Thanks for the video. I'm new to 3d printing, and this thing not being squared and true drives me nuts. I'm going to buy another feeler guage and use it to make my shims.
I don't think the corners are critical. What's important is that the z is square and the y-carriage is perpendicular with the plane of the two z beams.
Hi Dave! I can appreciate that thought. Normally I make sure that everything is square now as I have seen the differences in the assembly ease and less adjustments needed for the build. As odd as it sounds, some kits are horrible and the twists when assembling really throws off the paralleness of the X axis when connected to the Z's if the Z's are twisted. I just did a CNC 3018 build and by squaring everything in the beginning the build was a snap and its actually becoming quite the little CNC beast. Call me a square ... lol but even my big vertical mill is sitting at 0.0005" level on the X and 0.0001 on the Y. The guys go rounds on the machining sites about this squaring debate but I just chose to do it anyways. I will be putting up better videos soon. This was a while back and I am now playing catch-up as I have about 5 printers to build plus the major amount of CNC mods I have done on the 3018. Please chime in anytime. I need to explain things better but its late ... I have found so many new ways to tweak and work around problems that I have not seen mentioned. I am also preparing to install a ARMS powered board on the wife's Ender 3 which will be a smooth BL Touch beast with smoothie chips. It will also have a nice touch screen and built in SD card reader all for less than the newest Creality board updates. Cheers and thank you for chiming in! Happy New Year!
Just what the doctored ordered as a machinist it was the first defect I noticed. Out of square. So that's why I looked on you tube to see if others had the same issue. Thanks
I am sure you will build better than me as I don't have access to perfect squaring of the ends. Even the slightest extrusion bend makes a HUGE difference in the print layer precision. This is why some machines are $200 and another $2,000. Well at least I hope that is why. I would love to have a more detailed video on machining the ends but for now I feel that most would not be able to access that and at the same time they want to build it now. So home remedies come into play. I am currently doing a new shim type from aluminum cans and a hole punch which works well. This was excellent for my solid bed modification. Are you building a CR10 or Ender? Thanks for watching and they will get much better.
@@3dmojo275 That was a quick reply! I am using a CR10 my main frame was not perfect but I am not going to play with it. My X axis was out a lot I squared it and am waiting for a 2nd Z axis kit from ali express. I have too much to do to seek perfection. Im just going after good enough for now. You are doing a super job Thanks for the video
@@steveu235 Hey Steve, I have been working lately and I missed this message. I am sure you got your dual Z kit but keep this in mind.... sometimes synchronizing the two Nema 17 motors is a bear ... this is why a lot of guys take that kit you got, use the metal Z plate to Z rod for the other side and do a large belt with two pulleys on top to run from one Z motor. Just my 2¢ worth
Dude, please. I really like your videos, but the eating sound is horrible. Right now I have watched 2 minutes of the video and am fighting with myself, whether i can continue waching with this sounds :( (I will probably watch it, the content is very good :D )
Not the normal thing ... but for what its worth I have a serious new series being made right now. It is deep deep deep in details and fixes that are missed. No more eating I promise. hahaha ... working on separate audio feeds as well as this was a beginning step to see if others even cared. Thank you for the input. I really appreciate that.
@@Proty239 This is a beta video... tell me what you think please. More to come and this is for a select few to see. ruclips.net/video/PuipsiWJF1c/видео.html
Terrence, I was not getting the proper emails and I apologize about that and I will get the info for you very soon. They are very, very accurate. I can't believe how many squares are not square. Hang in there.... I need to look at my orders and see which models I bought. Thank you for asking! Happy New Year
@@3dmojo275 any chance you could find what squares you used here, or what squares you use nowadays? I have an Ender 3 V2 that's driving me nuts, and I want to make sure not to make things worse by using tools that are shoddy haha
Believe it or not ... I use regular and heavy duty tin foil and now I cut 20mm x 20mm squares from soda cans. I like the Arizona tea cans as I can get a bunch out of them. Then I punch a hole in the center with a hole punch (simple office supply type) and now I have three levels of shim materials. It works sooooo well. Thank you for asking and have a great and save build!
@@roadstar499 Now as much as I like to recycle and use foils and cans ... I should be ordering some shim material soon. Its hardened steel and comes in a roll 6" x 100" for less than $10. I am going to get some 0.002", 0.005", 0.010". There is a sample box for $22 with 4' of each .001", .002", .003" and .005" but I hope to get there faster with my original choice and if I need some .001 I can always use aluminum foil. Thanks for the reply!
Thanks the new stuff is tripod mounted and I have a huge series that has to be edited down. Also picked up 3 different other printers and ordering Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro soon.
