12:42 - what purpose does the spacer does when installed between the rail and stepper? Is it possible to explain why the sliver pulleys are better? Thanks. 26:17 - Can you explain more about this why the shim was needed?
Thinking your working on a CR-10, just an FYI for anyone that watches you will have issues with putting the stepper motor dampeners on the ender3/or 3pro. The bed adjustment wheel will crash into your stepper motor. Only option is to find a smaller knob to avoid this instance. Great video & Thanks!
Great advice ... I will see if I can put that in the description of the video that mentions that. I want a Ender 3 just to make a special quality building video but that will be a little down the road. Check in to the E3HD EZABL bed leveling sensor. You would need to flash your Melzi board to their modified Marlin but you gain a lot of good stuff. Then either print or just buy their aluminum tube supported solid mounts for under the heat bed. I plan on doing a video on this but its a big video covering a lot of stuff. In the end you get a more accurate and repeatable nozzle leveling that takes into consideration any variables in your print bed. No more knobs to adjust. I am amazed at how long that can take if your trying to be accurate. Thanks for any and all advice!
Taz, I just found out something today that freaked me out about the printers setup ... my frame came preassembled from Creality ... it was 1 degree tilting forward. I just did the math and found out that at 14" from bed to hotend that creates a 8mm lean from bottom to top ... I am getting ready to make an alert video about this because even 1/2 a degree at 14" would create a 4mm vertical forward creep. WOW
@@3dmojo275 Yes, highly recommend that you check everything when they arrive, my whole setup was loose including the bed which had a slight bind due to one side being tighter than the other. Folks need to realize that even with the best quality control you still need to check every bolt, make sure the frame comes out square and all your connections are properly tightened. These aren't plug n play and you have to be a little more informed cuz these are NOT inkjet printers lol. I also check all my electrical because they don't have the temperature run on enabled in the firmware which can't be flashed via USB (www.th3dstudio.com/product/arduino-uno-bootloader-flashing-kit/) need this to get the ability to flash
By the way when I get my Ender 3 in a couple of weeks or less I will make a video on the cutting of the build plate support to handle the motor vibration mount! New series coming up shortly and more precise and to the point. Thanks again for watching
Sgt Taz I found a new way to help with the Y motor vibration that may work for you. I found some cork NEMA17 mounts that are around 1/8" thick. I will post something sometime but hey its better than motor to direct metal and it does not take a lot of space. Also, putting a dampener like I did in the videos on the Bowden motor is NOT A GOOD IDEA
Would you recommend using a smooth bearing over the toothed bearing for the idler pulleys in your video? I would think the only place you want the toothed gear is on the stepper motor.
Yes most people would use a smooth idler wheel and tooth anywhere you need the belt to drive something. I am making a dual Z setup and the adjuster will use three pulleys. One will be geared and the other will be smooth. I am doing that because the geared one will pull tension on the belt and it works well like that whereas the idler ones will only see the back of the belt. I hope that helps.
@@3dmojo275 Thanks for getting back to me. Although I'm fairly mechanically inclined my background is in EE. Being retired I'm always looking for a new somewhat challenging hobby. 3D printing has me interested. After watching hours and hours of youtube videos on the subject, I ordered an Ender 3 Pro (it should be here in about a week). I really appreciate the detail in your videos and hope to apply the same concepts to my printer. A dual Z setup is way out of my league and I'm looking forward to seeing your design.
I need to get a Ender 3 and do a over the top precision build like most of my videos but I just picked up a new in box FLSUN printer and a used Anet A8 plus a cute little M3D cube printer for $200 so there went the Ender for this month. Besides I got the wife a NIB Monoprice Select V2 (really cute) and I have it printing pretty good but one printer series at a time ... editing is a bear
Hi and thank you for watching and enjoying. Read the comment I added to Sgt Taz below .. the second one. I just found out a shocker ... so here is the link that I got mine from: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RMVK8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 links here ... see what is the best value for you ... I got both of them. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNPHDS5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you, All new videos are shot with my professional video setup. All on tripod just no time to edit as I am in my busy make money to survive time ... lol . I am a photographer and video guy and I needed a quick fix to shoot the beginning stuff but I have seen worse ... hahaha.
12:42 - what purpose does the spacer does when installed between the rail and stepper? Is it possible to explain why the sliver pulleys are better? Thanks. 26:17 - Can you explain more about this why the shim was needed?
