THERE ARE SOME PEOPLE ON HERE THAT THINK THIS IS GOING TO DROP COMPRESSION. FIRST OF ALL I AM A PROFESSIONAL ENGINE BUILDER DO YOU NOT THINK THAT WE TAKE THAT INTO ACCOUNT? BOTH VALVE POCKETS INCLUDING INTAKE AND EXHAUST ARE ABOUT 5 CCS OF VOLUME. SO HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK LAYING BACK THAT EYEBROW IS ACTUALLY GOING TO TAKE AWAY. AND EVEN IF IT DID DROP COMPRESSION I WOULD SIMPLY CORRECT FOR IT BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT WE DO. SO PLEASE STOP SAYING THAT.
@SalterRacingEngines - Hey Brian, just remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid people and some of them will go to great lengths to show you just how stupid they are (and some are just trolls).
@@Faolan161 Gave you a thumbs up as this is exactly my thoughts/experience on this process Faolan! Your last paragraph nicely sums it up. Unshroud the valves at the combustion chamber, not the piston. This is like "gasket matching" the intake ports to the cylinder head ports....a definite "No No".... but recommend it to your competitors! What is not mentioned in this video is the factory engineered valve angles located/machined into the cylinder heads. Example: SBC's are 23 degrees, SB Mopar's are 18 degrees. That 5 degree difference gives a straighter intake shot into the cylinder in a Mopar vs the Chevy. Unmodified and all things being equal (IE: 2.02 int. diam. /1.60 exh. diam.), this "18" degree angle generates more flow per inch of camshaft/valve lift. Modify the seat/back cut angles of the exhaust valve and create better cylinder scavaging like the late Joe Mondelo used to state in his tech articles. What he wrote about was ALWAYS TESTED on flow benches and the dyno's!! Valve seat grinds & valve angles are where the greatest flow increases will be found. Like you said...FWIW!
I never thought there would be a time whereby a professional engine builder would be willing to share their craft with the world. I've learned so much from you and so appreciate your commitment to doing this!
Thank you for your awesome helpful detailed tips and info, Mr. Brian 🧐👍 I'd love to massage the intake valve reliefs on my 4.600" BBC flat top pistons for a pair of NA 565cid 9.5 comp ratio offshore marine engines that I have for my little 40' offshore puddle jumper that I run out on Lake Michigan. I enjoy finding cool trick advantages to give my boat a little more kick. 👍
Not just kick, but also the reliability , especially out in the water or Air like double redundancy with ignition coils and backup electric fuel pump😅✌️☝️💎⚡💥🇺🇲
Brian, I have been around stuff like this since I was 10 years old. I'm now 68. No one knows how valuable your knowledge is more than me. What's your showing people? You could actually get thousands of dollars for it's wonderful that you're helping people out on this site. What you do is amazing taking your time to do it. Thank you.
2 месяца назад+18
That makes all the sense in the world. A whole third of that intake valve was completely shrouded by that pocket.
I just did this (and got the head decked) to my head and piston on my single cylinder pushrod cg250 motorcycle. The difference is absolutely AMAZING! Throttle response and torque is night and day! I didn't think it would make such a big difference on my simple little low tech engine. Gonna do a re-jet tomorrow. I hope no one here in Jamaica watches this video. Not for a while at least. Definitely subscribed!✊🏾🇯🇲
I wish I had found you when I had my 350 torn apart. Seeing your motor build, makes me want to yank it back out and get it straight. I've learned more watching your videos than listening to any other video. Thanks for sharing Larry.
I have been “piston porting” for a long time. Simply because I had read about it. But I didn’t have any idea it could be that much cfm. But it would be in the low lift area and that’s always good. Thanks for the video. Good stuff.
Hey Brian, Tim here, some sofa guru is gonna ask about affecting Comp ratio.....pls, he removed .03 cc if that......point is moot....GAINS are SPECTACULAR!!......you ARE beginning to share some secrets....the thrust bearing trick, is something I will do from now on!!...regardless of engine....it dont matter....TY sir yet AGAIN!!!!!...I'm a dry sponge, and I'm soaking up ur ideas...I'm SUPER diggin it!!😊
You are well worth investing a motor build in, by far .The feeling you give off ,is you do seem to really care about your work, your craft as it is said .Sincerely well illustrated and shown Sincerely from Down under
All of us here absolutely appreciate your videos & efforts. It takes time for a chamnel to grow, but it will definitely happen with the content you put out. Thank you for another informative video.
