Thanks a ton for the vid! Came here after I received quotes from multiple mechanics for $450-ish to change just the rear brakes. I’ll definitely be doing it myself, thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks lmao
Thanks for the comments, glad the video was able to help you with your Passat repair. Be sure to check out our other B7 videos on the channel. ruclips.net/p/PLFnK0z3T00fUdCPKGUOVn-zfdehEpOKK8&si=x4FpKTttP2uUO76n Cheers!
The one thing I came looking for is how to disengage the Electronic Hand Brake. My idea is to ensure the vehicle is chocked well, ignition on & release the EHB?
Thanks for the question Broadsword, we are assuming you have a newer B8 Passat with the electronic parking brake option? You can do the rear brakes on the newer B8 Passat along with other VW/Audi vehicles that have the EPB function without needing the VAG-COM scan tool. There are (2) options to accomplish this - Option 1: Before removing the caliper you can unplug the connector that is attached to the EPB motor on the backside of the caliper. Then you can remove the caliper as you normally would. You will need a 12 volt source with two small leads. We like to use the M12 Milwaukee battery for this job since it very compact and versatile. You can see that in action here in another one of our videos - ruclips.net/video/aATId3ZnljM/видео.htmlsi=sRBaA5FvJyNN9lB8&t=97 Then you can simple touch the EPB motor connector with the probes and the motor will either go forward or reverse. If it happens to start going outwards (pushing the piston out) then all you need to do is swap the probes to reverse the polarity. The motor will then draw the screw drive in and you will hear a noticeable change in the pitch. Once you hear that you know the motor has backed all the way in and you can now safely push the piston back using the normal caliper piston tool. Here's quick video that shows what I'm trying to explain. ruclips.net/video/D83EATLH6lI/видео.htmlsi=25BK0y1_2ZNKlbow&t=107 Option 2: Remove the EPB motor from the backside of the caliper. This is accomplished by removing the (2) T30/Hex bolts depending on the model. Once the motor is removed, you can use a torx socket to manually turn the Motor screw drive mechanism in. You will be turning it clockwise in order for it to retract. After that you can use the normal caliper piston tool to press the piston back. Here's a quick video that demonstrates that - ruclips.net/video/I7snMZx3m_I/видео.htmlsi=gFWMiZYLffKvImOq&t=196 Hope this helps you with you Passat project, let us know how things go. Cheers!
I’m amazed that you were able to fit a torque wrench in the wheel well @19:25 for the top caliber bolt, with the torque wrench handle pointing up! Was that some sort of special short-handled torque wrench? My Kobalt 3/8 torque wrench is 17” long, and could never fit in that scenario.
Thanks for the comments Ted, we are using the older generation Craftsman 3/8" digital torque wrench. www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-8221-dr-25-250-in-lb-torque-wrench-24t/p-A102532187 We just picked up a spare, since I didn't even realize Sears.com was still around and it was too cheap to pass up. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks for the detailed reply, much appreciated! I looked it up (using your handy URL) and that Craftsman 3/8" digital torque wrench is 16", so it's only 1" shorter than my Kobalt. On my Beetle and GTI, I'd never be able to fit a 16" torque wrench in the wheel well either. If possible, I'd love to see you include a 30 sec portion on your next VW rear brake job, showing you actually sticking in the torque wrench (that part is edited out of this video), as there's clearly something I'm missing w/r/t fitting a torque wrench in there w/o removing the fender lining or using a Harry Potter incantation. The front wheels are no problem, as I can turn the steering wheel and thereby angle the wheels letting me have all the room in the world for the torque wrench handle. But the rears have me stumped. Cheers!
Thanks for the questions Mike, the OEM bolt is a T30 Torx. As long as no one has used an aftermarket one, that should work for you. Good luck on your VW project. Cheers!
I’m having trouble compressing the piston. I bought the specific tool and tried to. The piston looked to just be spinning in place and not compressing in. Any tips?