Thinking your working on a CR-10, just an FYI for anyone that watches you will have issues with putting the stepper motor dampeners on the ender3/or 3pro. The bed adjustment wheel will crash into your stepper motor. Only option is to find a smaller knob to avoid this instance. Great video & Thanks!
Great advice ... I will see if I can put that in the description of the video that mentions that. I want a Ender 3 just to make a special quality building video but that will be a little down the road. Check in to the E3HD EZABL bed leveling sensor. You would need to flash your Melzi board to their modified Marlin but you gain a lot of good stuff. Then either print or just buy their aluminum tube supported solid mounts for under the heat bed. I plan on doing a video on this but its a big video covering a lot of stuff. In the end you get a more accurate and repeatable nozzle leveling that takes into consideration any variables in your print bed. No more knobs to adjust. I am amazed at how long that can take if your trying to be accurate. Thanks for any and all advice!
Taz, I just found out something today that freaked me out about the printers setup ... my frame came preassembled from Creality ... it was 1 degree tilting forward. I just did the math and found out that
at 14" from bed to hotend that creates a 8mm lean from bottom to top ... I am getting ready to make an alert video about this because even 1/2 a degree at 14" would create a 4mm vertical forward creep. WOW
@@3dmojo275 Yes, highly recommend that you check everything when they arrive, my whole setup was loose including the bed which had a slight bind due to one side being tighter than the other. Folks need to realize that even with the best quality control you still need to check every bolt, make sure the frame comes out square and all your connections are properly tightened. These aren't plug n play and you have to be a little more informed cuz these are NOT inkjet printers lol. I also check all my electrical because they don't have the temperature run on enabled in the firmware which can't be flashed via USB (www.th3dstudio.com/product/arduino-uno-bootloader-flashing-kit/) need this to get the ability to flash
By the way when I get my Ender 3 in a couple of weeks or less I will make a video on the cutting of the build plate support to handle the motor vibration mount! New series coming up shortly and more precise and to the point. Thanks again for watching
Sgt Taz I found a new way to help with the Y motor vibration that may work for you. I found some cork NEMA17 mounts that are around 1/8" thick. I will post something sometime but hey its better than motor to direct metal and it does not take a lot of space. Also, putting a dampener like I did in the videos on the Bowden motor is NOT A GOOD IDEA
Where did you get those poly-carbonate wheels from?
Would you recommend using a smooth bearing over the toothed bearing for the idler pulleys in your video? I would think the only place you want the toothed gear is on the stepper motor.
Yes most people would use a smooth idler wheel and tooth anywhere you need the belt to drive something. I am making a dual Z setup and the adjuster will use three pulleys. One will be geared and the other will be smooth. I am doing that because the geared one will pull tension on the belt and it works well like that whereas the idler ones will only see the back of the belt. I hope that helps.
@@3dmojo275 Thanks for getting back to me. Although I'm fairly mechanically inclined my background is in EE. Being retired I'm always looking for a new somewhat challenging hobby. 3D printing has me interested. After watching hours and hours of youtube videos on the subject, I ordered an Ender 3 Pro (it should be here in about a week). I really appreciate the detail in your videos and hope to apply the same concepts to my printer. A dual Z setup is way out of my league and I'm looking forward to seeing your design.
I need to get a Ender 3 and do a over the top precision build like most of my videos but I just picked up a new in box FLSUN printer and a used Anet A8 plus a cute little M3D cube printer for $200 so there went the Ender for this month. Besides I got the wife a NIB Monoprice Select V2 (really cute) and I have it printing pretty good but one printer series at a time ... editing is a bear
Hello. Could you provide a link to the wheels you’ve replaced please. I enjoyed your video, thanks much!
Hi and thank you for watching and enjoying. Read the comment I added to Sgt Taz below .. the second one. I just found out a shocker ... so here is the link that I got mine from: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RMVK8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link to the pulleys please
2 links here ... see what is the best value for you ... I got both of them.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNPHDS5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CXT6JMR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good content but suggest you get a tripod for the camera its hard to watch with all the camera shaking mounted to your head.
Thank you, All new videos are shot with my professional video setup. All on tripod just no time to edit as I am in my busy make money to survive time ... lol . I am a photographer and video guy and I needed a quick fix to shoot the beginning stuff but I have seen worse ... hahaha.
If this is the "fast pace", I would not survive the slow one.