As others have said, you MUST apply a rust inhibitor before priming. The small amount of rust remaining in the pits will just initiate the rust process all over again and it will come back. Don't skip that step!
Rust is automotive cancer and requires the same treatment. Any Oncologist will tell you that if you leave any cancerous cells behind in the body, the cancer will return. You definitely did not remove all the oxidation. After sanding and grinding, use a Dremel tool, the same way that a dentist drills a cavity, to remove all the black oxidation that you can see with the naked eye. The Devil is in the details and the extra time and care to remove as much oxidation as possible will pay huge benefits. Just in case you have missed the tiny oxidation specs that may be left behind and not visible to the eye, then you treat the surface with two coats of a rust inhibitor and allow it to convert for 24 hours before proceeding. This is the chemotherapy that follows cancer surgery to kill any stray cancer cells that may remain. Now you can get dressed by applying a quality primer, paint and clear coat. I have three similar repairs that were done 8 years ago to my vehicle and the rust has never returned.
So I guess you drive a Ford Focus? Damn there is more rust than good metal on my '01 Focus haha I'm fixing it tomorrow, hopefully it will last for another year before I'll have to do it again :)
Way to put your hands in the issue, right on man. Thnx for posting this, it shows people to not be scared to DIY. Having decades of experience with body-n-paint, i might suggest one added measure if you don't mind. i realize this was intended as a quick/easy fix, and that it is, but I would spray the metal with an oxidation neutralizer; such as OSPHO or even just the good ol' Duro Extend treatment at least. The oxidation is occurring deep inside the metal and just a good sanding and paint will not stop it. Many metals absorb moisture, trapping it inside. It is possible to kill the oxidation process chemically, then this repair will last a good long time. Cheers!
It's a spray can www.amazon.co.uk/Dupli-Color-693847-Spray-Potection-Primer/dp/B00DZMVYE6/ref=sr_1_15?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472780809&sr=1-15&keywords=rust+primer+car
Eric Lee, great response! So many people with experience feel the need to completely bash the DIY'er for doing a quick hack job to make it look better. You added great feedback and information with a positive message. Nice Man!!!
Good DIY vid. I have done this several times with different used cars I've bought. In all cases my DIY repairs have lasted for 5 years or more without any sign of the rust returning (at least in those spots). My technique is quite similar to yours, but with a couple small differences. 1) I use an angle grinder w/ wire brush for course work, then a Dremel with wire brush when there's only little pits and grooves left with rust in them. This will save a ton of sanding. The metal surface should look completely shiny. Dark spots are rust and they need to go. Use bondo to fill them back in after primer. 2) Before primer, I thoroughly clean the surface with 99% isopropyl alcohol. This will remove any grease and dirt, and also help displace and evaporate any lingering moisture. Should only take a few seconds to dry. After that, it's just a question of how picky you want to be with your paint job. Hope this helps others considering doing this. It's really not that hard with a few tools, and can greatly extend the life of your car.
Great job buddy. I started this way 40 years ago and I taught myself. Made a few mistakes and fixed it. That is how I taught myself. Today I cannot keep up with all the work I have and work alone. Great job.
I liked your video but let me add to it please. First the rust in this case was not bad enough to justify cutting and adding a new piece of metal. But metal prep should be used on the rusted area before priming. Metal prep converts the rusted area back to metal where the sand paper can't reach into the pores of the rust. The only other way is to remove the rust by sand or glass beating the area but metal prep works just as good in these types of areas. Never try to speed up the drying process with a heat gun or hair drier because both primer and paint should cure from the inside out. Using the heat gun only cures the outside first instead of letting it cure from inside out. I am not knocking your video and for a fix like yours it's ok. But in my shop we do it the way I suggested yours will still last a very long time. But do use a heat gun to make sure the metal is dry before you start the priming process. Good job nice video. Thank You
For an average person who doesnt want to spend $800 for a shop type repair, you did an awesome job. Obviously this type of rust will eventually come back but doing it this way might get 2 years of not looking at that cosmetic rust.
@@austinhartman6541 I wouldn't say so. Primer is good for bare metal, but in this case it's clearly visible that there are pittings with corosion that should be treated with rust inhibitor first
OMG! How could anyone choose thumbs down for this video! I have a 2002 Mercedes S-class, 165k miles and running beautifully! However, there are rust sections developing along the bottom of the doors! I went to the auto care place and they gave me the 3 things needed. couldn't get the feathered look at all when I did it myself!!! Watched this video and realized my mistakes! My repair doesn't look bad, but I want to get the feathered smooth look. I realized I didn't sand enough or with the proper weight and other little things. This video captured EVERYTHING!! Than you so much for making this as easy and quick an explanation. Can't wait until things warm up so I can work on the areas again. Excellent!!
Thumbs down for the rather embarrassing techinique - did not remove the rust, did not convert the rust, used primer as a filler until after it was primed, utterly embarrassing "stab the button" spray technique. Extra credit for not using a sanding block and throwing the sandpaper on the ground so it can pick up grit.
@@joeldk42 only 9 unfortunately, came right back midway through winter. It was fun trying to fix it. Every 09 escape I have ever seen except 2 all have rust spots in this exact same place on the rear wheel well. I hate the design. I have gotten estimates and they all say it's a horrible design flaw. This video did help a great deal. I think rust is inevitable in a lotta instances. Especially in the full 4 seasons of Midwestern weather I live in.