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your VW Dustin. The rear calipers on the B7 Passat are the twist back style which need to be pressed in while rotating. It is important that the two teeth are engaged in the piston and there is pressure being applied while turning. If you are rotating without pressing, the piston will not be pushed in and it could actually damage the piston seal. Good luck on your VW project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the tip. The brake caliper tool can be borrowed from any major parts store for free. It's easier with the tool as the needle nose pliers can be tough on a sticky caliper. Cheers!
Thanks for the question Evan, the Jetta uses a very similar design. the process will be virtually the same as on the Passat, just using different pads/rotors. You will still need the brake caliper tool and the triple square socket to remove the carriers. Good luck on your VW project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Hey Jonathan, thanks for the question. The 2021 uses a different pad that is unique to just that model - www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-lining-genuine-vw-7n0698451b However the process for doing the rear brakes will be virtually the same as our video. You will still need the brake caliper tool to push the pistons in. Good luck on your VW project, Cheers!
Thanks for the question Ray, we purchased it from Amazon. Here is the link - www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Compressor-Replacement/dp/B01FW3U26G Good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Hey Oscar, thanks for the question. Are you currently having an issue with the e-brake, like it is stuck on or won't engage? Or, are you looking to do the rear brake and need to know how to push the piston back in order to change the brake pads without a scan tool? Happy to help get you back on the road, let us know. Cheers!
Ok Can I ask the same question? because I want to replace my rear pads and rota's, so will I need a VCDS or VAG to reset the brakes after they've been replaced. Regards John.@@BradleysGarage
@@johncrowther8912 Hey John, apologies for not providing the solution to Oscar above as we had never heard back from him. You can do the rear brakes on the newer B8 Passat along with other VW/Audi vehicles that have the EPB function without needing the VAG-COM scan tool. There are (2) options to accomplish this - Option 1: Before removing the caliper you can unplug the connector that is attached to the EPB motor on the backside of the caliper. The you can remove the caliper as you normally would. You will need a 12 volt source with two small leads. We like to use the M12 Milwaukee battery for this job since it very compact and versatile. You can see that in action here in another one of our videos - ruclips.net/video/aATId3ZnljM/видео.htmlsi=sRBaA5FvJyNN9lB8&t=97 Then you can simple touch the EPB motor connector with the probes and the motor will either go forward or reverse. if it happens to start going outwards (pushing the piston out) then all you need to do is swap the probes to reverse the polarity. The motor will then draw the screw drive in and you will hear a noticeable change in the pitch. Once you hear that you know the motor has backed all the way in and you can now safely push the piston back using the normal caliper piston tool. Here's quick video that shows what I'm trying to explain. ruclips.net/video/D83EATLH6lI/видео.htmlsi=25BK0y1_2ZNKlbow&t=107 Option 2: Remove the EPB motor from the backside of the caliper. This is accomplished by removing the (2) T30/Hex bolts depending on the model. Once the motor is removed, you can use a torx socket to manually turn the Motor screw drive mechanism in. You will be turning it clockwise in order for it to retract. After that you can use the normal caliper piston tool to press the piston back. Here's a quick video that demonstrates that - ruclips.net/video/I7snMZx3m_I/видео.htmlsi=gFWMiZYLffKvImOq&t=196 Hope this helps you with you Passat project, Cheers!
