Its always great seeing the work put into designing and making heaters improve peoples quality of life. I'm elated that the heater is working so well for you and your family. If theres anything else we can help you with, please let us know. Thank you so much!
You can run your furnace fan intermittently too to circulate air. Some thermostat will allow you to set it to do so. Maybe a google nest thermostat you can do from your phone? thanks for the video. I love to learn about stuff like this.
Some suggestions, one pick up some of those wood stove fans that use the heat of the stove to run the fans. Two instead of using up floor space to circulate air flow try smaller fans mounted low in the walls of the room you want the heat to go to. Then a vent above near the celing to let heat into the rooms. Even in the bathroom. Thirdly have someone make an outside round jacket around your heat chamber to make a sand battery with a filler cap, with a vent hold to let the monster out. Once the sand battery heats up, it will help you save on pellets. By letting you shut the stove off, while the sand battery keeps heat flowing.
I bought a floor air mover and attached a 25 foot 6" duct line to it. Put the blower in my coldest room, aimed the duct at the hottest and the temperatures even out very quickly. Gave me my warm bathroom and a much cooler kitchen.
Fire needs oxygen, fuel, and heat to burn. So if you have a mass to absorb the excess heat before it goes up the chimney it’s best to feed your fire warm air. It then burns hotter because it doesn’t have to first heat the incoming cold air. Alternatively, instead of having a mass to reabsorb some of the heat going up the chimney, run your air intake alongside the chimney pipe so heat that would be wasted up the chimney instead preheats the air going into the firebox to fuel the fire.
If you have the ability to schedule your furnace fan to circulate your air for 15 to 20min per hour on a schedule you might consider doing that if your thermostat doesnt you could get a ecobee thermostat with multiple reading stations since with the ecobee you can schedule, set and run it like normal without calling for heat but circulate the air throughout your house until your temperature set point hits like you would if your furnace ran.
Nice follow up video! You may want to look into a cold air intake from the attic space, using a dual inner-outer pipe intake/exhaust (if you have the room). That way the cooler outside air get warmed by the attic space, then the exhaust making it's way down to the intake. At first it looked like you had drilled through the hearth and had a basement/crawlspace intake.
connect an ac thermostat to the fan of your central heating system. This way when it gets to be too warm in the room, it will turn the fan of your central system and spread the heat around the house.
..... or just run the central forced air unit on fan only. It'll move, and filter, the air throughout the house. An HVAC tech can set it up to run on low if it's a variable speed unit.
@@TheGhungFu thank you friend! That's exactly why we did, we had to change our thermostat so that we could run the fan independently of the heater or air conditioner. No big deal though, now we can circulate the air throughout the house. It works really well, and is surprisingly not expensive at all 👍
In our house when I was growing up in the 50's and 60's, we had a Heat-a-lator in our fireplace. Dad built insulated ducts that pulled cold air out of the extremities of the house and blew it into the heatalator. The warm air found its way to the colder parts of the house. It depends what is under your main floors, but you might be able to do this. What you did at 4:30 creates a draft in the hall way. Imagine pulling the air down and sending it back under the floor to a floor grill behind the pellet stove.
Yes, I think I see what you're saying, pull the cold air from the floor area where it's the coldest and densest, underneath the house, back up by the heater. It would create its own natural convection. Man, they were so smart back then in the old days
Great videos. I lived with a homemade rocket heater for a year. It worked well, but had a few issues. It's nice to see those issues have been figured out with the Liberator, the damper on the exhaust would have fixed our main issue. The one thin I'm not clear on, does the horizontal burn chamber have or need a replaceable liner? Isn't that just has hot as the heat riser?
Watched your previous video and then had to watch this one. Definitely looking forward to the '5 month cleanout' and the 'Build a cold air intake' videos. Thank you so much for putting these out. 👍🏻
Thank you for the information, video, and time you put into your channel. Observation / question... How many CFM is moving up the chimney and out of the house? Keeping in mind that expelling air out of the house (while taking the air from inside the house) creates a negative pressure inside the house whereby the house air must be replaced by air from outside the house through cracks and air gaps in the structure. The process is pulling cold air from outside into your house. What if you changed the source of the cold air from inside the house to outside the house? How might the Liberator perform, as well as the heating change, if the cold air source was constructed to draw air directly from outside instead of taking the air from inside the house? Would the house actually stay warmer if the cold air intake came from outside the house (or at least a portion of intake from outside)?
