I have those exact lamps on my table right now. Thought I would give RUclips a look for advice on shifting these kids over, and this was the first thing that popped up. Thanks so much for this! Feeling really lucky right now.
Very well organized and explained (colored neutrals notwithstanding 🙂). Feedback: Be careful about your overhead light hitting the lens of your camera. It causes a cloudiness. There were a couple times during close ups when your hands shaded the lens and the picture got substantially clearer. You can get (or rig up) a lens shade for your camera that will help a ton! Also, speak up a bit. You could stand to be ~10-20% louder. But still an EXCELLENT presentation and production. Esp. your wiring diagrams!!! Well Done! I'll tackle my Dazor ULP2324-16 this weekend with confidence.
Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback for sure! That was my very first video and I'm only now working on my 4th and 5th. The volume thing is elusive. It sounded fine before I uploaded it, but I agree that it's too low online. I was working under fluorescents. I wonder if that was part of the problem. I can see interference patterns sometimes while filming. I'll look into setting up a shade. Great advice, thanks. It just occurred to me that I could switch in some LEDs (doh!) and try those out in that location.
Amazing presentation and so timely! When I looked a couple months ago, there were not any great resources. Can't wait to convert one of my 2324's, and then the other. Looks like the process as you described in the M209 the same as for the 2324 (just with 2 sets instead of 3). Do you have a recommendation for the LED's on the 2134? Stay tuned for more questions...
I'm so sorry for not having responded earlier. I thought I had.... The 2134 and 2324 are 18" T8 bulbs, I believe. I don't really have a good recommendation, just because I've only used one set of bulbs of that size so far - www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952? This is what I used for my lamp project and they're still working, but I haven't used the lamp regularly to give it a real test. Please fire away with questions in the future if you have them. I will do a better job of responding.
Very nice conversion! I am curious as to how to tighten the lamp up? Would like it to hold in certain positions, but it tends to droop. Have you taken apart the mechanism by chance? Was wondering if there is a spring tension or something to adjust? Thanks, Brad
Thanks for the comment. That's a really interesting question/thought. I have not yet looked into this it because my lamps (I have 4 Dazors) haven't had issues with drooping. If you do figure it out, please post here (or elsewhere) about what you find.
I took off the side cover and that spring is massive. It also appears that it is pinned into a slot which theoretically could be moved forward or aft one notch. I am not going to mess with it as most positions are workable. Do you have any Dazor’s with the new style arm? The new LED one’s look enticing!!!
@@bwalsberg Nice sleuthing! My lamps are all from an past time in history. One even doesn't have a ground wire on the plug, so perhaps it's from the sixties or before? I checked out the new lamps and I think they look very similar to the old ones, but I bet they can pump out a lot more light. That indeed is the best of both worlds!
Thanks for the comment and question! If you are doing an LED conversion, like in the video, and need a ballast bypass bulb, I've used a Satco S11952 (www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952?). This is for the 6500K variant (cooler, more white). You could also use the S119950 (3000K warmer, more yellow) and S11951 (4000K - in the middle). Here's a search on that website that shows all three. - www.payless-4-lighting.com/search?q=satco+18-inch+bypass&options%5Bprefix%5D=last Good luck!
@@WernersWhirligigs Thanks! This would be for a Dazor 2134 that I hope to modify with your ballast bypass mod and use with a 220v current (I live overseas). Looks like the flourescent bulbs have a voltage range of 120V-270V, so it looks like I should be good 😬
This is the ONLY bulb I've been able to find in the correct size. It looks different than the one shown in on the product page. If you go to 40:22 in the video, you can see what they actually look like. The one thing I don't like is that they don't provide light for the entire length of the bulb, but I haven't found any alternatives - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube
@@WernersWhirligigs Wow, thanks for the quick response. I assume those are the single ended bulbs. I wired my M209 exactly the way you have it but mistakenly used double ended bulbs which seems to be tripping the breakers. Thanks again!
No worries! I wasn't as fast this time, though;) The bulbs I have used, and am familiar with, are indeed the single ended bulbs. The wiring discussed in the video is set up is to accommodate that kind of bulb. For anyone else reading along, this means the power goes in and out at the same end of the bulb. However, these bulbs have connectors at both ends so it doesn't matter which way you orient the bulb in the lamp. A double-ended bulb has power going in at one end and leaving at the other end of the bulb. This type of bulb would not work in the wiring setup from this video.
