Thank you for this great Video, i bought a very rusty Union No. 04. Unions a rare in Germany. I do my best to restore it. I started cleaning and derusting with vinegar. Good to have your informations. Great Work.
Sorry if this sounds kinda weird, but I love how your browns and skull look! You look very cool and handsome when working. Thank you for sharing this! Gonna make japanning now!
Great video James. I really liked the level of restoration on this plane. Keeping it a little rustic gives it more character. I also got a great tip when you cleaned the old compound off of your strop. I have been wondering how to start over with mine.
I started nail polish remover to remove the finish off the tote and handles. It work really well! Gives a good clean surface where the tote needs to be glued back.
Thank you for this video it gave me inspiration to buy some antigue Stanley’s, Miller falls, and ward masters to restore. Ever so much appreciated for this video and the other restoration videos
I love every thing abought this video. I have watched other videos on this matter and content is wel layed out. Some time soon could you show the restoring of a Baley Stanley # 27 or 30 please. That era of planes just has more sole ( pun ) to me and they are cheeper to startout with.
I was lucky enough to find a Stanley 5 1/2 for $15 at a yard sale. This plane is a type 9 without the frog adjustment screw. Sadly, this plane has a broken handle and knob. I don’t have the early style in my parts bin so I will need to repair it. I also picked up a 4 1/2 but it was poorly braised. The braise is solid but not flat. Should I flatten the sole or should I look for another sole?
It's one of my favorite parts of my woodworking is finding tools and restoring them then getting to use them again. And picking them up for cheap as they look knackered.
That is a riffler they come in all different types of shapes and sizes and grits. I have a video talking about different types of files where I go over them as well.
Nice!! How about a giveaway contest? There’s a few of us that don’t have as many 5&1/2s! Thanks for posting this. I have a couple planes I need to restore. You’ve motivated me to try at least!
I really liked that you used this real, taditional jappaning insteda f a synthetic paint. Do you ever put a slight angle on the sides and nose of the plane as Paul Sellers does?
I generally don't round over the nose and tail of the plane. I have no problem with doing it it's just one more step that in my book doesn't need to be done. But there's a lot of people out there who would argue the other direction. Just two different schools of thought.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Great thanks for your answer. For me it is something kind of agressive which I` m a lttle bit afraid to perform... and it seems like making the sole shorter and narrower.
Have you ever used a never seize compound on plane parts? I'm thinking of the frog, tote screws specifically but perhaps the mating surface of the frog as well. Appreciate your comments on this. Really appreciate the link to japanning technique as I have a similar "project" plane.
How do you remove japanning without sandblasting? Any time I've attempted laquer thinner there's always 20% of the old japanning that sticks in the nooks and crannies and I'm worried it'll compromise the new paint job.
There really isn't a good chemical way to remove japan and completely. But the good news is it will not cause a problem if you coat over the little bits that are left. If you're going to use a spray paint then first hit it with a self-etching primer. But if you're going to hit it with your panting, there's nothing to do other than applying it.
Like so many others, I'm sure, I'd love to have it. Currently I have a block plane, a harbor freight that's somewhere around a number 4, and an antique wooden plane that's about 8 at 9 inches long. (That one's my favourite)
Would boiling the pieces of an old, rusted, Stanley hand plane for 45 minutes to an hour (or steaming it) harm the plane in any way - the Japanning, especially? This is a common way of conserving the original finish of fire arms and dealing with rust - especially blued metal. It enables the removal of surface rust without removing the bluing with the subsequent use of a carding wheel (very, very soft wire wheel). I've noticed what appears to be bluing on some of the older planes, for instance on the spring on the rear of the chip breaker, possibly some plane bolts have been blued also. Thoughts?
There shouldn't be any bluing on the plans but boiling them would not hurt. The japaning has to go up to several hundred degrees before it causes a problem
Well, in fact i dont really like to buy new Tools, exspecially woodworking tools. Im just not happy if i cant restore a tool. And i love it when my tools habe a glory history and came in my loveing hands. And that used tools are mostly cheaper is also fantastic😄
Nice. Looks very similar to one I found with corrugated sole. I think it’s a Sargent. Do you know if there was any cross pollinating between Sargent and Ohio? Mine is a great daily driver. Black not blue?
HI James, nice job. Question: where would I find a reasonably priced good quality iron for my 4 and 5 places also I have a few small jacks too that will be needing an iron or 2. thanks for sharing and keep on smiling.
