Exact same issue at around 80k miles for me, tried everything to not have to drop the tank (filter, resistor, even battery) with little improvement, but in the end the fuel pump was the solution.
I have real-time oil pressure on the race-dash so I don't pay a ton of attention to the heavily-damped meter in the cluster. I suspect it's because I went deeper into VTEC on those first pulls and there was less time in between which does drop the pressure a little. On the race dash it was still like 70psi though.
i did the pump voume test from the manual. failed with almost no flow. i used a denso pump from rock auto and did the test again, and passed in like 5 seconds.
Had this same problem. Tried the resistor and it worked for a bit, but then the car was hestitant again. Had the fuel pump replaced and my issues are gone ever since.
Thanks for the data point. I'm probably going to do the pump as a matter of course, though I have a couple of other things to check along the way I think.
@@UltraStunts Yeah, I was for the most part, but was in any gear at WOT from lower RPM. I've done a couple of subsequent videos resolving this. In my case it was a bad aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. However if your car is stock it's likely either the fuel pump resistor, or the pump itself (without knowing anything else anyway). That said definitely do your own diagnostic cycle before dropping the tank in case it's something electrical up/down stream.
@@LapoftheWorld my car is all stock. 37k miles. But has sat a long time with previous owner. I tested it again with the fuel resistor by-pass and with the resistor. My second test was in the evening when it was cooler. The car was at temp but cooler surroundings. I could not reproduce it. Also I was noticing the dip after driving the car for 30-40 min on a fun run. I am going the order a fuel pump while I still can. It will need it eventually. I noticed that you are not using a split pin on the gear changer. What type of pin are you using?
@@UltraStunts Ah, yeah, if it's been sitting probably want the pump, filter and spare a thought for cleaning the tank if you're already going to be in there. Also, not sure what you mean by split pin?
I'm considering buying an NSX it has 215000 Kms. There are no obvious problems but can you recommend some less obvious maintenance jobs I should be thinking about doing if I buy it?
It would depend a bit on the model year, but generally at that "mileage", you'd just want to make sure the timing belt/water pump had been replaced on time, and that the coolant hoses had been done in the past few years. Other things to check will be the stereo speakers, HVAC blower speed control, and power window performance (slow roll up is normal, but both sides should be equal). If it's a pre-2000 car you'll want to make sure the ABS pump still works. Maybe have someone bore-scope the throttle body to make sure the variable volume butterfly screws are all present and seated. Beyond that would be getting pretty obscure or into general stuff like not leaking oil, or CV boots being good still. Really there's probably a whole video in this topic that I should make, lol.
@@LapoftheWorld thank you! Its my 'cheap' option out of 3 cars I'm considering. Im nervous it will cost lots to get it up to a good standard so I may aswel just buy the lower milage better condition car
@@birdy3934 To be fair, compared to even a modern Porsche or really any Italian, a 1st gen NSX will be a cheap date. The odds of ALL of that list needing attention would be hopefully slim.
@@LapoftheWorld Yes for entry level NSX money there are other options with a Porsche badge but my heart will only accept an NSX. This car has new tyres, new battery and alternator and just been serviced. The belts look trustworthy. No Aircon the hose to the condenser was damaged, no abs but I don't mind that. All brake discs very worn. I feel like it's had a hard life but has been fixed up recently to be sold. Started up and drove perfectly my gut feeling is it's ok
@@birdy3934 If the core drivetrain is good, the rest is somewhat details. Brake pads and rotors are cheap. I also had to replace an AC pipe due to the previous owner, but swapping just that and the drier canister allowed me to resurrect the AC (very necessary where I live).
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
Exact same issue at around 80k miles for me, tried everything to not have to drop the tank (filter, resistor, even battery) with little improvement, but in the end the fuel pump was the solution.
powered by powerade and sarcasm
Some days, lol.
Is the noticeably lower oil pressure from your first pull expected? I love these troubleshooting videos.
I have real-time oil pressure on the race-dash so I don't pay a ton of attention to the heavily-damped meter in the cluster. I suspect it's because I went deeper into VTEC on those first pulls and there was less time in between which does drop the pressure a little. On the race dash it was still like 70psi though.
i did the pump voume test from the manual. failed with almost no flow. i used a denso pump from rock auto and did the test again, and passed in like 5 seconds.
Had this same problem. Tried the resistor and it worked for a bit, but then the car was hestitant again. Had the fuel pump replaced and my issues are gone ever since.
Thanks for the data point. I'm probably going to do the pump as a matter of course, though I have a couple of other things to check along the way I think.
Like your powertrain, I hesitated…to begin watching the video.
🤣🤣🤣 It's not the worst news, but more than likely more work that I was hoping for mid-summer, lol.
Honda always made the fanciest resistor packs.
I am having a similar issue. Occurs at about 4,500pm. What gear are you doing those pulls in? 2nd gear?
@@UltraStunts Yeah, I was for the most part, but was in any gear at WOT from lower RPM. I've done a couple of subsequent videos resolving this. In my case it was a bad aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. However if your car is stock it's likely either the fuel pump resistor, or the pump itself (without knowing anything else anyway). That said definitely do your own diagnostic cycle before dropping the tank in case it's something electrical up/down stream.
@@LapoftheWorld my car is all stock. 37k miles. But has sat a long time with previous owner. I tested it again with the fuel resistor by-pass and with the resistor. My second test was in the evening when it was cooler. The car was at temp but cooler surroundings. I could not reproduce it. Also I was noticing the dip after driving the car for 30-40 min on a fun run. I am going the order a fuel pump while I still can. It will need it eventually. I noticed that you are not using a split pin on the gear changer. What type of pin are you using?
@@UltraStunts Ah, yeah, if it's been sitting probably want the pump, filter and spare a thought for cleaning the tank if you're already going to be in there. Also, not sure what you mean by split pin?
I'm considering buying an NSX it has 215000 Kms. There are no obvious problems but can you recommend some less obvious maintenance jobs I should be thinking about doing if I buy it?
It would depend a bit on the model year, but generally at that "mileage", you'd just want to make sure the timing belt/water pump had been replaced on time, and that the coolant hoses had been done in the past few years. Other things to check will be the stereo speakers, HVAC blower speed control, and power window performance (slow roll up is normal, but both sides should be equal). If it's a pre-2000 car you'll want to make sure the ABS pump still works. Maybe have someone bore-scope the throttle body to make sure the variable volume butterfly screws are all present and seated. Beyond that would be getting pretty obscure or into general stuff like not leaking oil, or CV boots being good still. Really there's probably a whole video in this topic that I should make, lol.
@@LapoftheWorld thank you! Its my 'cheap' option out of 3 cars I'm considering. Im nervous it will cost lots to get it up to a good standard so I may aswel just buy the lower milage better condition car
@@birdy3934 To be fair, compared to even a modern Porsche or really any Italian, a 1st gen NSX will be a cheap date. The odds of ALL of that list needing attention would be hopefully slim.
@@LapoftheWorld Yes for entry level NSX money there are other options with a Porsche badge but my heart will only accept an NSX. This car has new tyres, new battery and alternator and just been serviced. The belts look trustworthy. No Aircon the hose to the condenser was damaged, no abs but I don't mind that. All brake discs very worn. I feel like it's had a hard life but has been fixed up recently to be sold. Started up and drove perfectly my gut feeling is it's ok
@@birdy3934 If the core drivetrain is good, the rest is somewhat details. Brake pads and rotors are cheap. I also had to replace an AC pipe due to the previous owner, but swapping just that and the drier canister allowed me to resurrect the AC (very necessary where I live).