Funny, right now i'm in the block prep stage of building a 334 small block, i'm focused on radiusing the 90* corners of the main oiling system (with some long shank burrs) at the back of the block after the pump , but you've got me thinking there's a couple more things i should be doing , tks fer the tips ! Looking forward to part 2 👍
HELLO EVERYONE WE HAD A CAMERA MISHAP SOMEWHERE AROUND THE 15-MINUTE MARK SORRY ABOUT THAT BUT BASICALLY I USED THE DRILL TO TAP THE HOLE JUST BE REALLY CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO IT AND IT WILL TURN OUT FINE.
@@SalterRacingEngines I like to say thank you very much for your guidance and you are giving away a very big tip. You are giving away your experience. Thank you for your RUclips channel mate. It’s helped a lot. Cheers mate Mark from Australia.
I would pay money to spend a couple days learning from you. If you ever decide to have a small scale training program about some basic modifications that you have came up with, I would be very interested. Thank you for sharing.
Wow thanks Brian for sharing that! I have built some championship winning engines for circle track, both dirt and asphalt back in the day up until mid 90's when we had good oils with plenty of zinc content everywhere so we never really had any cam oiling issues but we never really ran them up past 8200-8400. Only time we ever drilled into the galley was through the galley plug to deliver oil to the thrust bearing and Summers Bros gear drive setup. But, when building Pro4 2300 Ford engines with huge flat tappet cams, cam break in was a battle until GM came out with the greatest additive ever made at the time and it was simply called E.O.S, which stood for ENGINE OIL SUPPLEMENT. Lobe failures ceased to exist when we'd liberally coat the entire cam and followers with it. I bet you knew of this stuff back then, it was practically liquid ball bearings in a bottle, worked so amazing. I bought an entire pallet of the stuff because at one time we heard from a guy at the local Chevy dealership -which was the only place that stuff was available, that the EPA was getting ready to make GM pull it from the shelves. I still have maybe 1 case left floating around the shop along with a half dozen bottles with a small hole poked through the lid cap. They come in handy every so often when a friend or someone is having cam issues. On the 2.3 Ford even with lightweight springs for break in procedures it was a 50/50 chance to wipe a lobe with the bigger grinds using any of the cam break in lube compounds other than EOS. I use it on all metal on metal components on any engines I build. I haven't looked to even see if they ever stopped making the stuff, but am going to check after I finish this comment. I highly doubt there could be anything that's ever out performed EOS but if there is, I'm sure you would know Brian. Is there something better? This was a HUGE secret of the top engine builders back in the day in our town. I have learned a ton of stuff I thought I knew already by watching your videos and you're an awesome and honorable man for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us all. One if these days I am thinking about making a video on how to drop a distributor ALL THE WAY in the hole fully seated on number 1 WITHOUT having to bump the engine over and it works 99.9% of the time. I did like the fact you shared your knowledge on distributor PHASING correctly during installation, we know there's a lot of folks losing out on some performance potential by being out of phase and chasing other things trying to sort it out....great call by you to offer that during your install process video. Looking forward to seeing and learning more from you and sharing your channel with others to help your subscriber count continue to climb. Thank you. -CHEERS
How about I just tell you the trick that helps and let you know that I used my homemade priming tool from an old dizzy housing and shaft, stamped a mark on it and the shaft to perfectly line up the collared pump drive slot, and used a reference point on the block (All were SBC) this was to help indicate the exact position of no 1 intake port - after some time of doing it that way it was easier with eyeball once you knew the sweet spot and could duplicate it each time, then comes the part I'm sure you already know or knew, and my mind has gone blank because it's been a minute since the last SBC I built, and I have the measurements scribed into the drawer of my toolbox but if I remember correctly without going out to the shop at about 130am, on an HEI housing, you back up the rotor position 2-5/16" from number 1 position and on the smaller base version you retard it 1-5/8" and then with number 1 cap position on base lined up exactly with the sweet spot area of number 1 intake port (there is a sweet spot, not just