sorry to be so off topic but does someone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Ryland Ethan Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Thanks helps a lot have done my T-5R and V90 (1998) now for the XC70 (2006). Just a little unsure on the timing belt tensioner since the T-5R has a hydraulic self tensioner which is removed and compressed the pinned -refitted-pin removed...so the tensioner on the 70 needs a closer look. Great explanation - congrats and well explained. R.
That’s quite a collection you’ve got there! It sounds much easier than that on this engine based on what you’ve said. Hope you get sorted and thanks for the comment!
I'm just doing one now and some arse used blue Hylomar. The old gasket was almost fused to the pump housing. If it's dark grey it's still gasket and silver is the ali so use plenty of light and also have a look from the bottom. You can get quite a lot of access from going under and also see old gasket under the lip that you can't see from the top. I think that plastic scraper you use will not work in some cases so think about scalping the old gasket off with a fully extended snap blade. It's bendy enough to lay flat against the old gasket. You should not need to use any gasket sealant as the paper-like gasket that comes with the new pump is 'the gasket'. Using any gasket maker or silicone is like using two gaskets instead of one!. As long as the housing face is smooth (1200 + wet and dry) the paper-like gasket will be all you need. Make sure there's no silicon or gunk in the bolt holes. There are two locating pins that the gasket can use to stay in place. Make sure you get all old gasket off from around these. Check torque amounts for the bolts; don't overtighten them. If you use a torque wrench makes sure it's calibrated or you risk stripping out the ali threads. The torques are usually really low (17Nm or 150 inch pounds). If the pump weeps when starting up let it as the gasket will expand into the micro scratches on the pump housing. ruclips.net/video/xZID9uOy7qU/видео.html
Thanks for the very informative video. I need to put the AC auxiliary belt on because I'm told by volvo when they did a check on my vehicle that mine is missing and I'm not paying their prices.
You’re very welcome! Hope you save plenty of money. I’ve never had any work done at Volvo other than diag but have found them to be especially helpful and reasonable on price for most things.
Great video, thank you!! But i would highly recommend cleaning all the oil of in that area - just the fumes alone can damage the rubber, same goes for the isolation of wires, and the other pulley, piping etc. All in all its not a big thing, but surely doesn't increase the lifespan :/
what a great guide!! Thank you so much. Do you have also a video about replacing valve lifters from the Volvo D5 5244T4, and fixing the engine timing after this work
Noticed you didn’t clean properly mating surfaces were water pump mounts on to block, I have been told by a Volvo technician that if you do change water pump it is a must that you only use genuine Volvo all other makes will fail early. You did say in your description that original water pumps are for the life of the car and normally don’t fail.
Once you get to this sort of mileage it’s hard to say what’s “for life” recently seen a V50 D5 with 200k plus, water pump original removed and fine. I’d already replaced the water pump on this twice because I bent one. It’s hard to properly clean the mating surfaces down there but a good amount of silicone gasket maker makes up for that.
Sorry Tolly, don't agree with your answer, may work now and then but surely you are showing people the very best way to do anything! Also, gave you ever tried the "engage gear and put on brakes"? In my 78 years I have never found this works, buy the right bloody tool, just replaced mine £13 brand new! UK Pete.
Hi love your videos. Im going to be doing cambelt a d water pump. But i have a 161bhp euro 3. Is there a good way of remap to 190 bhp and would you recommend removing egr valve thanks for your vids ace's.
I’m sure many places can remap them straight up. I haven’t bothered on my car as I was convinced it would give up at some point but it just keeps going. 316k currently. The EGRs don’t give any issue on the Euro 3, give them a clean every 100k and they should be fine. I can’t suggest deleting the EGR as it’s illegal but I think you can easily fit blanking plates on these even without a remap, I’m really not sure as it hasn’t been of interest to me particularly.
Good video! But isn't there any camsaft pulley sync fine tuning afterward needed by the larger holes in the camsaft pulley? I have done some VAG motors and with the new belts the timing was always off altough the belt and pulleys teeth matched because of the differences in belts. Fine tuning needed some diagnostic equipment wich allowed you to see the actual timing.
