Jaguar E Type Series II Engine Water Temperature - Overheating? 2024-06-16
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- I have had my Series II E type on the road now for a short time and I have covered some short trips mixed in with some longer ones in relatively hot weather. The engine water temperature seemed to be running on the high side for my liking.
The car never actually overheated but my steady state engine temperature on the dash-board gauge showed a higher than nominal state.
I checked for obvious issues but found nothing. I decided to create a heat cycle and monitor the water temperature through the cycle, with and without a fitted thermostat. The results showed the temperature to be basically the same with and without the thermostat fitted but above the nominal setting.
The series II gauge has the nominal temperature with the gauge indicator pointed at the 12 to 6 o'clock position defined by two dots. The normal temperature range is identified with NORMAL letters printed on the gauge. In the steady state the pointer should be pointed at the N (12-6 o'clock). In my car it was pointed at the "L" (higher/hotter) when at idle for extended periods.
After a few phone calls and some internet research the consensus seemed to be that this is okay but it seemed to be too high to me.
I added an additional pusher fan to the front of the radiator and that improved things, but the engine water temperature still seemed high.
I then bought an infrared thermometer with a laser pointer and measured water pipe temperature at the radiator inlet and outlet. The temperature measurements bounce around a little when using the infrared thermometer but on average it produced 80-85 deg C for the inlet and 45-50 deg C for the outlet. This shows that my radiator is working, and the radiator inlet water temperature was close to the thermostat setting (82 Deg C). However, the water gauge temperature was still showing an "L" position (higher than nominal).
This suggested that either the gauge or the sensor (or both) were showing a higher temperature than reality.
I decided to buy a new water temperature sensor and the gauge temperature reading then dropped to the nominal position (12-6 o'clock) with the new sensor. Go figure!
Road tests, in hot ambient air conditions (90 deg f) then showed the water temperature on the dash-board gauge to be around nominal when driven in traffic, with the new temperature sensor fitted.
Right now, it appears that my high-water gauge temperature reading might have been caused by the original sensor I had fitted (which was brand new).
The infrared thermometer really helped confirm the water temperature compared to the gauge indication and that my cooling system was working.
I will continue to monitor my engine water temperature but for now I am happy with it.
A huge call out to Huibert and Joe for some thoughts on the results as they were created. A long call with Richard Owen also helped tremendously with what to do and what to check.
This video from "Living With A Classic' was also very helpful:
• Is your Jaguar Overhea...
John, when I rebuilt my Triumph Stag, I used Evan’s Coolant. It is more expensive, however its boiling point is high (>375F) , it is waterless, doesn’t build up the pressure like water based coolants. When I get my Jaguar put together, I plan on putting Evans in that. I am not affiliated with Evans, just like their product.
great to see you are enjoying your car after all the hard work. It is good to see you don't have a serious issue and can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labour with no stress.
John a second comment is the temperature sensors typically work on resistance, if there is any increase in the resistance of the wiring between the probe and gauge it could change the reading. I know all your wiring was new, so there shouldn’t be a problem with any connections.
Some people have shared comments about Aluminium radiators versus Copper and brass radiators. I found a nice article from JEGS about the plus/minus of each type:
www.jegs.com/tech-articles/copper-vs-aluminum-radiators-which-one-should-you-choose/
First thing is that infrared guns don’t give accurate temperatures on shiny surfaces, it’s because of emmisivity, so take your temperature on the black hoses in and out of the radiator. That said, 80 degrees out of the engine is very normal for these engines and it looks like your radiator is doing its job. Every gauge and sender will give you a slightly varied reading, as it’s based on resistance and voltage, which both fluctuate with each device, heat and RPM. Also be careful not to run the engine without a thermostat, thermostats block the bypass once the engine is warm, if the bypass is left open when not using a thermostat or using the wrong one, much of your coolant will bypass the radiator and go thru the water pump. To me, your engine is running normal with no concerns of overheating. Remember 50/50 coolant boils at 100 degrees Celsius, with a 4 psi pressure cap your boiling point is over 110. At 80 degrees, you are very safe!
Hi Ehab,
I like the comment on the infrared thermometer gun temperature measurement being taken on the black hose. I will take a look at that.
The thermostat bypass on my car is permanently open and feeds directly into the radiator next to the top hose connection. In the video you can see the bypass hose connected to the radiator - it is where I took the top hose measurement.
That hose is the air bleed to help bleed air when refilling coolant. The bypass goes back the the pump, look under the thermostat housing
@@EhabSahawneh Ok, interesting. I am going to double check this.
Ok, I see what you are saying. You are referring to the hose that goes back to the water pump from the thermostat housing. While the thermostat is closed the water continues to circulate through the engine.
@@EhabSahawneh Hi Ehab, I have followed up on this and I will make a short video to highlight the points you were making. Measuring the temperature on the black hoses does make it easier to get s stable reading.
Thank you so much for the comments. They were incredibly useful, and I learned several new things from them.
Hi John, do you know at what temperature your fans come on, as far as most posts on forums indicate is that on 85 degc they should come on and go off at around 70 degc. On my S1 3.8 the nominal temp is steady just past the 70 degc mark which I guess equates to the M on your gauge.
Yeah John, I just rebuilt (last year) my engine on my '65 e type and the fan comes on right around 70C. I also upgraded to an aluminum radiator and it seems to be better than the original. I don't have the car ready for the road yet to test it in a driven state. Stationary it doesn't overheat. Today is supposed to be 93 F in Ann Arbor so I'll let it run for a half hour or so and see how it does.
@@stangraff800 Hi Stan, let me know how that goes.
Hi, right now I have my fans on full time. Once I have more confidence with my engine temp being okay then I will switch to the using the temp setting to activate the cooling fans.
@@johncooper6950 I let it idle for 30 minutes yesterday and the garage was 91F. The water temp climbed to the tic mark between 70C and 110C which I think is 90C or 194F. Everything was stable and no boiling over. The rpm was right around 700 with a rev (by me) every few minutes. I think if the car had been moving the temp would have been much lower. At 700 rpm the water pump isn't pumping very much. I'm confident that I shouldn't have cooling problems when I get finally get the car on the road.
@@stangraff800 Very cool!! Keep going Stan, its all worth it in the end!