a close enough will do thing) I could be a mile off on those measurements, Ive had some TBI issues and have CRS.... CANT REMEMBER $HIT, I will reply with correct measurements tomorrow when I go to my shop. The level of racing engines I built is nowhere near the level of stuff and competition that you have been successful in. My stuff just local dirt track and 3/8 mile asphalt, plus a few drag engines and a grip of street variations over the years. ALSO, unlike yourself, I am NOT a Race Engine Builder or a machinist. When I was a teen and early 20 yr old I worked at a machine shop only doing block prep some grunt work and other than that I can do a valve job, resurface, bore & hone, resize rods and that's about it. Nothing special but I was taught by a few of the best in our town. I wish I had stayed longer but back then I was a newbie and there wasn't enough money in it here to be able to do what I wanted but I sure wish I stayed and learned some of the other tasks like how to zero deck a block, install bronze lifter bushings and true, line bore and line hone, block fire ring installation, the art of balancing and over balancing, crankshaft indexing, grinding, polishing and balancing, plus many of the other tasks needed to build reliable competitive engines. Thanks again Brian, I am learning from EVERYTHING you've shared on your videos. -CHEERS
Thanks for sharing this tip i have never heard of anyone doing this to a stock sbc block this is why you are a great engine builder the engine has to live in order to win thanks for sharing
I thought about just drilling holes one time but I didn't. The air bleeds is a great idea. A old man that use to race around here one time told me that if he took a motor apart he would not clean the cam because I was full of oil because the cast iron would soak it up so I started soaking my cams before assembly and I don't have cam failures fo you think that really helps or am I just lucky
Thank you again Brian for some valuable information to make a motor make power and LAST… it is very expensive to replace perishable components much less entire engines after the initial investment.😳👍🙏
certainly helped me out using the Holley air bleeds. I used to get my machinist drill grub screws for similar apps. I had a straight 6 with Rhoads lifters that used to lifter clatter on start up. The pump was located in the middle of the main oil gallery. I put an oil feed from the centre to both ends so the main gallery was pressurised from three points. The clatter from startup went completely away. It helped in the whole engine to be pressurised more equal and better and never had a problem with bigends failing.
That is a great idea! I have never thought of oiling the lobes that way. For the last 25 years or so, i have grooved the lifter bores on the leading side of the lifter bores. I also have the lifters refaced to 3 degrees if the look suspect. Doing it that way i have had no failures on my small or big block chevy builds on anything from my hydraulic street cam to 650 lift solid flat tappet 7800 rpm rave engine. Mostly dirt track small blocks and a few 600 plus lift big blocks.
Thanks for all the tips and tricks you spent many years perfecting. I'll probably never use the info, but I just love thinking I'll build another motor some day.
VERY INFORMATIVE NICE WORK 😉 how ever what if drilling of set each hole aiming a little bit torwd's the direction of each lifter would that be to much added work or not ?
@@justlistening9463 it's really not necessary The lifter will be getting oil from the side and the cam lobe would be getting sprayed directly so there's not much more oil you could put on it
Wish I'd seen this before my last build 9 years ago. I'm running a Howard's solid roller 110183-10 (237/243 @ .050 w .592" with 1.6 :1) on the street. I tapped the holes between the lifters for vent tubes in the valley cause I was under the impression roller cams didn't need as much lube as flat tappets. I also added wrist-pin oilers (cause I run about 5 psi boost from an electrically driven Paxton Novi 2000 on occasion) plus one in the center gallery plug up front for the full-roller chain; and though I'm running a Melling HV shark-tooth, I'm just under 10psi oil-pressure warmed up at idle of 800 RPM. Somebody told me Smokey said 7 psi for every 1000 rpm was good and I hope so cause I don't want to wear the distributor drive gear anymore than I have to. I've had better luck with the composite gear I'm on now than the bronze. Do you think valley vents are a plus or should I have left them out for more oil on the cam? I don't think .592 is too radical with my dart II heads that have rev springs under them; and I went with the bushing lifters rather than the needle bearing ones. It'll go up to 8K without floating but I set the rev limit @ 6.5K just cause I'm paranoid.
