The plastic separator bowl, cracked on my JD 2520; maybe over the winter ??? JD would only sell the entire assembly which normally runs ~$100; thanks JD. At any rate your video has helped me get oriented with my smaller unit. THANKS !!
You’re welcome. I know what you mean about John Deere, they have been less than supportive when it comes to maintenance. If you ever have a problem with the dpf they won’t even sell you the parts. What should’ve cost $289 cost me $1321. I’ve been trying to get a service manual for this tractor for some time. Once I get the information I need I’m going to make a bunch of videos on trouble codes and fixing them. They just won’t sell me one from JD. I’ve bought a few but they don’t have the information I want. Hopefully I will get some answers soon. Thanks again.
@@pilgrimsgarage I had no idea JD wouldn't sell service manuals for your unit. I bought my 2925 around 2010 and at the time service manuals were available, though, not as helpful as I'd like. Seems like JD should have no problems selling a manual. I believe this would encourage sales when folks like you construct how-to videos to take the mystery out of simple diy repairs.. When I was considering the purchase of my 2520, YT videos on the product helped me go through with the purchase. Again, thanks for your videos!!
You bet. That sediment filter had quite a bit of crud in it. You might be able to drain that first and then check the fuel pump. In other words, drain the sediment filter tank, then turn the tractor on to see if it fills it back up. If it does then you know it’s not the pump. Both filters are a breeze to change and not terribly expensive. Good luck to you and thank you for the compliment.
I have a 2016.... there is a screen located in the fuel tank (at the start of the supply tube) that gets clogged with an algae-type "goop" buildup. I pull the screen, rinse out with hot water, reinstall and PRESTO.. good for another 6 months. (yes, i use a diesel fuel additive to prevent this but it still happens. Good luck.
@@Ugot2BkddnMe I never checked that. You say it’s right at the fuel line? How can one get at it being in the tank? If you can, email me a picture and I’ll add it on here. Seems like great preventative maintenance
@@pilgrimsgarage I'll head to the barn and get you a picture. The supply tube connects to the outlet valve, when you pull the valve (have something to plug the hole because your fuel will drain (i usually make a plug out of a piece of a latex glove. The screen is attached to the opposite end of the valve and is inserted into the fuel tank. Pretty simple fix once you realize how the screen fits.
Once that is done you should hear the fuel pump change it’s tone within a couple minutes. That should indicate the primary fuel filter is filled. Once that is done it might take a couple more cycles of the engine and it will start. Check for leaks once it’s idling and you should be golden.
@@PineyWoodsKenworth crack the bottom of the sediment bowl and drain it. Start from scratch. The electric fuel pump (click clack) should build pressure. If not, you may have to check your primary filter. It sounds like it might be sucking air.
Sometimes it takes a bit of time to get the air out. First, make sure the filter is tight and make sure your sediment bowl has filled up. Be sure to open the shut off valve. Once it gets primed it should start. You’ll be able to hear the “clicky clack” fuel pump change its tune. It took me about 5 minutes for it to prime. It’s not a big deal if you have to prime it again. Keep me informed.
The plastic separator bowl, cracked on my JD 2520; maybe over the winter ??? JD would only sell the entire assembly which normally runs ~$100; thanks JD. At any rate your video has helped me get oriented with my smaller unit. THANKS !!
You’re welcome. I know what you mean about John Deere, they have been less than supportive when it comes to maintenance. If you ever have a problem with the dpf they won’t even sell you the parts. What should’ve cost $289 cost me $1321. I’ve been trying to get a service manual for this tractor for some time. Once I get the information I need I’m going to make a bunch of videos on trouble codes and fixing them. They just won’t sell me one from JD. I’ve bought a few but they don’t have the information I want. Hopefully I will get some answers soon. Thanks again.
@@pilgrimsgarage I had no idea JD wouldn't sell service manuals for your unit. I bought my 2925 around 2010 and at the time service manuals were available, though, not as helpful as I'd like. Seems like JD should have no problems selling a manual. I believe this would encourage sales when folks like you construct how-to videos to take the mystery out of simple diy repairs.. When I was considering the purchase of my 2520, YT videos on the product helped me go through with the purchase. Again, thanks for your videos!!
@wa4aos you bet.
My 2016 3032e has 118 hrs on it. Just died on me. I hope it’s the fuel filters. I’m changing them tomorrow. Thanks for the video
You bet. That sediment filter had quite a bit of crud in it. You might be able to drain that first and then check the fuel pump. In other words, drain the sediment filter tank, then turn the tractor on to see if it fills it back up. If it does then you know it’s not the pump. Both filters are a breeze to change and not terribly expensive. Good luck to you and thank you for the compliment.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thank you. I will do that when I get in.
I have a 2016.... there is a screen located in the fuel tank (at the start of the supply tube) that gets clogged with an algae-type "goop" buildup. I pull the screen, rinse out with hot water, reinstall and PRESTO.. good for another 6 months. (yes, i use a diesel fuel additive to prevent this but it still happens. Good luck.
@@Ugot2BkddnMe I never checked that. You say it’s right at the fuel line? How can one get at it being in the tank? If you can, email me a picture and I’ll add it on here. Seems like great preventative maintenance
@@pilgrimsgarage I'll head to the barn and get you a picture. The supply tube connects to the outlet valve, when you pull the valve (have something to plug the hole because your fuel will drain (i usually make a plug out of a piece of a latex glove. The screen is attached to the opposite end of the valve and is inserted into the fuel tank. Pretty simple fix once you realize how the screen fits.
Did I do something wrong? After I put the filters back on and turned on the valve, only up about an inch on the bottom of the bowl.
No. Turn the ignition on. It will engage the electric fuel pump and fill it up the rest of the way c
Once that is done you should hear the fuel pump change it’s tone within a couple minutes. That should indicate the primary fuel filter is filled. Once that is done it might take a couple more cycles of the engine and it will start. Check for leaks once it’s idling and you should be golden.
@@pilgrimsgarage started and runs on high throttle and dies when being back to idle. What could that be?
@pilgrimsgarage and now I can’t get cranked again. Any tips or tricks there?
@@PineyWoodsKenworth crack the bottom of the sediment bowl and drain it. Start from scratch. The electric fuel pump (click clack) should build pressure. If not, you may have to check your primary filter. It sounds like it might be sucking air.
where did you get the vertical exhaust for a 3032e?
Mine came with it. I didn’t know they had different ones. I’d like to see a picture if you have one.
I think the red o ring floats on water giving a visual.
@@terrypasquali1 if you have water in your sediment bowl, I’m fairly confident you need to drain it. It is possible though.
What a great video!! Thanks
You’re welcome. Thank you for the compliment.
Good video. Thanks
Support that loader when you are working under it, or leave it down. I've seen hydraulics fail and it gives me the willies!
In retrospect I totally agree
Mine wont start
Sometimes it takes a bit of time to get the air out. First, make sure the filter is tight and make sure your sediment bowl has filled up. Be sure to open the shut off valve. Once it gets primed it should start. You’ll be able to hear the “clicky clack” fuel pump change its tune. It took me about 5 minutes for it to prime. It’s not a big deal if you have to prime it again. Keep me informed.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks, I cracked the canister filter and turned the pump on until it flowed out.
That did it.
looks like someone disabled the seat sensor.
The seat sensor only activates if you have it in high or low gear. If you’re in neutral it will turn on without being seated.