Wife: wow about time you took those old window rattlers down.. hey I sure hope you have organised the new ones.... Mitsubitchi Industrial.. they use them in NT, Cairns Mackay and Townsville Australia its beefy and robust!! Timmy: Oh yeah sure.. [big smile, quickly looks away](fu..k, where's my phone)
FYI I PUT NOCTUA NH2 PASTE ON THE CPU DIE AND IHS BEFORE I DID THIS!!!¡!!!!!!!!! I also realize now that the single core scores are clearly thermal throttling which is weird as the multi-core scores are some of the best I've seen. I obviously need to work out the kinks or what's the point right? :)
It would be good if you could get it all properly worked out, but you definitely need to spend some decent time to get it working well. It's better to take longer to make a decent video than put out a complete fail where you are pissed off.
Why use anti-freeze and stuff? Just fill the thing with water and dump in 2 bottle of the cheapest vodka you can find, im pretty sure it will work just fine
Windshield washing fluid is perfect for this! It's based on water so you get the great heat transfer and thermal mass, and it can handle temperatures like -30C or even -50/70C if you get the good stuff.
It's hard to capsulate what this mans channel is all about. All I know is that when a new vid comes on as suggested..I click..I never leave disappointed.
You could try a 20/80 mix of coolant and water. Since 50/50 is typically used for automotive applications, I believe you would need a less viscous fluid for a computer. But I'm sure there's something cheaper and easier to use than engine coolant.
if you would have great insulation and you keep the chiller and pump in the next room by routing it through the wall, you could actually use it as a daily system. I would love to do that if I had the money to try.
Haha, not even close! My small phase cooler keeps sub-zero peak core temps (an FX-8350 at 1.7 Vcore will never go above 0c on the core, the hottest the block gets is -35c. Idle is -60c cooling block). It’s much more efficient, directly injects the Freon into the expansion cold block mounted on the CPU, so it’s much more compact, lighter, no chance of water leaks, no maintenance like flushing water or debris. You basically just take this project one small step forward using the same main parts like the compressor, but you get a whole lot colder for the same power input (meaning the overclocks are higher, and the CPU actually becomes noticeably more power efficient, hence chips on LN2 world records don’t pull nearly the power you would expect). My cooler was commercially available for consumers for a long time, I don’t know if you’ve heard of Asetech (the company that makes like 90% of AIO coolers), but they sold several different models of these all in one phase coolers (you can see an example that Lian Li, a computer case company, integrated in one of their case models that Linus reviewed, though that model was rather wimpy it still did sub-zero). Little Devil is another company that still makes these (even with duel evaporators for cooling both the CPU and GPU with one unit). You can also make them yourself. For example, I want -100c on TR-64 core when it comes out to use as my main daily machine, so for something that cold, I’ll have a multi-stage (“cascade cooler”) which is just like 2 or more units put in series with different coolants. For this special case (I don’t know of any made for Threadripper sized chips, they used to have some massive ones in the early days for server computers), I’ll just CNC my evaporator block (people have done this with a drill press, or even with angle grinders or just a metal box and some brazing/welding, people have made some incredibly ugly ones which just shows it will still work even if it’s sloppy).
7980xe owner here. my R15 single core is 223 that is at 5.0ghz. multi is just shy of 5000. i use direct die LM to Koolance block. Koolance high performance pump, 2 360rads (38mm thick, black ice rad??? if memory serves) with very high fin count and 6 panaflo 3000rpm 38mm thick fans in a 18C room. So long as i am not beating the tar out of it stress testing temps are typically in the low 80's under 100% cpu load. Problem with most water blocks if not all that have nickle plating for the LM not to soak in is they are not "true" meaning the center of the block is taller than the edges. So for what you are trying to do just use a copper block and sand it smooth, LM will work fine for a few days before you will have any issues with the LM drying up.
We don’t mind that you do advertisements man, we just enjoy the content. I’m sure we all understand the funds needed to do these things have to come from somewhere. thank you for continuing with the great videos!
if you not worry for the system cleaning in future, I consider submerge the whole system with evaporator radiator in oil tank , then no need to worry for condensation or using any pumps but you need to use a heat sink on cpu to directly dissipate heat to the chilly delicious oil .
Just buy an aquarium water chiller like me, something like a Hailea HC300 off of eBay used can be had for £200, the only thing you need extra is the pump ( I just used a regular PC water cooling pump housed inside PC). The units have built in thermostats that self regulate the fluid temp that can be set by user, there is also a way to mod the units to force it always being on for extreme benchmarking sessions by shorting the thermostat with a switch. I've been using my Hailea HC300 24/7 since X99 era (5820k, 6800k, TR 1950x, i7-8086k and now i9-9900k), sits under my PC desk on the floor connected to a full custom loop, my 1080Ti never goes above 22c under load. Edit: if you make your ice box air tight your pump will have an easier time pumping the glycol due to the pressure. If the glycol is still too thick for the pump you can mix it with water to thin it out.
Hey I am about to do the same thing your doing I got the active aqua aach25hp hydroponic water chiller just curious on a reservoir will any be fine like a 70$ one ?
@@MustardGamings I dont use a resevoir in my loop, the chiller has a small tank area where the water passes through/stored to be chilled. Of course you can use another res somewhere in the loop so you have a little bit of a "thermal buffer" as the chiller will cycle on and off to regulate temps. You'd probably do good to insulate the resevoir if you do add use though.
@@MustardGamings You should be able to set the water chiller to a certain temp, the chiller will cycle on and off as it tries to keep the water at the temp that you set the unit at.
No point in ice, it’s hotter than the coolant... Timmy, please dump your morning coffee into it since we are suggesting ideas, the caffeine is what it needs to wake up those clocks!
I think your heads in the right place some things you could try... start with pure water and add glycol to it... glycol is there as a lubricant anti-foaming agent and to stop a liquid from freezing. I would think The Sweet Spot would probably be around 20% glycol. you could also use water wetter (if its not going to freeze). I've always wanted to build a CPU Cooler but use R22 R134a as the coolant. I'm an automotive tech and I've used the stuff for decades and it's not hard to use. You just need a vacuum pump once you get the system setup pull all the air out and then fill it. I think it would work amazing. Cuz then you could get the phase-change right before it hits the CPU and it would be so cold. Like ‐30c. All you need is a compressor TXV valve small dryer... and a radiator. You could also make the system way smaller you don't need that big old tub and compressor you could use like a 340 mm radiator. I've done a little bit of research and I can't find a compressor small enough to fit in a chassis. A small dryer that's easy... a small TXV valve...easy.
Insulating your hoses will improve efficiency and save your components from condensation, also changing to a solid possibly copper tubing, although copper would oxidize over time.
I used to experiment with aquarium stuff 18+ yrs bk when it's all we had. I essentially parked my bench up against a 40gl salt water cold tank with a high flow spill over pump spread out wide. Dropping ice cubes as needed but it took way long to heat it up. I had nothing then to compare it to but I wonder how it would do today if modernized to new tech. I used external 8 pass copper / brass radiators in Pair w/ single quiet 12" fans. It cooled a complete ASUS P4C800D-E Deluxe Canterwood i875P w/ OC'd Northwood P4 2.4c to 4GHz (3.73GHz on air when ThermalRight Ultra 120 came out. By the time X38 & QX9775 duals came out I had modern off the shelf to work w/. Was just fun to build.
