AEM Boost and AFR Gauge Install (STI)
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- Опубликовано: 30 авг 2019
- Finally installing the gauges that Ive been wanting to do for quite some time. We got the 52mm AEM gauges with the SMY Gauge cluster. It looks great installed on the car and this video can easily walk you though the Install.
AEM Boost Gauge amzn.to/351wL6t
AEM AFR Gauge amzn.to/33PaCXv
SMY Gauge Cluster. amzn.to/3887mK3
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Super huge thanks for this video. I installed my oil pressure and AFR gauges last night. This video was super helpful in getting the job done.
Glad that the video was some help in getting the job done! 🙌
watched this years later and I love that fuse option, gonna be doing mine this weekend
Good way of doing it, that's how I still do them 🥳
Ohhhh so that's the way to do it 😄
Thank you for the video, this was great!
Anytime! 🙌😁
It's a stock placement. It's a cobb 20g but with better parts . I put it on my 17sti with ewg I got the dual ball bearing . Its amazing .
Hehe, bung hole 💪👌. Great install video.
Bung holeeeeeee 😅
I know this is 2 years old. But a tip for soldering your wires together. Take your solder iron and place it on the opposite side that you are applying your solder to on the connection, you want to heat the connection and allow the solder to be sucked through to your soldering iron. By melting the solder directly onto your connection, you are only coating the outer strands.
With the level of editing in your vids, I find it insane you don’t do YT full time. Awesome vids and keep up the grind!!! 💪🏽
Now I do it full time 😁😁😁
Just the Vid I needed to install my Wideband and boost guage.
Glad you found it, hope it helps! 😁
Bout do this tomorrow ! Hopefully it all goes smooth!
Goodluck! Not too bad to do 😁
Another tip for soldering is to put the iron on the bottom of the wire and melt the solder in from the top, this ensures the whole joint is soldered all the way through and its pretty neat to watch lmao
I'll have to give that a try next time I solder, appreciate the tip! 😁
@@Smeedia no problem my guy! Using a wider tip with that technique also helps lmao
Also ur a g for replying !!
I have a somewhat outlandish question... I had an analog boost gauge for a while but jjust got an AEM digital one set up and was wondering if it is possible to take the boost line from the old gauge and run it to the AEM sensor. In my head, as long as it fits, it would make sense to be able to do that so I can avoid running a whole new set of lines through the fender.
Hey Tanner I have another question for you please. I going to install my boost gauge on my 05 WRX, However, I am not able to locate the nipple as shown in your video. Any other place I can tap into for the boost gauge, please?
if you can, Could you pls drop a link to where you got the add a fuse thing. Thanks m8!
So I have a question because I am thinking about buying these for my 2020. The wires you cut in the beginning one of them being the illumination wire, what exactly does that wire do? The pods were definitely illuminated once you turned the car on.
That wire will dim the gauges more when you turn the lights on in the car. I don't ever run the illumination wire so I generally cut it off.
So how is the quality of the AFR gauge working out for you on the long run? Especially the quality of the Bosch 4.9 sensor it came with.
Subbed btw
Looks like a process but I may try this! Hate wiring but want the gauges
Its worth it and honestly not too bad to do 😁😁
Looking to install this on my 2020 WRX. When installing the sensor into the downpipe for the wideband AFR, are you removing a sensor from the downpipe and replacing it with the one attached to the AFR or is there an additional spot for it on either your aftermarket downpipe or the stock one?
It will be an additional spot on the downpipe 🙏
I had a question regarding wide band gauges. Other than the read out for the AP and benefit of E tunes in the future. Is there active closed loop communication occurring between a wide band O2 sensor and the stock ECU. In a meaningful way?
No, however you can wire it to pull data from the wideband instead of thr stock reae O2
Does that AFT package has logging cable included or I have to get it seperately ?
I beilive the X series has it
Now my iWire in-line harness is USELESS, here I am. Damn you EPA....
Good looking out Tanner. 💪🏾
😭😭😭
@@Smeedia They really just knocked us back about a good 10 years lol
Dumb question but, The AFR that you installed, is considered as wide band? because tuner said I need it for STI to do etune
Yessir it is a wideband
Love your videos! Is there anything specific you need to hook up to log the wideband on the AP? Or just install sensor and power? I am E tuning.
Thank you good sir!