Thank you! No information indicating that in any manuals or instructions I have seen, I don’t know enough to give the actual reason why though, I’ve only done timing belts on D5 engines so far.
Great video, thanks so much for your time and effort making it. How many km were on that timing belt? My XC70's second one is due soon, has around 100k km on it I think, but looked perfect when I inspected it a few 1000k ago.
You’re very welcome, I hope it helped. Embarrassingly mine was well overdue by around 30k miles so 120k miles on the belt I removed. I nearly took the car off the road in 2019 and that’s why it didn’t get done because I was just using it as a van to move bulky items and my dog until November 2020 when it needed work for the MOT I decided to do all the jobs I’d been avoiding.
Hi, Do you know if your video is applicable to engine code: D5244T4 (XC70 year 2006 , D5 185bhp) ? No camshaft/crankshaft locking tools required? Great video - informative, educational and very helpfull. Cheers
Hi Ched, it’s the same job on the later engine as far as I know and you do need the crankshaft locking tool or failing that find a way to lock the engine such as the flywheel, car in 4th gear someone pressing the brake as hard as possible. This puts strain on the belt though so the locking tool is best. Glad to help and hope you get sorted, thanks for the comment!
@@robf9562 Hi Rob, I’m not 100% but I think the turbo could be original assuming the previous keepers didn’t change things. I bought the car at 232k. I’ve only just done the rear anti roll bar bushes, they had been filled with silicone as they aren’t a service item on these, you’re supposed to buy the whole anti roll bar. I haven’t replaced the wheel bearings in all the time I’ve owned it, that’s 80k on 19” wheels during my ownership. I’m on my 2nd replacement interior, it came with cloth so I bought leather but the seatbelt broke on one of the rears so I bought another leather interior. I’ve just replaced the steering rack too as that had some play in it and I only replaced the engine mounts at around 300k too, I think they were original.
Before I bought my 185 hp 2006 D5 V70 I spoke to an expert on this particular model who is a very experienced engineer.His advice to me was buy a 2006/2007 185hp V70 with 150000 miles on the clock. Most people/dealers think they are high mileage cars,but in reality they are just run in at 150000 miles. Buy the manual as the 6 speed box is bomb proof. I did what he advised and mine has now done 2003,000 miles.The only thing I can criticise them for is the engine mounts/vacuum system does not last well and the swirl valve actuator connection is a really bad design.
Hi, recently watched your vid of your refurbed Evoke wheels getting new Tyres etc , I’m wondering what modifications if any you had to make to get the Evoke wheels/ tyres to fit on your car , thanks Don
Hi Don, the wheel centres had to be bored out to match the larger Volvo hubs. My wheels are now square thanks to the roads so I’ve moved on to 18” BBS Nebulas.
You cannot properly tighten the belt if the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are still. The camshaft pulley has 4 bolts that are alowing you to joggle the pulley ( separate from camshaft ) when you tighten the belt...then you need to retighten them Ps The problem is how you gonna alighn next time the camshaft.....( as the pulley is gonna move around the camshaft) Normally the camshaft shoult have a block by himself( separate from pulley)... I'm a Volkswagen LT 35 ( 2.5) mechanic and basically is almost the same procedure and engine
Hi I have been using your video to do the job on my V70. All good until the last bolt head on the water pump sheared off, the top left one where access is very limited. As there are another six bolts to hold it plus the gasket and sealant would it be ok to just use the sheared of one as a locating pin ie is it likely to leak.
Hi Peter, sorry to hear that, I assume by now you’ll have done the job but yes I believe with perhaps some extra silicone that it would seal fine, not guaranteed as they can leak with all the bolts in if surfaces not cleaned properly.
Is it possible to change only the water pump? My timing belt and tensioner are brand new, so I do I need to follow the whole procedure? Please let me know thanks
You will have to remove the belt to change the water pump but I don’t see any reason to replace a new belt and tensioner again. I’ve just done my crank and cam seal on this car 20k after fitting the new belt and I’ve put it back in the car.
