Metal Shavings in Hydraulic Oil!
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- John Deere removed the 50 hour service requirement from the 1025R/1023E in 2018. Should we really wait until 200 hours to change the hydraulic oil?
Our 2018 JD 1025R has 100 hours on it so Tractor Time with Tim decided to change the hydraulic oil and inspect the screen and magnetic.
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Your a Good Guy Tim, lots of patience with hands on attitude, that’s willing to teach others at a slow pace so they understand. Love the Bible phases at the end too.
That’s called “Farmer Tight” it’s similar to “Logger Tight” because god knows the bolt might work loose if it isn’t so tight it’s almost stripped. Hahahaha
Powder River just tighten until you feel those threads give a little bit lol
new equipment will still usually have some small traces of metal from the manufacturing process at the first 25- 150 hour services
where looking into thinking of having a backhoe wich i was looking at the new M62tlb and M6-141 and M7-171 with the 14foot m62 tlb backhoe attachment wich 171hp be the biggest horse power of a backhoe tractor kubota has
I was given a special tool for those type of hose clamps. It makes installing and removing easy. If I knew how to post a picture of them I would.
Hey Tim were those knipex pliers? If so they are the best by far.
There's a special place in hell for folks who overtighten oil filters, or sump plugs, or...anything really.
pro tip.. when changing oil open the filler neck or whatever it is and put a shop vac on it.. turn it on and remove the plug.. not a drop will fall.. make sure its clean around the plug though because you are gonna be vacuuming a lot of air through that hole.. then get out from the bottom and turn off the vac.. now that trick also helps for over filling because you can remove the plug and not loose oil until you want... and if your pan starts to over fill you can stop the oil and never get a drop on your hands or floor.. works for anything you change oil on... just make sure no dirt gets sucked up in the drain plug hole... and anyone reading this thinking the vac will suck up the oil I can assure you it doesn't unless the engine is filled all the way to the filler tube...
Doug Decuir that’s a trick used to patch leaking tanks too.
On the hose with the clamps, why don't you use vise-grips to hold open the clamps? That way you reposition the clamps then release. Just a suggestion. Love your videos!!
My strap wrench bails me out when my 10+ filter wrenches don’t work. It gets the stuck filters that were so tight they stripped the socket mount ones without crushing them, or driving a screwdriver through them.
I have an oil filter socket wrench style cup that works on a 3/8 inch socket wrench. I wouldn't ever want to use anything else (such as your rubber strap wrench).
funny story about those pliers.. we had a 1000 gallon water tank in the front yard at the shop that someone stole the pump off of.. they one next to it they tried to take the pump off of but the bolts were stuck.. the thieves left that exact same pair of kinpex pliers on the ground where the were trying to take the second pump.. absolutely love those pliars... only wish the ones we have didn't cost 500 bucks.. lol
Tim, Excellent video! Please buy a Milwaukee M-18 Fuel High Torque impact wrench. It is truly a beast. I DID and my pneumatic impacts are no longer used. 😇 GOD BLESS 🙏😊
Stop it, Tim!!!!! don't tell people they can do their own service! Mother Deere will slap you with a lawsuit..... haha I hate how manufacturers are making machines unserviceable to the average man and intimidate mechanics so people feel like they have to use the dealers.
Tim, I do not own a tractor & I'm a 87 year old female & thought this was great info???? Keep up the great work for us little people.
Possibly the best commend ever on RUclips. [Chris]
Tim, can't thank you enough for all the maintenance videos you've made & posted here on RUclips. They make life a little easier when it comes time to tackle the maintenance on my 1025r. You make the audio/video darn near perfect & I'm sure it isn't easy to do in those tight spaces. Thanks again & have a great day!
Thanks for the kind words!
That sounds not good tim
Those small JD tractors are crap engineering. Real PITA to service.
Do you plan to make the same comment on all of our videos?