This is something I have been doing forever on my 4 valve per cyl. engines. So nice to see a fellow builder explaining everything I think about in such a concise way. Thanks for the great video.
50 year mechanic, engine builder. Foreign and domestic. This is what you call hot rod room. It's what you open your mind to from fellow mechanics over the years. You can never know everything and you can't trust parts manufacturers. Nor automobile manufacturers. They both most of the the time depending?. Leave us smaller guys of what's called HOT ROD ROOM. It's a beautiful thing! Lol
I surf the internet with two monitors. When I see a video that I'm interested in, I'll slide it to the second monitor and listen while still on the main monitor. If something rings my ears, I pay attention to the second monitor to see what it is. Most of the stuff I watch from other so-called engine builders (most are good though) trying to make a buck or two. This video got my complete attention from start to finish. Very few videos can do that. Thanks Brian
Mr Sauter I’d like to hear you talk about offset cylinder boring. From what I understand for big$ circle track engines they’d offset bore the cylinders which trick the Compression rule how ever makes more compression ?? ?? Not 100% why that was so special but that’s why I’m asking u. Thanks for putting out some 🤫 engine builder tricks very interesting to know about them . Hope alls well god bless 🙏🏻
Just bought a set of Bullets for a build and they have a really nice radius at the top of the notches. Never thought about it unshrouding the valves. Thank you!
Have used model airplane tubing for the same thing Brian. One more tidbit. Have you tried what we called a Prop-Cut on the top of the piston dome and blend the quench pad above the exhaust section. We had a tracer back then follow a model we made. What the dome profile looked like was this : the dome was packed on the intake side into the chamber. After that side was sensible, the dome sloped away towards the exhaust side to where the chamber to the dome was not crowded. @ an open cavity. Beyond the dome you see the exhaust relief which, depending on the engine design, there is a portion of that edge that most of us blend back ; well, there is a dip into the quench pad, maybe, a half an inch. Your quench at the ring land was left for support. This depression is say, 3/4"wide. What we were looking for back then was to cover the dome in color. It took a good season of Drag Racing to get there with the SB Chev and Boss Ford. I'm just throwing this away as my career is over and someone might just look at the combustion process a little differently.
So after doing my first engine build and it being an overwhelming success and finding more and more fantastic information I had to go get another engine to build. I think I might be addicted
I recently just did this to my engine, but it was so I could fit a 2.02 valve, but that’s what I did. My ptv clearance was close radially so I did exactly this. I even on did it with the pistons in the block. Worked great.
Great Video as always! I use Waxcut Stick Wax when cutting aluminum. AGS "Cut-Ease" is really good--same goes for Castrol. Even institutional paste wax for floors, or Carnuba car wax works quite well at preventing clogging with aluminum. Paste Wax+WD-40 works well on the Bridgeport for rapid milling as well--put it on with a brush while cutting.
Now that makes a lot of sense. The head may flow like gangbusters on a flow bench with no piston valve relief in the way. Put a wall around a large portion of your valve and low lift numbers will be severely reduced. Just shows you've got to be a thinker. Thanks a million. Great information. And it helps everyone to never stop thinking about what is actually happening.
Thanks Brian. I’m getting ready to put together an 83mm Yamaha FJ based engine for the dragstrip. I’ll make damn sure my pistons are relieved like you illustrated.
The piston IS the other side of the combustion chamber. Also if the you are going beyong factory designs, bias the majority of the compressed gasses to the exhaust side and tighten up on the intake side. The incoming fuel/air charge will help remove some more of the heat from the exhaust valves and atomize fuel better requiring less ignition timing. This is especially helpful with pent roof four valve chambers.
I sure would love to have you do the machine work on my hemi , I love the work you do and I think it’s great you share some of your knowledge with folks
Thanks for the great information again. At the end of today's Watch Wes Work video he has an engineering question about the effect piston weight on HP and torque, in case you're interested.
Another JOE secret that the magazine copy cats didn't know when building. They usually insisted that his power numbers were exaggerated. JOE was not only a great builder but also a really good guy. 😎
I wonder if Brian has investigated dimpled pistons. For diesels they do amazing things. The technique was started by a guy that did Indian motorcycle pistons and I hear he still does. A company in Nevada , Speed of Air, has been spearheading this.
