0:17 Great review! Just wondering if you can use extra fine steel wool and WD40 to polish up the sides of the hand plane...i found a really nice #4 hand plane from 1930's (Stanley) and it doesnt have a lot of rust at all, just some patina..
@@AussieWoodshed I have a few actually, three smoothing planes (E.C. Emmerich brand Primus - over a century old, all wood / Stanley, Record, and Acorn smoothing and jack planes, and a giant wood jack plane). Hope to restore all of them, though most of them I do use. Also have a pair of rebating planes.
Great video. My mate gave me an old Stanley no.5 which I’m gonna do up. Your video is invaluable. Gonna go with electrolysis to remove rust as it’s worked for me before. Cheers
Good luck with your restoration. I'm sure the hand plane will look great when finished, more importantly im sure it will work great too. I will get around to trying electrolysis one of these days. Anyways glad my video was helpful for you. Thanks for the comment
Nice job! For masking off threaded holes, find a bolt a size or two smaller than the hole a couple of wraps of tape around the bolt and then into the hole. Cheers
That's a nice video, thanks! For saving the metal (or any other material indeed) I use Maskol. It's a silicon based product that, once dry, can be removed quite easily. I use it only for the not so accessible parts, of course!
Good video. I think vinegar is a great way to go as it's not too harsh (and a lot cheaper than specialised proprietary concoctions, too). I enjoy watching restoration videos and often learn new and different methods and techniques - even after 40+ years in the trade - which can't be a bad thing. Great work, keep it up!
great video and demo and soft background music. Question . Would i change the appearance of the wooden handle bar completely new If I was to sand it down to the bare wood and then re-stain it ?? Thank you again
It depends on the timber used really, generally if I am going to refinish a lighter coloured handle i will use tinted shellac for this to give an event stained colour as usually most people aim to make the handles look like rose wood used on earlier models of Stanley hand planes. The handles on this plane looked great, but I'm unsure when timber they are. I hope this helps, it's just difficult to know for sure if it will change in appearance.
@@AussieWoodshed Hi. I’m a woodworker and model maker and often use the same products for both hobbies. The fluid can be bought on Amazon, usually pink or blue in small bottles. You just paint it on and dries like a thin rubber that you just rub off after painting. Blu tac is great for holes. Thanks for the reply. Great videos. Enjoy your work. 👍🏼
I recently saved an antique Stanley 4-1/2 plane from a scrapyard. With 3 patent dates cast into the bed dated it at being made around 1910-1918. 😯 I used Evaporust for the rust removal but as you say, that stuff is quite expensive. Also recently discovered an alternative to Evaporust which uses citric acid in the formula and costs about 1/5 the price. Will be trying that out when the Evaporust runs out. It supposedly works in a very similar way and also is able to be used multiple times before having to throw it away.
You have a nice old reliable hand plane there by the sounds of it. I too have used Evaporust i keep meaning to make a video on using it. I have also seen alternatives that use citric acid as you mention here and i intend to also give it a go once my Evaporust runs out too. I believe it uses the acid (citric) and a base (neutralizing salt) creating a fairly neutral solution which acts like an acid on the rust and virtually leaves the base material untouched, and is very cheap to make.
@@AussieWoodshed yes, just add some detergent to the mix to add as a 'chelating' agent and you supposedly have a near copy of Evaporust. 20ml detergent? Some small amount. Evaporust also contains some sort of detergent which is why it feels slightly soapy and bubbly when you pour it.
Good video my friend. You showed us how to restore without a lot of power tools. I enjoyed it very much but where I come from, that knife is dule not sharp!!!! LOL Thanks
Glad you liked it. I believe when restoring hand planes, that power tools do more harm than good when used in the wrong way. However, power tools definitely have their place, especially when speed is required in a restoration. Happy Restorations
@@kieransullivan1737 Dupli color - engine enamel with ceramic, semi gloss is best, but gloss looks fine too. This is the black paint i have been using recently and works great. I used to use rust oleum primer and paint in one but i have found it hard to get and the dupli color looks better.