Hey trolly I need your help, I have the same Volvo same year same engine is it normal that under 2000 rpm it feels like it Has no turbo at 2000 it gats really on it , turbo was changed about 30000 km . You can hear the turbo spool up in the car but not very loud, car Hase no fold codes and doesn't smoke black thanks in advance
Brilliant vid Tolly i don't envy my mechanic mate doing the job i will tackle most jobs on my car but not the timing belt mine is due on my XC90 D5 as its done 103k think my aux belt and water pump also needs to be done also at that mileage don't you have your XC90 anymore?
Thanks Chas! It’s a job I wouldn’t have dreamt of doing even recently. It wasn’t as bad as on a lot of cars, they need engine mounts removing or much worse. The XC90 went in the first lockdown last year, I’d wanted to use it for travelling but with COVID I couldn’t keep it. I’ll get another when the time comes, it’s still my favourite all round road car!
@@IAMASPANNER hopefully the future can only get better as we all get jabbed keep up the good work mate your an inspiration i have just replaced my rusty tailgate lock pin with stainless one and seat side cover just got to crack on with the alarm siren service issue and ive only had the car since last friday oh the joys lol ;-)
@@IAMASPANNER Hi Tolly, excellent video, I 'vedone only 1 timing belt and W/P in my life in my corolla 2000. Mate it is a hard job to do. If you allow me one question: Is a XC90 D5 Diesel harder to do DIY maintenance repairs like T/B, W/P, injectors, oil trap, ..... etc; than 2.5L Petrol? I ask because we will need to buy a 7 seater car soon and my dilema is Petrol or Diesel. I consider myself a medium level handy mechanic guy, done most stuff in my car myself. I never done a Diesel, hence the question. Or most stuff on Diesel engines has to be done by diesel specialist mechanic? Are DIY in both that different?
All the instructions I have read through say is move anti-clockwise until it passes the alignment markers then adjust clockwise. It came in the 10 o’clock position so I didn’t need to move it anti-clockwise. Perhaps the arrow is the direction of the tension.
@@IAMASPANNER hi yes i viewed four videos on this subject 3 people went clockwise and 1 person sir rob done it anti clockwise,i have just done xc90 ,quite easy job,some autodata spec do conflict on the arrow.if you look where your eccentric plate finished up to the start of your post ,thanks
I’m sure sirobb will be the one to do it the correct way in all honesty. I would say that it shouldn’t make any difference though as the bolt secures the position of the tensioner wherever you leave it.
@@marcinkaminski4121 yes another mistake I made however I’ve done 20,000 miles since the job, I don’t think it makes a difference as long as the belt is tensioned correctly.
I wanted to do this on my 2008 v70, already removed the timing belt, engine mount etc just to realise that they hid ONE fucking bolt of the waterpump behind the timing belt cover. I dont know why they built it that way.
I’ll look out for this when I get access to a later model, 2 of the top bolts are pretty close on this car. I don’t know which cars it covers but twice now I’ve heard the water pumps are rated for life and don’t need replacing. There was a v50 in my friend’s workshop on the original one at 209k and it felt fine.
@@IAMASPANNER Ah like "europe" Russia and south Africa :D hehe, so right in the middle? thx y alot dude! have y an good video too, or tipps for changing the oil pump seal? when would y suggest to change the oil pump? any special tools for the seal ? (read in the internet, but its hard to get a tool for the mounting).
Yes, right in the middle in England on a good day! I haven’t done the oil seal yet but I think Sirobb on RUclips has done a video on the crank seal and oil pump. It’ll be next time I do the timing belt I’ll be doing mine as well as the cam seal so keep a look out for when I’ve done another 90,000 miles!
If the cam was 1 tooth off then I’d be in big trouble. I did however use the tensioner the wrong way, 20k and it hasn’t moved though, I think there’s just more movement clockwise than anti-clockwise.
Can you explain why did you turned it clockwise and not counter clockwise. I made today my timing belt change and now im thinking did i do it right. I tightened it straight clockwise.
Thanks for taking the time to explain in such detail, given me the guidance and confidence to have a go myself,
You’re welcome, that’s exactly what I aim to do. Good luck with the job!
Awesome guide, you've given me encouragement to tackle the job when my XC70 needs it's belt & pump renewing. Keep up the good work :)
Thank you, good luck with the job when you do it!
