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3DMojo
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Добавлен 26 дек 2018
Видео
FS-4DA Automatic Coin Sorter Royal Sovereign
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.4 года назад
This is a demonstration on how the FS-4DA Automatic Coin Sorter Royal Sovereign works. It also has a eBay link for a buy it now as of February 5, 2020. This talks about the unit and shows the loading and operation of the machine with coins.
The Simple yet AWESOME Bridge Rectifier - AC to DC
Просмотров 31 тыс.4 года назад
This is a straight forward not long winded video on how simple a 0-1000v 35amp maximum bridge rectifier can be used. This little guy saved me in a pinch. SImple and easy to use with no PHD required to watch and understand. I am not a Electronic Engineer so watch at your own risk and try to have some fun with me.
S1V2 Does Your Base Suck?
Просмотров 6745 лет назад
This is a sample of a series. I am waiting for likes or feedback before adding the others. Believe it or not, your 3D printer base is a major contributor to misaligned parts (Z-Axis BIG TIME) with your 3D printer. This is a primary build along with the Z-Posts installation ... everything after that is simple. Do not expect this to be easy. I am sorry to say this but it is true and I am still sh...
Amazon Basics Microwave Oven S9N29R Setup and Critique
Просмотров 3 тыс.5 лет назад
Haha ... this video loaded up by accident and it wasn't even finished. I cooked a sweet potato in the end and didn't get to add the end parts. Sorry ... I will work on this soon but the important part is setting it up and using it which I covered. This is a basic how to connect, voice command and setup some of the features on the Amazon Basics 0.7 cubic ft Microwave. What a great value this is....
Quick Tip 1 V Wheel Tension the EASY WAY (aka POM Wheel)
Просмотров 8745 лет назад
Here is a short and straight to the point way to adjust your V Wheels (POM wheels) on your 3D printer. This works with most 3D printers working with V-wheels that need to be fairly snug to the extrusion it runs against. So no more guessing and wondering if its correct. If I say "Tin Foil" its the same as "Aluminum Foil". Standard Aluminum foil is about 0.015 mm thick so by doubling it you end u...
Y AXIS Modifications and Calibrations for Ender 3, CR-10s and similar
Просмотров 7 тыс.5 лет назад
This is a fast pace Assemble and Calibrate your Y Axis plus 5 modifications for Ender 3 & CR-10s. This is the third episode about making an accurate printer that has tips and ways of thinking not mentioned before. Learn a whole new way to look at your Y Axis. After this comes the tricky X Axis video which shows how to get a single Z rod printer to actually be parallel with the top and bottom wh...
SQUARE YOUR BOTTOM! Ender 3 & CR-10
Просмотров 4,2 тыс.5 лет назад
This is a continuation of the original first video I made that shows how to square the base of your 3D printer using measuring tools and shims from aluminum foil. The first video was about making sure your Z extrusions are actually 90 degress perpendicular to the base frame. Mine actually came at a 89 degree lean which means bad prints at greater heights. My base is square which means I have a ...
STOP BUILDING NOW your Ender 3 & CR-10 Its important
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.5 лет назад
Thank you for watching my video. I am doing a series on how to accurately setup your 3D printer. Hopefully one day someone can sponsor me with a Creality Ender 3 so that I can make hopefully the best “setup accurately” video out there to help those who want their printer to work right. The next video will be about squaring the bottom of the printer using thin metal shims that you can make at ho...
Fix your true Z - CR-10 Ender 3 3D printer? DO THIS FIRST
Просмотров 15 тыс.5 лет назад
This video shows how to fix leaning vertical Z bars, check their parallel'ness to help print better quality 3D prints plus starts the next series of how to square the bottom frame for all Creality, CR-10, Ender 3. This is the first video I have created so its Episode 1. Episode 2 is a continuation where I square the base of the printer. Episode 3 is a better tools to build accurately video and ...