Service manual says to replace the bracket bolts as they are stretch bolts, otherwise nice job. +1 for including bolt sizes and torque values, although it seems you got the bracket bolt torque wrong? My manual says 90Nm+90 degree turn, whereas you list 89 ftlbs
Thanks for the info on the torque values, you are correct it should be (90Nm + 90 degree turn. We should have mentioned that they should be replaced. Since we decided to "reuse" them, we added blue loctite and torqued them to 89 ft. lbs, which is about 30% above the initial 90Nm value. 89 ft. lbs is already crazy tight, it would interesting to see what it's at after the 90 degree turn with new bolts. Here are the bolts if you decide to replace them, they are only $3.99 so it makes sense- www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-disc-brake-caliper-bolt-rear-vag-n91168901 Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage did the job today. Indeed a pain to get those extra 90 degrees on the bolts. Might be doable with a lift, but with minimum clearance on stands and the odd space the bolts are in it was definitely a hassle to get them out and back in
@@YourFavouriteComment Thanks for the update. They were very tight for us to remove so I can only imagine trying to "stretch" them back to the factory specs. I'm satisfied with the 89 ft. lbs + blue threadlock on ours. Been driving for thousands of miles since the video and all is well. Thanks again for hanging out and sharing your feedback. Cheers!
Thanks for the question Darren, our B7 does not have an electronic parking brake. I don't think they offered the EPB in the states as all of ours have a standard parking brake. If you B7 has the EPB feature, you will either need VCDS to release the EPB or you will need to remove the two screws and manually turn the piston back. Good luck on your Passat project, Cheers!
Thanks for the question Roman. Our preferred gloves are made by MicroFlex Diamond Grip - www.amazon.com/Microflex-MF-300-M-Diamond-Textured-Fingers/dp/B002T11XJ0 We purchase them by the case, 10 boxes in each case. If you are looking for a longer sleeve/thicker gloves then we use these - www.amazon.com/Microflex-SAFEGRIP-LATEX-GLOVES-MEDIUM/dp/B000JFN9UE These are thicker and obviously cost more than the regular gloves. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Tim, it does help hold the rotor during the reassembly phase. It would never be a problem if guys didn't tighten the crap out of it for no reason. Cheers!
Can we stop putting lube on the ears of brake pads. There is a reason manufacturers don't do it from the factory. All it does is collect dirt and bake dust and after a few thousand miles your pads get stuck and cause uneven brake wear and shortens your pad and rotor life. The point of replacing the clips on the bracket is to give the pad a nice surface to slide on. No lube is required
Thanks for the suggestions Bryce, appreciate the feedback. That's the way my pops showed me many, many years ago so I guess it's an old habit that won't die. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Jesus, appreciate the feedback. We have been doing it that way for more than 40 years and never had a problem removing lug nuts/wheel studs from our cars. No wheel had ever come loose from having Anti-Seize on them. It's simply a corrosion prevention, if you have ever tried to remove rusted on lug nuts, you'd be using it as well. You can choose whether or not you want to use anti-seize on your project. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Daniel, we prefer to use a small amount on the threads to prevent corrosion. It also helps to remove lugs when you have a flat on the side of the road and are trying to change to a spare. Since the car tools are limited, it helps to not have any corrosion cause issues on the side of the road. At the end of the day, everyone can decide for themselves how they would like to do things. We have been using antiseize on lugs for 40+ years and have never had a wheel fall off yet. Cheers!
Thanks for the question Ray, we purchased it from Amazon. Here is the link - www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Compressor-Replacement/dp/B01FW3U26G Good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Thanks a ton for the vid! Came here after I received quotes from multiple mechanics for $450-ish to change just the rear brakes. I’ll definitely be doing it myself, thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks lmao
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your VW project, let us know how things go.
Cheers!
Changing my own brakes for the first time today and was able to go get everything I needed tools wise thanks to this videos 🤝🏾
Thanks for the comments, glad the video was able to help you with your Passat repair. Be sure to check out our other B7 videos on the channel.
ruclips.net/p/PLFnK0z3T00fUdCPKGUOVn-zfdehEpOKK8&si=x4FpKTttP2uUO76n
Cheers!
Links, tools needed, clear instruction. Thanks so much man ill be ordering parts soon
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Passat project, let us know how things go.
Cheers!
Another great informative video!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
The one thing I came looking for is how to disengage the Electronic Hand Brake. My idea is to ensure the vehicle is chocked well, ignition on & release the EHB?