For new ones I would go with Hawk Irons. But for antique I would go to a MWTCA tool meet. If that is not possible go down the list of online sellers on handtoolfinder.com
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I'm restoring some English Record planes. I grew up using them. My pet peeve is people who have used small screwdrivers on the screws and damaged them!!
Hi there! I was recommended to ask you if you had the measurements of the chip breaker from this plane. I have the same one I am trying to get working, but the blade and chip breaker my grandpa had on it were Stanley, and it seems to me that they are not exactly interchangeable. I plan on filling, and moving the height adjustment hole on the Stanley chip breaker to make it work on the Ohio 5 1/2 but am unsure of where to put the new hole. I would appreciate any help you could give me
Yes. Ohio and Stanley each had slightly different yoke hole placements. I don't have this one anymore to pull the measurements on it. Sorry. The best way to figure it out is have the yolk coming through the frog at about 90° then put the iron and chip breaker in and the tip of the iron should be ever so slightly retracted so that a little bit of forward movement on the yolk would push it out of the mouth. So you can see how far the hole needs to move up and down to get the iron to that location.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you for the tip! I have been loving your videos especially as I go through my great grandpas collection. Keep up the good work!
Hi, I just got my first hand plane and I wonder what parts of it I should lub. Should I add oil to all parts? Screws, blade, flog, etc. Thanks. I enjoy whatching your videos.
Put the Wood by Wright logo on it and auction it off, jk that is a very nice plane and I'm with you, making it looked loved and used is nice, it's not super clean and shiny so your nervous about using it and it's not so dull it's you think it wont work. Not going to lie was very surprised to see a sandblaster in your basement, I've always wanted to use one and the foundry I worked at went under before I got to use the one in the maintenance shop.
thanks man. yes. I use to use one of those. but now after the first oil soak I use home made paste wax block. I find it to last longer and protect better, but the oil rolled rag is a very English way of doing it.
Great video! How was the fuem level of the japanning cook in your kitchen? Any after effects in your oven? I've heard of ovens being ruined by bake on paints but wondered about home made japanning. Keep up the great content!!
James, I love your channel, watch you for years. Thanks for all your videos. Sir I have a craftsman 14" jack plane I bought used. When I svcrew the blade forward, it does good, but when I screw it backward it stops before it gets the blade back in completely , leaving about a 1/32" still hanging out. I am a nube to planes, i watched all your videos on planes.... any ideas?
if the rion sticks out past the chip breaker 1/8" or less and that is the problem, then the chip breaker is the wrong one. If it is more then 1/8" then the chip breaker should be moved forward.
Hi James, I've got a Keen Kutter No K7 (Stanley Made, I think), where the japanning is pretty much gone, and it's becomming a rust bucket too. As much as I'd like to do the HTR japanning, I jist don't have the time or resources right now. Spray paint in the past has been hit and miss quality. Do you know of any finish alternatives to japanning that don't take as much time and won't completely destroy the value of the plane? There's paint, but what about BLO baked on with a torch or something? My workshop is my garage, so here in the midwest they definitely get exposed to humidity.
Honestly if you wanting the japaning look the next best method is black engine enamel. Most everything else I have tried just does not look right. Just make sure to start with a self etching primer.
Love the video James. My Ohio 5 1/2 is a maroon one. Do you know how I could make a maroon japaning? All original I'll take an Ohio over a Stanley any day... thicker iron.
the problem with sand blasting the wood is it is too easy to go too far and when it does it shows the rings of the wood. but the scraping really only takes 4-5 minutes and you are done. no setup needed. The japanning is what was originally used. in this case I want ed to show it. but it is also much more durable and provides a longer lasting gloss. but int he end it is a personal choice.
Great video! thank you sir. I was just gifted a Stanley Bed Rock 605 from a neighbor of my late mother. She said it belong to either her father or grandfather. Since she is 85 I’m guessing father. I’ve only been woodworking for a few years and don’t have many planes; only an old Stanley Handyman from my father and a newer block plane. So I’m trying to decide if worth restoring or not. It’s a little rough but not terrible. Your video makes me lean toward restoring and using. Don’t have access to a sand blaster for the japanning tho. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
For a Bedrock I would not do much to it other then wipe off rust and clean with soap and water. Those are actually worth a decent amount of money. Generally considered to be the best production planes made. But in the end it is your plane and you can do whatever makes you happy. If you want to talk about it more feel free to email me some pictures and I would be glad to take a closer look. jameswright@woodbywright.com
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Hey James, I'm kind in that same spot right now, with a Bedrock 605 to restore. Mind if I send you a couple pics? Thanks man, keep up the amazing work!
Sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me.
@Azariah Joseph Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
at the bevel almost double. on the early Ohio planes they made then just like the old wooden irons. they are tapered. thicker at the bevel and thin at the top.
It puts off a lot of smell but it dissipates very quickly. Usually I'll do it in the kitchen oven and as long as I haven't done two or three hours before my wife gets home she doesn't notice it.
Great project, I n.v have learned quite a bit from watching your videos, you could always do a Christmas giveaway with the Ohio plane, thanks for sharing!!
James how would you approach a plane with still a lot of japanning left and want to remove rust and touch up japanning. Man if I used my wife's kitchen oven for that japanning baking, I wouldn't eat for a while. Lol
Nice job. I would say donate it to someone that doesn’t have a user 5 1/2 not a collector. It would be on the honor system I guess. PS I do have a good 5 1/2. I just got a type 11 #6 that needs some TLC my next project.
The front knob is a lot easier to strip if you put a bolt through the hole and then spin it in a drill press. Then you use some sand paper while it spins.
I still prefre this way as there is less dust and there is no setup time. it really only takes 2-4 minutes to scrape clean. but that is just my personal preference.
I generally do not offer services, but if there is a video I can make I might take it on. Feel free to send me an email and some pictures I can let you know more.
4:14 what kind of file is that, and where do I find them? BTW, I use Evaporust and think it has the least of that "fake patina" of all the soaks I've used. One way to mitigate that is to check it every 30 minutes or less and pull out the parts as soon as the rust is gone. Rinse and brush them and IMMEDIATELY spray regular WD40 on them. No rust, and little to no fake patina. Then you can hit it with files or whatever to get it tuned without having flash rust.... Edit: I forgot, DONT even dry the parts between rinse and wd40 hit them with a paper towel or air blast from a compressor to get most water off, then spray with wd40. Its Water Displacement try 40, and does a very good job! And make sure to wipe off excess wd40 and oil with 3 in 1 before assembly, but it works wonders!
That is a rifler. I have a nice cloection of them. I have used evaporust quite a bit in the past. I use WD-40 specialist as it is much cheaper and easier to find around here. And the two of them give almost identical results. The rust on this was from the Japanning baking. Anytime you heat up the japaning it will rust exposed metal around it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Good to know! I will definitely look into that stuff when I run out of Evaporust. Part of the reason I got the Evaporust was that I could get a 3 gallon bucket with a little basket for parts. I didn't even see the rust on yours (you couldn't use wd40 anyway since you were going to Japan it), I just wanted to let others know so they dont have to go through what I've gone through soaking, then having to re-derust it after it flash rust. I love your videos! Seeing people fix up old tools is great, and then to actually use them is even better!
thanks for the great video, the plane looks great.. 3-in-one oil contains citronella oil, which quickly oxidizes and becomes sticky. I use light machine oil, like sewing machine oil.
It's your plane, take it far as you want. I'm guessing, from all your blue Stanleys, that you're not too worried about other people's opinions anyway, though. If the next owner doesn't like it, paint can be removed.
Looks good. I'm especially impressed with the japanning. I've been eyeing handtoolrescue's recipe, too. Glad to see a second opinion on it. Did you use your kitchen oven to bake the japanning? My worry is that some kind of fumes would permeate the kitchen or leave a residue that would contaminate food. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for the video!
Yeah, that had to be a reference to HTR. The funny thing is if you've used one of those blast cabinets, especially without good light inside the cabinet, you understand why you would do that.
What? Not at least a blue lever cap? Travesty! What has our civilization slipped to? Nicely done. Gotta get my daughter to haul my ancient ass to one of the meets.
Very nice restoration! 👏💫🎉 if you don’t have a need for this beautiful restored tool, if appropriate, consider making it a give away when you reach X number of subscribers. Jim Sprague of Sprague WoodTurning does something similar choosing the winner from people who have left unique comments. His bowls are amazing 😃
After several rounds with the AI I determined that today the term _paint_ and _japanning_ to be basically the same. While westerners in the 1700s used asphaltum both the coloring and base for varnish (japanning is black varnish) and it is slightly transparent, that it is made from resins and oils. (varnish is clear while paint is pigmented). Today you can obtain *paint* to be the same as jappaning. They even have Kandy black as well as white (that means it is transparent). There is powder coating which is the same as catalyzed paint but using an exterior source of heat to melt the plastic. There is Catylized paint that uses an internal source of heat to cure, such as epoxy does. So _paint_ your plane in a durable paint and tell everyone it is japanned. If in the past something was _varnished_ it would be clear coated. today you can get _unpigmented_ paint. (which is an oxymoron). And clear coat a part. Today we say something is varnished but it doesn't' use the Var bug that ate the lac bug to produce varnish but instead is artificially manufactured.
