1) What is the difference between hive alive and honeyBhealthy? 3:04 2) How do you get bees to move back down to the bottom box after winter in a deep/medium setup? 8:36 3) Is winter a good time to move bees? Can you move them more than a few feet at a time? 32:32 4) When entering the hive is there a space under the frames for them to go into or do frames extend to the floor? 35:25 5) Can I freeze 2:1 sugar syrup with hive alive in it to use in the spring? 44:01 6) Could you address putting fondant on now vs letting the bees use their honey stores first? 51:56
Thank you for another great session- 3 questions- 1) will bees take fondant that has dried? 2) what keeps fondant above the inner cover from freezing? 3) if fondant freezes on the hive, does it matter?
I think a lot of that fondant has to go through a freeze cycle up on top of the inner cover. Not sure how that impacts or reduces the benefits. Yes, they still eat it if it dries out but it's much harder for them to do that unless some condensation forms nearby.
Only the best discussion of insulation I've ever heard. You are always reliable Fred. My request for a future topic:how to accurately weigh bee hives. Thanks.
Hey Fred, i still love what you bring to the table! Thank you ps: i never observed poor audio or choppy video. I did miss the live stream but im playing catch-up.
Hi Fred, I did see 2 SHB underneath my Hivealive fondant last week. The 5 pound bag was cut in half exposing more of the fondant than the usual circle. I had to cut it in half so I could flatten it to fit in the feeder shim so maybe that was why I saw them?
I would make a guess that they were finding a hiding spot rather than finding a food resource or place for reproduction. The Thymol would likely be a deterrent to any egg laying in my opinion. But I'm open to observations and more information from those who do have SHB scooting around in their hives. Thanks for sharing. :)
Ha Fred Hive beetles and candy boards yes on them. Only though if they are to moist. Condensation makes the board soft so I did have worms, in winter U can tell u can smell it. I remove them and add more candy. I do put ultra bee in my winter food. we do not have a end flow and they have a pollen dearth here. I have less bee loss because I started feeding them in this way. On the insulation the top. I have the reflex bubble wrap and 2 in foam board. on the tops no vent. when u were talking about insulation are u saying it would be better for my bees to leave this insulation on the hives doing the summer and no vent. Thanks I enjoyed your video. Hope u make out fine with all that snow. Have a Blessed week
Yes to no venting a the top summer or winter, and yes to insulating year round. That's interesting that the beetles went for your candy boards, very useful information, thanks :)
Instead of putting fondant on top of the insulated inner cover, wouldn't it be better to put it under the inner cover where it will be warmer and more accessible to the bees. HiveAlive says to put their fondant under the inner cover. Vlad
On top to the inner cover is my preference, you can swap fondant without having to remove the inner cover, and you can check the progress also without removing the inner cover. I prefer not to disrupt the propolis seal during winter. Dara Scott also does this.
Just an FYI: With Zoom, you could make the Supervisor a presenter, and if he has the internet/computer at home, he could join in virtually from a different location than you and still share his updates.
To move the queen down in the spring, I do exactly what you suggested by moving the queen below an excluder. Ever have them then raise queen cells above the excluder? I have, yea, we know exactly what the bees will do!
Interesting! With the pheromone from the queen continuing through the upper box, I'd "guess" that maybe they were already planning to swarm and "could be" already in queen cell production? Or... did they begin queen cells after that shift of the queen down below? You're right, they are full of surprises no matter how much we think we have them dialed in.
@@FrederickDunn They were in the top box of a double deep stack, and the bottom deep was empty. I moved a frame with the queen down, into the bottom deep, and moved one of the empty frames up into the outside of the top deep. Even though the queen pheromone should have been there, they built what looked like supercedure cells. I have also heard of beekeepers that do exactly the opposite. they leave the frame with the queen on top of the excluder and move everything else down, and the bees make cells in the bottom super.
Speaking of mold in syrup have you ever heard of any negatives on adding bleach to it. I’ve been doing it for a good while. They drink it from swimming pools. Randy Oliver has an article on his site about it. I think he also mentioned thymol as another option.