You did your build back when zinc wasnt the big deal it is today so dont beat yourself up to much about it, those vent tubes arnt over the lobes anyway so how much lub your missing out on probly anit that much. ... The SBC in my S10 has no to near zero OP at hot idle about 32-35 on a good day (for the last 2-3 years!) when i;m snortin along , i'm pretty confident the motor is completely worn out , yet it never knocks and and when the q-jet is in tune runs pretty decent , if i had 10 psi at idle id b laughin
I`ve never seen that before(air jets) to oil lobes. Great idea. I have drilled holes abve the T/C cover, to oil cam from both ends and drilled out the main oil gallery to 1/2 inch but never thought of oiling the cam lobes directly......cool beans!
Thank you for the informative videos. For the diy guys building street engines this is invaluable. I wish someone would show stuff like this for Honda k series engines.
Thanks all the tech in this video! Fortunetly my small block Mopar has priority main oiling already. Rebuilt 4.7 bored 50 over or I wouldn't have known. Really liked a prior Cam video, looking to design a pair of dohc 4 valve heads for this thing being only sohc now. Already get 6500rpm off the current 2 valve heads so dropping the reciprocal mass of the lifters and rockers and switching to dohc should gain alot more rpm potential. Already zero decked but have to figure out what valve lengths and piston to valve clearances are needed. Cams will deff need to be custom as this engine has zero aftermarket support. Thanks again!
A nugget of Gold! Is this safe on a 4.3L V6 Chevy Vortec block? I believe there is only one galley, but not sure. This would be for a roller turbo street/strip engine.
Hello from SD. Once again thanks for the talk earlier. Im going to try and silver solider some pipes to off the OEM spray bars and directly oil the Type 2 rockers. Im going to also order rockers (finger followers) from other engines to compare
Your recommendation on a drag and drive maybe 600HP 421 Small block Chevy with a hydraulic roller cam as far as the mods you described. Thanks for the great videos!
Brian, one of the well known camshaft companies advertised a "grooving tool" that would cut ( dig, scratch) a .012" groove in the side of the lifter bore to add oil to the lobe, ahead of rotation. The tool can not be found, and several people have told me that there is a chance of cracking a cast iron block ( Ford 302). This was to aid in the supply of oil for flat tappet lifters, either solid or hydraulic. Have you seen one and what are your thoughts please.
I extensively modified my oiling system on the 355 I just built, I never considered the oilers. I'm running a roller cam. There isn't a sharp edge in or outside the block, the entire interior of the block has been polished as well, it's better than glyptol as it never flakes. I'm running a hv Sharktooth pump set to std pressure.
What are your thoughts on EDM drilled lifters putting oil right in the contact patch? Back in the early 80's we used to take a small triangular file and put a small groove in the lifter bore down towards the lobe on the "front" side of the cam rotation, a controlled leak if you will. I think they eventually made a tool to do that, we just red-necked it.
You can buy , from Comp. Cams, a solid flat tappet lifter with, i think a .012 thou.. bleed hole in it..Or Howards solid flat tappet lifters with, i think, a .022 thou. Hole. Your set up will work great with hydralics. Hope this helps.
Hey Brian great stuff I’m subscribed ! So I’ve got a 496 and was told my hi volume oil pump is gonna fill my valve covers full of oil do you ever use restrictors ? I running a Howard’s solid roller thanks 👍
@@markgiraldes4062 yes I usually use the moroso oil restrictors in the back. But it should not pump your oil pan dry. Make sure you spend some time opening up the oil drain backs. And as far as the restrictors go a 0.090 is plenty small enough. Don't go smaller than that.
@@SalterRacingEngines Thanks so much ! I almost gave up nobody seems to have anything on it Brian all’s I have for a bit is 7/64” which comes out to about .100 “ it’s gonna be a street strip car probably won’t be idling much live in a town with no stop lights except going to car show’s once in awhile maybe you should do a video on it for BBC ‘s 👍😎🇺🇸
@@SalterRacingEngines no guarantee that it will work on that application, but I thought I'd mention it. If it works, it would likely save significant time.