My pickup truck needs some rust repair done, this is on the roof, stone chip damage. The panel shop will cost dearly so I will do the job myself using this video as a guide. Thank you and thumbs up!
The dark spots seen at 0:20 are pitting corrosion. If not dealt with it will come back rather soon pending of humidity, salt exposure etc. Sandblasting and / or chemicals will give a more long-lasting result. If these options are not available, a wire brush may remove some of the pitting corrosion. The more corrosion that is removed the longer will the repairs last.
Wow! Well that was a Helluva tour through the swamp. From Cancer to cure. Outstanding intel on how to get outta this hole and put your ride back on the road. Much appreciated. Thank You👍🏻
Thank you for this video, and I see some comments from others that had suggestions to further improve the outcome without denigrating what you did. Thumbs up from me to both you and those who provided useful additional feedback instead of trolling.
Great video only suggestion I would make is that using a rust converter before using the high filler primer would be better.That said anything looks better than rust and you did a good job.
Right. I'm concerned about those pitted areas where the rust can't be fully reached with hand sanding and that the rust may recur there. I'd prefer to see the affected area soda-blasted but that's typically beyond the realm of most DIYers. Beyond that, rust converter is a next-best alternative. Otherwise, the repair is just fine especially considering that it's a door sill of limited visibility and not an exterior surface. It serves as a nice practice project for small rust and refinishing repairs.
Never use a heatgun to dry the paint! Paint has an "open time" to let out the thinner and flow smoot; If you speed-up that process the panit is not drying the proper way and hardened!
WOW! who says this isnt professional? lol 99% of people could never tell. My jetta has rust in the same spot and im going to do the same thing. hopefully I can do as good of a job. Excellent vid.
To people who don't understand how rust works and how this started. Paint itself is a sealer, it's often used to seal metals that can rust easily. It only takes a small scratch to form direct contact between the air and the metal. After this happens, at the zone it will slowly start rusting, this is why it occurs at that zone and not all over the car, it's dependent upon the scratch zone. This is because rust needs both oxygen and water, it turns out that regular air has both oxygen and water, thus high iron content metals simply rust in mere air. It doesn't matter if there are small pieces of rust in pits that are painted over either, contrary to what some other commenters have said, rust itself doesn't just grow more rust like magic, rust will not actually progress if it's sealed. This is because metal doesn't care if a part of it is rusted, that isn't going to make the other part rusty, the only thing to make the non rusty part go rusty is if it is exposed to water and oxygen (which it won't be when you seal it with paint anyway). As far as the Eric Lee user claiming that metal physically absorbs water, this is also physically not possible and it doesn't occur (I am unsure where he got that from). This is just spatially impossible in regards to chemistry, this is because H2O is a very large molecule, the molecular gaps inside metals are tiny, they cannot physically house a H2O molecule in the space that exists. It's literally as asinine as saying diamond can absorb water, it is just not possible on a molecular level, and Eric Lee clearly isn't scientifically educated and is some kind of labourer person. This is often why the government warn people of BS on the internet, there are so many uneducated things spread around and so many impressionable and naive kids who just believe something that some random dude on a forum or comment says.
True. Just make sure the rust is completely sealed and it won’t continue. I have first hand experience. They make rust converter sprays that completely seals in rust and turns that into a surface that can be sanded and painted.
That's a great vid and thank you for taking the time to make and post it. I have a 1991 Nissan Terrano which I just love, I washed it today and noticed some very small rust pimples just beginning on the roof which I didn't know what to do with. Now I feel I can at least give it a try. Regards Chris
It looks good but as someone who’s been a professional body man for over 20 years you left out a crucial step with those pin hole rust areas. You should have at the very least use a rust inhibitor or use a handheld spot blaster to clean deep into those pits. Otherwise your paint will start bubbling after the first few times that rocker panel gets wet. Other then that you did a great job.
You should probably spray the bare metal AFTER sanding with a rust inhibitor BEFORE priming. I also think a thin coat of filler/bondo would be faster than spraying and sanding the filler/primer. Very nice job, BTW.
The paint on my Mercedes W203 is so thin that during this winter i've built up maybe 20 rust dots on my hood and a lot of big spots on other parts of the car. I definitely have my work cut out for me. Learning by doing. this video and the comments are a big help.
You should explain what you used on the grinder and what grit of sandpaper was used. I already know the best application, but more information on a video for repair helps. good job though
great, simple and easy to follow, thanks for posting. by the way, all those dislike clicks must be from auto body shop owners, their children or their side chicks
hey man, how do you get the gray paint to blend in with the rest of your car to turn into that color? to you use to cans of different paint? how to you find your base paint? thanks :D
order color matched paint online. It's not going to match perfectly so you need to blend it in as you spray it on and you can feather it out when sanding.
Most body shops don't even want to deal with rust on a routine basis in the first place. Maybe a restoration shop, sure, but not a high volume collision shop. People bitch about the price too much and they're too fussy when a "smear job / paint over" job like the one in this video bubbles back through (it will). A DIY job on your own car? Sure, but most professional shops run away from rust repairs for good reason.
If there was ever an example - more than God, the Bible, Jesus and Gas-Bag-Reactionary-Democracy - of human progress, it’s this one of human helping human in the most comprehensive sense. The video is THE slam-dunk for the typical DIY. The skills learned and the money saved. The worst nightmare of vehicle ownership: that of the unpredictable, ever possible and nothing-to-do-with-going-anywhere vehicle body scar. Then the chorus of praise and added suggestions in the COMMENTS to bring this lesson to bed as long as one owns a road vehicle. I give it a RUclips Nobel Prize.
