Hey fellow DIYers! Below👇are all the timestamps to help you navigate the video. There is A LOT of information packed in this video that will be helpful to use as a future reference to find specific information. Also, check out my membership offer where you can find exclusive content ruclips.net/channel/UCUJXaEduMHGB3Iap3DusmAAjoin . Enjoy! Timestamps Intro 00:00 14/2 Wire VS 12/2 Wire 00:00:47 Wiring Supplies 00:02:26 Garage Door Receptacle Placement 00:05:05 6/17 Rule Explained 00:06:51 How To Rough In Outlet Wiring 00:07:54 Half Bath & Utility Sink Wiring 00:20:05 Workstation 1 Wiring 00:22:53 Outdoor Kitchen Wiring 00:24:25 Upstairs Receptacle Wiring 00:27:03 Workstation 2 Wiring 00:29:34 Garage Light Wiring 00:31:31 Ceiling Fan Wiring 00:37:47 Recessed Light Wiring 00:39:36 Switch Boxes 00:43:13 Bathroom Fan & Lights Wiring 00:45:34 Exterior Flood Light Wiring 00:50:43 Upstairs Recessed Light Wiring 00:54:25 Wire Stackers For Wire Management 00:55:38 How To Wire Receptacles 00:57:45 How To Pigtail A Receptacles 01:01:56 How To Wire Switch and Outlet In 2 Gang Box 01:05:40 How To Wire A 3-Way Switch 01:07:53 Wiring 2 Circuits in 1 Switch Box 01:09:55 Nail Stoppers Installation 01:14:07 Sub Panel Circuit Breaker Wiring 01:14:58
This is a model of what a DIY video should look like: no dumb sound effects/visuals, no distracting music, no odd personalities or out of focus visuals, etc., just clear and concise information, presented in a no-nonsense manner.
Man, I cannot imagine how much time you had to invest in the video potion of all this work. I've done tons of this work through the years (all before RUclips) and know the time it takes just to do the work, let alone the video documentation. Great Job!!!
You are right, it is a lot of work Jamie! I really enjoyed doing it so that helps it from being a task. It is interesting how much time goes into a video when it’s all said and done. Sounds like you have a lot of experience with video. That is great! Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborerSir one emergency question... A parallel circuit consisting of 2 same load/resistance where the total maximum current is 15 amp. It is protected by 15amp fuse. That means max 7.5 current is allowed in each wires. Now, I removed one of the load. And, I replaced the other second load with new load which consumes max 10amp. That means only one new load is connected in the circuit. That means there's more 2.5amp difference of current flow in the new load circuit. So, in the old load, max is 7.5 per wire. In the new load max is 10 per wire. So, just 2.5 amp difference. Now, coming to my question... If the new circuit is ON say for max 10 seconds, will the circuit immediately BURNS up within 10 seconds??? Of course, it will be hot. How long (30 secs etc) can the wire stay unburnt? How long can it stay safe? Or, How much extra current can be passed beyond the maximum limit for any given gauge wire?
This is the first video of yours I've seen, and I guarantee - it won't be the last. I love your explanations of everything, especially tips n "tricks", your thoroughness, and how you fast-forward (but still Show) repetitive tasks - there's a lot of information contained there too. Clear speech, awesome camera work, lighting - Everything! You are an excellent tradesman AND teacher. Thanks so very much!!!
With the help of your video I was able to bring electricity from my house panel to my newly built shop. I wired a new panel, ram circuits, set up outlets and lights so thank you for sharing your expertise. 👍👍
Good intro to the task. A few tips from this DIYer: I rarely use a tape. Instead, I have a "story stick" with a few crucial measurements marked on it. (9", 12", 24" most often.) I use an Ideal Lil' Ripper to open Romex, and that happens to be 6" long. I also know how long my hammer handle and screwdrivers are. Chalk lines are the bomb. I make a habit of pulling the incoming feed cable through the top left hole in the box. If the Next Guy notices this, he'll thank me, since he'll know how all the boxes are done. Double check Sharpie for labeling cables. Always, always, always think of the Next Guy. The two-nail cable staples, with the white plastic saddle, are super, especially in tight spots. Zero chance of pinching the cable. The big blue Irwin auger bit is great--but for old work, cheap spade bits can be thrown away with minimal pain when hidden nails chew them up. If possible, when drilling I finish the hole from the exit side to avoid splintering, which might nick the cable. A block held against the back will also help if the stud spacing is too tight. Use armored cable or even conduit if your garage, basement, or shop will not have finished walls. I also use metallic boxes. I always use 12 ga wiring in utility spaces. Always. For everything. Except for heavy duty circuits that need 10 ga. I always use commercial or spec grade outlets and switches, not the commodity or residential units, especially not the ones out of the bargain bins. This goes triple for heavy duty use areas, such as the garage or kitchen.
I mean no faults for going above and beyond. Sometimes a DIYer can be the best contractor. I have to admit I laughed a little bit reading your post. I’ve never seen a splinter go through a piece of romex but hell, if you sleep better at night then there ya go. Story sticks are nice, I guess, I would be kicked off a job for using one and being too slow. At the end of the day it’s all covered by dry wall so you just find a point on on your body (like your hip or what not), drop your right angled drill at a comfortable height and let her rip. Also, who wants to bend over to run wire?
@AdamS-lh2ug I assume you just set a laser for multiple outlets at the same height. Also I haven't used wood studs in years, including for load bearing walls.
I was helping an old timer one day. I started pulling and straightening the wire. "NO!. Let it come off the roll", he said. And he was right. Smooth and easy.
I always loved wiring my projects and making sure the codes are followed because so many cities can change something. One big example is to never have a freezer or refrigerator on a GFCI. If it trips for some reason, contents are a loss. Always knowing what style of light is a big help like you mentioned about LED style lights and plug in. I love the wire stackers because how neat it is, but this is another thing to make sure the code allows. Been told that insulation installs can create an issue for fastening it properly or spray insulation can cause a wire to come out. Again, it doesn't take much time to check out what is allowed and what isn't. Always love your videos and explanations. Till next time Josh 🔨👍🏻
I agree with you, David about making sure you are compliant with the codes of your jurisdiction. That’s an excellent point about having a freezer on its own circuit. That is the great thing about the halo housings, you can use the LED lights that plug-in, and they also make the socket style. I’ve been using the wire stackers for years and they are okay to use here. It makes securing the wires so easy and you can just click them out if you need to redo the circuit if needed. I will be installing a mini split soon, so I will have to run a wire for that on a double pole breaker. Thanks for your comment David and as always thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer If you put a fridge/freezer outlet in a space that requires GFI protection for other plugs, use a single recepticle instead of a duplex. That way nothing else can share that outlet. A duplex will get you rejected in many jurisdictions.