Mr. Salter I do not know the SBC so all I needed was a yes or know you didn't say one way or another and rewatching the video didn't help I just can't drill into my block without being specific I'm a Ford man and I'm willing to try but not without being specific thanks
@@rchardsmith605 send me your question to my email. bsalter@salterracingengines.com Try and be as detailed with your question as you can. Remember I get about 300 to 400 questions a day so let me know who you are and what you're talking about.
@@jeremymcgillis4057 I run a high volume pump if I'm using the air bleeds but if I'm just drilling behind the cam bearing I do not need a high volume pump
Excellent tips, would you perform these mods if you were running a mild cam upgrade below .450" max and still using a stock spring? The cam and lifters I'm going to install are new old stock pieces that have been sitting on a shelf over 30yrs.
Yes I want to drill every single block I get my hands on. I'm not saying it's absolutely necessary it's just what I think is best to do. It's nothing else at least drill the cam tunnels so you can lube it from both sides
Thank you it's possible he grooved it because he was using what's called a keyed lifter And that is a lifter that uses a little notch that slides up and down in that groove he cut into the lifter bore. That would be my guess I mean that's the only reason that I would do that
Hey I just hit me what you're talking about. A few people will use what's called a broaching tool to basically scratch a groove down the lifter bore to make sure oil gets to the cam lobe
BE SURE TO WATCH PART 2 OF THIS VIDEO IT WILL BE COMING OUT VERY SOON
@@SalterRacingEngines cool. Thanks!
Funny, right now i'm in the block prep stage of building a 334 small block, i'm focused on radiusing the 90* corners of the main oiling system (with some long shank burrs) at the back of the block after the pump , but you've got me thinking there's a couple more things i should be doing , tks fer the tips !
Looking forward to part 2 👍
@@luckyPiston great me too.
Now this is the kink of info no one shares with the public. Good stuff Brian!
Yeah I get off on oiling systems too definitely my kink as well😂
I love kink info!! lol
HELLO EVERYONE WE HAD A CAMERA MISHAP SOMEWHERE AROUND THE 15-MINUTE MARK SORRY ABOUT THAT BUT BASICALLY I USED THE DRILL TO TAP THE HOLE JUST BE REALLY CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO IT AND IT WILL TURN OUT FINE.
@@SalterRacingEngines I like to say thank you very much for your guidance and you are giving away a very big tip. You are giving away your experience. Thank you for your RUclips channel mate. It’s helped a lot. Cheers mate Mark from Australia.
I love these small block Chevy videos. Thank you, sir, for giving up your secrets and allowing us to learn.
Putting the oilhole in the center of my flat tappet lifters made them last probably 80%better. Lube where you need it is so valuable!
I would pay money to spend a couple days learning from you. If you ever decide to have a small scale training program about some basic modifications that you have came up with, I would be very interested. Thank you for sharing.
That would be awesome . I would pay for that
Wow thanks Brian for sharing that! I have built some championship winning engines for circle track, both dirt and asphalt back in the day up until mid 90's when we had good oils with plenty of zinc content everywhere so we never really had any cam oiling issues but we never really ran them up past 8200-8400. Only time we ever drilled into the galley was through the galley plug to deliver oil to the thrust bearing and Summers Bros gear drive setup. But, when building Pro4 2300 Ford engines with huge flat tappet cams, cam break in was a battle until GM came out with the greatest additive ever made at the time and it was simply called E.O.S, which stood for ENGINE OIL SUPPLEMENT. Lobe failures ceased to exist when we'd liberally coat the entire cam and followers with it. I bet you knew of this stuff back then, it was practically liquid ball bearings in a bottle, worked so amazing. I bought an entire pallet of the stuff because at one time we heard from a guy at the local Chevy dealership -which was the only place that stuff was available, that the EPA was getting ready to make GM pull it from the shelves. I still have maybe 1 case left floating around the shop along with a half dozen bottles with a small hole poked through the lid cap. They come in handy every so often when a friend or someone is having cam issues. On the 2.3 Ford even with lightweight springs for break in procedures it was a 50/50 chance to wipe a lobe with the bigger grinds using any of the cam break in lube compounds other than EOS. I use it on all metal on metal components on any engines I build.
