh build is the best build....and then you look up and have 50 drones hanging on the wall, lol.
good info for some...I love to solder..it's part of being a hobbyist..or used to be...honestly..by the time you get done fiddling with those pins you could have made the 5 soldered connections and 1/2 way through a sandwich..
lol, so true. I grew up soldering and making PCB's by hand, so i too enjoy the smell of flux boiling in the morning...or evening. What I do like about this is how easy it makes swapping the FC when you feel like it, and it looks like a big trend lately in the FC market is the addition of plugs. I also think it was pretty awesome of the BF devs to implement pin swap in 4.3. Can't tell you how many times I got the whole quad together only to find out I inverted a TX/RX and had to tear back into it so i could swap the wires, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV liking BF 4.3 ..just used the motor reorder feature for a Banggod where I rotated the esc....a couple button pushes instead of doing a dump and figuring out what goes where...no more need to go into bl_heli to change motor direction either...good times ...👍🏼
@@steve_beatty oh man, that feature is killer for sure. I did the same thing with a rotated ESC in my Manta since the top plate is designed with the battery lead pass through on the front and it was a huge time saver compared to remapping and BLheli32 direction changes. I am happy that I had to learn how to do it a more difficult way before 4.3, but im glad to see it replaced with a much easier method, lol.
Thank you! Thought some people may not want to solder it up so they can do easy swaps and use all of the things already inside of the DJI plug rather than soldering to their break outs.
Hey Bacon Ninja, Thanks for everything. I am busy building my first HDZEro Freestyle quad. I want to do this wiring harness mod. but in the video, you mention that the FC has to have a F7 processor...(Why?) All I have is a Speedybee F405 V4 Stack. Can it still work..?
So technically yes, the F4 limit from this vid does still exist in that you cannot remap a UART pad on the F4 processor....buuuuut, good news is you no longer need to in order to do this port mod! In BF 4.4 they implemented MSP VTX control, so now you can just wire up the power wires and first UART wires in the plug while leaving smart audio completely out of the harness. I have a video on how to get that done as well :) ruclips.net/video/-el0OhdBhU4/видео.html
im not sure that using SA in BetaFlight to set that will stick after a power cycle, but i suppose it may be possible. It "should" also be possible to use the HDZ stick menu even on iNav over a uart to set it without having to hook it up to a BF FC first. You can find those on page 15 of the VTX manual HDZ has on their download site.
sure!! I like the Lumineer AxII v2 button style antennas for mine. For a little better range you can get one with a stalk to get up above the battery and they work really well. I also like their newer AxII micro ones, but they seem to have a little less gain.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thanks for the fast reply! I may see how I go with the HDzero antenna first up, I hope I dont rip the UFL connector off though when I go to change it over LOL.
@@homersez no problem at all!! Yeah the HDZ antenna really isnt too bad, it just has a tendency to crack the casing in hard crashes. What I do for the ufl is carefully remove the retention plate and get a fine pair of needle nose in there so that I can pull from the top directly while I gently twist 20ish degrees in each direction on the flat plane.
I can't say I have ever seen a Tiptoe flight controller before. Do you happen to mean TMotor? If so, that FC does have a 10v 2A BEC so it should be good to go for this!
Great video, Ordered my HDZero Googles, a VTX and Camera yesterday. Just waiting for the delivery.
It is a great system!! Hopefully they don't keep you waiting for that delivery too long. I know those first couple of batches were one heck of a wait.
I'm just about to make one .I just made my 3 inch and the motor lasted 30-45seconds .I didn't even get to crash it :( love ya brother ❤️
I appreciate your videos. I am very new to RC a few months in and waiting for HDZero goggles to ship. I have never flown FPV yet.
I understand that DJI shares SBUS/RX with the radio RX. I.E. this is why your UART was set to serial RX in betaflight before you turned it off.