I just started watching hand tool rescue's video on japanning. There is a credible historical recipe in the comments section that is leaded. If that is true, no way should anyone be sandblasting old japanning like in this video. Not even with a properly sealed respirator. It's not worth the risk.
Yeah normally I haven't hooked up to the dust collection but unfortunately at that time my desk collection wasn't working so it was just generating clouds.
Bravo! I love old tools and love to see others that want to restore them. Thank you for the excellent video.
Amazing work restoring the hand plane!
This is why I love this channel, there’s a ton of videos that become relevant as I am learning the craft.
Thank you for this great Video, i bought a very rusty Union No. 04. Unions a rare in Germany. I do my best to restore it. I started cleaning and derusting with vinegar. Good to have your informations. Great Work.
Sorry if this sounds kinda weird, but I love how your browns and skull look! You look very cool and handsome when working. Thank you for sharing this! Gonna make japanning now!
Nice work. Interested in pursuing the japanning. Thanks
Brilliant, im restoring a stanley 5 1/2 and record 4 1/2, your video helped a lot. Lost it when you head butted the sand blaster :)
Great video James. I really liked the level of restoration on this plane. Keeping it a little rustic gives it more character. I also got a great tip when you cleaned the old compound off of your strop. I have been wondering how to start over with mine.
I started nail polish remover to remove the finish off the tote and handles. It work really well! Gives a good clean surface where the tote needs to be glued back.
Regardless of how far you go with the restoration you’ve breathed new life into a tool that was useless. Bravo!!!!!
Fabulous job, James.
Thank you for this video it gave me inspiration to buy some antigue Stanley’s, Miller falls, and ward masters to restore. Ever so much appreciated for this video and the other restoration videos
Heads down on the sand blasting box left me laughing out loud! The HTR video on Jappaning is highly recommended!
Lol had to give the ode to HTR!
Great resto!! Really like the black japaning! Great eork.
Great job like the traditional black and making it a user not a showpiece
A lot of TLC and it has come out great. Well done James
Great video, and many thanks!
Just picked up a pre-WW2 Stanley #5 today and the japanning is pretty well shot on the ends, this is gonna help a lot :D
Another good old tool rescued great work.
thanks Steve!
Nicely done.
Really Beautifully Done James!
Looks great!
Beautiful. Great shavings!!
I love every thing abought this video. I have watched other videos on this matter and content is wel layed out.
Some time soon could you show the restoring of a Baley Stanley # 27 or 30 please. That era of planes just has more sole ( pun ) to me and they are cheeper to startout with.
I would love to restore a transitional some time. I did one around 4 years back but I have not done another in a wile.
I was lucky enough to find a Stanley 5 1/2 for $15 at a yard sale. This plane is a type 9 without the frog adjustment screw. Sadly, this plane has a broken handle and knob. I don’t have the early style in my parts bin so I will need to repair it. I also picked up a 4 1/2 but it was poorly braised. The braise is solid but not flat. Should I flatten the sole or should I look for another sole?
Great result. Be interested to see the sand blasting video. I always assumed it'd be too messy a tool for me, but your setup seems compact and tidy
if I connected a vacuum it would be even better. a good blasting cabinet is a great thing to have!
@@WoodByWrightHowTowhat size air compressor do you have to run that?
It's one of my favorite parts of my woodworking is finding tools and restoring them then getting to use them again. And picking them up for cheap as they look knackered.
When you are selecting planes to restore how concerned are you about pitting on the sides?
Not at all. It does not affect its function in the slightest even on the sole. It's not a problem.
What kind of file was that with the curve and the extended handle. You were using it to flatten the body where the frog sits...
That is a riffler they come in all different types of shapes and sizes and grits. I have a video talking about different types of files where I go over them as well.
Nice!! How about a giveaway contest? There’s a few of us that don’t have as many 5&1/2s! Thanks for posting this. I have a couple planes I need to restore. You’ve motivated me to try at least!
sweet! have fun restoring them!
Looks great 👍
I have an old Merit Tools plane that’s in similar shape. Looking forward to using what I’ve learned here to restore it.