i have a lamp with two ballasts it is a m-209-f two wires gooing up; I only can light one bulb. I followed your diagram. The two ballast gooing are connected to one wire ...help
What I think I'm reading is that you have an M209 with two light bulbs and two ballasts, but only one light bulb is functioning. I'm not sure what to make of the two ballasts being connected to one wire. That sounds correct. They should be both connected to the a single wire on the neutral side, and the other side of the ballast should each connect to a colored wire (red, yellow, and brown in my diagram) leading to the top. I would do the following to troubleshoot: 1) swap the two bulbs and see if the problem follows the bulb. If the other side now lights, then you know you have a bad bulb. If the same side lights (and the other still doesn't), then 2) Open the base and swap the wires leading from the ballasts up to the top of the lamp. It will likely be the colored wires (like the red, yellow and brown in my diagram). So, take the wire leading from Ballast A to the top of the lamp and attach it to Ballast B, and then take the wire leading from Ballast B and attach it to Ballast A. You'll need to remove the wire nuts and then just re-twist the wires and reinstall the wire nuts. If the other lightbulb now works, then you have a bad ballast. If neither 1) or 2) get you an answer, then there must be a bad connection on the circuit with the non-lighting bulb. Start with 1) and 2) and report back. I'm happy to help you if you need further assistance. Good luck!!
I did swap the wires on the ballast. Each bulb is tested and works. The ballasts works..i did consider to work with leds. But i can no find led lamps 22.5 cm .
@@marccoucke6058 Did all three bulbs ever work with only two ballasts? I believe there should be one ballast per bulb. I have four Dazor lamps and they all have one ballast per bulb. The fact that there are only two ballasts for a three bulb lamp does not seem right to me.
This is in response to your 2nd comment about swapping the wires on the ballast. Nice work! That's good news that everything is functioning. If you wanted to keep it as a fluorescent lamp, I believe you'd need to buy another ballast. Dazor sells ballasts, but I don't see one for the M209 with those smaller T5, 9w bulbs. You might call them. Here's a link to their sales page for ballasts - www.dazor.com/store/ballasts.html. If you choose to do an LED swap, I used these bulbs for my M209 - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube? Let me know how it goes.
Ah, that's an interesting twist. I do not know if that matters, either, though I still think you would need one ballast per lightbulb. Good luck and let me know what your friend finds.
Roger that. This was my first and I'm not sure what's up with the volume. I've listened to it here and it has been low at times, and other times not. Regardless, I'm paying attention to volume levels and will do my best to set them higher. Thanks for the comment. Every bit helps.
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I have those exact lamps on my table right now. Thought I would give RUclips a look for advice on shifting these kids over, and this was the first thing that popped up. Thanks so much for this! Feeling really lucky right now.
Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your conversion! If you run into issues, don't hesitate to ask.
Comments and questions are welcomed. Thanks for your interest!
Very well organized and explained (colored neutrals notwithstanding 🙂). Feedback: Be careful about your overhead light hitting the lens of your camera. It causes a cloudiness. There were a couple times during close ups when your hands shaded the lens and the picture got substantially clearer. You can get (or rig up) a lens shade for your camera that will help a ton! Also, speak up a bit. You could stand to be ~10-20% louder. But still an EXCELLENT presentation and production. Esp. your wiring diagrams!!! Well Done! I'll tackle my Dazor ULP2324-16 this weekend with confidence.
Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback for sure! That was my very first video and I'm only now working on my 4th and 5th. The volume thing is elusive. It sounded fine before I uploaded it, but I agree that it's too low online. I was working under fluorescents. I wonder if that was part of the problem. I can see interference patterns sometimes while filming. I'll look into setting up a shade. Great advice, thanks. It just occurred to me that I could switch in some LEDs (doh!) and try those out in that location.
What a great video, I love it!!!!!
Thanks so much!!
Amazing presentation and so timely! When I looked a couple months ago, there were not any great resources. Can't wait to convert one of my 2324's, and then the other. Looks like the process as you described in the M209 the same as for the 2324 (just with 2 sets instead of 3). Do you have a recommendation for the LED's on the 2134? Stay tuned for more questions...
I'm so sorry for not having responded earlier. I thought I had.... The 2134 and 2324 are 18" T8 bulbs, I believe. I don't really have a good recommendation, just because I've only used one set of bulbs of that size so far - www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952? This is what I used for my lamp project and they're still working, but I haven't used the lamp regularly to give it a real test. Please fire away with questions in the future if you have them. I will do a better job of responding.
Very nice conversion! I am curious as to how to tighten the lamp up? Would like it to hold in certain positions, but it tends to droop. Have you taken apart the mechanism by chance? Was wondering if there is a spring tension or something to adjust? Thanks, Brad
Thanks for the comment. That's a really interesting question/thought. I have not yet looked into this it because my lamps (I have 4 Dazors) haven't had issues with drooping. If you do figure it out, please post here (or elsewhere) about what you find.
I took off the side cover and that spring is massive. It also appears that it is pinned into a slot which theoretically could be moved forward or aft one notch. I am not going to mess with it as most positions are workable. Do you have any Dazor’s with the new style arm? The new LED one’s look enticing!!!