So I wired my quad up the way my FC (speedybee f7 v3) wanted to be, with serial RX on the same UART where the DJI R2/SBUS meet up. If you want to trace where R2 SBUS goes it simply goes to the intended receiver port of the serial RX as that is how DJI does this. What all instructions that I have found fail to mention is that if you have your RX plugged in where it's intended to be (this will be the case where you have a DJI plug), then you are going to break the functionality of your RX. While you save soldering one wire by taking it to the DJI port, now you are going to have to move your RX to a different UART, and if you had it plugged in, now you will probably have to solder it. I think solder pads are better anyway, but you are also braking the documented setting of the board which could cause confusion later on.
I think I would trade my plugs for solder pads anyway. I have too many issues with loose connections and ripping off plugs on GPS unit etc. I almost always have to fire up the soldering iron anyway. My point is, nobody is mentioning this conflict that you are all silently working around. I know you mean well and appreciate your videos.
Thank you for checking it out man!! Yes, you will for sure need to put your RX on a different UART than the one designated as SBUS in the DJI plug. Most people not using the plug for DJI are doing that anyway since they are pulling plug power for whatever VTX they are running as it is the highest rated BEC on the board and having to tap power from another pad for the RX at 5v. Sometimes the SBUS reserved UART is broken out as an RX elsewhere, but not in every case on every F7 FC so usually people wind up on a different UART anyway. With an F7 it isn't too big of a deal since there are plenty of UARTs available and you can just uncheck serial RX on one port and put it on another so nothing breaks at all. On an F4 processor where the SBUS is inverted with hardware, you just can't do this whole thing anyway since you can't software invert the UART so it won't even let you. For the HDZ setup, using both UARTs that already exist in the plug makes the whole thing so much easier since you need two that it is worth just inverting it and pulling another UART for the RX. Also, with FCs like the SB F7 v3, there are plenty of other plugs with other UARTs bundled in them so if someone wanted to do it completely solderless (still gotta solder the other end of the RX most of the time anyway, lol) they totally could. I agree by the way about preferring solder pads. The only thing I really want to ever plug in is the VTX because it makes for a much cleaner install right where my battery strap runs over the FC. I always hate feeling that fuzzy side of the Velcro find a nice juicy bundle of wires when I put it back in place to strap up, lol. You are really going to enjoy those HDZ goggles man!!!
Perfect that i search about the explanation why we need to invert the rx and tx on the sbus.
Merci Mec !
I am glad i could help sort it out for you!
Thank you for putting this up for everyone, I have just set this up with a Kakute F7 AIO HDV with individual esc's in an Armattan Marmotte Frame, VERY tight stack fit, but its all plug and play with the only soldering being the TBS nano and esc's (gps later on), the freestyle is unlocked and all the UART information is in the Kakute manual, so very easy to get it up and running, many thanks!
You are very welcome!! The solderless installation makes it so much cleaner and it is my go-to method now for building out an HDZero quad.
After your last upload I reinstalled my 1w hdzero and followed your directions. Works really well! Thx for your efforts! This will be a good golf course/park flyer. Unfortunately Im still having to use Dji for the bandos and parking garage style flying. It’ll improve and take over the Dji bracket hopefully sooner than later.
I am glad you got it up and going! I think a park flyer or light freestyle is the perfect fit for HDZero. I am just hoping that at some point low latency digital is able to push out analog and compete at that price point....that is the dream.
Straight-up serving the good content. I have a couple of stack options in line for a ride which might work. I had not considered this option since I always solder my DJI stuff but it would be fun to try something different. Thanks.
Give it a shot! I am usually a solder on guy too, but using the DJI plug for this has got me excited about getting more FCs with it built in. Such a clean install and easy to swap stuff out without busting out the iron!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Definitely. After I wrote the comment, I remembered that I have a SkyStars F7 HD that I want to build out. Allegedly, it has a 10V 3Amp BEC so it should work as long as there is a legit target in BF? I have another rig built on a SkyStars FC and it's fine so I'm hoping this one will hold up to the challenge. I have to use it sometime....lol. I don't want to tear apart a working quad and I really want to start from scratch with this VTX. Thanks again!!