I'd recommend a few extra steps (from personal DIY experience)... 1. After sanding the rusted part, use some kind of "rust converter". Either one that just "dissolves" rust or other that "converts rust to sandable paintable primer". Even though you used a "RustOleum", there are still pores that may let a moisture in. 2. If you sanded something down to the bare metal, you better use a "Etching Primer" first, then putty and "filling primer". 3. There is still "hole" in the paint. You used a putty... Why not to get a plastic knife and make a surface really straight?
Converter should be used before etching primer, right? And you shouldn't sand after using a converter? Can etching primer be used on top of a converted piece of metal?
Yea it’s sad but true. I have “fixed” rust like this on 2 cars before and usually a year or two later it rusts again. A coat of bondo does make it take longer to rust again but the rust still comes back.
True that. That's alot of work to fix a small barely seen rust spot. I hope the rest of that vehicle is absolutely mint to justify spending this much time on something like this.
When you have it sanded down the first time paint in some Kurust or similar to neutralise the rust left there. The repair will last a lot longer doing this.
Great vid man as doing this myself to my car.The sad part is had a body shop do it they took the cheap route bondo and repaint over rust.So like the old saying goes you want something done right do it yourself!Thanks for posting this video!
Feather edging the could have been a bit better , never prime up to tape , use a rubber spreader with the putty , apart from that not bad (35 years in body repair trade).
+julio bussone Look on your door jamb. There's always a little plaque or sticker with your car's information on it. Among that info, will be your car's exterior paint code. Look up what the code means on Google and then buy the paint from Amazon when you find out what it is. Example: My car is a 2000 Lincoln Town Car and its paint code is TS I think. That means "Silver Frost." It's a Ford color.
perfect tutorial. i already did the sanding part, but needed some tips on spackling/filling and the next steps. awesome job! actually exited about fixing more rust on the car now that i see how it can turn out! thanks man, thumbs up!
That was a great video! This will help me a ton! All I needed was some simple tutorial to get rid of some rust and repaint areas. This was just what I needed.
this video is fantastic! can you post a complete material and tool list? including the sanding wheel you used for the initial paint removal? also, where did you buy the paint that matched your car?
emphasis should be made to remove the rust before prime and finish best way to remove the rust is to sandblast when the equipment is available there is many ways to finish the job, I alway use the finishing putty after the epoxy primer application and before the application of the surfacer primer, this way, you always sand the same material and it is much easyer to make a smooth level surface.
Hey! U killed it man! Thanks so much 4 sharing! U did a stellar job! I'm not doing my car but I'm getting ready 2 tackle my horse trailer! And I wanted 2 look @ some cheap rust fixer upers lol, son2 speak! Thanks AGAIN! U rocked it! & I can say that with all certainty because my ex husband was an outstanding body repair man! Have a blessed day!
Wow! Good way, good job, good result, good video, GOOD everythiiiing. I was going to do that kind of repair on my own car when i saw your video. The best one. Thank you SO MUCH.
Frig the heat gun...perfect excuse to have a few beers guilt free...thanks for the video, it actually makes it look simple enough I could even do it....
painting with spray you start one side and end at the other one long strokes! not short spots... never spray paint the way you doing it! but overall not bad..good job!
Rattle cans loose pressure quick and should not be treated like a spray gun, if you were to do long strokes it would spit blotches. by doing small bursts the can retains pressure and stays in a fine mist. long sprays will create a horrible finish.
Soaked In Oil I live in the midwest. Believe me, I see it all the time. For an 09 to rust that fast though, is just insane. My 2010 Dodge van had rust, but nothing like this. I buy all my cars from down south now.
Tyron Zepol There IS a difference in buying a southern car. Go look for yourself. It's only half the manufacturers fault. They don't coat inside the rockers with paint at all. Cut one off and you will see. It's all just overspray from when the car was sprayed at the factory. A southern car has not been exposed to road salt, therefore they don't rust. If you don't believe me, check out craigslist for yourself. I've bought 20 year old pickups from Alabama and the only thing wrong with them is cracked dashes and faded paint. No rust bullshit. The frames are even factory black down there. Up here, they're lucky if they're not cracked in half at that age.
+***Classified*** well if you live where there they salt the roads you need to wash your car more often and power wash underneath fore sure and wax the paint, and if your vehicle dose nor have the undercoat package you should have it done or just spray rubber under coating underneath but clean and degrease before painting, and you should be good for a long time
Most driver's side doors have a sticker with car info including paint color. From there you can google the color and car model and have a choice of places to buy it.
Automotive touchup has good aerosol paints that match paint codes; think that is the paint he had. Use worker gloves or pad when sanding, otherwise your fingers will get eaten away. I had to to this on my rear fender and I sprayed rust inhibitor on the metal after sanding away as much rust as I could, and two years later, it is still holding up. This was a proper DIY for anyone that wants to get rid of rust and save money. Getting rid of as must rust as possible and prevent it from spreading is probably the most important thing for a proper fix.
Treating rust is a myth, only thing you can do it remove it completely or it will come back eventually. It’s just a question of how long you want it fixed, sometimes you’re only trying to get a few more years out of the car
@@CA11100 I disagree. There are some decent products that neutralize the oxidation, and then seal it. After that, sealing it with a good paint will lock it down. I have used them many times and the rust never came back 10-15 years later......
