couple of things that you overlooked. Use a breaker bar instead of beating on your wrench with a hammer. Proper tool for the job and all that. Always replace the retainer clips with new when replacing pads. Most pad sets come with the new clips. If not, spend the $9 and put in new clips. You didn't apply lube to the slide surfaces of the retainer clips. You didn't service the caliper slider pins which should always be done. Going to all the trouble of servicing the brakes, might as well get it done correctly. Only takes a few extra minutes.
Nicely done and thanks for taking the time to video the repair. I do have a couple concerns with you process, first, you should use new clips, most new pads come with them. 2nd, you did not lubricate the clips, floating pins that hold the pads to the bracket, 3rd, this really should be explained. Brake fluid is hydraulic fluid and when exposed the open air it will attract moisture which is absolutely a no no for a brake system. When compressing the brake piston open the bleeder valve and let the fluid out of the system, remember your are squeezing old fluid back into the line. When you have the piston compressed close the bleeder valve. When you have finished the brake job top off the brake reservoir with fresh fluid, no moisture, no problems.
Torque the bolts... add a little high temp brake grease on back of pads as well as sliding area on new hardware. Also good idea to use syringe to withdraw brake fluid from master cylinder so it does not overflow when squeezing brake cylinder. Brake fluid is toxic and must be dealt with carefully. Will burn off paint
Are you sure your dad made that caliper clamp? Looks pretty much like the one I bought at Harbor Freight a decade ago. 🤣 Thanks for the video though. Looks pretty much like a standard disc brake job.
You can jack up on the rear beam if uou have to for the back. Like an axle but not. In the front there are some thick plates right behind the wheels under the doors i believe. Thats what i use. Most people support under pinch weld with a small block of wood with a cut out in it so the pinch weld seam can sit in the groove of the block and not flatten over.
Do you have any other recommendations for getting those last two bolts out, the philips head ones, because I'm trying this and they're stuck in there good. I've sprayed wd-40 and no change. It's just getting stripped wheneveri try to get it out
If it goes too far you may have to drill them out with a much smaller drill bit. Youll probably find that once you get the bit in there and it gets hot it may backout if the hole is tight enough around the drill. The other less drastic option is to put a good sharp tip phillips head screwdriver in there and hit the handle with a hammer a few times. The idea is your breaking around all the threads loose and it may give you a better chance to bacl the screw out. Hope any of that helps!
Id go to advanced auto or auto zone. We got the cheapest ones. But they do make noise. Normally id go middle of the road. Since they are usually quiet. But my wife had gone and said just give me the cheapest. So id say go to autozone and just ask for middle of the road. Thanks for watching!
It should be exactly the same. The only reason mine has the tool is because of the "special" 18in rims. Any normal kia rims probably dont come with them.
Some rear brakes need the piston to be rotated back down using a special tool, not simply compressed using the clamp like the fronts. Might not be the case on this Soul, but may well be on newer ones....
Many aftermarket front rotors are incorrectly machined and do not allow the Brake Caliper Bracket to be in stalled. Incorrect machining of back set. Rotor thickness 0.925 from factory, aftermarket 1.025" also can impede installation. Using a C clamp, collapse the piston before removing from bracket. Rear Rotors are very different. Special tool for rotating and collapsing piston. When done, make 3 gentle stops from 25mph to seat new brake ass'ys.
Sold it off to a friend. It was too much of a project for me. Sad to say. Ill get another more complete in the future. But if you wanna see some more old datsun stuff check out my friends channel. Leonsgarageadventures on youtube. Hes got a 5.3 turbo ls in his 240z
@burningfeet 57 The screws are there for assembly purposes. You don't need them but it makes putting everything back together way easier. When it's all said and done, the lug nuts hold the wheel and the rotor in place.
Nanotuer that doesn't clean rust and lube all the moving parts. Another hack. Do it right or don't do it. Wow. Prep is 90 percent of the job being done right. The rest is nuts and bolts.
My dad came out and scolded me for this. That didn't make it in the video. I did it on that side, then went and got normal box end wrench's to beat on. Thanks for lookin out!
I had to stop watching. I mean, I couldn't see anything cuz this guy hates light. I'm sure he missed a bunch of stuff though. He just looks like he would have. Get yourself an impact wrench, they're time savers!
couple of things that you overlooked. Use a breaker bar instead of beating on your wrench with a hammer. Proper tool for the job and all that. Always replace the retainer clips with new when replacing pads. Most pad sets come with the new clips. If not, spend the $9 and put in new clips. You didn't apply lube to the slide surfaces of the retainer clips. You didn't service the caliper slider pins which should always be done. Going to all the trouble of servicing the brakes, might as well get it done correctly. Only takes a few extra minutes.
Just a simple video to help people change their brakes. why are there always some guys like you with all this little mealy mouth criticism.
It will be the first time changing breaks for me. All the stuff he just pointed out I had no idea about. That's why.
Rod Cosby are you related to Bill Cosby by any chance?👀
Chill Rod. The kid did good.
And a dab of anti seize on rotor screws wouldn't hurt. How many miles before rotor got scored? Mine has 92,000 and brakes still good
Thank you for this very informative instructional video. I think I'll be able to do this myself with your help. 😀 New sub. Thank you!
Probably one of the better I've watched... Thanks
Thank you. Glad i could help
Thanks for the video, gave me confidence that I can change my own brakes.
Nicely done and thanks for taking the time to video the repair. I do have a couple concerns with you process, first, you should use new clips, most new pads come with them. 2nd, you did not lubricate the clips, floating pins that hold the pads to the bracket, 3rd, this really should be explained. Brake fluid is hydraulic fluid and when exposed the open air it will attract moisture which is absolutely a no no for a brake system. When compressing the brake piston open the bleeder valve and let the fluid out of the system, remember your are squeezing old fluid back into the line. When you have the piston compressed close the bleeder valve. When you have finished the brake job top off the brake reservoir with fresh fluid, no moisture, no problems.