@@TractorTimewithTim The videos I've watched of yours are servicing your 1025. It appears to be a real engineering nightmare. No thought of ease or service. You are always having to remove panels, jack up the machine, take off wheels or do some disassembly to get to routine grease fittings and other service points. That is sign of poor engineering.
Milwaukee guys; My cordless Milwaukee M18 FUEL could have broken that loose.
I love your maintenance videos and refer to them for my Johnny.
I hate those clamps I always replace them with the screw on type hose clamps
I see this video was published WAY out of sequence. You still had the plastic on your seat and the pallet racks had not been installed along the wall yet. 😁
Yep. Nor was the wall painted. We sometimes have out of order episodes, as they may not be important for a specific time. For example, "Farm Progress Show" episodes needed to be released soon after the show, or folks get confused.
Something like this can be delayed.
Given the amount of editing and other work that we do, Christy is usually swamped. We simply cannot get all of our videos published as quickly as we would like. It gets even worse this time of year because we are doing more projects in the rush before winter. ...on the positive side, we should have a few episodes queued up for winter time :-)
Oh, please don’t misunderstand, I was not criticizing just being observant. Can’t wait to see the barn transformation!
Your a brave man using your tools over that oil pan. Guarantee mine would jump out of my hands asap and I to the oil.
Ah, worst case, I fish it out :-)
Rite. Plus they won't rust
Patience and attention to detail are good advise. Take a sec and think about what your trying to do before acting, will usually pay off in the end.
...and if need be, take pictures BEFORE you rip it all to pieces and can't figure out where the doohickey goes...
Good video. Enjoyed watching it. 👍
I use an oil pan with a solid top. It has a drain cap. It needs to be clean to use in out fleet center boiler..replaced the clips with a SS hose clamp.
Another great video! Thanks again. I’ve had my 1025 about 6 months now and I frequently reference your videos. One question: what causes the metal shavings in the fluid that the screen catches?
Small shavings off the gears and some shavings left over from manufacturing.
No worries!
Hi Tim love your maintenance videos 👍🏻 I have a question for you did you do this at the 100 hour or 200 hour ? After watching your video i checked my manual and it said to change the oil at 200 hours ??? What’s your thoughts on this ?
I discussed this in the video. 100 hrs.
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
wow really i thought 5 gal would be 5 gal for weight. id understand if it was oil and butane. because butane is a lighter fluid.
Before I bought my 1025r earlier this year, I spent a lot of time watching your videos, still spend a lot of time watching them. Thank you for being so informative. I love that you aren't crazy and dramatic with your videos. Refreshing that people can still make RUclips videos without getting silly. Thanks for all you do sir!
I appreciate your comment. We need it. The 'crazy/dramatic' videos often get more views. We're trying to 'stay the course' with our informative yet entertaining approach.
I have those same pliers and they are nice! Great lighting and camera positioning on a difficult to shoot video Tim.
Those Knipex pliers (and their mini bolt cutters that are the size of diaganal cutters) are really great!!
MBarton I have several Knipex tools.. they’re simply the best out there.. costly yes....
@@bradhill5822 Oh yeah knipex are expensive but worth every penny.
Tim would or should I wait to do 200hr service??
My mom's Kubota is so so so much easier to service than my John deere😢
How old is this video? I noticed the plastic is till on the seat!
Yep. You are right!
Thank you for the informational video.
I have a 2017 model and tried the trans service without rear wheel removal yesterday. I wont ever be doing that again.Much easier to just remove the wheel. What made it so aggravating was the almost impossible task of wrestling with those hose clamps.Never again.
Those hose clamps are no fun…
Saw the filter wrench you DIDN'T like...can you link one that we should purchase for a 2018 1025R?
Good question. I don’t have one selected right now. I should do that!
I use an oil filter pliar's. They are the best thing for any filter I have ever used.
I Don't use a strap wrench, metal band wrench, or filter cup or even a screwdriver anymore!
This would have been a good time to trade those spring hose clamps for screw type hose clamps.😉
B Laquisha screw type loosen over time.
