Just come Across your videos as have just bought a old terrace in Newcastle and found a bit dam on the wall, lifted the floor board and wall is soaked below, so just trying to find what's causing it. I'm learning a lot and just subscribed 👍
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW been on hands a knees for a couple of hrs found air brick holes blocked at bottom due to a 100 years of shite from cavity falling down I think. Just need to render wall as I hacked the damp stuff off. Any advice? Thanks
Just a little tip when I board/render up against a exsposed chimney breast. I run a lenght of dpc on the brick side then butt board/ render up to it and also skim up to dpc. Two benefits , one if there is any moisture in the exsposed bricks it can't leach on to the gypsum based product. Two it keeps the bricks Clean.. 😉 then just cut off when done. . You might already do this 👍💪 keep up the good work
you prolly dont care but does anyone know of a method to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Jamari Bishop Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
So I can just stick pir board to the external wall using foam. Or will I need to batten it out first. I read that you need a gap behind the pir board. Is this true? I would rather just stick it straight to brickwork. Would this be ok?
Do you have good/bad opinion about using the metal 'mushrooms' to fix insulated plasterboard to walls? Using the plastic caps to stop cold bridging doesn't seem like the best process. Would you recommend a better solution? Using bonding adhesive isn't always possible with small rooms. Clients don't want to lose anymore space in the rooms. Thanks in advance. Information in your videos are very helpful.
@@dampsam Ha, sorry I took it for granted that they were called mushrooms everywhere..... Metal insulation anchors/fixings is the name of them. Shaped like a metal mushroom. A round white plastic cap is inserted on the top to stop cold bridging. Really doesn't seem to be a great way to stop cold bridging. The white plastic caps are very cheap and brake all the time.
Hi Simon, would this method work for kitchens where cabinets need to be fixed to the walls after? I see you use no mechanical fixings so just wonder if the insulated plasterboard could hold wall units?
Hey Sam, I would be more than happy help get you some magnesium oxide/ versaliner boards to you 6mm, 8mm & 12mm availability for sample, or try SIG distribution 👍 happy too help been watching your videos for my own renovation.
I think the problem is the cement render.......traps.moisture.........warm air hits the cold surfaces condenses but then trapped and cannot get out through the cement render Take that off
Adventures with the little one that’s a fair point and a good guess. Moisture doesn’t get trapped. It goes through any fabric except glass as a gas ( water vapour) it condenses when it hits its due point and this depends on lots of factors including how dense the fabric is, thickness, air pressure and temperature, I could go on but I think you get the picture.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW yes cement render cement pointing and gypsum all of which are not breathable.......the gas changes to liquid at dew point to which if the material used were breathable such as lime plaster and lime pointing this can breathe escape whereas cement Materials trap moisture and overtime ruin old buildings brick and stonework it’s absolute fact
Excellent video Simon. Genuine guy
Thanks Nick
Just come Across your videos as have just bought a old terrace in Newcastle and found a bit dam on the wall, lifted the floor board and wall is soaked below, so just trying to find what's causing it. I'm learning a lot and just subscribed 👍
Great stuff, glad you got some value, make sure the subfloor ventilation is adequate 👍
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW been on hands a knees for a couple of hrs found air brick holes blocked at bottom due to a 100 years of shite from cavity falling down I think. Just need to render wall as I hacked the damp stuff off. Any advice? Thanks
@@thomasjackson1494 without seeing the job and walls I can’t really say but good luck with it. 👍
@@thomasjackson1494 air bricj blocked would be n issue if you got a wooden floor.
Just a little tip when I board/render up against a exsposed chimney breast. I run a lenght of dpc on the brick side then butt board/ render up to it and also skim up to dpc. Two benefits , one if there is any moisture in the exsposed bricks it can't leach on to the gypsum based product. Two it keeps the bricks Clean.. 😉 then just cut off when done. . You might already do this 👍💪 keep up the good work
you prolly dont care but does anyone know of a method to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Gabriel Damian Instablaster :)
@Jamari Bishop Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Jamari Bishop it worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
@Gabriel Damian No problem :D
Sam I need your advice on bridgeing and cold spots etc. Could I contact you?
Dampsam@thedampshow.co.uk
Can thermal insulation board e.g K118 be fixed to an internal painted wall that is free of moisture. Presume the paint doesn't need to be striped off?
I’d have to see the job to make that call
This is a great solution to solid walls being cold and wet. Would an airbrick not help bring some fresh dry air in ?
andrewb113 air bricks are ok but they let cold air in creating cold spots , a paddy fire vent is better which is an insulated air brick.
Or tell the tenants to open the windows from time to time
Stephen Gunner that is great advice but seldom done by tenants.
Tenant or otherwise. If you keep heating the house and then opening the window 🪟 to bring in more clod air.. where is the sense in that?
So I can just stick pir board to the external wall using foam. Or will I need to batten it out first. I read that you need a gap behind the pir board. Is this true? I would rather just stick it straight to brickwork. Would this be ok?
Using Drygrip leaves a small cavity and keeps it off the wall
Call video can't wait for the next one👍
Do you have good/bad opinion about using the metal 'mushrooms' to fix insulated plasterboard to walls? Using the plastic caps to stop cold bridging doesn't seem like the best process. Would you recommend a better solution? Using bonding adhesive isn't always possible with small rooms. Clients don't want to lose anymore space in the rooms. Thanks in advance. Information in your videos are very helpful.
Hi, I’m not sure what you mean by metal mushrooms, excuse my ignorance
@@dampsam Ha, sorry I took it for granted that they were called mushrooms everywhere..... Metal insulation anchors/fixings is the name of them. Shaped like a metal mushroom. A round white plastic cap is inserted on the top to stop cold bridging. Really doesn't seem to be a great way to stop cold bridging. The white plastic caps are very cheap and brake all the time.
Hi Simon, would this method work for kitchens where cabinets need to be fixed to the walls after? I see you use no mechanical fixings so just wonder if the insulated plasterboard could hold wall units?
Hey Sam, I would be more than happy help get you some magnesium oxide/ versaliner boards to you 6mm, 8mm & 12mm availability for sample, or try SIG distribution 👍 happy too help been watching your videos for my own renovation.
Hi Kara, send me an email with the details of the boards, might be worth a look dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com
Damp Sam, greetings from mildly moist Ben 😂😂😂😂👍
Hi MMB, greetings back 🤚
I think the problem is the cement render.......traps.moisture.........warm air hits the cold surfaces condenses but then trapped and cannot get out through the cement render
Take that off
Adventures with the little one that’s a fair point and a good guess. Moisture doesn’t get trapped. It goes through any fabric except glass as a gas ( water vapour) it condenses when it hits its due point and this depends on lots of factors including how dense the fabric is, thickness, air pressure and temperature, I could go on but I think you get the picture.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW yes cement render cement pointing and gypsum all of which are not breathable.......the gas changes to liquid at dew point to which if the material used were breathable such as lime plaster and lime pointing this can breathe escape whereas cement Materials trap moisture and overtime ruin old buildings brick and stonework it’s absolute fact
epic video thanks for the info
Who's the damp person you are on about
I can’t really say ,