New updated video is here ruclips.net/video/W76o3dx6QKk/видео.html I use all the tips from the comments in this one and upgrade to new Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors.
So if you ever want to know the exact best way to do something just do the thing and post a video of it and commenters will tell you where you went wrong. Never fails. Good video.
Thanks brother for your video very helpful! I just finished my front brake pads and realized that the 3/4” bolts don’t have to be removed. Only the smaller caliper bolts need to come off. Hopefully this helps you and others in the future! Thanks again for sharing!🙏🙏🙏
I've done alot of brake jobs! So I learned to where yellow color gloves at harbor freight! The other thing is use the old brake pad that the piston side and use the c clamp to push in the pistons! Thanks for the video! Dave
You should learn how to compress a brake caliper piston with a pry bar by prying between the caliper and brake pad before disassembly. Makes this stuff even easier 😁
Great vidio helped a lot with the learning curb. I did how ever run into one problem the brake pads and hardware i used was made in India no manafactor info on box bought at Oreilly,s the caliper clips were junk would not work to thick poor quillity control had to use the old ones. worked an extra hour in 101 heat before i coumpared old clips to the new ones. just for everyones information.
Great video. I'm doing my 2015 Powerwagon in the next couple of weeks. Also I bought a set of new takeoff Black rims like you have. I think they look pretty sharp compared to the polished aluminum ones that come with the truck.
I don't want to take anything from your video but a recommendation is not to remove the caliper bracket but only the caliper. Use the old brake pad to push in the caliper pistons and open the master cylinder reservoir prior to pushing the pistons
Thanks, I appreciate the input. I'm planning a new video in the future where I address all this. I will be rebuilding the calipers and showing how the cap is built to expand and contract without spewing fluid. I will also be showing some new things I've learned since this video came out. Again, thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
you should really remove caliber from mounting bracket to inspect your caliber is sliding correctly on its bolts and possibly and lube to bolt pins to ensure caliber does not get stuck or frozen
It's always been my practice to apply silicone grease to the underside of the clips and just a bit to where the brake pads ride in the caliper holder, metal on metal isn't good, can cause wear and noise.
That's not a bad practice and I tend to agree. These pads have a separate rubber backing that rides against the piston that absorbs vibrations and prevents squeaking. It's almost time for my next brake change and so far, no squeaking. In one of my other videos for a Ford Explorer, I apply grease to the backs of the pads because they don't have the dampener on the back of them, so by all means, use grease where you see fit.
Correct me if I’m wrong but when pushing the pistons back don’t you have to open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir to release the pressure for those pistons to go back?
You are right in your thinking and a lot of older models have a sealed cap. Newer vehicles (80's and up) have a diaphragm/vent built into the cap the expands and collapses as fluid volume changes. I try not to expose the brake fluid to the air any more than necessary due to possible contaminants entering the system. Thank you for commenting!
Usually, this happens because you've added additional fluid to the system, so compressing the pistons will push all that fluid back out. The cap has an expanding diaphragm the takes up the space the fluid leaves behind as your pads wear, then when you compress them, the diaphragm collapses and returns to it regular shape. I'm sorry you pushed fluid everywhere, but unfortunately that would have still happened with the cap off.
I think you skipped a step on this, my brakes didn’t line up. Found the solution on another video. Don’t have to bend the clips on the pads when assembled correctly
It's always a good idea to had the rotors turned when replacing the pads. You want the pads to seat onto a flush surface, if there is any grooving or uneven wear you are going to ruin your new pads and possibly feel a shutter or shimmy in the front end when braking.
As long as your rotors aren't grooved, warped, or scored, then they don't need to be turned. The pads will wear into the old rotors just fine. Now, if there was any "shutter" when stopping or if the pad wore through to the backing, then they'll need to be turned or replaced. If you turn your rotors every time, then you are wasting money on turning and prematurely wearing out your rotors.
@@RoadandReel you won’t see the uneven surface wear, the turning process when done correctly won’t take very much material on barely worn rotor. The obvious groove or warping for sure. Most people watching these videos won’t know the difference and for something as important as brakes, especially front brakes it needs to be mentioned. I think finding a place to get it done properly may be harder to find since nearly all manufacturers require on hub turning these days.