Hi Fred, thank you for all of your great content and I hope that you are doing well with all of that snow. I noticed that you wear your watch over your sleeve. Is that so that you can monitor your broadcast time better or just a personal preference?
I think you could chill some brood in early april fred. If they only have enough bees to cover a few frames of 1 medium of brood. Then you move queen below excluder to keep laying, most nurse bees will stay with her, which then you could chill that brood above excluder. Again, like I always say why do we need to do any of this, I never have to do early spring manipulations of boxes. They always end up filling everything when they can fill it and have the size and strength to do it without causing not needed stress on the colony. Just leave them bee. Why do we think we know better. I want my locally adapted survivors to slowly start in the spring, as how many times in the early false spring here in the northeast do we get late cold snaps, or really long wet stretches where the bees are stuck and can't grow and need the numbers to keep warm and healthy. I feel my bees know what they are doing and so should everyone's bees if we breed for locally adapted survivors and stop shipping commercialy raised packages throughout the country. Sorry for incoherent rambling, but it's all connected. I hope all is well havent been around in a bit.
Hi Pete, I'm going to add this to next Friday's Q&A as it's been overly simplified here, and it's not so straight forward. This is in response to a question from a keeper who was having problems getting brood to descend in spring. I do not rotate boxes to get them to use the lower brood area, keep the entrance reduced and they do descent on their own as they fill the upper cells with honey. This is a recommendation I made instead of rotating boxes for those who want to split the brood and put the top box on the bottom in spring. I've never suggested manipulating any hive while they are still in winter cluster and not actively foraging in spring. Each region has its rhythm for swarm buildup and queen replacement. Those all need to be taken into consideration. If you look back at my past recommendations, you'll find that I never encourage any opening of a hive during cold weather. There are opportunities during early warm days to assess a colony and insert that queen excluder (If your plan was to rotate boxes). In my opinion, moving the queen down will draw some nurse bees to her, while others remain on brood to keep them warm, they will not move in larger numbers until the queen is in full production, which would also be in concert with what's coming in through the entrance and related to each individual environment. If you've arrived at a state of perfection with what you're doing in the environment where you have bees, then there is no need to try something new. I'm simply responding to questions asked. I believe my method of moving the queen down at the right time under a queen excluder will be superior to pulling the top box, splitting some of the brood cluster/pattern, and moving that down below which places the brood at the very bottom of the hive during the spring warm up. I'm happy to be debated on this recommendation. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@FrederickDunn I know you don't recommend rotating boxes that was why I was surprised on this suggestion. which i then thought I heard you saying you were going to try this. In no way do I tell anyone what to do with beekeeping and in fact this is my goal is to educate people that you don't need to always do what conventional commercial beekeepers suggest on a RUclips video. Practices from commercial beekeeping to people like us are drastically different. We dont need to be rushing bees to move anywhere if we aren't into keeping bees to make money. I just want others to know that alot of manipulation or stimulants or any drastic method being pushed by commercial beekeepers doesn't necessarily correlate with hobbyist. I never criticized you on anything that you said or did, I just am making a statement based on mistakes I've made in past years based on listening to let's say a commercial beekeeper trying to jump start bees for pollination, which in no way reflects what I need to be doing in CT river valley in northeast with 30 hives with a small queen production operation. it's all very area and goal specific and then down to even micro climates. Thanks for answering fred I hope you don't take any offense on what I say , I get frustrated with beekeeping industry as a whole with always pushing methods and selling things. Hope all is well through the snow!
@@peteGbee Oh, please trust me, I'm never offended, it's all about discussions and working through topics. This is why I think this topic warrants a more thorough explanation to that viewers and listeners have more information to base their chosen path on. :) I value all opinions, and enjoy discussions. Thanks for the follow up. :) The snow is still falling, and we're all snug here as are the bees :)
A subscription to American Beekeeper? Thanks for that, I've never heard of that publication before. Any chance you're referring to The American Bee Journal? That's a favorite as every contributor goes through pretty detailed vetting prior to being able to publish an article.
Yes, please come up and say hello :) Regarding Slatted Racks, I put them under standard Langstroth wood hives, and one is under an Apimaye hive just for kicks. None under Lyson hives.