Yes, you are right. I didn't specifically talk about it in this video, but if you look carefully the "cold air intake" that I recently fabricated is on the back (or left) side of the stove, and now I bring in cold air from under the house into the burn chamber. Also the flue damper helps control the CFM of the draft going out the chimney, thereby keeping more heat inside the stove. In addition, when I compare my old woodstove chimney temps (400 degrees at the top of the chimney just under the ceiling) is MUCH hotter than the 200 deg of this rocket heater (same single wall chimney), so I don't exactly know the CFM of the draft is, but it is WAAAAY less with the rocket heater, simply because of the temp gradient (400 deg is going to travel faster upward than 200 deg). Bottom line, IMHO, is that even without the cold air intake, the rocket heater is going to suck a lot less cold air into the house to feed the flame as compared to my previous woodstove. I am hoping to finish the video on the cold air intake soon, so be sure to subscribe! Thanks for sharing your comments!
@@anesthesiadreamin Great points on the temp of the chimney (200F vs 400F) and less going out due to the reduction temp at the top. I did notice the change of intake on the left side of the stove ... did not realize it was pulling from a different location. Thank you again for all your efforts!!!!!
@@carltrano1325 and I'm super excited about it again this morning! Our heater went out yesterday evening, it was a Sunday, so repairmen aren't available, it's a brand new central heater, everything new, and it's still broke. No big deal, we just fired this up and ran it overnight, it was like 70 something in the house this morning when I got up. It wasn't super cold last night, upper 30s to 40, but we are warm, and our pipes are warm 👍 it saved our butts again
10:58 sawdust is sawdust. They're all about the same. They are indeed denser as proclaimed, but you're still paying for the same amount of fuel. It's still 40lbs of sawdust. The best argument I've heard is that you don't have to fill the hopper as often. Sure sure, but is it worth the the extra money when the hopper can hold 20 hours of runtime? The reason you wanted hardwood for your wood stove is because it was sold by the cord. Higher density means more wood in the same amount of pile. Think of it like the "What's heavier a pound of steel or a pound of feathers?" They're both a pound, but there's just a bigger pile of feathers. Same amount, different pile. Hope that helps!
I hear you! Just yesterday we were in the big city at Home Depot, they were selling pellets for just over $5 a bag. THAT was a cheap pallet of pellets! Yes, I was having buyers remorse. My wife and I had almost the exact conversation that you described LOL In Colorado we paid double for hardwood but we didn't have to fill the woodstove as often, and it ran somewhat hotter than pine. We notice the same thing with this rocket heater, the "harder" pellets last longer and make less ash. But you are right, so I fill it at 16 hours instead of 20 hours, it's still waaaay better than feeding a woodstove every couple hours. Thanks for your comments!
For rocket heaters all you should not use on the damper side but on the air inlet side something to do with draw and combustion (people smarter than me about rockets have mentioned this on many occasions) I think that it matters more if you have mass added than as a straight heat4er from the looks of it. Have you tried just adjusting it from the inlet side to see? great video BTW....
@@jeffmuis8740 yes, Great idea! That's actually why we switched thermostats this summer, because our security system originally controlled our thermostat but didn't let us run the fan independently from the heater. But with a new simple manual thermostat we just put in, now we can run just the fam. So we'll try that this winter. Good observation, You're the first person to mention this out of a whole bunch of comments on my liberator videos👍
I really like this thing. Perfect for heating if the power goes out and it is pretty efficient. As someone who lived through 3 weeks of no electricity after an ice storm, this is a must have. We survived with a regular woodstove, which even let us cook on it. The only disappointing thing is it’s not a wife approved in terms of looks (but what rocket will be?). Thanks for all your answers.