Some tuners want you to tap into the data logging feature, if so you'll have to run 1 more wire but I always just use mine as displays for info 🙏😁
There are additional steps to hook up the WB to the ECU but we have a PnP option ruclips.net/video/RmlgQVBaMc0/видео.html
Great video man! Question - how did you remove the bung/plug on the downpipe? mine feels stuck I cant seem to get it out
Thank you! And some PB blaster and a breaker bar. My downpipe was pretty new when I did this so it was not too bad to get off. But I would use PB bladter and a long breaker bar to free it if that wont work use a torch to heat it up a bit
Hey mate
After so much research I was going to finally get the oil pressure and wideband A/F gauge. I originally was going to get glowshifts as my budget is more limited, but I keep getting mixed reviews. Some say trash, some say they are great.
However, I decided to go with AEM but looking at them installed, they seems spazzy to look at, with the numbers flashing. Are they horrible to look at while driving? I don't know if I like the flashing they constantly produce.
Mine dont seem too crazy, I know when you record them they flash on screen because they are LED. Honestly when driving I barley notice them at all
I did a test for with the gauges on my smy pod and it felt loose. Did you mount yours with the hardware supplied? Fit looked super tight
I used the supplied rubber bands, you really got to work them in there 😅
@Smeedia Great vid! Do you have any tips on wiring the illumination for the gauges?
I've never wired them in before but you could use the illumination from any of the stock gauges to tap into🙏
Helped so much the blue and white wires confused me !
Glad that the videos help 😁
Doing a similar install this week. Same pod cluster but going to be putting an oil pressure and oil temp sensor. I hate that the EJ's dont have these very useful sensors. Any particular reason you decided to use the AFR and Boost pods over monitoring on a Cobb AP?
I dont trust the accessport, the info has to go through the ECU then through the Acessport. The AP also reads upstream AFR vs downstream and I prefer to know what AFR is post turbo. As for boost. I just don't trust the acessport lol wpuld rather have a direct gauge to what psi I am getting
@@Smeedia gotcha, thanks for educating me! makes sense.
Does the 04/05 have the grommet behind the fender liner?
Hey how did you get the gauges to fit snugly in the SMY? There doesn't seem to be enough of a lip on the wideband gauge for the rubber band spacer that SMY provides. The Wideband keeps wanting to fall out.
Do you have the slim ones? If so try roubles stacking 2 rubber bands
@@Smeedia that's what I ended up doing, the rubber bands still didn't want to stay so I ended up having to glue the bands down. Thx for the reply man!
Is there a way the AFR 02 sensor can be read by the ECU and logged through the Cobb AP? Im trying to give my e-tuner the best data possible, so I purchased the aem afr wideband, but im reading I need access to accesstuner software in order to log data from the wideband through my ECU. Any experience with this?
forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2805570
🙏
That has the wrote up of how to wire it but you can do it pretty easily
Thanks for taking the time to reply, we know you’re a busy dude!
Did you just use the rubber thing that came with the AFR gauge to hold on it onto the pod? Or did you come up with something better?
Just used the rubber bands that came with the gauges, worked out great 🔥
do these these gauges have a clear lens over the face ?
Hello bro I know this is an old vid , but I will have a 500 plus awhp sti sometime in the future and besides the AEM wideband afr gauge , which in your opinion will be the second most important one to have
(I want 2 only AEM gauges (for now) since a have a dual pillar . THANKS!
Oil pressure, glinf to be a savior to let you know if there are any issues 🙏
How did you get the AFR gauge to match on your accessport
I have a stock downpipe and want to install the AF gauge any tips? Do I have to buy an aftermarket downpipe for an AF gauge?
You can have a bung welded onto the stock downpipe to be able to add a sensor 🙏
Where do you get the gauge mount
I have a wrx instead of the sti, the vacuum port on the head is fine for the boost gauge?
Yes it is
@@Smeedia Thank you!! Very much appreciated, I love your STI
I'm in the process of installing my gauges. I noticed you used a 15a fuse, shouldn't the new fuse me lower than the current fuse?
