I think sometimes people watch these types of videos with the wrong intent. These are not "how to" videos. They are "how I" videos not intended for step by step instructions. Videos like this provide inspiration and one mans idea on how to solve a problem. Besides, this channel is for viewers to follow along with his adventures. In my humble opinion. Thanks for sharing!
Yes, however, anything on one of Abom’s channels regarding metal fabrication or machining, can be considered one correct method. Abom is a pro. There are many ways to accomplish a repair or modification. The comment section is an open forum where viewers exchange ideas and personal experiences in addition to general comments. On some channels, there is as much to be learned from the comment section as from the video. Problem is instead of offering ideas in raw form or stating the commenter’s idea, many commenters will ask why the contributor didn’t do it this way or that. Keep in mind these projects may have been recorded days or weeks prior and are the result of many hours of video taping and even more hours of editing and uploading. Anyone thinking they know a better way should share it, but they are only an armchair quarterback at the point.
I like button head cap bolts. I use them for 2 main reasons: 1-they were original equipment and 2-they provide a clean look. I know it was easier to use an Allen wrench to hold the bolts from inside the frame and put the nuts on the outside but I think it would have looked better to have the heads showing rather than the nuts. On the adjustable step mod: adding 2 holes was a good idea. When I had my camper I had similar steps with the same issue when on uneven sites. I found that at some point when the legs were over extended that the first step got to be a little steep-especially when my kids were little. Instead of extending the legs further I acquired a 3 or 4 foot long piece of 4x12 from a local sawmill to put under the feet. That served as the first step-a big help for short legs.
Nice job, Adam, but I agree with some of the other comments by putting the button head on the outside to reduce the probability of snags. Plus, it would look better. Easy to change.
Please turn the nut and bolt around . Your clothes could hang on the end of the bolt cause you a problem with tripping or something when you come out or in the camper
Why didn't you put the cap screws out and nuts inside channel ? Seems it would me much more flush and less prone to catching things (shoelaces, clothes, bare foot)
Those are some really nice steps, will definitely keep those in mind for our RV. Another thought for the support legs is to make an insert that goes inside of the current support legs instead of making new ones. This would provide a second adjustment giving you plenty of adjustment and still gives you good amount of the support leg in the mating tube with lots of support. Really like the stability of those steps. Thanks very much for sharing.
Looks good Adam. Upgrades are always fun, makes things even better. If I may suggest, over time check the other rivets, as stress will find another location to show up. Cheers, Blessings! 👍.
That is a great repair! As a portly gentleman I know first hand that manufacturers don't make things sturdy enough for bigger guys even though some things may hold up they just make things so cheap!
@@RichieCat4223 As someone who weighs nowhere close to 500lbs and has broken things rated 500lbs... sometimes manufacturers "rate" things higher than reality does.
@@RichieCat4223 I suspect that the OE rivets are aluminum with steel mandrels. Had the step company used stainless rivets I doubt this problem would have occurred.
Nice repair on the steps! The retired machinist in me is just a bit jealous of your shop for sure but I would also have used a through bolt but with a spacer tube in the center of the channel to prevent the assembly from collapsing. Keep up the great videos!!
I would have thought you'd go for a weld repair on this to lock the pieces together forever, but this is certainly a more DIY friendly solution for the average RV owner.
Probably a good extra step would be to remove the steps and weld those splits on the elbows to get the flex out of it. Also IF the rivets that hold the steps ever break too. You could replace them with an all thread rod all the way through.😉👍
Thank you Adam. I have about twenty spinning rivets on the sides of an old truck that I have pondered for years on how to get them remove. Punch and a hammer. Always KISS.
Thanks for the tip! I'm not as fit as I was. Stuff seams to wear out and break and rivets aren't always the best way to fasten things like your steps. This video gave me an idea maybe if before they get loose we could put a fine threaded screw inside the rivet to make it last longer when replacing them with bolts won't work. I'm glad there was a simple fix for your steps! Until next time Have a good one!
