My 2022 Godzilla just turned 20 k . I have sent 2 oil samples to Blackstone . Both reports came back totally normal without any metal particles. Great video.
I've never worried about voiding warranty on any vehicle because I used different oil. As long as it meets or exceeds the factory specs. I do like your idea of video documentation. I've always used a spread sheet to document but the video is an even better idea.
Suggestion for you, when you drain the oil pan, wait for it to pretty much stop, then put the plug back in, move your pan under the filter and remove the filter, now replace the filter after the oil stops dripping. Once filter replace go back to your oil pan and take the bolt out again. You will be amazed at how much comes out. Then let drain, put the bolt in and then put the recommended amount in. Also, another suggestion, get a FilterMag, it's magnet that sits on the outside of the oil filter. If you every ran 5k with the filtermag on, and then take the filter off and cut into it, you will be glad you ran it.
Interesting suggestions! I've never removed the drain plug out again after removing the oil filter. But I will certainly try that the next time! I've also been considering getting a Fumoto drain valve to replace the plug - but see pros and cons to having it. The Filtermag, I've never considered - so I'll look into that too! Thanks for the ideas and leaving a comment.
I don't think it would void the warranty using a different oil and filter. But I do know that some manufacturers can be really particular about their products, so if they said yes, I wouldn't be surprised. The best thing to do is contact them. Some cars like Corvettes recommend Mobile One, and they post it right on the oil fill. I've personally never had any issues with the particular oil and filters I've used....yet. 😊 Thanks for sharing Chad!
I do think it would be difficult to deny a claim based simply on brand of oil/filter used (as long as it met the required specifications). But I'm also sure that there are some instances where it could be problematic. Thanks for watching! Have a great weekend.
I called, and they said I had to wait till the vin is added to the list. They said maybe next quarter it will be added meanwhile I could be damaging my engine. Ive been a ford guy along time but this is probably my last. 5 years making this engine and still issues they won't fix.
I personally love valvaline oil, my dad purchaced a 2005 suburban 2500 with the 6.0 brand new in late 2004. He ran only valvaline in it from new and changed the oil religiously with valvoline, i purchased it from him with 320k miles and change oil religousely with valvaline and drove it to 413k miles everything major was origonal except had a tranmission at 290k miles. At about 390k i started to notice abnormal oil consumption, at 413k i finally decided to rebuild the motor because it was burning about a quart every 250 miles. When i got the motor apart, the bearings were very nice for the age, some light copper showing on the rod and main bearings but the crank journals were all still beautiful, also little to no varnish coloring, it still looked brand new inside other than carbon buildup on valves and pistons. There wasn't even hardly any carbon buildup on piston rings. The cylinder walls were worn but not excessive at all, i measured the cylinder walls, decided to just dingleball hone the cylinders and install new piston rings, and bearings, and took the heads to be gone through at my local machine shop. The truck now has 467k and is still running and driving beautifully.
That's great to hear! I have seen a lot of Suburbans that have stood the test of time. You're almost at 1/2 million miles! Keep it up!! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
I have the 6.7 powerstroke and use Rotella T6 5w-40. It meets the Ford spec and is a superior oil to the Motorcraft oil. But I use strictly Motorcraft filters (oil and fuel) and follow the Severe Duty maintenance intervals on my truck.
Thanks for sharing! I used to use only the Motorcraft filters as well - but I like the filter material used by Amsoil better now that I’ve done a comparison of the construction.
Excellent point. We actually have sent our oil away twice for analysis. Here are the videos with the results: Oil Analysis #1: ruclips.net/video/0Vnw725ZYAo/видео.html Oil Analysis #2: ruclips.net/video/8uNVBdBSjs4/видео.html
I understand your concerns to have such 'sword of Damocles' with those failures. To help the engine last longer: try to change the oil sooner than the interval provided by the manufacturer, especially if you do short trips. Perform the oil change with the engine hot if possible. When I do my oil change, once the old oil has nearly finished (and the old filter removed), I put a good quart of new oil and let it drain: it helps to remove additional residues from the pan.
Thanks! Mark at Amsoil talked with me recently about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Prior to Mark explaining it to me - I hadn't heard anything about it.
