Insulated Plasterboard Makes It Easy!
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- In this video I am installing insulated plasterboard to some single skin exterior walls that had no cavity and therefore no insulation. Our main aim is to keep the inside faces of the walls warm to prevent condensation and mould or mildew forming.
How We Resolved Our Damp, Condensation & Mould Issues: • 8 Steps To Fixing Damp...
Charlie DIYte's Insulated Plasterboard Video: • How to Dot & Dab Insul...
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i agree wholeheartedly with your comments about professionals Keith, when you get someone with pride in their work it makes a world of difference. Hope the insulation is holding up and you don't have any damp/condensation issues.
Using the laser to mark the windows, genius! Great job
good job, brother.... I like your final comments about learning from your mistakes. A neat thing I like about watching DIY stuff on RUclips, is that commonly people will admit mistakes and how they learned from it (them), and what they "should've" done. Months ago, I shared a neat saying w/ my wife, wanting to impress her, "commonly, people learn from their mistakes. Wise people learn from the mistakes of others." She turned her head and after a moment says "and fools don't learn from either of them." Hartley (garden grove, CA)
Love this book! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
Hi Keith, I really enjoy your videos! But while I understand its important to learn from mistakes of the past, it is well documented that by not flank insulating the reveals of the windows will create a thermal bridge (cold bridge) causing up to 25% of heat loss. Secondly the Thermaline Plus is not a vapour barrier, but in fact its is a vapour control layer which is permeable. And thirdly, this is just a tip, often when I'm doing retrofits like this, rather than using mdf around the window reveals I'll use pvc facia board, which is non-conductive, clean and rot proof. regards Steve 🙂
The PVC fascia board is a great idea! I have some of this left over and this is a great use for it. Never would have thought to use it this way
Completely agree with your view about getting experts in.
In these days every second claiming it is engineer, expert etc. But seeing how they do their job, I preffer to do it myself.
Great video, thanks!
Great vid Keith, loving the way you marked the window. Charlie is a top bloke and his channel is well worth a visit.
Great job Keith. Love the idea of using the Laser to mark out the cut outs. I will remember that for my next time.
That walls turned out brilliant, I've got a wall similar. I like the laser level for marking window cutouts on the new boards. That's a godsend for speed. I've never seen that trick before. I might eventually invest in one. Thaks for that. Tony
Cheers Tony! 👍
I have a project of my own coming up that i will be using moisture resistant plasterboard,so it was interesting watching how you tackled it and the foam adhesive i thought was a different way rather than dot and dab.Your videos are very informative as a very keen diyer they help me with my projects.Keep up the good work.
Thank you
I would have used UPVC Fascia Boards on the window reveals .... Available from national plastis - Use Squirty foam insulation to stick in place and no no wicking up of moisture off the window frame either Available in white up to 415 deep and in woodgrain finishes too
Brave… Brad nailing into 9mm MDF. Nice job. Great result.
I hate the idea of dot’n’dab. It leaves an open void between the plasterboard & the block work, & I find the void draughts like a chimney. Your foam adhesive all around the board makes more sense, just join the beads of foam through the joints at top & bottom.
The benefits of dot and dab for levelling are a huge bonus. I had old walls that were 7cm out at the top which dot and dab saw to with ease. I don't like it, but it has it's uses.
Love thermal board. Have used it in my lounge and little one’s bedroom. Makes a massive difference.
Tiny thing. Gyproc - pronounced ‘Jiprock’. Like Gypsum (‘jipsum’)
Didn’t know that preinsulated plasterboard was even a thing, good to know.
Ok job for that type of room, I foam all my boards on, once you have to take one off you find out just how well it adheres. I thought that about the reveals and then you mentioned it at the end. I use thermal tile backer board now on all door and window reveals, for it's insulation a moisture resistance qualities plus thinner boards available for tighter frame spaces, does need a skim over tho! Thanks for the video.