@@IAMASPANNER Thank you
sorry to be so off topic but does someone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Kyrie Nicholas instablaster =)
@Ryland Ethan Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I see another videos about changing timing belt , but this is very informative/educative, great job, cheers!!
Thanks helps a lot have done my T-5R and V90 (1998) now for the XC70 (2006). Just a little unsure on the timing belt tensioner since the T-5R has a hydraulic self tensioner which is removed and compressed the pinned -refitted-pin removed...so the tensioner on the 70 needs a closer look. Great explanation - congrats and well explained. R.
That’s quite a collection you’ve got there! It sounds much easier than that on this engine based on what you’ve said. Hope you get sorted and thanks for the comment!
I'm just doing one now and some arse used blue Hylomar. The old gasket was almost fused to the pump housing. If it's dark grey it's still gasket and silver is the ali so use plenty of light and also have a look from the bottom. You can get quite a lot of access from going under and also see old gasket under the lip that you can't see from the top. I think that plastic scraper you use will not work in some cases so think about scalping the old gasket off with a fully extended snap blade. It's bendy enough to lay flat against the old gasket. You should not need to use any gasket sealant as the paper-like gasket that comes with the new pump is 'the gasket'. Using any gasket maker or silicone is like using two gaskets instead of one!. As long as the housing face is smooth (1200 + wet and dry) the paper-like gasket will be all you need. Make sure there's no silicon or gunk in the bolt holes. There are two locating pins that the gasket can use to stay in place. Make sure you get all old gasket off from around these. Check torque amounts for the bolts; don't overtighten them. If you use a torque wrench makes sure it's calibrated or you risk stripping out the ali threads. The torques are usually really low (17Nm or 150 inch pounds). If the pump weeps when starting up let it as the gasket will expand into the micro scratches on the pump housing. ruclips.net/video/xZID9uOy7qU/видео.html
Thanks for the very informative video.
I need to put the AC auxiliary belt on because I'm told by volvo when they did a check on my vehicle that mine is missing and I'm not paying their prices.
You’re very welcome! Hope you save plenty of money. I’ve never had any work done at Volvo other than diag but have found them to be especially helpful and reasonable on price for most things.
@@IAMASPANNER wish I could say the same about volvo, just cost me £600 to replace the steering column lock.
Great video, thank you!! But i would highly recommend cleaning all the oil of in that area - just the fumes alone can damage the rubber, same goes for the isolation of wires, and the other pulley, piping etc. All in all its not a big thing, but surely doesn't increase the lifespan :/
Very good job , easy to understand, thank you 🙂
Glad to help Geir, thanks for the feedback 👍
U did not clean the old gasket off when it had broken witch will leave a uneven mating service ??
Very good movie, thank you mister :-)
what a great guide!! Thank you so much. Do you have also a video about replacing valve lifters from the Volvo D5 5244T4, and fixing the engine timing after this work
I've got mine to do as it's nearing 300k. Only thing I don't have is the bottom pulley spanner but I'll give it a go without it.
Could probably manage with a proper windy gun capable of 300Nm
Good how to. Thanks for doing it👍
Thanks Matt, hope it helps!
I'm sure I followed you along a stretch of the M6 in July? Heading North from around Birmingham area. I was in a Black V70 D5 AWD.
Entirely possible, I do get about a bit and usually put the miles on this car! 👍
Hola nunca cambian la correa de la bomba injectora?? Compre un volvo y la correa estaba a punto de cortarse y no se cual es el punto de la bomba.
Really good video, thanks.
Thanks Steve, glad to help!
32:28, is for the actual environment temperature when you fit the belt?
Noticed you didn’t clean properly mating surfaces were water pump mounts on to block, I have been told by a Volvo technician that if you do change water pump it is a must that you only use genuine Volvo all other makes will fail early. You did say in your description that original water pumps are for the life of the car and normally don’t fail.
Once you get to this sort of mileage it’s hard to say what’s “for life” recently seen a V50 D5 with 200k plus, water pump original removed and fine. I’d already replaced the water pump on this twice because I bent one. It’s hard to properly clean the mating surfaces down there but a good amount of silicone gasket maker makes up for that.