Yes, use the car coolant, it's what I have been using in my custom loop since 04 with no issue. EDIT: I use the type B inhibitor which the particular brand I got states 5% to distilled water, most brands state 10-15%. I am not sure if it has much antifreeze properties or not but anti corrosion and material comparability is outstanding, btw I have mixed metals, aluminium, SS, nickel, gold and brass, not have show signs of corrosion. Only done 3 coolant changes on the same loop I have reused on multiple systems over the years since I bought it in 04. Last change was in 2013. Highly recommend this as a coolant for PC builds.
Check out peristaltic pumps, aka dosing/metering pumps. They work by essentially squeezing the tubes like you would a tube of toothpaste to push liquid through. The peristaltic pump has a number of advantages; firstly, the internals of the pump never come in contact with the fluid, so they are extremely reliable and can run for ages without having to worry about corrosion or debris. They also have an extremely accurate and consistent flow rate that can be controlled easily with a PWM flow controller. They are used all throughout the scientific and medical community because of this. Lastly, they can be run with relatively little noise. Best of luck!
Use car anti freeze diluted with water. I am a HVAC tech for over 20 years. Low humidity chillers run on a mix of glycol and water. You might have to play with the concentration but I would start at like 50/50.
What you wanna do is wire in a simple thermistor relay circuit to the power supply of the AC unit. You should be pretty easily able to have it so the AC unit only comes on when the temperature of the coolant goes above a certain temperature. Say 10 degrees c etc.... that way you avoid the risk of condensation and frost etc and can ditch the antifreeze.
Instead of taking apart the air conditioner, have you thought of trying to build aninsulated computer enclosure or maybe a large insulated radiator enclosure with the air conditioner mounted to the side for the input and output vents in the top, mount several rads inside with fans on the rads, and the input and output tubes from the computer case going into the enclosure to the rads? Just wondering how that would work.
that stuff you're using is for putting buildings sprinkler systems or heating systems in a storage state .it's not meant to be flowed.if you don't have enough water mixed it will not release the heat
Great Video! That spider at 1:37 :D I laughed so hard. I can't stand spiders.. I react the same way you did.. I hope to see more work on this project soon. Subbed.
the fuel filter is definitely slowing down the flow, maby get a y fitting on the end that goes into the tank and have 2 filters going into the main tube to make sure you are getting as much flow as possible.
This was so much fun to watch! thanks man! I dont have experience in CPU Cooling DIY Chillers, but I do currently have a successful DIY cooling system on my laser machine by means of 3 x Peltier blocks mounted onto heatsinks (hot and cold side, with the cold side heatsink larger than the heat side heatsink.)I submerged the cold heatsink into a 150 litre water tank and have 12v water pump connected at 1400l/ph. Everyone who are supposed to be 'Pro's' that I engaged on my mission, advised me it could not be done....well well! I have been running close to 3 years off of the same system and to this day, I had no issues whatsoever.(but hell did I go through some trial and error phases!!!?) Here is what I have learned: Have a big water tank...much bigger than the cooler box you used in the video. I found that the water heats up much too fast (on the laser) after 1hour of use. I nearly gave up on the Peltier experiment, then I thought of using an excessively large container for the water. Sure it takes a while for the water to cool down (2hours) but once it is cold, I can run the laser between 70 and 90% for 8 hours straight, and have the water (controlled) running stable at 17.5 to 18 degrees. If I switch the thermostat off, the water cools down to 7 degrees Celsius and I live in South Africa where the average day is 34 degrees Celsius. Anyway, I think your setup will work just fine.....once you use a larger tank and as you said, maybe bigger waterpumps. Don't give up, I sense you are about to reach that Eureka moment! i believe in you 😉
Haha good video man, sucks it was a difficult project but it looks like you learned a lot in the process. Keep the videos coming, excited for version 2 of this
You can use any kind of automotive or marine grade antifreeze but you have to use a lot of distilled water to get any decent heat transfer. Around 75% water / 25% antifreeze is a good starting point.
I had one in my last PC and overclocked it. With a Corsair H60, I was able to do 4.8GHZ without getting too hot. Just a quick tip. Without load-line calibration turned to ultra, it ran games without a sweat, but would crash just when using chrome or while writing papers. So, I thought it couldn't handle the overclock. I reduced the overclock, and only realized my mistake right before I upgraded. If you have a 990x chipset, ultra load-line calibration should not be a problem. Hope this helps.
That should be very easy, they are very easy to cool (120mm AIO for 4.8 GHz), with a small phase cooler I topped out my boards voltage unfortunately at just 1.7 Vcore (it was a $40 board in 2015, cheapest I could get new, only a 4 phase VRM and micro-ATX but it supported Crossfire/SLI and 4 sticks of RAM, so great value board). I’m just stuck at 5.5 GHz with sub-zero core temps at peak (at the 350w load it’s pulling, and yes it got way more efficient from the cold, it has a block temp of -35c). So I’m just severely voltage limited, but it does alright, like 870cb with underclocked 1416 MHz memory (at XMP 1600 latencies, I just didn’t bother changing it from the FSB of 236 and 6x RAM multi = 1416) You might as well do the full conversion with the cooling block, mine gets as low as -60c during idle. Plus you don’t have the pump issues, or the enormous size and insanely slow cool down times with gallons of coolant, and you won’t have potential water leaks or the insane weight or desk space that thing will take up (Timmy now has to sleep on the floor, it took up his whole bed!). Plus it’s way more power efficient, you’re using the same pump but you get way colder temps, which also means way bigger overclocks.
Lawrence Timme I think my chip was shit. Only got 4.4GHz with a H90 AIO. Temps were never the problem, also my motherboard was AsRock 970 Extreme 4, not a 990FX.
Slower pump, so the extreme cold fluid has time to transfer heat with the CPU (temp in and Temp out of the CPU you want to see a 5 or more degrees difference in temps. If you where looking at temps well over 212 degr3ees F (100 degrees C), I would also suggest a fully closed and pressurised cooling cool (like a combustion engine), as every PSI of increased pressure within this closed loop equals 3 degrees F higher boiling point, but with a CPU cooler, if your seeing heat like this, it's time to throw the lot into the bin anyway... Something you could think about for your next project, pumping almost ice-cold liquid or mineral oil through radiators at the front and top, and using fans at the back of the PC to create an internal vaccuum, therefore drawing ambient air through the radiators, cooling the air substantially, and then having this cold air guided through the head shields, and over the components to cool them before being expelled out of the case as it warms up again (sort of like an Air Conditioned case)...
Purchase a coolents that is cat ec1 certified. It's made for diesel coolent systems . It's not expensive . It's simply designed for extremely long long life performance without cavitation , icing, deteriorating, or wearing out coolents pumps . Just ask your local parts house guy for peak brand heavy duty vehicle premixed "50/50". That "50 /50" is an industrial accepted term for ,"do not add water ! ". It's actually 0% water. Just check the back of the jug for that certification.