I used to feel that way too and then over the years I've read about how spring type clamps actually provide more even pressure around the entire circumference of the hose. The screw type creates a pressure point where the screw mechanism is located. This can be especially risky on plastic fittings like modern radiators. So now I'm not so quick to replace factory clamps with screw-type.
Never had that problem.
@@lowercherty I have a personally experienced a screw camp come completely loose and was leaking my trans fluid from the radiator. the part was replaced with the improper clamp. BMW uses a one time use crimp clamp that NEVER comes loose. Who ever did the repair did do it right but using the wrong clamp and leaking everything out. had i not noticed it would have leaked everything out of the trans and bye bye to that car.
Constant torque hose clamps work better.
At 12:05 That's a great little strap wrench, maybe not for filters. I've got 2 of them. Toolbox and Kitchen. Great for removing caps and lids. (Yes, I'm over 60) The kitchen one stays in the kitchen for use on food containers and not dirty garage uses.
Metal shavings in any oil is never a good thing. Just cleaning it out is not a solution. If a parking lot is full of drywall nails and every tire goes flat, do you just keep patching the tires?
This is ‘normal’ for this model tractor
I'd take your used oil Tim i use a used oil furnace to heat my shop over here near Kokomo
Come and get it!
former Deere Service Manager. It seems loader work is what causes all the debree in the oil. With only 4 gallons of oil I would change it more often and always clean the screen . About 600 hours and pumps are usually on the way out.
My tractor hold 14 gallons also. My wife just pickup a 5 gallons oil pump from Harbour Freight today. My new seat is blocking my filler plug for funnel. So the pump with a nozzle will help.
Tom is right. I have some of those pliers.
Another fantastic video Tim. My 50hr mark is soon approaching on my new 2025R. I have watched all of your videos. I'm going to give it a try and do the service myself, Thanks to your vids. I'll let you know how it goes haha ;) Thank you again Sir. I know the manual is saying to do this in the first 100 hrs but/// Amen
I couldn't watch, buy this at my Amazon store, buy that at my Amazon store, unsubscribed.
Ok. First time I have mentioned the amazon store in months.
I even explained in the episode that I don’t care if you buy or not. Rather, I just point to the store so that you can be sure you are getting the tool you are seeing.
Anyway, so be it. Impossible to please some folks.
You must have watched, he didn't mention the pliers until close to the halfway point..........
tim it's a law that any place who sells oil has to take back the used oil. here in new york our superstores wal mart sams auto zone all take clean used oil back to burn for heat a waste oil burner witch is free heat i know used oil burners are pricey about double the price of gas or oil and they do burn a lot more oil where i worked for 20 years they had a lot of heavy equipment and big trucks so they had plenty of oil to go around in our body shop witch was 200x 500 we had two 450,000 BTUs and they burned right around five gallons an hour being the 18 foot door was always going up to let in the next driver right up on the garbage trucks or over the road 18 wheelers but they also had 20 huge cat ethnal run engines to make electricity that got oil changes every 24 hours being the ethnal was dirty and they ran full rpm all day they had dry sumps where the oil was stored in a container next to motor and was pumped in and out as it ran just like gm corvette or NASCAR cars they known as dry sump engines
I did mine last weekend and like you have said, the clamps going back on the hose was the worst part. I left the backhoe on didn't help any but not that bad. Thanks for your how to videos.
I just did 50 hour change and there was alot of shavings. When I put the magnet in the hole, it was loaded! What's a normal amount?
If it's only $90-100 for the parts, seems to me to be good advice to not skip the 50 hr service. There's always 'leftovers' after something is assembled/run for the first time.
Plastic still on the seat? C’mon Tim!
this episode is out of order. Katriel has already let me have it for leaving the plastic on too long. Did you miss that episode? Pretty funny, actually!