@@originafreerangechicken yup, that will be more than enough power to pump out the full watt with a Freestyle VTX. It does need a valid 4.3 target, and not all of them are currently supported in RC3 but we shall see as it gets closer to final release. I agree, a fresh build is the best build....and then you look up and have 50 drones hanging on the wall, lol.
good info for some...I love to solder..it's part of being a hobbyist..or used to be...honestly..by the time you get done fiddling with those pins you could have made the 5 soldered connections and 1/2 way through a sandwich..
lol, so true. I grew up soldering and making PCB's by hand, so i too enjoy the smell of flux boiling in the morning...or evening. What I do like about this is how easy it makes swapping the FC when you feel like it, and it looks like a big trend lately in the FC market is the addition of plugs. I also think it was pretty awesome of the BF devs to implement pin swap in 4.3. Can't tell you how many times I got the whole quad together only to find out I inverted a TX/RX and had to tear back into it so i could swap the wires, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV liking BF 4.3 ..just used the motor reorder feature for a Banggod where I rotated the esc....a couple button pushes instead of doing a dump and figuring out what goes where...no more need to go into bl_heli to change motor direction either...good times ...👍🏼
@@steve_beatty oh man, that feature is killer for sure. I did the same thing with a rotated ESC in my Manta since the top plate is designed with the battery lead pass through on the front and it was a huge time saver compared to remapping and BLheli32 direction changes. I am happy that I had to learn how to do it a more difficult way before 4.3, but im glad to see it replaced with a much easier method, lol.
Yes great video thank 😊
Thank you for checking it out!
Really helpful tutorial. Thanks!
My pleasure! Just hope some people can get some use out of it for a super clean install on this great little (not really so little) VTX.
Good work and info!
Thank you! Thought some people may not want to solder it up so they can do easy swaps and use all of the things already inside of the DJI plug rather than soldering to their break outs.
Great info man, you def earned a like and a sub from me
Thank you so much for watching! I really appreciate that man, and hopefully this tutorial helps a little if you ever need to use any of it!
Hey Bacon Ninja, Thanks for everything. I am busy building my first HDZEro Freestyle quad. I want to do this wiring harness mod. but in the video, you mention that the FC has to have a F7 processor...(Why?) All I have is a Speedybee F405 V4 Stack. Can it still work..?
guess what I'm asking is ..: does the F4 limitation describe in this video still exist when using Beta flight 4.4.1...?
So technically yes, the F4 limit from this vid does still exist in that you cannot remap a UART pad on the F4 processor....buuuuut, good news is you no longer need to in order to do this port mod! In BF 4.4 they implemented MSP VTX control, so now you can just wire up the power wires and first UART wires in the plug while leaving smart audio completely out of the harness. I have a video on how to get that done as well :) ruclips.net/video/-el0OhdBhU4/видео.html
@@BaconNinjaFPV Super...thanks... 🙂
was wondering if i can do the switch in betaflight , then flash inav , will it stay the same ?
im not sure that using SA in BetaFlight to set that will stick after a power cycle, but i suppose it may be possible. It "should" also be possible to use the HDZ stick menu even on iNav over a uart to set it without having to hook it up to a BF FC first. You can find those on page 15 of the VTX manual HDZ has on their download site.
May I ask what antenna you are using for your Freestyle VTX?
sure!! I like the Lumineer AxII v2 button style antennas for mine. For a little better range you can get one with a stalk to get up above the battery and they work really well. I also like their newer AxII micro ones, but they seem to have a little less gain.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thanks for the fast reply! I may see how I go with the HDzero antenna first up, I hope I dont rip the UFL connector off though when I go to change it over LOL.
@@homersez no problem at all!! Yeah the HDZ antenna really isnt too bad, it just has a tendency to crack the casing in hard crashes. What I do for the ufl is carefully remove the retention plate and get a fine pair of needle nose in there so that I can pull from the top directly while I gently twist 20ish degrees in each direction on the flat plane.
Tiptoe f7 HD work ?
I can't say I have ever seen a Tiptoe flight controller before. Do you happen to mean TMotor? If so, that FC does have a 10v 2A BEC so it should be good to go for this!
I'm gonna cry. This doesn't work :( still says smart audio undefined
Who wants to make one of these for me? $5😂
You might look into MSP VTX control now that HDZero has integrated that with Betaflight 4.4! It makes this whole thing sooooo much easier :)
ᴘʀᴏᴍᴏsᴍ