Sorry Tolly, don't agree with your answer, may work now and then but surely you are showing people the very best way to do anything!
Also, gave you ever tried the "engage gear and put on brakes"? In my 78 years I have never found this works,
buy the right bloody tool, just replaced mine £13 brand new! UK Pete.
Hi love your videos. Im going to be doing cambelt a d water pump. But i have a 161bhp euro 3. Is there a good way of remap to 190 bhp and would you recommend removing egr valve thanks for your vids ace's.
I’m sure many places can remap them straight up. I haven’t bothered on my car as I was convinced it would give up at some point but it just keeps going. 316k currently. The EGRs don’t give any issue on the Euro 3, give them a clean every 100k and they should be fine. I can’t suggest deleting the EGR as it’s illegal but I think you can easily fit blanking plates on these even without a remap, I’m really not sure as it hasn’t been of interest to me particularly.
Good video! But isn't there any camsaft pulley sync fine tuning afterward needed by the larger holes in the camsaft pulley? I have done some VAG motors and with the new belts the timing was always off altough the belt and pulleys teeth matched because of the differences in belts. Fine tuning needed some diagnostic equipment wich allowed you to see the actual timing.
Thank you! No information indicating that in any manuals or instructions I have seen, I don’t know enough to give the actual reason why though, I’ve only done timing belts on D5 engines so far.
VERY NICE VIDEO.
Will you secure the camshaft or crankshaft with any pin or tool, before you remove the belt? Is there that option?
Great job 👍👍👍
Thank you 🙏
Great video, thank you.
My timing belt is 12k miles overdue do I urgently change it or there is still some leeway?
Great video!
Thank you 🙏
very good video!
Thank you very much!
Great video, thanks so much for your time and effort making it. How many km were on that timing belt? My XC70's second one is due soon, has around 100k km on it I think, but looked perfect when I inspected it a few 1000k ago.
You’re very welcome, I hope it helped. Embarrassingly mine was well overdue by around 30k miles so 120k miles on the belt I removed. I nearly took the car off the road in 2019 and that’s why it didn’t get done because I was just using it as a van to move bulky items and my dog until November 2020 when it needed work for the MOT I decided to do all the jobs I’d been avoiding.
@@IAMASPANNER Ah good to know they can handle a bit of a delay in replacement. Thanks again :-)
very good video
Thanks Karen!
Merci Ⓜ📧®©❗ pour cet excellent tuto, comme j'aurais aimé qu'il soit traduit en 🇫🇷 langue française 👱👮👷💂👲
Hi,
Do you know if your video is applicable to engine code: D5244T4 (XC70 year 2006 , D5 185bhp) ? No camshaft/crankshaft locking tools required?
Great video - informative, educational and very helpfull. Cheers
Hi Ched, it’s the same job on the later engine as far as I know and you do need the crankshaft locking tool or failing that find a way to lock the engine such as the flywheel, car in 4th gear someone pressing the brake as hard as possible. This puts strain on the belt though so the locking tool is best. Glad to help and hope you get sorted, thanks for the comment!
I thought I was hearing incorrectly, 300,000 miles! I replayed the start a couple of times to just to check.
313k now Rob!
@@IAMASPANNER Apart from the engine, what original factory fitted major components are still working on that car?
@@robf9562 Hi Rob, I’m not 100% but I think the turbo could be original assuming the previous keepers didn’t change things. I bought the car at 232k. I’ve only just done the rear anti roll bar bushes, they had been filled with silicone as they aren’t a service item on these, you’re supposed to buy the whole anti roll bar. I haven’t replaced the wheel bearings in all the time I’ve owned it, that’s 80k on 19” wheels during my ownership. I’m on my 2nd replacement interior, it came with cloth so I bought leather but the seatbelt broke on one of the rears so I bought another leather interior. I’ve just replaced the steering rack too as that had some play in it and I only replaced the engine mounts at around 300k too, I think they were original.