I bet that could work. Truthfully, I've also put some JB Weld in a syringe and used a large diameter needle to fill voids and cavities with the epoxy for extra strengthening. It sets up and is then a very strong filling core. :) You could do that too here. Fill the rivet and then put a piece of tape over the end to keep the epoxy inside.
I feel lucky to have a Fastenal in my area because I to really like the button head cap screws in stainless steel, like them so much I have the assortment box with washers and nylocs, I'm also looking to get a set of steps for my trailer and dump the pull out set that came with the trailer.
Got one in the Industrial Park behind my house! Maybe five minutes away. I also have within a couple miles: Home Depot, Harbor Freight, a REAL ACE hardware, NAPA. Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, and a few other places. I also would have put the button heads out but that's just the way I do things. Minor quibble on another Abom "better than new" repair job!😁
@@PhilG999 Adam is a big boy and I've seen him defend his work before, I think he likes the critics as well. I golf with the manager of Fastenal I think that helps 🤔 we do have all the others too. When working on a Harley I wasn't sure if the stainless would match up with the chrome so I was afforded a sample package and it was free, so for many years McMaster Carr was the go to, still not completely weaned from them. I think that I was more interested in the steps and not the repair, I'm looking for a set for my trailer and when Adam put this out I got a twofer. I think that I had asked for a review of the steps. Its great to hear from you Phil.
Recognized those boxes and the bags before you even mentioned MC . I don't even bother going to the 2 mentioned stores as they never have what I want , they don't stock it or they are out. So the heck w/ them. Absolutely the stainless steel. For the unknowing Google the alloy number for information about it.
Again, trying to be helpful. I knew those couple of threads were going to bother people, and for no good reason other than to try and critique. The bolts will be just fine as is.
@@AbomAdventures Sorry to see you reply that way, Adam. Maybe your viewers are also trying to be helpful rather than just critique. The button heads belong on the outside where skin, pant cuffs, and show laces won’t get snagged on the fasteners. The thought of bare feet and ankles next to those edges is enough to make anyone cringe. The job will also just look more professional.
I was worried about that at first aswell, but towards the end he shows that it auctully didnt change anything. As long as the last hole is within 1" from the end it's no diffrent then another hole. The tubing itself would likely buckle before that joint ever failed.
2 extra holes wont give you a lot more adjustment Adam, get you by for a while - I'd definately be planning to fit the longest leg you can in there eventually. Also possibly adding an adjustable foot as well, something like a 19mm (3/4 of a banana) bolt you can wind in or out for final adjustment.
Suggestion not make new rails just get tubing to fit inside with holes that lines up with the large one and have two adjustments on each side, not sure if you replace with longer ones will it hit the inside door handle?
Question. Why can’t you use one long bolt all the way through the side rail instead of the two when replacing the two rivets? The same path as the rod you used to line up the holes. Thanks
@@amsoiltek The longer bolt with a spacer is exactly what I was thinking. It is the route I would take. What he did will work just fine. I just thought 1 long bolt would be simpler with the same result. Maybe he was just working with stuff that he had on hand. He did say that he already had the panhead hex bolts. Same results either way.
Adam could you use a longer bolt on each side instead of 2 shorter bolts per side. Also are you worried about the attachment of the tread to the riser?
Trailer owner here. I'm still amazed by the corners that manufacturers will cut to make a few extra dollars. What a dangerous situation, using rivets as stressed members of a step structure. No wonder people sue companies for injuries due to poor design. Thanks.
Agreed. I think I would have still been skeptical of a solid steel rivet in 3/16" one thing I will say is that the people who end up having to repair them are very aware of this kinda crap and the insurance agency's are aswell. This is why I stick to air streams and tear drop trailers or just stright up homeade
If it matters would make the first step non-standard height for every use. Could add an internal slip tube foot plate to each existing side with a similar pin/series of adjustment holes.
I always give a chuckle when Kurtis makes his banana reference. Converting between bananas and metric is easy-I do it all the time in my day job. (Soup batching: grams/kilos to ounces/lbs. and back.) In my shop I have both Imperial and metric measuring tools, taps, dies and drill bits.