You can get detergent free washer fluid. like -20 or lower, that has methanol in it. Methanol does not free until -142.7f. Its also kinda flammable, thats why you can inject it in your engine and make more power and lower egt's
If you're using automotive coolant and cooling it to -12, you'll definitely have some gelling at a 50/50 ratio, there are articles you can find about the proper ratios to have in different temp environments, like alaska if i remember right you're supposed to run a 70/30 water/antifreeze mix, because at such low temps the antifreeze will gel. Surely the liquid coolant designed for PC's would be safer for the PC though as it's designed to not cause a short in the event of a leak. How that fluid would perform at sub zero temps is another thing though! Furthermore I feel like condensation could be a huge issue that's difficult to address here. Insulating the inlet/outlet lines may help, but i feel like the best option would involve a full encasement of the entire PC in a vacuum chamber would eliminate the presence of humidity/air to condensate, but how one would go about pulling off such a system is beyond me! Perhaps fully immersing the PC in non-conductive fluid, which is cycled through a secondary ac?
glycol changes heat exchange rates and viscosity. as an HVAC tech this is interesting and this could work great great but it would be expensive to get proper hardware and a lot of work. using proper heat exchangers would be ideal. using components from a water source heat pump would likely be a good start. a snail coil would work well in place of a cooler. Also side note the EPA is on its way to find that missing refrigerant... lmao!
You need an Iwaki pump, like a D30 or more, also you need to insulate the shit out of all the lines, as well as the reservoir, that will improve Temps (also yes, submerg the condenser rad). Also you can mix methanol in with the antifreeze, but you'll want to use completely metal blocks, as the methanol will eat away at Acetal/Plexi, that will lower the viscosity of the fluid.
This experiment takes me back to the AMD Thunderbird and P4 days with TEC's and fridge motors. 😎 Instead of wasting energy(heat exchanging), you should just engineer a block in-line on the gas's liquid state side of the compressors phase-change piping. Far more efficient, but you REALLY need to cover the mobo and tubing with neo-prane and a heating pad with Vasaline all round the CPU socket, and Vasaline all over any nearby expansion slots and RAM slots(don't worry, you can run the mobo in the dishwasher on a milder setting with other stuff above it(water jet damage)), and obviously get the gas replenished by an engineer. Use good quality car/motorcycle brake/re-enforced fuel pipe attached to the copper pipe after flanging/flaring(you can probably get a good quality tool from China now-a-days) the ends well so you don't have to use too much clamping force that'll collapse/crush the copper piping. I would also get a better quality filter core drier for the AC unit as it'll help get a better flow rate without costing too much. Keep it coming bud!!👍
Not sure if its possible but what I wanted to see was using the actual coolant lines from the A/C and hooking them up to the block instead of the cold side radiator.
Damn dude, a little warning before the arachnophobic overload! As soon as I saw all those webs in the window, and especially once you pulled up the AC unit itself I was thinking to myself: "Self, where is what must be by now, a MASSIVE frickin' spider that no doubt spent ages building that ginormous web around that air conditioner? I am certain that it must be residing nearby..."; then BOOM, frickin' Spiderzilla crawls out of the thing and falls out of the bottom of my monitor and right onto my lap (in my mind this happened; I literally jumped) and I hear you make a rather high-pitched sound not dissimilar from the sound that I made (except mine was much 'manlier' of course, and also far louder...and by 'manlier' I mean about 12 octaves higher with much more of a timid 'squeely' sound in my voice as I basically shrieked in absolute terror. I also think I might have wet myself a little bit. But just a little bit (the puddle isn't THAT big). Yeah, I really can't express just how much I hates me some spiders. I swear, if those little horrifying bastards ever evolve flight, we're all screwed! Just imagine flying spiders, like big ass hairy tarantulas with frickin' BAT wings! Are you scared yet? Yeah, you can thank me for basically destroying any chances you had of getting any sleep tonight. Evolution happens people! Bats eat bugs, bats fly! Why wouldn't our web-wielding, world wandering, fang flailing, long-legged, line-laying arachnoid nemeses be capable of doing the same? Heck, don't some species of spider actually build little 'parachutes'/'para-sails' out of their webbing to take to the winds? Wings are only a small step up in the natural scheme of things. Heck, if you think about it, with their 8 long legs sticking out the sides of their bodies, if they just figured out a way to weave webs thickly between them while still retaining some flexibility, they'd basically have little controllable web-wings with which to terrify our unfriendly skies!
dude just use strightup vodka in your loop corrosion inhibitors aren't needed for short periods .... less than a week. vodka is actually a good coolant because its low surface tension. lower viscosity makes it easier to pump it to, mechanical engineer here :) think 2 handles of cheap vodka will do you with your set up. what you really need to do is keep your working fluid separate from your water cooler fluid. i've been working on a similar system for this winter using an old whole house central air evaporator as the rad.
Dont use washer fluid. Car coolant, if you want short term use get something for new cars and if for long term use something for older cars. Mixture should be as light as possible, so if your cooler goes for -15c try going with -20-25c mixture as coolant resists freezing but lower the heat transfere capasity. PC pump should be enough as there is only so much you can push trough the heatsink. But you want to have reservoir output trough the bottom for max flow and use bigger hose to pump so you get max flow and static preasure, after pump 10-11 mm inner diameter hose to keep flow at stable amount as g1/4 treads are limiting the imput trough the system.
you know? i laughed at the spider part... but i also react in the exact same way, even with the nervous laugh... its like watching myself find a spider in the bed all again....
nice hack job, but the proper way to do this is with a tig welding chiller. They have approximately the right capacity in watts as the most powerful (watts) an overclocked computer would have. You would prolly need to seperate the coolant system of the computer with the coolant system of the chiller via a plate heat exchanger. They have companies that make plate heat exchangers to spec for around 100$ for the beer making industry and tig welding chillers are around 4 to 500$. Just a rough calculation on the small plate heat exchanger puts the size around 3" by 8" brazed copper. Just to be safe I would prolly insulate all the tubing and reservoir of the computer coolant system tubing to keep the potential of condensation down but you could also set up a temperature control system based on surface temperatures of the chilled water on the computer side and the ambient air relative humidity to keep the system from reaching dew point. This would prolly best be controlled by throttling the primary side of the plate heat exchanger pump.
I would have started with taping a radiator from a closed loop with long tubes directly to the AC, then probably would have tried to loop the cold side of the AC to get even lower temps, less destructive, still kicks the heat outside and something more people could try.
Use a air stone inside the cooler to circulate fluid through the rad. Also..see if you can get some foam insulating tube covers in a small enough diameter to run from cooler to block..this will help with condensation.
Just a thought... Why not try and get those little refrigeration systems off AliExpress... Also instead of using the air-conditoner use a camp fridge freezer for your heat exchanger... Using coiled copper tubing to increase the surface area (depending on the size tube). The other idea was to do a diy refrigeration system using simple 12volt compressor etc... But honestly I'd use the camp fridge freezer setup... The thermostat will be able to go lower than the air con. For your idea for a pump... A canister filter for an aquarium would be good... I've one here that does 2500 Litres and hour .. replace the filter material and it might help trap sediment... Anyway bud, love the videos.
Find a way to mount the motherboard Upside-Down & Flat that way no Sweat will bead onto the Board or other Components. you Might even want to keep the Coolant & use an Additive like this HY-PER COOL SUPER COOLANT (HPC100) for the Anti Freeze. Put an Internal Pre Filter in too, inside the tank something you can easily clean.
LTT uses rainX. What you should do is build a mount for it to be out the window and the fluid be held in a sealed box. Then have a plug and play (Quick release hoses) munted in the window you can just unplug a loop and plug another right in. then have all of the ugliness outside.