Before I bought my 185 hp 2006 D5 V70 I spoke to an expert on this particular model who is a very experienced engineer.His advice to me was buy a 2006/2007 185hp V70 with 150000 miles on the clock. Most people/dealers think they are high mileage cars,but in reality they are just run in at 150000 miles. Buy the manual as the 6 speed box is bomb proof. I did what he advised and mine has now done 2003,000 miles.The only thing I can criticise them for is the engine mounts/vacuum system does not last well and the swirl valve actuator connection is a really bad design.
Hi, recently watched your vid of your refurbed Evoke wheels getting new Tyres etc , I’m wondering what modifications if any you had to make to get the Evoke wheels/ tyres to fit on your car , thanks Don
Hi Don, the wheel centres had to be bored out to match the larger Volvo hubs. My wheels are now square thanks to the roads so I’ve moved on to 18” BBS Nebulas.
Also I had to adjust the full lock stops because the wheels rubbed so much on the wheel arch I ended up having a blowout.
@@IAMASPANNER Hi , thanks for the info something to think about ….love the workshop videos although I’m biased I’m a d5 man myself 👍👍
You cannot properly tighten the belt if the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are still.
The camshaft pulley has 4 bolts that are alowing you to joggle the pulley ( separate from camshaft ) when you tighten the belt...then you need to retighten them
Ps
The problem is how you gonna alighn next time the camshaft.....( as the pulley is gonna move around the camshaft)
Normally the camshaft shoult have a block by himself( separate from pulley)...
I'm a Volkswagen LT 35 ( 2.5) mechanic and basically is almost the same procedure and engine
Hi I have been using your video to do the job on my V70. All good until the last bolt head on the water pump sheared off, the top left one where access is very limited. As there are another six bolts to hold it plus the gasket and sealant would it be ok to just use the sheared of one as a locating pin ie is it likely to leak.
Hi Peter, sorry to hear that, I assume by now you’ll have done the job but yes I believe with perhaps some extra silicone that it would seal fine, not guaranteed as they can leak with all the bolts in if surfaces not cleaned properly.
Is it possible to change only the water pump? My timing belt and tensioner are brand new, so I do I need to follow the whole procedure? Please let me know thanks
You will have to remove the belt to change the water pump but I don’t see any reason to replace a new belt and tensioner again. I’ve just done my crank and cam seal on this car 20k after fitting the new belt and I’ve put it back in the car.
Good vid 👍
Nice
Merci pour cette vidéo
Hey trolly I need your help,
I have the same Volvo same year same engine is it normal that under 2000 rpm it feels like it Has no turbo at 2000 it gats really on it , turbo was changed about 30000 km . You can hear the turbo spool up in the car but not very loud, car Hase no fold codes and doesn't smoke black thanks in advance
You can feel the turbo start to boost at much lower than 1,500 so I’d say that isn’t right on your car.
Brilliant vid Tolly i don't envy my mechanic mate doing the job i will tackle most jobs on my car but not the timing belt mine is due on my XC90 D5 as its done 103k think my aux belt and water pump also needs to be done also at that mileage don't you have your XC90 anymore?
Thanks Chas!
It’s a job I wouldn’t have dreamt of doing even recently. It wasn’t as bad as on a lot of cars, they need engine mounts removing or much worse.
The XC90 went in the first lockdown last year, I’d wanted to use it for travelling but with COVID I couldn’t keep it. I’ll get another when the time comes, it’s still my favourite all round road car!
@@IAMASPANNER hopefully the future can only get better as we all get jabbed keep up the good work mate your an inspiration i have just replaced my rusty tailgate lock pin with stainless one and seat side cover just got to crack on with the alarm siren service issue and ive only had the car since last friday oh the joys lol ;-)
@@IAMASPANNER Hi Tolly, excellent video, I 'vedone only 1 timing belt and W/P in my life in my corolla 2000. Mate it is a hard job to do. If you allow me one question:
Is a XC90 D5 Diesel harder to do DIY maintenance repairs like T/B, W/P, injectors, oil trap, ..... etc; than 2.5L Petrol?
I ask because we will need to buy a 7 seater car soon and my dilema is Petrol or Diesel. I consider myself a medium level handy mechanic guy, done most stuff in my car myself. I never done a Diesel, hence the question.