Wery well thanks
Does anyone in the 3d printing community use torque wrenches instead of imprecise methods like this? I've been pounding my head against the wall trying to get a measly torque tension value at least as a guideline! I think they sometimes even give you torque values with IKEA furniture!!! As a Mfg. of these devices, it behooves you to spell these things out so you don't have a lot of returns! It eliminated the guess work!
Greetings from Australia. Your channel was recommended and I'm glad it was. Good, practical and knowledgeable advice which is much appreciated. Thank you.
Helpful video. Please make more videos like this. Thanks.
12:42 - what purpose does the spacer does when installed between the rail and stepper? Is it possible to explain why the sliver pulleys are better? Thanks. 26:17 - Can you explain more about this why the shim was needed?
Thanks for making this video, extremely helpful. I have set up my Ender 3, but haven't fully finished yet because I knew I would get into issues without properly assembling it. Thank goodness I found this youtube channel. 4:30 - Wow they still use paper to calibrate million dollar CNC... I can bet you that many different A4 paper brands from staples would have many different thickness variations comparable to a feeler gauge. I think no one wants to mess with touching oily feeler gauge so paper is less hassle to work with.
1:35 - Where did you buy the precision triangle square, how much did it cost? Great that you're explaining how to properly align and build the CNC. You should make more videos on it. Like how to build a mini precision CNC, many would be interested. I have an ender 3 v1 which I'm building now, I know that it requires proper skills to build and calibrate. Is it possible I could use the "L" shaped machinists precision square instead of the triangle one you're using? I can not find a precision large machinists triangle square. Thanks for this helpful video, make more of them. I'm going to use the ender 3 CNC to make precision PCB boards using low powered 25mW UV laser which will sensitize UV photoresist. Possibly build my own mini-CNC using precision ground aluminum extrusion.
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Awesome video.
Good video just added a bridge rectifier to my battery charger..when i hooked it up burned up the rectificer.. i hooked it up wrong.. your video shows good hook up
6:58 if you would have touched that AC lead/clip with your left hand, couldn't it have shocked you?
Thanks sir,you've really help me
i have the first ender 3. Not a single cut on the aluminum extrusion was square. both sides were cut at a slight angle so i have zero square cuts. how do you fix that? ive had this problem since i got it and have not been able to understand why my prints all came out like shit. now that i know my entire ender kit was cut with a bad square i feel like im SOL.
Folks, please read up on how ac/dc converters actually work. There is a "little bit of loss" - because there is a .7vdc voltage drop across a silicon diode. The output you think you're seeing is not true DC. It is a "folded" sine wave. That accounts for the rest of the "loss" you're seeing on the meter. Because the RMS equivalent from DC to AC is .707
I'll try this right away. 😁 Thanks!!
Great video and a neat trick with the foil shims.
Thank you😇
Thanks for the video. I'm new to 3d printing, and this thing not being squared and true drives me nuts. I'm going to buy another feeler guage and use it to make my shims.
I have one question, my moped has only 1 cable AC, i put it on the side with the writing on and connected nothing to the opposite why does that work?
Mine keeps on saying fail any idea on how to fix
You've probably figured this out, but both the Alexa speaker device and the mircrowave have to be on the same 2.4gz wifi. The microwave will only connect to 2.4gz
sir is it possible to have ac volts on the dc pin of the diode? thanks
Wanted to watch this so bad, stop crunching candy with a head mounted camera please!!
Hi buddy I have a bridge rectifier that has the letters and numbers on it , SKB - 25/01 + 0461 , I need to replace it I think do you know what type of bridge rectifier I can replace it with as I can’t seem to find anything with the same numbers on it , it’s from a camper van and I think it’s for converting AC from a transformer to 12v for charging my leisure battery , I don’t understand it very well at all and so hoping u can shed some light on my situation if possible, many thanks in advance 😊😊👍
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Hey do you happen to have the thingiverse link or files for the hotend mount you showed in the video? I have the same one and it cracked when my nozzle hit the bed the other day. I'd rather print out just the part I need instead of a whole new part cooling setup, but I cant find the file for the mount since it was made over 2 years ago.
I like how you explain things awesome. Thank you
just like to say thank you for this video it help to sort out my CR-10 & now my is base & uprights square now can upgrade it.