Just My opinion, but I find it hard to fathom that Ford could Successfully deny a claim for not using their oil vs any that met spec's. I change mine every 3k-4k miles with fully synthetic oil. After its refilled I press the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over until I have full oil pressure. IT WILL NOT start with the pedal to the floor. Oil is now in the filter and has circulated. I have a '21 7-F350 with a 7.3l no issues. I did ask the service mgr at the dealership about the lifter issue a couple of years ago. He indicated they had only a few and all on the chassis mounts not p/u.
I hear the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a really good oil. You should try it on the next oil change. I’m gonna use it when I change the oil on my dad’s car.
Thanks for watching! I've used a variety of different oils over the years - Wolf's Head, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobile 1, and Castrol mainly. But of all the oils I've tried, I've been the most impressed with the Amsoil. It's a great product.
The 7.3L cam and lifter failures you have been hearing about have been in the 300hp chassis cab version of the engine. Not the 350hp or the 430hp used in your F350. The difference is the variable output oil pump calibration used. The 300hp version is tuned for fuel economy. this includes reducing the output settings of the variable oil pump, thereby lessening the load on the engine and improving the economy. When Ford realized the reduced oil output was insufficient to properly lubricate the cam and lifters, causing many premature failues, instead of curing the issue, they just discontinued the 300hp variant. Problem solved, uhm, unless you happen to own one….
@@PurpleCollarLifeThe oil pumps aren’t different, the software is different. The oil pumps are variable displacement and only deliver the pressures the pcm commands.
I've done that a time or two myself. One time - I actually STILL couldn't get the filter off, and nearly tore it in half with the screwdriver when trying to twist it. I was pretty scared that I'd be having to call someone to help me out - because I wasn't sure what my plan was if the filter wouldn't come off once I mangled it. There would be no way to re-fill with oil and run it even to get to a garage. Thankfully - the filter eventually came off. How many miles do you have on your 6.2 now? Any issues?
Geez we get it the temperature is warm at night. That is an average summer evening in Louisiana where it feels like you are swimming in a warm bath tub because the air is dense with moisture. Good video otherwise.
I’m working on editing that video this week. It’s been interesting with this new truck - the differences between the new technology and the transmission in our old F350.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act protects you from rogue dealerships telling you that you must use their product(s). As long as the oil you use meets the factory specs, you are absolutely golden. FYI … use those mechanics disposable gloves. Used oil has a lot of bad shit in it, save your health. Amsoil is a superior product, but very spendy.
@@PurpleCollarLife A few years ago I had to educate a service mgr in a large dealership over a warranty claim that they were trying to avoid paying because I did not use their oil. They even went so far as to say that because I change my own oil, that I don’t have absolute proof that my oil was being changed per the mfg recommendation. I shut them down on that argument by saying "ok, so prove to me that I have not been changing my oil on schedule." I finally prevailed after I told them I’m not playing anymore of their games and will take legal action if necessary. Needless to say, I no longer do business with that dealership.
Thanks! Great tip about the gloves. I used to wear them all the time for oil changes. I've found that my RUclips videos are hard to shoot when wearing the gloves. The touch screen controls and record button don't react to the gloves. :)
I think you are good with the warranty. I been putting motor craft full synthetic and I don't like that oil cap either. I bought a step that hangs on the tire helps alot. I would like to hear about the transmission as well.
The tire step is a great idea! I'm going to look into one of those. Transmission update coming up soon. The video has been shot, and I'm editing it. Wouldn't you know it - as I'm editing the video, I thought of another key point I need to add in. :)
Install a Fumoto drain cock. Much easier than taking the pan plug out . I worked in a fleet that we used for 25 years before I retired. I've used 1 in my 01 7.3.
I've been considering the Fumoto drain. But I've been a little worried about the potential for a small stick or something to turn that valve and let the oil out when it wasn't meaning to. Have you ever seen that happen?
@@PurpleCollarLife my truck has had one for 11 years and the fleet company I worked for has had them since 87 , when I retired they had around 10,000 truck's. I've never seen or heard of one coming open.
Thanks for watching! That teak is on my list of things to do. I’ve used the Meguiars Gold Teak Oil in the past. It looks beautiful after about 10 applications. But it wears off very quickly. I’m trying to find something that I can put on that lasts a bit longer. Any favorites?