Re your brood in bottom deep box. Why not just leave the bees alone and let them do their thing? What are the advantages of penning the queen in the deep? Why don't you like reversing the medium and deep?
You're the second person to ask for more detail, so this warrants a lengthier explanation and I'll do that next Friday. It's at the top of my list as there are many aspects to consider. Thanks for your patience :)
Hey Fred, I got my Christmas present early!!!!!! The Ambient WS-5000 weather station. I've installed it already and geeking out over it and driving everyone crazy in my household with weather information that they don't care about.....lol
1) What is the difference between hive alive and honeyBhealthy? 3:04
2) How do you get bees to move back down to the bottom box after winter in a deep/medium setup? 8:36
3) Is winter a good time to move bees? Can you move them more than a few feet at a time? 32:32
4) When entering the hive is there a space under the frames for them to go into or do frames extend to the floor? 35:25
5) Can I freeze 2:1 sugar syrup with hive alive in it to use in the spring? 44:01
6) Could you address putting fondant on now vs letting the bees use their honey stores first? 51:56
Sounds good on Saturday night 😊
Thanks Fred
Thank you so much :) I appreciate that feedback :)
Thank you for another great session- 3 questions- 1) will bees take fondant that has dried? 2) what keeps fondant above the inner cover from freezing? 3) if fondant freezes on the hive, does it matter?
I think a lot of that fondant has to go through a freeze cycle up on top of the inner cover. Not sure how that impacts or reduces the benefits. Yes, they still eat it if it dries out but it's much harder for them to do that unless some condensation forms nearby.
Only the best discussion of insulation I've ever heard. You are always reliable Fred. My request for a future topic:how to accurately weigh bee hives. Thanks.
Thanks, John :) I'll add this topic for next Friday :)
@FrederickDunn Great! I will be tuning in.
Sorry couldn’t make the live stream
Enjoy you’re chat with Tara
There will certainly be more live streams in the future :) and thanks, I enjoyed that interview myself :)
I have reversed boxes in spring. I will definitely use your QX idea.
Great! I'm so glad to have given you another approach to try out :)
Hey Fred, i still love what you bring to the table! Thank you
ps: i never observed poor audio or choppy video. I did miss the live stream but im playing catch-up.
Thank you, that's a relief. I was a little stressed at the idea of my audio cutting out :)
I would like to see more 5 frame equipment, especially insulated inner and insulated telescoping outer covers.
I agree, it's pretty straight forward to make your own insulated covers, but it would be nice to see some ready to go units. :)
@@FrederickDunnI am happy with the inner covers I have made, but less so with the outer covers.
Hi Fred, I did see 2 SHB underneath my Hivealive fondant last week. The 5 pound bag was cut in half exposing more of the fondant than the usual circle. I had to cut it in half so I could flatten it to fit in the feeder shim so maybe that was why I saw them?
I would make a guess that they were finding a hiding spot rather than finding a food resource or place for reproduction. The Thymol would likely be a deterrent to any egg laying in my opinion. But I'm open to observations and more information from those who do have SHB scooting around in their hives. Thanks for sharing. :)
Ha Fred Hive beetles and candy boards yes on them. Only though if they are to moist. Condensation makes the board soft so I did have worms, in winter U can tell u can smell it. I remove them and add more candy. I do put ultra bee in my winter food. we do not have a end flow and they have a pollen dearth here. I have less bee loss because I started feeding them in this way. On the insulation the top. I have the reflex bubble wrap and 2 in foam board. on the tops no vent. when u were talking about insulation are u saying it would be better for my bees to leave this insulation on the hives doing the summer and no vent. Thanks I enjoyed your video. Hope u make out fine with all that snow. Have a Blessed week
Yes to no venting a the top summer or winter, and yes to insulating year round. That's interesting that the beetles went for your candy boards, very useful information, thanks :)
Instead of putting fondant on top of the insulated inner cover, wouldn't it be better to put it under the inner cover where it will be warmer and more accessible to the bees. HiveAlive says to put their fondant under the inner cover. Vlad
On top to the inner cover is my preference, you can swap fondant without having to remove the inner cover, and you can check the progress also without removing the inner cover. I prefer not to disrupt the propolis seal during winter. Dara Scott also does this.