Why couldn't you drill out a solid bar that would slide into the hollow bar that you drilled out and mount the foot pad. That would make it stronger and give you a lot more adjustment. I've had steps collapse with me too many times over the years. It's no fun! ......LOL
@@AbomAdventures You are very helpful Adam! People can change the tutorial to their own liking and experience the success or failure of choosing to do so. Let 'em go at it. You do great by showing us the concept. 😺 Thank you!
Your type of joint relies solely on the shear strength of the fastener. The method Adam used is much stronger as it also creates a clamping friction joint which is much stronger that a simply shear joint. It aslo won't fail due to cyclic actions, as long as the hardware is and remains tightened sufficiently.
Perhaps because everything is so dangerous and we have become so frightened of anything and everything maybe we should all just stay home and crouch down in a closet and cringe with fear.
Those steps certainly weren't designed for heavy duty use, I hate buying something and having modify it to a higher spec because the original product just couldn't handle things.
Well, your partner might disagree if he or she isn't deep enough to handle it all. 😸 Women aren't my thing, but I understand from what I hear that a cervix that's getting poked and pushed on over and over again is not an enjoyable feeling. 😸 5.5" is the average member length and 6" or so is the average female depth, so 2" would annoy plenty of ladies out there. 😫 Lol. The number of guys who think their lil guy is long enough to be going through the cervix is too damn high. 🤣
I think sometimes people watch these types of videos with the wrong intent. These are not "how to" videos. They are "how I" videos not intended for step by step instructions. Videos like this provide inspiration and one mans idea on how to solve a problem. Besides, this channel is for viewers to follow along with his adventures. In my humble opinion. Thanks for sharing!
Yes, however, anything on one of Abom’s channels regarding metal fabrication or machining, can be considered one correct method. Abom is a pro. There are many ways to accomplish a repair or modification. The comment section is an open forum where viewers exchange ideas and personal experiences in addition to general comments. On some channels, there is as much to be learned from the comment section as from the video. Problem is instead of offering ideas in raw form or stating the commenter’s idea, many commenters will ask why the contributor didn’t do it this way or that. Keep in mind these projects may have been recorded days or weeks prior and are the result of many hours of video taping and even more hours of editing and uploading. Anyone thinking they know a better way should share it, but they are only an armchair quarterback at the point.
I like button head cap bolts. I use them for 2 main reasons: 1-they were original equipment and 2-they provide a clean look. I know it was easier to use an Allen wrench to hold the bolts from inside the frame and put the nuts on the outside but I think it would have looked better to have the heads showing rather than the nuts.
On the adjustable step mod: adding 2 holes was a good idea. When I had my camper I had similar steps with the same issue when on uneven sites. I found that at some point when the legs were over extended that the first step got to be a little steep-especially when my kids were little. Instead of extending the legs further I acquired a 3 or 4 foot long piece of 4x12 from a local sawmill to put under the feet. That served as the first step-a big help for short legs.
Nice job, Adam, but I agree with some of the other comments by putting the button head on the outside to reduce the probability of snags. Plus, it would look better. Easy to change.
Please turn the nut and bolt around . Your clothes could hang on the end of the bolt cause you a problem with tripping or something when you come out or in the camper
You should put bolt heads to the outside I've seen people catch shoe laces on bolt sticking out and they ended up with bloody shins not a good idea.
Adam must watch Cutting Edge Engineering. Banana measurements.😀
Why didn't you put the cap screws out and nuts inside channel ? Seems it would me much more flush and less prone to catching things (shoelaces, clothes, bare foot)
Those are some really nice steps, will definitely keep those in mind for our RV.
Another thought for the support legs is to make an insert that goes inside of the current support legs instead of making new ones. This would provide a second adjustment giving you plenty of adjustment and still gives you good amount of the support leg in the mating tube with lots of support.