I haven't looked to even see if they ever stopped making the stuff, but am going to check after I finish this comment. I highly doubt there could be anything that's ever out performed EOS but if there is, I'm sure you would know Brian. Is there something better?
This was a HUGE secret of the top engine builders back in the day in our town. I have learned a ton of stuff I thought I knew already by watching your videos and you're an awesome and honorable man for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us all.
One if these days I am thinking about making a video on how to drop a distributor ALL THE WAY in the hole fully seated on number 1 WITHOUT having to bump the engine over and it works 99.9% of the time.
I did like the fact you shared your knowledge on distributor PHASING correctly during installation, we know there's a lot of folks losing out on some performance potential by being out of phase and chasing other things trying to sort it out....great call by you to offer that during your install process video.
Looking forward to seeing and learning more from you and sharing your channel with others to help your subscriber count continue to climb.
Thank you.
-CHEERS
@@Dan-z7l2k yeah man make the video make sure to send it to me
Thank you
How about I just tell you the trick that helps and let you know that I used my homemade priming tool from an old dizzy housing and shaft, stamped a mark on it and the shaft to perfectly line up the collared pump drive slot, and used a reference point on the block (All were SBC) this was to help indicate the exact position of no 1 intake port - after some time of doing it that way it was easier with eyeball once you knew the sweet spot and could duplicate it each time, then comes the part I'm sure you already know or knew, and my mind has gone blank because it's been a minute since the last SBC I built, and I have the measurements scribed into the drawer of my toolbox but if I remember correctly without going out to the shop at about 130am, on an HEI housing, you back up the rotor position 2-5/16" from number 1 position and on the smaller base version you retard it 1-5/8" and then with number 1 cap position on base lined up exactly with the sweet spot area of number 1 intake port (there is a sweet spot, not just a close enough will do thing)
I could be a mile off on those measurements, Ive had some TBI issues and have CRS.... CANT REMEMBER $HIT, I will reply with correct measurements tomorrow when I go to my shop.
The level of racing engines I built is nowhere near the level of stuff and competition that you have been successful in. My stuff just local dirt track and 3/8 mile asphalt, plus a few drag engines and a grip of street variations over the years.
ALSO, unlike yourself, I am NOT a Race Engine Builder or a machinist.
When I was a teen and early 20 yr old I worked at a machine shop only doing block prep some grunt work and other than that I can do a valve job, resurface, bore & hone, resize rods and that's about it.
Nothing special but I was taught by a few of the best in our town. I wish I had stayed longer but back then I was a newbie and there wasn't enough money in it here to be able to do what I wanted but I sure wish I stayed and learned some of the other tasks like how to zero deck a block, install bronze lifter bushings and true, line bore and line hone, block fire ring installation, the art of balancing and over balancing, crankshaft indexing, grinding, polishing and balancing, plus many of the other tasks needed to build reliable competitive engines.
Thanks again Brian, I am learning from EVERYTHING you've shared on your videos.
-CHEERS
Great information!! Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this tip i have never heard of anyone doing this to a stock sbc block this is why you are a great engine builder the engine has to live in order to win thanks for sharing
A little oil on your drill bit would hit
Best educational video ever
Those two mods really make sense! Thanks for sharing😊
Tip from old carby guy, start the jets with a wooden/bamboo skewer, no grease and no mess.
@@johnlynch3124 block hasn't been washed yet and they would be took back out so it's not a big deal. Was just doing this to show people how it's done
Hello From Australia, a little while back I was told you were a great engine builder. Many Regards From Down Under.
Thats a great idea brian .theres flat tappet failures everywere across the world.thanks for the info to help solve this big problem
I thought about just drilling holes one time but I didn't. The air bleeds is a great idea. A old man that use to race around here one time told me that if he took a motor apart he would not clean the cam because I was full of oil because the cast iron would soak it up so I started soaking my cams before assembly and I don't have cam failures fo you think that really helps or am I just lucky
Thank you for sharing this. Not all HP machine shops know this or are willing to share. Looking forward to your next video.
Great tips there... The NASCAR engine world are the Kings of Oiling...
