Jake, as always it’s nice to watch you work. Cool to see you with the weld tube family. You’re an excellent teacher and a good asset to their team. Keep up the hard work and stay safe!
Great job like the spilt screen and the explanation of whats happening and how to adjust. Really helps me get a better understanding of how it should be done. Keep em coming 👍👍👍
Notice your arc control is set low for xx10 rods - is that on purpose. Been running mine on the high side and was thinking of turning it down - pain to go back and forth. Great video - nice shots - great explanation and sound. Thanks for putting the time in.
That 7010 looks like a smooth running rod. I have never run 7010 or 8010, considering ordering some for the truck for general welding cause the low-hy isnt always the way to go. Is 7010/8010 smoother and better filling than 6010? How about brittleness?
Hey man I’m not a pipe welder but I do weld a lot but I am still learning how to weld but I am having a hard time welding thin metal could you do a video on welding thin stuff?
Quick question. I’m about to start tulsa in June and I know schofield said this isn’t pipeline welding but i don’t know if that answers my question. But his rod angle wasn’t to the center of the pipe on the cap. Does it really matter if it’s to the center of the pipe?
You are doing that the hard way.Gap is too big.Key holes too big because of it.Get down to about the width of a dime.Landing about a dime or less.Preheat to 300 so the rod can't stick.Turn it up 15-20 amps ,use a 80XX series high pen rod.Its designed to run hotter downhill.Loosen up your wrist and stick the rod out at a 45 from the stinger so you can TWIST that rod quickly[or if you are on the bottom straight out the end][if you are not using a roll out wheel.] if it toenails.But it will toenail less because it is hotter.The rest of you got right except the arc was too long..I did it that way for twenty years and you can get suck in on the bottom on a 6G.LET THE ROD RIDE ON THE FLUX AND APPLY A SLIGHT PRESSURE. .be ready to twist it if need be.Listen to the sound of it.You can get a good bead in tight places you cant even see this way.Its easier and more consistent making the welders life less stressful.Should you have a bad spot it is easier to grind and fix especially on the bottom but you will have less repairs this way.I made a living 40 years pipe welding .Prudhoe Bay Alaska to Key West Florida .Loosen up that wrist so you can quickly to twist that rod if it toenails.This method makes smooth easy tie ins.What I just described was the method used on the trans alaska pipeline.I used a number nine welding lens for 20 years and my eyes are fine at 64.Unless I was burning rods bigger that 5/32.
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Great job there brother, your explanation of what’s happening and why is awesome 👊🏻
Too useful skill. Good welding. Nice bead.👍
Nice welding cap...respect from Navajo nation
Great pointers on long arc and short arc heat control. Learn more every day!
Wow. Nice to see Schofield welding here. It would be cool if you can get welding tips and tricks
Now these videos are the ones we want no music no nothing just straight advice keep up with these kind of videos and less music.
Jake, as always it’s nice to watch you work. Cool to see you with the weld tube family. You’re an excellent teacher and a good asset to their team. Keep up the hard work and stay safe!
That REEEEmot helps for the RUUT pass
Awesome!!! Thx for the videos !
Great job like the spilt screen and the explanation of whats happening and how to adjust.
Really helps me get a better understanding of how it should be done.
Keep em coming 👍👍👍
I’m kinda staying in the meeedle on the cap 😂😂
Beautiful job. That's a nice looking weld
"took me a long time to figure it out" I know that feeling. lol
great video always learn something new thanks
Just a great day at work! Good luck!!!!
Bravo bravo bravo you guys are freaking amazing
Them roll out hands are slick!!!!!!!
Nice! That root and cap look slick! 🤘
Jam up job explaining it Jacob
Love the videos man !!
Super slick!
Notice your arc control is set low for xx10 rods - is that on purpose. Been running mine on the high side and was thinking of turning it down - pain to go back and forth. Great video - nice shots - great explanation and sound. Thanks for putting the time in.
What rod were you using? I thought I heard you were using a 70110?? Did I hear right?
He said 7010. Its a pipe rod. Celluoluse like 6010, 70,000 psi tensile strength. Its sometimes used to fill and cap pipe after a 6010 root pass.
I really liked the use of the wheel. Hot but nice weld 👍🏻
That 7010 looks like a smooth running rod. I have never run 7010 or 8010, considering ordering some for the truck for general welding cause the low-hy isnt always the way to go. Is 7010/8010 smoother and better filling than 6010? How about brittleness?
Awesome video!! Like you said “Better to show how to fix something”..
Just started summer school with mig, can you do some videos for us mig beginners
Nice weld man.
Good job my friend , very nice
That is a nice welding cap
Boy slick
The angle seems to be closer to 30 degrees than 10-15. Thoughts?
First Last included angle of 15* is 30*
Bad azz vid bro 💯👊
Which pancake do you use right or left? Or does it matter on the pipeline?
Can you show how to do a wide but weldable gap in position . Like something you would see on a job.
Hey man I’m not a pipe welder but I do weld a lot but I am still learning how to weld but I am having a hard time welding thin metal could you do a video on welding thin stuff?
Quick question. I’m about to start tulsa in June and I know schofield said this isn’t pipeline welding but i don’t know if that answers my question. But his rod angle wasn’t to the center of the pipe on the cap. Does it really matter if it’s to the center of the pipe?
Im not a master But he is welding downhill so i dont think uphill logic applies the same
Ali Tobi thanks for taking the time to reply! And that sounds like a good answer.
@@sethq3676 i know it says "downhill" but after the Root Pass, he's practically welding in a flat position. See 4:00
Ток невиликоват?
First comment
I like how you say the root
Demen chamba culos
You are doing that the hard way.Gap is too big.Key holes too big because of it.Get down to about the width of a dime.Landing about a dime or less.Preheat to 300 so the rod can't stick.Turn it up 15-20 amps ,use a 80XX series high pen rod.Its designed to run hotter downhill.Loosen up your wrist and stick the rod out at a 45 from the stinger so you can TWIST that rod quickly[or if you are on the bottom straight out the end][if you are not using a roll out wheel.] if it toenails.But it will toenail less because it is hotter.The rest of you got right except the arc was too long..I did it that way for twenty years and you can get suck in on the bottom on a 6G.LET THE ROD RIDE ON THE FLUX AND APPLY A SLIGHT PRESSURE. .be ready to twist it if need be.Listen to the sound of it.You can get a good bead in tight places you cant even see this way.Its easier and more consistent making the welders life less stressful.Should you have a bad spot it is easier to grind and fix especially on the bottom but you will have less repairs this way.I made a living 40 years pipe welding .Prudhoe Bay Alaska to Key West Florida .Loosen up that wrist so you can quickly to twist that rod if it toenails.This method makes smooth easy tie ins.What I just described was the method used on the trans alaska pipeline.I used a number nine welding lens for 20 years and my eyes are fine at 64.Unless I was burning rods bigger that 5/32.