Please address the large wooden hand planes from the 19th century. Love your videos. Many thanks.
thanks Joe. I have a few videos on those. what do you want to see in particular?
What they are used for, how to use them, setup and maintenance.
I really liked that you used this real, taditional jappaning insteda f a synthetic paint. Do you ever put a slight angle on the sides and nose of the plane as Paul Sellers does?
I generally don't round over the nose and tail of the plane. I have no problem with doing it it's just one more step that in my book doesn't need to be done. But there's a lot of people out there who would argue the other direction. Just two different schools of thought.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Great thanks for your answer. For me it is something kind of agressive which I` m a lttle bit afraid to perform... and it seems like making the sole shorter and narrower.
Have you ever used a never seize compound on plane parts? I'm thinking of the frog, tote screws specifically but perhaps the mating surface of the frog as well. Appreciate your comments on this. Really appreciate the link to japanning technique as I have a similar "project" plane.
I have not. But I have never had problems with seazing on my planes
Nice video. Have you tried any solvents to remove the jappaning. I dont have a sandblaster.
Solvents and paint removers can work but it usually takes several coats to get it off. it's very thick stuff that just doesn't want to dissolve.
How do you remove japanning without sandblasting? Any time I've attempted laquer thinner there's always 20% of the old japanning that sticks in the nooks and crannies and I'm worried it'll compromise the new paint job.
There really isn't a good chemical way to remove japan and completely. But the good news is it will not cause a problem if you coat over the little bits that are left. If you're going to use a spray paint then first hit it with a self-etching primer. But if you're going to hit it with your panting, there's nothing to do other than applying it.
Awesome restoration James, it turned out great! 😍👌🏻👍🏻👊🏻
@Wood By Wright How 2 what files do you use to restore handplanes?
Lots of different ones the ones I showed cleaning the bed are called Rifflers
Like so many others, I'm sure, I'd love to have it. Currently I have a block plane, a harbor freight that's somewhere around a number 4, and an antique wooden plane that's about 8 at 9 inches long. (That one's my favourite)
Would boiling the pieces of an old, rusted, Stanley hand plane for 45 minutes to an hour (or steaming it) harm the plane in any way - the Japanning, especially? This is a common way of conserving the original finish of fire arms and dealing with rust - especially blued metal. It enables the removal of surface rust without removing the bluing with the subsequent use of a carding wheel (very, very soft wire wheel). I've noticed what appears to be bluing on some of the older planes, for instance on the spring on the rear of the chip breaker, possibly some plane bolts have been blued also. Thoughts?
There shouldn't be any bluing on the plans but boiling them would not hurt. The japaning has to go up to several hundred degrees before it causes a problem
Well, in fact i dont really like to buy new Tools, exspecially woodworking tools. Im just not happy if i cant restore a tool. And i love it when my tools habe a glory history and came in my loveing hands.
And that used tools are mostly cheaper is also fantastic😄
Excellent!
Nice. Looks very similar to one I found with corrugated sole. I think it’s a Sargent. Do you know if there was any cross pollinating between Sargent and Ohio? Mine is a great daily driver. Black not blue?
I don't know about Sargent and Ohio, but it would not surprise me!
HI James, nice job. Question: where would I find a reasonably priced good quality iron for my 4 and 5 places also I have a few small jacks too that will be needing an iron or 2. thanks for sharing and keep on smiling.
For new ones I would go with Hawk Irons. But for antique I would go to a MWTCA tool meet. If that is not possible go down the list of online sellers on handtoolfinder.com
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks James.
Narex makes a nice set of 3 x plane screwdrivers that wont turn up the screws like a screwdriver that is half if the size of the screw!!
Yep. I have a set but they're always a little too far away lol
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I'm restoring some English Record planes. I grew up using them. My pet peeve is people who have used small screwdrivers on the screws and damaged them!!
What sandblasting cabinet do you use? And do you like it?
Mine is from harbor freight. It has a few quirks but it works fine for the price. I've done a few upgrades to it
Thank you...
Where do you get your asphaltium?
Thank you
I got it from a link on hand tool rescues video. I'll have to go look it up.