Should be slightly higher for the add a fuse, have to continue to power the gauge and whatever your tapping into
You recommend the aem gauges Tanner? I’m looking into getting a bunch of gauges. Looking for something that looks like stock gauges but hate mixing looks of different gauges
I love thr AEM ones just not a fan of the Uego sensor they provide
@@Smeedia yea I’m trying to figure out what gauges i Wana use. I’d like to have oil pressure,oil temp, a/f once I’m tuned,boost and coolant. Dono if that will make the interior look weird since there will be 5 gauges. Was gonna use the aem for the a/f and the pro sports for the others i do like the analogue look of the pro sport looks like stock gauges on the cluster
did you have to drill a hole in the center console to pass the harness thru for the boost gauge?
Nope 🔥
miss these kinda intros haha
I totally forgot about this 🤣🤣🤣
I will try the boost gauge first, seems like my Invidia downpipe don't have the O2 connection in that area. Its a catless downpipe.
They have an option for their downpipes to have the extra bung but good luck on thr Boost gauge. Not too bad if an install to do 😁
did you t into the vacuum line or just remove it and replace it with the sensor vacuum line?
Teed onto it 🙏
@@Smeedia Can you drop a link to the tee you used? Thank you so much for the video!
So I'm having an issue. Bren tuning wants me to log the wideband on AP3 but once they send me a tune they want me to go back to narrowband bc of smog laws. Idk how I'm supposed to be able to tie this into the 5v for logging and still swap back to the stock sensor.
I'm not sure on that one, does he provide any documentation of how he wants it wired in? Or he wants you to wire it to wide then swap it over to narrow?
Pretty sure I just saw you check out your own package.
Very possible it could have happened lmao
So I have a question.. If I take my OEM O2 sensor out, and install the one provided by AEM for the AFR gauge, will that make the ECU go crazy?
Yes because your ECU cant see the AFR. You'll need to have a new bung welded on the downpipe for a AFR Gauge
@@Smeedia let's say... I deactivated the factory 02 sensor, could I replace it with the wideband in that bung?
No, the ECU will still need the up stream and downstream O2 sensors. I would suggest getting a bunc welded in for an additional sensor
@@Smeedia okay, thanks!
Hey man did you have to buy the SMY adapters to get the AEM xlines to fit in the cluster?
No sir, just used the rubber bands 🙏
Did you have rough idle when you installed your Cobb BOV? Did it eventually go away?
No rough idle, I use a Bypass valve instead of a BOV valve
Is the AP not accurate enough to monitor AFR's? I take it going directly to the downpipe is more accurate?
It monitors on the up stream ve a dedicated sensor reading downstream
Love your videos they are so helpful, I have a question? My downpipe has the plug all the way to the end of the downpipe. Do I use that one? Or could I use the plug from the uppipe itself?
That should be for your rear O2 sensor 👀
@@Smeedia i know I’m running an o2 sensor from the headers. I just didn’t know there was a second o2 sensor.
Yessir, header is up stream O2 or your narrowband and the downpipe is your rear O2 or "Wide band"
@@Smeedia thanks for the help man.
Question; I had an AEM wideband installed on the top of my HKS downpipe. I also have an Oem oxygen sensor in my equal length headers. What does the oxygen sensor in my header do then? Isn’t it a narrowband sensor? I believe my tuner turned off codes for downstream o2 sensor.. now I’m confused lol. Or, does my wideband that’s wired in have no control over fuel corrections, and it’s just to monitor my engine is running efficiently
Fuel corrections will run between your front and rear O2 sensor, the one in the header will read upstream AFR and the one in your mid pipe will read downstream AFR. The one on top of your downpipe should go to an AFR gauge to read the ratio
Smeedia my AEM wideband is on the top of my DP right after the turbo. It’s wired so I can monitor an actual wideband on my AP AF Sensor 1 ratio. So it has no control over fueling, only for monitoring then I guess
Okay very strange question but how in the hell did you get the AFR gauge to sit into the cluster? I cant seem to figure it out
SMY Gauge Cluster 🙏 like $100 or so
Thorough video, helped me understand a lot! I'm trying to get my AEM AFR to link up with my v3 AP. I was told I would need to connect the AEM to the rear o2 sensor. Does anyone have any guides or instructions for this procedure?
I've seen those ones before but have never used them, hopefully someone can swing in with that one 😖
you need to purchase a special harness to plug into the oem connector and your tuner need to set it up for you.
