It's always nice working in a clean well lit shop... I wonder at what age we start dreaming of a lift and a drain in our oversized, climate controlled garage! looking forward to part 2!
Wish the Very expensive, and not-well-written JD manuals covered everything, and covered it well but they don't. We're forced into a RUclips learning environment, so thank you for your time and knowledge. I'm older and a good mech/maint person but tractors/diesels are all new to me...so trying to learn to do it properly.
I had to bang a screwdriver though the oil filter on my 997 lawn mower. Don’t know what they’re doing out in Japan but they got it really tight. The reason you filter is a plain black is because the filter got painted on the engine when the engine was assembled. I believe yours is a 3TNV88 or possibly a 3tnv82. Very robust engines. All Diesel engines will have a return line. Diesel engines use some diesel to lubricate the injectors themselves and it goes back to the tank. These engines are shut off by a solenoid that essentially does the action of a push pull cable for you. Same mechanics behind it.
Can you fit a 5 gallon bucket under your engine oil pan to drain? what about the other drain plugs... 5 gallon buckets are convenient because your hydraulic oil comes with one!
I would double check. Most Deere equipment including lawnmowers require an initial 50 hour service. Usually listed on a decal under the hood. Otherwise give the dealer a call.
Yeah I just checked, 400hrs for hydraulic filter change, 1200hrs for hydraulic oil on 2018s. Nice they added a quarter turn, no tool side panel removal and hydraulic hood lifters. Going to buy mine next week. I've used a 33" Troybilt snowblower for my 5 acres for the last 9yrs. FINALLY making the plunge on a 3025e. I'm a Wisconsin guy, so year round use will be no problem, not much for trees, but snow removal, long driveway, gravel leveling, a must. Thinking of going with rear remotes to control a snowblower chute, and rear blade. I won't have a bunch of heavy front lifting, so I'm hesitant on the fluid filled tires, when moving snow will have a heavy rear blade or snowblower on, with tire chains. Do you feel the fluid filled tires are a must have? I will be driving on my grass and don't want terribly deep imprints left. Bucket will mostly be lifting snow.
@@ironheadbiker If you go with the R4 tires it will do a good job of floating over soft surfaces. If you go with the R1 tire it will leave some marks on soft surfaces and lawns. By adding the rim guard to the rear tires it will helps compensate for just having the loader on the front. You could always go without and add it later if you need it. If you go without rear ballast you may have to sign a document at the dealer saying you understand the possible risks without having rear ballast. According to the JD 3025e owner manual rim guard by itself is not enough rear ballast for loader work.
Great video. Use a plastic bag around the oilfilter next time and also man please wear gloves. That fluid is toxic and your skin is a organ. Thanks for the upload !
Thanks for your informative vid. I've got 42 hrs on my 3033R. My 50 hr change will be coming up soon.
It comes with the box with the John Deere logo so you’re coming out ahead 🤣👌🏻
Any idea how to change the oil in front axel? Would love to see a video on this. You do a great job.
It's always nice working in a clean well lit shop... I wonder at what age we start dreaming of a lift and a drain in our oversized, climate controlled garage! looking forward to part 2!
Wish the Very expensive, and not-well-written JD manuals covered everything, and covered it well but they don't. We're forced into a RUclips learning environment, so thank you for your time and knowledge. I'm older and a good mech/maint person but tractors/diesels are all new to me...so trying to learn to do it properly.
Same here.
I did the sediment bowl and the fuel filter. I'm still having the tractor shut off..
Do you have any idea on bleeding the fuel line ?
There is a Philips screw that is above the sediment bowl for bleeding air.
This is going to help me when I service my 3038e.
I had to bang a screwdriver though the oil filter on my 997 lawn mower. Don’t know what they’re doing out in Japan but they got it really tight. The reason you filter is a plain black is because the filter got painted on the engine when the engine was assembled. I believe yours is a 3TNV88 or possibly a 3tnv82. Very robust engines. All Diesel engines will have a return line. Diesel engines use some diesel to lubricate the injectors themselves and it goes back to the tank. These engines are shut off by a solenoid that essentially does the action of a push pull cable for you. Same mechanics behind it.
Can you fit a 5 gallon bucket under your engine oil pan to drain? what about the other drain plugs... 5 gallon buckets are convenient because your hydraulic oil comes with one!
A 5 gallon pail might fit under the engine oil drain plug but not the hydraulic plug.
Hopefully you didn't get hydro oil in the main wiring harness like I did, it dripped for 3 months.
Whats the ammo can for?
Tools & chains
Looks like the 2020 doesn’t even recommend a 50 hour service. Rev 10 to the manual. At least I’m not seeing it.
Is it listed on the tag under the hood?
Is the battery easy to get too when jump starting?
Right up front just pop the hood.
2018 model has it listed for 200 hr service. Would you recommend the 50 hr fluid change?
I would double check. Most Deere equipment including lawnmowers require an initial 50 hour service. Usually listed on a decal under the hood. Otherwise give the dealer a call.
John deere advertises the 2018s with extended service intervals. 1200hrs after break in, so I could see the break in at 200hrs
Yeah I just checked, 400hrs for hydraulic filter change, 1200hrs for hydraulic oil on 2018s. Nice they added a quarter turn, no tool side panel removal and hydraulic hood lifters. Going to buy mine next week. I've used a 33" Troybilt snowblower for my 5 acres for the last 9yrs. FINALLY making the plunge on a 3025e. I'm a Wisconsin guy, so year round use will be no problem, not much for trees, but snow removal, long driveway, gravel leveling, a must. Thinking of going with rear remotes to control a snowblower chute, and rear blade. I won't have a bunch of heavy front lifting, so I'm hesitant on the fluid filled tires, when moving snow will have a heavy rear blade or snowblower on, with tire chains. Do you feel the fluid filled tires are a must have? I will be driving on my grass and don't want terribly deep imprints left. Bucket will mostly be lifting snow.
@@ironheadbiker If you go with the R4 tires it will do a good job of floating over soft surfaces. If you go with the R1 tire it will leave some marks on soft surfaces and lawns. By adding the rim guard to the rear tires it will helps compensate for just having the loader on the front. You could always go without and add it later if you need it. If you go without rear ballast you may have to sign a document at the dealer saying you understand the possible risks without having rear ballast. According to the JD 3025e owner manual rim guard by itself is not enough rear ballast for loader work.
I just bought a 2018 3025e yesterday. Dealer advised the 50 hour is no longer needed. First one at 200
Got to have that box sale it to me lol....
Great video. Use a plastic bag around the oilfilter next time and also man please wear gloves. That fluid is toxic and your skin is a organ. Thanks for the upload !