Hi there! I was recommended to ask you if you had the measurements of the chip breaker from this plane. I have the same one I am trying to get working, but the blade and chip breaker my grandpa had on it were Stanley, and it seems to me that they are not exactly interchangeable. I plan on filling, and moving the height adjustment hole on the Stanley chip breaker to make it work on the Ohio 5 1/2 but am unsure of where to put the new hole. I would appreciate any help you could give me
Yes. Ohio and Stanley each had slightly different yoke hole placements. I don't have this one anymore to pull the measurements on it. Sorry. The best way to figure it out is have the yolk coming through the frog at about 90° then put the iron and chip breaker in and the tip of the iron should be ever so slightly retracted so that a little bit of forward movement on the yolk would push it out of the mouth. So you can see how far the hole needs to move up and down to get the iron to that location.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you for the tip! I have been loving your videos especially as I go through my great grandpas collection. Keep up the good work!
Hi. Really good video. Do you still have it.
That one I was restoring for a friend.
excelente job
Hi, I just got my first hand plane and I wonder what parts of it I should lub. Should I add oil to all parts? Screws, blade, flog, etc. Thanks. I enjoy whatching your videos.
A thin coat of oil on everything. Keeps the rust away.
Put the Wood by Wright logo on it and auction it off, jk that is a very nice plane and I'm with you, making it looked loved and used is nice, it's not super clean and shiny so your nervous about using it and it's not so dull it's you think it wont work. Not going to lie was very surprised to see a sandblaster in your basement, I've always wanted to use one and the foundry I worked at went under before I got to use the one in the maintenance shop.
thanks! I actually ave 3 sand blasters. but none of them are setup well.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo wow 3, got one for hand planes, one for wrenches and one for everything else
I just use black gloss enamel paint.. but I appreciate your commitment
Lovely restoration James.
Have you seen Paul Sellars' idea of a rag stuffed in a can to oil tools? I made one and find it useful regularly.
thanks man. yes. I use to use one of those. but now after the first oil soak I use home made paste wax block. I find it to last longer and protect better, but the oil rolled rag is a very English way of doing it.
I would encourage you to have it engraved with a Celtic weave along the sides.
LOL I have thought of getting into chaseing!
Very nice
Great video! How was the fuem level of the japanning cook in your kitchen? Any after effects in your oven? I've heard of ovens being ruined by bake on paints but wondered about home made japanning. Keep up the great content!!
It gives off a good odor while you're baking it but that dissipates as soon as it's done.
James, I love your channel, watch you for years. Thanks for all your videos. Sir I have a craftsman 14" jack plane I bought used. When I svcrew the blade forward, it does good, but when I screw it backward it stops before it gets the blade back in completely , leaving about a 1/32" still hanging out. I am a nube to planes, i watched all your videos on planes.... any ideas?
if the rion sticks out past the chip breaker 1/8" or less and that is the problem, then the chip breaker is the wrong one. If it is more then 1/8" then the chip breaker should be moved forward.
Another hand tool rescue fan I see!
Oh, two seconds after I type that, you mention him. Doh.
Lol yep we've done a couple collabs together. We're actually working on another one here soon.
Hi James, I've got a Keen Kutter No K7 (Stanley Made, I think), where the japanning is pretty much gone, and it's becomming a rust bucket too. As much as I'd like to do the HTR japanning, I jist don't have the time or resources right now. Spray paint in the past has been hit and miss quality. Do you know of any finish alternatives to japanning that don't take as much time and won't completely destroy the value of the plane? There's paint, but what about BLO baked on with a torch or something? My workshop is my garage, so here in the midwest they definitely get exposed to humidity.
Honestly if you wanting the japaning look the next best method is black engine enamel. Most everything else I have tried just does not look right. Just make sure to start with a self etching primer.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you sir
Love the video James. My Ohio 5 1/2 is a maroon one. Do you know how I could make a maroon japaning? All original I'll take an Ohio over a Stanley any day... thicker iron.
got to love the thick iron. there are a lot of resipies for that, but I have never played with it!
A maroon 5 1/2? I've heard of Maroon 5.
Have you considered using the sand blaster to remove old lacquer? Also, why use japanning rather than spray paint?
the problem with sand blasting the wood is it is too easy to go too far and when it does it shows the rings of the wood. but the scraping really only takes 4-5 minutes and you are done. no setup needed. The japanning is what was originally used. in this case I want ed to show it. but it is also much more durable and provides a longer lasting gloss. but int he end it is a personal choice.