@@rambokd when I replace my rotors in the future, I'll be sure to mention it and go through some of the basic manufacturer recommendations in the video. Any more, I think it is more cost effective to replace rotors rather than resurfacing them. And like I said before, unless it specifically mentions it in the service manual or if there is obvious warping or surging, then it's just not necessary from a safety standpoint. I can see where you are coming from and I appreciate you mentioning this. Feel free to drop a video in the comments that covers all of this and I will mention it in a pinned comment where others can see it.
@@RoadandReel I wouldn't bother turning them. Its an over rated odd-timer practice. What they want to charge these days to spin them, I replace the rotors ever other brake job. I have been communing in the Rockies for 30 years over 100 miles each day up and down 2,000 feet and have put over 750K miles committing to work. I don't tolerate any BS. Pulling or pulsating ill just throw the entire assembly away and install new.
@@omorin34 I just hit 125k and I'm going to replace the rotors and completely service the calipers. Everything is still wearing evenly without pulsating or shaking, but they are getting to the minimum thickness and I tow a lot, but I agree with everything you said.
@@joshuaboyd7666 I do. I usually put it on the pin and where the pad slides in the caliper and I usually put some anti squeak on the back of the pad where the piston meets.
I didn't remove any clamps and the pistons stay in place. Which clamp are you referring to? The new pads are thicker, so you need to press the pistons and make the opening wider to accommodate the new size.
13sweep13 If you're using a c-clamp to compress the pistons you can take it off once you finish compressing the piston. It won't move again until you press the brake pedal. You can also compress the caliper piston with the old brake pads still in place and a Wonder bar or other type of small pry bar. Just don't do that with the new pads in pace.
If you are talking about using it to reduce noise, then yes. If you are talking about lubricating the slide or any moving parts, then no. It's not going to hurt any rubber parts, but it will gunk up and harden on the moving stuff and cause issues. I recommend the dedicated brake slide lube for the moving parts.
Lol, $100 each is cheap. Must be nice. You can do whatever you want with your money, but as long as my rotors aren't grooved or cracked or grinding or shaking or too thin or warped or rusted, I'm not changing them.
Lol, $100 each is cheap. Must be nice. You can do whatever you want with your money, but as long as my rotors aren't grooved or cracked or grinding or shaking or too thin or warped or rusted, I'm not changing them.
It's placed under the trailing arm on the axle, right where it attaches. It's a very safe and sturdy place, just make sure to use a jackstand under the frame for extra security.
That's for the caliper pins. I took off the entire caliper bracket, which is necessary if anyone wants to remove their rotors. It's a much larger bolt and under a lot more strain.
That was my mistake. I was trying out what some people said in another video. I usually do it for inspection, but in this case I just went with it. You can check out my newest video on a New Ford Explorer to see how to do it properly, but it sounds like you already have a handle on things. Good luck with your brakes!
You are correct. If I am going to lube everything in the caliper (like I should), then that's how I would do it. I will be completely disassembling, cleaning and lubing the caliper parts on my next brake job as I should be close to the 100,000 mile mark.
I’m wondering the same. I saw another video where the guy swung out just the mounting bracket and the pads got put in from the back so he didn’t have to bend those Springs all to hell to get them in from the front.
Hey thanks for the video. You committed a heinous crime in brake repair. You never want to squeeze the brake fluid from the caliper back into the system. It’s been thermocycled 50,000 times, it’s dirty, and probably has a lot of water in it. You always want to crack the bleeder and bleed it out while your compressing the caliper. Add fresh fluid to the system when your done.
Hmm, I'm going to disagree with you here. The brake fluid system is closed so dirt and grime don't enter. I will give you the water that may be in the system, but brake fluid is usually changed every few years or so as the thermocycling within the system doesn't cause water to enter unless there is exposure of fluid to the atmosphere. I would argue that adding a partial amount of fluid at each brake service would add more contamination than pushing the fluid back into the reservoir from the calipers. That's why the brake shop doesn't do it this way. Fluid should never be added like this unless the system is going to be flushed and all new fluid added.
