$1,300 Garage Door Insulation Mistake! - watch this before you diy
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Watch until the end so you don’t make the same mistake I did. I am happy to answer any questions in the comments. If I missed anything feel free to chime in to help others.
Thank you for watching, please subscribe, and God bless you!
I think they "saw you coming". I added foam to my double garage door, then called my local garage door installed/repair company. They came out and adjusted the springs a little tighter, and I'm good to go. No issues. They just wanted to sell you a new door. Sorry to hear you got ripped off to the tune of a new door. That's just a simple spring adjustment to compensate for the minor extra weight.
You’re probably right. Good to know there is a simple fix. How much did you pay for your spring adjustment? Where are you located?
@@taylorstools777I insulated mine and called the man to adjust the springs check the whole operation of the door for $89. My roll up door is 35 years old and still working great.
Also use a utility knife of something not serrated.
They saw you coming.
In my area complete pair of new springs and adjustment is only $329.00 if needed.
I got a Wayne dalton door they are trash to find parts. I converted mine to spring vs the tension Rod. No more issues. I used the bubble mailer type reflective. It’s helped by dropping temp by 10 degrees. I may do the foam now. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for sharing this information. ✅
Happy to! Thank you for watching!
Thank you for sharing your experience. I run into this issue quiet often. And the outcome is almost always the same. Any alteration to a garage door will effect the balance. What happens when you apply the insulation it changes the density to the door. It’s a glass of water without ice. When you add ice the water density changes, in some cases overflowing. Thus the Torquemaster springs designed for your door have to compensate for that change. Your new door looks great! I hope it all works out!
Thank you for your comment! So far so good!
Hogwash! If you're REALLY a garage door company, you KNOW that a simple adjustment of the spring(s) is all it takes to "compensate". You're just like the crooked company that sold this trusting customer something he didn't need.
I added insulation to my garage door and the spring wasn’t strong enough. I had the spring replaced for 600 extra dollars. Much cheaper than a door.
The cutting edge of the bread knife is serrated, and this causes the Styrofoam to shred as you make the cuts. A straight edge knife will make cleaner cuts way less shredding.
Where were you when I was doing this! Haha thank you
Two rods to turn spring one or two more times. Alot cheaper.
Can you elaborate? Open to learning
@@taylorstools777 Apply more preload to the springs, tension them more to make up for the weight increase.
torque master torsion systems suck anyway
EXACTLY what I had done after I added foam to my garage door. Works GREAT. That's the problem with blindly trusting companies these days. Too many just want to rip you off.
Not the correct solution. Adding turns to any spring system merely changes where the tension applies on the door. Adding rotations would be the same as changing the HEIGHT of the door, not the WEIGHT. There are multiple factors such as the track setup and style of drums used in the spring line that go in to weight of springs. A standard radius 7 foot tall door will, in the case of a torque master spring like this, require 7 total revolutions on each side of the spring. Turn that spring up to 8 turns each side because you added weight, now all of a sudden instead of a neutral (unwound) spring when the door is open…. Your door is under a full wind of the spring. That can cause the cables to lose tension and jump off the drums which will make the door “rack” the next time that door moves. Never assume that adding foam won’t affect the operation of the door because it’s “not that much weight”. Trust your garage door technicians, we sell new springs in these cases because we know we’ll be back if you don’t take our advice.
It seems highly unlikely that the extra weight from the foam boards was enough to stop the opener from lifting the door. It is tru that the springs are normally adjusted such that the they support the weight of the door and should be adjusted if something happens that changes that weight. However, if the spring adjustment is off a little, it just makes the opener motor work a little harder and maybe the motor wears out a little faster.
I noticed that your foam boards were getting pretty close to your door tracks and I wonder if the foam started dragging against the tracks as the door went up. Maybe that's what jammed the door.
As for the reflective barrier: People are correct that if you want to keep heat out of the garage , then you want the reflective barrier facing to the outside. However: the reflective barrier won't work if it is contact with the garage door skin. There needs to be an air gap between the door skin and the reflective barrier. With the reflective barrier facing the inside of the garage it might help keep heat in just a little for the winter months.
I totally agree that the garage door company you used quoted you an insanely high price to adjust your spring tension. As someone else posted: The best thing I can say is that it was the "go away" price. Meaning the small job isn't worth their time but if you're willing to pay this much we'll do it. It may also have been a way to sell you a garage door or some other service that they can make money on. Tensioning the spring is a ten minute job with zero material cost. It is true that garage door springs can be very dangerous to mess with if you don't know what you are doing. There is a LOT of energy stored in a pretensioned spring of that size. It can do great bodily harm if you release that energy the wrong way.
The start up music is glaringly harsh. Info is good. Thanks.
I still have much to learn about video production that is for sure. Thank you for the feedback and for watching!
Why not some industrial 2 sided tape vs liquid nails? Siga also makes a tape that will stick to anything.