@@GrishTech Yes, my wife didn't like it at first, but she loves it now because it just does such a great job for us and is sooo easy. And she cooks on it sometimes. And not just great if the grid goes down, but our brand new central heater we just paid $9,000 to get installed this summer, broke yesterday evening, fix it fuy not avail on weekends, but no big deal, we just fire up the rocket heater and run it overnight, woke up to a nice warm house this morning. It like takes all the stress off of me, knowing that if anything goes wrong with our regular heater, this thing will take care of us.
@@kurtspann442 welcome I've never thought of it that way! And I don't think I've ever seen anybody try that. I guess it would take a heater coil, a pump, and I guess you could do pipes under the house that would warm the floor mass and be radiant heat. Is that what you were thinking?
@anesthesiadreamin something like that. Or have some sort of heat transfer(radiator) in each room. I have hot water base board heaters in every room of my house. Basically a pump to transfer the water to the baseboard, and they radiate the heat. They work on the principal heat rising moves the cool air across the heat exchanger. You can also just run the pipes across the floor. Warm the floor would, in turn, warm the room. Either way would be an alternative to distribute the heat.
How did you make out with the manual damper at the exhaust after you closed it ? I have to do same thing because it was blowing my fire out also and i saw your video that you turn it 90 degree. Just need a update if cooled your house down or have the same problem. Thanks again you really have helped me out more than you know lol
@@willieledee2411 I'm so glad! Yes, the damper we run at 90° now, completely cut off, well at least as much as possible considering the holes in the damper. So the exhaust damper yes, is in the closed position. This actually prevents a lot of the draft going up the chimney, so it actually traps more heat in the heater, and gives the heat more time to radiate into the room, so I think it's actually heating the house better with the exhaust damper closed. And then we run the intake damper at about 45°, and the stove runs upper 400s, sometimes 500s. If the wind is blowing really bad, we can almost close the intake damper, and it still runs! So yeah, glad this video helped you, that's why I make them, I've learned a ton from RUclips, and the people that make videos on all kinds of things, it's like having a neighbor pop over and look at your stuff and give you advice, it's good for community. If you ever make any videos on yours, I would love to see them
With my chimney setup, when the wind is blowing hard outside, it literally takes both to control the burn - the chimney flue is closed, and the cold air intake is throttled *almost* closed. So we have been leaving the exhaust damper closed all the time, startup and throughout the burn until we shut it off. This seems to be an effective way to keep more heat in the rocket heater allowing more time for it to radiate into the room. This is what Liberator suggested to me, sort of like using a diesel exhaust brake when going down hill - yes, you can let off the accelerator pedal which nearly closes the air intake, but the vehicle will still go too fast downhill; but turn the exhaust brake on which closes off the exhaust, thus slowing the engine RPM down even more. So we use both, but I think if the exhaust flue didn't have holes in the plate it would work even better and may not need intake control - but this is a risk, I think if you accidentally completely closed off the exhaust it would fill the house with smoke, so maybe some engineered holes in the exhaust damper is a good thing. I would start with that and add air intake control if necessary
I live in FLorida and love to see these kinds of video's. Why not build up a heat sink? Rocks, extra tile? something that eill radiate heat longer? Just an idea.
@@richardterrell7539 Yes! That is the long-term plan. We didn't get that done this summer. But we'd like to add some type of mass to store and later radiate heat.. sort of like a rocket mass heater. So you are exactly right! Thanks for watching and for your comment 👍
use the heat from the smoke that leaves the tube, and recover the calories by accumulating them in a mass, So you will have radiant heat in addition to the convection that you already have, This also allows you to have the restitution of this heat after the hair went out.