Great video! thank you sir. I was just gifted a Stanley Bed Rock 605 from a neighbor of my late mother. She said it belong to either her father or grandfather. Since she is 85 I’m guessing father. I’ve only been woodworking for a few years and don’t have many planes; only an old Stanley Handyman from my father and a newer block plane. So I’m trying to decide if worth restoring or not. It’s a little rough but not terrible. Your video makes me lean toward restoring and using. Don’t have access to a sand blaster for the japanning tho. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
For a Bedrock I would not do much to it other then wipe off rust and clean with soap and water. Those are actually worth a decent amount of money. Generally considered to be the best production planes made. But in the end it is your plane and you can do whatever makes you happy. If you want to talk about it more feel free to email me some pictures and I would be glad to take a closer look. jameswright@woodbywright.com
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Hey James, I'm kind in that same spot right now, with a Bedrock 605 to restore. Mind if I send you a couple pics? Thanks man, keep up the amazing work!
4:13 < Where did you get that file?
That is a riffler. They come in all different kinds of shapes and sizes. Commonly used to finish off carving.
If you want to bring that aged look to over polished steel try wiping it down with gun oil it will darken the metal down a bit an d age it slightly
Sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me.
@Devon Ty instablaster =)
@Azariah Joseph Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Azariah Joseph it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Devon Ty Happy to help :)
Curious how much thicker that blade was compared to a stanley
at the bevel almost double. on the early Ohio planes they made then just like the old wooden irons. they are tapered. thicker at the bevel and thin at the top.
How bad is the japanning when its in the oven? Does it give off a lot of smell?? Can i still cook in the overn afterward? Haha
It puts off a lot of smell but it dissipates very quickly. Usually I'll do it in the kitchen oven and as long as I haven't done two or three hours before my wife gets home she doesn't notice it.
Great project, I n.v have learned quite a bit from watching your videos, you could always do a Christmas giveaway with the Ohio plane, thanks for sharing!!
James how would you approach a plane with still a lot of japanning left and want to remove rust and touch up japanning.
Man if I used my wife's kitchen oven for that japanning baking, I wouldn't eat for a while. Lol
You can coat japanning over old japaning. But usually if you want an even coat you've got to clean it all off.
Nice job. I would say donate it to someone that doesn’t have a user 5 1/2 not a collector.
It would be on the honor system I guess.
PS I do have a good 5 1/2.
I just got a type 11 #6 that needs some TLC my next project.
Was that just plain WD 40 Specialist rust remover overnight? Thanks James, great restoration...
yup. just 12 hours in that does amazing work. for most planes that is all I use.
The front knob is a lot easier to strip if you put a bolt through the hole and then spin it in a drill press. Then you use some sand paper while it spins.
I still prefre this way as there is less dust and there is no setup time. it really only takes 2-4 minutes to scrape clean. but that is just my personal preference.
What’s the end value now ?
I sold it for just over 200 plus shipping.
Nice
I have a Stanley #5 from the 1890’s what do you charge to restore. I cleansed and restored it not knowing about what paint to use
I generally do not offer services, but if there is a video I can make I might take it on. Feel free to send me an email and some pictures I can let you know more.
you took it to perfect. for you!
4:14 what kind of file is that, and where do I find them?
BTW, I use Evaporust and think it has the least of that "fake patina" of all the soaks I've used. One way to mitigate that is to check it every 30 minutes or less and pull out the parts as soon as the rust is gone. Rinse and brush them and IMMEDIATELY spray regular WD40 on them.
No rust, and little to no fake patina.
Then you can hit it with files or whatever to get it tuned without having flash rust....
Edit: I forgot, DONT even dry the parts between rinse and wd40 hit them with a paper towel or air blast from a compressor to get most water off, then spray with wd40. Its Water Displacement try 40, and does a very good job! And make sure to wipe off excess wd40 and oil with 3 in 1 before assembly, but it works wonders!
That is a rifler. I have a nice cloection of them.
I have used evaporust quite a bit in the past. I use WD-40 specialist as it is much cheaper and easier to find around here. And the two of them give almost identical results. The rust on this was from the Japanning baking. Anytime you heat up the japaning it will rust exposed metal around it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Good to know! I will definitely look into that stuff when I run out of Evaporust. Part of the reason I got the Evaporust was that I could get a 3 gallon bucket with a little basket for parts.
I didn't even see the rust on yours (you couldn't use wd40 anyway since you were going to Japan it), I just wanted to let others know so they dont have to go through what I've gone through soaking, then having to re-derust it after it flash rust.
I love your videos! Seeing people fix up old tools is great, and then to actually use them is even better!
What does jappaning mean?
Japanning is the paint on old hand tools. It's not actually paint it's actually a form of lacquer but it is an incredibly durable hard black finish.