Lucky you the cpu and motherboard still working anything under ambient will start water condensation around the cpu socket and inside as well you need Vaseline inside the socket and around the cpu area and also insulate the waterblock and the tubes with foam
Woah... i have been thinking this as a project since 2015. And this is such an underrated video. RUclips should have recommended this on other search results that connnects with pc cooling or pc cooler. Still, nice video and concept of pc cooling engineering... for me taking engineering course, this video of yours gives me hope and potential that i could pull off the same feat as yours and make my own build too..👏👏👏🤘🤘🤘.
you could just get a big 480 rad or something, put them together and have a fan pushing on one side and pulling on the other side. just run through both rads. if that doesnt work well and it has to be liquid then washer fluid makes sense. its mostly methanol. washer fluid might have a touch of detergent in it but ist mostly just water and methanol. im mean in summer most people just use water adn in winter you use this stuff so it wont freeze. pure methanol or ethanol migth work well too. denatured alcohol can be bought cheap. or a couple gallons of ever clear liquor lol. maybe add a bit of water for better heat transfer. edit: oh it was a blockage. i thought the fulid was just too think from being cold
A/c system can end up not working correctly after extended use with this kind of setup. The evaporator coil is supposed to let the freon build superheat, keeping liquid refrigerant from flooding back to the compressor and damaging it. Also keeping the unit from freezing up but I guess that doesn't really apply in your case.
I like that u do projects on a level of skill and low budget that anyone could do with a little dedication. I hope that your channel holds that same tradition as it grows. Linus would of spent 30 grand to make this video.
You're talking about Linus, right? I seem to recall him pulling out a rig like this around Threadripper (which actually came from way before, he just brought it back out for a special video then I believe). I'm sure there's info about doing this in a way that works out there on some forum somewhere. There's gotta be some good posts from individuals who have actually done this.
You need more flow for better heat transfer You need a pump with more flow but that can sustain the same static pressure. A better filtration system (the water filters that you put in the water tap, they are bigger and better for water mixtures) Thermal paste like the Hydronaut, the grease type And a thinner coolant, ethanol and water, if you want just buy distilled water and ethanol and mix it for the antifreeze effect
How about trying to use one of those stand alone outside units for perhaps split air conditioners and directly hooking up the gas outputs to a cpu block ?
Windshield washing fluid [like actually the CHEAPEST stuff you can find] will just be water and methanol [check the ingredients] and is capable of withstanding lower temperatures than Antifreeze and water. Also, have you de-lidded the CPU?
3D print a tray for the RAD with a grate in it to filter and make laminar flow with a baffle. Once built the 3d printed chamber unit should contain RAD and fluid but fit sealed entirely into the chest for insulation. the rad itself becomes the filter and you get 100% efficiency from the RAD.
Dude, youve got my suscription after seeing this. I did just the same zome years ago... maybe 13 with a asus commando and a core 2 duo e 8400. I had similar problems as you had, and what I did was use a 220v pump so I can plug it directly to the wall and much more power, I also used a better fluid, look for the best fluid for cars, like -30 degrees or something like that, and it will be more liquid at those temperatures. I also used a 220v sunon fan with metal frame for the air cooling attempts but that was even dangerous hahahah I still have all my finger though lol. Good luck for the next try, I'll be here looking :) love this madness
Hi Tim! You definitely can try phase-change cooling solutions with this broken ac, you must build vapor chamber for cpu and /or for gpu, this is for more permanent setup and most harder to do good. In YT is video from Bulgaria showing this for Athlonx2 in am2 socket, maybe you can rent some ideas from this video.
You can just look at the commercially available units for better ideas since they are fairly optimized and developed (like from Asetech, the AIO manufacturer had several, Little Devil is another company that makes as you mentioned cooling block for both the CPU and GPU on one unit). Timmy doesn’t have the skills required for duel evap loads, this simple tank cooler was rather embarrassing since these are so simple and he couldn’t figure out basic logic and reasoning skills, and you need problem solving skills for complex coolers. So I recommend that he at least tries, but definitely just do single block since if this project was any any way difficult, then the chance of success is going way down for anything more complex than bare minimum, as they say, “practice simple first”, get that down and then maybe add a second block. You can also occasionally find the cooling blocks on places like eBay, but it’s very rare.
Timmyjoe you never cease to amaze me man... Your content is awesome... Your a genius mam... Thanks for the great content man.... Always entertaining and informative....
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
Wife comes home. "TJ, why is it so F'ing hot in here"? "Where the hell did all the window units go"?
This.
Wife: wow about time you took those old window rattlers down.. hey I sure hope you have organised the new ones.... Mitsubitchi Industrial.. they use them in NT, Cairns Mackay and Townsville Australia its beefy and robust!!
Timmy: Oh yeah sure.. [big smile, quickly looks away](fu..k, where's my phone)
i realize it's kinda off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream newly released series online?
Canadian Tire better be at Computex next year with a pc case designed by the famous overclocker Der Timmy
First day pre-order for me.
@@chipminion7887 0-day preorder for me lol
@@chipminion7887 Canadian Tire already gets too much of my money. That store is like a drug addiction.
FYI I PUT NOCTUA NH2 PASTE ON THE CPU DIE AND IHS BEFORE I DID THIS!!!¡!!!!!!!!! I also realize now that the single core scores are clearly thermal throttling which is weird as the multi-core scores are some of the best I've seen. I obviously need to work out the kinks or what's the point right? :)
Timmy you need MultiTherm 550® Heat Transfer Fluid
Heat Transfer Fluid for Closed-Loop Heat Transfer Fluid Systems
It would be good if you could get it all properly worked out, but you definitely need to spend some decent time to get it working well. It's better to take longer to make a decent video than put out a complete fail where you are pissed off.
would it not be better pulling a mini fridge apart to cool water then pump that around
WHy are you using noctua paste... certain pastes don't work well at lower temps
@@justaman5418 I think the internals are pretty much the same.
Why use anti-freeze and stuff? Just fill the thing with water and dump in 2 bottle of the cheapest vodka you can find, im pretty sure it will work just fine
It'll freeze at a certain point. Antifreeze is fairly cheap.
@@Bonswally not at this temp.... but cheap vodka is way more than the antifreeze
@@Bonswally hahahahahahahahahaha damn fool vodka will keep you lean and cool 80%proof = till around -25c
@@Xtremedarkjoy We're talking about using a mixture of cheap vodka and water, which will freeze. Pay attention son.
@@Bonswally water?where? Water is evil I only know vodka
You will still have - 15c to play with
Windshield washing fluid is perfect for this!
It's based on water so you get the great heat transfer and thermal mass, and it can handle temperatures like -30C or even -50/70C if you get the good stuff.
Done it a couple times.. really is fun.. just becareful for the condensation slacker!!!!
You have to have a beard for safety purposes before you attempt this
Timothy Bilotta need like 5 haha
Hhoho 2 legends at one place
It's hard to capsulate what this mans channel is all about. All I know is that when a new vid comes on as suggested..I click..I never leave disappointed.
I think its pretty clear that its about computer parts and stuff ... on the internet!
I get the same idea.. some people write stuff down and go from there, and some sorta write an outline and some just don't..