WHAT WOULD HAPPEN? if you put cut two pieces of stainless steel an inch wide and long enough to completely cover the interior of your burn basket and you left an inch and a half or 2 inches whatever’s left in the middle so you reduced the pellet exposure you would get the same temperature flame, but would less fuel? I’m glad to see that you connected to the outside for your combustion air that alone reduces your air infiltration by at least 50%.😄😄 I really want to have one of these stoves so that I can connect the power venter to it and see how it works ? My guess is through the wall venting would be a perfect fit for this stove.😋❤️🔥🙏🏼🇺🇸
@@theusconstitution1776 Yes, many people have done wall venting, be sure to check out dirtpatchheaven, she has some videos on the liberator , it seems like she has hers vented out the side as well. And I see what you're saying! I never thought of restricting the pellets further, maybe we could get him to burn even longer. The people at liberator told me that burning it at less than 350 is very inefficient, increases sit production, and the rocket performance is pretty poor. So I know if you choke the air down a lot to get the temperature down, it can become inefficient. But if you keep the same airflow, and just less pellets? Maybe that would work
Crăciun Fericit!!! Salutare din Romania!!!! Ce temperatura are teva pe care se evacuează fumul? Ar fi fff interesant daca ai face un video in care masori cu un termometru temperatura pe teva de evacuare!!!! Cat costa aceasta sobă?
Yes! Well, you have to take the pellet Hopper out, and then you can burn regular wood. Check out my playlist called liberator, in there are several videos, but especially " liberator rocket heater saved my ash" and " liberator wood consumption".
If you have a forced hot air gas furnace somewhere on that furnace depending on how old it is, there’s a white button usually on the supply Plenum press that white button in the fan runs continually and it will blend all the air in your house so when you’re running the rocket stove, it will heat your bathroom in your bedrooms For three dollars a month electricity❤️🔥🇺🇸🙏🏼
Thank you for the video! You mentioned controlling the exhaust when lighting the stover in certain conditions. Is the exhaust damper also the best way to control the stove temperature?
@@SirDavosChannel according to the people at liberator, yes, exhaust is the best way to control the burn. It also traps more heat in the heater before it goes up the chimney, so more heat actually radiates into the room. We used to run it with just an intake restrictor, which worked well, but now after running it for a couple weeks with this exhaust damper in place, it's definitely warmer and works better than restricting the intake
this pyroceramic glass is from Wood stove fireplace glass out of Illinois. It measures 5 13/16 in square, and is 3/16 thick. I ordered it online at woodstove-fireplaceglass.com and it took about a week for it to arrive. On their home page click glass, pyroceram, shop by custom size, rectangle/square, then you can put in the dimensions you want, and the thickness. I originally put this under the video short in the "Liberator" RUclips playlist: ruclips.net/video/nBhWkZ_AoY4/видео.html
@@TheKillBill31 right! i drilled a 4 inch hole in the flat sheet metal, so the 4 inch pipe actually goes a couple feet below the sheet metal and is open under the house in the crawl space. So it sucks outside air into the heater from under the house, which has good ventilation from outside.
Its always great seeing the work put into designing and making heaters improve peoples quality of life. I'm elated that the heater is working so well for you and your family. If theres anything else we can help you with, please let us know. Thank you so much!
Where I can get this stove??
It runs about 2500 with the hopper
You can run your furnace fan intermittently too to circulate air. Some thermostat will allow you to set it to do so. Maybe a google nest thermostat you can do from your phone? thanks for the video. I love to learn about stuff like this.
Some suggestions, one pick up some of those wood stove fans that use the heat of the stove to run the fans. Two instead of using up floor space to circulate air flow try smaller fans mounted low in the walls of the room you want the heat to go to. Then a vent above near the celing to let heat into the rooms. Even in the bathroom. Thirdly have someone make an outside round jacket around your heat chamber to make a sand battery with a filler cap, with a vent hold to let the monster out. Once the sand battery heats up, it will help you save on pellets. By letting you shut the stove off, while the sand battery keeps heat flowing.
I bought a floor air mover and attached a 25 foot 6" duct line to it. Put the blower in my coldest room, aimed the duct at the hottest and the temperatures even out very quickly. Gave me my warm bathroom and a much cooler kitchen.
Fire needs oxygen, fuel, and heat to burn. So if you have a mass to absorb the excess heat before it goes up the chimney it’s best to feed your fire warm air. It then burns hotter because it doesn’t have to first heat the incoming cold air.
Alternatively, instead of having a mass to reabsorb some of the heat going up the chimney, run your air intake alongside the chimney pipe so heat that would be wasted up the chimney instead preheats the air going into the firebox to fuel the fire.
You've got it dialed in now! Thanks for the update.