Just an FYI: With Zoom, you could make the Supervisor a presenter, and if he has the internet/computer at home, he could join in virtually from a different location than you and still share his updates.
Love that idea 🩵🐝🩵
Thank you for sharing that, I hope he does not read this comment (';')( ';')... I'd have to put him in time out... for sure.
With crotch deep snow here in Kingsville, Ohio, I had to clear snow from hive entrances. Whew! Hope you're holding up over there in Pa.
We're headed toward 5' at the moment, and I'll be doing a video showing the hive situation here soon. :)
To move the queen down in the spring, I do exactly what you suggested by moving the queen below an excluder. Ever have them then raise queen cells above the excluder? I have, yea, we know exactly what the bees will do!
Interesting! With the pheromone from the queen continuing through the upper box, I'd "guess" that maybe they were already planning to swarm and "could be" already in queen cell production? Or... did they begin queen cells after that shift of the queen down below? You're right, they are full of surprises no matter how much we think we have them dialed in.
@@FrederickDunn They were in the top box of a double deep stack, and the bottom deep was empty. I moved a frame with the queen down, into the bottom deep, and moved one of the empty frames up into the outside of the top deep. Even though the queen pheromone should have been there, they built what looked like supercedure cells. I have also heard of beekeepers that do exactly the opposite. they leave the frame with the queen on top of the excluder and move everything else down, and the bees make cells in the bottom super.
Hope you have a great Christmas my friend 🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🎄🎄🎄
Thank you so much, and the same to you :)
Speaking of mold in syrup have you ever heard of any negatives on adding bleach to it. I’ve been doing it for a good while. They drink it from swimming pools. Randy Oliver has an article on his site about it. I think he also mentioned thymol as another option.
Yes, bleach at 1 tsp per gallon is fine and sanitizes drinkers. :)
Hi Fred, thank you for all of your great content and I hope that you are doing well with all of that snow. I noticed that you wear your watch over your sleeve. Is that so that you can monitor your broadcast time better or just a personal preference?
Wow... keen eye there! Yes, so I'll hear the beep when an hour has passed :)
Lyson stands on sale Cyber Monday $125.
Oh! Thanks for sharing :)
I think you could chill some brood in early april fred. If they only have enough bees to cover a few frames of 1 medium of brood. Then you move queen below excluder to keep laying, most nurse bees will stay with her, which then you could chill that brood above excluder. Again, like I always say why do we need to do any of this, I never have to do early spring manipulations of boxes. They always end up filling everything when they can fill it and have the size and strength to do it without causing not needed stress on the colony. Just leave them bee. Why do we think we know better. I want my locally adapted survivors to slowly start in the spring, as how many times in the early false spring here in the northeast do we get late cold snaps, or really long wet stretches where the bees are stuck and can't grow and need the numbers to keep warm and healthy. I feel my bees know what they are doing and so should everyone's bees if we breed for locally adapted survivors and stop shipping commercialy raised packages throughout the country. Sorry for incoherent rambling, but it's all connected. I hope all is well havent been around in a bit.