I saw thet nod to Hand tool Restoration guy at the blaster.
Lol glad someone got it.
thanks for the great video, the plane looks great.. 3-in-one oil contains citronella oil, which quickly oxidizes and becomes sticky. I use light machine oil, like sewing machine oil.
Buy an old working oven off of craigslist to bake finishes
Yep. If I had the space for it I probably would. But it really doesn't bother us too much to do it in the kitchen oven.
It's your plane, take it far as you want. I'm guessing, from all your blue Stanleys, that you're not too worried about other people's opinions anyway, though. If the next owner doesn't like it, paint can be removed.
right on!
Ha i have a stanley no.5 my uncle gave me with the same broken handle
Are you going to get your own oven after baking your plane in the house?
LOL I just do it when she is at work. don't tell Sarah!
Looks good. I'm especially impressed with the japanning. I've been eyeing handtoolrescue's recipe, too. Glad to see a second opinion on it.
Did you use your kitchen oven to bake the japanning? My worry is that some kind of fumes would permeate the kitchen or leave a residue that would contaminate food. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks for the video!
It puts out a very distinctive smell while you're baking it but it dissipates very quickly. Yes this was in our kitchen oven.
on the front nob use a wood screw and a drill press and use sand paper
that would work great, but I am not a fan of that kind of dust.
You should give it to me!! :)
Wow, I live around Boston and that plane would have went for $60 on Facebook without any restoring
ya prices on the east coast have always been a bit more then the Mid west, but they have gone sky high in the last few years.
2:48 Hmm, somewhere i've seen that before... :D
LOL glad someone caught it!
Yeah, that had to be a reference to HTR. The funny thing is if you've used one of those blast cabinets, especially without good light inside the cabinet, you understand why you would do that.
What? Not at least a blue lever cap? Travesty! What has our civilization slipped to? Nicely done. Gotta get my daughter to haul my ancient ass to one of the meets.
LOL I know. no blue this time!
My handle has been re glued and must have twisted a litle before it dried, i will have to make a new one
eather make a new one or file it down so it is smooth
Suggestion- restore a few other tools and give them away as a hand tool woodworking starter set to a lucky wood by wright 2 subscriber.
2 coats with 400 grit sand paper sanded and then with a forth coat. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Is that how you count table legs?
That's a thick blade, btw.
You could sell it to me😃
Very nice restoration! 👏💫🎉 if you don’t have a need for this beautiful restored tool, if appropriate, consider making it a give away when you reach X number of subscribers. Jim Sprague of Sprague WoodTurning does something similar choosing the winner from people who have left unique comments. His bowls are amazing 😃
I'm more than willing to take that off your hands. Haha.
I'd more than willing as well, but my plane skills are very poor, like dirt level poor
LOL thanks on first!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo it'd definitely be a step up from my handyman planes. Lol
Just send it to me!
I don’t have a 5 1/2 yet.
I’m just saying.
They’re kinda rare here. The number of metal planes I find in thrift shops or markets is negligible.
After several rounds with the AI I determined that today the term _paint_ and _japanning_ to be basically the same. While westerners in the 1700s used asphaltum both the coloring and base for varnish (japanning is black varnish) and it is slightly transparent, that it is made from resins and oils. (varnish is clear while paint is pigmented).
Today you can obtain *paint* to be the same as jappaning. They even have Kandy black as well as white (that means it is transparent). There is powder coating which is the same as catalyzed paint but using an exterior source of heat to melt the plastic. There is Catylized paint that uses an internal source of heat to cure, such as epoxy does.
So _paint_ your plane in a durable paint and tell everyone it is japanned.
If in the past something was _varnished_ it would be clear coated. today you can get _unpigmented_ paint. (which is an oxymoron). And clear coat a part.
Today we say something is varnished but it doesn't' use the Var bug that ate the lac bug to produce varnish but instead is artificially manufactured.
You work with japanning edge is not good! Necessarily should doing MORE layers and bakes duing on sideways!
Different strokes for different folks.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Differents strokes is not differents technologies!
I just started watching hand tool rescue's video on japanning. There is a credible historical recipe in the comments section that is leaded. If that is true, no way should anyone be sandblasting old japanning like in this video. Not even with a properly sealed respirator. It's not worth the risk.
Dude. Before you do a video on sandblasting you should tune up that blast cabinet. That thing is lung cancer waiting to happen.
Yeah normally I haven't hooked up to the dust collection but unfortunately at that time my desk collection wasn't working so it was just generating clouds.