If you have the ability to schedule your furnace fan to circulate your air for 15 to 20min per hour on a schedule you might consider doing that if your thermostat doesnt you could get a ecobee thermostat with multiple reading stations since with the ecobee you can schedule, set and run it like normal without calling for heat but circulate the air throughout your house until your temperature set point hits like you would if your furnace ran.
A good informative video , thank you 😊 👍
Nice follow up video! You may want to look into a cold air intake from the attic space, using a dual inner-outer pipe intake/exhaust (if you have the room). That way the cooler outside air get warmed by the attic space, then the exhaust making it's way down to the intake. At first it looked like you had drilled through the hearth and had a basement/crawlspace intake.
connect an ac thermostat to the fan of your central heating system. This way when it gets to be too warm in the room, it will turn the fan of your central system and spread the heat around the house.
And this is why I love youtube, such great ideas! thanks!
I came to say this. :)
..... or just run the central forced air unit on fan only. It'll move, and filter, the air throughout the house. An HVAC tech can set it up to run on low if it's a variable speed unit.
@@TheGhungFu thank you friend! That's exactly why we did, we had to change our thermostat so that we could run the fan independently of the heater or air conditioner. No big deal though, now we can circulate the air throughout the house. It works really well, and is surprisingly not expensive at all 👍
In our house when I was growing up in the 50's and 60's, we had a Heat-a-lator in our fireplace. Dad built insulated ducts that pulled cold air out of the extremities of the house and blew it into the heatalator. The warm air found its way to the colder parts of the house. It depends what is under your main floors, but you might be able to do this. What you did at 4:30 creates a draft in the hall way. Imagine pulling the air down and sending it back under the floor to a floor grill behind the pellet stove.
Yes, I think I see what you're saying, pull the cold air from the floor area where it's the coldest and densest, underneath the house, back up by the heater. It would create its own natural convection. Man, they were so smart back then in the old days
Maybe somehow use the already-built-in ducts of the propane heating system to distribute the heat from the rocket heater to the rest of the house ....
Great videos. I lived with a homemade rocket heater for a year. It worked well, but had a few issues. It's nice to see those issues have been figured out with the Liberator, the damper on the exhaust would have fixed our main issue. The one thin I'm not clear on, does the horizontal burn chamber have or need a replaceable liner? Isn't that just has hot as the heat riser?
@@LunaticAltar yes, you are right, it needs a liner in both the horizontal and vertical burn chamber
@@LunaticAltar did you happen to make any videos on your build?
Watched your previous video and then had to watch this one. Definitely looking forward to the '5 month cleanout' and the 'Build a cold air intake' videos. Thank you so much for putting these out. 👍🏻
@@MasterD67 I just posted the clean out video, it's actually more like 4 plus months, but close enough 🙂
Thank you for the information, video, and time you put into your channel. Observation / question... How many CFM is moving up the chimney and out of the house? Keeping in mind that expelling air out of the house (while taking the air from inside the house) creates a negative pressure inside the house whereby the house air must be replaced by air from outside the house through cracks and air gaps in the structure. The process is pulling cold air from outside into your house. What if you changed the source of the cold air from inside the house to outside the house? How might the Liberator perform, as well as the heating change, if the cold air source was constructed to draw air directly from outside instead of taking the air from inside the house? Would the house actually stay warmer if the cold air intake came from outside the house (or at least a portion of intake from outside)?
Yes, you are right. I didn't specifically talk about it in this video, but if you look carefully the "cold air intake" that I recently fabricated is on the back (or left) side of the stove, and now I bring in cold air from under the house into the burn chamber. Also the flue damper helps control the CFM of the draft going out the chimney, thereby keeping more heat inside the stove. In addition, when I compare my old woodstove chimney temps (400 degrees at the top of the chimney just under the ceiling) is MUCH hotter than the 200 deg of this rocket heater (same single wall chimney), so I don't exactly know the CFM of the draft is, but it is WAAAAY less with the rocket heater, simply because of the temp gradient (400 deg is going to travel faster upward than 200 deg). Bottom line, IMHO, is that even without the cold air intake, the rocket heater is going to suck a lot less cold air into the house to feed the flame as compared to my previous woodstove. I am hoping to finish the video on the cold air intake soon, so be sure to subscribe! Thanks for sharing your comments!