I don't get all the hate comments..i was skeptical at first. Then I watched the whole video. I swear from chrisfix to other diy'ers people will never be happy until you do "their" method its called you live you this looks good to me. I swear the ones complaining I promise you have hidden anger issues. Hence read most the comment section...just sad
As others have said, you MUST apply a rust inhibitor before priming. The small amount of rust remaining in the pits will just initiate the rust process all over again and it will come back. Don't skip that step!
I’m amazed how many people don’t realise the rust will just return within weeks yes MUST use a quality rust inhibitor
@@reverseuniverse2559 He sanded that sucker pretty clean...this video was seven years ago. Maybe he can give an update! :)
Rust is automotive cancer and requires the same treatment. Any Oncologist will tell you that if you leave any cancerous cells behind in the body, the cancer will return. You definitely did not remove all the oxidation. After sanding and grinding, use a Dremel tool, the same way that a dentist drills a cavity, to remove all the black oxidation that you can see with the naked eye. The Devil is in the details and the extra time and care to remove as much oxidation as possible will pay huge benefits. Just in case you have missed the tiny oxidation specs that may be left behind and not visible to the eye, then you treat the surface with two coats of a rust inhibitor and allow it to convert for 24 hours before proceeding. This is the chemotherapy that follows cancer surgery to kill any stray cancer cells that may remain. Now you can get dressed by applying a quality primer, paint and clear coat. I have three similar repairs that were done 8 years ago to my vehicle and the rust has never returned.
@@chrisgraham2904 you must be a writer
I learned this the hard way, gotta repair again after a year
I removed all the rust now my passenger door is gone.
So I guess you drive a Ford Focus? Damn there is more rust than good metal on my '01 Focus haha I'm fixing it tomorrow, hopefully it will last for another year before I'll have to do it again :)
rust Removal and Lancias dont match very well.
go to junk yard and get another door... easy and cheap.
CoreTech951 well, that car's almost 20 years old. if you don't maintain that's what happens. Unless you own a Ford Crown Victoria. Much tougher car.
😂😂
Way to put your hands in the issue, right on man. Thnx for posting this, it shows people to not be scared to DIY.
Having decades of experience with body-n-paint, i might suggest one added measure if you don't mind.
i realize this was intended as a quick/easy fix, and that it is, but I would spray the metal with an oxidation neutralizer; such as OSPHO or even just the good ol' Duro Extend treatment at least. The oxidation is occurring deep inside the metal and just a good sanding and paint will not stop it. Many metals absorb moisture, trapping it inside. It is possible to kill the oxidation process chemically, then this repair will last a good long time. Cheers!
so how would yo use it? I'm looking to do this
It's a spray can
www.amazon.co.uk/Dupli-Color-693847-Spray-Potection-Primer/dp/B00DZMVYE6/ref=sr_1_15?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472780809&sr=1-15&keywords=rust+primer+car
naval jelly work?
This is how we learn. People helping people. DIY fixing. Thanks for sharing
Eric Lee, great response! So many people with experience feel the need to completely bash the DIY'er for doing a quick hack job to make it look better. You added great feedback and information with a positive message. Nice Man!!!
Good DIY vid. I have done this several times with different used cars I've bought. In all cases my DIY repairs have lasted for 5 years or more without any sign of the rust returning (at least in those spots). My technique is quite similar to yours, but with a couple small differences.
1) I use an angle grinder w/ wire brush for course work, then a Dremel with wire brush when there's only little pits and grooves left with rust in them. This will save a ton of sanding. The metal surface should look completely shiny. Dark spots are rust and they need to go. Use bondo to fill them back in after primer.
2) Before primer, I thoroughly clean the surface with 99% isopropyl alcohol. This will remove any grease and dirt, and also help displace and evaporate any lingering moisture. Should only take a few seconds to dry.
After that, it's just a question of how picky you want to be with your paint job. Hope this helps others considering doing this. It's really not that hard with a few tools, and can greatly extend the life of your car.
Break clean also works great, just protect the areas you need to protect.
Bondo is applied before primer.
Great job buddy. I started this way 40 years ago and I taught myself. Made a few mistakes and fixed it. That is how I taught myself. Today I cannot keep up with all the work I have and work alone. Great job.
Called hire a helper
YOU ARE AN ARTIST. Some people work to live but for you this is a pleasure. Hats off to you. Not many can do or are willing to do this.
+Gail Boucher appreciate the comment! Thank you for your feedback!
I liked your video but let me add to it please. First the rust in this case was not bad enough to justify cutting and adding a new piece of metal. But metal prep should be used on the rusted area before priming. Metal prep converts the rusted area back to metal where the sand paper can't reach into the pores of the rust. The only other way is to remove the rust by sand or glass beating the area but metal prep works just as good in these types of areas. Never try to speed up the drying process with a heat gun or hair drier because both primer and paint should cure from the inside out. Using the heat gun only cures the outside first instead of letting it cure from inside out. I am not knocking your video and for a fix like yours it's ok. But in my shop we do it the way I suggested yours will still last a very long time. But do use a heat gun to make sure the metal is dry before you start the priming process. Good job nice video. Thank You
Don't forget, he should have primed over the filler before base coat.
For an average person who doesnt want to spend $800 for a shop type repair, you did an awesome job. Obviously this type of rust will eventually come back but doing it this way might get 2 years of not looking at that cosmetic rust.
