The room number is especially cool. I'm glad you left it on there. I have a Stanley No 603 with a stamp into both sides of the tote. It's a circle cut into 3 pie sections with a capital letter in each section. The leters are B, O & E. I was told it stood for "Board Of Education." I thought was super unique. On top of that, the grains are incredible. Great video as usual, James. 😊
Your videos, especially your presentation, I find cathartic….relaxing….and now in my late 60s, managing some health issues…..I enjoy the moments with you in your shop. So no…..don’t thank me….i thank YOU.
I also love the way the purpleheart seems to almost match the red stripe on the heel of the plane. It kind of reminds me of a World War II fighter plane. 😁
I appreciate you mentioning all the parts of the plane as you disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled it. I'm still learning these names, so that was very helpful!
I have an assortment of old planes (11) that I have returned to working order. Most are garage sale finds. I've never had a new plane, but I do fine with refurbished tools. Chisels, slicks, handsaws, and braces & bits too.
Loving these last few restoration videos! I find watching you work on these really makes me want to jump into my garage and keep work on my No. 5 Type 11 scrub plane conversion!!!
I'm new to woodworking, started with power tools, but wish I'd seen your stuff earlier, because I'm loving the hand work. My big worry has always been planing. Back in school woodwork I was the only kid to turn a flat piece of wood into a circle, so when I saw the prices of planes today, I couldn't gewt myself to drop the cash. Then I saw these restoration videos and found out that if there's one thing online auction sites have, it's cheap, used planes. I have a block plane, a #4, #5 and #7 coming in the post and will probably regret doing this, but if I can get one plane to work I'll be chuffed. Thanks for the show.
Focus on sharpening and setup videos. There’s a lot to learn that will help you a ton. Rex Krueger is great as well to learn from. Cheers and good luck!
Well, here's a comment for you James - Thanks. Also, thanks for giving me something to use all the insane purple heart wood I have that's not so fun to work with on larger scales, but is fun to carve, so I'll be making totes and knobs for the couple of planes I have.
Good evening, James, Just wondering if you have any restoratioin videos for metal planes that had to be filed down to get into working order? I have found a couple of hand planes that clearly never worked. They were the "cheaper" mass produced variety, but the machining was very poor and the iron never seated properly, or even extended through the mouth of the plane without using up most of the rear screw. I've had to do some filing, grinding, and some gear grit to get them working. Had to sort it out myself.....but would really like to know if you have had the same experience; and if you have a video for it? Could have saved me a lot of time and effort. Keep up the great video's.....love watching you work.
I've never had the problem where I've had a plane that the iron won't extend out of the mouth. And I can't say I've ever done much filing or grinding on a plane.
Just started refinishing my first plane last night. Got a Stanley 1204 Defiance. Working on this one, really learned the difference between a cheap amazon plane and a quality plane
Very timely. I consider winter restoration season. Here in CT it is the low 60s today. Not quite there yet. Where do you get things like levercaps, frogs…?
most of the online sellers have buckets of parts. I normally go down the list on WWW.HandToolFinder.com and one of them have it. I even have a section for people that just deal in parts.
Michael Jenks (Just Plane Fun on Facebook and RUclips) is a great resource for parts. He also has produced a series of very informative videos on (mostly) Stanleys, esp. his Type Study series. He’s reasonable and a very good guy to boot!
Hey James if I’m not mistaken, I think the type 11 should have a low profile front knob. Maybe the frog is a replacement or maybe the knob. Btw the type 11 is my favorite
That is true for the #4. the 6 and up changed a bit earlier. and even then you will find a few type 11 #4s that have the high knob as they changes were not a sudden thing. they were gradual over a year or so.
I own a Type 12 #5 that has a high knob. I can’t be 100% certain, but it really looks to be the original knob. My theory is that my #5 is a 1918 (I.e. very late model) example. In every other aspect it is a definite 11, as opposed to a 12. PS: thus is the very first vintage Stanley I bought on eBay and restored. I had no idea about “types” back then, but I’ve sought out other 11s ever since! Turns out I have pretty good taste!
Your timing couldn't be any better, James! Just bought me a pair of old Stanley planes, to do some restoring on them. Thanks for the tips and inspiration! Not sure if I will tackle the japaning, or just spray paint them black... what do you think?
Japanning is a TON of work. but it is far more durable. I have a few videos on that, but if it is going to be a user then I normally just spray paint. just make sure to hit it with a self etching primer first.
You could add a new slot for the depth adjuster in the chip breaker but if you don't need it with the thicker iron, well, don't. Hope the user has fun and pride in that respectable old chap.