🟢So enjoy your videos.!!! Very informative.!!!🟢 ®️
There is a cable plier tool that works well on those hose clamps keep on going #diy
Tim, my old 2305 has a 90 degree hose to the screen which is real difficult to remove and replace. 1025R looks much easier, thanks for showing your fluid change.
What's your view on the "right to fix" fight some farmers are having with John Deere. Asking cause you have background in software and farming and I think it's interesting. I don't hBe a dog in the fight
In theory, right to repair seems important. In practicality, farmers do not want to be ‘hacking’ on their $400,000 tractors. They want them to work! They want the dealer to be able to quickly diagnose and repair when there is an issue.
So far, on the family farm with the large equipment, we are seeing improved response times (many diagnostics done over the phone), more accurate diagnosis (less unnecessary parts purchased and replaced), etc. The electronics are making the farmer more efficient.
If folks were tweaking the software, how would one diagnose issues? Is the software change to blame, or is it a real issue?
So, I see both sides, and I’m not really concerned based on what we are seeing in the real world.
I think what you said makes sense. If John Deere wins, I wouldn't want to see that standard trickle down to simpler equipment or procedures is all I'm thinking. Thanks, I enjoy the show.
I sent my 1025R to the dealer to do the 50 hour service and they did not change the hydraulic oil, so I sent it back to get it done. They do recommend changing the filter after the first 50 hours. Deere has been very unclear on this. The dealer says they have NEVER changed the hydraulic filter at 50 hours. I mainly sent it to the dealer because the unit is under warranty and I don't want problems if something happens. Also, that is a lot of oil to get rid of.
Deere removed the 50 hr service requirement in 2018.
@@TractorTimewithTim Except they still call for it on their maintenance diagram.
@@On_The_Farm only on model year 2017 and earlier.
You did not say what transmission oil you used? Reg HyGuard or low vis
low vis.
Did my 50 hr hydraulic fluid change today had 60 hrs on it. I was concerned about the screen being in put in correctly. I watched your videos and you did not take a lot of time with that part the book said it had to be done a certain way but i had no problem getting it back together. I read the part about the screen being parallel as you put it back and making sure it was seated after I had put in a gallon of oil and debated draining it but did not. . I had no trouble with the manifold going back on so I think I will be ok I hope.
I really enjoy your videos and your family is adorable and don't worry about people leaving you rude comments most have no idea what they're talking about your great 😀
I did the 50 hr this past weekend. No backhoe makes the job easy with vice grips to hold the lower clamp open while removing the hose to get the screen out. Screen was surprisingly clean. Your videos where a big help.
Tim, I am just now at 50 hours on my 1025R. Still watching the oils series, but I recall you discussing the serial number and tractor identification, where was that or is there a chart online to help me identify my tractor? I got it used and it is supposed to be a 2018 but I want to verify. Did the 2014 have a different maintenance schedule? Thanks!
Yes 2014 had 5 hr requirement. I still think good to do that.
Serial number discussion is in our ‘new 2019 1025r’ episode
Those strap type oil filter wrenches are amazing, problem is you have the cheapest one. Buy a quality one, you will see a HUGE difference.
Tim I ran into the same issue you did with the 6 mm Allen head bolt except worse for my 50 hour oil change. I tried to loosen the bolt, even used a cheater bar no budge. Finally had to throw in the towel and hauled the 2018 1025 to the dealer. Took the dealer three guys one with a cheater bar, one with a pair of pliers and the last tech pushing the Allen head socket in to make sure it didn’t strip. There comment to me was why would JD want to basically weld this bolt in. It went on there hall of fame for bolts. Good news the 200 hour change should now be a snap in the future.
40 seconds in, and calls his tractor Johnny like 5 times
Welcome to our channel.
We try to avoid taking ourselves too seriously.
Tip.....Don't wipe down the screen! What happens when you do those metal particles can damage the mesh and even clog it. What I do is hold the screen in a 5 gallon bucket and use high pressure air. Before you start to blow it clean place a rag over the bucket so you won't get oil all over you. When most of the oil is gone then you don't need the rag over the bucket and you can finish up spraying it clean.