This particular man, i think, puts the best electrical information on RUclips that you can get. Whatever he says I would use yellow sheathing for AWG#12 DIY work because although it is harder to handle than AWG# 14, (white sheathing) your load resistance will be well served and who knows, you may want to use that circuit for something stronger. Remember to cut and not pull on plastic electrical tape until it breaks; the reason is that's the part that stretches when it gets pulled and broken will not stick down firmly on the end; pull to break the end that was pulled will eventually become loose and you have an poor ugly installation or little flags flapping in the air.
Wire resistance for either of them is going to be pretty trivial unless you're doing a really long run somewhere (500 feet or more). The 12 gauge wire is also substantially more expensive, so it's really just wasting money to use it for things like lighting circuits, IMHO... But I do highly recommend running 20 amp (12 gauge) circuits for any circuit with any outlet receptacles on it. With appliance power consumption requirements nowadays it's really kinda dumb not to. (Also, if you're going to use 12 gauge wire everywhere, you should also use 20 amp breakers for all of it (there is absolutely no reason to put a 15 amp breaker on a 12 gauge circuit, and it's just confusing/unnecessarily limiting for people who come along later).)
Love your videos... I freaked out when you said you had to have 6" of wire past the front surface of the box. NEC 300.14 says 6" from where the conductor emerges from the raceway and a minimum of 3" out from the face of the gang box. Thank you for making these videos. I wired my own house partially from what you present.
Wow! This video is so informative! I always wondered how all of this stuff was done. I like how you explain what you’re doing in layman’s terms so I can understand. Thanks so much!
Great Do-it-yourself video on basic wiring. One suggestion that makes replacing defective 3-way switches easier marker travelers between the two 3-way switches with blue tape. (As it's easier to confuse a black traveler with the black hot or black feeding a luminaire)
HARD thumbs up. I've struggled with figuring out 3- or 4-way circuits where the wires aren't properly marked. I use six inches of blue or red shrink tubing (although I don't bother to shrink it.) This assumes I didn't run three wire cable, which is properly colored to start with. I'm a big fan of multiway switches, so I always have a spool of 12-3 on hand.
Always 12-2 in the Garage. Amazon sells these cool little ac voltmeter. There tiny have a blue light and cheap. A while back there was some shenanigans with the transformer that fed me and 3 other neighbors. One 12 leg kept going a little low. One day it went zero volts and took out my neighbors condenser unit. A big 4 ton. So after that I brought out both leg in my panel to 2 single gang boxes mounted on the wall next to may panel one leg on one side one leg on the other. Plugged in the little vott monitors. Its pretty cool to walk by your panel and see what both legs coming in look like the meters will come in handy in hurricane season.
Awww buddy, im finished with my concrete and my walls and wiring are next. You are right on time with this video. Im about to get my note pad and save this video! Thank you for putting this information out.
Fantastic! I enjoyed all aspects of the building process. Everywhere from the foundation work to putting on shingles. I appreciate you watching the video. I hope it helps!
I just wanted to comment that because of your videos I went from being totally ignorant about electricity to pulling permits rewriting a room in my house saving me thousands of dollars. Thanks man you are fucking awesome!!
I’m glad you found value in my videos. I do have a ton of information on the channel and it’s very helpful for people new to DIY. Good luck with all of your other projects! Take care!
This guy is a great teacher. I am excited, because I live ina place with the same you own it you can install it yourself code and now I think I actually can do it myself. Thank you!!! I'm watching and taking notes and learning tons!
Also, to each their own, but why would you want your garage receptacles so low? As a homeowner doing this, don’t be afraid to move them up to whatever you want really, but you know, maybe counter height?
I placed receptacles at counter height where the miter saw workstation is going to be placed. If you check the timestamps, I explain that. I appreciate you watching!
There’s also no requirement for so many receptacles in a garage. This “6/12” rule only applies to living spaces under the NEC. Only need one per bay and any “specific equipment” like the garage door opener.
I learn so much from your channel its crazy. Very well communicated information! Thanks. PS We installed our kitchen cabinets from your tutorial and they turned out great.
You are welcome! I am thrilled to hear that your kitchen cabinets turned out great! Thanks for being a viewer of the channel. I do try to put as much information to make my videos for one completed as I can. Stay tuned for lots of more videos to come!
Wanted to send a sincere thank you for all your amazing videos and helpful spirit. Thanks to your excellent content, We've been able to tackle several DIY projects and skip the rookie stage. :). It has been really nice to do it right the first time, when you only have one $hot to begin with. Thank you so much for the work it takes to create and post these... it has been so helpful as we build our home.
I have built a 30 x 28 garage in Northern Ohio which I will be tackling the wiring myself this spring. Great video. I look forward to watching your other vids. Well done.
That was a great video. Really informative and the time stamps are excellent for going back several times and reminder for each step , for those of who haven't done a lot of electrical. YOU have a great channel , keep up the great content! Merry Christmas 🎅 from Alberta, Canada 🇨🇦
I do put the timestamps in the videos to give the viewer an opportunity to get to the information they are looking for. I’m glad you are enjoying my content. I appreciate the kind words. Merry Christmas as well!
Tip…. Layout all current and future layout of equipment and shelving, frig, freezer and incorporate it into outlet placement. Separate circuits for frig& freezer.
@@valleyscharping if you want to have a big power tool like a 3 phase table saw you need 220. There's a ton of things you might find in a working garage that require a 220 outlet. If you're doing all this work it totally make sense to include 1-2 if not more. Jointer, compressor, dust collector all can be 220. even if you just work on cars having a big compressor makes a garage a lot more useful.