The Duke says, I don't think engine problems with this motor have anything to do with the oil. There are even racing cams that people buy for hot rods that delaminate and destroy the engine rapidly. My belief is that whoever is supplying camshafts worldwide to whoever buys them like Ford Ram n Chevy.,is selling cheap crappy cams made of crappy material and not following good manufacturing processes. For example the hardening process may not be done properly. Lots of things can go wrong when manufacturing a cam if you don't follow proper procedures and use proper techniques. My theory is if you get a bad cam you going to get bad results. Irregardless of whether it's a Ford a Ram or a Chevy or anything else. Just my two cents. What did I teach you?
I just picked up a 2024 F350 7.3 Godzilla ive got 297 miles my dealership took care of me i got in writing and contract as long as i own the vehicle i got a lifetime guarantee on the motor and trans so it was a win win feeling blessed ☺️ 😊 🙌 😇 🙏 😊😊
I would change the oil every 4 to 5000 miles, not the ford recommended, So many engines are failing due to insufficient oil changes, this is all manufactures. The direct injection engines are the worst for sledging up.
I think if you read the fine print, you'll see that AMSOIL does NOT meet the Ford spec, they use wording like: "suggested for applications that call for for spec ABC123". Not "meets Ford spec ABC123". That's a big difference. EDIT, I just looked it up on AMSOIL's website. It says exactly this: "Use AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil in applications THAT REQUIRE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING SPECIlCATIONS".... Note that AMSOIL is famous for this tricky wording. They save a ton of money as a corporation by not getting their products tested by the API etc. They do their own testing. Do they make bad products? No, their oil is a great product as evidenced by much 3rd party testing. All I am saying is you are wrong when you say their oil MEETS Ford's standard. Technically, it does not and your warranty is in jeopardy in my opinion.
I’ve found the Amsoil products to be superior to any other ones I’ve used in the past. I like that they work directly with high-performance manufacturers to make lubricants that work better than other brands. I always like reading the latest news and info on Amsoil.com. I’ve just recently been catching up on their blog posts - very informative. I appreciate brands that are transparent and have educational posts, while constantly updating the products to make a great product even better for today’s complicated machinery. www.amsoil.com/performance-tests/
Yep, I just checked it and you are absolutely correct. Amsoil does not state that it meets the Ford spec, just that Amsoil recommends this oil for applications requiring oils meeting the Ford spec. And you are also correct, if the manual calls for an oil certified as meeting a particular API spec, this particular Amsoil product would not qualify (although some other Amsoil products do). Not saying that these aren't fabulous products. Just that if someone is a stickler for only using products that absolutely, positively meet the manufacturer's requirements in black and white, there might be an issue here.
Blackstone Labratories in Indiana is an awesome company you can always send them a sample of your used engine oil to see how healthy the internals are doing. Did it for my 2011 Ford Ranger 2.3 I run pennzoil ultra platinum / Or Valvoline .....I have seen tons of virgin oil samples and those two oils are the best on the market. I stay away from expensive oil like ams oil or redline ect..... your just paying for the name.
Thanks for watching. I've had Blackstone do oil analysis on our Godzilla oil twice now. Here were the results: 1st analysis by Blackstone: ruclips.net/video/0Vnw725ZYAo/видео.html 2nd analysis by Blackstone: ruclips.net/video/8uNVBdBSjs4/видео.html
Thanks for the info! I hadn't heard about this act until Mark, the Amsoil distributor I get my oil from at Clovis Lubricants talked with me about it. www.clovislubricants.shopamsoil.com/
Good question. I’ve read conflicting reports on how often that crush washer should be replaced. Some people say “every time you change the oil.” Others say that it’s not necessary unless you see damage or are replacing the oil drain plug. I fall somewhere in the middle. I don’t replace it every time - but probably once every couple years, unless I see a reason to before then. I’ve actually never seen one go bad.
You couldn't pay me to own any truck 2006-up in GM or Dodge and 2004-up ford ALL JUNK!! I don't care how many miles you have bla bla bla DOD and ford triton and godzilla motors are junk. And their DOD coyote are junk too same with their diesel junk too!
I'm curious what you'd buy for a 1-ton truck if you needed one to tow heavy (like our 5th wheel) or haul material heavier than a 1/2 ton can legally tow? Since Nissan and Toyota don't make a 1-ton version of a heavy-duty truck, the big three are really the only option.