Either Jim McFarland or his brother of magazine fame has a patent on dimples from @ 40 yrs ago. One piston company made them for a while. Kinda didnt catch on, like the Singh Grooves idea. (that my friend did back in '62-3) It works.😎
@@hotrodray6802 UEM pistons in conjunction with SOA is producing pistons for popular diesels used in pick up trucks and also LS engines. They come as a kit.
GREAT video,this are the best HOT RODDING tips,that are being lost.this is the way i used to do stuff.I had a job where i had access to a CNC mill.And while you could do this on it,it real hard to do without a 5 axis head unit.95% of guys did it this way.I prefer to use hand hand tools,but your right about carbide burrs,GO EASY and really grip it,cause if it bites>>haha that cutter really moves fast.Looking forward to watch more of your stuff. thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great video. Porting my own heads opened my eyes to the air's point of view. Man, I'm trying to figure out if you are gifted in thermodynamics or old fashion American common sense. As you explain it, it just makes sense.
The Straw trick on the Burr is a good tip--A Bic pen body is almost exactly 1/4" I.D. and it works well as sleeve for stabilizing the cut on a long shank burr--lube it up good and you can hold it between your fingers and thumb, or just use it like a guard same as the straw.
I have those same calipers. It was in my father’s stuff when he passed away early this year. He was a machinist/engineer he put together printing presses and maintain it.
When you mentioned this on the other video I was looking more on stopping the detonation side of it because of the sharp edges that can get pretty hot didn't know the cfm side flow it.
You do a great job! Hell, I like your camera work. I don’t necessarily use all your advanced work for my street engines, but your detail and knowledge helps a whole lot. My latest big block is my best effort so far.
Great vid. Have you done any studies on the influence of exhaust scavenging and the valve relief between the valves? I imagine that quench mixing might be improved by what you have done as well.
Reshaping valve reliefs Lost art , a lot of people in the G3 hemi world will not run Dome pistons, main reason is most don't understand the idea of form fitting them to the chamber and knocking down the sharp edge(s) where the valve reliefs are. Truly appreciate your time, I know it's not a quick and easy thing to do (making these videos)
A leather compass would work well for making that radius mark instead of calipers. They are metal tip on both side and lock to a radius with a screw. Bought cheap on Amazon and you can Sharpen the tip you would scribe with many times on a bench grinder, table sander, a file etc.
I've never done a engine with such deep pockets in the pistons but I do relieve it in the combustion chambers and relieve the edges of the chamber right out to where the edge of the bore will mate up to it.
LOVE THIS VIDEO! Teaching technique and purpose and method! Awesome... First thing I did was pull up pictures of my Wiseco pistons that I am using in the 4.3L V6 odd-fire build. I want to go down to my machinist and see if we can do this. I would do it myself in my garage with similar tools. I would even place it on the scale and watch the weight as material left the piston. OCD!!! Please keep doing these. Thanks Brian! 🤓
Awesome! I will do that at .1505 like on your caliper? Get all the pistons angles the same. I will watch it again, if I missed something on the angle. Some of DV’s videos I have watched 4 times, have three of his books, read them three times and I have still learned a few additional moves from other engineers. I have a ton of questions.
Thank you for the good video would it be possible for u to make a video on what position to degree in a cam my thoughts r to use valve events and target a dynamic compression ratio am I correct to do it this way thank you
IMO each specific engine needs to be dyno run with different degree-in cam specs to determine exactly what that specific combination likes. But $$$ dyno.... So we give it our best guess. 😁 Then the timing set wears/stretches and retards it 1-2-3* 🙄
Awesome info as always. Between you, Vizard, Powell, Weingartner, and many others, I should be stupid smart. Thanks for doing what you do. Only question I have is what made you decide on the .150 measurement? Is that just experience, or is there a formula. I'm all about some formula's now.
@@jeffwooton7138 no formulas it's just when you lock it up to the particular cylinder head that's what it took to get the unshrouding effect that I wanted it could take more or it could take less depending on the cylinder head you're using
The trade off that I see is that you lose a slight amount of compression. Does the 5 cfm flow increase off-set this loss or do you manage to pick up the compression in other ways? Thanks for sharing your experience and showing us your thought process.
+3-5 CFM when the piston passes TDC+ and the valve is close makes a difference in power... More early filling. Remember the opening valve is chasing the piston. 1 cc loss is easily recovered with head milling or thinner gasket.