I'm a machinist, so I'm going to throw mine on a mill and square these up. Great video!
i wish i could do that, my frame is SOOOO bad
Does it need capacitor to run or not I mean like we connect 4 diodes and 1..2 capacitor to run it for dc
¿Donde lo puedo conseguir?.
I have a CR10 and my Z axis wasn't square at all. I installed a pair of metal stabilizer bars from Amazon and it's been perfect ever since. This makes a big difference if you're doing taller prints.
mine was off by a good 1/4 inch . ended up sanding it down slowly on a solid wood benchtop
Great video, thanks!
Thank you for the video, do you know how to turn the beeping sound off ?
Any luck figuring it out?
😊 👍 thanks
If this is the "fast pace", I would not survive the slow one.
Hello, great vid, can a 3oz popcorn bag fit ?
Hi FLoyd. Thank you for the question. Yes it does and no kidding I am popping one right now. Pop-Secret 3.2oz Butter popcorn ... here comes the heart attack! We have enjoyed the microwave but keep the moisture out when done or in the rear area you may see some rust starting to peal up the paint. This happens a lot with microwaves as they are constantly making steam. Best practice is to leave the door open (I know the light is irritating) to let the moisture release.
@@3dmojo275 thanks, so the bag doesn't rub against the sides ?
Thank you for this, I hope you make more :)
Did you ever upload the X axis video?
I have a cr10 clone was never able to get gantry level... none of the howto videos worked... i ended up printing pretty well for a few months, but yesterday i tried again to level since its off approx 1/4 inch and bed is leveled on a slant etc... anyway i musle it etc now it wont travel up and down i may have screwed up one of motors... anyway... i will see i can tear it all down and start from scratch...i think a beer can may be even better for shims btw... thanks
I hope this helps. I agree with a tear down and start over. Remember to drink the beer can (it may require two) as a fresh aluminum can is better than an old one ... lol. I always hate the complete tear down and rebuilds as well. You don't know how badly things are out of alignment until you send the first print code to the print head. You may want to try some incense, meditation and a prayer as well before you hit "print" on the next go round. Good luck! By the way, solid silicon mounts under the heat bed and level the X gantry to the bed as best as possible and then fine tune the four corners of the heat bed to the gantry at the front, back, left and right positions to the left and right of the gantry and you may be pleasantly pleased. I did add a silent board to mine with Marlin and a clone BL Touch and I am totally amazed at the quality and silence of the system. I run it almost 24/7 making products to sale for my wife.
@@3dmojo275 Hi, i did a few other more simple things and it seems to be printing sooo much better ...thanks
My machine doesn’t let me push the tubes back in to fill another 4 with quarters It gets stuck after the 4 tubes. Is there a trick to push back in ? Row of tubes that is full somehow gets stuck and won’t go back in after putting in new wrappers
I cannot promise this is the answer, but check your door level and make sure it is flat with the sorter on a table. Then you should be able to pull the setup out to the last tube row and take out the clear coin tubes. Try gently pushing the now empty tray back inside. If it hesitates, there could be something on the bottom that is interfering with the closure. You may need to take the top off (now this is from memory) by taking off the back Phillips head screw. Then I think you take the coin mover out of the top and lift the cover off. Be aware that there could be a connector cable going to your little control/display board. This is a great time to clean your machine and see if anything is in the way. You can also make the open and closing of the tray motion to see what may be in the path. Good luck!
Would a combination square be enough for this or does it need to be something like what used in the video?
Thank You so much for sharing this information
good video!
Thank you for uploading this video. Mine is already in pieces but I was stuck here didn’t know what to use to make it square. Aluminium foil is a great idea.
Hey Pete, I don't remember if I mentioned this but aluminum cans are awesome shim material as well. When I am using them on the bottom of extrusions to build height, I use a standard hand held hole punch to punch a nice hole for any screws to go through. I just leveled a 1000lb milling machine with these! Better than spending $100 on rolled steel shim foil. Thank you for the comment and I plan to get more things online soon. Currently doing a Ender 3 motherboard replacement to a BigTreeTech model ... AWESOME and the motors are silent! and they make a replacement plug in screen for the Ender 3 that is both touch screen and standard style! I opted for a larger one with bigger finger area so I had to print a holder but its really nice!