My 2022 Godzilla just turned 20 k . I have sent 2 oil samples to Blackstone . Both reports came back totally normal without any metal particles. Great video.
Glad to hear that you've been getting good results in your oil analysis. Thank you for watching and sharing.
I use pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 full synthetic and really like wix xp filter. I have a 24 6.8 litre v8 I love it
I've never worried about voiding warranty on any vehicle because I used different oil. As long as it meets or exceeds the factory specs. I do like your idea of video documentation. I've always used a spread sheet to document but the video is an even better idea.
Thanks!
Suggestion for you, when you drain the oil pan, wait for it to pretty much stop, then put the plug back in, move your pan under the filter and remove the filter, now replace the filter after the oil stops dripping. Once filter replace go back to your oil pan and take the bolt out again. You will be amazed at how much comes out. Then let drain, put the bolt in and then put the recommended amount in. Also, another suggestion, get a FilterMag, it's magnet that sits on the outside of the oil filter. If you every ran 5k with the filtermag on, and then take the filter off and cut into it, you will be glad you ran it.
Interesting suggestions! I've never removed the drain plug out again after removing the oil filter. But I will certainly try that the next time! I've also been considering getting a Fumoto drain valve to replace the plug - but see pros and cons to having it. The Filtermag, I've never considered - so I'll look into that too! Thanks for the ideas and leaving a comment.
I had the Fumoto plug on a Ranger when I drove 85 miles (total) 5 days a week. I always seem to drop the plug in the pan. Sure simplified the task.
I don't think it would void the warranty using a different oil and filter. But I do know that some manufacturers can be really particular about their products, so if they said yes, I wouldn't be surprised. The best thing to do is contact them. Some cars like Corvettes recommend Mobile One, and they post it right on the oil fill. I've personally never had any issues with the particular oil and filters I've used....yet. 😊 Thanks for sharing Chad!
I do think it would be difficult to deny a claim based simply on brand of oil/filter used (as long as it met the required specifications). But I'm also sure that there are some instances where it could be problematic. Thanks for watching! Have a great weekend.
There is a PCM oil pump pressure software update from what I've read. Call ford, you are supposed to have it done for free.
I called, and they said I had to wait till the vin is added to the list. They said maybe next quarter it will be added meanwhile I could be damaging my engine. Ive been a ford guy along time but this is probably my last. 5 years making this engine and still issues they won't fix.
This is great news! I'm going to look into it.
I personally love valvaline oil, my dad purchaced a 2005 suburban 2500 with the 6.0 brand new in late 2004. He ran only valvaline in it from new and changed the oil religiously with valvoline, i purchased it from him with 320k miles and change oil religousely with valvaline and drove it to 413k miles everything major was origonal except had a tranmission at 290k miles. At about 390k i started to notice abnormal oil consumption, at 413k i finally decided to rebuild the motor because it was burning about a quart every 250 miles. When i got the motor apart, the bearings were very nice for the age, some light copper showing on the rod and main bearings but the crank journals were all still beautiful, also little to no varnish coloring, it still looked brand new inside other than carbon buildup on valves and pistons. There wasn't even hardly any carbon buildup on piston rings. The cylinder walls were worn but not excessive at all, i measured the cylinder walls, decided to just dingleball hone the cylinders and install new piston rings, and bearings, and took the heads to be gone through at my local machine shop.
The truck now has 467k and is still running and driving beautifully.
That's great to hear! I have seen a lot of Suburbans that have stood the test of time. You're almost at 1/2 million miles! Keep it up!! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
I have the 6.7 powerstroke and use Rotella T6 5w-40. It meets the Ford spec and is a superior oil to the Motorcraft oil. But I use strictly Motorcraft filters (oil and fuel) and follow the Severe Duty maintenance intervals on my truck.
Thanks for sharing! I used to use only the Motorcraft filters as well - but I like the filter material used by Amsoil better now that I’ve done a comparison of the construction.
Ditto. Same on my 2016 f-250 powerstroke. Always rotella t6 5w-40 and motorcraft fuel and oil filters.
Good idea to check the filter. You can always send in oil for analysis too if you're that worried. I don't think it costs much.