Dude! Digging the channel Brian, keep it up!
Awesome Content
Appreciate you sharing these gold nuggets of knowledge
Thank you again Brian for some valuable information to make a motor make power and LAST… it is very expensive to replace perishable components much less entire engines after the initial investment.😳👍🙏
This is very good info. Thank you for all these videos
certainly helped me out using the Holley air bleeds. I used to get my machinist drill grub screws for similar apps. I had a straight 6 with Rhoads lifters that used to lifter clatter on start up. The pump was located in the middle of the main oil gallery. I put an oil feed from the centre to both ends so the main gallery was pressurised from three points. The clatter from startup went completely away. It helped in the whole engine to be pressurised more equal and better and never had a problem with bigends failing.
That is a great idea! I have never thought of oiling the lobes that way. For the last 25 years or so, i have grooved the lifter bores on the leading side of the lifter bores. I also have the lifters refaced to 3 degrees if the look suspect. Doing it that way i have had no failures on my small or big block chevy builds on anything from my hydraulic street cam to 650 lift solid flat tappet 7800 rpm rave engine. Mostly dirt track small blocks and a few 600 plus lift big blocks.
Thanks for all the tips and tricks you spent many years perfecting. I'll probably never use the info, but I just love thinking I'll build another motor some day.
Great information. The extra oil both provides generous lube and dissipates heat from the cam and lifter. Thanks for sharing
🤙Thx for the great tips and tricks! AND Thx Brian for sharing..... 🏁🏁
VERY INFORMATIVE NICE WORK 😉
how ever what if drilling of set each hole aiming a little bit torwd's the direction of each lifter would that be to much added work or not ?
@@justlistening9463 it's really not necessary
The lifter will be getting oil from the side and the cam lobe would be getting sprayed directly so there's not much more oil you could put on it
Never saw anything like that. Brilliant! Thank you.
Wish I'd seen this before my last build 9 years ago. I'm running a Howard's solid roller 110183-10 (237/243 @ .050 w .592" with 1.6 :1) on the street. I tapped the holes between the lifters for vent tubes in the valley cause I was under the impression roller cams didn't need as much lube as flat tappets. I also added wrist-pin oilers (cause I run about 5 psi boost from an electrically driven Paxton Novi 2000 on occasion) plus one in the center gallery plug up front for the full-roller chain; and though I'm running a Melling HV shark-tooth, I'm just under 10psi oil-pressure warmed up at idle of 800 RPM. Somebody told me Smokey said 7 psi for every 1000 rpm was good and I hope so cause I don't want to wear the distributor drive gear anymore than I have to. I've had better luck with the composite gear I'm on now than the bronze. Do you think valley vents are a plus or should I have left them out for more oil on the cam? I don't think .592 is too radical with my dart II heads that have rev springs under them; and I went with the bushing lifters rather than the needle bearing ones. It'll go up to 8K without floating but I set the rev limit @ 6.5K just cause I'm paranoid.
You did your build back when zinc wasnt the big deal it is today so dont beat yourself up to much about it, those vent tubes arnt over the lobes anyway so how much lub your missing out on probly anit that much. ... The SBC in my S10 has no to near zero OP at hot idle about 32-35 on a good day (for the last 2-3 years!) when i;m snortin along , i'm pretty confident the motor is completely worn out , yet it never knocks and and when the q-jet is in tune runs pretty decent , if i had 10 psi at idle id b laughin
Thanks Brian.
New to the channel good job!!!
I`ve never seen that before(air jets) to oil lobes. Great idea. I have drilled holes abve the T/C cover, to oil cam from both ends and drilled out the main oil gallery to 1/2 inch but never thought of oiling the cam lobes directly......cool beans!
Thank you for the informative videos. For the diy guys building street engines this is invaluable. I wish someone would show stuff like this for Honda k series engines.
GREAT ADVICE, THANKS SO MUCH
Another great video I know the Ford 302 have the same plugs in the front of the motor same principle right definitely enjoy this knowledge
Great video, I will be doing this. I always grind a slot in lifter for better oiling.