You got a steady hand! I was wondering if you CC the piston before and after to calculate compression loss, or isn't it enough to worry about? Thanks for a great video.
@@427_FE I used to but I've done it so much now it's just not even that measurable but when I started doing it 30 years ago which was the first time I ever tried it yeah they weren't the same I had to work on that
great stuff brian, i use the fine diamond encrusted style burr with wd40 nylon tubing (air hose) just checked a set of cp bullet pistons i have , they have the blending as std.
Get a greasetube-sized "Slick-stick" and use a tiny TINY glop on burrs, drills, flapper wheels and grinding wheels. (Buy it from the manufacturer. Cheaper than Glamazon.) A tube will last YEARS in a decent sized operation. Flapper wheels, grinder wheels and burrs will not plug up with aluminum and they will eat product at an alarming rate, so go slowly when you start out. For drills, just start the hole and dip the tip in the tube. Melts easy, so store away from sunlight/heat. Prepare to be amazed.
Everyone worried about compression loss. Well if it was all about compression and no extra valve lift or no air flow modifications then you just have your stock engine. This is about air flow and pockets are deeper because of more valve lift for more volume of air to fill cylinder. Have to look at the big picture if you flow more air add more fuel and make more horsepower when finally tuned
I would be interested in flow numbers and the change in static compression from unshrouding the valve reliefs.Does the better flow outweigh the loss in cylinder volume? I know it's very minor but it's still lowering compression.
Hey Brian, plastics straws have been outlawed here, would paper straws work😂 What piston coating(s) do you use? I like the theory behind the Line2Line coating (Abradable Powder Coating). Have you heard of any coating that is applied to the side of the piston above the top ring land, to minimize that dead space that traps exhaust gasses? Thank you for posting!!!!!
@@ts302 I've used calico for 25 years and Jason line is new to the coating business I mean relatively new but he has some really great ideas and from what I hear some really great coatings. My advice would be to talk to them on that. Yes we do sometimes use coatings in the ring lands especially for some boosted applications and heavy nitrous stuff.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
THERE ARE SOME PEOPLE ON HERE THAT THINK THIS IS GOING TO DROP COMPRESSION. FIRST OF ALL I AM A PROFESSIONAL ENGINE BUILDER DO YOU NOT THINK THAT WE TAKE THAT INTO ACCOUNT?
BOTH VALVE POCKETS INCLUDING INTAKE AND EXHAUST ARE ABOUT 5 CCS OF VOLUME. SO HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK LAYING BACK THAT EYEBROW IS ACTUALLY GOING TO TAKE AWAY. AND EVEN IF IT DID DROP COMPRESSION I WOULD SIMPLY CORRECT FOR IT BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT WE DO. SO PLEASE STOP SAYING THAT.
You can’t teach a man anything that thinks he knows it already . People are mind warped .
Thanks again I never thought about that.
@SalterRacingEngines - Hey Brian, just remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid people and some of them will go to great lengths to show you just how stupid they are (and some are just trolls).
Sounds about right with me doing that is losing some compression which is power.
@@Faolan161 Gave you a thumbs up as this is exactly my thoughts/experience on this process Faolan! Your last paragraph nicely sums it up. Unshroud the valves at the combustion chamber, not the piston. This is like "gasket matching" the intake ports to the cylinder head ports....a definite "No No".... but recommend it to your competitors!
What is not mentioned in this video is the factory engineered valve angles located/machined into the cylinder heads.
Example: SBC's are 23 degrees, SB Mopar's are 18 degrees. That 5 degree difference gives a straighter intake shot into the cylinder in a Mopar vs the Chevy. Unmodified and all things being equal (IE: 2.02 int. diam. /1.60 exh. diam.), this "18" degree angle generates more flow per inch of camshaft/valve lift. Modify the seat/back cut angles of the exhaust valve and create better cylinder scavaging like the late Joe Mondelo used to state in his tech articles. What he wrote about was ALWAYS TESTED on flow benches and the dyno's!! Valve seat grinds & valve angles are where the greatest flow increases will be found. Like you said...FWIW!
Making these videos is time consuming and difficult to do alone. Your effort is very much appreciated.
Very much time consuming lol.
Thank you so much I learn something new every time .
That straw trick was worth it all for myself.
It’s the simple things.
Thank you so much Mr. Salter!
I’ve never given piston valve reliefs a second thought. You’re sharing tricks that nobody else is telling and it’s much appreciated.