I watched other videos. I wondered about this issue myself. I was torn between insulating my 20 year old doors that are a bit beat up vrs new insulated doors. I think you just helped me a kid a costly mistake. Bad for you. But you saved at least one other guy the pain. Great video. Just one thing. Some adhesives will eventually eat foam boards. Check the label to ensure it's compatible.
So glad I could help! I almost didn't post this video. What route do you think you will go now that you have watched the video?
@@taylorstools777 I have 2 doors with 2 closers. Last week the one closer ate the plastic gears. They are pressed in. Also sears branded and chain drive. I can't even find the model on the internet. Now I'm facing 2 new insulated doors and 2 belt drive closers. So now I'm saving up
@@taylorstools777 Not sure who is balancing your doors but he is ripping you off. I insulated 4 doors and they are much bigger than the door that you have. The tech balanced all 4 doors and weighed them to make sure my openers would handle the weight. Openers have plenty of power, springs were adjusted, and all of the springs checked out just fine for the added weight. Service call $75.00 and labor $150.00. Doors look good with the insulation at a small fraction of the cost for new doors. If anyone has good doors and can install the insulation so that it looks nice, they would be crazy to spend the money on new doors.
Pretty sure the cost to have the springs replaced was their “go away” price. I had my springs done for no more than $400 and a tip
Wow thanks for sharing! I should have gotten more than one quote on the springs!
AND, they could have simply tightened the springs to accomplish the same thing.
IIRC the springs are color coded for weight. Adjusting the springs will work up to a certain weight. Beyond that and you have to go to the next stiffer springs.
Something to note, aside from the weight/spring adjustment thing, is that you installed the foam panels backwards. The reflective side should be pointed toward the radiant heat source, which is the sun-baked outside surface of the door. The reflective side, therefore, should be against the door panels, and the label side should be facing the interior of the garage.
Thank you!
The correct installation depends on your climate and whether your priority is to keep the garage warmer or cooler.
Thanks for making this video. One garage door installer cautioned about the added weight. I don’t understand how a couple sheets of styrofoam could cause the opener to pause??
I thought it was strange too! Apparently it has to do with the springs that help lift the door. They are “balanced” to the specific weight of your door.
The springs need to be torqued a bit tighter to help the motor lift. That's all.
I am in Columbus, Ohio too. My door is vinyl or fiberglass or, (not metal or wood). I am concerned about the door expanding & contracting with the weather. That would cause the glue to break loose. What do you think?
I think it is possible depending what glue you use. I’m really not an expert on this. Maybe someone else can chime in for us??
You sadly got taken on the door, the springs should have ben able to be adjusted just fine. Your video is the first one I've seen of someone doing a Wayne Dalton garage door like mine which was nice to see.
The springs could have been adjusted but the cost I was quoted was only a few hundred less than the cost of a new door so I thought why not haha. Good luck!
I have a Wayne Dalton door too. Before the new door how long was the insulation up? Did the glue hold?
@@DennisDolan-fl3mw I'm not the OP. But I installed this a couple of weeks ago and it's going strong. I applied a liberal amount of liqued nail fuze it and had pressure applied to the panels for 24 hours.
@@DennisDolan-fl3mw sorry for my delayed response. Mine is still holding up strong! I put it on early summer and nothing has fallen off or come loose to my knowledge.
Why did you put the aluminum side to the inside? Is there a reason? Can it go the other way? Is one way better?
I’m not sure. Can anyone else chime in??
Aluminum is reflective.
My smart buddy who is a scientist explained it like this: "Face it inside for cold climate regions in order to keep heat/warmth in the garage during the winter when using a heater. Thus, reflecting the heat inside. VS Facing it out to reflect heat of the summer sun away for warm/hot climate regions. Thus, keeping the garage cooler."
Personally, I don't like being cold when working in my garage during the winter (below freezing), so I faced mine inwards.
I hope that makes sense.
Living in San Diego and wanting to keep the heat OUT, I put my panels on the wooden garage door with the “shiny side” against the door (opposite of the way you did it). Did I do this wrong?
I think you did it right. I believe I was doing it wrong
I have those shoes..
Nice!
Adjusting the springs is so easy to do with a $20 tool
Paul tell us more! The rep I talked to made it seem dangerous or like you need a degree haha
I don't remember if a spring broke or a cable but whatever it was I had to rewind a spring. I bought the spring winders and while it was a bit of an anal pucker moment it went fine, easy to do and the door worked perfect again.
I love it when a plan comes together
Lol
Thanks for watching haha
When betas do home projects.
Helpful comment. Thanks!
i think they just want to sell you a new garage door. styrofoam does not really put too much weight on the door. You can just tight the spring to get more tension. sorry to hear that. I would help if I live near by you.
I appreciate the thought haha. If I knew how to tighten the springs I would have tried to myself.