You could try a 20/80 mix of coolant and water. Since 50/50 is typically used for automotive applications, I believe you would need a less viscous fluid for a computer. But I'm sure there's something cheaper and easier to use than engine coolant.
yeah you only need a bit of anitfreeze in it to keep it from freezing unless you're going like -50c or less
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this or not but Liquid metal is not good at sub freezing temperatures. The colder you get it the worse it performs.
Gotta give u props for going through all that trouble to give us another. You deserve more love man. Love ur channel!
Chiller needs more RGB
+1
😂
if you would have great insulation and you keep the chiller and pump in the next room by routing it through the wall, you could actually use it as a daily system. I would love to do that if I had the money to try.
I have to admit, this is the coolest project you have done. This SHOULD be the best cooling system possible outside industrial stuff.
Haha, not even close! My small phase cooler keeps sub-zero peak core temps (an FX-8350 at 1.7 Vcore will never go above 0c on the core, the hottest the block gets is -35c. Idle is -60c cooling block). It’s much more efficient, directly injects the Freon into the expansion cold block mounted on the CPU, so it’s much more compact, lighter, no chance of water leaks, no maintenance like flushing water or debris. You basically just take this project one small step forward using the same main parts like the compressor, but you get a whole lot colder for the same power input (meaning the overclocks are higher, and the CPU actually becomes noticeably more power efficient, hence chips on LN2 world records don’t pull nearly the power you would expect). My cooler was commercially available for consumers for a long time, I don’t know if you’ve heard of Asetech (the company that makes like 90% of AIO coolers), but they sold several different models of these all in one phase coolers (you can see an example that Lian Li, a computer case company, integrated in one of their case models that Linus reviewed, though that model was rather wimpy it still did sub-zero). Little Devil is another company that still makes these (even with duel evaporators for cooling both the CPU and GPU with one unit).
You can also make them yourself. For example, I want -100c on TR-64 core when it comes out to use as my main daily machine, so for something that cold, I’ll have a multi-stage (“cascade cooler”) which is just like 2 or more units put in series with different coolants. For this special case (I don’t know of any made for Threadripper sized chips, they used to have some massive ones in the early days for server computers), I’ll just CNC my evaporator block (people have done this with a drill press, or even with angle grinders or just a metal box and some brazing/welding, people have made some incredibly ugly ones which just shows it will still work even if it’s sloppy).
7980xe owner here. my R15 single core is 223 that is at 5.0ghz. multi is just shy of 5000. i use direct die LM to Koolance block. Koolance high performance pump, 2 360rads (38mm thick, black ice rad??? if memory serves) with very high fin count and 6 panaflo 3000rpm 38mm thick fans in a 18C room. So long as i am not beating the tar out of it stress testing temps are typically in the low 80's under 100% cpu load. Problem with most water blocks if not all that have nickle plating for the LM not to soak in is they are not "true" meaning the center of the block is taller than the edges. So for what you are trying to do just use a copper block and sand it smooth, LM will work fine for a few days before you will have any issues with the LM drying up.
We don’t mind that you do advertisements man, we just enjoy the content. I’m sure we all understand the funds needed to do these things have to come from somewhere. thank you for continuing with the great videos!
if you not worry for the system cleaning in future, I consider submerge the whole system with evaporator radiator in oil tank , then no need to worry for condensation or using any pumps but you need to use a heat sink on cpu to directly dissipate heat to the chilly delicious oil .
Just buy an aquarium water chiller like me, something like a Hailea HC300 off of eBay used can be had for £200, the only thing you need extra is the pump ( I just used a regular PC water cooling pump housed inside PC). The units have built in thermostats that self regulate the fluid temp that can be set by user, there is also a way to mod the units to force it always being on for extreme benchmarking sessions by shorting the thermostat with a switch.
I've been using my Hailea HC300 24/7 since X99 era (5820k, 6800k, TR 1950x, i7-8086k and now i9-9900k), sits under my PC desk on the floor connected to a full custom loop, my 1080Ti never goes above 22c under load.
Edit: if you make your ice box air tight your pump will have an easier time pumping the glycol due to the pressure. If the glycol is still too thick for the pump you can mix it with water to thin it out.
Hey I am about to do the same thing your doing I got the active aqua aach25hp hydroponic water chiller just curious on a reservoir will any be fine like a 70$ one ?
@@MustardGamings I dont use a resevoir in my loop, the chiller has a small tank area where the water passes through/stored to be chilled. Of course you can use another res somewhere in the loop so you have a little bit of a "thermal buffer" as the chiller will cycle on and off to regulate temps. You'd probably do good to insulate the resevoir if you do add use though.
@@AndyBradley1984 ty
@@AndyBradley1984 dry to bug you again, but how do you prevent the system cycling from the water temperature if it doesnt need to be cooled
@@MustardGamings You should be able to set the water chiller to a certain temp, the chiller will cycle on and off as it tries to keep the water at the temp that you set the unit at.
Do this to the 5700XT I wanna see how far that card will go and you should add ice to the ac container
No point in ice, it’s hotter than the coolant... Timmy, please dump your morning coffee into it since we are suggesting ideas, the caffeine is what it needs to wake up those clocks!
Watching you dive in with no plan is half the fun :)
I think your heads in the right place some things you could try... start with pure water and add glycol to it... glycol is there as a lubricant anti-foaming agent and to stop a liquid from freezing. I would think The Sweet Spot would probably be around 20% glycol. you could also use water wetter (if its not going to freeze). I've always wanted to build a CPU Cooler but use R22 R134a as the coolant. I'm an automotive tech and I've used the stuff for decades and it's not hard to use. You just need a vacuum pump once you get the system setup pull all the air out and then fill it. I think it would work amazing. Cuz then you could get the phase-change right before it hits the CPU and it would be so cold. Like ‐30c. All you need is a compressor TXV valve small dryer... and a radiator. You could also make the system way smaller you don't need that big old tub and compressor you could use like a 340 mm radiator. I've done a little bit of research and I can't find a compressor small enough to fit in a chassis. A small dryer that's easy... a small TXV valve...easy.
I thought liquid metal is not good for sub zero cooling. Maybe try thermal paste on the die and IHS. Cool video
I removed it before I did this sorry I even filmed it and forgot to include it
@@TimmyJoePCTech Thermal grizzly Cryonaut is made for sub zero. Have you tried it?
Insulating your hoses will improve efficiency and save your components from condensation, also changing to a solid possibly copper tubing, although copper would oxidize over time.
I used to experiment with aquarium stuff 18+ yrs bk when it's all we had. I essentially parked my bench up against a 40gl salt water cold tank with a high flow spill over pump spread out wide. Dropping ice cubes as needed but it took way long to heat it up. I had nothing then to compare it to but I wonder how it would do today if modernized to new tech. I used external 8 pass copper / brass radiators in Pair w/ single quiet 12" fans. It cooled a complete ASUS P4C800D-E Deluxe Canterwood i875P w/ OC'd Northwood P4 2.4c to 4GHz (3.73GHz on air when ThermalRight Ultra 120 came out. By the time X38 & QX9775 duals came out I had modern off the shelf to work w/. Was just fun to build.
In the refrigeration and AC industry there are components there are designed for heat transfer from water to water, you might want to look into that .
Yes, use the car coolant, it's what I have been using in my custom loop since 04 with no issue.