Looks good, but Ive found in trying this myself you need to treat the bare metal with a rust inhibitor type paint or the rust comes back in six months
Boston 16WRX your doing it wrong then.
@@austinhartman6541 I wouldn't say so. Primer is good for bare metal, but in this case it's clearly visible that there are pittings with corosion that should be treated with rust inhibitor first
Right!
You need to use self etching primer first to stop the chemical reaction. This panel will probably start rusting again!
without either sand blasting or rust conventer for sure it will back...
@@austinhartman6541 If there is visible rust left it needs treating. Kurust etc is good for that.
OMG! How could anyone choose thumbs down for this video! I have a 2002 Mercedes S-class, 165k miles and running beautifully! However, there are rust sections developing along the bottom of the doors! I went to the auto care place and they gave me the 3 things needed. couldn't get the feathered look at all when I did it myself!!! Watched this video and realized my mistakes! My repair doesn't look bad, but I want to get the feathered smooth look. I realized I didn't sand enough or with the proper weight and other little things. This video captured EVERYTHING!! Than you so much for making this as easy and quick an explanation. Can't wait until things warm up so I can work on the areas again. Excellent!!
Mine is a 2001 S500 and Ive got tjek same problem! Both doors now. The repaint and feathering is what worries me too. Good luck
Thumbs down for the rather embarrassing techinique - did not remove the rust, did not convert the rust, used primer as a filler until after it was primed, utterly embarrassing "stab the button" spray technique. Extra credit for not using a sanding block and throwing the sandpaper on the ground so it can pick up grit.
this video is extremely helpful & well made. exactly what I needed. my truck looks beautiful again.
Thanks man seriously.
How many months did that last for?
@@joeldk42 only 9 unfortunately, came right back midway through winter. It was fun trying to fix it. Every 09 escape I have ever seen except 2 all have rust spots in this exact same place on the rear wheel well. I hate the design. I have gotten estimates and they all say it's a horrible design flaw. This video did help a great deal. I think rust is inevitable in a lotta instances. Especially in the full 4 seasons of Midwestern weather I live in.
I bought a very low mileage 97 E Class Mercedes for $350 that's needs a lot of this. I actually bought it just to do this. Thanks for the upload!
My dad removed the Rust by selling the car
Good hehe
That Logan Channel that’s good hehe
Or you can learn and make Mula 🤑.
And, viola! It will be back in 6 months. Bravo!
How to remove rust:
Step 1- Remove rust
He make hood reviews, he comments on videos, he got rust problems. He a ALLSTAR⭐️⭐️⭐️
My pickup truck needs some rust repair done, this is on the roof, stone chip damage. The panel shop will cost dearly so I will do the job myself using this video as a guide. Thank you and thumbs up!
The dark spots seen at 0:20 are pitting corrosion. If not dealt with it will come back rather soon pending of humidity, salt exposure etc. Sandblasting and / or chemicals will give a more long-lasting result. If these options are not available, a wire brush may remove some of the pitting corrosion. The more corrosion that is removed the longer will the repairs last.
Wow! Well that was a Helluva tour through the swamp. From Cancer to cure. Outstanding intel on how to get outta this hole and put your ride back on the road. Much appreciated. Thank You👍🏻
lol! when the guy was sanding down the primer, I accidentally blew at the screen to remove the dust!
+Slapper Chops 😂 that's awesome
lols
😂👌
You didn't get dust in your eye, did you?
Yuck, save that shit for red tube
Thank you for this video, and I see some comments from others that had suggestions to further improve the outcome without denigrating what you did. Thumbs up from me to both you and those who provided useful additional feedback instead of trolling.
Great video only suggestion I would make is that using a rust converter before using the high filler primer would be better.That said anything looks better than rust and you did a good job.
Right. I'm concerned about those pitted areas where the rust can't be fully reached with hand sanding and that the rust may recur there. I'd prefer to see the affected area soda-blasted but that's typically beyond the realm of most DIYers. Beyond that, rust converter is a next-best alternative. Otherwise, the repair is just fine especially considering that it's a door sill of limited visibility and not an exterior surface. It serves as a nice practice project for small rust and refinishing repairs.
Yes but it is actually a structural part of the car for side impact strength , as a unit body every part is important
I'm with DDEENY I predict a swift return of the rust.
if metal doesnt get oxygen it cant rust, so i think if there is no leak it should not rust even if some rust left
+Gunther Ultrabolt Novacrunch Agreed
Never use a heatgun to dry the paint! Paint has an "open time" to let out the thinner and flow smoot; If you speed-up that process the panit is not drying the proper way and hardened!
exactly...plus you dont apply heavier coats of paint...you apply the same coverage every pass
You tube recommendations brought me here, I dont have rust issues on my car but still the more you know
Clearly at some point you looked up car repair/rust related issues, unnecessary comment.
Top rated Hybrid tire
Yeah u do
WOW! who says this isnt professional? lol 99% of people could never tell. My jetta has rust in the same spot and im going to do the same thing. hopefully I can do as good of a job. Excellent vid.
Amaziiiiing! Now if I can do this to the trunk hatch. Gotta love the golf flaw lol
One of the best DIY repair videos I've seen!
And that's exactly how I keep my trucks looking new all the time. Love fixing things myself..
If you are like this guy, you must redo your trucks every 2 months, because that is about how long this temporary fix will last.