Really like the stability of those steps. Thanks very much for sharing.
curious as to why you didn't mount the bolts the other way, with the nut on the inside? aesthetically, that would look nicer.
Looks good Adam. Upgrades are always fun, makes things even better. If I may suggest, over time check the other rivets, as stress will find another location to show up. Cheers, Blessings! 👍.
That is a great repair! As a portly gentleman I know first hand that manufacturers don't make things sturdy enough for bigger guys even though some things may hold up they just make things so cheap!
These steps are rated at 500 lbs.
@@RichieCat4223 As someone who weighs nowhere close to 500lbs and has broken things rated 500lbs... sometimes manufacturers "rate" things higher than reality does.
@@RichieCat4223 I suspect that the OE rivets are aluminum with steel mandrels. Had the step company used stainless rivets I doubt this problem would have occurred.
I might have put those nuts to the inside. Leave the button heads on the outside. Might have been tougher, but better turnout.
agreed also no nut or threads to catch a shoe sock pant leg
Agree, would look more 'finished'
Nice repair on the steps! The retired machinist in me is just a bit jealous of your shop for sure but I would also have used a through bolt but with a spacer tube in the center of the channel to prevent the assembly from collapsing. Keep up the great videos!!
Love button head machine bolts. I use them on the license plates to the cars and trucks !
Spae-Naur in Canada has the same hardware in Canada. I fixed mine putting the nylock nut on the inside learning the button on the outside.
Loved the "banana measurements" comment. Thanks for all you guys do.
We love our flip down stairs.
One down side is not being able to fold them down if parked close to something.
Nice repairs.
I would have thought you'd go for a weld repair on this to lock the pieces together forever, but this is certainly a more DIY friendly solution for the average RV owner.
Probably a good extra step would be to remove the steps and weld those splits on the elbows to get the flex out of it. Also IF the rivets that hold the steps ever break too. You could replace them with an all thread rod all the way through.😉👍
Those elbow brackets are a piss-poor design.
Thank you Adam. I have about twenty spinning rivets on the sides of an old truck that I have pondered for years on how to get them remove. Punch and a hammer. Always KISS.
Said it before...Sure do like the DoAll....solid machine.
It’s been a good machine 👍🏻
"Banana" measurements sounds like somebody is listening to Cutting Edge Engineering
😜👍🤫
I have that same Cleveland drill index. One of my favorite things in the shop.
Hes happy today more than usual
I would have put the button heads on the other side. The button heads are smooth and wont catch on things like the nuts will.
At least on the inside ones. Keep them from scratching up your shoes.
Great fix and improvement.
I have those steps on both my doors on my 5th wheel, absolutely love them!!
Thanks for the tip! I'm not as fit as I was. Stuff seams to wear out and break and rivets aren't always the best way to fasten things like your steps. This video gave me an idea maybe if before they get loose we could put a fine threaded screw inside the rivet to make it last longer when replacing them with bolts won't work. I'm glad there was a simple fix for your steps! Until next time Have a good one!
I bet that could work. Truthfully, I've also put some JB Weld in a syringe and used a large diameter needle to fill voids and cavities with the epoxy for extra strengthening. It sets up and is then a very strong filling core. :) You could do that too here. Fill the rivet and then put a piece of tape over the end to keep the epoxy inside.
@@mannys9130 That should make things better should it. Thanks for the tip!
I feel lucky to have a Fastenal in my area because I to really like the button head cap screws in stainless steel, like them so much I have the assortment box with washers and nylocs, I'm also looking to get a set of steps for my trailer and dump the pull out set that came with the trailer.
Got one in the Industrial Park behind my house! Maybe five minutes away. I also have within a couple miles: Home Depot, Harbor Freight, a REAL ACE hardware, NAPA. Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, and a few other places. I also would have put the button heads out but that's just the way I do things. Minor quibble on another Abom "better than new" repair job!😁
@@PhilG999 Adam is a big boy and I've seen him defend his work before, I think he likes the critics as well. I golf with the manager of Fastenal I think that helps 🤔 we do have all the others too. When working on a Harley I wasn't sure if the stainless would match up with the chrome so I was afforded a sample package and it was free, so for many years McMaster Carr was the go to, still not completely weaned from them. I think that I was more interested in the steps and not the repair, I'm looking for a set for my trailer and when Adam put this out I got a twofer. I think that I had asked for a review of the steps. Its great to hear from you Phil.