Hi Pete, I'm going to add this to next Friday's Q&A as it's been overly simplified here, and it's not so straight forward. This is in response to a question from a keeper who was having problems getting brood to descend in spring. I do not rotate boxes to get them to use the lower brood area, keep the entrance reduced and they do descent on their own as they fill the upper cells with honey. This is a recommendation I made instead of rotating boxes for those who want to split the brood and put the top box on the bottom in spring. I've never suggested manipulating any hive while they are still in winter cluster and not actively foraging in spring. Each region has its rhythm for swarm buildup and queen replacement. Those all need to be taken into consideration. If you look back at my past recommendations, you'll find that I never encourage any opening of a hive during cold weather. There are opportunities during early warm days to assess a colony and insert that queen excluder (If your plan was to rotate boxes). In my opinion, moving the queen down will draw some nurse bees to her, while others remain on brood to keep them warm, they will not move in larger numbers until the queen is in full production, which would also be in concert with what's coming in through the entrance and related to each individual environment. If you've arrived at a state of perfection with what you're doing in the environment where you have bees, then there is no need to try something new. I'm simply responding to questions asked. I believe my method of moving the queen down at the right time under a queen excluder will be superior to pulling the top box, splitting some of the brood cluster/pattern, and moving that down below which places the brood at the very bottom of the hive during the spring warm up. I'm happy to be debated on this recommendation. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@FrederickDunn I know you don't recommend rotating boxes that was why I was surprised on this suggestion. which i then thought I heard you saying you were going to try this. In no way do I tell anyone what to do with beekeeping and in fact this is my goal is to educate people that you don't need to always do what conventional commercial beekeepers suggest on a RUclips video. Practices from commercial beekeeping to people like us are drastically different. We dont need to be rushing bees to move anywhere if we aren't into keeping bees to make money. I just want others to know that alot of manipulation or stimulants or any drastic method being pushed by commercial beekeepers doesn't necessarily correlate with hobbyist. I never criticized you on anything that you said or did, I just am making a statement based on mistakes I've made in past years based on listening to let's say a commercial beekeeper trying to jump start bees for pollination, which in no way reflects what I need to be doing in CT river valley in northeast with 30 hives with a small queen production operation. it's all very area and goal specific and then down to even micro climates. Thanks for answering fred I hope you don't take any offense on what I say , I get frustrated with beekeeping industry as a whole with always pushing methods and selling things. Hope all is well through the snow!
@@peteGbee Oh, please trust me, I'm never offended, it's all about discussions and working through topics. This is why I think this topic warrants a more thorough explanation to that viewers and listeners have more information to base their chosen path on. :) I value all opinions, and enjoy discussions. Thanks for the follow up. :) The snow is still falling, and we're all snug here as are the bees :)
Hi fred i tell my family what books to buy for xmass on your reviews with the Authors you have on
Hi Fred, I like the sounds of that mouse trap, I'll check it out. I'm asking for a subscription to American Beekeeper for my Christmas bee gift.
A subscription to American Beekeeper? Thanks for that, I've never heard of that publication before. Any chance you're referring to The American Bee Journal? That's a favorite as every contributor goes through pretty detailed vetting prior to being able to publish an article.
Looking forward to seeing you at NAHBE. Do you have slatted bottom racks on your Lyson 8/9 boxes TY
Yes, please come up and say hello :) Regarding Slatted Racks, I put them under standard Langstroth wood hives, and one is under an Apimaye hive just for kicks. None under Lyson hives.
@ thank you. We have enjoyed watching your education here in SW Michigan.
Re your brood in bottom deep box. Why not just leave the bees alone and let them do their thing? What are the advantages of penning the queen in the deep? Why don't you like reversing the medium and deep?
Rotating boxes splits the brood nest.
@@kristalburgess96 Not if the entire brood nest is in the bottom deep.
@@slava790if the whole brood nest is in the bottom box, you wouldn’t need to rotate boxes
@@kristalburgess96 Sorry, I meant brood in top box. I just edited buy original post.
You're the second person to ask for more detail, so this warrants a lengthier explanation and I'll do that next Friday. It's at the top of my list as there are many aspects to consider. Thanks for your patience :)
Hey Fred, I got my Christmas present early!!!!!! The Ambient WS-5000 weather station. I've installed it already and geeking out over it and driving everyone crazy in my household with weather information that they don't care about.....lol
That's fantastic, if they only had an accurate snow-fall gauge :) it's great to know what's going on out there :)
My first time watching you where are you from
North West Pennsylvania i believe.
57:00
WHERE ARE YOU FROM ITS MY FIRST TIME WATCHING YOU
I apologize for not making that more clear in my responses. I'm in the State of PA, right in the middle of the snow-belt near Lake Erie.
First five minutes bad audio
Others didn't experience that, and I can't find the choppy areas, maybe it was a rendering lag or something? Sorry about that.
Hi fred i tell my family what books to buy for xmass on your reviews with the Authors you have on
Oh, that's a great method, Peter :)