Well ... I kinda went overboard. I got too deep into the modifications. Preparing a dual Z single motor for more accuracy, made wonderful easy adjust tension cables for the Z accuracy, my bed is solid mounted, the X axis is exact with the bed in parallel terms,I am upgrading to a Volcano hot end, running a EZABL auto level, put a Raspberry Pi 3B+ with EZPI (Octoprint / Marlin), mounted the base to a thick MDF type of board that is covered with formica and I need to print a camera mount for the Logitech camera (I have a mount for the Hero 5 but I don't want to waste that camera there). I just ordered a EVO drone to do circles around during the build ... kidding but I did order the drone today. As soon as I can get through with this work season (photographer and video) I am building a dedicated studio with lighting. I have the Anet A8 to assemble, (basically Prussa clone), FLSUN similar but with extrusions and direct drive for filament, I picked up a Monoprice Select V2 (which is really awesome) and I stumbled upon a tiny tiny cube style called a M3D Micro. Also I can't wait to build a huge Delta Kossel style (I got a TriGorilla board with the best chips for 256 step motor drivers and so on). Its going to be a awesome year!!! Also, building right now a Water Cooled Volcano with a liquid pump that goes to a radiator with a 80mm digital display fan that tells you if its hot or cool and the C temperature in the spinning fan blades! Yep ... I have gone overboard and no time to play yet. Thanks for replying and I appreciate every thumbs up you can give me! Spread the word its going to be better soon
I almost forgot, I got a sample of the flattest glass possible and mine is THICK! No warping of the glass what so ever!!! more to come later... what printer are you using if you don't mind my asking and I am off to sleep now... cheers ... oh I almost forgot, I found a guy in England who is making leveling control boards for cheap and they have non soldered chips that can be replaced if you fry one or it goes bad. I love it! Also working with a guy in California who has a modular hot end. You can build it any way you want up to water cooled. He has printing speeds of ... are you ready... 300mm per second. I have seen it and it is mind blowing! You have never seen anything like this. Even the average travel speed is only 120mm.... wow
just like to say thank you for this video it help to sort out my CR-10 & now my is base & uprights square now can upgrade it.
Thanks for the video. I'm new to 3d printing, and this thing not being squared and true drives me nuts. I'm going to buy another feeler guage and use it to make my shims.
I don't think the corners are critical. What's important is that the z is square and the y-carriage is perpendicular with the plane of the two z beams.
Hi Dave! I can appreciate that thought. Normally I make sure that everything is square now as I have seen the differences in the assembly ease and less adjustments needed for the build. As odd as it sounds, some kits are horrible and the twists when assembling really throws off the paralleness of the X axis when connected to the Z's if the Z's are twisted. I just did a CNC 3018 build and by squaring everything in the beginning the build was a snap and its actually becoming quite the little CNC beast. Call me a square ... lol but even my big vertical mill is sitting at 0.0005" level on the X and 0.0001 on the Y. The guys go rounds on the machining sites about this squaring debate but I just chose to do it anyways. I will be putting up better videos soon. This was a while back and I am now playing catch-up as I have about 5 printers to build plus the major amount of CNC mods I have done on the 3018. Please chime in anytime. I need to explain things better but its late ... I have found so many new ways to tweak and work around problems that I have not seen mentioned. I am also preparing to install a ARMS powered board on the wife's Ender 3 which will be a smooth BL Touch beast with smoothie chips. It will also have a nice touch screen and built in SD card reader all for less than the newest Creality board updates. Cheers and thank you for chiming in! Happy New Year!
Just what the doctored ordered as a machinist it was the first defect I noticed. Out of square. So that's why I looked on you tube to see if others had the same issue. Thanks
I am sure you will build better than me as I don't have access to perfect squaring of the ends. Even the slightest extrusion bend makes a HUGE difference in the print layer precision. This is why some machines are $200 and another $2,000. Well at least I hope that is why. I would love to have a more detailed video on machining the ends but for now I feel that most would not be able to access that and at the same time they want to build it now. So home remedies come into play. I am currently doing a new shim type from aluminum cans and a hole punch which works well. This was excellent for my solid bed modification. Are you building a CR10 or Ender? Thanks for watching and they will get much better.
@@3dmojo275 That was a quick reply! I am using a CR10 my main frame was not perfect but I am not going to play with it. My X axis was out a lot I squared it and am waiting for a 2nd Z axis kit from ali express. I have too much to do to seek perfection. Im just going after good enough for now. You are doing a super job Thanks for the video
@@steveu235 Hey Steve, I have been working lately and I missed this message. I am sure you got your dual Z kit but keep this in mind.... sometimes synchronizing the two Nema 17 motors is a bear ... this is why a lot of guys take that kit you got, use the metal Z plate to Z rod for the other side and do a large belt with two pulleys on top to run from one Z motor. Just my 2¢ worth
Wanted to watch this so bad, stop crunching candy with a head mounted camera please!!