Nice job overall. Panicked a bit when u used sandpaper and fingers on the sole... learned from restoring car panels years ago this will leave impressions of said fingers which need to be flattened out. Always best to use a sanding block wrapped with sandpaper.
In that video i used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Semi Gloss Black - DE1635, another option Ive used in the past is if you can't get that is Rust-Oleum 340g Canyon Black Satin 2X Ultra Cover Paint+Prime. Dupli-Color is better however.
As long as its not too hot i don't see why not. I put them in the sun (so i haven't used an oven) so if its no hotter than a hot summer's day should be fine.
@@rodrigoromero-by8os First of all im doing a full restoration and want to making the plane look as new as possible, and since i am unable to restore it using the original japanning so i paint it. The painting achieves stopping rust forming where dust lands on the sole of the plane when in use as it forms a barrier over and exposed bare metal. Do you need to paint it? Well technically no. Doesn't it work fine without painting it? Yes. But since the painting is an easy step and helps prevent rust i do it anyways. Hope this helps
For a quicker process i have used Rust-Oleum 340g Canyon Black Satin shorturl.at/dhtyU , which contains paint and a primer and looks fine, however is a bit of a thicker paint. Otherwise, any other satin black paint for metal (looks more like the japanning) and most like want to use a primer undercoat first if not combined. I have been lately using Dupli-Color Engine Enamel shorturl.at/kpxK0, i have used this one with and without a primer and it lasts okay without a primer but does chip a little bit. I'm not sure where in the world your based, but these are the 2 paints i have used for Stanley Hand-planes. Rust-Oleum is probably easier to get and i think its available around the world. But as i said any satin black works well so its not too shiny. Just need to make sure it has a primer (either separate or 2 in one) to last the best and apply thin coats so you don't over fill any lettering on the plane. Lastly make sure that paint have full dried and hardened before use the plane to prevent it coming off prematurely. Hope this helps
I didn't sharpen the blade in this video as i was just covering the restoration. If you need some help with sharpening i have some dedicated videos on plane blade sharpening on the channel.
IM thinking the paint might not hold well with greasy hand touching the part about to be painted not sure what type of paint you are using but most paints don't do well with an uncleaned surface, and you can't dip it to clean after you tape it or it will run on to paint.
Thanks for the concern. I always make sure my hands are clean and i barely touch the painted surfaces after its been cleaned. Doing it this way i have not once had an issue with the paint not adhering, maybe it could cause a problem, however I've never had an issue.
There is nothing wrong with using vinegar to remove rust off tools. It wont pit and metal if used correctly and washed thoroughly after soaking. It would take weeks for metal of any substantial size to even be effected by vinegar while soaking. It would even take quite a period of time for vinegar to develop severe enough rust to pit a metal surface even when exposed to the open air. The reason behind this is vinegar is regarded as a fairly weak acid, after all we eat vinegar. Most household vinegar is about 4- 5% acidity and 95 - 96% water. At the end of the day if vinegar is used correctly and washed down thoroughly, there is next to no risk of flash rusting let along pitting the metal surfaces. However, it will remove the rust on the surface which may expose pitting caused by the rust and not the vinegar. I do use Evaporust and i like using it as it acts faster than vinegar and is reusable. But Evaporust is expensive so vinegar is definitely and safe and useful alternative. I have use vinegar to restore metal handtools for years and have not had it cause rust let along pitting on any or my tools. Thanks for you comment
Hey I wanted to tip my hat. This was an awesome video and very informative. Congrats on 3,000 subscribers, you’ll be at 4,000 in no time!
Thank you for your kind words, glad you liked it.
0:17 Great review! Just wondering if you can use extra fine steel wool and WD40 to polish up the sides of the hand plane...i found a really nice #4 hand plane from 1930's (Stanley) and it doesnt have a lot of rust at all, just some patina..