@@RoadandReel 10-4 man I was just wondering because I know it helps with the squealing. My brand new from the factory brakes squeak so I will definitely be using grease when I put my power stop pads on
@@JD-sl1qs I have found that some of that harder pads are more prone to squealing. I don't blame you for putting it on first. It's a whole lot easier than finding out they squeak and then having to do it again! Good luck.
I always bleed them especially if they were wearing more on one side! good sign you might have a little air in the lines. Either way you should always bleed them so easy anyways!🤙
Brakes are spongy when there is air in the lines. If they are wearing on one side, it's usually do to your caliper sticking and then it should be rebuilt. Bleeding your brakes every time is just a waste of fluid and an easy way to introduce contaminants into the system. Once that happens, the fluid needs to be evacuated and refilled.
Didn't need it, but go right ahead if you feel yours need it. I don't have any warpage or squeaking and there wasn't any scoring, so they'll get changed the next time along with a complete rebuild of the calipers.
Rotors were still in spec and didn't need to be turned. That being said, I just turned over 140,000 miles on the factory rotors and upgraded to the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors and it is a world of difference! A new video on that upgrade should be out in the next couple of weeks.
New updated video is here ruclips.net/video/W76o3dx6QKk/видео.html
I use all the tips from the comments in this one and upgrade to new Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors.
You could also use the old brake pad to push the pistons back 👍🏾
Oooooh thank you sir
I was about to say the same thing! good ole trick, just press the old pad!
Big thanks!!
I was wondering that 🤣! Good catch
This guy miss a lot of important details .. 🤔
So if you ever want to know the exact best way to do something just do the thing and post a video of it and commenters will tell you where you went wrong. Never fails. Good video.
Yeah, it's been the best education. I have a new updated video coming out in a couple of weeks.
Thanks brother for your video very helpful!
I just finished my front brake pads and realized that the 3/4” bolts don’t have to be removed. Only the smaller caliper bolts need to come off. Hopefully this helps you and others in the future! Thanks again for sharing!🙏🙏🙏
I appreciate it, thanks!
I've done alot of brake jobs! So I learned to where yellow color gloves at harbor freight! The other thing is use the old brake pad that the piston side and use the c clamp to push in the pistons! Thanks for the video! Dave
Yeah, I've started using the old brake pads for that. It's a great trick! And those gloves are life savers, as well!
You should learn how to compress a brake caliper piston with a pry bar by prying between the caliper and brake pad before disassembly. Makes this stuff even easier 😁
I'm going to try this out the next time to see how it works.
Thank you for the post ,it was useful for my DIY situation today while on the road in MD
Awesome! I'm glad it helped!
Great vidio helped a lot with the learning curb. I did how ever run into one problem the brake pads and hardware i used was made in India no manafactor info on box bought at Oreilly,s the caliper clips were junk would not work to thick poor quillity control had to use the old ones. worked an extra hour in 101 heat before i coumpared old clips to the new ones. just for everyones information.
Thanks for letting us all know that. Unfortunately, quality control on some of these isn't the greatest.
That truck has some big balls. Great for a big balled man.
Great video. I'm doing my 2015 Powerwagon in the next couple of weeks. Also I bought a set of new takeoff Black rims like you have. I think they look pretty sharp compared to the polished aluminum ones that come with the truck.
I love the black rim look and they are a lot more durable than the usual aluminum rims and less likely to taco on the trails.
I don't want to take anything from your video but a recommendation is not to remove the caliper bracket but only the caliper. Use the old brake pad to push in the caliper pistons and open the master cylinder reservoir prior to pushing the pistons
Thanks, I appreciate the input. I'm planning a new video in the future where I address all this. I will be rebuilding the calipers and showing how the cap is built to expand and contract without spewing fluid. I will also be showing some new things I've learned since this video came out. Again, thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
I was thinking the same. Never saw the bracket removed before. Always remove the pins and inspect them for seizures or lack of grease.
Yea I was like what the heck why would you take the bracket off u take the caliper off so u can grease the pins
you should really remove caliber from mounting bracket to inspect your caliber is sliding correctly on its bolts and possibly and lube to bolt pins to ensure caliber does not get stuck or frozen
Consult the vehicle shop manual for all torque specifications.
It's always been my practice to apply silicone grease to the underside of the clips and just a bit to where the brake pads ride in the caliper holder, metal on metal isn't good, can cause wear and noise.