I use a Harbor Freight buffing wheel to prep valve reliefs.
Got a video of the results.
I never thought there would be a time whereby a professional engine builder would be willing to share their craft with the world. I've learned so much from you and so appreciate your commitment to doing this!
Thank you for your awesome helpful detailed tips and info, Mr. Brian 🧐👍
I'd love to massage the intake valve reliefs on my 4.600" BBC flat top pistons for a pair of NA 565cid 9.5 comp ratio offshore marine engines that I have for my little 40' offshore puddle jumper that I run out on Lake Michigan.
I enjoy finding cool trick advantages to give my boat a little more kick. 👍
Brian...do you mind sharing with us your best practice for cleaning carbon off of pistons/combustion chamber? Thank you.
Not just kick, but also the reliability , especially out in the water or Air like double redundancy with ignition coils and backup electric fuel pump😅✌️☝️💎⚡💥🇺🇲
I use 1/4" teflon tubing to cover the shanks on my carbides. It takes the abuse and doesn't leave a mark. Available at Lowes by the roll.
Not many successful engine builders are willing to share there build secrets. Thank you for the knowledge!
Brian, I have been around stuff like this since I was 10 years old. I'm now 68. No one knows how valuable your knowledge is more than me. What's your showing people? You could actually get thousands of dollars for it's wonderful that you're helping people out on this site. What you do is amazing taking your time to do it. Thank you.
That makes all the sense in the world. A whole third of that intake valve was completely shrouded by that pocket.
I just did this (and got the head decked) to my head and piston on my single cylinder pushrod cg250 motorcycle. The difference is absolutely AMAZING! Throttle response and torque is night and day! I didn't think it would make such a big difference on my simple little low tech engine. Gonna do a re-jet tomorrow. I hope no one here in Jamaica watches this video. Not for a while at least. Definitely subscribed!✊🏾🇯🇲
I wish I had found you when I had my 350 torn apart. Seeing your motor build, makes me want to yank it back out and get it straight. I've learned more watching your videos than listening to any other video. Thanks for sharing Larry.
I have been “piston porting” for a long time. Simply because I had read about it. But I didn’t have any idea it could be that much cfm. But it would be in the low lift area and that’s always good. Thanks for the video. Good stuff.
Hey Brian,
Tim here, some sofa guru is gonna ask about affecting Comp ratio.....pls, he removed .03 cc if that......point is moot....GAINS are SPECTACULAR!!......you ARE beginning to share some secrets....the thrust bearing trick, is something I will do from now on!!...regardless of engine....it dont matter....TY sir yet AGAIN!!!!!...I'm a dry sponge, and I'm soaking up ur ideas...I'm SUPER diggin it!!😊
You are well worth investing a motor build in, by far .The feeling you give off ,is you do seem to really care about your work, your craft as it is said .Sincerely well illustrated and shown Sincerely from Down under
This man is ALL IN !!!
His heart beats on 8 cylinders 😅
All of us here absolutely appreciate your videos & efforts. It takes time for a chamnel to grow, but it will definitely happen with the content you put out. Thank you for another informative video.
Little details attention makes all the difference
That's what makes engines so special to the builder
Great channel and content
This is something I have been doing forever on my 4 valve per cyl. engines. So nice to see a fellow builder explaining everything I think about in such a concise way. Thanks for the great video.
Scribing.... sometimes an old school plastic circle template for drafting is a very handy tool.
Ok, ive watched a couple videos of yours now. I have come to a conclusion! You are worthy & i have now subscribed.
I always rounded of the edges. But now I know learning from you I should work on the intake pocket. THANKS!
This will be very helpful on my 461 Pontiac build, anything I can do to hold down Detonation on a street engine running pump gas is huge
50 year mechanic, engine builder. Foreign and domestic. This is what you call hot rod room. It's what you open your mind to from fellow mechanics over the years. You can never know everything and you can't trust parts manufacturers. Nor automobile manufacturers. They both most of the the time depending?. Leave us smaller guys of what's called HOT ROD ROOM. It's a beautiful thing! Lol
What a great tip, which I’ve never seen anyone else show. Thank you
I surf the internet with two monitors. When I see a video that I'm interested in, I'll slide it to the second monitor and listen while still on the main monitor. If something rings my ears, I pay attention to the second monitor to see what it is. Most of the stuff I watch from other so-called engine builders (most are good though) trying to make a buck or two. This video got my complete attention from start to finish. Very few videos can do that. Thanks Brian
Another great and informative video!!! Thank you, and please don't stop!!!
