The thumb-nail picture of the batteries on the pallet i love it. I imagined them on my 1994 chevy 2door full size blazer. There is plenty of space everywhere. Got to love the obs chevys
NICE video. Battery maintenance and BMS boards are more technical. Besides, for the BMS, it also has smart version that allows you to view the detailed parameter information of the battery pack through your phone or computer, which is also very convenient.
I find it fascinating what your doing. I just wonder how you can maintain your business safety with all these thousands of batteries of various origins and various unknown states.
We have a few simple safety rules. Mostly we don’t charge batteries unattended and we monitor with thermal camera, whatever heats up we set aside for recycling.
Cool, replacing the BMS is a great solution for the proprietary ones that require CAN communication etc. I would be super careful with the temps here -- 60C on the cells was measured after discharge stopped, and 60C is the max safe operating limit for these types of cells (can confirm on any datasheet; reality is that above 60C the cell capacity can permanently degrade). BMS is right next to the cells and measured 107C -- this seems like an unnecessary risk to have near the cells. An NMC cell around ~110C starts to risk electrolyte leakage = no bueno. Keep up the hacking!
60 is not max safe discharge. Many datasheets cite 80 or even 85. I personally don't like going over 60 and will cut it off if anything hits 70. BMS should be separated by a sheet of epoxy resin board always Edit: oh dear lord these are LG M26's some of the worst cells in recent history. Avoid like the plague. An extra $40 is so worth it for MH1's or better
60c the party is just getting started lol. I mean, if your trying to maintain a home battery or something that is one thing. But if I’m powering a bike/ mskateboard/drone/etc.. it’s gunna be pushed beyond that likely right away.i find improper storage or in general.. neglect… that seems to wack cells with the most authority lol. That’s why old stock and warehouse funds aren’t too exciting to me
Can you please explain how to setup the tie grid inverter. I have a 1000 watt tie grid inverter like yours not in use and i would like to use it for testing like you do. Thanks
I was wondering about that a few weeks ago ... i found the batteries for my IMiEV online for swapping the old ones but not sure if the BMS is lock for the new batteries.
I know for myself its a confidence issue when it comes to the DIY aspect of your projects. I bought one of your $400 Boston Swing batteries. I felt confident on the purchase but once I started buying all the components to assemble, my confidence deflated... I still havent placed a charge on battery. In the end I was defeated by trying to make an XT30 cable for a charge controller. I had a friend who has soldering experience try to help me make a cable and he was having issues with his soldering equipment. My hang up is on the fact if I mess up I just threw away $470+ on a project. I wish you had a cheap soldering project so I can learn, practice, and build my confidence without risking a $400 battery....completely my fault in the end.
With thick wires I use a hot air station to heat up the wires/mass of metal then use the soldering iron to bring the solder to melting point. Other ways to approach it is to tin booth surfaces that you are going to solder together. You can also try different types of Rosin Core Solder, the best and easiest one to work with is the 60/40.
Cut out from voltage sag but man those cells get hot for such a low load? 6P and under 30 amps total load is like 5A per cell? Regardless price is excellent anyways. Thank you for your services!
Is there a temperature sensor on the bms? You say the BLS might have cut off because of a hot cell but I don't see any sensors, maybe I missed it? Are those 18650 F1L cells? They are known to suck at anything over 0.3C
I think 🤔 you can connect the data connectors the green and red go to the outgoing positive wire on the battery and the whight and black connect with the negative outgoing wire on the battery. They also allow to charge when connected in this way! I think the four wires your looking for should say data+, and data-, or data R, data X, on some or data Y,. Try using a multimeter to help you!!!👻
Hi, so if i do purchase the battery, will you provide the bms in the video if I choose the drop down box tested working , with cables ? i just would like clarity on it please and thank you.
How much for one tested, with cables you take off and put on for me on a Ninebot Max G30P, so I can just plug n play I'm on disability up here in Canada and they dont give us money to live like US disability does, no food stamps or extra benefits really So I have to ask someone to buy this for me, and if it doesnt work they wont help me again if they think I'm wasting their money So what ya think my man?
