I was wondering if I was missing something when I loosened the left filter and fuel just kept pissing out and was afraid to spin it off entirely for fear of a real gusher. But this video was great for seeing that the flow isn't too crazy and you just have to go at and swap the filter while the fuel's draining. Thanks Kelli!
@@Kellislawnservice A technique that worked for me was to spin the left (pre-)filter on just enough to hold it in place, still leaving a gap above the gasket to allow the flow from the filter mount to fill the filter. Once the filter was full as evidenced by full flow volume into the drain pan resuming, I spun the filter on the rest of the way to seal it. I was about to fill the right filter from a fuel can before installing it but started to feel funny about pouring unfiltered fuel in there considering the fact this is apparently the final filter. I also had a hunch this filter is on the pressure side of the fuel pump so decided to install the filter empty. I gave the tractor a few extra seconds to prime itself between turning the key from On to Start, and sure enough it started immediately with no problems. Now I just am wondering how much/fast hydraulic fluid will flow if I try to replace the hydraulic filters without draining the fluid. Deere says the fluid can stay in for 1200 hours if it's tested. I'll probably try and find somewhere to test the fluid as just to be proper, but I suspect it's in good shape since I use the tractor mostly for snowblowing (I have an aftermarket cab on mine) so the system stays clean and for the most part sealed up all season without much chance for water or dirt to get in.
I was wondering if I was missing something when I loosened the left filter and fuel just kept pissing out and was afraid to spin it off entirely for fear of a real gusher. But this video was great for seeing that the flow isn't too crazy and you just have to go at and swap the filter while the fuel's draining. Thanks Kelli!
Thanks , but next time I will fill the filters before reinstalling. Thanks for watching.👍
@@Kellislawnservice A technique that worked for me was to spin the left (pre-)filter on just enough to hold it in place, still leaving a gap above the gasket to allow the flow from the filter mount to fill the filter. Once the filter was full as evidenced by full flow volume into the drain pan resuming, I spun the filter on the rest of the way to seal it.
I was about to fill the right filter from a fuel can before installing it but started to feel funny about pouring unfiltered fuel in there considering the fact this is apparently the final filter. I also had a hunch this filter is on the pressure side of the fuel pump so decided to install the filter empty. I gave the tractor a few extra seconds to prime itself between turning the key from On to Start, and sure enough it started immediately with no problems.
Now I just am wondering how much/fast hydraulic fluid will flow if I try to replace the hydraulic filters without draining the fluid. Deere says the fluid can stay in for 1200 hours if it's tested. I'll probably try and find somewhere to test the fluid as just to be proper, but I suspect it's in good shape since I use the tractor mostly for snowblowing (I have an aftermarket cab on mine) so the system stays clean and for the most part sealed up all season without much chance for water or dirt to get in.
@@RyanRBiggs good idea with the fuel filter, I’ll try that next service. I haven’t changed the hydraulic fluid or filters yet , only at 600ish hours.
Nice tutorial! Thank-you!
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Filling fuel filters is a good idea properly changing fuel filters
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment, we really appreciate it.
Do you have a vid on the Hydro Oil service for the 2032 or 2038?
Sorry, I don’t have that one published yet. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Thanks!
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