@@bwalsberg Nice sleuthing! My lamps are all from an past time in history. One even doesn't have a ground wire on the plug, so perhaps it's from the sixties or before? I checked out the new lamps and I think they look very similar to the old ones, but I bet they can pump out a lot more light. That indeed is the best of both worlds!
Great video! Would you happen to know which Satco LED bulb would be the correct bulb for a Dazor 2134 with your conversion?
Thanks for the comment and question! If you are doing an LED conversion, like in the video, and need a ballast bypass bulb, I've used a Satco S11952 (www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952?). This is for the 6500K variant (cooler, more white). You could also use the S119950 (3000K warmer, more yellow) and S11951 (4000K - in the middle). Here's a search on that website that shows all three. - www.payless-4-lighting.com/search?q=satco+18-inch+bypass&options%5Bprefix%5D=last Good luck!
@@WernersWhirligigs Thanks! This would be for a Dazor 2134 that I hope to modify with your ballast bypass mod and use with a 220v current (I live overseas). Looks like the flourescent bulbs have a voltage range of 120V-270V, so it looks like I should be good 😬
Thanks for the video. Do you have a link to the bulbs you used?
This is the ONLY bulb I've been able to find in the correct size. It looks different than the one shown in on the product page. If you go to 40:22 in the video, you can see what they actually look like. The one thing I don't like is that they don't provide light for the entire length of the bulb, but I haven't found any alternatives - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube
@@WernersWhirligigs Wow, thanks for the quick response. I assume those are the single ended bulbs. I wired my M209 exactly the way you have it but mistakenly used double ended bulbs which seems to be tripping the breakers. Thanks again!
No worries! I wasn't as fast this time, though;) The bulbs I have used, and am familiar with, are indeed the single ended bulbs. The wiring discussed in the video is set up is to accommodate that kind of bulb. For anyone else reading along, this means the power goes in and out at the same end of the bulb. However, these bulbs have connectors at both ends so it doesn't matter which way you orient the bulb in the lamp. A double-ended bulb has power going in at one end and leaving at the other end of the bulb. This type of bulb would not work in the wiring setup from this video.
i have a lamp with two ballasts it is a m-209-f two wires gooing up; I only can light one bulb. I followed your diagram. The two ballast gooing are connected to one wire ...help
What I think I'm reading is that you have an M209 with two light bulbs and two ballasts, but only one light bulb is functioning. I'm not sure what to make of the two ballasts being connected to one wire. That sounds correct. They should be both connected to the a single wire on the neutral side, and the other side of the ballast should each connect to a colored wire (red, yellow, and brown in my diagram) leading to the top. I would do the following to troubleshoot: 1) swap the two bulbs and see if the problem follows the bulb. If the other side now lights, then you know you have a bad bulb. If the same side lights (and the other still doesn't), then 2) Open the base and swap the wires leading from the ballasts up to the top of the lamp. It will likely be the colored wires (like the red, yellow and brown in my diagram). So, take the wire leading from Ballast A to the top of the lamp and attach it to Ballast B, and then take the wire leading from Ballast B and attach it to Ballast A. You'll need to remove the wire nuts and then just re-twist the wires and reinstall the wire nuts. If the other lightbulb now works, then you have a bad ballast. If neither 1) or 2) get you an answer, then there must be a bad connection on the circuit with the non-lighting bulb. Start with 1) and 2) and report back. I'm happy to help you if you need further assistance. Good luck!!
Thx but i have 3 bulbes and two ballasts
I did swap the wires on the ballast. Each bulb is tested and works. The ballasts works..i did consider to work with leds. But i can no find led lamps 22.5 cm .
@@marccoucke6058 Did all three bulbs ever work with only two ballasts? I believe there should be one ballast per bulb. I have four Dazor lamps and they all have one ballast per bulb. The fact that there are only two ballasts for a three bulb lamp does not seem right to me.
This is in response to your 2nd comment about swapping the wires on the ballast. Nice work! That's good news that everything is functioning. If you wanted to keep it as a fluorescent lamp, I believe you'd need to buy another ballast. Dazor sells ballasts, but I don't see one for the M209 with those smaller T5, 9w bulbs. You might call them. Here's a link to their sales page for ballasts - www.dazor.com/store/ballasts.html. If you choose to do an LED swap, I used these bulbs for my M209 - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube? Let me know how it goes.
The lamp was made for the European market we have 220 volt. I do not know if it matters. I am a Belgian.
Ah, that's an interesting twist. I do not know if that matters, either, though I still think you would need one ballast per lightbulb. Good luck and let me know what your friend finds.
Make sure to have good audio. My ears are old lol 😊
Roger that. This was my first and I'm not sure what's up with the volume. I've listened to it here and it has been low at times, and other times not. Regardless, I'm paying attention to volume levels and will do my best to set them higher. Thanks for the comment. Every bit helps.