That's not a bad practice and I tend to agree. These pads have a separate rubber backing that rides against the piston that absorbs vibrations and prevents squeaking. It's almost time for my next brake change and so far, no squeaking. In one of my other videos for a Ford Explorer, I apply grease to the backs of the pads because they don't have the dampener on the back of them, so by all means, use grease where you see fit.
Causes wear and noise? HA! Wait till you find out all vehicles come like that from the factory😒
Correct me if I’m wrong but when pushing the pistons back don’t you have to open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir to release the pressure for those pistons to go back?
You are right in your thinking and a lot of older models have a sealed cap. Newer vehicles (80's and up) have a diaphragm/vent built into the cap the expands and collapses as fluid volume changes. I try not to expose the brake fluid to the air any more than necessary due to possible contaminants entering the system. Thank you for commenting!
Unfortunately I followed this guys video and had fluid all over the place. 😢
Hopefully it didn’t blow a seal out of the reservoir
Usually, this happens because you've added additional fluid to the system, so compressing the pistons will push all that fluid back out. The cap has an expanding diaphragm the takes up the space the fluid leaves behind as your pads wear, then when you compress them, the diaphragm collapses and returns to it regular shape. I'm sorry you pushed fluid everywhere, but unfortunately that would have still happened with the cap off.
Maybe different but, on my past Honda it was to prevent braking the sensor inside.
leave the old pad in on the piston to use to collapse the pistons, one less tool or step
Thanks, I've started doing that and it is a great time saver and makes everything a lot easier. I recommend that for anyone. Thanks for the comment!
You are totally my neighbor and I am doing this today lol
Haha, small world!
Yo - jp . my housing that contains the pistons will not move to let the inner pad line up to the rotor . it needs to . any ideas ??
It's probably just a little stuck or rusty. Try some penetrating oil, but make sure not to get it on the rotors.
I think you skipped a step on this, my brakes didn’t line up. Found the solution on another video. Don’t have to bend the clips on the pads when assembled correctly
Solid video. Thanks dude
thanks jp . you right . they rusty . didnt know what to do so replaced with new . wish i in mountains too .
Use the old brake pad and c clamp to compress pistons.
Yeah, that's a good tip.
If I remember correctly, lug nuts specs are 130-135 ft lbs and the caliper bolts are a manly 275 ft lbs.
Loosen up your master cylinder cap rap a rag arond or under it jst incase extra fluid pushes out
It's always a good idea to had the rotors turned when replacing the pads. You want the pads to seat onto a flush surface, if there is any grooving or uneven wear you are going to ruin your new pads and possibly feel a shutter or shimmy in the front end when braking.
As long as your rotors aren't grooved, warped, or scored, then they don't need to be turned. The pads will wear into the old rotors just fine. Now, if there was any "shutter" when stopping or if the pad wore through to the backing, then they'll need to be turned or replaced. If you turn your rotors every time, then you are wasting money on turning and prematurely wearing out your rotors.
@@RoadandReel you won’t see the uneven surface wear, the turning process when done correctly won’t take very much material on barely worn rotor. The obvious groove or warping for sure. Most people watching these videos won’t know the difference and for something as important as brakes, especially front brakes it needs to be mentioned. I think finding a place to get it done properly may be harder to find since nearly all manufacturers require on hub turning these days.
@@rambokd when I replace my rotors in the future, I'll be sure to mention it and go through some of the basic manufacturer recommendations in the video. Any more, I think it is more cost effective to replace rotors rather than resurfacing them. And like I said before, unless it specifically mentions it in the service manual or if there is obvious warping or surging, then it's just not necessary from a safety standpoint. I can see where you are coming from and I appreciate you mentioning this. Feel free to drop a video in the comments that covers all of this and I will mention it in a pinned comment where others can see it.
@@RoadandReel I wouldn't bother turning them. Its an over rated odd-timer practice. What they want to charge these days to spin them, I replace the rotors ever other brake job. I have been communing in the Rockies for 30 years over 100 miles each day up and down 2,000 feet and have put over 750K miles committing to work. I don't tolerate any BS. Pulling or pulsating ill just throw the entire assembly away and install new.