@@keithrogers5832 Yeah. Adam is the pro! And one of the marks of a pro is being able to deal with constructive criticism and shrug off the idiots! 😁
Recognized those boxes and the bags before you even mentioned MC . I don't even bother going to the 2 mentioned stores as they never have what I want , they don't stock it or they are out. So the heck w/ them. Absolutely the stainless steel. For the unknowing Google the alloy number for information about it.
Love watching you folks
Cool real world repair anyone can do.
i'd have put the nuts on the inside, someone is bound to catch themselves on that tiny bit of thread sticking out of the nut and get a cut.
SawAll.
EDIT: Liked the Nyloc nuts.
Again, trying to be helpful. I knew those couple of threads were going to bother people, and for no good reason other than to try and critique. The bolts will be just fine as is.
@@AbomAdventures Sorry to see you reply that way, Adam. Maybe your viewers are also trying to be helpful rather than just critique. The button heads belong on the outside where skin, pant cuffs, and show laces won’t get snagged on the fasteners. The thought of bare feet and ankles next to those edges is enough to make anyone cringe. The job will also just look more professional.
That's why I mentioned it I had a mallard 28 footer and my buddy fixed his like aboms and he got hurt just trying to help.
Nice job Adam it,s a preference which way your bolts go if someone worry about tripping on them they need to stopped drinking the liquor !
Not second guessing you, but aren't the remainder of the rivets on the risers suspect of failure at some point? Thanks.
10:52 I believe you mean 17/64"....
I use 2x6 boards under my stabilizers and I have extra for the steps for situations your describing.
My biggest concern of drilling the two holes closer to the end of the tube is the increased levering force with less length on those telescoped ends.
I was worried about that at first aswell, but towards the end he shows that it auctully didnt change anything. As long as the last hole is within 1" from the end it's no diffrent then another hole. The tubing itself would likely buckle before that joint ever failed.
2 extra holes wont give you a lot more adjustment Adam, get you by for a while - I'd definately be planning to fit the longest leg you can in there eventually. Also possibly adding an adjustable foot as well, something like a 19mm (3/4 of a banana) bolt you can wind in or out for final adjustment.
LOL, banana measurements........that must have been for Kurt at Cutting Edge.
Thanks for sharing
I wonder if you could build another separate step that slips in there for the really big drop offs and avoid "watch that first/last step!"
I’ve been thinking of that idea also but another “thing” to pack and carry.
Suggestion not make new rails just get tubing to fit inside with holes that lines up with the large one and have two adjustments on each side, not sure if you replace with longer ones will it hit the inside door handle?
Question. Why can’t you use one long bolt all the way through the side rail instead of the two when replacing the two rivets? The same path as the rod you used to line up the holes. Thanks
I wondered the same thing.
I have the same steps on my 5th wheel, my guess it would crush the tangs together unless you place spacer in between channel.
@@amsoiltek The longer bolt with a spacer is exactly what I was thinking. It is the route I would take. What he did will work just fine. I just thought 1 long bolt would be simpler with the same result. Maybe he was just working with stuff that he had on hand. He did say that he already had the panhead hex bolts. Same results either way.
I would like to see adjustable legs that go straight down instead of on an angle.
Good repair thanks for sharing
The most shocking part of this video is there was a set of circumstances in which Adam didn't have a set of drill bits with him.
😂 exactly!
First time I had to go find and buy a set of drills out in the wild 😅
How great it would be to be your neighbor.
Adam could you use a longer bolt on each side instead of 2 shorter bolts per side. Also are you worried about the attachment of the tread to the riser?