@@sskwan1 i have the harness and its connected but im still having issues. do you know of a professional source i can chat with to figure this out? ive been at it for over a week now
AEM was fairly helpful when I spoke with them but their turn around time was fairly slow
@@Smeedia okay ill try them
Yo if I was to do a Air fuel gauge now and a boost gauge later would that be a pain in the ass to do all the wiring. Should I just buy them both now? I would run the same SMY gaugemaker.
No you can just tap the Boost gauge in later 🙏
If you’re only running the AFR gauge, how many amps do I need? Just 15 or 10 amp? Thanks in advance!
10amp
Great content..good job..for my 2011 sti use same parts and guages?
Yessir 💪
Hey man. Great video! I’m about to hit buy on my gauges as well! Stupid Question. My tuner wants me to get a Visconti logging cable for the afr as well. Would you happen to know the difference between the cables??
TBH I've never ever heard if the visconti cable.... I would ask your tuner what the reasoning would be. Generally the tuners I've used have always based the AFRs off of the ECU
Have you gotten any information on this? My tuner has suggested the same cable as well.
Corey Stengel hey man, sorry. Just seeing this post. Yep. I’m running it now. Shoot me a message on IG and I’ll tell you more about it. Subi_duo
Yesterday tuner also asked for the same thing, what did you end up having to do?
@@nicolasmcdaniel4452 I ended up hooking everything up. Took my a hot minute to figure everything out. But the Visconti cable is basically for you to plug in the AFR stuff along with the wideband 02. Just a plug and play that doesn’t require any splicing. The only headache was running the wiring into the car for power via fuse box
So when you install the afr gauge how do you log it from the accessport?
I don't, haven't had a need to in the past but you can wire the signal wire from the gauge to be able to do so i belive. I just wanted it as a stand alone gauge to be ablw to read downstream AFR
I plan to keep my 15 STI engine warranty. Would this void it even though they're just monitors?
No it shouldn't 🙏🙏
next time please place the solder gun under the wire then apply the flux solder at the top of the wires, it will heat up and pull the solder through the wires creating a better mate. Instead of just dripping solder over wire.
Great content. I got a question I got a divorce invidia catless down pipe with a single bung. My question is do I have to get another down pipe with two bungs to be able to run the gauge ?
Yes or you can have another bung welded into the downpipe for the sensor to go into
How you connect the sensor to the Invidia?
Of there is not O2 bung you'll need to have one welded in
Thanks thats what ima do
I got the aem x series wideband. Is it the same as these ones you got? Wiring wise.
Same same 🤝
Hey man great content 👌, followed you on IG. @STI_Tanium.
Getting ready to do the oil pressure and boost gauge. Was wondering what fuses were used? You mentioned 10a/15a atm mini fuses right?
They should be the standard fuse size and I believe I used 10 amp, don't remember off of the top of my head 😅 also appreciate the support my man 🙏🙌
Hey love the videos . . I just got a 2013 wrx rally blue . I have waste gate po244 code . twice . has stock headers and down pipe. What can i do to not blow it up . i know maintenance is key .
Your wastegate could be going out, what tune is on the car?
@@Smeedia not sure . feels stock . but donno . just did the #4 cooling mod and a street rays pitch stop mount .
What fuse amp would you use for 3 gauges connected to one? Oil Pressure, AFR and Boost for a 3 pilar??
15 Amp
@@Smeedia Thanks brother!
Does the driverside fender liner wire routing work for the 2008-2014 GV/GR chassis?
Yes 🙏🙏🙏
@@Smeedia thanks! I like how you wired the gauge into the fuse box with a fuse. Thanks for the tutorial
How did you get the gages to stay? I have the sam afr and bezel but the rubber band doesn't seem thick enough
I used the rubber bands that came with the cluster and not the AFR gauge
@@Smeedia OK thanks? It still sloppy on mine with either
Interesting, try doubling up the rubber bands if you can. Mine were a tight fit to get them in
Does it need tune for it?
Hey bro. I know this video is old. I just install my aem boost gauge. Thanks to your video. 💙. My question is. Did u tee the vacc line on the lower driver side manifold? What is on the other end? I see line with a bell looking things. 😂 what is that line for. I still tee if off anyways.
That just goes from the manifold down to the bypass valve 🙏😁
Would the line to the BPV be a good one to Tee into or would the one mentioned in the video be a better option for a boost gauge
I have a cat less setup. I have an upper o2 and lower o2 sensor installed. Where would I be connecting the AEM sensor? Lower or upper or do I need to add a bung?