Agreed ! Unless there is some foolish local code that requires they be at 16". My rule is, if it is for temporary connections (as most would be for a garage), mount them above the counter. Last thing I want to have to do is bend over every time I need to plug something in. We do some events where we setup our computer equipment in the customers office. It would have been great it when they wired it the outlets were above the work surface. It is a pain to have to get down on the floor and under the table to plug our stuff in. In a living room where you typically plug in your lamps and never move them, 16" is great.
Superb video! Fantastic video editing! I learned so much about wiring from this! Even if I hire an electrician for my next wiring job, now I'm empowered with this special knowledge! Thanks so much for the video!
Thank you for the detail information and instruction, If there are some more option, it will be helpful. such as if have a plan to install a solar panel, use 6+. if have a plan to use a electric saw/compressor.. 12 with non GFI.. ^^
Trick for installing boxes, if you have a large enough project to matter. Take a piece of decent 1/2" plywood and cut it to be the height of the top of the box to the floor. Cut a notch the size of the box. Screw or glue a stop blocks so that they line up with the outer edges of the box notch. You can now walk up to a stud, place this template against the stud using the stop blocks to position it, drop a box into the slot and nail it in. Goes super fast and makes everything really consistent. When you don't have to stop and measure, mark etc it can save a great deal of time if you do this a lot.
Great video, I'm about to wire my pole barn and this was a good refresher on some things. I'm curious how you are going to put a box on your conduit that is stubbed out of the floor for your workbench. I'm running two circuits like that and I haven't figured out how I'm going to do it so it won't be a trip hazard if I move the work bench and so liquids don't get in it if I spill something. I hope you include that in your next video. Please keep sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for your awesome comment! I spend a lot of time to keep my videos to the point yet very detailed. Subscribers like you make it worthwhile. Thanks for watching as well!
Hi Josh! Right off I have to say that your videos are great, detailed and clear. Thank you! I have a question that I am sure you know the answer to and one that I can't find an answer online. How many outgoing power feeds can I pull from an outlet using a pigtail? I am using 12/2 wire from a 20 amp outlet receptacles with a 20 amp breaker. Thanks for the help.
Josh is a beast!!! Wish you were my son, grandson, or best friend so I could ask you stuff. All those wires. I got overwhelmed watching😂. I learned so things I had questions on and things I didn't know. I still don't know how you end up with 2 sets of (2 black, 2 white, 2 ground) wires coming out of your outlet. Mine outlets have one set of wires so I can't Daisy chain them. Can you do a video on how to add a newly wired receptacle to a junction box connecting an existing wire in the basement? 😊
I enjoyed the entire video, but FOUR screws on each side of the block for the ceiling fan made me smile. I understand it is overkill, but you might be able to attach a hoist to pull an engine on with that setup! Not even close to condemning overkill on anything that might fall on your head, so good job!
I'm curious how you learned all your skills? I retired and have been remodeling to stay busy and you have been an valuable resource. Thanks. When are you going to get a show on DIY network?
Great job of organizing !! The supplies !! I am looking for one idem I can’t find black square electric box under the certain tead siding box with built in jays
Let me ask you when you did the branch circuitry in the summer kitchen did article 210.52 or 152.47slip your mind? It requires a minimum of TWO small appliance circuits in the kitchen I feel sorry for whoever is working in the kitchen start up a toaster oven and then turn on the blender and it blows the circuit
10:41 I don't believe you should "punch out the back of this box" with the needle nose. Those plastic tabs are intended to be pressed INTO the box with the Romex and grip and secure the Romex when it is inserted in the box. If you look closely at that tab, it has molded lines in it that are for gripping the Romex. Also, a lot of electricians like to run the outlet boxes in a garage up around 48" above the floor, that way if things like plywood (4 foot wide) lawn mower, gas gas, etc. are below the outlets.
1:21:35 When labeling circuits, it's a good idea to note the cardinal location of area so that in the future, someone who (is not you) can know WHICH work station is number 1, and which one is number 2, etc. [IE: Workstation 1 (east) and Workstation 2 (west)] The same thing can be said for rooms in a house. Just because one uses the North middle room as an office, doesn't mean a new occupant will use it as such, which in turn might confuse an electrician in the future (for a little bit) when new occupant says they want the nursery to get an upgrade, but it's labeled as "office" on the panel. Just a tip, take it with a grain of salt.
Some of us have it in our minds to think of the next person I think you shared a good tip. I like the way you said take it with a grain of salt at the end because you can't think of everything or we would be making these videos ourselves LOL
If you're ever planning on actually doing work in the garage, you'll want a couple separate circuits. Depending on your vacuum system you might want that kept separate. Wi-Fi access points should be ceiling mounted when possible. Also, if you plan on a man cave, be sure to run a couple Cat6 to where your TV will go, cable is useless unless you want a separate cable box there. Either way, run the Cat6. Run a Cat6 to anywhere you think you might need one as well. Cat7/8 can be used as well but being a shop... meh. You can install one of those ugly white boxes on/in your wall or run the wire to a central, accessible spot (make sure there's a connection to where the main house modem is using DB wire). As a side note, I wonder how long it will be before they acknowledge running 14/2 to lighting, and those electrical boxes, is a waste....
As an ex datacom/telecom/electrician person, I would go with Cat 5E. Easier to deal with, cheaper, and can handle most installs fine, unless you are running extremely fast hubs and servers. But, that my opinion.
Great Video! Thanks for the time and effort. Simpliefies a few things and picked up a few tricks. One question I have, is about planning and drawing your plans. Saw a few quick screen shots but nothing too detailed. Is there an App/Program you use to layout your electrical? Also, if anyone has suggestions for an easy to use Room/Garage layout and design, I'd love to hear. Looking for something I can scan or input dimensions and then be able to draw /drop in dimensions for items both ON WALLS as WELL as FLOOR FOOTPRINT. Limited space so I am hoping to use drop tables and a french cleat wall to optimize my space and give me a table/mitre saw feed station.
Super video but ,be aware of something easy to check deeper into.. Not sure if it was mentioned but worth checking into folks... i didn't hear the excellent laborer talk about the receptacle type/rating when using #12 wire with 20 amp circuit.. In Canada{maybe USA too?} standard wall receptacle plugs are only rated at 15 amps..{but there is a heavier/different 20 amp wall receptacle available at extra $$} .ie: if a 12 gauge wire is used with a 20 amp breaker the 15 amp receptacle would not be heavy enough for the power supply that could be pulled through the receptacle by power hungry shop tool{s} on the same wall receptacle.