Great job Bryan again.Thanks for your help.Your videos are appreciated
Great info Brian, always looking for more.
Thanks
Thanks all the tech in this video! Fortunetly my small block Mopar has priority main oiling already. Rebuilt 4.7 bored 50 over or I wouldn't have known. Really liked a prior Cam video, looking to design a pair of dohc 4 valve heads for this thing being only sohc now. Already get 6500rpm off the current 2 valve heads so dropping the reciprocal mass of the lifters and rockers and switching to dohc should gain alot more rpm potential. Already zero decked but have to figure out what valve lengths and piston to valve clearances are needed.
Cams will deff need to be custom as this engine has zero aftermarket support. Thanks again!
@@ryandeweese363 priority main oiling does not lube the cam lobes. So you still make consider doing this
A nugget of Gold! Is this safe on a 4.3L V6 Chevy Vortec block? I believe there is only one galley, but not sure. This would be for a roller turbo street/strip engine.
Thankyou heaps for sharing your knowledge . Very much appreciated . Hi from Australia 👋
What a brilliant video! Excellent camera work too! Thanks for sharing this!
Great information.. Thanks
Excellent advice, does that apply to big blocks as well? Big blocks are notoriously hard on flat tappet cams.
Love these tips and tricks, even if it is for a sbc. Would love to see some sbf stuff as well if you mess with them.
Hello from SD. Once again thanks for the talk earlier. Im going to try and silver solider some pipes to off the OEM spray bars and directly oil the Type 2 rockers. Im going to also order rockers (finger followers) from other engines to compare
Very cool.
Excellent info, Brian. Thanks for sharing!!
Never seen that before pretty neat tip.
Great information thank you
Thank you for this info!!!!!
Your recommendation on a drag and drive maybe 600HP 421 Small block Chevy with a hydraulic roller cam as far as the mods you described. Thanks for the great videos!
I love this kind of info. Thanks man.👍
Fantastic idea for sure !👍great tip will definitely try it out
Does this work on Chevy Big blocks?
Thank you for your service
Brian, one of the well known camshaft companies advertised a "grooving tool" that would cut ( dig, scratch) a .012" groove in the side of the lifter bore to add oil to the lobe, ahead of rotation. The tool can not be found, and several people have told me that there is a chance of cracking a cast iron block ( Ford 302). This was to aid in the supply of oil for flat tappet lifters, either solid or hydraulic. Have you seen one and what are your thoughts please.
Yes basically it's a broaching tool. All you doing is just barely touching it you don't need a deep groove in like a broaching tool is capable of.
nice work thanks for the great videos
Great tip Brian,appreciate ya brother
Machinery's handbook, Speeds and Feeds!!
I extensively modified my oiling system on the 355 I just built, I never considered the oilers. I'm running a roller cam.
There isn't a sharp edge in or outside the block, the entire interior of the block has been polished as well, it's better than glyptol as it never flakes. I'm running a hv Sharktooth pump set to std pressure.
Great Tip
How might you go about this with an LS style engine without the center oil galley!?
Sometimes I will use -4 hoses and just go about it a different way
Thanks Brian, useful information, appreciate it.
wow!! great content
Comp cams has a kit that puts a groove in the lifter bore along side the lifter. Their kit works well also.
Awesome mod to the sbc, a new one I've seen. Do you have any of same tricks for an LS based eninge?
I appreciate the videos..
super cool man !!
Thanks, buddy
Nice video and thank you.
Will this work on any Big Block Chevy❓
Wow I really like that one. I like my motors to last.
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
What are your thoughts on EDM drilled lifters putting oil right in the contact patch? Back in the early 80's we used to take a small triangular file and put a small groove in the lifter bore down towards the lobe on the "front" side of the cam rotation, a controlled leak if you will. I think they eventually made a tool to do that, we just red-necked it.
@@markg1247 yes I highly recommend EDM lifters
Thanks Brian awsome content
You can buy , from Comp. Cams, a solid flat tappet lifter with, i think a .012 thou.. bleed hole in it..Or Howards solid flat tappet lifters with, i think, a .022 thou. Hole. Your set up will work great with hydralics. Hope this helps.