Thanks for the question Broadsword, we are assuming you have a newer B8 Passat with the electronic parking brake option?
You can do the rear brakes on the newer B8 Passat along with other VW/Audi vehicles that have the EPB function without needing the VAG-COM scan tool.
There are (2) options to accomplish this -
Option 1: Before removing the caliper you can unplug the connector that is attached to the EPB motor on the backside of the caliper. Then you can remove the caliper as you normally would. You will need a 12 volt source with two small leads. We like to use the M12 Milwaukee battery for this job since it very compact and versatile.
You can see that in action here in another one of our videos - ruclips.net/video/aATId3ZnljM/видео.htmlsi=sRBaA5FvJyNN9lB8&t=97
Then you can simple touch the EPB motor connector with the probes and the motor will either go forward or reverse. If it happens to start going outwards (pushing the piston out) then all you need to do is swap the probes to reverse the polarity. The motor will then draw the screw drive in and you will hear a noticeable change in the pitch. Once you hear that you know the motor has backed all the way in and you can now safely push the piston back using the normal caliper piston tool.
Here's quick video that shows what I'm trying to explain.
ruclips.net/video/D83EATLH6lI/видео.htmlsi=25BK0y1_2ZNKlbow&t=107
Option 2: Remove the EPB motor from the backside of the caliper. This is accomplished by removing the (2) T30/Hex bolts depending on the model. Once the motor is removed, you can use a torx socket to manually turn the Motor screw drive mechanism in. You will be turning it clockwise in order for it to retract. After that you can use the normal caliper piston tool to press the piston back.
Here's a quick video that demonstrates that - ruclips.net/video/I7snMZx3m_I/видео.htmlsi=gFWMiZYLffKvImOq&t=196
Hope this helps you with you Passat project, let us know how things go.
Cheers!
I’m amazed that you were able to fit a torque wrench in the wheel well @19:25 for the top caliber bolt, with the torque wrench handle pointing up!
Was that some sort of special short-handled torque wrench? My Kobalt 3/8 torque wrench is 17” long, and could never fit in that scenario.
Thanks for the comments Ted, we are using the older generation Craftsman 3/8" digital torque wrench. www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-8221-dr-25-250-in-lb-torque-wrench-24t/p-A102532187
We just picked up a spare, since I didn't even realize Sears.com was still around and it was too cheap to pass up.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks for the detailed reply, much appreciated! I looked it up (using your handy URL) and that Craftsman 3/8" digital torque wrench is 16", so it's only 1" shorter than my Kobalt. On my Beetle and GTI, I'd never be able to fit a 16" torque wrench in the wheel well either. If possible, I'd love to see you include a 30 sec portion on your next VW rear brake job, showing you actually sticking in the torque wrench (that part is edited out of this video), as there's clearly something I'm missing w/r/t fitting a torque wrench in there w/o removing the fender lining or using a Harry Potter incantation. The front wheels are no problem, as I can turn the steering wheel and thereby angle the wheels letting me have all the room in the world for the torque wrench handle. But the rears have me stumped. Cheers!
Excellent approach!!! Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video.
Good luck on your VW project, Cheers!
What size torque or allen is the bolt on holding the roror on
Never mind
Thanks for the questions Mike, the OEM bolt is a T30 Torx. As long as no one has used an aftermarket one, that should work for you.
Good luck on your VW project.
Cheers!
T14 triple square
I’m having trouble compressing the piston. I bought the specific tool and tried to. The piston looked to just be spinning in place and not compressing in.
Any tips?
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your VW Dustin. The rear calipers on the B7 Passat are the twist back style which need to be pressed in while rotating. It is important that the two teeth are engaged in the piston and there is pressure being applied while turning. If you are rotating without pressing, the piston will not be pushed in and it could actually damage the piston seal.
Good luck on your VW project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
To anyone who doesn’t want to buy the caliber compression tool, a needle nose pliers works fine, just squeeze tight
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the tip. The brake caliper tool can be borrowed from any major parts store for free. It's easier with the tool as the needle nose pliers can be tough on a sticky caliper.