Excellent point. We actually have sent our oil away twice for analysis. Here are the videos with the results:
Oil Analysis #1: ruclips.net/video/0Vnw725ZYAo/видео.html
Oil Analysis #2: ruclips.net/video/8uNVBdBSjs4/видео.html
I understand your concerns to have such 'sword of Damocles' with those failures. To help the engine last longer: try to change the oil sooner than the interval provided by the manufacturer, especially if you do short trips. Perform the oil change with the engine hot if possible. When I do my oil change, once the old oil has nearly finished (and the old filter removed), I put a good quart of new oil and let it drain: it helps to remove additional residues from the pan.
Thanks for watching! My latest oil analysis shows that I can take advantage of the extended interval Amsoil.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
You should be good as long as the oil meets or exceeds oem requirements
Thanks! Mark at Amsoil talked with me recently about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Prior to Mark explaining it to me - I hadn't heard anything about it.
Just saw your post on the fb group, just sub'ed. Keep cuttin!
Thanks for the sub!
Amazingly, most applications will fall within the extreme conditions criteria, watch those recommended intervals.
Thank you for watching! I feel much better now that I'm using a really good quality oil and oil filter.
That oil is good . I had the rubber gasket but I didn't see it what a big mess it was.
Thanks!
Just My opinion, but I find it hard to fathom that Ford could Successfully deny a claim for not using their oil vs any that met spec's. I change mine every 3k-4k miles with fully synthetic oil. After its refilled I press the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over until I have full oil pressure. IT WILL NOT start with the pedal to the floor. Oil is now in the filter and has circulated. I have a '21 7-F350 with a 7.3l no issues. I did ask the service mgr at the dealership about the lifter issue a couple of years ago. He indicated they had only a few and all on the chassis mounts not p/u.
I hear the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a really good oil. You should try it on the next oil change. I’m gonna use it when I change the oil on my dad’s car.
Thanks for watching! I've used a variety of different oils over the years - Wolf's Head, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobile 1, and Castrol mainly. But of all the oils I've tried, I've been the most impressed with the Amsoil. It's a great product.
wow, 95 here in Louisiana and I don't see anyone crying :)
You’d see me crying if I was in Louisiana. :)
@@PurpleCollarLife You both are too funny!
The 7.3L cam and lifter failures you have been hearing about have been in the 300hp chassis cab version of the engine. Not the 350hp or the 430hp used in your F350. The difference is the variable output oil pump calibration used. The 300hp version is tuned for fuel economy. this includes reducing the output settings of the variable oil pump, thereby lessening the load on the engine and improving the economy. When Ford realized the reduced oil output was insufficient to properly lubricate the cam and lifters, causing many premature failues, instead of curing the issue, they just discontinued the 300hp variant. Problem solved, uhm, unless you happen to own one….
Amazing info, thanks so much!
Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize that the oil pumps were different in the different variations of the engine.
@craigg4246 that helps put my mind at ease.
@@PurpleCollarLifeThe oil pumps aren’t different, the software is different. The oil pumps are variable displacement and only deliver the pressures the pcm commands.
@@JohnDiMartino I see. Thanks for explaining!
I just did the oil on my 2016 6.2 today and couldn’t find my strap wrench. Good old Phillips screwdriver and a hammer never did me wrong in a pinch!
I've done that a time or two myself. One time - I actually STILL couldn't get the filter off, and nearly tore it in half with the screwdriver when trying to twist it. I was pretty scared that I'd be having to call someone to help me out - because I wasn't sure what my plan was if the filter wouldn't come off once I mangled it. There would be no way to re-fill with oil and run it even to get to a garage. Thankfully - the filter eventually came off.
How many miles do you have on your 6.2 now? Any issues?
Geez we get it the temperature is warm at night. That is an average summer evening in Louisiana where it feels like you are swimming in a warm bath tub because the air is dense with moisture. Good video otherwise.
I wouldn't be able to live down there. Thanks for watching!
Looking forward to hearing about the transmission update.
I’m working on editing that video this week. It’s been interesting with this new truck - the differences between the new technology and the transmission in our old F350.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act protects you from rogue dealerships telling you that you must use their product(s). As long as the oil you use meets the factory specs, you are absolutely golden. FYI … use those mechanics disposable gloves. Used oil has a lot of bad shit in it, save your health. Amsoil is a superior product, but very spendy.
Thanks! I wasn't aware of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act until Mark from Amsoil explained it to me.