WD-40 and steel wool should be fine, it will have the added bonus of protecting the sole from future rust also
Excellent results! Thanks for the video!esults! T
@@chrisblue1515 My pleasure thanks for watching
Nice, very sensible method for my needs. Gives me courage to give it a go soon!
@@davestinyworkshop Give it a go! I'm sure you will end up with a great hand plane.
@@AussieWoodshed I have a few actually, three smoothing planes (E.C. Emmerich brand Primus - over a century old, all wood / Stanley, Record, and Acorn smoothing and jack planes, and a giant wood jack plane). Hope to restore all of them, though most of them I do use. Also have a pair of rebating planes.
@@davidamoody sounds like you have a great collection of planes.
Thanks for sharing that, well said and explained!
Thanks, glad you liked it
Wow what a great job love how this turned out
@@carolmoore3706 This hand plane definitely turned out better than i expected
Great video. My mate gave me an old Stanley no.5 which I’m gonna do up. Your video is invaluable. Gonna go with electrolysis to remove rust as it’s worked for me before. Cheers
Good luck with your restoration. I'm sure the hand plane will look great when finished, more importantly im sure it will work great too. I will get around to trying electrolysis one of these days.
Anyways glad my video was helpful for you. Thanks for the comment
Nice job! For masking off threaded holes, find a bolt a size or two smaller than the hole a couple of wraps of tape around the bolt and then into the hole. Cheers
Thanks for the tip, i will try it out next time!
That's a nice video, thanks! For saving the metal (or any other material indeed) I use Maskol. It's a silicon based product that, once dry, can be removed quite easily. I use it only for the not so accessible parts, of course!
Thanks glad you liked it. Maskol sounds like an interesting product.
Well done.
Thanks
Good video. I think vinegar is a great way to go as it's not too harsh (and a lot cheaper than specialised proprietary concoctions, too). I enjoy watching restoration videos and often learn new and different methods and techniques - even after 40+ years in the trade - which can't be a bad thing. Great work, keep it up!
Always great to keep learning and improving
Looking great!! Well done!
Thanks
Terrific video very easy to follow with some great tips. Thankyou & Well done mate!
Thanks for the comment Paul glad you liked the video
great video and demo and soft background music. Question . Would i change the appearance of the wooden handle bar completely new If I was to sand it down to the bare wood and then re-stain it ?? Thank you again
It depends on the timber used really, generally if I am going to refinish a lighter coloured handle i will use tinted shellac for this to give an event stained colour as usually most people aim to make the handles look like rose wood used on earlier models of Stanley hand planes. The handles on this plane looked great, but I'm unsure when timber they are.
I hope this helps, it's just difficult to know for sure if it will change in appearance.
@@AussieWoodshed Thank you very much. Very helpful. !!!!!!!!!
Great video! What kind of oil do you use for lubing up the bolt threads?
3 in 1 oil
I use blu tac for holes and model makers liquid masking fluid to paint on in awkward or small places.
Blu tac is a great idea, never heard of model makers liquid masking, i will have to check it out. Thanks for sharing, much appreciated
@@AussieWoodshed Hi. I’m a woodworker and model maker and often use the same products for both hobbies. The fluid can be bought on Amazon, usually pink or blue in small bottles. You just paint it on and dries like a thin rubber that you just rub off after painting. Blu tac is great for holes. Thanks for the reply. Great videos. Enjoy your work. 👍🏼
Nice video and channel!
D you know what steel the sole is Made of?
The sole of all these vintage Style planes is almost always cast iron
@@AussieWoodshed Thnx a lot!!!!
Great job!
Thankyou
Nice restoration. It looks like a solid addition to the plane rack.
Surprised some maker with a laser cutter hasn't adapted it to cut painter's tape.
Thanks. Definitely a great addition to the plane rack. Laser cut painters tape is a great idea. It would make taping up the plane so much easier.