From what I was told is that "small fragments are totally normal for the first few oil changes" mine had bigger chunks of metal as well as excess sealant and so on...
But after 1117hrs of almost constant "normal fragments" I'm now changing the hydrostatic transmission because of horrible performance when it's being used in a 50f+ day!
Interesting. What do you mean by ‘horrible performance’?
@@TractorTimewithTim the trans becomes extremely loud, it vibrates the machine and forward & reverse is just horrible. Especially when I use the backhoe, it really strains and vibrates with a horrible "brrrrrrrrrrr" noise and vibration
Ugh! 1025r, right?
Did this start all of the sudden, or gradually get worse?
I'd have thrown away those spring clamps that go on the hydraulic hose and replaced them with the stainless steel, worm gear clamps; much easier to work with.
On the oil, Most all auto parts stores will take used oil for recycling. I've never asked in Lebanon (I work in the business Park there), but the ones in Mooresville do, so I don't see why the ones in Lebanon wouldn't.
My grandpa was a machinist and a lot of times he would drill holes on end of oil plugs. Then he would use some sort of glue in the hole and press a magnet in there.. I usually either stick a magnet on the oil filter housing, sometimes on a oil pan or transmission housing, close to oil plug hole. But magnets are only good for steel, doesn't help with yellow metals like brass.
Good video Tim... yes I agree most maintenance issues are not all that complicated, just be patient and take your time while saving $$$ at the same time, plus getting to know your equipment better.
Tim, Harbor Freight(and others I would assume) sells a hand actuated bucket pump for around $15. It can be a bit delicate since it has enough pressure capacity to part the draw straw/piston cylinder from the o-ring assembly which can be a pain in the butt to get back together since everything will be coated in hydro fluid or oil. But it makes loading oil into gear boxes and reservoirs a significantly cleaner and more user friendly experience.
At 14:15 The easy way to measure 4 gal. is to fill a 1 gal. jug with oil and what's left in 4 gal.
At least the filter is protected being up under the frame unlike my 2305 . Just had to go through this two weeks ago after putting a hole in the filter while brushoging.
Can't you flush the screen and magnet housing with a quart of clean hydraulic fluid before reassemble?
You need to get a milwaukee m18 high torque impact wrench, no air hoses and tons of power!
I find that you are able to have a good variety of subject matter. I can imagine that the work you have to do to keep a channel interesting can become difficult at times. Great job!!
Thanks for the kind words, Jan!
I’m getting ready to do mine. Thanks for the very helpful how-to video.
Hi Tim,
Excellent Video!
I have often times added a light film of white grease on the inside of rubber hose ends to facilitate getting back on easily.
A flexible magnet for retrieving items works well to take a drain bolt out once its loose. Keeps your hands out of the oil, especially with hot engine oil.
I did my 2016 1025r at 100 hours it didn’t hardly have any metal are trash on the screen are magnet
That's typical for a hydraulic system that never had oil changed. Drill and tap shavings. Also other machinings
Looks like an old video ...didn't you remove the plastic from the seat in a older video?? Good info as always
Tim, you should really get a box of disposable nitrile gloves when doing any kind of fluid changes. It makes a helluva difference come time for cleanup and the skin on your hands will appreciate it.
I don't have a JD 1025R/1023E, but this was a good how to. Does the tractor only have one hydraulic filter? I know on the HST version of my tractor, they have one for the HST and one for the rest of the hydraulics. They both use the same oil. This is on a compact tractor, not a sub. Keep up the good work helping people with the maintenance of their JD.
there is only one pump/filter, etc on this tractor.
Little bit of crap in the oil after 100 hrs should not bug ya.
Small tip use a center punch to put a small hole in filter let drain while you clean screen no mess when you change filter
I came here for a completely different problem but stayed as I really enjoyed your explanation even though it has nothing to do with my hydraulic issue. Thanks
Welcome. Check out some of our other videos!