Mr Sauter I’d like to hear you talk about offset cylinder boring. From what I understand for big$ circle track engines they’d offset bore the cylinders which trick the Compression rule how ever makes more compression ?? ?? Not 100% why that was so special but that’s why I’m asking u. Thanks for putting out some 🤫 engine builder tricks very interesting to know about them . Hope alls well god bless 🙏🏻
Just bought a set of Bullets for a build and they have a really nice radius at the top of the notches. Never thought about it unshrouding the valves. Thank you!
Those straws also work like a guide handle you could hold the stem and tool that way for stability when not so deep in the ports
Thanks Brian, this is a great tech class for a lot of us!! Really appreciate you showing us this stuff!!
Have used model airplane tubing for the same thing Brian. One more tidbit.
Have you tried what we called a Prop-Cut on the top of the piston dome and blend the quench pad above the exhaust section.
We had a tracer back then follow a model we made. What the dome profile looked like was this : the dome was packed on the intake side into the chamber. After that side was sensible, the dome sloped away towards the exhaust side to where the chamber to the dome was not crowded. @ an open cavity. Beyond the dome you see the exhaust relief which, depending on the engine design, there is a portion of that edge that most of us blend back ; well, there is a dip into the quench pad, maybe, a half an inch. Your quench at the ring land was left for support. This depression is say, 3/4"wide.
What we were looking for back then was to cover the dome in color. It took a good season of Drag Racing to get there with the SB Chev and Boss Ford.
I'm just throwing this away as my career is over and someone might just look at the combustion process a little differently.
Sometimes the simplest ideas are the ones that most don’t think about and have the best effect. Thanks for this, I will put it in my ToDo list
makes perfect sense. the only work i was familiar with was removing sharp edges so now thats another fine trick i want to try now, thanks.
I love these videos for their no nonsense content. Just the right stuff 🤜🤛
So after doing my first engine build and it being an overwhelming success and finding more and more fantastic information I had to go get another engine to build. I think I might be addicted
I recently just did this to my engine, but it was so I could fit a 2.02 valve, but that’s what I did. My ptv clearance was close radially so I did exactly this. I even on did it with the pistons in the block. Worked great.
Great info as always from Salter! Great timing also as I’m preparing a set of pistons before I get them coated.
I agree. I consider the valve pocket to be part of the intake (or exhaust) port
Beautiful work, much better than I could do!
I don’t like harsh edges on any combustion face of the piston. Great video!
Great Video as always! I use Waxcut Stick Wax when cutting aluminum. AGS "Cut-Ease" is really good--same goes for Castrol. Even institutional paste wax for floors, or Carnuba car wax works quite well at preventing clogging with aluminum. Paste Wax+WD-40 works well on the Bridgeport for rapid milling as well--put it on with a brush while cutting.
Hey you make great easy to watch and understand videos, so thank you 👍
Absolute legend mate, thanks for sharing this! Hi from Australia 🇦🇺
Now that makes a lot of sense. The head may flow like gangbusters on a flow bench with no piston valve relief in the way.
Put a wall around a large portion of your valve and low lift numbers will be severely reduced.
Just shows you've got to be a thinker. Thanks a million.
Great information.
And it helps everyone to never stop thinking about what is actually happening.
Heads are flow benched with valves at each open increment, aren't they ??
Thanks Brian. I’m getting ready to put together an 83mm Yamaha FJ based engine for the dragstrip. I’ll make damn sure my pistons are relieved like you illustrated.
The piston IS the other side of the combustion chamber. Also if the you are going beyong factory designs, bias the majority of the compressed gasses to the exhaust side and tighten up on the intake side. The incoming fuel/air charge will help remove some more of the heat from the exhaust valves and atomize fuel better requiring less ignition timing. This is especially helpful with pent roof four valve chambers.
I sure would love to have you do the machine work on my hemi , I love the work you do and I think it’s great you share some of your knowledge with folks
Very educational, Bryan
Never thought about the valve reliefs being a shroud. Cool.
Wish I could have seen that before putting my 468 back together. Makes a lot of sense.
Thanks for the great information again.
At the end of today's Watch Wes Work video he has an engineering question about the effect piston weight on HP and torque, in case you're interested.
Joe Sherman used to that on his small block builds, RIP Joe.