I recently saved an antique Stanley 4-1/2 plane from a scrapyard. With 3 patent dates cast into the bed dated it at being made around 1910-1918. 😯
I used Evaporust for the rust removal but as you say, that stuff is quite expensive. Also recently discovered an alternative to Evaporust which uses citric acid in the formula and costs about 1/5 the price. Will be trying that out when the Evaporust runs out. It supposedly works in a very similar way and also is able to be used multiple times before having to throw it away.
You have a nice old reliable hand plane there by the sounds of it. I too have used Evaporust i keep meaning to make a video on using it. I have also seen alternatives that use citric acid as you mention here and i intend to also give it a go once my Evaporust runs out too. I believe it uses the acid (citric) and a base (neutralizing salt) creating a fairly neutral solution which acts like an acid on the rust and virtually leaves the base material untouched, and is very cheap to make.
@@AussieWoodshed yes, just add some detergent to the mix to add as a 'chelating' agent and you supposedly have a near copy of Evaporust. 20ml detergent? Some small amount.
Evaporust also contains some sort of detergent which is why it feels slightly soapy and bubbly when you pour it.
@@stormkhan4250 Makes sense to have some sort of detergent to break water surface tension so it can penetrate better. Not sure how much a little is.
Enjoyed your video. Thanks
Thanks, glad you liked the video
Good video my friend. You showed us how to restore without a lot of power tools. I enjoyed it very much but where I come from, that knife is dule not sharp!!!! LOL Thanks
Glad you liked it. I believe when restoring hand planes, that power tools do more harm than good when used in the wrong way.
However, power tools definitely have their place, especially when speed is required in a restoration.
Happy Restorations
Good work.
Thanks
I like how you get straight down to business in your videos. You are clearly not a wanker. What paint did you use?
@@kieransullivan1737 Dupli color - engine enamel with ceramic, semi gloss is best, but gloss looks fine too. This is the black paint i have been using recently and works great.
I used to use rust oleum primer and paint in one but i have found it hard to get and the dupli color looks better.
@@AussieWoodshed awesome, thank you
Nice job
Thanks!
Good jobby
Thanks
Nice job overall. Panicked a bit when u used sandpaper and fingers on the sole... learned from restoring car panels years ago this will leave impressions of said fingers which need to be flattened out. Always best to use a sanding block wrapped with sandpaper.
Thanks
Great stuff. Thanks for this. What oil are you using in the threads?
Just a light machine oil. Such as 3 in 1 oil.
@@AussieWoodshed thanks! I'm not familiar with metal work so that is helpful.
I picked up an old hand plane (Miller Bros) at a antique store. I am soaking it in the vinegar at this time. Thank you for the comprehensive video
My pleasure, enjoy your restoration
I usually clean parts with wash up detergent and water before using the vinegar. any oil on the parts slows the vinegar from working.
Yes, i do agree with you. Sometimes i just skip that step if it doesn't look too dirty/oily
@@AussieWoodshed yes sounds like the sensible way to go. Sometimes the rust has already been there long enough that no oiliness is even left.
hi!
What kind of paint did you use?
In that video i used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Semi Gloss Black - DE1635, another option Ive used in the past is if you can't get that is Rust-Oleum 340g Canyon Black Satin 2X Ultra Cover Paint+Prime. Dupli-Color is better however.
Thanks mate.
My pleasure
Can you put parts in a warm oven to evaporate any moisture
As long as its not too hot i don't see why not. I put them in the sun (so i haven't used an oven) so if its no hotter than a hot summer's day should be fine.
I have a question.
Why is it necessary to paint it?
thanks
@@rodrigoromero-by8os First of all im doing a full restoration and want to making the plane look as new as possible, and since i am unable to restore it using the original japanning so i paint it.
The painting achieves stopping rust forming where dust lands on the sole of the plane when in use as it forms a barrier over and exposed bare metal.
Do you need to paint it? Well technically no.
