Sounds really odd, but even though I've 'been there and done that', I find myself captivated by your videos. Just a ton of enjoyment to watch. And thank you for all you do to promote Daisy BB gun ownership.
You're too kind. It's instructive when you get to look into the innards of a toy gun that's been a icon of American culture for over 100 years and you see that the original design and materials could work and last as long in they do in the hands of the most destructive force known to man. American kids.
Before the first minute you say you are going to train us to do your job--one of the biggest nonos in the repairman field as it diminishes your business. Bravo sir.
@@RestOModDaisy On that note I cannot find the Daisy Modder's Bible at the High Road forum. The link does not lead me there nor does it show up even with a forum search. Can you help? Trying to learn more about the Red Ryder and oddly, info seems scarce around the web.
@@Hjerte_Verke Fixed it. The precise link is "www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/". 77 pages of Daisy modding activity!.
Good video ! Very happy to see another cutaway…I made one out of a very wasted 105b…and it was about the best return on a $2 investment I’ve seen in a long time! It allows inspection of sear engagement on custom billet triggers (a set-up that looks very similar to the extra hole above and behind the trigger mount hole on yours), as well as providing info for several other mods as well. There’s just no substitute for actually being able to see what’s going on. Well done sir !
Thanks Rex, The little 105 has all sorts of holes drilled in it for mounting the pre-1978 steel triggers, low pivot and high pivot levers and such. It is a great fabbing tool!
@@RestOModDaisy That it is ! Mine has led me to rethink several situations, for example: The triggers i’m using have about 1/4” offset to the rear, and have a full-width bushing made from drilled and cut-down shot tube material, but most importantly, they have a small slot that allows the original trigger bolt to be used as a trigger stop so it doesn’t contact the crossbar. Another is that the lever nose can be about 1/4” longer than standard and not interfere with anything. This not only shortens the cocking stroke, but because it arms earlier in the arc, the nose stays in a higher position on the plunger so it doesn’t interfere with sear engagement. This cutaway has also shown me that current RR spring anchors are too short, instead of the bend at the bottom cupping the rivet, it rides a little above the rivet and catches it at the point instead of in the bend which puts the spring at a weird angle…I’ve started using 102 or 105b anchors with the sight removed to keep from putting the spring in a bind. It’s also led me down another “rabbit hole” experimenting with a shortened compression chamber…12.5% less air (which it doesn’t need all of anyway, still more chamber capacity than a 25 or 96), but compression stroke is faster, probably by a similar percentage…gonna take a some work to fine tune this mod, but it might get interesting.
@@rexwysocki8432 I've seen your work over at The High Road forum. Ever thought about doing a video or two? Back when I was working on the Sliding Spring Block, I went with low pivot guns because the ocking stroke was shorter than the Hi pivot guns. That mod interests me.
Love the new and improved cut away gun. Wide body cut away sounds cool. You might as well open that can of worms and do a model 25 cut away. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for showing this, I was trying to picture in my mind how the ported air tube works and now I get it. My stock Red Ryder shoots ~275fps which seems pretty good.
Very cool cut out and information...got some good laughs with you daughter in there . I enjoy how yall get along . Enioy her comments too . We got a Zooooommm...lolololol
Wonderful explanation and presentation. Post '78 is getting to be less of a "modern" gun. Even anti beartrap ones aren't so new anymore. Dang! I feel so old.
That would be doable but since it has a non rifled barrel you would not see any major improvments in performance. Pellets are made of lead and weigh more that the steel BB's these guns shoot so the velocity drop should be significant. A better chioce would be to acquire one of the Daisy multi stroke pneumatics like the 880 that can fire both projectiles and have the ability to vary the velocity by how many pumps you cycle.
Sure. When I convert one of these into a mares leg I normally take the first 3.5 inches off the barrel shroud leaving about 4.5 inches of barrel shroud/shot tube on the reciever. An Example ruclips.net/video/ypXlexIJ5uU/видео.html
Hi Shane, I'm really enjoying your YT videos, you really make the technical details of the Daisy BB guns interesting and engaging. But I have a burning question about how these guns work: Looking at the bottom of the barrel/receiver assembly for the small-frame guns, I see that it is roll-formed sheetmetal with a seam down the underside of the part. My question is, in the area of the compression cylinder, doesn't that seam on the underside of the cylinder form an open leak path for the compressed air to escape? Or is there an internal tubular cylinder or something else that is sealed all the way around? I don't have a Buck 105 to look at, and on the Red Ryder that area is covered by the magazine tube, so I can't tell on my own. Thanks again for all the videos, they're great!