Do you know if that's a suitable option when looking to insulate a single skin 100+yr old outbuilding that pretty sure is getting some penetrating damp, has a tin roof. Thinking of adding somthing like stormdry to the outside but really struggling find accurate/consistent info in to fix directly or mount away with an air jap, with membrane or on and on inside insulation or wall side. Any tips atall or points to good guides very very much appreciated 😊 thanks
Nice Job Keith, thanks for this, excellent summary at the end - as always honest and open - very refreshing in this day and age !
Much appreciated
Thanks Keith for another real-world example of how doing something actually works. I've been thinking about using this insulated board but wasn't sure. This has given me the confidence to go ahead. I suspect you'll get some discolouration by the windows but unless they're open almost all the time you'd get it anyway no matter how well insulated. That might depend on whether you heat the room and ventilate/dehumidify it but nothing to worry about. Thanks again.
Use the stuff with the aluminum vapor barrier.
Don't use this method will have issues with interstitial condensation within 12mths, as above you need to use rigid insulation boards with a separate foil back plasterboard... this board he uses is for overloading where you have a ventilation pathway behind.
Fantastic video buddy. Lots of skills but humble at the same time!
Thank you kindly!
Right on! Try to fix it yourself first, then if it doesn't work call in a professional for advice, try again. If it still doesn't work, let the professional do it. (Unless it's to dangerous to try it yourself ie heating or the more difficult Electricity installing...) Hope it stays this nice in there!
The laser level trick is genius!
Thanks for this video. I enjoy watching you problem solve the difficulties and mistakes that you make.
Thanks for watching!
Wow! Im soo happy that i found your video. Im doing jy store room. Exactly like yours so exactly same purpose. Will follow each step. Thank you thank you
I believe "Cold Bridging" is when cold moves along a temp conductive material that allows it to "bridge" areas of insulation, not a gap in the insulation that allows humid air to pass.
I have some remarks about this video but more on that later xD Great results, I didn't know the plaster board with insulation looks very practical
Thanks again!
Fantastic tip with the window. You deserve a like
Much appreciated!
I missed this earlier and I'm glad I've seen.
Absolutely brilliant video, really informative many thanks👍
Seriously should be wearing a mask when cutting MDF hope to see this in future videos
I hear you on the tradesmen thing, good ones are like rocking horse poo
Great video Keith.
Always a pleasure to find out potential advice mate 👍🏽👍🏽
Great video. Enjoyed learning about this type of board and making window casements
Good job Keith, approached clearly and metholodically. The window surrounds have more than a passing resemblance to the ones you built in that van conversion!
Only thing I would have done differently is to but the two large sheets of plasterboard side by side and the infill at the side. Just makes it easier to butt the two boards together as you know the joint will be straight whereas infilling with the offcuts in the middle its more tricky to cut as the walls are almost never parallel.
I too love Easyfill but its not cheap stuff. No nonsense filler you used as topcoat, what was that like for sanding Keith? That’s the one big advantage of Easyfill, its dead easy to sand to a flat finish. Another thing you can use as filler believe it or not is tile adhesive, it too sands easily !
Cheers! The no nonsense stuff sands just as easily, I don't think I'd spend the extra on easifill going forward! 👍
Very interesting.
I really like the use of the laser. Being (ahem) old school, I don’t possess or have never used a laser level. But seeing what you did has made me want to get one 👍
I have used powder filler a lot and I like it as you can mix to the required consistency.
Great video as always, but your explanation of cold bridging wasn’t quite right. The issue you described is actually interstitial condensation, whereas cold bridging is where you have a component forming a bridge between the ‘warm’ and ‘cold’ sides of the wall build up - common examples would be steel beams, cavity wall ties, balcony slabs etc.
Thanks for the info!
Makes sense
Yeh, I was about to mention that too, but hate saying anything negative about these videos as overall, it's a superb job.
I have just done a massive extension in the UK and to give you a good example of thermal blocks; on all of my load-bearing walls (which obviously project down into the basement foundations), at the floor level in the ground floor, I removed x3 bricks at a time and slotted in a Marmox thermal block product, which is 600mm long and 100mm wide. It is load-bearing and literally prevents the cold from bridging up through the cold basement and up into my living spaces. Ask me if it was a nightmare of a job! For obvious reasons, you could only take out 3 bricks at a time and then slot it in, but again - absolutely hellish job, but all done now (My heating hasn't been on for over one year!) (Glasgow, UK).
great video ! maybe when youre doing a later video please show us beginners how you insulate around window reveals !