Oh heck yeah - Anything looks better than what I have on my old, white hippie van! Thanks for sharing, outstanding look:)
To people who don't understand how rust works and how this started. Paint itself is a sealer, it's often used to seal metals that can rust easily. It only takes a small scratch to form direct contact between the air and the metal. After this happens, at the zone it will slowly start rusting, this is why it occurs at that zone and not all over the car, it's dependent upon the scratch zone. This is because rust needs both oxygen and water, it turns out that regular air has both oxygen and water, thus high iron content metals simply rust in mere air.
It doesn't matter if there are small pieces of rust in pits that are painted over either, contrary to what some other commenters have said, rust itself doesn't just grow more rust like magic, rust will not actually progress if it's sealed. This is because metal doesn't care if a part of it is rusted, that isn't going to make the other part rusty, the only thing to make the non rusty part go rusty is if it is exposed to water and oxygen (which it won't be when you seal it with paint anyway).
As far as the Eric Lee user claiming that metal physically absorbs water, this is also physically not possible and it doesn't occur (I am unsure where he got that from). This is just spatially impossible in regards to chemistry, this is because H2O is a very large molecule, the molecular gaps inside metals are tiny, they cannot physically house a H2O molecule in the space that exists. It's literally as asinine as saying diamond can absorb water, it is just not possible on a molecular level, and Eric Lee clearly isn't scientifically educated and is some kind of labourer person. This is often why the government warn people of BS on the internet, there are so many uneducated things spread around and so many impressionable and naive kids who just believe something that some random dude on a forum or comment says.
thank you i thought the same thing with the rust. there is even paint that you can put over the rust and it prevents it from getting worse.
True. Just make sure the rust is completely sealed and it won’t continue. I have first hand experience. They make rust converter sprays that completely seals in rust and turns that into a surface that can be sanded and painted.
@@402car_kid4 Is this called Rust Inhibitor?
@@Pgan803 no rust converter.
Then why not just spray clearcoat over scratches and be done?
A good simple but nice video with an understanding video that kept me interested, thank you from KaapStaad Suid Afrika
That's a great vid and thank you for taking the time to make and post it. I have a 1991 Nissan Terrano which I just love, I washed it today and noticed some very small rust pimples just beginning on the roof which I didn't know what to do with. Now I feel I can at least give it a try. Regards Chris
Chris Barrett .ok
really nice job, and good instructional video for anyone with no previous experience to tackle this work.
Gotta say it's a great video for the DIYers.......and saves some dollars, too.....thanks for sharing your technique with us........
+tomcata1467 thanks!
I like it. Straight to the point no unnecesary b.s.
It looks good but as someone who’s been a professional body man for over 20 years you left out a crucial step with those pin hole rust areas. You should have at the very least use a rust inhibitor or use a handheld spot blaster to clean deep into those pits. Otherwise your paint will start bubbling after the first few times that rocker panel gets wet. Other then that you did a great job.
This is such a helpful video and no "talky talky"...i hate the blabbing, you just get straight to it. ty
You should probably spray the bare metal AFTER sanding with a rust inhibitor BEFORE priming. I also think a thin coat of filler/bondo would be faster than spraying and sanding the filler/primer. Very nice job, BTW.
The paint on my Mercedes W203 is so thin that during this winter i've built up maybe 20 rust dots on my hood and a lot of big spots on other parts of the car. I definitely have my work cut out for me. Learning by doing. this video and the comments are a big help.
You should explain what you used on the grinder and what grit of sandpaper was used. I already know the best application, but more information on a video for repair helps. good job though
Am I the only one who found it relaxing?
Great video by the way.
Thank you!
knowing my luck a bug would land on my fresh paint. or the wind would kick up some dust.
You never just leave paint as is, you must always sand it after its dry because the paint will not be perfectly smooth
Nicholas Hoffenpiper that would be so cool to have a bug under the clear. I will try that
Gus Ibrahim bzzzz
Nicholas Hoffenpiper knowing my luck i wouldnt have enough money to do a cheap diy rust repair
ever heard of a garage?
Rubbing compound then polish, wax won't allow the fresh clear coat to breath.
Amazing video man, thank you
great, simple and easy to follow, thanks for posting.
by the way, all those dislike clicks must be from auto body shop owners, their children or their side chicks
+healthdios 😂 best comment yet! Thank you!
hey man, how do you get the gray paint to blend in with the rest of your car to turn into that color? to you use to cans of different paint? how to you find your base paint? thanks :D
order color matched paint online. It's not going to match perfectly so you need to blend it in as you spray it on and you can feather it out when sanding.
Most body shops don't even want to deal with rust on a routine basis in the first place. Maybe a restoration shop, sure, but not a high volume collision shop. People bitch about the price too much and they're too fussy when a "smear job / paint over" job like the one in this video bubbles back through (it will). A DIY job on your own car? Sure, but most professional shops run away from rust repairs for good reason.
Soaked In Oil would you recommend a website for the car color paint?
If there was ever an example - more than God, the Bible, Jesus and Gas-Bag-Reactionary-Democracy - of human progress, it’s this one of human helping human in the most comprehensive sense. The video is THE slam-dunk for the typical DIY. The skills learned and the money saved. The worst nightmare of vehicle ownership: that of the unpredictable, ever possible and nothing-to-do-with-going-anywhere vehicle body scar. Then the chorus of praise and added suggestions in the COMMENTS to bring this lesson to bed as long as one owns a road vehicle. I give it a RUclips Nobel Prize.
I'd recommend a few extra steps (from personal DIY experience)...