You'll need to add a bung 🙏
@@Smeedia on which location of the pipe? Upper part near the turbo or lower part?
6" past the turbo on the downpipe 🙏
@@Smeedia Thanks
funny my cobb one has a hex a 10 hex key and that mofo wont budge at all. any tips?
Mine had the same, sprayed some PB blaster on it and came back 30 minutes later. Still tough cause it was slightly rusted.
Do they needed to be soldered or it can be wire not together?
Does not have to be soldered
Do you remember ever having problems with the wideband acting up with how you wired everything up? I’m having trouble with my wideband..
Not with the wiring, what issues are you having?
Hey, my boost gauge is stuck displaying “sens” any tips?
Sensor is bad, contact the vendor and they should get you a replacement
I thought there was a certain distance that you had to install the AFR?
The best is 6" past the turbo, I just utilized the pretty installed bung
Hey was this video on stock headers and what exhaust
Stock headers, Cobb downpipe and ETS Extreme catback 🙏
Where would you put the AFR sensor if you have that top opening on the down pipe?
The pre welded bung on the top of the downpipe 👀
Smeedia Sorry I meant to say if you don’t have it
You can take it to a shop and they can weld one in for you
What were are the blue and white wires for?
Illumination and something else 😅
How hard is it to run the wires to the A pillar??? 2020sti
Not too bad, little tighter on space but definitely do-able
What size add a fuse is that?
I used a 10 amp fuse and haven't had any issues
How do you can datalogger to the ecu?
Unsure, ive never used it before
What is the difference between this aem for sensor vs the x series? Which one is better?
I prefer the normal as it does what I need which is to just read, the X series has programmable options built into it. With the access port you don't really need the features the x series offers
Thanks I’m looking to get a tune done. Would you say it’s mandatory to have an afr for a tune? I have a stock down pipe and there is a kit that uses your fact o2 sensor made by Visconti racing. Basically you install the new sensor and it converts it somehow for your wideband.
I would suggest the wide band as it gives more clarity for the tuner and yourself for what the car is doing. Not needed though for a tune.
Smeedia thank you I forgot to mention I have bigger injector so I assume I’ll prolly need it now. Plus eventually gonna get a downpipe so might as well know that out. Did you have to do anything for the afr system to be logged on the AP? Out of experience do you know and good Etune companies I hear a lot about BrenTuning & dank tuning any thoughts on them?
The ECU should log all AFR it is seeing from. The rear O2 Sensor. Those are all good e tuners as well as drunkman tuning
"Waller soldering iron" oh boy lol, you just pissed off a bunch of electricians.
It's cheap and works for the most part 😅😅😅
Did you datalogging wire up?
I did not, I've never needed to in the past
What’s your exhaust system? Sounds so nice!
It's the ETS Extreme, I've git a video on the exhaust system also 😁
Ahhh I just saw it rn. Definitely looking forward to more videos man!
@@JoseCervantes1610 new videos on Tuesdays and thursday. I appreciate the support!
Pretty sure it clearly says on a turbo application the wideband needs to be installed 36" or more away from the turbo dump to Prevent Premature Failure
I believe its 16", in my case the sensors were duds. Ended up using a Bosch sensor and splicing it to thr pigtail of thE OE AEM Unit and has been solid for over a year
@@Smeedia It's 18" on an NA application and 36" when running a turbo where the exhaust gasses will be a much higher temp
@@Smeedia Was the Bosch unit compatible with the wideband like the 4.9 LSU?
Yeah it was the same senor but diffrent pig tail, just cut and spliced onto the AEM harness
@@Smeedia Good to know thanks
so im confused on why you would need gauges if the ap is already reading boost and afr. explanation maybe?
I prefer having a direct gage vs something that's pulling through the ECU. The AP also only reads up stream AFR vs Downstream
@@Smeedia im a newbie so i dont really understand the differences between what the downstream does that the upstream cant
Upstream reads AFR before passing through the Turbo, downstream reads it post 🙏
@@Smeedia well that i understand that but i heard the upstream one doesnt read well for higher boost bc it becomes unstable. maybe thats why?