Maybe a small solar powered fan in one of the windows could keep air moving in the room at little cost. 😊😊😊😊😊
Fantastic! Superb workmanship. 👍
Just started the video and I already know there isn't enough cats in this video lol. Always love the videos, Keith. Thanks for the great content!!
Yeah, needs more cats
Thanks Mickie will feature next week
Really excellent work, Keith! 😃
I think the plywood is going to be enough for the windows!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks 👍
Looks smart. I think there will be some moisture issues in the window boxes as you mentioned though. Time will tell!
Thanks for a well-made video
Don't think your window boxes should cause too much an issue un-insulated bud. Doing a good job I reckon so far. Give where you had the damp, getting the outside sorted will seal the deal. Your outside path being slightly above floor level, I'd probably sink some plastic channel along the perimeter bedded in pea gravel. Should better whisk rainfall away.👍
Thanks mate, can you explain what you mean by plastic channel? I was going to simply excavate and then leave a good 100mm (150mm if poss!) below dpc with gravel beneath, which is what we have elsewhere on the bungalow... But intrigued by the idea!
@@RagnBoneBrown There's no one real name for it bud but if you Google search plastic channel drain/drainage you'll see what I mean. It's just ground level guttering for house perimeters. Should mean you can keep the existing path level flush to the wall and channel the water away still - rather than having a trench.
@@RagnBoneBrown perforated land drainage pipe down first and then backfill will pea gravel.
Your woodworking skills are very good, if paired with the Kunlun teeth that do not burst the edge, it would be even better
Looks good mate I’m going to insulate a concrete section garage I’ve got ,I like that plaster board you used ,one thing that zinzzer bin is great ,but it’s not 123 that’s another product,,also I would have used a anti mold paint like Zinsser perma white,,use this a lot my self when I paint out bathrooms or there as been an issue with black mold ,the garage is used as storage for my tools and all my paint ,I’m going to plumb in a sink for cleaning brushes and rollers,well my my plumber mate will,lol,there will be a worktop across one end the tumble dryer will be under it and a fridge freezer in there ,it as a tin roof ,so gets very hot in summer and freezing cold in winter ,which is no good for the paint ,will put some type rubber matting down on concrete floor ,
Ideally you need to look into Relative Humidly, once you understand that everything makes sense. If that room is completely unheated with large vents to outside then unfortunately the RH of outdoor air in winter at temps of 0 to 6 degrees is often 80% to 90% so this means your room will be too humid no matter how much you insulate the walls. However if this room was warmer than the outdoor temp this would have a positive affect on the RH. As I say RH is the key.
JIP-Roc I’ve always called it 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻
Yep, Jip-Rock
Really useful vid Keith. I’ve got exactly the same issue in my utility room and this could be a really effective method to tidy it up a bit. Thanks.
What type of board would you use if it was a livable space? Your videos are super helpful!
Excellent brother 👏👍
Great job Keith, but time will tell, have a nice day Mate !!!.
How has this solution held up over time? One thing I’m worried about with our single brick garage is moisture passing through the brickwork from the outside when it rains against the wall. Any advice appreciated!?
I share the pain of having had sub optimal tradespeople.
As I’ve always been told, you want something done right, do it yourself. If you don’t know how, learn.
Well done!
Totally agree with you on trades, I have had more negative than positive with the trades, even ones that comes recommended. I just wish trades would make an effort to communicate rather than just assume would be a good start.
Bad experience of the trades is why I try to do most of the work myself.
CT1 would be better than the silicone you used, in the corner of the wall. It stays flexible and once fully cured, it's also paintable. 👍
Watched this with interest, the laser for lining board up was new to me, most impressed.sadly the advert in this video suddenly blew my brains out, its too loud, im listening on head phones!
What advert? I don't place the adverts, RUclips do....