1. After sanding the rusted part, use some kind of "rust converter". Either one that just "dissolves" rust or other that "converts rust to sandable paintable primer". Even though you used a "RustOleum", there are still pores that may let a moisture in.
2. If you sanded something down to the bare metal, you better use a "Etching Primer" first, then putty and "filling primer".
3. There is still "hole" in the paint. You used a putty... Why not to get a plastic knife and make a surface really straight?
Converter should be used before etching primer, right? And you shouldn't sand after using a converter? Can etching primer be used on top of a converted piece of metal?
Just take it to a professional
I wasn't even looking for this video and I liked it. Good job on the video and repair, and great service to viewers.
I think you did a great job!! Great video.
thanks keeping my Ibiza 2002 alive rust free due to other owners never knew how to take care of it
that rust will come back in under a year without chemical rust converter or sandblasting
FreedomNews mmm just use clear vinegar leave it on the rust spot have a beer and if you done with the beer can the rust is gone easy and cheap
FreedomNews soo true
Yea it’s sad but true. I have “fixed” rust like this on 2 cars before and usually a year or two later it rusts again. A coat of bondo does make it take longer to rust again but the rust still comes back.
True that. That's alot of work to fix a small barely seen rust spot. I hope the rest of that vehicle is absolutely mint to justify spending this much time on something like this.
@@ultranitro437 meh, some of us take care of our stuff. i guess we all have different tolerances for what we consider a lot of work.
Nice, looks better and a valued cost reducer to shop rates, a little elbow grease and Patience and you have the finished DIY job👍
Just bought myself a Suzuki Carry '93, this thing has a few rust spots like that. This video will come in handy!
Thanks man. I think this is the perfect route for me to go with the amount of rust on my car
Amazing,have a patch of rust in the same place on my mk2 leon, this video has given me all I need know about fixing it myself, thanks!
dude, you are very dedicated, easiest sub on YT.
+dfcvda really appreciate it my man ✌️
When you have it sanded down the first time paint in some Kurust or similar to neutralise the rust left there. The repair will last a lot longer doing this.
The results are fantastic. I've got to do the same with my 2009 Malibu. As soon as its warm out.
How to cover the rust and wait for it to bubble back.
Great vid man as doing this myself to my car.The sad part is had a body shop do it they took the cheap route bondo and repaint over rust.So like the old saying goes you want something done right do it yourself!Thanks for posting this video!
looks way better. good job taking care of an older vehicle
older? its 2009 hes just a terrible owner lol especially why is the rust by the door of all places?
+DynamicAttraction or rough climate and no garage (heat gun suggests)
777
that's a commonplace to rust on Mark 5 Volkswagens, I have a 2007 VW GTI I have the same problem.
Nice video, and thanks for not adding the gawd-awful "music" that other videos use. Great job!
Feather edging the could have been a bit better , never prime up to tape , use a rubber spreader with the putty , apart from that not bad (35 years in body repair trade).
appreciate the comment
How do you match the paint color?
+julio bussone Look on your door jamb. There's always a little plaque or sticker with your car's information on it. Among that info, will be your car's exterior paint code. Look up what the code means on Google and then buy the paint from Amazon when you find out what it is. Example: My car is a 2000 Lincoln Town Car and its paint code is TS I think. That means "Silver Frost." It's a Ford color.
Great job bro!!
perfect tutorial. i already did the sanding part, but needed some tips on spackling/filling and the next steps. awesome job! actually exited about fixing more rust on the car now that i see how it can turn out! thanks man, thumbs up!
Nice! From the posts I've picked up few good points to follow, yet your video is VERY NEAT!
not perfect but for an everyday driver definately a very good cheap fix. 5 stars bro
Five stars here, too! I'm a chick, but like to do my own work on cars, if possible. This video rocks. Thanks.
nothing is perfect my dear
That was a great video! This will help me a ton! All I needed was some simple tutorial to get rid of some rust and repaint areas. This was just what I needed.
this video is fantastic! can you post a complete material and tool list? including the sanding wheel you used for the initial paint removal? also, where did you buy the paint that matched your car?
I have factory “two tone” rust. Good job on the Jetta!
emphasis should be made to remove the rust before prime and finish
best way to remove the rust is to sandblast when the equipment is available
there is many ways to finish the job, I alway use the finishing putty after the epoxy primer application and before the application of the surfacer primer, this way, you always sand the same material and it is much easyer to make a smooth level surface.
Jacques Poirier j
Hey! U killed it man! Thanks so much 4 sharing! U did a stellar job! I'm not doing my car but I'm getting ready 2 tackle my horse trailer! And I wanted 2 look @ some cheap rust fixer upers lol, son2 speak! Thanks AGAIN! U rocked it! & I can say that with all certainty because my ex husband was an outstanding body repair man! Have a blessed day!
Great result but i would have used a rust converter to 'kill' the remaining rust before priming. Paint finish look perfect.
Wow! Good way, good job, good result, good video, GOOD everythiiiing. I was going to do that kind of repair on my own car when i saw your video. The best one. Thank you SO MUCH.
How fun to fix your own stuff 😋
berryfairy68
👍
Awesome work...... thanks for sharing this video.... I'm going to try on my truck truck.
Good job. I would additionally treat the rust spot with rust remover to completely eliminate the rust ant prevent for reoccurring.
Por15?
R. T. Which rust converter would you suggest? Por15?
@@FrankS-ff6yp WURTH rust converter
Frig the heat gun...perfect excuse to have a few beers guilt free...thanks for the video, it actually makes it look simple enough I could even do it....
painting with spray you start one side and end at the other one long strokes! not short spots...
never spray paint the way you doing it! but overall not bad..good job!