Doesn't it work fine without painting it? Yes. But since the painting is an easy step and helps prevent rust i do it anyways.
Hope this helps
@@AussieWoodshed Thank you very much. I learning a lot with the video. greetings
@@rodrigoromero-by8os Glad to hear it, if you have any others questions just ask and ill do my best to help.
Ladies nylon stockings are good polishing material.
Interesting, thanks
In case any Yanks are wondering, methylated spirits are what they call denatured alcohol in Australia Great video, thank you.
Thankyou. Methylated spirits and denatured alcohol are the same thing. I see both names here in Australia.
What kind of spray paint is best to repaint a hand plane?
For a quicker process i have used Rust-Oleum 340g Canyon Black Satin shorturl.at/dhtyU , which contains paint and a primer and looks fine, however is a bit of a thicker paint. Otherwise, any other satin black paint for metal (looks more like the japanning) and most like want to use a primer undercoat first if not combined.
I have been lately using Dupli-Color Engine Enamel shorturl.at/kpxK0, i have used this one with and without a primer and it lasts okay without a primer but does chip a little bit.
I'm not sure where in the world your based, but these are the 2 paints i have used for Stanley Hand-planes. Rust-Oleum is probably easier to get and i think its available around the world.
But as i said any satin black works well so its not too shiny. Just need to make sure it has a primer (either separate or 2 in one) to last the best and apply thin coats so you don't over fill any lettering on the plane. Lastly make sure that paint have full dried and hardened before use the plane to prevent it coming off prematurely.
Hope this helps
@@AussieWoodshed it helps immensely. Thank you very much for the response.
I'm in Canada, so both paints you suggested are available.
If you carefully put grease on the areas you don't want painted that is also a good option.
Interesting hadn't thought of that, might give it a go at some point
3 hours in the oven on 300° F in a glass pan full of vinegar and say goodbye to rust and paint
Never heard of anyone heating the vinegar for this process, i will have to give it a go. Thanks for sharing
Nice job. You didn’t sharpen the blade? Thanks
I didn't sharpen the blade in this video as i was just covering the restoration. If you need some help with sharpening i have some dedicated videos on plane blade sharpening on the channel.
Have you ever used electrolysis to remove rust?
@@charlescabral407 No i haven't, i may try it some day.
You definitely need a sharper knife or razor to cut the tape off.
No i don't, that is a razor sharp scalpel blade. They're much sharper than an off the shelf razor.
IM thinking the paint might not hold well with greasy hand touching the part about to be painted not sure what type of paint you are using but most paints don't do well with an uncleaned surface, and you can't dip it to clean after you tape it or it will run on to paint.
Thanks for the concern. I always make sure my hands are clean and i barely touch the painted surfaces after its been cleaned. Doing it this way i have not once had an issue with the paint not adhering, maybe it could cause a problem, however I've never had an issue.
Vinegar will pit the iron. Use evaporust
There is nothing wrong with using vinegar to remove rust off tools. It wont pit and metal if used correctly and washed thoroughly after soaking.
It would take weeks for metal of any substantial size to even be effected by vinegar while soaking.
It would even take quite a period of time for vinegar to develop severe enough rust to pit a metal surface even when exposed to the open air.
The reason behind this is vinegar is regarded as a fairly weak acid, after all we eat vinegar. Most household vinegar is about 4- 5% acidity and 95 - 96% water.
At the end of the day if vinegar is used correctly and washed down thoroughly, there is next to no risk of flash rusting let along pitting the metal surfaces. However, it will remove the rust on the surface which may expose pitting caused by the rust and not the vinegar.
I do use Evaporust and i like using it as it acts faster than vinegar and is reusable. But Evaporust is expensive so vinegar is definitely and safe and useful alternative. I have use vinegar to restore metal handtools for years and have not had it cause rust let along pitting on any or my tools.
Thanks for you comment
Just keep an eye. Vinegar or electrolysis.
You don’t know anything about vinegar bud