Great video as always. I have a little question as I don't own any jointer and thus know little to nothing about them, at one point you said you could replace the depth adjuster with the fine one from reed tool, is it useful on a jointer ?
The fine adjustment just makes it a lot easier to dial in a very thin shaving. Usually that's not quite as necessary on a jointer as most of the time you're taking around 100th of an inch shaving but sometimes you want to take a finer one and it can be useful there. Just depends on your type of woodworking style.
I have an old plane that I'm restoring and it has no markings at all. I can tell it's older by the feel of it, but I have no idea what the age is or even what number it is. There are, as I said, no markings at all. It does, however look very similar to the one you just restored in this video. Mine is 14 inches long 2 7/16 inches wide and says Made In USA. That's all I know about it. Any advice or ideas on what it is?
Feel free to send me an email with some pictures I'd be glad to take a look. Make sure to have a picture of the lateral adjuster underneath the iron. jameswright@woodbywright.com
Just stsrt restoring a Stanley type 11 #2. But I ran into trouble i can't find a lever cap anyplace. James Do you have any links or suggestions on where to find one? I tried ebay, general Google search, and Colonial Homestead in Millersburg Ohio.
Just went to my first MWTCA meet in Carlinville two days ago and picked up a no. 7 in a little better shape than this. Looking forward to going to one of the bigger ones soon and maybe running into James!
If the blades and that other thing with the flip up thing on it if it was the same width of the inside of that plane you wouldn't be able to tilt the blade side to side
The blade for this one is a taytools replacement blade. The chip breaker I have no idea where that one came from. Just pieces pulled out of the scrap bucket.
Lord have mercy; the first time I flattened plane soles, the resource I followed online insisted you needed to flatten with 200 grit or higher. It took *hours* Looking forward to not doing *that* again.
LOL yup when it needs a lot of work I start at 36 grit. even the worse of all of them only take a few minutes. just get a belt grinder belt and cut it.
Two things. Those sites for identifying only go up to 1960. The late sixties to 20xx are not included. You can still buy Stanley planes new. Second cast iron needs to be bled. Oil, brake fluid, transmission oil,acid, etc can be in the porous cast iron. All you need to a propane torch to heat it enough for moisture to come up, wipe with paper towel, move to next area. Best to do this before sanding soles and sides. Personnaly I hate it when people oil handplane handles, it’s sticky and gummy on hands. Original glossy clear coat handles grip better. Third thing I guess. Totes and knobs should be nice and tight. You may have to grind off end of posts to do this. For tote leave out screw and adjust post till it is tight then add screw. Some handles the 7/16 hole may be bad and need a washer. The nuts should be flush with tops of handles. Basically if the stud comes out with nut the handle is loose. Handyman planes were a cheaper late fifties sixties era plane. Some were made earlier but not many of those around. Mid to late sixties up to mid eighties the planes were not japaned but enamel…depending on where it was made. Mid eighties to current powder coated. Mid seventies cheaper planes up to current aluminum instead of brass nuts. Eighties saw a wierd looking tapered steel wheel. Nineties saw introduction of two stamped steel adjuster instead of cast iron( early to sixties) blade height adjust, bronze (seventies to mid eighties). 2000+ plastic handles and adjusting knob. Stamped steel cam adjust 1890-1960. Formed tin 1960- current. Some modern Stanley cheap planes are very rough cast and chatter because the frog only clamps down in one place. These can be machined with a different angle so that front of frog touches near blade hole and won’t chatter. The chip breaker will need adjustment for this to work. That’s right the cheap (handyman)planes never went away. There was regular and premium instead. New fives for example have adjustable mouth. Carb cleaner works great for removing old paint while leaving japaning alone. For those planes where 50% or more of original finish is gone or rusted off I put on five coats of enamel and bake in oven. Seems to work good and quite durable. Note if the wings and edges are machined it never had paint. If rough there were painted. Cleaned up casting was dipped in japaning/ enamel. Cooked then machined. This is mass production. Oiling wood takes too long to dry, hence they were clear coated with varnish or some other gloss fast dry product. The screw for tote and the screw for back of frog look almost identical but one has a 28 tpi the other has a 24 tpi.
Thanks for the feedback. They're not my favorite but they are great for the channel. Subscribership has gone through the roof since I've started doing them.