Quicker way to do the windows, glue the board up, stab with a pad saw and then trim to edge of windowframe. Quite a bit faster, and the rough edge wont matter as you covered it up later anyway
I REALY LIKE YOUR JOB PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE GIVE US AN UP DATE MANY MANY PEOPLE ARE SURFFERING MOULD.
AND I TOO HAVE HAD BAD ADVICE FROM TRADES.
YOUR HONEST WORK IS WORTH SO MUCH
PLEASE GIVE US AN UPDATE....... MANY THANKS
Good Job Keith, I have a sneaky suspicion that the blocked vent has played a part in the mould growth!
Cheers! 😁👍
Good job 👌
Nice job.
By the time your were finished, did you find yourself feeling a little board?
You want the struff with the aluminum vapor barrier because it actually reflects the heat back into the room or outside in hot areas. They took it off because Aluminum isn't cheap. You can't buy those boards in the USA. I'm starting to wonder why.
As a DIY'er pretty nice job, like you said, it's for you and your "learning curve" of various jobs, everybody makes mistakes, at least it's your risk not for someone who pay for that. I can only worried of not priming MDF from backside, might be less resistant to water - condensation, around window frame, than plasterboard in long run,. If MDF it swell, it stay like this, plasterboard is more breathable. Everything depends of ventilation of your workshop and how much sweat you put there :D
Hey can you please list the products used please
I suppose, sealing the mdf would have been best, as to protect it from condensation 👍 I've commented, b4 watching the whole vid 😉
'Get the professionals in' only joking mate, i thought you did a cracking job especially getting the boards to fit a sloping ceiling and the MDF fittings in the windows, so don't be too hard on yourself you defo would do a better job than me.
Stay Safe.
Barry (Wirral)
Thanks Barry 👍
Hi Keith, have you ever installed the insulated plasterboard to a ceiling ?. If yes did you make a video. Can you point me in the direction of the video. Also, have you ever made a canopy and installed it over a kitchen door. If you have, can you also possibly direct me to this video. Many thanks, Andy great videos as always. 👍
It's much cheaper to use 25mm battern to wall 25mm celotex in between and then overboard with standard plasterboard
Much more time consuming too and time is money
Damp will come through the joints 100%
Wrong
@@RagnBoneBrown you will see give it two months 👍, you sould have studded it out with timber then put foam back insulation then staples plastic membrane to wall then plasterboard maybe foil back to be 100 %
It's already been a year!!!!
I'm with you, too large a percentage of the British building trade is absolute bobbins.
It can be hard to find good trademen now, especially when young people are no longer drawn to manual labor ,trade jobs.A big problem here in Ireland
Hi great stuffand very well explained and hopefuly useful for a coulple later projects. First tho im needing do somthing similar but its a fairly damp single skin brick outbuilding with tin roof (not very big) and just struggling so much find any good guides that type of thing and keep going in circles. Is the anything/guides you (or anyone else happening to read this) could point me towards please. Thanks
Great job Keith, really liked how you used the laser to get around the windows perfectly 👌🏻
I have a similar job coming up where I will need to insulate the external wall and normal plaster board the others. Do I need to plaster skim them once boarded?
Does anyone know if I can screw into this insulation? I have a single skin garage that I want to turn into a home recording studio, and will have to screw into the wall to add acoustic panels
Good vid, can this thermal board be added over cavity wall?
The cavity wall I have is next to useless against a west facing exposed wall. The inside of wall always feels cold and gets condensation in areas
Well presented video mate.
Installing Internal wall insulation (IWI) on solid wall type construction is fraught with the risk of creating interstitial condensation. I believe insulated plasterboard adhered to the walls without any ventilation of the created cavity space behind the board (which in this situation is impossible to ventilate anyway) is a poor design to use in this instance and in theory it sets up a prime condition for interstitial condensation.
Fair play to you for highlight this and regardless of the theory it will be interesting to see how it performs for you in practice, which is where it matter.