EDIT:
I use the type B inhibitor which the particular brand I got states 5% to distilled water, most brands state 10-15%. I am not sure if it has much antifreeze properties or not but anti corrosion and material comparability is outstanding, btw I have mixed metals, aluminium, SS, nickel, gold and brass, not have show signs of corrosion. Only done 3 coolant changes on the same loop I have reused on multiple systems over the years since I bought it in 04. Last change was in 2013. Highly recommend this as a coolant for PC builds.
Even if it's not a super successful video, you entertained me!
Check out peristaltic pumps, aka dosing/metering pumps. They work by essentially squeezing the tubes like you would a tube of toothpaste to push liquid through. The peristaltic pump has a number of advantages; firstly, the internals of the pump never come in contact with the fluid, so they are extremely reliable and can run for ages without having to worry about corrosion or debris. They also have an extremely accurate and consistent flow rate that can be controlled easily with a PWM flow controller. They are used all throughout the scientific and medical community because of this. Lastly, they can be run with relatively little noise.
Best of luck!
Use car anti freeze diluted with water. I am a HVAC tech for over 20 years. Low humidity chillers run on a mix of glycol and water. You might have to play with the concentration but I would start at like 50/50.
What you wanna do is wire in a simple thermistor relay circuit to the power supply of the AC unit. You should be pretty easily able to have it so the AC unit only comes on when the temperature of the coolant goes above a certain temperature. Say 10 degrees c etc.... that way you avoid the risk of condensation and frost etc and can ditch the antifreeze.
Instead of taking apart the air conditioner, have you thought of trying to build aninsulated computer enclosure or maybe a large insulated radiator enclosure with the air conditioner mounted to the side for the input and output vents in the top, mount several rads inside with fans on the rads, and the input and output tubes from the computer case going into the enclosure to the rads? Just wondering how that would work.
that stuff you're using is for putting buildings sprinkler systems or heating systems in a storage state .it's not meant to be flowed.if you don't have enough water mixed it will not release the heat
these are the best videos.. i love the "will it work" stuff...
Go to a dedicated irrigation store. You'll find some screens that will work a lot better than that fuel filter. You'll also find some great pumps.
I got lucky, my old A/C unit I used regulates down to an actual freeze before cycling the compressor, and its 380watts :)
While doing charpy tests at sub-zero Temps we used alcohol as an "emergency resource", you should try that
I mean, the pink-ish one
Great Video! That spider at 1:37 :D I laughed so hard. I can't stand spiders.. I react the same way you did.. I hope to see more work on this project soon. Subbed.
the fuel filter is definitely slowing down the flow, maby get a y fitting on the end that goes into the tank and have 2 filters going into the main tube to make sure you are getting as much flow as possible.
This was so much fun to watch! thanks man!
I dont have experience in CPU Cooling DIY Chillers, but I do currently have a successful DIY cooling system on my laser machine by means of 3 x Peltier blocks mounted onto heatsinks (hot and cold side, with the cold side heatsink larger than the heat side heatsink.)I submerged the cold heatsink into a 150 litre water tank and have 12v water pump connected at 1400l/ph. Everyone who are supposed to be 'Pro's' that I engaged on my mission, advised me it could not be done....well well! I have been running close to 3 years off of the same system and to this day, I had no issues whatsoever.(but hell did I go through some trial and error phases!!!?) Here is what I have learned: Have a big water tank...much bigger than the cooler box you used in the video. I found that the water heats up much too fast (on the laser) after 1hour of use. I nearly gave up on the Peltier experiment, then I thought of using an excessively large container for the water. Sure it takes a while for the water to cool down (2hours) but once it is cold, I can run the laser between 70 and 90% for 8 hours straight, and have the water (controlled) running stable at 17.5 to 18 degrees. If I switch the thermostat off, the water cools down to 7 degrees Celsius and I live in South Africa where the average day is 34 degrees Celsius. Anyway, I think your setup will work just fine.....once you use a larger tank and as you said, maybe bigger waterpumps. Don't give up, I sense you are about to reach that Eureka moment! i believe in you 😉
Haha good video man, sucks it was a difficult project but it looks like you learned a lot in the process. Keep the videos coming, excited for version 2 of this
You can use any kind of automotive or marine grade antifreeze but you have to use a lot of distilled water to get any decent heat transfer. Around 75% water / 25% antifreeze is a good starting point.
I’m digging this. I might try this and see if I can get my FX 8350 to 5GHz lol, or watch it die trying
I had one in my last PC and overclocked it. With a Corsair H60, I was able to do 4.8GHZ without getting too hot. Just a quick tip. Without load-line calibration turned to ultra, it ran games without a sweat, but would crash just when using chrome or while writing papers. So, I thought it couldn't handle the overclock. I reduced the overclock, and only realized my mistake right before I upgraded. If you have a 990x chipset, ultra load-line calibration should not be a problem. Hope this helps.
That should be very easy, they are very easy to cool (120mm AIO for 4.8 GHz), with a small phase cooler I topped out my boards voltage unfortunately at just 1.7 Vcore (it was a $40 board in 2015, cheapest I could get new, only a 4 phase VRM and micro-ATX but it supported Crossfire/SLI and 4 sticks of RAM, so great value board). I’m just stuck at 5.5 GHz with sub-zero core temps at peak (at the 350w load it’s pulling, and yes it got way more efficient from the cold, it has a block temp of -35c). So I’m just severely voltage limited, but it does alright, like 870cb with underclocked 1416 MHz memory (at XMP 1600 latencies, I just didn’t bother changing it from the FSB of 236 and 6x RAM multi = 1416)
You might as well do the full conversion with the cooling block, mine gets as low as -60c during idle. Plus you don’t have the pump issues, or the enormous size and insanely slow cool down times with gallons of coolant, and you won’t have potential water leaks or the insane weight or desk space that thing will take up (Timmy now has to sleep on the floor, it took up his whole bed!). Plus it’s way more power efficient, you’re using the same pump but you get way colder temps, which also means way bigger overclocks.
Can do that on air easy. It's same as fx9590...... Should get 5.3-5.5 on chilled with an fx chip
Lawrence Timme I think my chip was shit. Only got 4.4GHz with a H90 AIO. Temps were never the problem, also my motherboard was AsRock 970 Extreme 4, not a 990FX.
@@pixuhl that extreme 4 was the worst board ever. It was known for blowing up XD
Washer fluid is thinner than antifreeze and won't gel up. Yes, there are detergents in washer fluid but it's mostly alcohol.
Slower pump, so the extreme cold fluid has time to transfer heat with the CPU (temp in and Temp out of the CPU you want to see a 5 or more degrees difference in temps.
If you where looking at temps well over 212 degr3ees F (100 degrees C), I would also suggest a fully closed and pressurised cooling cool (like a combustion engine), as every PSI of increased pressure within this closed loop equals 3 degrees F higher boiling point, but with a CPU cooler, if your seeing heat like this, it's time to throw the lot into the bin anyway...
Something you could think about for your next project, pumping almost ice-cold liquid or mineral oil through radiators at the front and top, and using fans at the back of the PC to create an internal vaccuum, therefore drawing ambient air through the radiators, cooling the air substantially, and then having this cold air guided through the head shields, and over the components to cool them before being expelled out of the case as it warms up again (sort of like an Air Conditioned case)...