@@anesthesiadreamin Great points on the temp of the chimney (200F vs 400F) and less going out due to the reduction temp at the top. I did notice the change of intake on the left side of the stove ... did not realize it was pulling from a different location. Thank you again for all your efforts!!!!!
Super this explains all the questions I had. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and sharing with us🙏
You're welcome! That's what I'm here for, glad you found it helpful.
Super excited about this heater, excellent video.
@@carltrano1325 and I'm super excited about it again this morning! Our heater went out yesterday evening, it was a Sunday, so repairmen aren't available, it's a brand new central heater, everything new, and it's still broke. No big deal, we just fired this up and ran it overnight, it was like 70 something in the house this morning when I got up. It wasn't super cold last night, upper 30s to 40, but we are warm, and our pipes are warm 👍 it saved our butts again
those torch nozzles will also fit on green camping propane canisters
@@silverblotter4444 correcto! And sometimes you can find those really cheap! Thanks for the reminder, I have a bunch of those laying around LOL
10:58 sawdust is sawdust. They're all about the same. They are indeed denser as proclaimed, but you're still paying for the same amount of fuel. It's still 40lbs of sawdust. The best argument I've heard is that you don't have to fill the hopper as often. Sure sure, but is it worth the the extra money when the hopper can hold 20 hours of runtime? The reason you wanted hardwood for your wood stove is because it was sold by the cord. Higher density means more wood in the same amount of pile.
Think of it like the "What's heavier a pound of steel or a pound of feathers?" They're both a pound, but there's just a bigger pile of feathers. Same amount, different pile. Hope that helps!
I hear you! Just yesterday we were in the big city at Home Depot, they were selling pellets for just over $5 a bag. THAT was a cheap pallet of pellets! Yes, I was having buyers remorse. My wife and I had almost the exact conversation that you described LOL In Colorado we paid double for hardwood but we didn't have to fill the woodstove as often, and it ran somewhat hotter than pine. We notice the same thing with this rocket heater, the "harder" pellets last longer and make less ash. But you are right, so I fill it at 16 hours instead of 20 hours, it's still waaaay better than feeding a woodstove every couple hours. Thanks for your comments!
For rocket heaters all you should not use on the damper side but on the air inlet side something to do with draw and combustion (people smarter than me about rockets have mentioned this on many occasions) I think that it matters more if you have mass added than as a straight heat4er from the looks of it. Have you tried just adjusting it from the inlet side to see? great video BTW....
Your returns for your furnace in the hall way may draw enough heat if you just run furnace fan?!?! Maybe something to try.
@@jeffmuis8740 yes, Great idea! That's actually why we switched thermostats this summer, because our security system originally controlled our thermostat but didn't let us run the fan independently from the heater. But with a new simple manual thermostat we just put in, now we can run just the fam. So we'll try that this winter. Good observation, You're the first person to mention this out of a whole bunch of comments on my liberator videos👍
I really like this thing. Perfect for heating if the power goes out and it is pretty efficient. As someone who lived through 3 weeks of no electricity after an ice storm, this is a must have. We survived with a regular woodstove, which even let us cook on it. The only disappointing thing is it’s not a wife approved in terms of looks (but what rocket will be?). Thanks for all your answers.
@@GrishTech Yes, my wife didn't like it at first, but she loves it now because it just does such a great job for us and is sooo easy. And she cooks on it sometimes. And not just great if the grid goes down, but our brand new central heater we just paid $9,000 to get installed this summer, broke yesterday evening, fix it fuy not avail on weekends, but no big deal, we just fire up the rocket heater and run it overnight, woke up to a nice warm house this morning. It like takes all the stress off of me, knowing that if anything goes wrong with our regular heater, this thing will take care of us.
@@GrishTech also, thanks for sharing your story!
This video short from this morning:
ruclips.net/user/shortsSJG-3Y1o7nw
@@anesthesiadreamin thanks for sharing. I need to buy one lol.
my thought was to heat water and transfer to colder rooms. basically a boiler system. easy way to distribute your heat
@@kurtspann442 welcome I've never thought of it that way! And I don't think I've ever seen anybody try that. I guess it would take a heater coil, a pump, and I guess you could do pipes under the house that would warm the floor mass and be radiant heat. Is that what you were thinking?