Bob, the compression clyinder starts just ahead of that bend in the sheetmetal going towards the muzzle. The bend is there for additional strength in the lower reciver which gets a lot of stress during the cocking cycle and that space is basically empty, hence no welded seam.
@@RestOModDaisy Hi Shane, I found the answer to my question in a comment by @terrybest8973 on the slip'n'slide compression chamber video: Apparently the earlier small-frame guns had a separate tube for the compression chamber, and because it was a full tube it sealed all the way around. However, it appears that the later guns don't have that separate tube, and the compression chamber is just formed by the roll-formed sheet steel. Apparently that area of the barrel/receiver assembly is closed with a solder joint along the seam, and that's what keeps the air in. It would be interesting to put a borescope camera into that area, and see what the inside of that solder joint looks like. My guess is that the factory spent no small amount of time developing the tooling and process that makes the solder joint smooth enough so that the plunger seals effectively against it without getting torn up.
Hi, so I have recently purchased a 111 model 40 and have put in a 499 spring and new rubber seals with a 7/64 air tube. The problem is that when I shoot it bbs just fall out of the barrel, any chance you know what the problem is?
Nope empty out all bbs them unnscrew the top of the barrel that covers the bb compartment and check and see if your barrel has a wire on it check and see if ots functioning properly thats what holds the bb in
great "vid"; have 'adult" red rider(nice); being a "port sider" the saftey is in the way...can it be reversed. is the barrel screwed in tight, like a #25, or just as loose as the old "rattletraps". would like to install that style barrel + modified power spring unit!!!
I just bought my first 499B and have been studying online to learn the internal operations of the rifle. I have a simple question for you, Mark, or anyone with experience. Do these 'hot rod' spring assemblies you guys build have any negative affect to other components within the rifle? Thanks for your very informative vids! Appreciate you guys.
They might exceed the original design specs of the guns we use them in but I personally doubt it. The venerable Red Ryder has been around since 1940 and was originally equipped with a mainspring that's very close to the Cobalt 327 mainspring in terms of compressive force. Seal systems have transitioned from leather on the old guns, which could last forever if properly oiled, to the current production synthetics which require periodic oiling for proper operation. None of these components look any worse for wear after extended use of the upgraded mainspring or an overbore airtube but those mods have only been around for the last couple of years. It'll probably take another 20-30 years of hard use to be able to reach a solid conclusion.
@@RestOModDaisy Har,Har! I am 65 now so if the rifle stays together just a few years it will become my Grandson's problem if it breaks-down! 🙂 Thanks kindly for your thoughts regarding my question.
@@RestOModDaisy Sorry I just do not get this high Tech stuff I'll talk to my wife tomorrow or should I say later today and see if she can help me get a message to you. Thanks
I'm in need of a metal cockig lever for my 1968 110 buck anyone know where I can get one. I know its a 68 fuse I bought it new then I think for $2.99 best I can remember.
Thank God to the rest of us, for people with engineering and machinist inclinations. Where would the world be without engineers and machinists?
Or tinkers!
@@RestOModDaisy. That's just a fancy word for mechanics.
Sounds really odd, but even though I've 'been there and done that', I find myself captivated by your videos. Just a ton of enjoyment to watch. And thank you for all you do to promote Daisy BB gun ownership.
Thanks Mark!
Not a native english speaker but I love the way you comment your videos. Daisy BB guns will always have a place in my heart
Thanks!
As always, your videos are some of my favorite to watch!! Awesome explanation of how millions of smiles have been on faces for years.
You're too kind. It's instructive when you get to look into the innards of a toy gun that's been a icon of American culture for over 100 years and you see that the original design and materials could work and last as long in they do in the hands of the most destructive force known to man. American kids.
Before the first minute you say you are going to train us to do your job--one of the biggest nonos in the repairman field as it diminishes your business. Bravo sir.
Thanks!
@@RestOModDaisy On that note I cannot find the Daisy Modder's Bible at the High Road forum. The link does not lead me there nor does it show up even with a forum search. Can you help? Trying to learn more about the Red Ryder and oddly, info seems scarce around the web.