Thanks. I learned a lot. Can you please do a front porch concrete staircase repair where concrete is chipping off? I asked a contractor for my house and price given was something I cannot afford.
I found your channel when i did a google search for wiring my garage. This is a really good instructional video. Thank you. I do have a question for you and maybe i missed it in the video but when rewiring your detached garage, would you suggest using twisted wire or copper? The old copper is a bear to work with but i have heard that the new stuff is a lot easier.
It’s not my work and I wouldn’t do it but to my knowledge those boxes specifically are designed to have the tab pushed in from behind so they grab the wire and prevent it from going into the wall. Designed after many house fires, ask the inspector though because I’m curious from their standpoint
Hey great video! Thank you for sharing. I've got a question about my Romex 14/2 black wire. I pulled out my light switch to change it for a new one and noticed that the black wire that's connected to the light switch, looks like it's clear coating is all wrinkled/ flaking. No copper is exposed. Would you know what would cause that? Should I be concerned?
Nice tutorial. Do you need to use staples when running wire above the rafters? Likewise in a crawl space, staples or drilling through the joists? I will be installing 4 exterior receptacles, GFCI, and runs will be in my crawl space.
Left out some rather important aspects. You save money long term by using 12ga for 15 amp circuits and 10ga for 20 amp..line losses are less. It use to be about 3 years use to pay off the difference in cost, not sure of the current time. The minimum is for safety, and used commercially due to cost. That doesn't make it the best long term. There's also length of run losses. Voltage drop can have a significant impact on tool life (lower voltage requires higher amps for the same work)
The wife and I are electrical engineers. We designed, built, and wired our own home in 1984 with 12 AWG. We moved into our current home in 2000 designed by an architect with 14 AGW in 1967. We are putting up with dim bulbs when the vacuum is running.
So is what he said correct: That 12AWG is the only kind you can use with 20amp receptacles? I’m trying to upgrade my home. I currently have all 14AWG lines with some 15amp receptacles & some 20amp receptacles, but all my breakers are 20amp (except the electrical 40g water heater is on a 40amp “double” breaker)… I’d like to especially make sure my heavy appliances are getting proper electrical supply, like my refrigerator, chest freezer, microwave, natural gas forced air furnace, and window AC. They do all have their own, single, dedicated lines & breakers, except the furnace & window AC share a line because I don’t use both at the same time. I had planned to replace all 15amp receptacles to go to all 20amp receptacles, but I thought they were okay with all the 14AWG lines. Do I need 12AWG with the 20amp receptacles???
@@AngelofOntario I heard the chief engineer once say, "The circuit breaker is sized to protect the wire". That means an overloaded 14AGW wire might get too hot before a 20 Amp breaker tripped.
@AngelofOntario yes...someone probably replaced the 15 Amp breakers with 20 amp. If the wire is 14 gauge, you need to put 15 Amp breakers on those circuits. A 20 Amp receptacle needs 12 gauge wire with 20 Amp breaker
I usually make all receptacles double box. Metal with the mounting wings. That way the box is grounded, i can screw the wings to the studs with sheet rock screws For a more secure mechanical mounting, And they are actually cheaper than single box receptacles if you buy them in bulk.
Hey fellow DIYers! Below👇are all the timestamps to help you navigate the video. There is A LOT of information packed in this video that will be helpful to use as a future reference to find specific information. Also, check out my membership offer where you can find exclusive content ruclips.net/channel/UCUJXaEduMHGB3Iap3DusmAAjoin . Enjoy!
Timestamps
Intro 00:00
14/2 Wire VS 12/2 Wire 00:00:47
Wiring Supplies 00:02:26
Garage Door Receptacle Placement 00:05:05
6/17 Rule Explained 00:06:51
How To Rough In Outlet Wiring 00:07:54
Half Bath & Utility Sink Wiring 00:20:05
Workstation 1 Wiring 00:22:53
Outdoor Kitchen Wiring 00:24:25
Upstairs Receptacle Wiring 00:27:03
Workstation 2 Wiring 00:29:34
Garage Light Wiring 00:31:31
Ceiling Fan Wiring 00:37:47
Recessed Light Wiring 00:39:36
Switch Boxes 00:43:13
Bathroom Fan & Lights Wiring 00:45:34
Exterior Flood Light Wiring 00:50:43
Upstairs Recessed Light Wiring 00:54:25
Wire Stackers For Wire Management 00:55:38
How To Wire Receptacles 00:57:45
How To Pigtail A Receptacles 01:01:56
How To Wire Switch and Outlet In 2 Gang Box 01:05:40
How To Wire A 3-Way Switch 01:07:53
Wiring 2 Circuits in 1 Switch Box 01:09:55
Nail Stoppers Installation 01:14:07
Sub Panel Circuit Breaker Wiring 01:14:58
😊😊
Great video!!!! Huge Garage. By the way forgove meif youve said it but what state is this?
This is a model of what a DIY video should look like: no dumb sound effects/visuals, no distracting music, no odd personalities or out of focus visuals, etc., just clear and concise information, presented in a no-nonsense manner.
This here......is a goddamned fact.
I really hate it when they use that high-pitched squeaky voice music. It's annoying.
Man, I cannot imagine how much time you had to invest in the video potion of all this work. I've done tons of this work through the years (all before RUclips) and know the time it takes just to do the work, let alone the video documentation. Great Job!!!
You are right, it is a lot of work Jamie! I really enjoyed doing it so that helps it from being a task. It is interesting how much time goes into a video when it’s all said and done. Sounds like you have a lot of experience with video. That is great! Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborerSir one emergency question...
A parallel circuit consisting of 2 same load/resistance where the total maximum current is 15 amp. It is protected by 15amp fuse. That means max 7.5 current is allowed in each wires.
Now, I removed one of the load. And, I replaced the other second load with new load which consumes max 10amp.
That means only one new load is connected in the circuit. That means there's more 2.5amp difference of current flow in the new load circuit.
So, in the old load, max is 7.5 per wire.