Where did you get those poly-carbonate wheels from?
I don't think the corners are critical. What's important is that the z is square and the y-carriage is perpendicular with the plane of the two z beams.
Hi Dave! I can appreciate that thought. Normally I make sure that everything is square now as I have seen the differences in the assembly ease and less adjustments needed for the build. As odd as it sounds, some kits are horrible and the twists when assembling really throws off the paralleness of the X axis when connected to the Z's if the Z's are twisted. I just did a CNC 3018 build and by squaring everything in the beginning the build was a snap and its actually becoming quite the little CNC beast. Call me a square ... lol but even my big vertical mill is sitting at 0.0005" level on the X and 0.0001 on the Y. The guys go rounds on the machining sites about this squaring debate but I just chose to do it anyways. I will be putting up better videos soon. This was a while back and I am now playing catch-up as I have about 5 printers to build plus the major amount of CNC mods I have done on the 3018. Please chime in anytime. I need to explain things better but its late ... I have found so many new ways to tweak and work around problems that I have not seen mentioned. I am also preparing to install a ARMS powered board on the wife's Ender 3 which will be a smooth BL Touch beast with smoothie chips. It will also have a nice touch screen and built in SD card reader all for less than the newest Creality board updates. Cheers and thank you for chiming in! Happy New Year!
where do you get those type of shims...? thanks
Believe it or not ... I use regular and heavy duty tin foil and now I cut 20mm x 20mm squares from soda cans. I like the Arizona tea cans as I can get a bunch out of them. Then I punch a hole in the center with a hole punch (simple office supply type) and now I have three levels of shim materials. It works sooooo well. Thank you for asking and have a great and save build!
@@3dmojo275 yes .. i have cut up soda cans and made and fixed things before...there are materials all around us waiting to be repurposed...thax
@@roadstar499 Now as much as I like to recycle and use foils and cans ... I should be ordering some shim material soon. Its hardened steel and comes in a roll 6" x 100" for less than $10. I am going to get some 0.002", 0.005", 0.010". There is a sample box for $22 with 4' of each .001", .002", .003" and .005" but I hope to get there faster with my original choice and if I need some .001 I can always use aluminum foil. Thanks for the reply!
11:49 "I do have a video on how to fix your wheels if they are already damaged" I've watched all the videos on your channel back to back, and I didn't find how to fix the v wheels other than swapping them out. Since I'm taking my Ender 3 apart very soon to make the frame as straight and square as possible, I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to re-smooth the wheels (and the inside track of the aluminium extrusion in case of bumps) before putting it back together. Thanks again for the information you are putting out there.
my apologies. I may have forgotten that part in the video edits. But, using a wet dry super fine sanding cloth / paper, you can gently bring the bumps down. If your wheel is out of round then it needs replacing but if its small Knicks, you can often remove the outward nick with a sharp blade and then use 800 and higher grit to polish it down smoothly. Any super fine abrasive will work. I have diamond wheels up to 4000 or 8000 ... they are too slow for the start but the final finish is beautiful. Good luck!
@@3dmojo275 Thank you. Finishing up reassembling my ender 3, it had no teeth from putting them in the frame, nor deep grooves from being too tight, thank GOD. They did however, have little round bumps, clearly from manufacturing that I didn't notice or was looking for the first time, so I cut them with an exacto and smoothed with 220 then 400, the only ones I had available. I've watched many videos before putting it together the first time and I think I did a decent job in putting them carefully and adjust the tightness, alas your videos weren't out yet so I didn't do anything to the frame except align the vertical bars in the horizontal direction, I even had the bottom frame wobble which was supported by a piece of folded up paper and tape. After squaring the frame, the wobble was gone. Again thanks for the information as well as the time and hassle to tape it and upload it.