@@omorin34 I just hit 125k and I'm going to replace the rotors and completely service the calipers. Everything is still wearing evenly without pulsating or shaking, but they are getting to the minimum thickness and I tow a lot, but I agree with everything you said.
Thanks for the video. Is that a 1/2” or 3/4” drill? Thanks
It's the M18 1/2". I love it. It goes everywhere with my truck and trailer.
Thank you very much for the post
Nice brah! Nice.
Do you use brake grease?
@@joshuaboyd7666 I do. I usually put it on the pin and where the pad slides in the caliper and I usually put some anti squeak on the back of the pad where the piston meets.
“Unless you have more lead in your pencil.” 😂😂😂
😁
thanks for the vid!
Thanks for the post man
Did you have to bleed the breaks or anything? I'm looking to change my breaks in my 2015 2500. Will be my first time attempting.
No need to bleed the brakes unless you undo a brake line or leak fluid.
When did you take the clamp off? Do the pistons come back out or hold their position?
I didn't remove any clamps and the pistons stay in place. Which clamp are you referring to? The new pads are thicker, so you need to press the pistons and make the opening wider to accommodate the new size.
13sweep13 If you're using a c-clamp to compress the pistons you can take it off once you finish compressing the piston. It won't move again until you press the brake pedal. You can also compress the caliper piston with the old brake pads still in place and a Wonder bar or other type of small pry bar. Just don't do that with the new pads in pace.
Hey JP should i take the top cap off my brake reservoir before compression of caliper?
@@RoadandReel Thank you! That is what i needed. I have done brakes many times and always bleed them but now i know the best way. Wow much easier.
Nope, no need to remove the cap on the brake reservoir. They usually expand and will collapse as you push the caliper in.
Thanks Buddy.
No problem!
Do you still have to bleed the breaks on newer trucks?
Only if you disconnect a brake line like when changing a caliper. Otherwise, just changing the brake pads, you don't need to bleed the brakes.
I like that truck !!
Thanks!
At the end of the video did you out your lug nuts back on clock wise or did you do a criss cross star pattern just curious
I criss cross first and then tighten everything down clockwise just to be safe.
Do the brake hardware clips make noise? I think mine are loose for some reason and I don’t know why.
Mine are very tight and don't make any noise, but I have seen them broken and squeak on other vehicles.
trokiando cuhh!
What did you do with that little piece you put on the pistons.
I used it to push on the pistons evenly at the same time. You could just as easily use the old brake pad.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
If you are talking about using it to reduce noise, then yes. If you are talking about lubricating the slide or any moving parts, then no. It's not going to hurt any rubber parts, but it will gunk up and harden on the moving stuff and cause issues. I recommend the dedicated brake slide lube for the moving parts.
Where can I buy the soundtrack?
Same process for Ram 3500?
Going to find out today... front will need done, most likely rears too. Using the same pads Duralast Gold.
Should be and it has a lot of the same part numbers as well.
I just use the old brake pad to push the calipers back😉
Someone else mentioned that and that's what I've been doing since. Way easier and convenient!
Pad swap? No resurfacing or replacement of the rotors? Rot0rs are cheap $100 each...
Lol, $100 each is cheap. Must be nice. You can do whatever you want with your money, but as long as my rotors aren't grooved or cracked or grinding or shaking or too thin or warped or rusted, I'm not changing them.
Lol, $100 each is cheap. Must be nice. You can do whatever you want with your money, but as long as my rotors aren't grooved or cracked or grinding or shaking or too thin or warped or rusted, I'm not changing them.
This applies to 2010-2018
Thanks
Where did you plack the jack at to lift up the front? Is that a safe spot?
It's placed under the trailing arm on the axle, right where it attaches. It's a very safe and sturdy place, just make sure to use a jackstand under the frame for extra security.
thank you for sharing this vedio...I well share good news I hope you too.
Yes, thank you
I think you may be wrong on the torque specs everything I read was 34 ft lb of torque
That's for the caliper pins. I took off the entire caliper bracket, which is necessary if anyone wants to remove their rotors. It's a much larger bolt and under a lot more strain.
Good vidio
You really should've took some brake cleaner and cleaned those calipers and put some grease where the pistons meet the pads.