Purchase a coolents that is cat ec1 certified. It's made for diesel coolent systems . It's not expensive . It's simply designed for extremely long long life performance without cavitation , icing, deteriorating, or wearing out coolents pumps . Just ask your local parts house guy for peak brand heavy duty vehicle premixed "50/50". That "50 /50" is an industrial accepted term for ,"do not add water ! ". It's actually 0% water. Just check the back of the jug for that certification.
You can get detergent free washer fluid. like -20 or lower, that has methanol in it. Methanol does not free until -142.7f. Its also kinda flammable, thats why you can inject it in your engine and make more power and lower egt's
If you're using automotive coolant and cooling it to -12, you'll definitely have some gelling at a 50/50 ratio, there are articles you can find about the proper ratios to have in different temp environments, like alaska if i remember right you're supposed to run a 70/30 water/antifreeze mix, because at such low temps the antifreeze will gel. Surely the liquid coolant designed for PC's would be safer for the PC though as it's designed to not cause a short in the event of a leak. How that fluid would perform at sub zero temps is another thing though!
Furthermore I feel like condensation could be a huge issue that's difficult to address here. Insulating the inlet/outlet lines may help, but i feel like the best option would involve a full encasement of the entire PC in a vacuum chamber would eliminate the presence of humidity/air to condensate, but how one would go about pulling off such a system is beyond me! Perhaps fully immersing the PC in non-conductive fluid, which is cycled through a secondary ac?
Nice to see that you're getting so big you deserve it, allot-ta hard work! keep up the fun stuff!
glycol changes heat exchange rates and viscosity. as an HVAC tech this is interesting and this could work great great but it would be expensive to get proper hardware and a lot of work. using proper heat exchangers would be ideal. using components from a water source heat pump would likely be a good start. a snail coil would work well in place of a cooler. Also side note the EPA is on its way to find that missing refrigerant... lmao!
You need an Iwaki pump, like a D30 or more, also you need to insulate the shit out of all the lines, as well as the reservoir, that will improve Temps (also yes, submerg the condenser rad).
Also you can mix methanol in with the antifreeze, but you'll want to use completely metal blocks, as the methanol will eat away at Acetal/Plexi, that will lower the viscosity of the fluid.
This experiment takes me back to the AMD Thunderbird and P4 days with TEC's and fridge motors. 😎
Instead of wasting energy(heat exchanging), you should just engineer a block in-line on the gas's liquid state side of the compressors phase-change piping. Far more efficient, but you REALLY need to cover the mobo and tubing with neo-prane and a heating pad with Vasaline all round the CPU socket, and Vasaline all over any nearby expansion slots and RAM slots(don't worry, you can run the mobo in the dishwasher on a milder setting with other stuff above it(water jet damage)), and obviously get the gas replenished by an engineer. Use good quality car/motorcycle brake/re-enforced fuel pipe attached to the copper pipe after flanging/flaring(you can probably get a good quality tool from China now-a-days) the ends well so you don't have to use too much clamping force that'll collapse/crush the copper piping. I would also get a better quality filter core drier for the AC unit as it'll help get a better flow rate without costing too much.
Keep it coming bud!!👍
Not sure if its possible but what I wanted to see was using the actual coolant lines from the A/C and hooking them up to the block instead of the cold side radiator.
In this episode Timmy Joe learns what viscosity is :)
Damn dude, a little warning before the arachnophobic overload! As soon as I saw all those webs in the window, and especially once you pulled up the AC unit itself I was thinking to myself: "Self, where is what must be by now, a MASSIVE frickin' spider that no doubt spent ages building that ginormous web around that air conditioner? I am certain that it must be residing nearby..."; then BOOM, frickin' Spiderzilla crawls out of the thing and falls out of the bottom of my monitor and right onto my lap (in my mind this happened; I literally jumped) and I hear you make a rather high-pitched sound not dissimilar from the sound that I made (except mine was much 'manlier' of course, and also far louder...and by 'manlier' I mean about 12 octaves higher with much more of a timid 'squeely' sound in my voice as I basically shrieked in absolute terror. I also think I might have wet myself a little bit. But just a little bit (the puddle isn't THAT big).
Yeah, I really can't express just how much I hates me some spiders. I swear, if those little horrifying bastards ever evolve flight, we're all screwed! Just imagine flying spiders, like big ass hairy tarantulas with frickin' BAT wings! Are you scared yet? Yeah, you can thank me for basically destroying any chances you had of getting any sleep tonight. Evolution happens people! Bats eat bugs, bats fly! Why wouldn't our web-wielding, world wandering, fang flailing, long-legged, line-laying arachnoid nemeses be capable of doing the same? Heck, don't some species of spider actually build little 'parachutes'/'para-sails' out of their webbing to take to the winds? Wings are only a small step up in the natural scheme of things. Heck, if you think about it, with their 8 long legs sticking out the sides of their bodies, if they just figured out a way to weave webs thickly between them while still retaining some flexibility, they'd basically have little controllable web-wings with which to terrify our unfriendly skies!
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! IT'S THE FAMOUS INTERNET COMPUTER GUY!!!!!
dude just use strightup vodka in your loop corrosion inhibitors aren't needed for short periods .... less than a week. vodka is actually a good coolant because its low surface tension. lower viscosity makes it easier to pump it to, mechanical engineer here :) think 2 handles of cheap vodka will do you with your set up. what you really need to do is keep your working fluid separate from your water cooler fluid. i've been working on a similar system for this winter using an old whole house central air evaporator as the rad.
Dont use washer fluid. Car coolant, if you want short term use get something for new cars and if for long term use something for older cars. Mixture should be as light as possible, so if your cooler goes for -15c try going with -20-25c mixture as coolant resists freezing but lower the heat transfere capasity. PC pump should be enough as there is only so much you can push trough the heatsink. But you want to have reservoir output trough the bottom for max flow and use bigger hose to pump so you get max flow and static preasure, after pump 10-11 mm inner diameter hose to keep flow at stable amount as g1/4 treads are limiting the imput trough the system.
you know? i laughed at the spider part... but i also react in the exact same way, even with the nervous laugh... its like watching myself find a spider in the bed all again....
I'm not even afraid of spiders, I just always freak out when I have a creepy crawly touch me with out warning heh
@@TimmyJoePCTech same! its just something about the unexpected crawl sensation that my body goes into autopilot
But we love you becouse of you, not becouse one day you could be more methodical🙂
Great, great!!! Video
nice hack job, but the proper way to do this is with a tig welding chiller. They have approximately the right capacity in watts as the most powerful (watts) an overclocked computer would have. You would prolly need to seperate the coolant system of the computer with the coolant system of the chiller via a plate heat exchanger. They have companies that make plate heat exchangers to spec for around 100$ for the beer making industry and tig welding chillers are around 4 to 500$. Just a rough calculation on the small plate heat exchanger puts the size around 3" by 8" brazed copper. Just to be safe I would prolly insulate all the tubing and reservoir of the computer coolant system tubing to keep the potential of condensation down but you could also set up a temperature control system based on surface temperatures of the chilled water on the computer side and the ambient air relative humidity to keep the system from reaching dew point. This would prolly best be controlled by throttling the primary side of the plate heat exchanger pump.
I would have started with taping a radiator from a closed loop with long tubes directly to the AC, then probably would have tried to loop the cold side of the AC to get even lower temps, less destructive, still kicks the heat outside and something more people could try.
Use a air stone inside the cooler to circulate fluid through the rad. Also..see if you can get some foam insulating tube covers in a small enough diameter to run from cooler to block..this will help with condensation.