Remember, The battery pack is cooled by air moving across it while bicycle is moving...! Setting it on the bench with no air moving across it, from a fan is asking for real trouble. Watching the thermo footage gave me a scare, I was hoping for your sake it didn't ignite into a fire, so please be careful. As well the OEM battery management board has a possibility of a Controller reset. I've been coding since 1972, many different computer designs including the latest line of devices. Without seeing one of these battery packs management boards up close and personal, I can't help you get into it and reset the cutoff date clock, that kills the battery off, due to life expectancy safety precautions. You don't want them blowing up in a firebox between you're legs while on the Golden Gate Bridge. I have a Felton Volkswagen Rabbit conversion. But I use 8 12volt MK brand Gel battery packs, for my 96 volt pack, my motor is rated 120 HP at 120VDC, max. Send me a link, trade programing hack for a couple of those packs. I know the guys at at EV West. Fan Power for cooling... always
That BMS is not good enough for how hard its being pushed, 107c is way out of spec and is not safe. 80c is the most you really want, and that's on a good well known one. but some off the shelf one running at 107+c is bad and dangerous. Just for you all that don't know, 107c is 224f and water boils at 200f. P.S. Solder will start to get soft around 90c (depending on the solder)
I’m testing peak performance, what do you recommend? Using a bigger one so we can cook the cells? Cells are barely hanging on at a load of 27A, they were 60c
@@jehugarcia lol Well no I wasn't implying to cook the cells, I should have worded it differently. Sorry about that. What I meant is some people out there "that didn't know better" if ran at full tilt like this, would be dangerous , and I'm surprised the BMS did not cut off at a safe temp. (ie 80-90c). (would help save the cells that were running at their limit of 60c) I was not criticizing your testing methods at all, or at least did not mean to.
@@jehugarcia yeah I bought some of them a few months ago but I have a controller that can run on 60v max but the ideal is 48/52 volts. I was thinking on the 72v option but I would have to upgrade the controller
If only we could go to a local shop and buy a lithium cell like we buy a AA battery. Everything about lithium remains a trade secret and restricted to a few corporations. 😮💨
The thumb-nail picture of the batteries on the pallet i love it. I imagined them on my 1994 chevy 2door full size blazer. There is plenty of space everywhere. Got to love the obs chevys
NICE video. Battery maintenance and BMS boards are more technical. Besides, for the BMS, it also has smart version that allows you to view the detailed parameter information of the battery pack through your phone or computer, which is also very convenient.
I find it fascinating what your doing. I just wonder how you can maintain your business safety with all these thousands of batteries of various origins and various unknown states.
We have a few simple safety rules. Mostly we don’t charge batteries unattended and we monitor with thermal camera, whatever heats up we set aside for recycling.
Cool, replacing the BMS is a great solution for the proprietary ones that require CAN communication etc.
I would be super careful with the temps here -- 60C on the cells was measured after discharge stopped, and 60C is the max safe operating limit for these types of cells (can confirm on any datasheet; reality is that above 60C the cell capacity can permanently degrade). BMS is right next to the cells and measured 107C -- this seems like an unnecessary risk to have near the cells. An NMC cell around ~110C starts to risk electrolyte leakage = no bueno.
Keep up the hacking!
60 is not max safe discharge. Many datasheets cite 80 or even 85. I personally don't like going over 60 and will cut it off if anything hits 70. BMS should be separated by a sheet of epoxy resin board always
Edit: oh dear lord these are LG M26's some of the worst cells in recent history. Avoid like the plague. An extra $40 is so worth it for MH1's or better
60c the party is just getting started lol. I mean, if your trying to maintain a home battery or something that is one thing. But if I’m powering a bike/ mskateboard/drone/etc.. it’s gunna be pushed beyond that likely right away.i find improper storage or in general.. neglect… that seems to wack cells with the most authority lol. That’s why old stock and warehouse funds aren’t too exciting to me
Can you please explain how to setup the tie grid inverter. I have a 1000 watt tie grid inverter like yours not in use and i would like to use it for testing like you do. Thanks
Nice case holders for the batteries.
I was wondering about that a few weeks ago ... i found the batteries for my IMiEV online for swapping the old ones but not sure if the BMS is lock for the new batteries.
I know for myself its a confidence issue when it comes to the DIY aspect of your projects. I bought one of your $400 Boston Swing batteries. I felt confident on the purchase but once I started buying all the components to assemble, my confidence deflated... I still havent placed a charge on battery. In the end I was defeated by trying to make an XT30 cable for a charge controller. I had a friend who has soldering experience try to help me make a cable and he was having issues with his soldering equipment. My hang up is on the fact if I mess up I just threw away $470+ on a project. I wish you had a cheap soldering project so I can learn, practice, and build my confidence without risking a $400 battery....completely my fault in the end.
if you want soldering practice pick up a little electronics diy kit like an alarm clock or radio or led project . relatively cheap to practice with
With thick wires I use a hot air station to heat up the wires/mass of metal then use the soldering iron to bring the solder to melting point. Other ways to approach it is to tin booth surfaces that you are going to solder together. You can also try different types of Rosin Core Solder, the best and easiest one to work with is the 60/40.
Let me know or let us know when the bms boards will be available. I want to purchase Jehu's idea👻
Cut out from voltage sag but man those cells get hot for such a low load? 6P and under 30 amps total load is like 5A per cell?
Regardless price is excellent anyways. Thank you for your services!
I have the same battery and I know how to get around the lock without removing or bypassing the bms
Awesome , Show us how to do it
Do you mean to flash custom firmware via ST-link?