Usually, I do. It may have been off camera
I don’t understand why you took the brake caliper bracket off. You only have to remove the brake caliper.
That was my mistake. I was trying out what some people said in another video. I usually do it for inspection, but in this case I just went with it. You can check out my newest video on a New Ford Explorer to see how to do it properly, but it sounds like you already have a handle on things. Good luck with your brakes!
@@RoadandReel It's more than likely they were also replacing the rotor which is why they tool off the whole bracket.
I believe this is a 2 part caliper and you did not have to take the whole caliper off for pad replacement.
You are correct. If I am going to lube everything in the caliper (like I should), then that's how I would do it. I will be completely disassembling, cleaning and lubing the caliper parts on my next brake job as I should be close to the 100,000 mile mark.
Yep, the dozierdennis video on the 2500 shows the right way to do it.
Why did he take the caliper bracket off again?
It's just the way I've always done it from working on earlier models where it was necessary.
I’m wondering the same. I saw another video where the guy swung out just the mounting bracket and the pads got put in from the back so he didn’t have to bend those Springs all to hell to get them in from the front.
You don’t need to bleed the brakes?
Nope, no need as long as the lines aren't opened.
Hey thanks for the video. You committed a heinous crime in brake repair. You never want to squeeze the brake fluid from the caliper back into the system. It’s been thermocycled 50,000 times, it’s dirty, and probably has a lot of water in it. You always want to crack the bleeder and bleed it out while your compressing the caliper. Add fresh fluid to the system when your done.
Hmm, I'm going to disagree with you here. The brake fluid system is closed so dirt and grime don't enter. I will give you the water that may be in the system, but brake fluid is usually changed every few years or so as the thermocycling within the system doesn't cause water to enter unless there is exposure of fluid to the atmosphere. I would argue that adding a partial amount of fluid at each brake service would add more contamination than pushing the fluid back into the reservoir from the calipers. That's why the brake shop doesn't do it this way. Fluid should never be added like this unless the system is going to be flushed and all new fluid added.
Is this a Cummins?
No, 3/4 ton 6.4L Hemi
U should take ur truck to the meets
@@RoadandReel paLabra after this quarantine
No brake grease??
I didn't have any binding or uneven wear, so I didn't do it. I will be doing an intensive brake caliper video pretty soon with my 100k tune-up.
@@RoadandReel 10-4 man I was just wondering because I know it helps with the squealing. My brand new from the factory brakes squeak so I will definitely be using grease when I put my power stop pads on
@@JD-sl1qs I have found that some of that harder pads are more prone to squealing. I don't blame you for putting it on first. It's a whole lot easier than finding out they squeak and then having to do it again! Good luck.
There's no need to remove the caliper bracket
True
You dont have to take off the the whole bracket
@@gtxxsn1per95xx There's an updated video addressing this.
Take the bottom out roll it up
@@rossboyack7434 I have a new video that shows this.
I always bleed them especially if they were wearing more on one side! good sign you might have a little air in the lines.
Either way you should always bleed them so easy anyways!🤙
Brakes are spongy when there is air in the lines. If they are wearing on one side, it's usually do to your caliper sticking and then it should be rebuilt. Bleeding your brakes every time is just a waste of fluid and an easy way to introduce contaminants into the system. Once that happens, the fluid needs to be evacuated and refilled.
Hay man you do what you do! No hard feelings!🤙
Didn't replace rotors? Lol
Didn't need it, but go right ahead if you feel yours need it. I don't have any warpage or squeaking and there wasn't any scoring, so they'll get changed the next time along with a complete rebuild of the calipers.
What about the rotors ? Cmon man that’s a many thousand dollars truck and you are not replacing the rotors .. that’s a inconvenience
Rotors were still in spec and didn't need to be turned. That being said, I just turned over 140,000 miles on the factory rotors and upgraded to the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors and it is a world of difference! A new video on that upgrade should be out in the next couple of weeks.
@@RoadandReel $400+ rotors and carbon fiber pads , makes a great difference .. shine wheels longer and great stop 👍
Don’t forget to bleed your brakes afterward!
The brake lines weren't opened so no need to bleed them.
What the heck is wrong with all these people saying to bleed the brakes? Not needed.
Thanks for the video 👍👍
No problem 👍