@@Hjerte_Verke Fixed it. The precise link is "www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/". 77 pages of Daisy modding activity!.
The requested page cannot be found. Anywhere else I can check out the modding list? Broken ankle has me stuck in a wheelchair win bored 😆
Shouts of “my eye , my eye” ! Like your cutaway tho .
Good video !
Very happy to see another cutaway…I made one out of a very wasted 105b…and it was about the best return on a $2 investment I’ve seen in a long time!
It allows inspection of sear engagement on custom billet triggers (a set-up that looks very similar to the extra hole above and behind the trigger mount hole on yours), as well as providing info for several other mods as well. There’s just no substitute for actually being able to see what’s going on.
Well done sir !
Thanks Rex, The little 105 has all sorts of holes drilled in it for mounting the pre-1978 steel triggers, low pivot and high pivot levers and such. It is a great fabbing tool!
@@RestOModDaisy
That it is ! Mine has led me to rethink several situations, for example:
The triggers i’m using have about 1/4” offset to the rear, and have a full-width bushing made from drilled and cut-down shot tube material, but most importantly, they have a small slot that allows the original trigger bolt to be used as a trigger stop so it doesn’t contact the crossbar.
Another is that the lever nose can be about 1/4” longer than standard and not interfere with anything. This not only shortens the cocking stroke, but because it arms earlier in the arc, the nose stays in a higher position on the plunger so it doesn’t interfere with sear engagement.
This cutaway has also shown me that current RR spring anchors are too short, instead of the bend at the bottom cupping the rivet, it rides a little above the rivet and catches it at the point instead of in the bend which puts the spring at a weird angle…I’ve started using 102 or 105b anchors with the sight removed to keep from putting the spring in a bind.
It’s also led me down another “rabbit hole” experimenting with a shortened compression chamber…12.5% less air (which it doesn’t need all of anyway, still more chamber capacity than a 25 or 96), but compression stroke is faster, probably by a similar percentage…gonna take a some work to fine tune this mod, but it might get interesting.
@@rexwysocki8432 I've seen your work over at The High Road forum. Ever thought about doing a video or two? Back when I was working on the Sliding Spring Block, I went with low pivot guns because the ocking stroke was shorter than the Hi pivot guns. That mod interests me.
Good cutaway and explanation of operations.
Thanks!
Good work with the cut-aways. I didn't realize the BB goes in that far forward.
Thanks! I'm thinking of doing a cut-away video on some other Daisy models as well. Nothing like seeing the mechanism work.
Love the new and improved cut away gun. Wide body cut away sounds cool. You might as well open that can of worms and do a model 25 cut away. Keep up the good work.
You know, I've never seen a Model 25 cut away. They are a can of worms.
Excellent presentation!
Thanks!
Thanks so much for showing this, I was trying to picture in my mind how the ported air tube works and now I get it. My stock Red Ryder shoots ~275fps which seems pretty good.
Very cool cut out and information...got some good laughs with you daughter in there . I enjoy how yall get along . Enioy her comments too . We got a Zooooommm...lolololol
Love your videos! Keep them coming!
Thanks, I plan to.
Wonderful explanation and presentation.
Post '78 is getting to be less of a "modern" gun. Even anti beartrap ones aren't so new anymore. Dang! I feel so old.
I just got a Daisy Model 40 "Defender" in. It's a 107 year old small frame. My Ganddpa might have one of those!
@@RestOModDaisy 🤨 The pain of reality.
Can you turn it into a pellet shooter?
That would be doable but since it has a non rifled barrel you would not see any major improvments in performance. Pellets are made of lead and weigh more that the steel BB's these guns shoot so the velocity drop should be significant. A better chioce would be to acquire one of the Daisy multi stroke pneumatics like the 880 that can fire both projectiles and have the ability to vary the velocity by how many pumps you cycle.
Is it possible to shorten the barrel by 5 inches????
Sure. When I convert one of these into a mares leg I normally take the first 3.5 inches off the barrel shroud leaving about 4.5 inches of barrel shroud/shot tube on the reciever. An Example
ruclips.net/video/ypXlexIJ5uU/видео.html
Thanks you 👍👍
Next daisy powerline880 please
Not in my wheelhouse!