Not the best restoration video as you didn’t really restore it beyond tidying it up. You could have bought the correct lever cap quite easily and salvaged the lateral adjustor from another plane. It looks like you put the pin for the yoke in backwards. The pin and the holes are tapered so it should start easily and not need to be tapped at all to start. If it goes in backwards one end of the pin will be loose and unsupported. In general I don’t think you did enough research before starting the project. I do agree with not needing to install the blade when flattening the sole though. This never made sense to me as the small amount of torque you induce by clamping the blade will be taken up by the mass of the frog. I highly doubt that the manufacturers of then and now are installing the frog and blade before surface grinding the sole flat.
There's a reason I titled the video restoring it to working order. Not restoring it. I have quite a few videos on that. I very clearly discuss why we didn't fix the lateral adjuster or replace the frog or get the appropriate lever cap. Also know this one is not a tapered pin for the yolk.
The room number is especially cool. I'm glad you left it on there. I have a Stanley No 603 with a stamp into both sides of the tote. It's a circle cut into 3 pie sections with a capital letter in each section. The leters are B, O & E. I was told it stood for "Board Of Education." I thought was super unique. On top of that, the grains are incredible. Great video as usual, James. 😊
Your videos, especially your presentation, I find cathartic….relaxing….and now in my late 60s, managing some health issues…..I enjoy the moments with you in your shop. So no…..don’t thank me….i thank YOU.
I also love the way the purpleheart seems to almost match the red stripe on the heel of the plane. It kind of reminds me of a World War II fighter plane. 😁
I use the wire wheel on my bench grinder to polish and clean the threads which gets good results.
I appreciate you mentioning all the parts of the plane as you disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled it. I'm still learning these names, so that was very helpful!
I have recently got my hands on my great grandfather’s woodworking tools looking forward to restoring them and using them
I have an assortment of old planes (11) that I have returned to working order. Most are garage sale finds. I've never had a new plane, but I do fine with refurbished tools. Chisels, slicks, handsaws, and braces & bits too.
Loving these last few restoration videos! I find watching you work on these really makes me want to jump into my garage and keep work on my No. 5 Type 11 scrub plane conversion!!!
Nice work! Thanks for this. I’m working on a $10 Stanley #3 that I picked up from an estate sale. So much pleasure in taking away the rust.
Thank you for your great tutorials!
I'm new to woodworking, started with power tools, but wish I'd seen your stuff earlier, because I'm loving the hand work. My big worry has always been planing. Back in school woodwork I was the only kid to turn a flat piece of wood into a circle, so when I saw the prices of planes today, I couldn't gewt myself to drop the cash. Then I saw these restoration videos and found out that if there's one thing online auction sites have, it's cheap, used planes. I have a block plane, a #4, #5 and #7 coming in the post and will probably regret doing this, but if I can get one plane to work I'll be chuffed. Thanks for the show.
Focus on sharpening and setup videos. There’s a lot to learn that will help you a ton. Rex Krueger is great as well to learn from. Cheers and good luck!
Well, here's a comment for you James - Thanks. Also, thanks for giving me something to use all the insane purple heart wood I have that's not so fun to work with on larger scales, but is fun to carve, so I'll be making totes and knobs for the couple of planes I have.
I love James' videos...hes just so good at keeping woodworking Plane and simple 👍
Really love that. Just for the fun of the doing is one of the best reasons ever.
Good evening, James,
Just wondering if you have any restoratioin videos for metal planes that had to be filed down to get into working order?
I have found a couple of hand planes that clearly never worked. They were the "cheaper" mass produced variety, but the machining was very poor and the iron never seated properly, or even extended through the mouth of the plane without using up most of the rear screw. I've had to do some filing, grinding, and some gear grit to get them working. Had to sort it out myself.....but would really like to know if you have had the same experience; and if you have a video for it?
Could have saved me a lot of time and effort.
Keep up the great video's.....love watching you work.
I've never had the problem where I've had a plane that the iron won't extend out of the mouth. And I can't say I've ever done much filing or grinding on a plane.
Just started refinishing my first plane last night. Got a Stanley 1204 Defiance. Working on this one, really learned the difference between a cheap amazon plane and a quality plane
Really liked this restoration and I learned something.
hi. very honest and down to earth referb.., lets get on with the woodworking.; thank you ....jack from the u.k.
Pefect! 👍. I like wooden planes more, because you can build one yourself without much effort
Great video
Great job
Thanks again James! I’ve been restoring old planes for the past couple years and using Gojo…on my hands! I never thought to use it on my tools. ❤
Very timely. I consider winter restoration season. Here in CT it is the low 60s today. Not quite there yet. Where do you get things like levercaps, frogs…?
most of the online sellers have buckets of parts. I normally go down the list on WWW.HandToolFinder.com and one of them have it. I even have a section for people that just deal in parts.