Cheers!
Will this video apply to a 2015 tsi Jetta.
Thanks for the question Evan, the Jetta uses a very similar design. the process will be virtually the same as on the Passat, just using different pads/rotors. You will still need the brake caliper tool and the triple square socket to remove the carriers.
Good luck on your VW project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
Is this the same as a 2021 model
Hey Jonathan, thanks for the question. The 2021 uses a different pad that is unique to just that model - www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-lining-genuine-vw-7n0698451b
However the process for doing the rear brakes will be virtually the same as our video. You will still need the brake caliper tool to push the pistons in.
Good luck on your VW project, Cheers!
Why would you even put the assembly screw back in 😂
Where did you get that compression kit from
Thanks for the question Ray, we purchased it from Amazon. Here is the link - www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Compressor-Replacement/dp/B01FW3U26G
Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
I have a 2017 VW Passat would I need an vag com scanner to reset the electronic parking brake?
Hey Oscar, thanks for the question. Are you currently having an issue with the e-brake, like it is stuck on or won't engage?
Or, are you looking to do the rear brake and need to know how to push the piston back in order to change the brake pads without a scan tool?
Happy to help get you back on the road, let us know.
Cheers!
Ok Can I ask the same question? because I want to replace my rear pads and rota's, so will I need a VCDS or VAG to reset the brakes after they've been replaced. Regards John.@@BradleysGarage
@@johncrowther8912 Hey John, apologies for not providing the solution to Oscar above as we had never heard back from him.
You can do the rear brakes on the newer B8 Passat along with other VW/Audi vehicles that have the EPB function without needing the VAG-COM scan tool.
There are (2) options to accomplish this -
Option 1: Before removing the caliper you can unplug the connector that is attached to the EPB motor on the backside of the caliper. The you can remove the caliper as you normally would. You will need a 12 volt source with two small leads. We like to use the M12 Milwaukee battery for this job since it very compact and versatile.
You can see that in action here in another one of our videos - ruclips.net/video/aATId3ZnljM/видео.htmlsi=sRBaA5FvJyNN9lB8&t=97
Then you can simple touch the EPB motor connector with the probes and the motor will either go forward or reverse. if it happens to start going outwards (pushing the piston out) then all you need to do is swap the probes to reverse the polarity. The motor will then draw the screw drive in and you will hear a noticeable change in the pitch. Once you hear that you know the motor has backed all the way in and you can now safely push the piston back using the normal caliper piston tool.
Here's quick video that shows what I'm trying to explain.
ruclips.net/video/D83EATLH6lI/видео.htmlsi=25BK0y1_2ZNKlbow&t=107
Option 2: Remove the EPB motor from the backside of the caliper. This is accomplished by removing the (2) T30/Hex bolts depending on the model. Once the motor is removed, you can use a torx socket to manually turn the Motor screw drive mechanism in. You will be turning it clockwise in order for it to retract. After that you can use the normal caliper piston tool to press the piston back.
Here's a quick video that demonstrates that - ruclips.net/video/I7snMZx3m_I/видео.htmlsi=gFWMiZYLffKvImOq&t=196
Hope this helps you with you Passat project, Cheers!
B7 passats do not have electronic parking brakes. So you shouldn't need a scan tool do do any brake work
@@brycehubbard2475
My b7 had an electric parking brake!
Service manual says to replace the bracket bolts as they are stretch bolts, otherwise nice job. +1 for including bolt sizes and torque values, although it seems you got the bracket bolt torque wrong? My manual says 90Nm+90 degree turn, whereas you list 89 ftlbs
Thanks for the info on the torque values, you are correct it should be (90Nm + 90 degree turn. We should have mentioned that they should be replaced. Since we decided to "reuse" them, we added blue loctite and torqued them to 89 ft. lbs, which is about 30% above the initial 90Nm value. 89 ft. lbs is already crazy tight, it would interesting to see what it's at after the 90 degree turn with new bolts.