This sounds like it may need a short video by itself, especially for those not experienced with brake changes.
Great vid man! Super easy to follow. Subbed!
I was taught to always apply some anti-squeal compound to the backs of the new brake pads before putting the calipers back on.....
Torque the bolts... add a little high temp brake grease on back of pads as well as sliding area on new hardware. Also good idea to use syringe to withdraw brake fluid from master cylinder so it does not overflow when squeezing brake cylinder. Brake fluid is toxic and must be dealt with carefully. Will burn off paint
You need more lighting other wise great job
New subscriber. So awesome, thank you
Are you sure your dad made that caliper clamp? Looks pretty much like the one I bought at Harbor Freight a decade ago. 🤣
Thanks for the video though. Looks pretty much like a standard disc brake job.
Slide pins? Anti squeal? Grease? Blowing your piston seal from torquing the piston down so much?
Good stuff.. thanks for sharing..
where do you jack it up from and where do you put the jack stands? i am planning on replacing my brake pads soon
You can jack up on the rear beam if uou have to for the back. Like an axle but not. In the front there are some thick plates right behind the wheels under the doors i believe. Thats what i use. Most people support under pinch weld with a small block of wood with a cut out in it so the pinch weld seam can sit in the groove of the block and not flatten over.
I am about to attempt this good video.
You can do it. I believe in you!
can you tell me what size socket I need for the lug nuts, and the caliper bolts
I believe the lug nut size is a 19mm. And the caliper bolts are 14mm. Best of luck!
Good job but ever heard of torque values? As a maint. guy I always torque to bolts back to factory specs but if you don't know then...
Good N tight, them wheels aint going anywhere.
Do you have any other recommendations for getting those last two bolts out, the philips head ones, because I'm trying this and they're stuck in there good. I've sprayed wd-40 and no change. It's just getting stripped wheneveri try to get it out
If it goes too far you may have to drill them out with a much smaller drill bit. Youll probably find that once you get the bit in there and it gets hot it may backout if the hole is tight enough around the drill. The other less drastic option is to put a good sharp tip phillips head screwdriver in there and hit the handle with a hammer a few times. The idea is your breaking around all the threads loose and it may give you a better chance to bacl the screw out. Hope any of that helps!
PB Blaster works well also... Also, try an impact screwdriver tool....DO This before they get stripped !!!
Impact driver. The type you smack with a hammer.
In the rockauto website, the brake pads are cheaper but they arent from the Wagner brand, what do you recommend? I have 2012 kia soul
Id go to advanced auto or auto zone. We got the cheapest ones. But they do make noise. Normally id go middle of the road. Since they are usually quiet. But my wife had gone and said just give me the cheapest. So id say go to autozone and just ask for middle of the road. Thanks for watching!
the thing is I live in Puerto Rico, so prices will vary a lot
Would this be pretty similar for a 2013 kia soul? I know my lug nuts dont need a special unlock tool.
It should be exactly the same. The only reason mine has the tool is because of the "special" 18in rims. Any normal kia rims probably dont come with them.
Some rear brakes need the piston to be rotated back down using a special tool, not simply compressed using the clamp like the fronts. Might not be the case on this Soul, but may well be on newer ones....
Good Job Sir
Jacking point & placement of the jack stands needs to be better explained.
What size socket do you use for the lug nuts?
Thank you. Real big help!
Hey what's the name of this color? I really like it!
Kia calls ot the red rock edition. Its like a brown with gold metal flake.
Canyon. Btw. Canyon is the color
Great explanation, thank you !
Many aftermarket front rotors are incorrectly machined and do not allow the Brake Caliper Bracket to be in stalled.
Incorrect machining of back set. Rotor thickness 0.925 from factory, aftermarket 1.025" also can impede installation.
Using a C clamp, collapse the piston before removing from bracket. Rear Rotors are very different. Special tool for rotating and collapsing piston. When done, make 3 gentle stops from 25mph to seat new brake ass'ys.
Surperb Job!!! Thank You!
Thank you ☺️
Why did you replace the rotors instead of resurfaceing the old ones?
The fronts were super thin, they had already gone thru 2 sets of pads. Also everything new was only $220. So Meh why not right. Thanks for watching
I need to do the brakes on my mothers pontiac wave soon
Red rock edition!
You can use a c-clamp also to compress the caliper
Yeah, his dad made that tool. Probably cost more than just buying the right part
Emily Nicole Williams yeah but that tool is great! Wish I had one today 🤔
What happened to the 280z
Sold it off to a friend. It was too much of a project for me. Sad to say. Ill get another more complete in the future. But if you wanna see some more old datsun stuff check out my friends channel. Leonsgarageadventures on youtube. Hes got a 5.3 turbo ls in his 240z
You don't need the screws after removing them.
@burningfeet 57 The screws are there for assembly purposes. You don't need them but it makes putting everything back together way easier. When it's all said and done, the lug nuts hold the wheel and the rotor in place.
Nanotuer that doesn't clean rust and lube all the moving parts.
Another hack.
Do it right or don't do it. Wow.
Prep is 90 percent of the job being done right. The rest is nuts and bolts.
I always grease the back of my pads
nope not how to seat pads for breakin procedure.
Man get some light wtf
Dont be hittin' on your ratchet spanner mate..
My dad came out and scolded me for this. That didn't make it in the video. I did it on that side, then went and got normal box end wrench's to beat on. Thanks for lookin out!
I had to stop watching. I mean, I couldn't see anything cuz this guy hates light. I'm sure he missed a bunch of stuff though. He just looks like he would have. Get yourself an impact wrench, they're time savers!