Michael Jenks (Just Plane Fun on Facebook and RUclips) is a great resource for parts. He also has produced a series of very informative videos on (mostly) Stanleys, esp. his Type Study series. He’s reasonable and a very good guy to boot!
Aha , it works then ☺️ make the work done ✅👍.
Hey James if I’m not mistaken, I think the type 11 should have a low profile front knob. Maybe the frog is a replacement or maybe the knob. Btw the type 11 is my favorite
That is true for the #4. the 6 and up changed a bit earlier. and even then you will find a few type 11 #4s that have the high knob as they changes were not a sudden thing. they were gradual over a year or so.
I own a Type 12 #5 that has a high knob. I can’t be 100% certain, but it really looks to be the original knob. My theory is that my #5 is a 1918 (I.e. very late model) example. In every other aspect it is a definite 11, as opposed to a 12.
PS: thus is the very first vintage Stanley I bought on eBay and restored. I had no idea about “types” back then, but I’ve sought out other 11s ever since! Turns out I have pretty good taste!
are the ones with braised sides worth fixing, I have found many of them
If the brazing was done well then yess. They can be great users.
Fantastic work, James! Thanks a bunch for all the tips! 😃
You should try a shinto rasp some day!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I think I have one of these, or maybe 2!!
Your timing couldn't be any better, James! Just bought me a pair of old Stanley planes, to do some restoring on them. Thanks for the tips and inspiration!
Not sure if I will tackle the japaning, or just spray paint them black... what do you think?
Paint them. Japanning seems to be quite messy and involved.
Japanning is a TON of work. but it is far more durable. I have a few videos on that, but if it is going to be a user then I normally just spray paint. just make sure to hit it with a self etching primer first.
Excellent as always, thank you
I always lap the frog in place with automotive valve lapping compound. It allows me to make minor adjustments to the frog much smoother.
You could add a new slot for the depth adjuster in the chip breaker but if you don't need it with the thicker iron, well, don't. Hope the user has fun and pride in that respectable old chap.
Is the Go Joe soap, the pumice hand cleaner? Thank you for the tutorial!
Yes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you
Great video as always. I have a little question as I don't own any jointer and thus know little to nothing about them, at one point you said you could replace the depth adjuster with the fine one from reed tool, is it useful on a jointer ?
The fine adjustment just makes it a lot easier to dial in a very thin shaving. Usually that's not quite as necessary on a jointer as most of the time you're taking around 100th of an inch shaving but sometimes you want to take a finer one and it can be useful there. Just depends on your type of woodworking style.
I have an old plane that I'm restoring and it has no markings at all. I can tell it's older by the feel of it, but I have no idea what the age is or even what number it is. There are, as I said, no markings at all. It does, however look very similar to the one you just restored in this video. Mine is 14 inches long 2 7/16 inches wide and says Made In USA. That's all I know about it. Any advice or ideas on what it is?
Feel free to send me an email with some pictures I'd be glad to take a look. Make sure to have a picture of the lateral adjuster underneath the iron. jameswright@woodbywright.com
Like from Brazil
Just stsrt restoring a Stanley type 11 #2. But I ran into trouble i can't find a lever cap anyplace. James Do you have any links or suggestions on where to find one? I tried ebay, general Google search, and Colonial Homestead in Millersburg Ohio.
You can go down the list of online sellers on Www.handtoolfinder.com most of them have a pile of parts.
Ok, I’m gonna start on my 1850’s Lyon & Smith out of Cincinnati
I was looking at a Stanley plane on ebay, nice shape except for a crack in the cheek.. Could this crack be a problem, would it affect its performance?
It depends. Does it go all the way down to the mouth. (Deal breaker) or is it just a chip off the top. (Not a problem at all)
And I painted mine black before I put it back together and it almost looks brand new
Just went to my first MWTCA meet in Carlinville two days ago and picked up a no. 7 in a little better shape than this. Looking forward to going to one of the bigger ones soon and maybe running into James!
I am sad I missed that one. Hopefully next year.
Nice tip.
Out of curiosity: how much time did this take you?
About an hour to an hour and a half.
Just helping with the algorithm.
Hurray for user planes!
Refurbishing ol planes and bringing them back into use is so much fun.
Is it just me or others also curious where is room 111, written in the plane?
usually the furthest room from the main entrance.