When you going to do my gauge
Why wouldn’t you want to have them illuminated? I just don’t see why you cut the other wires off
They Are to dim the gauge when the aux power is turned on. I would rather just have them stay the same. I did not feel the need to wire the remaining two. However; if it is a feature that you want than i would go for it. They relatively easy to wire up.
Smeedia how would you wire up the 2 wires that you cut off? Where would you tap into?
I beilive one is the dimmer and the other is for data logging youd have to find the dimmer switch in the car
No doubt at all means you do a great vlogs all the time and this with clean installation of the gauges!
But there are few things that needed to be focused on for the first timers/new-owners. Something more which I want to know, like --
1. initially when you soldered the wiring of both the gauges, you should have done some unboxing to show how many cables/wires they come with. this is because, in the video you have connected both the wires and then at the time of install(at 8:05) there comes another big wire(AFR harness) which is connected to the O2 sensor.
2. Also, you skipped to show the connection between the harness and the soldered wire(though it is a easy-pezy) as viewers we expect the complete view of it. specially when it comes to wiring which is very important part.
3. Which is more important --> the connection to the gauges!! i believe there a tiny vacuum hose that connects to the boost guage along with the other wiring. you could have shown that over at least after you plugged in all the wires before fixing the pod to your dash.
4. there are few other videos on here that show a different way of installation for the boost gauge itself, where they have connected their vacuum hose sensor with a "T" to the stock BPV, can you please explain which one is more efficient, as I read in a blog connecting to he BPV gives us the most appropriate readings? will be greatly appreciated.
I have been following you on your youtube build vlogs but i haven't seen a FPR installation video(if there is one i might have missed it, lol). I really really hope you do that one soon as all of these mods fall in the same category it will be helpful for people like me.
I hope you get back on this soon bro also correct me if i am wrong at any of these points, I am still learning :) lol!
Thank you.
No worries appreciate the detailed feedback. So Cobb installed the FPR when I got tuned, totally spaced on it so they had to throw it on before the car went on the Dyno but if i can find someone on the area installing one I will try to get an install video of it!
As for the vaccum hose the most accurate reading is going to be if of the intake manifold as it's going to see absolute manifold pressure vs normal vaccum and boost outside if the manifold. There is a free nipple on the lower driver's side of the manifold that can be tapped into to use. With the AEM Gauges there are no vaccum lines going directly to the gauge only the electrical wiring going to the sensor which then transmits over to the vaccum line. But I will definitely keep these in mind for future installs. I've gotten more in depth with a lot of them as compared to some of my older videos 😁
@@Smeedia thank you very much for a quick response. That answers most of the things that i put up. Please do the FPR video sometime soon!
And yeah, i thought i mentioned in my previous comment about the AOS install -- that was a detailed one :D i loved it and will definitely be taking help from that video! Most of your vlogs are detailed, i agree!
Thanks again bro! :)
Good video. I have a question about the vacuum line as well. The one you pointed out in the video is currently being used for my FPR (I have the Perrin FPR installed). Is there another nipple you are talking about thats not being used on the driver side that I just dont see, or am I going to have to cut the vacuum line and install a T-fitting for another output on that line?
You can also pull vacuum from the vacuum line going to the bypass valve. You would have to install a T fitting onto it.
@@Smeedia so is it better to use the T-fitting off the BPV or the manifold line that connects to the FPR?
All bad still trying to understand it. 😞 maybe I’ll watch it a few more times.
O2 sensor explanation I’m getting confused maybe I’m overthinking it??
The wiring and the sauder I get.
Slightly annoying to have to do but the extra O2 sensor really helps, ive seen some people remove the OEM and replace it but then the car runs awful 😢
Put the end of the vacuum hose in boiling water to get the hose on the sensor
Not a bad idea, I normally use a great gun but the water might prevent the hose from melting a little lol
So that nipple is where i connect to my boost line because it already has a hose on it
Got the air fuel one but after awhile it got stuck on the 3 dashs any idea why?
Bad sensor, my recent upload i cover it because it just happened to me too
@@Smeedia damn this is frustrating when its brand new. But okay if its the sensor imma wait to see what subispeed says if not my autoparts store has that boash lsu 4.9 replacement for 50bucks
. Damn are they still holding up?
My Frankensensor is working great, the auto part store sensors work pretty good from what ive seen
@@Smeedia lol thats the one you spliced up from Amazon?
Yessir 😅