In the new load max is 10 per wire.
So, just 2.5 amp difference.
Now, coming to my question...
If the new circuit is ON say for max 10 seconds, will the circuit immediately BURNS up within 10 seconds??? Of course, it will be hot.
How long (30 secs etc) can the wire stay unburnt? How long can it stay safe?
Or, How much extra current can be passed beyond the maximum limit for any given gauge wire?
This is the first video of yours I've seen, and I guarantee - it won't be the last. I love your explanations of everything, especially tips n "tricks", your thoroughness, and how you fast-forward (but still Show) repetitive tasks - there's a lot of information contained there too. Clear speech, awesome camera work, lighting - Everything! You are an excellent tradesman AND teacher. Thanks so very much!!!
With the help of your video I was able to bring electricity from my house panel to my newly built shop. I wired a new panel, ram circuits, set up outlets and lights so thank you for sharing your expertise. 👍👍
Good intro to the task. A few tips from this DIYer:
I rarely use a tape. Instead, I have a "story stick" with a few crucial measurements marked on it. (9", 12", 24" most often.) I use an Ideal Lil' Ripper to open Romex, and that happens to be 6" long. I also know how long my hammer handle and screwdrivers are.
Chalk lines are the bomb.
I make a habit of pulling the incoming feed cable through the top left hole in the box. If the Next Guy notices this, he'll thank me, since he'll know how all the boxes are done.
Double check Sharpie for labeling cables. Always, always, always think of the Next Guy.
The two-nail cable staples, with the white plastic saddle, are super, especially in tight spots. Zero chance of pinching the cable.
The big blue Irwin auger bit is great--but for old work, cheap spade bits can be thrown away with minimal pain when hidden nails chew them up.
If possible, when drilling I finish the hole from the exit side to avoid splintering, which might nick the cable. A block held against the back will also help if the stud spacing is too tight.
Use armored cable or even conduit if your garage, basement, or shop will not have finished walls. I also use metallic boxes.
I always use 12 ga wiring in utility spaces. Always. For everything. Except for heavy duty circuits that need 10 ga.
I always use commercial or spec grade outlets and switches, not the commodity or residential units, especially not the ones out of the bargain bins. This goes triple for heavy duty use areas, such as the garage or kitchen.
Thanks for the tips
I use a wire stripper that has standard marks for differnt screw sizes. It also has a needle nose plier end to make perfect eyes to fit the screws.
I mean no faults for going above and beyond. Sometimes a DIYer can be the best contractor. I have to admit I laughed a little bit reading your post. I’ve never seen a splinter go through a piece of romex but hell, if you sleep better at night then there ya go.
Story sticks are nice, I guess, I would be kicked off a job for using one and being too slow. At the end of the day it’s all covered by dry wall so you just find a point on on your body (like your hip or what not), drop your right angled drill at a comfortable height and let her rip. Also, who wants to bend over to run wire?
@AdamS-lh2ug I assume you just set a laser for multiple outlets at the same height.
Also I haven't used wood studs in years, including for load bearing walls.
Yup! Used to have a "sacred stick" set for switch box hieght...
Over an hour video of information, Thought I’d skim through this however I watched every single second. Great work, it’s now 3:05am.
I did the same thing😂
I was helping an old timer one day. I started pulling and straightening the wire. "NO!. Let it come off the roll", he said. And he was right. Smooth and easy.
I always loved wiring my projects and making sure the codes are followed because so many cities can change something. One big example is to never have a freezer or refrigerator on a GFCI. If it trips for some reason, contents are a loss.
Always knowing what style of light is a big help like you mentioned about LED style lights and plug in.
I love the wire stackers because how neat it is, but this is another thing to make sure the code allows. Been told that insulation installs can create an issue for fastening it properly or spray insulation can cause a wire to come out. Again, it doesn't take much time to check out what is allowed and what isn't.
Always love your videos and explanations.
Till next time Josh 🔨👍🏻
I agree with you, David about making sure you are compliant with the codes of your jurisdiction. That’s an excellent point about having a freezer on its own circuit.
That is the great thing about the halo housings, you can use the LED lights that plug-in, and they also make the socket style. I’ve been using the wire stackers for years and they are okay to use here. It makes securing the wires so easy and you can just click them out if you need to redo the circuit if needed. I will be installing a mini split soon, so I will have to run a wire for that on a double pole breaker. Thanks for your comment David and as always thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer If you put a fridge/freezer outlet in a space that requires GFI protection for other plugs, use a single recepticle instead of a duplex. That way nothing else can share that outlet. A duplex will get you rejected in many jurisdictions.
N.E.C will require you to have GFCI protection on that freezer or refrigerator in the garage or kitchen, or anything anywhere else now..
This particular man, i think, puts the best electrical information on RUclips that you can get. Whatever he says I would use yellow sheathing for AWG#12 DIY work because although it is harder to handle than AWG# 14, (white sheathing) your load resistance will be well served and who knows, you may want to use that circuit for something stronger.
Remember to cut and not pull on plastic electrical tape until it breaks; the reason is that's the part that stretches when it gets pulled and broken will not stick down firmly on the end; pull to break the end that was pulled will eventually become loose and you have an poor ugly installation or little flags flapping in the air.
Wire resistance for either of them is going to be pretty trivial unless you're doing a really long run somewhere (500 feet or more). The 12 gauge wire is also substantially more expensive, so it's really just wasting money to use it for things like lighting circuits, IMHO...
But I do highly recommend running 20 amp (12 gauge) circuits for any circuit with any outlet receptacles on it. With appliance power consumption requirements nowadays it's really kinda dumb not to.
(Also, if you're going to use 12 gauge wire everywhere, you should also use 20 amp breakers for all of it (there is absolutely no reason to put a 15 amp breaker on a 12 gauge circuit, and it's just confusing/unnecessarily limiting for people who come along later).)
And really good reply@@foogod4237
Love your videos... I freaked out when you said you had to have 6" of wire past the front surface of the box. NEC 300.14 says 6" from where the conductor emerges from the raceway and a minimum of 3" out from the face of the gang box. Thank you for making these videos. I wired my own house partially from what you present.