Rattle cans loose pressure quick and should not be treated like a spray gun, if you were to do long strokes it would spit blotches. by doing small bursts the can retains pressure and stays in a fine mist. long sprays will create a horrible finish.
nice job. Glad you fast forwarded thru most of it. Hope to see more videos
Great job bro that turned out amazing
Thanks! Appreciate the comment!
Damn descent finish and a step by step d.i.y instructions good pal thanks
Romano Scavo bshdjf o2,vjhiutjykrnej445
That's fucking ridiculous that an 09 already has rust like that.
+***Classified*** I live in New England. Rust like that is common
Soaked In Oil I live in the midwest. Believe me, I see it all the time. For an 09 to rust that fast though, is just insane. My 2010 Dodge van had rust, but nothing like this. I buy all my cars from down south now.
+***Classified*** there shouldn't be a difference being that they all come from the same manufacture
Tyron Zepol There IS a difference in buying a southern car. Go look for yourself. It's only half the manufacturers fault. They don't coat inside the rockers with paint at all. Cut one off and you will see. It's all just overspray from when the car was sprayed at the factory. A southern car has not been exposed to road salt, therefore they don't rust. If you don't believe me, check out craigslist for yourself. I've bought 20 year old pickups from Alabama and the only thing wrong with them is cracked dashes and faded paint. No rust bullshit. The frames are even factory black down there. Up here, they're lucky if they're not cracked in half at that age.
+***Classified*** well if you live where there they salt the roads you need to wash your car more often and power wash underneath fore sure and wax the paint, and if your vehicle dose nor have the undercoat package you should have it done or just spray rubber under coating underneath but clean and degrease before painting, and you should be good for a long time
excellent Job and informative. Thank you.
very nice DIY, thanks alot!
Thank you!
+Soaked In Oil Why wet sand it?
+Silas McCarty smooth out imperfections in clear coat....orange peel effect.
Good job! Can you tell me why you wet sand AFTER the clear application? I don't see the point to sand after the clear application. Thanks!
NIce job, thanks for showing...where did you get the paint that Matches?
+Steve Gunderson Google search automotive touch up. I ordered it from their website. Thanks for the comment!
TY
Most driver's side doors have a sticker with car info including paint color. From there you can google the color and car model and have a choice of places to buy it.
Automotive touchup has good aerosol paints that match paint codes; think that is the paint he had. Use worker gloves or pad when sanding, otherwise your fingers will get eaten away. I had to to this on my rear fender and I sprayed rust inhibitor on the metal after sanding away as much rust as I could, and two years later, it is still holding up. This was a proper DIY for anyone that wants to get rid of rust and save money. Getting rid of as must rust as possible and prevent it from spreading is probably the most important thing for a proper fix.
Thanks for the comment! You are correct, I used Automotive Touchup to color-match the paint.
Thanks for a very good demo. I just bought a 2001 Jeep TJ and have a few deep rust spots. I am going to try your techniques this weekend. Thanks.
You should have "treated" the rust first!............it WILL come back!!!!!
Treating rust is a myth, only thing you can do it remove it completely or it will come back eventually. It’s just a question of how long you want it fixed, sometimes you’re only trying to get a few more years out of the car
@@CA11100 I disagree. There are some decent products that neutralize the oxidation, and then seal it. After that, sealing it with a good paint will lock it down. I have used them many times and the rust never came back 10-15 years later......
@@ClockFixer can you please give examples of good products that neutralize oxidation
@@danielh1551 Sure, just go to my page.
@Mααrʈεn M Wanna bet?
Very VERY PROFESSIONAL & EZ. I'm doin legs on end tables, but rustisrust
I luv it! THANK YOU. Now...can u do a
Sockit2me cake?
I don't get all the hate comments..i was skeptical at first. Then I watched the whole video. I swear from chrisfix to other diy'ers people will never be happy until you do "their" method its called you live you this looks good to me. I swear the ones complaining I promise you have hidden anger issues. Hence read most the comment section...just sad
I didn't want to comment because you had 666 comments but man... great work dude.
I'll try this on my car this coming spring/ summer.
If I have to suffer one more O'Reily's ad or that tape measure app ad I'm going to snap
It's the 21st century - adblockers are a thing ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Nice finish mate. Well done
To bad it will bubble in a year or so. You didn't stop it you just covered it up but looks good
I don't know how you could have done a better job! Thank you for showing us how..
I really don't know how did i came here
Latina Lordé I was watching 9/11 documentary. Now I am here.
Latina Lordé the many realms of RUclips 😂
I’m quite comfortable in this particular “realm”, as I am OBSESSED with anything that has four wheels and an engine!
Latina Lordé me either and I regret watching the whole video.
That looks pretty good. I'm not a car guy but I plan on doing part of a door panel sometime this month on my 2005 Kia Sportage.
I don't why I'm watching this do it for a living lmao RUclips bordem
Is he doing it right?
+Mark Davison not the actual away but props to him
+Mark Davison not the actual away but props to him
+Mark Davison not how I would do it but it works
Excellent video! Thank you so much for making this.
my 67 camaro is full of rust it'll be a long job
Love 67 Camaros! Good luck!
jackson jones dont do this repair to your Classic car...
Super helpful! Thanks! What level of grit sandpaper did you use at the very beginning?