@anesthesiadreamin something like that. Or have some sort of heat transfer(radiator) in each room. I have hot water base board heaters in every room of my house. Basically a pump to transfer the water to the baseboard, and they radiate the heat. They work on the principal heat rising moves the cool air across the heat exchanger. You can also just run the pipes across the floor. Warm the floor would, in turn, warm the room. Either way would be an alternative to distribute the heat.
Thanks for the update!!!
Turn fan on furnace to recirculating thru duct work
How did you make out with the manual damper at the exhaust after you closed it ? I have to do same thing because it was blowing my fire out also and i saw your video that you turn it 90 degree. Just need a update if cooled your house down or have the same problem. Thanks again you really have helped me out more than you know lol
@@willieledee2411 I'm so glad! Yes, the damper we run at 90° now, completely cut off, well at least as much as possible considering the holes in the damper. So the exhaust damper yes, is in the closed position. This actually prevents a lot of the draft going up the chimney, so it actually traps more heat in the heater, and gives the heat more time to radiate into the room, so I think it's actually heating the house better with the exhaust damper closed. And then we run the intake damper at about 45°, and the stove runs upper 400s, sometimes 500s. If the wind is blowing really bad, we can almost close the intake damper, and it still runs! So yeah, glad this video helped you, that's why I make them, I've learned a ton from RUclips, and the people that make videos on all kinds of things, it's like having a neighbor pop over and look at your stuff and give you advice, it's good for community. If you ever make any videos on yours, I would love to see them
Video shows you modulating temp by dampening the exhaust flue. How does that compare to dampening the fresh air intake? Comparative effectiveness?
With my chimney setup, when the wind is blowing hard outside, it literally takes both to control the burn - the chimney flue is closed, and the cold air intake is throttled *almost* closed. So we have been leaving the exhaust damper closed all the time, startup and throughout the burn until we shut it off. This seems to be an effective way to keep more heat in the rocket heater allowing more time for it to radiate into the room. This is what Liberator suggested to me, sort of like using a diesel exhaust brake when going down hill - yes, you can let off the accelerator pedal which nearly closes the air intake, but the vehicle will still go too fast downhill; but turn the exhaust brake on which closes off the exhaust, thus slowing the engine RPM down even more. So we use both, but I think if the exhaust flue didn't have holes in the plate it would work even better and may not need intake control - but this is a risk, I think if you accidentally completely closed off the exhaust it would fill the house with smoke, so maybe some engineered holes in the exhaust damper is a good thing. I would start with that and add air intake control if necessary
I live in FLorida and love to see these kinds of video's. Why not build up a heat sink? Rocks, extra tile? something that eill radiate heat longer? Just an idea.
@@richardterrell7539 Yes! That is the long-term plan. We didn't get that done this summer. But we'd like to add some type of mass to store and later radiate heat.. sort of like a rocket mass heater. So you are exactly right! Thanks for watching and for your comment 👍
use the heat from the smoke that leaves the tube, and recover the calories by accumulating them in a mass, So you will have radiant heat in addition to the convection that you already have, This also allows you to have the restitution of this heat after the hair went out.
@@jedkrn that my friend is the short-term turned long-term plan 😁
WHAT WOULD HAPPEN? if you put cut two pieces of stainless steel an inch wide and long enough to completely cover the interior of your burn basket and you left an inch and a half or 2 inches whatever’s left in the middle so you reduced the pellet exposure you would get the same temperature flame, but would less fuel? I’m glad to see that you connected to the outside for your combustion air that alone reduces your air infiltration by at least 50%.😄😄
I really want to have one of these stoves so that I can connect the power venter to it and see how it works ? My guess is through the wall venting would be a perfect fit for this stove.😋❤️🔥🙏🏼🇺🇸
@@theusconstitution1776 Yes, many people have done wall venting, be sure to check out dirtpatchheaven, she has some videos on the liberator , it seems like she has hers vented out the side as well. And I see what you're saying! I never thought of restricting the pellets further, maybe we could get him to burn even longer. The people at liberator told me that burning it at less than 350 is very inefficient, increases sit production, and the rocket performance is pretty poor. So I know if you choke the air down a lot to get the temperature down, it can become inefficient. But if you keep the same airflow, and just less pellets? Maybe that would work
Crăciun Fericit!!! Salutare din Romania!!!! Ce temperatura are teva pe care se evacuează fumul? Ar fi fff interesant daca ai face un video in care masori cu un termometru temperatura pe teva de evacuare!!!! Cat costa aceasta sobă?