Wow! This video is so informative! I always wondered how all of this stuff was done. I like how you explain what you’re doing in layman’s terms so I can understand. Thanks so much!
Great Do-it-yourself video on basic wiring.
One suggestion that makes replacing defective 3-way switches easier marker travelers between the two 3-way switches with blue tape.
(As it's easier to confuse a black traveler with the black hot or black feeding a luminaire)
HARD thumbs up. I've struggled with figuring out 3- or 4-way circuits where the wires aren't properly marked. I use six inches of blue or red shrink tubing (although I don't bother to shrink it.) This assumes I didn't run three wire cable, which is properly colored to start with. I'm a big fan of multiway switches, so I always have a spool of 12-3 on hand.
Always 12-2 in the Garage.
Amazon sells these cool little ac voltmeter. There tiny have a blue light and cheap. A while back there was some shenanigans with the transformer that fed me and 3 other neighbors. One 12 leg kept going a little low. One day it went zero volts and took out my neighbors condenser unit. A big 4 ton. So after that I brought out both leg in my panel to 2 single gang boxes mounted on the wall next to may panel one leg on one side one leg on the other. Plugged in the little vott monitors. Its pretty cool to walk by your panel and see what both legs coming in look like the meters will come in handy in hurricane season.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 i’m Richard from Africa Ghana 🇬🇭 and I love your work and I’m also an electrician
Awww buddy, im finished with my concrete and my walls and wiring are next. You are right on time with this video. Im about to get my note pad and save this video!
Thank you for putting this information out.
Fantastic! I enjoyed all aspects of the building process. Everywhere from the foundation work to putting on shingles. I appreciate you watching the video. I hope it helps!
its really helpful when you name the names of the fixtures and receptacles you are using when I go to make my pick lists for my projects. Keep it up!
I just wanted to comment that because of your videos I went from being totally ignorant about electricity to pulling permits rewriting a room in my house saving me thousands of dollars. Thanks man you are fucking awesome!!
I’m glad you found value in my videos. I do have a ton of information on the channel and it’s very helpful for people new to DIY. Good luck with all of your other projects! Take care!
This guy is a great teacher. I am excited, because I live ina place with the same you own it you can install it yourself code and now I think I actually can do it myself. Thank you!!!
I'm watching and taking notes and learning tons!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 i’m Richard from Africa Ghana 🇬🇭 and I love your work
Thanks for this! I am planning to do exactly this: wire a detached 3-car garage + loft. This is an absolute god-send. Subscribed and liked!
Great! This will certainly be a good guide for you. Good luck with your project!
Also, to each their own, but why would you want your garage receptacles so low? As a homeowner doing this, don’t be afraid to move them up to whatever you want really, but you know, maybe counter height?
I placed receptacles at counter height where the miter saw workstation is going to be placed. If you check the timestamps, I explain that. I appreciate you watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborerI love ur videos man thanks for making them I learned so much in the first 10 min alone
Agree 36” to 48” for inside the shop is fine. I have plenty of work tables and it works great. 4 gang boxes as well for dense outlets.
There’s also no requirement for so many receptacles in a garage. This “6/12” rule only applies to living spaces under the NEC.
Only need one per bay and any “specific equipment” like the garage door opener.
@@TheExcellentLaborer must have missed that! Apologies.
i decide to be a apprentice electirican soon, your video will help me a lot at this point, great thanks!
Excellent. Makes me want to move to acreage and build a detached garage/utility bldg so I can run the electric!
I learn so much from your channel its crazy. Very well communicated information! Thanks.
PS We installed our kitchen cabinets from your tutorial and they turned out great.
You are welcome! I am thrilled to hear that your kitchen cabinets turned out great! Thanks for being a viewer of the channel. I do try to put as much information to make my videos for one completed as I can. Stay tuned for lots of more videos to come!
Wanted to send a sincere thank you for all your amazing videos and helpful spirit. Thanks to your excellent content, We've been able to tackle several DIY projects and skip the rookie stage. :). It has been really nice to do it right the first time, when you only have one $hot to begin with. Thank you so much for the work it takes to create and post these... it has been so helpful as we build our home.
I have built a 30 x 28 garage in Northern Ohio which I will be tackling the wiring myself this spring.
Great video. I look forward to watching your other vids. Well done.
That was a great video. Really informative and the time stamps are excellent for going back several times and reminder for each step , for those of who haven't done a lot of electrical. YOU have a great channel , keep up the great content! Merry Christmas 🎅 from Alberta, Canada 🇨🇦
I do put the timestamps in the videos to give the viewer an opportunity to get to the information they are looking for. I’m glad you are enjoying my content. I appreciate the kind words. Merry Christmas as well!
Tip…. Layout all current and future layout of equipment and shelving, frig, freezer and incorporate it into outlet placement.
Separate circuits for frig& freezer.
Perfect timing. I'm about to run a new breaker and outlet in my garage pretty soon. Thank you for the very informative video!
for the love of every DIY er who works in the garage put in at least one 30A circuit and a 220V outlet
What for?
@@valleyscharping if you want to have a big power tool like a 3 phase table saw you need 220. There's a ton of things you might find in a working garage that require a 220 outlet. If you're doing all this work it totally make sense to include 1-2 if not more. Jointer, compressor, dust collector all can be 220. even if you just work on cars having a big compressor makes a garage a lot more useful.
@@brianb7388 not to mention the amplifier for your ham radio too!!
50A for a welder!
@@valleyscharping
🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦
You asked that
And you do woodworking ..
😂😂😂😂
Wow. Great, not only for doing it yourself, but you can see if the electrician working on your panel is doing it correctly. well done.
Unless you wire your own panel, which he excellently shows also!
Great video. Even though i do a lot of electrical work I learn things from watching your videos all the time.
Thank you!
I wish this guy was my neighbor AND best friend. 😊 His videos are darn close tho 👍🏼
I appreciate your support. Subscribers like you that enjoy my channel make it all worthwhile. Take care!
Amazing video. OMG! Thank you so much. I have an unattached small shed. Can't wait to get it wired following your guidance.
Being an avid woodworker I put outlets 50" off the floor to avoid them being behind sheet goods.
