Hello. First of all, I would like to say that I liked the video very much and I cannot understand why the number of subscribers is low. I am an energy engineer and your information is easy to understand and accurate, thank you for this nice video. Greetings from Türkiye.
After watching the video I went to the channel to see general content and was surprised that it is only 681 subscribers !! like there should be a "K" at the end !! . nice video that explained much, thanks for that 🌱
Really informative, thanks! I have a very old stone and lime mortar house, which only adds to the complexity of trying to make it more energy efficient. So I am trying to learn all about that at the moment :)
Thanks for making the time to produce this video, its really helpful. Part of my job involves installing timber and Aluminium windows into older heritage properties in the UK. Our thermal envelope doesn't exist on properties that mostly have solid walls with no cavities being the norm. Many times we're fitting our windows/doors behind the stone or brickwork to match the original and working in very tight spaces. Where needed we may use Fixing foam to hold frames in position if through fixings or straps aren't an option. Can you advise of any products we could consider to use as thermal breaks between the frame and the surrounding brick/stonework that is suitable for very restricted areas?
Thank you, Bev! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. A suitable material for the gap between the brickwork and the frame is one with very low lambda value, like PIR or sometimes in very narrow spaces is used vaccuum insulation (which is still quite expensive).
Good explanation. Now, how do we insulate a 40mm timber door without making it so thick it feels like a bank vault, and without using petrochemical foams?
Doors and windows of old existing buildings should be replaced, if possible. You can find high-performance components here - database.passivehouse.com/en/components/
All of this very much depends on the details and insulation thicknesses. The difference between the floor and ceiling due to the rising warmer air isn't that significant.
Heat does not rise. Hot air rises. Any thermal bridge will wick heat at the same rate no matter its orientation. With that said, some parts of your structure will have higher heat differentials than others -something that only you can determine for your specific situation
Exactly my question because of a house in Indonesia. Temperatures up to 45 C and extremely humid. And as it is a very poor country, the solution has to be very very cheap.
Hello. First of all, I would like to say that I liked the video very much and I cannot understand why the number of subscribers is low. I am an energy engineer and your information is easy to understand and accurate, thank you for this nice video. Greetings from Türkiye.
After watching the video I went to the channel to see general content and was surprised that it is only 681 subscribers !! like there should be a "K" at the end !! . nice video that explained much, thanks for that 🌱
Thank you for the kind words 😊 Glad you are enjoying the content.
852 now. Still doesn't have that k on the end like it deserves.
Really informative, thanks! I have a very old stone and lime mortar house, which only adds to the complexity of trying to make it more energy efficient. So I am trying to learn all about that at the moment :)
Thanks for making the time to produce this video, its really helpful. Part of my job involves installing timber and Aluminium windows into older heritage properties in the UK. Our thermal envelope doesn't exist on properties that mostly have solid walls with no cavities being the norm. Many times we're fitting our windows/doors behind the stone or brickwork to match the original and working in very tight spaces. Where needed we may use Fixing foam to hold frames in position if through fixings or straps aren't an option. Can you advise of any products we could consider to use as thermal breaks between the frame and the surrounding brick/stonework that is suitable for very restricted areas?
Thank you, Bev! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. A suitable material for the gap between the brickwork and the frame is one with very low lambda value, like PIR or sometimes in very narrow spaces is used vaccuum insulation (which is still quite expensive).
very informative, thanks!
Thank you ☺
Binge watch ! ☺️💪
Glad to see you are enjoying the videos 😊
Good explanation.
Now, how do we insulate a 40mm timber door without making it so thick it feels like a bank vault, and without using petrochemical foams?
Doors and windows of old existing buildings should be replaced, if possible. You can find high-performance components here - database.passivehouse.com/en/components/
If heat rises, are thermal bridges like floor joists less critical than ceiling bridges?
All of this very much depends on the details and insulation thicknesses. The difference between the floor and ceiling due to the rising warmer air isn't that significant.
Heat does not rise. Hot air rises. Any thermal bridge will wick heat at the same rate no matter its orientation. With that said, some parts of your structure will have higher heat differentials than others -something that only you can determine for your specific situation
Hi, do you have any videos on passive house design for hot and humid climates?
That's a very important topic and I will be releasing a vido on this very soon, so stay tuned 🙂
Exactly my question because of a house in Indonesia. Temperatures up to 45 C and extremely humid.
And as it is a very poor country, the solution has to be very very cheap.
Dangerous ? lol , using that word in this context is laughable Hyperbolic click bait .