This gives me loads of useful knowledge for my future build
Just a thought... Why not try and get those little refrigeration systems off AliExpress... Also instead of using the air-conditoner use a camp fridge freezer for your heat exchanger... Using coiled copper tubing to increase the surface area (depending on the size tube). The other idea was to do a diy refrigeration system using simple 12volt compressor etc... But honestly I'd use the camp fridge freezer setup... The thermostat will be able to go lower than the air con. For your idea for a pump... A canister filter for an aquarium would be good... I've one here that does 2500 Litres and hour .. replace the filter material and it might help trap sediment... Anyway bud, love the videos.
yes dont give up ive been wanting to try this myself as well loved the vid man
Thumbs up and comment to bring up your interaction stats. I appreciate the work put in. and hope the video does well :-)
Venting refrigerant to the atmosphere carries a fine that's about $44,000... love, an EPA Certified technician
Find a way to mount the motherboard Upside-Down & Flat that way no Sweat will bead onto the Board or other Components. you Might even want to keep the Coolant & use an Additive like this HY-PER COOL SUPER COOLANT (HPC100) for the Anti Freeze. Put an Internal Pre Filter in too, inside the tank something you can easily clean.
As an hvac guy I lol'd at this.
SPIDERS !! Timmy Joe jumps and squeals like a little girl.....TJ Man up !
You weren't there man, you weren't there.
I watch your videos over Linus tech tips every day....... Keep up the good work.
Linus is a tool
LTT uses rainX.
What you should do is build a mount for it to be out the window and the fluid be held in a sealed box. Then have a plug and play (Quick release hoses) munted in the window you can just unplug a loop and plug another right in. then have all of the ugliness outside.
Maybe try submerge the whole mobo and gpu in mineral oil and stick the chiller rad in the tank
If air can touch anything cold it will condensate. You need to insulate your hoses and connections.
Lucky you the cpu and motherboard still working anything under ambient will start water condensation around the cpu socket and inside as well you need Vaseline inside the socket and around the cpu area and also insulate the waterblock and the tubes with foam
try a diaphragm pump as opposed to a centrifugal pump. I think are less sensitive to the viscosity of the fluid.
Woah... i have been thinking this as a project since 2015. And this is such an underrated video. RUclips should have recommended this on other search results that connnects with pc cooling or pc cooler. Still, nice video and concept of pc cooling engineering... for me taking engineering course, this video of yours gives me hope and potential that i could pull off the same feat as yours and make my own build too..👏👏👏🤘🤘🤘.
you could just get a big 480 rad or something, put them together and have a fan pushing on one side and pulling on the other side. just run through both rads. if that doesnt work well and it has to be liquid then washer fluid makes sense. its mostly methanol. washer fluid might have a touch of detergent in it but ist mostly just water and methanol. im mean in summer most people just use water adn in winter you use this stuff so it wont freeze. pure methanol or ethanol migth work well too. denatured alcohol can be bought cheap. or a couple gallons of ever clear liquor lol. maybe add a bit of water for better heat transfer.
edit: oh it was a blockage. i thought the fulid was just too think from being cold
A/c system can end up not working correctly after extended use with this kind of setup. The evaporator coil is supposed to let the freon build superheat, keeping liquid refrigerant from flooding back to the compressor and damaging it. Also keeping the unit from freezing up but I guess that doesn't really apply in your case.
Could easily use a mini fridge and modify the small freezer section.
Every geek has a mini fridge next to the PC anyways.
I like that u do projects on a level of skill and low budget that anyone could do with a little dedication. I hope that your channel holds that same tradition as it grows. Linus would of spent 30 grand to make this video.
the beat at the end was fire
You're talking about Linus, right? I seem to recall him pulling out a rig like this around Threadripper (which actually came from way before, he just brought it back out for a special video then I believe). I'm sure there's info about doing this in a way that works out there on some forum somewhere. There's gotta be some good posts from individuals who have actually done this.
Have you considered using a closed loop with a rad in the chilled liquid ?
The coolant would have been too cold to sustain that kind of operation.
Great video. I appreciate it when shown the process. Good and not so good.
You need to get a fish tank chiller that will help out a lot
You need more flow for better heat transfer
You need a pump with more flow but that can sustain the same static pressure.
A better filtration system (the water filters that you put in the water tap, they are bigger and better for water mixtures)
Thermal paste like the Hydronaut, the grease type
And a thinner coolant, ethanol and water, if you want just buy distilled water and ethanol and mix it for the antifreeze effect
Check out automotive parts. Fuel powered preheaters like webasto or eberspascher have dedicated coolant pumps and works well even in -40c
Dude not going to lie this is badass I want to see what you can do with the 3900x and that chiller
I vote that TimmyJoe releases blueprints for all of us at home DIY plebs 😁😁😁
Mix the antifreeze 50/50 with water
How about trying to use one of those stand alone outside units for perhaps split air conditioners and directly hooking up the gas outputs to a cpu block ?
I think you should definitely use a thinner liquid maybe a bigger or faster rpm pump
Windshield washing fluid [like actually the CHEAPEST stuff you can find] will just be water and methanol [check the ingredients] and is capable of withstanding lower temperatures than Antifreeze and water. Also, have you de-lidded the CPU?
3D print a tray for the RAD with a grate in it to filter and make laminar flow with a baffle. Once built the 3d printed chamber unit should contain RAD and fluid but fit sealed entirely into the chest for insulation. the rad itself becomes the filter and you get 100% efficiency from the RAD.
Dude, youve got my suscription after seeing this. I did just the same zome years ago... maybe 13 with a asus commando and a core 2 duo e 8400. I had similar problems as you had, and what I did was use a 220v pump so I can plug it directly to the wall and much more power, I also used a better fluid, look for the best fluid for cars, like -30 degrees or something like that, and it will be more liquid at those temperatures. I also used a 220v sunon fan with metal frame for the air cooling attempts but that was even dangerous hahahah I still have all my finger though lol.
Good luck for the next try, I'll be here looking :) love this madness
What you have to remember the faster you move the liquid, you actually start to increase temp of the liquid through the resistance in your system...
Hi Tim! You definitely can try phase-change cooling solutions with this broken ac, you must build vapor chamber for cpu and /or for gpu, this is for more permanent setup and most harder to do good. In YT is video from Bulgaria showing this for Athlonx2 in am2 socket, maybe you can rent some ideas from this video.
You can just look at the commercially available units for better ideas since they are fairly optimized and developed (like from Asetech, the AIO manufacturer had several, Little Devil is another company that makes as you mentioned cooling block for both the CPU and GPU on one unit). Timmy doesn’t have the skills required for duel evap loads, this simple tank cooler was rather embarrassing since these are so simple and he couldn’t figure out basic logic and reasoning skills, and you need problem solving skills for complex coolers. So I recommend that he at least tries, but definitely just do single block since if this project was any any way difficult, then the chance of success is going way down for anything more complex than bare minimum, as they say, “practice simple first”, get that down and then maybe add a second block.
You can also occasionally find the cooling blocks on places like eBay, but it’s very rare.
Nice telecaster. I sure love mine.
ask linus to do a colab about the next level of waterchill.
Timmyjoe you never cease to amaze me man... Your content is awesome... Your a genius mam... Thanks for the great content man.... Always entertaining and informative....