Agreed ! Unless there is some foolish local code that requires they be at 16". My rule is, if it is for temporary connections (as most would be for a garage), mount them above the counter. Last thing I want to have to do is bend over every time I need to plug something in. We do some events where we setup our computer equipment in the customers office. It would have been great it when they wired it the outlets were above the work surface. It is a pain to have to get down on the floor and under the table to plug our stuff in. In a living room where you typically plug in your lamps and never move them, 16" is great.
Amazing video all done by yourself great thank you
You are welcome.I hope you find my videos helpful. Thank you!
Very good and detailed. As a DIY it helps me better understand something’s I needed to know.
Superb video! Fantastic video editing! I learned so much about wiring from this! Even if I hire an electrician for my next wiring job, now I'm empowered with this special knowledge! Thanks so much for the video!
Great Channel, great video here also. I'm building a new garage shop area and I'm wiring it myself, so perfect timing. Thanks. cheers Edman
Thank you for the detail information and instruction, If there are some more option, it will be helpful. such as if have a plan to install a solar panel, use 6+. if have a plan to use a electric saw/compressor.. 12 with non GFI.. ^^
Trick for installing boxes, if you have a large enough project to matter. Take a piece of decent 1/2" plywood and cut it to be the height of the top of the box to the floor. Cut a notch the size of the box. Screw or glue a stop blocks so that they line up with the outer edges of the box notch. You can now walk up to a stud, place this template against the stud using the stop blocks to position it, drop a box into the slot and nail it in. Goes super fast and makes everything really consistent. When you don't have to stop and measure, mark etc it can save a great deal of time if you do this a lot.
Great video, I'm about to wire my pole barn and this was a good refresher on some things. I'm curious how you are going to put a box on your conduit that is stubbed out of the floor for your workbench. I'm running two circuits like that and I haven't figured out how I'm going to do it so it won't be a trip hazard if I move the work bench and so liquids don't get in it if I spill something. I hope you include that in your next video. Please keep sharing your knowledge.
Great video! Never stop learning! Thanks.
Great video! You’re doing an amazing job explaining stuff very articulate. Great channel.
Thank you for your awesome comment! I spend a lot of time to keep my videos to the point yet very detailed. Subscribers like you make it worthwhile. Thanks for watching as well!
Great tutorial for residential garage.
Hi Josh! Right off I have to say that your videos are great, detailed and clear. Thank you! I have a question that I am sure you know the answer to and one that I can't find an answer online. How many outgoing power feeds can I pull from an outlet using a pigtail? I am using 12/2 wire from a 20 amp outlet receptacles with a 20 amp breaker. Thanks for the help.
Josh is a beast!!! Wish you were my son, grandson, or best friend so I could ask you stuff. All those wires. I got overwhelmed watching😂. I learned so things I had questions on and things I didn't know. I still don't know how you end up with 2 sets of (2 black, 2 white, 2 ground) wires coming out of your outlet. Mine outlets have one set of wires so I can't Daisy chain them. Can you do a video on how to add a newly wired receptacle to a junction box connecting an existing wire in the basement? 😊
I love your video , you are explained everything very clear . I subscribed .thanks
Great teacher. Thanks for your videos
I enjoyed the entire video, but FOUR screws on each side of the block for the ceiling fan made me smile. I understand it is overkill, but you might be able to attach a hoist to pull an engine on with that setup! Not even close to condemning overkill on anything that might fall on your head, so good job!
am building my house an always lern aalot from you thank bro
Good video and information. You show 15A outlets on your 20A cicuits though.
Thanks! We can use 15A outlets if it it’s not a dedicated circuit. I hope that helps!
I'm curious how you learned all your skills? I retired and have been remodeling to stay busy and you have been an valuable resource. Thanks. When are you going to get a show on DIY network?
Great video. Electrician approved!
Great job of organizing !! The supplies !! I am looking for one idem I can’t find black square electric box under the certain tead siding box with built in jays
Let me ask you when you did the branch circuitry in the summer kitchen did article 210.52 or 152.47slip your mind? It requires a minimum of TWO small appliance circuits in the kitchen I feel sorry for whoever is working in the kitchen start up a toaster oven and then turn on the blender and it blows the circuit
10:41 I don't believe you should "punch out the back of this box" with the needle nose. Those plastic tabs are intended to be pressed INTO the box with the Romex and grip and secure the Romex when it is inserted in the box. If you look closely at that tab, it has molded lines in it that are for gripping the Romex.
Also, a lot of electricians like to run the outlet boxes in a garage up around 48" above the floor, that way if things like plywood (4 foot wide) lawn mower, gas gas, etc. are below the outlets.
Great help thank you sir
Fantastic! I’m glad I could help! Thank you.
1:21:35 When labeling circuits, it's a good idea to note the cardinal location of area so that in the future, someone who (is not you) can know WHICH work station is number 1, and which one is number 2, etc. [IE: Workstation 1 (east) and Workstation 2 (west)]
The same thing can be said for rooms in a house. Just because one uses the North middle room as an office, doesn't mean a new occupant will use it as such, which in turn might confuse an electrician in the future (for a little bit) when new occupant says they want the nursery to get an upgrade, but it's labeled as "office" on the panel. Just a tip, take it with a grain of salt.
Some of us have it in our minds to think of the next person I think you shared a good tip. I like the way you said take it with a grain of salt at the end because you can't think of everything or we would be making these videos ourselves LOL
I still don't know where the "tractor" circuit goes.. nothing in the house that we can find turns on or off when it's disabled
Tremendous video, and a tremendous demonstration sir. Great video
If you're ever planning on actually doing work in the garage, you'll want a couple separate circuits. Depending on your vacuum system you might want that kept separate.
Wi-Fi access points should be ceiling mounted when possible. Also, if you plan on a man cave, be sure to run a couple Cat6 to where your TV will go, cable is useless unless you want a separate cable box there. Either way, run the Cat6. Run a Cat6 to anywhere you think you might need one as well. Cat7/8 can be used as well but being a shop... meh. You can install one of those ugly white boxes on/in your wall or run the wire to a central, accessible spot (make sure there's a connection to where the main house modem is using DB wire).
As a side note, I wonder how long it will be before they acknowledge running 14/2 to lighting, and those electrical boxes, is a waste....