Another JOE secret that the magazine copy cats didn't know when building.
They usually insisted that his power numbers were exaggerated.
JOE was not only a great builder but also a really good guy. 😎
"Cheat Code" ----- I love it‼️👍😁
Thanks again for the awesome tip, brother Brian. 🙂
I am praying for the recovery of your business, brother. ✝️🙏
Awesome info and sharing for us DIY guys. Appreciate the work and details.
Brian, this was fantastic, thank you!
I wonder if Brian has investigated dimpled pistons. For diesels they do amazing things. The technique was started by a guy that did Indian motorcycle pistons and I hear he still does. A company in Nevada , Speed of Air, has been spearheading this.
I will look into that
Either Jim McFarland or his brother of magazine fame has a patent on dimples from @ 40 yrs ago. One piston company made them for a while.
Kinda didnt catch on, like the Singh Grooves idea. (that my friend did back in '62-3) It works.😎
@@hotrodray6802 yes the grooves do work
@@hotrodray6802 UEM pistons in conjunction with SOA is producing pistons for popular diesels used in pick up trucks and also LS engines. They come as a kit.
GREAT video,this are the best HOT RODDING tips,that are being lost.this is the way i used to do stuff.I had a job where i had access to a CNC mill.And while you could do this on it,it real hard to do without a 5 axis head unit.95% of guys did it this way.I prefer to use hand hand tools,but your right about carbide burrs,GO EASY and really grip it,cause if it bites>>haha that cutter really moves fast.Looking forward to watch more of your stuff. thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great video. Porting my own heads opened my eyes to the air's point of view. Man, I'm trying to figure out if you are gifted in thermodynamics or old fashion American common sense. As you explain it, it just makes sense.
The Straw trick on the Burr is a good tip--A Bic pen body is almost exactly 1/4" I.D. and it works well as sleeve for stabilizing the cut on a long shank burr--lube it up good and you can hold it between your fingers and thumb, or just use it like a guard same as the straw.
I have those same calipers. It was in my father’s stuff when he passed away early this year. He was a machinist/engineer he put together printing presses and maintain it.
How much do you think that changed the compression ratio?
Thanks for sharing! Makes total sense. Pick up a few ponies here, and a few there adds up.
When you mentioned this on the other video I was looking more on stopping the detonation side of it because of the sharp edges that can get pretty hot didn't know the cfm side flow it.
You do a great job! Hell, I like your camera work. I don’t necessarily use all your advanced work for my street engines, but your detail and knowledge helps a whole lot. My latest big block is my best effort so far.
This how to tech stuff is really good 👍🏻. Looking forward to the next one! Thanks
Great vid. Have you done any studies on the influence of exhaust scavenging and the valve relief between the valves? I imagine that quench mixing might be improved by what you have done as well.
Reshaping valve reliefs Lost art , a lot of people in the G3 hemi world will not run Dome pistons, main reason is most don't understand the idea of form fitting them to the chamber and knocking down the sharp edge(s) where the valve reliefs are.
Truly appreciate your time, I know it's not a quick and easy thing to do (making these videos)
A leather compass would work well for making that radius mark instead of calipers. They are metal tip on both side and lock to a radius with a screw. Bought cheap on Amazon and you can Sharpen the tip you would scribe with many times on a bench grinder, table sander, a file etc.
Love your videos thanks for sharing your knowledge and showing us the tips and tricks that I can do myself for that extra power. Thanks again
I've never done a engine with such deep pockets in the pistons but I do relieve it in the combustion chambers and relieve the edges of the chamber right out to where the edge of the bore will mate up to it.
LOVE THIS VIDEO! Teaching technique and purpose and method! Awesome... First thing I did was pull up pictures of my Wiseco pistons that I am using in the 4.3L V6 odd-fire build. I want to go down to my machinist and see if we can do this. I would do it myself in my garage with similar tools. I would even place it on the scale and watch the weight as material left the piston. OCD!!! Please keep doing these. Thanks Brian! 🤓
Another great video. Thanks for all your help.
Another great video Brian. Keep em coming!!
Slick tricks by Mr. Salter thank you very much!
Awesome! I will do that at .1505 like on your caliper? Get all the pistons angles the same. I will watch it again, if I missed something on the angle. Some of DV’s videos I have watched 4 times, have three of his books, read them three times and I have still learned a few additional moves from other engineers. I have a ton of questions.