Your videos are selling this stove! Thank you!
All the true credit needs to go to Sky and the crew at Liberator. But if they ever want to send me an extra one as a thank you, I wouldn't say no 😁
Great video can you burn wood in the big chamber or what is in there?
Yes! Well, you have to take the pellet Hopper out, and then you can burn regular wood. Check out my playlist called liberator, in there are several videos, but especially " liberator rocket heater saved my ash" and " liberator wood consumption".
@@anesthesiadreamin Thank you!!
If you have a forced hot air gas furnace somewhere on that furnace depending on how old it is, there’s a white button usually on the supply Plenum press that white button in the fan runs continually and it will blend all the air in your house so when you’re running the rocket stove, it will heat your bathroom in your bedrooms For three dollars a month electricity❤️🔥🇺🇸🙏🏼
you beat me to it.thermastat has fan only.if not theres easy ways to do it🚬
Thank you for the video! You mentioned controlling the exhaust when lighting the stover in certain conditions. Is the exhaust damper also the best way to control the stove temperature?
@@SirDavosChannel according to the people at liberator, yes, exhaust is the best way to control the burn. It also traps more heat in the heater before it goes up the chimney, so more heat actually radiates into the room. We used to run it with just an intake restrictor, which worked well, but now after running it for a couple weeks with this exhaust damper in place, it's definitely warmer and works better than restricting the intake
@anesthesiadreamin
Great! Thank you for your answer.
Just ordered one. Where did you get the pyro glass. What are the dementions
this pyroceramic glass is from Wood stove fireplace glass out of Illinois. It measures 5 13/16 in square, and is 3/16 thick. I ordered it online at woodstove-fireplaceglass.com and it took about a week for it to arrive. On their home page click glass, pyroceram, shop by custom size, rectangle/square, then you can put in the dimensions you want, and the thickness. I originally put this under the video short in the "Liberator" RUclips playlist: ruclips.net/video/nBhWkZ_AoY4/видео.html
Happy Wife..happy Life.. ;0)
Would a barometric damper work in your chimney pipe for windy days
Hello from Greece.
where does the incoming air come down to the floor?
because it looks like it's closed with the sheet metal.
@@TheKillBill31 right! i drilled a 4 inch hole in the flat sheet metal, so the 4 inch pipe actually goes a couple feet below the sheet metal and is open under the house in the crawl space. So it sucks outside air into the heater from under the house, which has good ventilation from outside.
@@anesthesiadreamin thank you very much for the answer!!
How high did you run your stove pipe?. And what is the recommendation for the height
@@hankb4570 I didn't install this one above the roof, but I think the recommendation is 2 ft above the ridge line or the highest point of the roof
Run the forced air fan all the time on low fan!
@@walterfrancis8891 Yes! And that is what we've been doing, it helps a lot. The fan from the HVAC system doesn't pull much power at all. Great idea
Put ceiling fans in and move the hot air down
My liberator was vented from outside due to mass code I can not get the barrel to reach higher than 250 degrees any ideas
@@jeanproulx2069Yes, the top center of the barrel should get 400 to 500° easily. are you using pellets or sticks?
A small electric heater will heat most bathrooms in a matter of 15 minutes.
How much does it cost to run the liberator per month (january)
yes, the coldest months (Dec thru Feb) is a bag/day, so about $210 (at $7 per 40lb bag)
I just use an oil filled electric heater in our bathroom hallway
@@WhittleManDan aha! Good idea. We may have to go to that if we ever ran out of propane
It moves because you're causing a small vacuum in that room