We did the other wall in the room about two years ago, and also the walls in our utility room. No issues with mould.or moisture so far
@@RagnBoneBrown Yeah there you go. Some hardcore building conservationist would be foaming at the mouth at this installation but as I said theory and practice may be different and if it works which is has for you thats what matters.
@@kevocos what is recommended? Stone wall , then an air gap , then a timber frame with insulation board ?
would using spray foam in all the cracks and corners be better than caulking?
Is this board used for damp basements?
Just wondering if I could use that insulated plasterboard on my bedroom walls ? As am planning to remove old bonding from walls and put this insulated drywall using adhesive . Is that would be effective and faster than trying to make walls straight with new bonding ?
Can old buildings get damp behind the insulated board?
👍🏾🍷Thanks 4 sharing Brotha. Quick Q???? Could you kindly tell me what type of laser measurement systems are using for measuring the walls????
Looks like a badger sett behind that vent ...;-)
Matt's new home!
@@RagnBoneBrown ROFL!
What about ventilation behind the boards? Is it airtight?
Great video as always 👍. What tripod for your laser level do you use please. There’s a few out there but just curious as to which one you use. Cheers
Thank you for the video. Is it standard practise to paint the board without a skim coat? If it is, how come people bother with the expense of having it skimmed? I'm perplexed.
Standard practice in the USA but not the UK
You mentioned the room's floor being out of level. Have you considered using a self-leveling compound to even it out? (Or am I jumping ahead an episode or two?)
I considered that, but the floor is painted so screed won't adhere to it
@@RagnBoneBrown Yes it will, if you use the correct primer first. Done it many times.
I am NO expert but it would seem that those two vents in the wall MAY be the cause of future problems by allowing too much moisture/temperature migration. It would normally take some time and a lot of waiting to get the internal areas of that room to be affected but with those two unprotected vent holes ... who knows?
Ventilation is key to removing condensation, and those vents are the only ventilation in the room (no opening windows)
Nooice!
How much did you pay per board and what plasterboard is this called please.
Been trying to suss it out for some time, what’s your tattoo of?
I thought it was the Triumph at one point.
Another great clip fella 👍✊🙏
Harvest, it's a Neil Young record 👌
Thanks Keith, I"m about to try an insulate my single skin garage (workshop). Do you need to have a air gap between the insulation and the wall?
Don't need an air gap. I've used dot and dab and foam, found foam really easy 🙌
An air gap is fine, but isn't necessary, seeing as both the foam adhesive and the foam insulation is not water permeable. That's what I think anyway!
Pointless to insulate a single skin brick wall. Drill some ventlaton holes n the brckwork. Build a 50mm and 300mm c/c stud wall and insulate against that with 150mm Celotex/kingspan PIR insulaton and plasterboard ont top for fiire resstance screwed through or get an architectural technician to design it for you
Won't there be a mold and condensation issue behind the plaster board a few years down the line?
In theory no, as the walls are no longer cold because they're insulated, so moisture won't be able to condense on them for the mould to form
Always enjoy your videos. Did you know here in the USA Milwaukee is pronounced - "Mee-lee wah-kay"?
We do, thanks to the Legend that is Alice Cooper in Wayne's World :-)
Pardon me but, I am not sure I understand this. Aren’t you just trapping the moisture behind that new plasterboard? In the US, building codes would require you to have an air gap of at least an inch so the condensation could evaporate. How can this method work and not just trap mold behind this new plasterboard, which will cause horrible problems within 10 to 15 years? Closed foam is a trap and not permeable. Please, explain this if you would. Thank you.
👍👍👍
another great vid, cheers!
I'm about to tackle this in a bedroom. I've used easifill before but do you reckon the Screwfix stuff is as good for taping/jointing? And did you use any screws in the board too?
Thanks! The no nonsense stuff was just as easy to work and sand, I will buy it again for sure. I didn't use screws, but they are advised for building regs or h&s or something because if there's a fire the boards could drop off the wall.. But as it's a store room and not a thoroughfare we are not worried about it 👍
@@RagnBoneBrown that's great, cheers! I'll give it a go
Gyproc. It's Gyp-roc.
It's not jiy-proc