Tim, when sliding hose clamps on a rubber hose, spray the hose with some sort of lubricant. makes the metal clamp slide with ease. no need to struggle with it and use a screw driver on the back end.
Did you add oil to the filter seal?
After watching your video a few times,I decided to remove the screen in my 1025R - Taking the compression clamps off the house was frustrating to say the least - It took me 3 hours of wiggling and giggling and swearing to get those two clamps off the hose - in the end I'm glad I removed the screen as is was pretty clogged up - also, I replaced the housing that holds the screen to the oil reservoir as it was cracked where the HEX bolt goes - must have hit a rock due to the low ground clearance of the 1025R - don't have nicely groomed pasture like your video shows - Thanks for all your videos - sure helps a retired Dr.maintain his toy -- RS ( Rockpyle27) An added note - to make removal of the screen a lot easier, is to remove the 14mm bolt that holds the upper upper part of the hose to the main part of the oil reservoir - this enables the whole assembly to move in ANY direction eliminating the need to remove the cowling over the PTO or the plate beneath - A shout out to the woman who is 87 for watching your video and does not even have a tractor ??
Thanks for the comment! Once I got pliers that fit, the compression clamps are easier to handle!
We really need to do some fluid changes in our 425. It’s been a while since we’ve done it last.
i done hydrulic fluid change and oil change on our kubota wich took me 5 mintues to do wich pretty quick
@@michaelmactavish1728 If you were able to do either a hydraulic or engine oil and filter change in 5 minutes I would call Guinness immediately as that would clearly be a world record. It takes longer than that to do an oil change on my push mower. :-)
Yea, Joe, you can’t pay any attention to Michael. He just loves to say false stuff about how great Kubota is.
Michael obviously is an arrogant idiot. Great job, Tim, thank you for all of your helpful and straight-forward videos.
Thanks for sharing tim!!!well done. Keep up your good work!!🔩🔧🔨
On my equipment with filters that are horizontal and hold oil in them I get the drain pan underneath and then poke the filter with a small punch and let the oil drain out of the hole for an hour or so. That way when you unscrew you don't get a big mess down the block or in your case the rear end.
I've have personally seen METAL shavings IN oil sumps of BRAND NEW equipment coming down the line & going in boxes, you guys would be smart to change the oil in EVERYTHING within a few hours of running OR stick a vacuum hose in the sumps of such BEFORE anything.
Numa Newbern that's a completely normal side effect of new gears meshing together. That's why the old manuals suggested a 50hr service. It's just a natural part of wear in on metal on metal equipment
Seeing you do the maintenance on your tractor reminds me that I need to work on both of mine and get the oil and hydraulic fluid changed on one tractor and checking the center lift bar on both of the tractors to make sure that they can be moved easily.
I’d want to flush that inside where the filter was, I say this because some sediment may not be magnetic and could still cause wear issues if left unchecked.
I see Josh at Stoney Ridge Farms got to try the new Ventrac. Still wanna see the power rake in action though. Autozone, Advanced Auto, O'Reillys a lot of auto stores do recycling of oils.
we've shown the power rake in many episodes. should be a few more coming up yet this fall.
Did you wrap you seat in plastic? Good idea.
Just an fyi: nothing works better as a fire starter than old hydraulic oil. Just flammable enough to start easy but not so flammable it’ll explode. Basically somewhere between gas and diesel.
jarrid haase it’s very hard on certain kinds rubber, VB ( bunny ) boots the military use to use for extreme cold would get ruined if hydraulic oil got in them.
Hey Tim have u ever had a draw bar on your three point hitch attachment so u could lift and lower it, just an idea for ya. Keep the great videos coming
I do not like draw bar on 3 point. There is a safety hazard. The 3 point hitch will 'pop up' with no way to control if the load becomes back heavy. ...say if a trailer is attached, and becomes heavy in the rear, the trailer will tip rearward.
Anyway, not a fan.