Is it legal to use a plug-in grid tie inverter like that in California? If so, what model is that?
Is there a temperature sensor on the bms? You say the BLS might have cut off because of a hot cell but I don't see any sensors, maybe I missed it? Are those 18650 F1L cells? They are known to suck at anything over 0.3C
yes there's a sensor on the cells, these are LG 18650M26 cells they can do 2C max
You can use one 30A BMS for two pack's in parallel?
Yes if your load will be less than 30A
My dream to have lots of batteries like you
Hi
Did u ever get these in production
I think 🤔 you can connect the data connectors the green and red go to the outgoing positive wire on the battery and the whight and black connect with the negative outgoing wire on the battery. They also allow to charge when connected in this way! I think the four wires your looking for should say data+, and data-, or data R, data X, on some or data Y,. Try using a multimeter to help you!!!👻
When I have a bad BMS. I just unplug the old plug, and plug it into the new BMS and connect the negatives cable.
Basically what we did here
Hi boss i need one battery for G30P can u please suggest me how will order and receive.. because im here Bangladesh
Hi, so if i do purchase the battery, will you provide the bms in the video if I choose the drop down box tested working , with cables ? i just would like clarity on it please and thank you.
Tested one has it installed already
SLM24 LIFEPO4 24V anymore when ru are getting dem back?
Soon I hope
Hi i have about 1000 of these batteries would like to talk about purchasing this kit
Please reach out 🎉❤
How much for one tested, with cables you take off and put on for me on a Ninebot Max G30P, so I can just plug n play
I'm on disability up here in Canada and they dont give us money to live like US disability does, no food stamps or extra benefits really
So I have to ask someone to buy this for me, and if it doesnt work they wont help me again if they think I'm wasting their money
So what ya think my man?
Remember, The battery pack is cooled by air moving across it while bicycle is moving...! Setting it on the bench with no air moving across it, from a fan is asking for real trouble. Watching the thermo footage gave me a scare, I was hoping for your sake it didn't ignite into a fire, so please be careful. As well the OEM battery management board has a possibility of a Controller reset. I've been coding since 1972, many different computer designs including the latest line of devices. Without seeing one of these battery packs management boards up close and personal, I can't help you get into it and reset the cutoff date clock, that kills the battery off, due to life expectancy safety precautions. You don't want them blowing up in a firebox between you're legs while on the Golden Gate Bridge. I have a Felton Volkswagen Rabbit conversion. But I use 8 12volt MK brand Gel battery packs, for my 96 volt pack, my motor is rated 120 HP at 120VDC, max. Send me a link, trade programing hack for a couple of those packs. I know the guys at at EV West. Fan Power for cooling... always
That BMS is not good enough for how hard its being pushed, 107c is way out of spec and is not safe. 80c is the most you really want, and that's on a good well known one. but some off the shelf one running at 107+c is bad and dangerous. Just for you all that don't know, 107c is 224f and water boils at 200f. P.S. Solder will start to get soft around 90c (depending on the solder)
I’m testing peak performance, what do you recommend? Using a bigger one so we can cook the cells? Cells are barely hanging on at a load of 27A, they were 60c
@@jehugarcia lol Well no I wasn't implying to cook the cells, I should have worded it differently. Sorry about that. What I meant is some people out there "that didn't know better" if ran at full tilt like this, would be dangerous , and I'm surprised the BMS did not cut off at a safe temp. (ie 80-90c). (would help save the cells that were running at their limit of 60c) I was not criticizing your testing methods at all, or at least did not mean to.
Water boils at 212f just sayin
Thank you Patrick for ensuring safety is front and center. saving a couple of bux pales in comparison to burning your house down.
@@worldwide_wes not in Albuquerque it doesn't. Water boils at 200F just fine.
Do you need my battery hacking services again? :)
You know you will not be able to resist the challenge.
@@mfgxl I'll give it a shot if Jehu is down.
Brad! We need your battery hacking services
@@jehugarcia I'll contact you.
🔋🔋🔋🐐👑👑
To bad they are only 36 volt
Dude those 20 amp 52v battery for $400 plus bucks wth way out of a lot of people range
Yes there are cheaper batteries out there, these are high quality custom built. I don’t control what things cost I just buy and resell product.
@@jehugarcia yup I know I just wish I had the $$$ to get my hands on a few of of them 2170s
@@rickrandom716 They are still a pretty good deal for what they are.
2 of the R12 will give you same 1Kwh but at 72v for around $100 so those are much more affordable.
@@jehugarcia yeah I bought some of them a few months ago but I have a controller that can run on 60v max but the ideal is 48/52 volts. I was thinking on the 72v option but I would have to upgrade the controller
If only we could go to a local shop and buy a lithium cell like we buy a AA battery. Everything about lithium remains a trade secret and restricted to a few corporations. 😮💨