Thanks for a great video. I like the old Suzuki 800 design because the exhaust valve is much easier to service. The CTEC 800 makes equal or less power than the zuk. No advantage to this design. The CTEC 600 is NOT like this. I have a 2019 ZR 8000 with 2500 miles. I have not cleaned the exhaust valves yet. Your tutorial will help me greatly.
Im not sure it's that easy to remove the bracing on an 18 on the clutch side but now im gonna look. Also be super careful when you pull the pin the piece it goes into on the inside doesn't rotate because you may have to pull the cylinder if it does.
Excellent video. I’m going to be doing the top end on my 18 800 this summer. I’m thinking if I remove the mag side cylinder first I can take the cap off the opposite side on my clutch side cylinder allowing me to avoid removing the primary clutch. BTW My machine has 12,000 kms and I never had to touch my exhaust valves until this winter when my exhaust valve cable broke on a trip and the dealer said the valves still looked relatively clean.
What kind of oil do you use? I’ve had a exhaust valve gum up at 3000 miles using arctic cat ctec oil. Also unless your sled has a low compression test I wouldn’t worry about the top end yet. I have one with 7500 miles, still perfect. My dealer has seen them with 10,000 miles still testing great. They said unless it drops don’t touch it.
For oil I just use whatever kind of oil the gas station sells. Usually conventional oil. I only use my machine on week long or more rides and I refuse to carry oil. I do add a little extra oil to the gas as insurance though. About 100/1. My engine was still running fine when I took the top end off but it has endured a LOT of full throttle operation as most of the guys in our group including myself are retired pro motocross riders and we tend to run the sleds very hard.
I think the inside secondary valve rotated the pin will push all the way thru. Any thoughts on how to get the pin in the slot on the inside secondary valve without pulling the cylinder?
How far do you push pin in thru the valve when reassemble it to make sure it fits in the slot on the part that open/closes valve. That way it’s in the slot far enough to operate?? Thank you
Most modern sleds have a self cleaning mode on the exhaust valves. So you really don’t have to all that often. Some people do every summer or 1000 miles or so.
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 could gummed up exhaust valves be the issue why my sled idles but wants to die when you hit the throttle over half? But if you blip the throttle a handful of times you can eventually get WOT 1800kms
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 yeah I had the servo replaced twice. The original servo was junk then they put a new one on. Ran amazing then an hour into our ride they came back on and it wasn’t fun. Then had it fixed again this summer. Ran great from my deck to my garage. Took it out to wash it then started it and codes came back up again. What would u suggest?
That is super frustrating. I’d make sure both cables are functional, move the valves freely and are adjusted properly. Sounds like you could have a wire harness problem, seen a few of those on the cats.
![02 Arctic Cat ZR 600 EFI Series Part 4: Apv's [How to Clean Power Valves]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RSFN1iQst1o/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for a great video. I like the old Suzuki 800 design because the exhaust valve is much easier to service. The CTEC 800 makes equal or less power than the zuk. No advantage to this design. The CTEC 600 is NOT like this. I have a 2019 ZR 8000 with 2500 miles. I have not cleaned the exhaust valves yet. Your tutorial will help me greatly.
Im not sure it's that easy to remove the bracing on an 18 on the clutch side but now im gonna look. Also be super careful when you pull the pin the piece it goes into on the inside doesn't rotate because you may have to pull the cylinder if it does.
Appreciate this information, very helpful
Think you
Thank you very much this was super helpful
Thanks for viewing!
Excellent video. I’m going to be doing the top end on my 18 800 this summer. I’m thinking if I remove the mag side cylinder first I can take the cap off the opposite side on my clutch side cylinder allowing me to avoid removing the primary clutch.
BTW My machine has 12,000 kms and I never had to touch my exhaust valves until this winter when my exhaust valve cable broke on a trip and the dealer said the valves still looked relatively clean.
What kind of oil do you use? I’ve had a exhaust valve gum up at 3000 miles using arctic cat ctec oil. Also unless your sled has a low compression test I wouldn’t worry about the top end yet. I have one with 7500 miles, still perfect. My dealer has seen them with 10,000 miles still testing great. They said unless it drops don’t touch it.
For oil I just use whatever kind of oil the gas station sells. Usually conventional oil. I only use my machine on week long or more rides and I refuse to carry oil. I do add a little extra oil to the gas as insurance though. About 100/1. My engine was still running fine when I took the top end off but it has endured a LOT of full throttle operation as most of the guys in our group including myself are retired pro motocross riders and we tend to run the sleds very hard.
I think the inside secondary valve rotated the pin will push all the way thru. Any thoughts on how to get the pin in the slot on the inside secondary valve without pulling the cylinder?
How far do you push pin in thru the valve when reassemble it to make sure it fits in the slot on the part that open/closes valve. That way it’s in the slot far enough to operate?? Thank you
Roughly how many km's before exhaust vavles need servicing?
Most modern sleds have a self cleaning mode on the exhaust valves. So you really don’t have to all that often. Some people do every summer or 1000 miles or so.
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 could gummed up exhaust valves be the issue why my sled idles but wants to die when you hit the throttle over half? But if you blip the throttle a handful of times you can eventually get WOT
1800kms
I do mine every 2500-3000 miles
Would this fix a P1639 and P1640 code? Just put a new servo on it and of course this happens 2 days before my trip
Did it have the codes before you replaced the servo? Those two codes have to do with power to the servo.
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 yeah I had the servo replaced twice. The original servo was junk then they put a new one on. Ran amazing then an hour into our ride they came back on and it wasn’t fun. Then had it fixed again this summer. Ran great from my deck to my garage. Took it out to wash it then started it and codes came back up again. What would u suggest?
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 could it have a bad connection in the harness by chance?
That is super frustrating. I’d make sure both cables are functional, move the valves freely and are adjusted properly. Sounds like you could have a wire harness problem, seen a few of those on the cats.
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 yeah it’s been frustrating especially since the dealership just kinda gave up on it and keep telling me to buy a new sled