Here are the bolts if you decide to replace them, they are only $3.99 so it makes sense-
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-disc-brake-caliper-bolt-rear-vag-n91168901
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage did the job today. Indeed a pain to get those extra 90 degrees on the bolts. Might be doable with a lift, but with minimum clearance on stands and the odd space the bolts are in it was definitely a hassle to get them out and back in
@@YourFavouriteComment Thanks for the update. They were very tight for us to remove so I can only imagine trying to "stretch" them back to the factory specs.
I'm satisfied with the 89 ft. lbs + blue threadlock on ours. Been driving for thousands of miles since the video and all is well.
Thanks again for hanging out and sharing your feedback. Cheers!
you don't have to remove the hanger to change the brake disc
@@joakimkarlstrom2136 not sure what you drive but on the 2012 Passat you can't slide out the rear disc without removing the bracket
So this is an electric handbrake model?
Thanks for the question Darren, our B7 does not have an electronic parking brake. I don't think they offered the EPB in the states as all of ours have a standard parking brake.
If you B7 has the EPB feature, you will either need VCDS to release the EPB or you will need to remove the two screws and manually turn the piston back.
Good luck on your Passat project, Cheers!
Tks sooo much
Thanks for the comments Kevin, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Passat project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Hey, what brand of gloves do you use? The gloves you're using look like they're finally holding up and won't tear after five minutes. 😂😂😂
Thanks for the question Roman. Our preferred gloves are made by MicroFlex Diamond Grip - www.amazon.com/Microflex-MF-300-M-Diamond-Textured-Fingers/dp/B002T11XJ0
We purchase them by the case, 10 boxes in each case.
If you are looking for a longer sleeve/thicker gloves then we use these - www.amazon.com/Microflex-SAFEGRIP-LATEX-GLOVES-MEDIUM/dp/B000JFN9UE
These are thicker and obviously cost more than the regular gloves.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thank you very much for the reply and for the links😎👋
@@RomanRW No worries, thanks for hanging out.
Cheers!
Take that screw out of the rotor and throw it in the garbage. That was put there in the factory to hold it in place while it went down the line.
Thanks for the comments Tim, it does help hold the rotor during the reassembly phase. It would never be a problem if guys didn't tighten the crap out of it for no reason.
Cheers!
Can we stop putting lube on the ears of brake pads. There is a reason manufacturers don't do it from the factory. All it does is collect dirt and bake dust and after a few thousand miles your pads get stuck and cause uneven brake wear and shortens your pad and rotor life. The point of replacing the clips on the bracket is to give the pad a nice surface to slide on. No lube is required
Thanks for the suggestions Bryce, appreciate the feedback. That's the way my pops showed me many, many years ago so I guess it's an old habit that won't die. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Your not suppose to use anti seize on lugs
Thanks for the comments Jesus, appreciate the feedback. We have been doing it that way for more than 40 years and never had a problem removing lug nuts/wheel studs from our cars. No wheel had ever come loose from having Anti-Seize on them.
It's simply a corrosion prevention, if you have ever tried to remove rusted on lug nuts, you'd be using it as well.
You can choose whether or not you want to use anti-seize on your project.
Cheers!
Antiseize should not be put on lugs
Thanks for the comments Daniel, we prefer to use a small amount on the threads to prevent corrosion. It also helps to remove lugs when you have a flat on the side of the road and are trying to change to a spare. Since the car tools are limited, it helps to not have any corrosion cause issues on the side of the road.
At the end of the day, everyone can decide for themselves how they would like to do things. We have been using antiseize on lugs for 40+ years and have never had a wheel fall off yet.
Cheers!
Where did you get that compression kit from
Thanks for the question Ray, we purchased it from Amazon. Here is the link - www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Compressor-Replacement/dp/B01FW3U26G
Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!