Yes those are called EDM lifters I talked about them in my other video and even this video thanks for the comment
Awesome info nice tip thanks
Great tips, thanks!
Hey Brian great stuff I’m subscribed ! So I’ve got a 496 and was told my hi volume oil pump is gonna fill my valve covers full of oil do you ever use restrictors ? I running a Howard’s solid roller thanks 👍
@@markgiraldes4062 yes I usually use the moroso oil restrictors in the back. But it should not pump your oil pan dry.
Make sure you spend some time opening up the oil drain backs. And as far as the restrictors go a 0.090 is plenty small enough. Don't go smaller than that.
@@SalterRacingEngines Thanks so much ! I almost gave up nobody seems to have anything on it Brian all’s I have for a bit is 7/64” which comes out to about .100 “ it’s gonna be a street strip car probably won’t be idling much live in a town with no stop lights except going to car show’s once in awhile maybe you should do a video on it for BBC ‘s 👍😎🇺🇸
And dont forget that on a wet sump it is also important to make sure the extra flow to the top end can drain properly back to the pan.👍
GreenLee makes a self tapping drill bit set that has the 6-32 bit in it.
@@FiteTheGoodFight oh that's pretty cool
I was laughing at my drill chuck that thing was wore out. Lol
@@SalterRacingEngines no guarantee that it will work on that application, but I thought I'd mention it. If it works, it would likely save significant time.
Good stuff!
Mr. Salter I do not know the SBC so all I needed was a yes or know you didn't say one way or another and rewatching the video didn't help I just can't drill into my block without being specific I'm a Ford man and I'm willing to try but not without being specific thanks
@@rchardsmith605 send me your question to my email.
bsalter@salterracingengines.com
Try and be as detailed with your question as you can. Remember I get about 300 to 400 questions a day so let me know who you are and what you're talking about.
Too good!!!!
im going to try it on my next block
Does this same piling trick work on Ford's ???
@@rchardsmith605 yes
have you ever opened up the oil galleries for more oil flow ? (I sold my last 67 Chevelle in 1996 but its always nice to learn new things)
Yes
Thanks for sharing
Thanks
Thank you sir that was so very kind I really appreciate it
thank you for your service. your thinking is OUTSIDE of the box
Do you need a high volume pump when you make those oiling changes?
@@jeremymcgillis4057 I run a high volume pump if I'm using the air bleeds but if I'm just drilling behind the cam bearing I do not need a high volume pump
What are your thoughs on Comp Cams lifter grooving tool for oiling the lobe?
@@pontiac411 I think if you do it correctly it's a great idea
Excellent tips, would you perform these mods if you were running a mild cam upgrade below .450" max and still using a stock spring? The cam and lifters I'm going to install are new old stock pieces that have been sitting on a shelf over 30yrs.
Yes I want to drill every single block I get my hands on. I'm not saying it's absolutely necessary it's just what I think is best to do. It's nothing else at least drill the cam tunnels so you can lube it from both sides
@SalterRacingEngines sounds good, thank you and take care...
Would this work for Cleveland engines aswell?
Pretty much everyone only shows Chevy stuff
Nice!
great info the cam turns half the rpm the crank does at 8 thousend the cam turns 4 thousend not info for you but for the viewers.
I aint gonna lie i still get a little nervous any time i power tap anything😂
Brian I seen a video short where a guy put small groove in each lifter bore...what do you think? Like your idea..Thanks
Thank you it's possible he grooved it because he was using what's called a keyed lifter
And that is a lifter that uses a little notch that slides up and down in that groove he cut into the lifter bore.
That would be my guess I mean that's the only reason that I would do that
Hey I just hit me what you're talking about. A few people will use what's called a broaching tool to basically scratch a groove down the lifter bore to make sure oil gets to the cam lobe
Hey Brian, could you just use a 0.020 drill bit?
Thanks Brian, that's great info for any flat tappet guy. Subscribe guys, it costs you 0 and helps get the video out to more people....
Thank you, that was very informative, I'll be looking forward to trying this on my next build. 👍👍🤏