I was thinking the same thing alot of extra work and it will be harder to take apart
If you use a long bolt the two parts won’t be pulled up tight to each other, why I showed the method I used for separate bolts.
@@AbomAdventures Ok I see what you are saying. Thanks
Abom going one step above One Step Above.
Goodstuff Adam!
The rivets on the top of the step are subject to a direct rotational sheer loading, the rest of the ladder not so much.
Trailer owner here. I'm still amazed by the corners that manufacturers will cut to make a few extra dollars. What a dangerous situation, using rivets as stressed members of a step structure. No wonder people sue companies for injuries due to poor design. Thanks.
Agreed. I think I would have still been skeptical of a solid steel rivet in 3/16" one thing I will say is that the people who end up having to repair them are very aware of this kinda crap and the insurance agency's are aswell. This is why I stick to air streams and tear drop trailers or just stright up homeade
How about making taller swivel feet for the legs?
If it matters would make the first step non-standard height for every use. Could add an internal slip tube foot plate to each existing side with a similar pin/series of adjustment holes.
Like the CEE reference... @11:10
I always give a chuckle when Kurtis makes his banana reference.
Converting between bananas and metric is easy-I do it all the time in my day job. (Soup batching: grams/kilos to ounces/lbs. and back.) In my shop I have both Imperial and metric measuring tools, taps, dies and drill bits.
nice job.
Where did you buy that Hammer? and how many oz.
"ABom fixed" Like that camper could be hit by a meteorite and those steps would still be attached. :-)
Why couldn't you drill out a solid bar that would slide into the hollow bar that you drilled out and mount the foot pad. That would make it stronger and give you a lot more adjustment. I've had steps collapse with me too many times over the years. It's no fun! ......LOL
We had to repair our step also due to the rivets breaking. Bad design.
I would just get long bolts like 2 inches instead of the short ones
And then the two parts won't be pulled up tight together and be sloppy. I think I'll stick to the plan I shared. BTW, I'm just trying to be helpful.
@@AbomAdventures You are very helpful Adam! People can change the tutorial to their own liking and experience the success or failure of choosing to do so. Let 'em go at it. You do great by showing us the concept. 😺 Thank you!
Your type of joint relies solely on the shear strength of the fastener. The method Adam used is much stronger as it also creates a clamping friction joint which is much stronger that a simply shear joint. It aslo won't fail due to cyclic actions, as long as the hardware is and remains tightened sufficiently.
ABOM on the road without drill bits?? Shocking..
He should take his shaper with him. It can fit on the front of the Monkey with an extended support bracket
Bolts ok until trousers get snagged and pull you off the steps.
No doubt people will be trying to invent the worst case scenario for a simple fix to a problem.
@@AbomAdventures dO yOu ThiNk tHaT thE LonGEr bOlTs CoUld aTTraCt mOre LightNing n fRy eVerYthiNg yOu eVer loVeD!?!?!?
" rivets that hold the upper swinging bracket to the steps frame are a week point" week should be weak.
I can almost picture it...Adam at the hardware store at anyplace USA...scoffing at their pitiful selection of drill bits.
Perhaps because everything is so dangerous and we have become so frightened of anything and everything maybe we should all just stay home and crouch down in a closet and cringe with fear.
LOL. I wonder how much heavier the RV has gotten from al these upgrades. Might be dangerous as well. ;-)
👍👍👍👍☕☕🍩🍩🔧🔧
Those steps certainly weren't designed for heavy duty use, I hate buying something and having modify it to a higher spec because the original product just couldn't handle things.
Dirty joke.... it dont hurt to a extra 2 inchs down there...
Well, your partner might disagree if he or she isn't deep enough to handle it all. 😸 Women aren't my thing, but I understand from what I hear that a cervix that's getting poked and pushed on over and over again is not an enjoyable feeling. 😸 5.5" is the average member length and 6" or so is the average female depth, so 2" would annoy plenty of ladies out there. 😫 Lol. The number of guys who think their lil guy is long enough to be going through the cervix is too damn high. 🤣