Thank you for the good video would it be possible for u to make a video on what position to degree in a cam my thoughts r to use valve events and target a dynamic compression ratio am I correct to do it this way thank you
Sure keep an eye out for it
Thanks
IMO each specific engine needs to be dyno run with different degree-in cam specs to determine exactly what that specific combination likes. But $$$ dyno.... So we give it our best guess. 😁
Then the timing set wears/stretches and retards it 1-2-3* 🙄
Awesome info as always. Between you, Vizard, Powell, Weingartner, and many others, I should be stupid smart. Thanks for doing what you do. Only question I have is what made you decide on the .150 measurement? Is that just experience, or is there a formula. I'm all about some formula's now.
@@jeffwooton7138 no formulas it's just when you lock it up to the particular cylinder head that's what it took to get the unshrouding effect that I wanted it could take more or it could take less depending on the cylinder head you're using
Thanks!
Thank you
Love your work, buddy!
Cheers.
I'm here to learn from the Best !!
The trade off that I see is that you lose a slight amount of compression. Does the 5 cfm flow increase off-set this loss or do you manage to pick up the compression in other ways? Thanks for sharing your experience and showing us your thought process.
That’s the first thing I thought of .
+3-5 CFM when the piston passes TDC+ and the valve is close makes a difference in power... More early filling. Remember the opening valve is chasing the piston.
1 cc loss is easily recovered with head milling or thinner gasket.
It's eye opening to me, I'm a assembler!
You got a steady hand! I was wondering if you CC the piston before and after to calculate compression loss, or isn't it enough to worry about? Thanks for a great video.
@@427_FE I used to but I've done it so much now it's just not even that measurable but when I started doing it 30 years ago which was the first time I ever tried it yeah they weren't the same I had to work on that
Maybe 1 cc.
The flow improvement offsets the compression loss a lot.
IMO
@@SalterRacingEngines Thanks Brian, I got new pistons ordered, and plan on using your method !
Cheers Brian, love ya work 🏁👍
Ty for the tips an keep up the good work cheers from austraila
It’s the 1st time I’ve seen a piston prepared properly. There’s a few other mods that could be done, sharp edges scatter air flow
That cross buff thing is cool.
I appreciate the information brother
great stuff brian, i use the fine diamond encrusted style burr with wd40 nylon tubing (air hose) just checked a set of cp bullet pistons i have , they have the blending as std.
Get a greasetube-sized "Slick-stick" and use a tiny TINY glop on burrs, drills, flapper wheels and grinding wheels.
(Buy it from the manufacturer. Cheaper than Glamazon.)
A tube will last YEARS in a decent sized operation.
Flapper wheels, grinder wheels and burrs will not plug up with aluminum and they will eat product at an alarming rate, so go slowly when you start out.
For drills, just start the hole and dip the tip in the tube. Melts easy, so store away from sunlight/heat.
Prepare to be amazed.
Thx Brian for the tip! 🏁
Great video, thanks for the tips.
Very informative and captivating just to know if you little tips and secrets like you said 10 horsepower is 10 horsepower
I love the drinking straw trick !
The example piston has lived a very advanced life 😂
Everyone worried about compression loss. Well if it was all about compression and no extra valve lift or no air flow modifications then you just have your stock engine. This is about air flow and pockets are deeper because of more valve lift for more volume of air to fill cylinder. Have to look at the big picture if you flow more air add more fuel and make more horsepower when finally tuned
I would be interested in flow numbers and the change in static compression from unshrouding the valve reliefs.Does the better flow outweigh the loss in cylinder volume? I know it's very minor but it's still lowering compression.
the idea is good. how do you make up for the lost compression?
Wow excellent video
I guess it makes a good difference on a long rod setup, as the piston spends a longer time at TDC while the intake valve gets closer.
Appreciate the videos and information..
ONCE AGAIN...GREAT INFO
Hey Brian, plastics straws have been outlawed here, would paper straws work😂 What piston coating(s) do you use? I like the theory behind the Line2Line coating (Abradable Powder Coating). Have you heard of any coating that is applied to the side of the piston above the top ring land, to minimize that dead space that traps exhaust gasses? Thank you for posting!!!!!
@@ts302 I've used calico for 25 years and Jason line is new to the coating business I mean relatively new but he has some really great ideas and from what I hear some really great coatings. My advice would be to talk to them on that. Yes we do sometimes use coatings in the ring lands especially for some boosted applications and heavy nitrous stuff.