As an ex datacom/telecom/electrician person, I would go with Cat 5E. Easier to deal with, cheaper, and can handle most installs fine, unless you are running extremely fast hubs and servers. But, that my opinion.
Quality content as usual, thanks for sharing your impressive knowledge and insights
Thank you so much! I am thankful for subscribers like you that tune in to watch and leave. Great comments. Good luck with your projects!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks, Cheers
Proper way to roll out romex is from the outside instead of the middle and when rolling out the Romex also step on it to keep it straight
Thanks for all your help
Is there anything you can't do.. I'm building my own home and i've watched all your videos.. Helped me so much Thanks
Great Video! Thanks for the time and effort. Simpliefies a few things and picked up a few tricks. One question I have, is about planning and drawing your plans. Saw a few quick screen shots but nothing too detailed. Is there an App/Program you use to layout your electrical?
Also, if anyone has suggestions for an easy to use Room/Garage layout and design, I'd love to hear.
Looking for something I can scan or input dimensions and then be able to draw /drop in dimensions for items both ON WALLS as WELL as FLOOR FOOTPRINT. Limited space so I am hoping to use drop tables and a french cleat wall to optimize my space and give me a table/mitre saw feed station.
Super video but ,be aware of something easy to check deeper into..
Not sure if it was mentioned but worth checking into folks... i didn't hear the excellent laborer talk about the receptacle type/rating when using #12 wire with 20 amp circuit.. In Canada{maybe USA too?} standard wall receptacle plugs are only rated at 15 amps..{but there is a heavier/different 20 amp wall receptacle available at extra $$} .ie: if a 12 gauge wire is used with a 20 amp breaker the 15 amp receptacle would not be heavy enough for the power supply that could be pulled through the receptacle by power hungry shop tool{s} on the same wall receptacle.
Thank you. God bless
Tanks for teaching
You are welcome!
Very Professionally done!
great video! very good job! I really like that you explain everything. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
very good little details ..thnks
using a 2-4 push (Ideal)wire connector will help a great deal in your box and not be so hard to deal with in a tight place and it's a lot faster!
Awesome video Josh!!!!! I love all of your videos! Fantastic job ❤❤
Nice bro, I learned a lot. Can't wait to see some more electrical work..
Most exelent sir thank you.
Very detailed and informative. Thank you!
excellent presentation
I have three outlets in my garage that are wired with 8g. For my welders and I used 12 g for everything else
Thank you so much for sharing !
Greetings from TX!
Excellent video! Thank you!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Thanks. I learned a lot. Can you please do a front porch concrete staircase repair where concrete is chipping off? I asked a contractor for my house and price given was something I cannot afford.
I found your channel when i did a google search for wiring my garage. This is a really good instructional video. Thank you. I do have a question for you and maybe i missed it in the video but when rewiring your detached garage, would you suggest using twisted wire or copper? The old copper is a bear to work with but i have heard that the new stuff is a lot easier.
Nice job explaining
Great video! “ question! What type of wire to hook up a 240 plug?? In my shop “ keep them coming! 👌👍
I am making a video about the 240 volt outlet and will have it posted next weekend. Stay tuned!
You’re great at videos man
Great video, thank you!
You are amazing man!
I’m just a carpenter that loves making videos. Thanks a lot!
Great information
Great job!
Thank you!
I gotta tell you this is great!
It’s not my work and I wouldn’t do it but to my knowledge those boxes specifically are designed to have the tab pushed in from behind so they grab the wire and prevent it from going into the wall. Designed after many house fires, ask the inspector though because I’m curious from their standpoint
Super helpful video, thanks!
Hey great video! Thank you for sharing. I've got a question about my Romex 14/2 black wire. I pulled out my light switch to change it for a new one and noticed that the black wire that's connected to the light switch, looks like it's clear coating is all wrinkled/ flaking. No copper is exposed. Would you know what would cause that? Should I be concerned?
Nice tutorial. Do you need to use staples when running wire above the rafters? Likewise in a crawl space, staples or drilling through the joists? I will be installing 4 exterior receptacles, GFCI, and runs will be in my crawl space.
Can you do a video of you installing the garage door and opener when you have time
Left out some rather important aspects.
You save money long term by using 12ga for 15 amp circuits and 10ga for 20 amp..line losses are less. It use to be about 3 years use to pay off the difference in cost, not sure of the current time.
The minimum is for safety, and used commercially due to cost. That doesn't make it the best long term.
There's also length of run losses. Voltage drop can have a significant impact on tool life (lower voltage requires higher amps for the same work)
I'm now going to hit the like button
The wife and I are electrical engineers. We designed, built, and wired our own home in 1984 with 12 AWG. We moved into our current home in 2000 designed by an architect with 14 AGW in 1967. We are putting up with dim bulbs when the vacuum is running.
So is what he said correct: That 12AWG is the only kind you can use with 20amp receptacles? I’m trying to upgrade my home. I currently have all 14AWG lines with some 15amp receptacles & some 20amp receptacles, but all my breakers are 20amp (except the electrical 40g water heater is on a 40amp “double” breaker)… I’d like to especially make sure my heavy appliances are getting proper electrical supply, like my refrigerator, chest freezer, microwave, natural gas forced air furnace, and window AC. They do all have their own, single, dedicated lines & breakers, except the furnace & window AC share a line because I don’t use both at the same time.
I had planned to replace all 15amp receptacles to go to all 20amp receptacles, but I thought they were okay with all the 14AWG lines. Do I need 12AWG with the 20amp receptacles???
@@AngelofOntario I heard the chief engineer once say, "The circuit breaker is sized to protect the wire". That means an overloaded 14AGW wire might get too hot before a 20 Amp breaker tripped.
@AngelofOntario yes...someone probably replaced the 15 Amp breakers with 20 amp. If the wire is 14 gauge, you need to put 15 Amp breakers on those circuits. A 20 Amp receptacle needs 12 gauge wire with 20 Amp breaker
Then you have bad grounds, garbage connections, or a bad breaker if it’s actually overloaded. Not necessarily the wrong size wire.
I usually make all receptacles double box. Metal with the mounting wings. That way the box is grounded, i can screw the wings to the studs with sheet rock screws For a more secure mechanical mounting, And they are actually cheaper than single box receptacles if you buy them in bulk.