@@PurpleCollarLife A few years ago I had to educate a service mgr in a large dealership over a warranty claim that they were trying to avoid paying because I did not use their oil. They even went so far as to say that because I change my own oil, that I don’t have absolute proof that my oil was being changed per the mfg recommendation. I shut them down on that argument by saying "ok, so prove to me that I have not been changing my oil on schedule." I finally prevailed after I told them I’m not playing anymore of their games and will take legal action if necessary. Needless to say, I no longer do business with that dealership.
helpful suggestion: wear some nitrol gloves to help keep as much oil off your skin as much as possible. Good video!
Thanks! Great tip about the gloves. I used to wear them all the time for oil changes. I've found that my RUclips videos are hard to shoot when wearing the gloves. The touch screen controls and record button don't react to the gloves. :)
I think you are good with the warranty. I been putting motor craft full synthetic and I don't like that oil cap either. I bought a step that hangs on the tire helps alot. I would like to hear about the transmission as well.
The tire step is a great idea! I'm going to look into one of those. Transmission update coming up soon. The video has been shot, and I'm editing it. Wouldn't you know it - as I'm editing the video, I thought of another key point I need to add in. :)
@PurpleCollarLife my transmission has been good but down shifts hard. I going to see if they can update the computer. 21 7.3
Install a Fumoto drain cock. Much easier than taking the pan plug out .
I worked in a fleet that we used for 25 years before I retired. I've used 1 in my 01 7.3.
I've been considering the Fumoto drain. But I've been a little worried about the potential for a small stick or something to turn that valve and let the oil out when it wasn't meaning to. Have you ever seen that happen?
@@PurpleCollarLife my truck has had one for 11 years and the fleet company I worked for has had them since 87 , when I retired they had around 10,000 truck's.
I've never seen or heard of one coming open.
ams oil is fantastic product
Yes it is! I’m very impressed with everything I’ve used from Amsoil
Would it be easier to pour from the driver side fender area?
That's a good tip. I'll try that next time.
You need some teak oil on your ski boat swim platform. Please, it is just a suggestion. I know you take excellent care of your vehicles and boats.
He mentioned that when he changed the oil in that boat.
Thanks for watching! That teak is on my list of things to do. I’ve used the Meguiars Gold Teak Oil in the past. It looks beautiful after about 10 applications. But it wears off very quickly. I’m trying to find something that I can put on that lasts a bit longer. Any favorites?
Thanks!
The Duke says, I don't think engine problems with this motor have anything to do with the oil. There are even racing cams that people buy for hot rods that delaminate and destroy the engine rapidly.
My belief is that whoever is supplying camshafts worldwide to whoever buys them like Ford Ram n Chevy.,is selling cheap crappy cams made of crappy material and not following good manufacturing processes. For example the hardening process may not be done properly. Lots of things can go wrong when manufacturing a cam if you don't follow proper procedures and use proper techniques. My theory is if you get a bad cam you going to get bad results. Irregardless of whether it's a Ford a Ram or a Chevy or anything else. Just my two cents.
What did I teach you?
I just picked up a 2024 F350 7.3 Godzilla ive got 297 miles my dealership took care of me i got in writing and contract as long as i own the vehicle i got a lifetime guarantee on the motor and trans so it was a win win feeling blessed ☺️ 😊 🙌 😇 🙏 😊😊
I would change the oil every 4 to 5000 miles, not the ford recommended, So many engines are failing due to insufficient oil changes, this is all manufactures. The direct injection engines are the worst for sledging up.
Thanks! I think running this high-quality oil will really help.
People are dead set on 10,000 miles cause the manuals says so.. you can kiss longevity goodbye if you are doing that , doesn't matter which oil
Nighttime tempretures here in Central Texas is right around 75+ degrees.
That's still a little warmer than I'd like - but that's not as high as I imagined central Texas being. Thanks for sharing!
@@PurpleCollarLife I get used to it every year. BTW I grew up in Bethel Park Pa and still have family in Washington County.
I think if you read the fine print, you'll see that AMSOIL does NOT meet the Ford spec, they use wording like: "suggested for applications that call for for spec ABC123". Not "meets Ford spec ABC123". That's a big difference. EDIT, I just looked it up on AMSOIL's website. It says exactly this: "Use AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil in applications
THAT REQUIRE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING SPECIlCATIONS".... Note that AMSOIL is famous for this tricky wording. They save a ton of money as a corporation by not getting their products tested by the API etc. They do their own testing. Do they make bad products? No, their oil is a great product as evidenced by much 3rd party testing. All I am saying is you are wrong when you say their oil MEETS Ford's standard. Technically, it does not and your warranty is in jeopardy in my opinion.