Hi Shane, I'm really enjoying your YT videos, you really make the technical details of the Daisy BB guns interesting and engaging. But I have a burning question about how these guns work:
Looking at the bottom of the barrel/receiver assembly for the small-frame guns, I see that it is roll-formed sheetmetal with a seam down the underside of the part. My question is, in the area of the compression cylinder, doesn't that seam on the underside of the cylinder form an open leak path for the compressed air to escape? Or is there an internal tubular cylinder or something else that is sealed all the way around? I don't have a Buck 105 to look at, and on the Red Ryder that area is covered by the magazine tube, so I can't tell on my own.
Thanks again for all the videos, they're great!
Bob, the compression clyinder starts just ahead of that bend in the sheetmetal going towards the muzzle. The bend is there for additional strength in the lower reciver which gets a lot of stress during the cocking cycle and that space is basically empty, hence no welded seam.
@@RestOModDaisy Hi Shane, I found the answer to my question in a comment by @terrybest8973 on the slip'n'slide compression chamber video: Apparently the earlier small-frame guns had a separate tube for the compression chamber, and because it was a full tube it sealed all the way around. However, it appears that the later guns don't have that separate tube, and the compression chamber is just formed by the roll-formed sheet steel. Apparently that area of the barrel/receiver assembly is closed with a solder joint along the seam, and that's what keeps the air in. It would be interesting to put a borescope camera into that area, and see what the inside of that solder joint looks like. My guess is that the factory spent no small amount of time developing the tooling and process that makes the solder joint smooth enough so that the plunger seals effectively against it without getting torn up.
is it possible to install a rubber to lesson the rod hitting so hard a dampner and also make a spring that'll give it more power
Hi, so I have recently purchased a 111 model 40 and have put in a 499 spring and new rubber seals with a 7/64 air tube. The problem is that when I shoot it bbs just fall out of the barrel, any chance you know what the problem is?
It sounds like your abutment seal is not set. When you installed the seals did you have a compression cup and an abutment seal?
Yeah it came with both and I believe it is set but I'm not completely sure
Nope empty out all bbs them unnscrew the top of the barrel that covers the bb compartment and check and see if your barrel has a wire on it check and see if ots functioning properly thats what holds the bb in
The new models use a magnet
great "vid"; have 'adult" red rider(nice); being a "port sider" the saftey is in the way...can it be reversed. is the barrel screwed in tight, like a #25, or just as loose as the old "rattletraps". would like to install that style barrel + modified power spring unit!!!
I noticed it didn’t click when you cocked the gun. Can that ratchet mechanism be removed? I’m not really worried about getting my fingers snapped.
I just bought my first 499B and have been studying online to learn the internal operations of the rifle. I have a simple question for you, Mark, or anyone with experience. Do these 'hot rod' spring assemblies you guys build have any negative affect to other components within the rifle?
Thanks for your very informative vids! Appreciate you guys.
They might exceed the original design specs of the guns we use them in but I personally doubt it. The venerable Red Ryder has been around since 1940 and was originally equipped with a mainspring that's very close to the Cobalt 327 mainspring in terms of compressive force. Seal systems have transitioned from leather on the old guns, which could last forever if properly oiled, to the current production synthetics which require periodic oiling for proper operation. None of these components look any worse for wear after extended use of the upgraded mainspring or an overbore airtube but those mods have only been around for the last couple of years. It'll probably take another 20-30 years of hard use to be able to reach a solid conclusion.
@@RestOModDaisy Har,Har! I am 65 now so if the rifle stays together just a few years it will become my Grandson's problem if it breaks-down! 🙂
Thanks kindly for your thoughts regarding my question.
@@RG-oj8br My pleasure, It was a really good question.
Can the button seal be replaced on a 1943 red ryder bb gun? If so how
How can I contact you about upgrading my brand new still in the box 1999 bullseye?
Email recieved.
I still would like your address or PO Box so I can send you a couple of very old Daisy BB gun boxes.
I never look a gift horse in the mouth, my is listed in the video description above.
@@RestOModDaisy Sorry I just do not get this high Tech stuff I'll talk to my wife tomorrow or should I say later today and see if she can help me get a message to you. Thanks
I'm in need of a metal cockig lever for my 1968 110 buck anyone know where I can get one. I know its a 68 fuse I bought it new then I think for $2.99 best I can remember.