Or most stuff on Diesel engines has to be done by diesel specialist mechanic?
Are DIY in both that different?
@@cbv8 Hopefully the future can only get better with the jab🤣🤣💉💉😈💀☠
have you ever swapped the interoocler on your v70?
I haven’t, I’ve never even had a boost leak on this car, nothing to do with the turbo has ever given me any issues.
the tension has a direction arrow on it which is anticlockwise,you have done it anti clockwise?
All the instructions I have read through say is move anti-clockwise until it passes the alignment markers then adjust clockwise. It came in the 10 o’clock position so I didn’t need to move it anti-clockwise. Perhaps the arrow is the direction of the tension.
@@IAMASPANNER hi yes i viewed four videos on this subject 3 people went clockwise and 1 person sir rob done it anti clockwise,i have just done xc90 ,quite easy job,some autodata spec do conflict on the arrow.if you look where your eccentric plate finished up to the start of your post ,thanks
I’m sure sirobb will be the one to do it the correct way in all honesty. I would say that it shouldn’t make any difference though as the bolt secures the position of the tensioner wherever you leave it.
Why do you use sealnt for waterpump gasket? This is manual how to not do it!!
I should’ve cleaned the mating surfaces properly, I was being lazy.
@@IAMASPANNER And why do you apply tensioner clockwise. It should be tension counterclockwise. Not to hit by hammer on belt.
@@marcinkaminski4121 yes another mistake I made however I’ve done 20,000 miles since the job, I don’t think it makes a difference as long as the belt is tensioned correctly.
I wanted to do this on my 2008 v70, already removed the timing belt, engine mount etc just to realise that they hid ONE fucking bolt of the waterpump behind the timing belt cover. I dont know why they built it that way.
I’ll look out for this when I get access to a later model, 2 of the top bolts are pretty close on this car. I don’t know which cars it covers but twice now I’ve heard the water pumps are rated for life and don’t need replacing. There was a v50 in my friend’s workshop on the original one at 209k and it felt fine.
Chipped upper pulley, I think most Volvos have it done by a clumsy mechanic. Must be a very brittle alloy.
I am that clumsy mechanic! It’s plastic on this one too.
he is doing it right but, the gasket job is horrible.
So if I will repair it , I have to turn it on20 degrees room temperature? So , direct in the middle?
Approximately yes, as you can see from the diagram in the video the setting is different for different climates
@@IAMASPANNER Ah like "europe" Russia and south Africa :D hehe, so right in the middle? thx y alot dude! have y an good video too, or tipps for changing the oil pump seal? when would y suggest to change the oil pump? any special tools for the seal ? (read in the internet, but its hard to get a tool for the mounting).
Yes, right in the middle in England on a good day! I haven’t done the oil seal yet but I think Sirobb on RUclips has done a video on the crank seal and oil pump. It’ll be next time I do the timing belt I’ll be doing mine as well as the cam seal so keep a look out for when I’ve done another 90,000 miles!
why do you call it a windy gun? its called a impact wrench
That waterpump fiting surface look nasty😲
I should’ve made more effort with it, I agree, I’ve paid the price now because it does leak a little bit.
no leaks lol what about all the oil covering the engine
I’ll worry about them later 😂
That cam was 1 tooth off and you also tensioned it the wrong way😵💫😵💫😵💫
If the cam was 1 tooth off then I’d be in big trouble. I did however use the tensioner the wrong way, 20k and it hasn’t moved though, I think there’s just more movement clockwise than anti-clockwise.
Can you explain why did you turned it clockwise and not counter clockwise. I made today my timing belt change and now im thinking did i do it right. I tightened it straight clockwise.
Aftermarket water pump!! I bet the original oem pump would last longer.🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
INA? INA is OEM…
its not a windy gun its a duga duga
Der Riemenspanner wird gegen den Uhrzeigersinn gespannt !!! Ist ein Pfeil drauf und natürlich noch andere Fehler bitte so nicht nachmachen !!!
32:28, is for the actual environment temperature when you fit the belt?
Really useful this. Thanks
Great video!
Thanks Juri!
Great video!!
Thanks Ryan!