EIther a George Orwell reference and they got the number wrong, or this plane used to be school shop equipment.
yes. it came out of a school shop.
If the blades and that other thing with the flip up thing on it if it was the same width of the inside of that plane you wouldn't be able to tilt the blade side to side
Still looks great despite being "not back to factory."
You didn't use white oak? Who are you, and what have you done with the real James? 🤣
Did anyone else notice he was turning the depth adjuster rod the wrong way to remove it before filing the slot to get it out?
Good Eye. I cought myself on that and went the other direction, but luke only shot the first half. LOL
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I figured you had a brain moment. Great vid as always. Who made the blade and chipbreaker set that you used?
The blade for this one is a taytools replacement blade. The chip breaker I have no idea where that one came from. Just pieces pulled out of the scrap bucket.
Lord have mercy; the first time I flattened plane soles, the resource I followed online insisted you needed to flatten with 200 grit or higher. It took *hours*
Looking forward to not doing *that* again.
LOL yup when it needs a lot of work I start at 36 grit. even the worse of all of them only take a few minutes. just get a belt grinder belt and cut it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo well the upside is my plane has a very flat sole with a near mirror finish… 😬
Gday
First! 🎉
Woot Woot!
Algorithm!!!!
Two things. Those sites for identifying only go up to 1960. The late sixties to 20xx are not included. You can still buy Stanley planes new.
Second cast iron needs to be bled. Oil, brake fluid, transmission oil,acid, etc can be in the porous cast iron. All you need to a propane torch to heat it enough for moisture to come up, wipe with paper towel, move to next area. Best to do this before sanding soles and sides.
Personnaly I hate it when people oil handplane handles, it’s sticky and gummy on hands. Original glossy clear coat handles grip better.
Third thing I guess. Totes and knobs should be nice and tight. You may have to grind off end of posts to do this. For tote leave out screw and adjust post till it is tight then add screw. Some handles the 7/16 hole may be bad and need a washer. The nuts should be flush with tops of handles. Basically if the stud comes out with nut the handle is loose.
Handyman planes were a cheaper late fifties sixties era plane. Some were made earlier but not many of those around. Mid to late sixties up to mid eighties the planes were not japaned but enamel…depending on where it was made. Mid eighties to current powder coated. Mid seventies cheaper planes up to current aluminum instead of brass nuts. Eighties saw a wierd looking tapered steel wheel. Nineties saw introduction of two stamped steel adjuster instead of cast iron( early to sixties) blade height adjust, bronze (seventies to mid eighties). 2000+ plastic handles and adjusting knob.
Stamped steel cam adjust 1890-1960. Formed tin 1960- current.
Some modern Stanley cheap planes are very rough cast and chatter because the frog only clamps down in one place. These can be machined with a different angle so that front of frog touches near blade hole and won’t chatter. The chip breaker will need adjustment for this to work. That’s right the cheap (handyman)planes never went away. There was regular and premium instead. New fives for example have adjustable mouth.
Carb cleaner works great for removing old paint while leaving japaning alone.
For those planes where 50% or more of original finish is gone or rusted off I put on five coats of enamel and bake in oven. Seems to work good and quite durable. Note if the wings and edges are machined it never had paint. If rough there were painted. Cleaned up casting was dipped in japaning/ enamel. Cooked then machined. This is mass production. Oiling wood takes too long to dry, hence they were clear coated with varnish or some other gloss fast dry product.
The screw for tote and the screw for back of frog look almost identical but one has a 28 tpi the other has a 24 tpi.
Filmato
Comment
Please stop doing the short videos.
Thanks for the feedback. They're not my favorite but they are great for the channel. Subscribership has gone through the roof since I've started doing them.
Not the best restoration video as you didn’t really restore it beyond tidying it up. You could have bought the correct lever cap quite easily and salvaged the lateral adjustor from another plane.
It looks like you put the pin for the yoke in backwards. The pin and the holes are tapered so it should start easily and not need to be tapped at all to start. If it goes in backwards one end of the pin will be loose and unsupported.
In general I don’t think you did enough research before starting the project. I do agree with not needing to install the blade when flattening the sole though. This never made sense to me as the small amount of torque you induce by clamping the blade will be taken up by the mass of the frog. I highly doubt that the manufacturers of then and now are installing the frog and blade before surface grinding the sole flat.
There's a reason I titled the video restoring it to working order. Not restoring it. I have quite a few videos on that. I very clearly discuss why we didn't fix the lateral adjuster or replace the frog or get the appropriate lever cap. Also know this one is not a tapered pin for the yolk.
Fair enough!