Thanks for the info! I was interested in the clearance and mods that had to be made to fit. Cause I saw speed daddy they almost fit the same and I figured since these were more expensive they would be better fitment but seems like it is almost the same. Thank you!
np. These are probably the best headers you can get as far as fit/finish/ease of install. (Other than the dipstick tube problem) but, they're so expensive the dipstick tube problem shouldn't be a problem ya know? The speed daddy ones are a lot more difficult to install and requires a lot of modifying to get to fit. And have a weird dip at the bottom. The zzp dropped right in and cleared everything but the AT tube and 1/8" away from the fire wall (I had short dog bones so that explains the firewall clearance). It is miles better fit, but still not perfect. And for the cost, it should be perfect. Look up salemdoyle. He's got an in-depth video on the SD headers.
@@carnage50x oh forsure im going to look it up. I just ordered the stage 2 package from zzp. I can't wait till it arrives. Im definitely ready for some boost smalled pulley. I think after that i want a full 3" exhaust. Im like no more mod but is hard to stop. Ultimately would be nice headers, loweres some nice wheels and tyats it lol i know i would want more haha
@@Invasivesocalfor exhaust, the best bang for your buck and ease of install (exhaust wise) would be zzp front p-log and zzp 3" downpipe (catted or not doesn't matter, the highflow cat they use has next to no back pressure). The stock cat back can actually cope pretty well when making more power. The most restrictive sections in the factory exhaust is the downpipe section. Then after that it's the front manifold. Headers aren't really needed until 300whp mark (mileage will verify, some vehicles may be different). There's plenty of people down in the high 12's without headers. Good luck with yours 👍. Once you've been bitten with the 3800 bug it's hard to quite.
No clearance issues. I even have a full set of 4 fronts all around. There is a problem with w-body cars having excessive camber in the rear. Check for warn suspension components.
As for exhaust, I had zzp front p-log, 2.5in dp w/cat, factory cat-back. For the motor at the time of the video, I had 1.9 ratio rockers, #90 valve springs, 3.3 or 3.4 pulley I can't remember, autolite 104 plugs, fender well intake, short stack intercooler. I might be missing things. For your pulley size I'd scan for kr and watch your boost level. You want to be in the 8-9 psi area with no KR. As you increase flow (mow flow mow powa) boost will drop. Dropping pulley size to bring it back to 8-9psi. Being that you're pretty much stock. 3.6 should be safe but scan for kr
Man that's a clean beautiful car! More trouble than it's worth. These cars are perfect just the way they are. Of course, I'm 54 and most that do miss to they're car are youth's.
Same color as my GTP,
I love how clean the engine bay looks
Thank you.
This is a great vid. very interesting to see.
Just got my bonnie ssei ima follow this route. Great job at explaining and pointing out specifics
So this would apply to a 03 Buick LeSabre? Has a cat back exhaust, same 3800 series 2 engine, it's not supercharged yet
Is the LeSabre w-body? If so then yes.
so i already took the motor down to the block is it too late to jack it up? i'd rather not try to slither my way underneath
down to the block besides the rear manifold and head haha
Thanks for the info! I was interested in the clearance and mods that had to be made to fit. Cause I saw speed daddy they almost fit the same and I figured since these were more expensive they would be better fitment but seems like it is almost the same. Thank you!
np. These are probably the best headers you can get as far as fit/finish/ease of install. (Other than the dipstick tube problem) but, they're so expensive the dipstick tube problem shouldn't be a problem ya know?
The speed daddy ones are a lot more difficult to install and requires a lot of modifying to get to fit. And have a weird dip at the bottom. The zzp dropped right in and cleared everything but the AT tube and 1/8" away from the fire wall (I had short dog bones so that explains the firewall clearance). It is miles better fit, but still not perfect. And for the cost, it should be perfect.
Look up salemdoyle. He's got an in-depth video on the SD headers.
@@carnage50x oh forsure im going to look it up. I just ordered the stage 2 package from zzp. I can't wait till it arrives. Im definitely ready for some boost smalled pulley. I think after that i want a full 3" exhaust. Im like no more mod but is hard to stop. Ultimately would be nice headers, loweres some nice wheels and tyats it lol i know i would want more haha
@@Invasivesocalfor exhaust, the best bang for your buck and ease of install (exhaust wise) would be zzp front p-log and zzp 3" downpipe (catted or not doesn't matter, the highflow cat they use has next to no back pressure). The stock cat back can actually cope pretty well when making more power. The most restrictive sections in the factory exhaust is the downpipe section. Then after that it's the front manifold. Headers aren't really needed until 300whp mark (mileage will verify, some vehicles may be different). There's plenty of people down in the high 12's without headers. Good luck with yours 👍. Once you've been bitten with the 3800 bug it's hard to quite.
@@carnage50x thanks great info. Definitely ready for this build cant wait to see what the downpipe does to the car
Did you clamp your egr pipe off?
the law requires that I answer no.
I just put the same 18 gxp acola wheels on my 2000 Gtp and the back wheels only clear the spring by 1/8+
Did you do anything for clearance?
No clearance issues. I even have a full set of 4 fronts all around. There is a problem with w-body cars having excessive camber in the rear. Check for warn suspension components.
What mods did you have done before? I have zzp 2.5 inch cat back exhaust, along with cold air intake should I drop a pulley?
As for exhaust, I had zzp front p-log, 2.5in dp w/cat, factory cat-back. For the motor at the time of the video, I had 1.9 ratio rockers, #90 valve springs, 3.3 or 3.4 pulley I can't remember, autolite 104 plugs, fender well intake, short stack intercooler. I might be missing things.
For your pulley size I'd scan for kr and watch your boost level. You want to be in the 8-9 psi area with no KR. As you increase flow (mow flow mow powa) boost will drop. Dropping pulley size to bring it back to 8-9psi. Being that you're pretty much stock. 3.6 should be safe but scan for kr
Man that's a clean beautiful car! More trouble than it's worth. These cars are perfect just the way they are. Of course, I'm 54 and most that do miss to they're car are youth's.
Not sure how I missed this but thank you. I like things clean and factory looking.