Dude, please. I really like your videos, but the eating sound is horrible. Right now I have watched 2 minutes of the video and am fighting with myself, whether i can continue waching with this sounds :( (I will probably watch it, the content is very good :D )
Not the normal thing ... but for what its worth I have a serious new series being made right now. It is deep deep deep in details and fixes that are missed. No more eating I promise. hahaha ... working on separate audio feeds as well as this was a beginning step to see if others even cared. Thank you for the input. I really appreciate that.
@@3dmojo275 great! i am really looking forward to it! :)
@@Proty239 This is a beta video... tell me what you think please. More to come and this is for a select few to see. ruclips.net/video/PuipsiWJF1c/видео.html
what are the sizes and type of square/ruller you were using? looked on amazon and could not find one beefy like that.
Terrence, I was not getting the proper emails and I apologize about that and I will get the info for you very soon. They are very, very accurate. I can't believe how many squares are not square. Hang in there.... I need to look at my orders and see which models I bought. Thank you for asking! Happy New Year
@@3dmojo275 any chance you could find what squares you used here, or what squares you use nowadays? I have an Ender 3 V2 that's driving me nuts, and I want to make sure not to make things worse by using tools that are shoddy haha
where do you get those type of shims...? thanks
Believe it or not ... I use regular and heavy duty tin foil and now I cut 20mm x 20mm squares from soda cans. I like the Arizona tea cans as I can get a bunch out of them. Then I punch a hole in the center with a hole punch (simple office supply type) and now I have three levels of shim materials. It works sooooo well. Thank you for asking and have a great and save build!
@@3dmojo275 yes .. i have cut up soda cans and made and fixed things before...there are materials all around us waiting to be repurposed...thax
@@roadstar499 Now as much as I like to recycle and use foils and cans ... I should be ordering some shim material soon. Its hardened steel and comes in a roll 6" x 100" for less than $10. I am going to get some 0.002", 0.005", 0.010". There is a sample box for $22 with 4' of each .001", .002", .003" and .005" but I hope to get there faster with my original choice and if I need some .001 I can always use aluminum foil. Thanks for the reply!
Most of these are winded and long videos as they are about technical adjustments so you have been warned! Not funny or exciting just adjusting stuff
Another good video.Get the camera thing worked out and you have some really good content.
Thanks the new stuff is tripod mounted and I have a huge series that has to be edited down. Also picked up 3 different other printers and ordering Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro soon.
@@3dmojo275 I can't wait to watch all the upgrades to the printer and then seeing how it prints.
Well ... I kinda went overboard. I got too deep into the modifications. Preparing a dual Z single motor for more accuracy, made wonderful easy adjust tension cables for the Z accuracy, my bed is solid mounted, the X axis is exact with the bed in parallel terms,I am upgrading to a Volcano hot end, running a EZABL auto level, put a Raspberry Pi 3B+ with EZPI (Octoprint / Marlin), mounted the base to a thick MDF type of board that is covered with formica and I need to print a camera mount for the Logitech camera (I have a mount for the Hero 5 but I don't want to waste that camera there). I just ordered a EVO drone to do circles around during the build ... kidding but I did order the drone today. As soon as I can get through with this work season (photographer and video) I am building a dedicated studio with lighting. I have the Anet A8 to assemble, (basically Prussa clone), FLSUN similar but with extrusions and direct drive for filament, I picked up a Monoprice Select V2 (which is really awesome) and I stumbled upon a tiny tiny cube style called a M3D Micro. Also I can't wait to build a huge Delta Kossel style (I got a TriGorilla board with the best chips for 256 step motor drivers and so on). Its going to be a awesome year!!! Also, building right now a Water Cooled Volcano with a liquid pump that goes to a radiator with a 80mm digital display fan that tells you if its hot or cool and the C temperature in the spinning fan blades! Yep ... I have gone overboard and no time to play yet. Thanks for replying and I appreciate every thumbs up you can give me! Spread the word its going to be better soon
I almost forgot, I got a sample of the flattest glass possible and mine is THICK! No warping of the glass what so ever!!! more to come later... what printer are you using if you don't mind my asking and I am off to sleep now... cheers ... oh I almost forgot, I found a guy in England who is making leveling control boards for cheap and they have non soldered chips that can be replaced if you fry one or it goes bad. I love it! Also working with a guy in California who has a modular hot end. You can build it any way you want up to water cooled. He has printing speeds of ... are you ready... 300mm per second. I have seen it and it is mind blowing! You have never seen anything like this. Even the average travel speed is only 120mm.... wow