I’ve found the Amsoil products to be superior to any other ones I’ve used in the past. I like that they work directly with high-performance manufacturers to make lubricants that work better than other brands. I always like reading the latest news and info on Amsoil.com. I’ve just recently been catching up on their blog posts - very informative. I appreciate brands that are transparent and have educational posts, while constantly updating the products to make a great product even better for today’s complicated machinery. www.amsoil.com/performance-tests/
Amsoil is the best you can get period.
Yep, I just checked it and you are absolutely correct. Amsoil does not state that it meets the Ford spec, just that Amsoil recommends this oil for applications requiring oils meeting the Ford spec. And you are also correct, if the manual calls for an oil certified as meeting a particular API spec, this particular Amsoil product would not qualify (although some other Amsoil products do).
Not saying that these aren't fabulous products. Just that if someone is a stickler for only using products that absolutely, positively meet the manufacturer's requirements in black and white, there might be an issue here.
Ill use motorctaft filters but i use whatever oil
Amsoil is def a top end oil no doubt. That said you are better off using a regular oil and changing it more often than what the factory recommends.
Thanks for watching! As quickly as I put miles on, I'd much rather change the oil less often. :)
I don’t change mine
Thanks! Do you always have a Ford dealership do it? Or do you take it to a mechanic's garage?
Blackstone Labratories in Indiana is an awesome company you can always send them a sample of your used engine oil to see how healthy the internals are doing. Did it for my 2011 Ford Ranger 2.3 I run pennzoil ultra platinum / Or Valvoline .....I have seen tons of virgin oil samples and those two oils are the best on the market. I stay away from expensive oil like ams oil or redline ect..... your just paying for the name.
Thanks for watching. I've had Blackstone do oil analysis on our Godzilla oil twice now. Here were the results:
1st analysis by Blackstone: ruclips.net/video/0Vnw725ZYAo/видео.html
2nd analysis by Blackstone: ruclips.net/video/8uNVBdBSjs4/видео.html
Check out the Magnusn-Moss Warrenty Act.
Thanks for the info! I hadn't heard about this act until Mark, the Amsoil distributor I get my oil from at Clovis Lubricants talked with me about it. www.clovislubricants.shopamsoil.com/
Used motor oil is not the best hand lotion. Wear some gloves, man. Thanks for the content.
Great point! The problem with gloves is that I'm constantly removing them to turn the camera on and off, and adjust the positioning and focus. :)
How come you didn’t replace the crush washer?
Good question. I’ve read conflicting reports on how often that crush washer should be replaced. Some people say “every time you change the oil.” Others say that it’s not necessary unless you see damage or are replacing the oil drain plug. I fall somewhere in the middle. I don’t replace it every time - but probably once every couple years, unless I see a reason to before then. I’ve actually never seen one go bad.
@@PurpleCollarLife If you look closely you will see the plug only has a built in rubber seal.
@@DaleSands Thanks!
Typical Ford. They design a great engine but mess it up with a variable oil pressure pump that goes too low and destroys the cam and lifters.
WTF?
I hope that there is a solution for long term. We really like this truck and the 7.3 engine!
No
Thanks!
Gas oils have no lubricity or wear additives anymore. Use diesel oil, you'll thank me.
You couldn't pay me to own any truck 2006-up in GM or Dodge and 2004-up ford ALL JUNK!! I don't care how many miles you have bla bla bla DOD and ford triton and godzilla motors are junk. And their DOD coyote are junk too same with their diesel junk too!
I'm curious what you'd buy for a 1-ton truck if you needed one to tow heavy (like our 5th wheel) or haul material heavier than a 1/2 ton can legally tow? Since Nissan and Toyota don't make a 1-ton version of a heavy-duty truck, the big three are really the only option.
Reduce the chance of 7.3 failure by avoiding towing like that jet ski at 2:40.
I’m not sure what you’re saying. That jet ski is light weight and is hardly noticeable. And - these trucks are made for towing.
@@PurpleCollarLife ;)