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I have not had to work on one of the windows, yet. The do come out pretty easily, so you can remove it if it's easier to work on it that way. Sorry to hear about the dent. Good luck getting it out. Thanks for posting a comment.

@@WernersWhirligigs I'll look at taking the window out. No worries on the dent, I just bought the truck and the dent was already there and it's not too bad. I think once I can get behind it most of it will just push out. Thanks.

The metric system is awesome for that. I agree. You saw me stumble because I had made my calculations in decimal pounds and, while mixing, realized my scale only did lbs, and decimal oz, which is complicated. At least when we're making critical measurements in inches, we change over to 0.001 inches. Thanks for checking in, mate!

Thanks for the comment. That's a really interesting question/thought. I have not yet looked into this it because my lamps (I have 4 Dazors) haven't had issues with drooping. If you do figure it out, please post here (or elsewhere) about what you find.

I took off the side cover and that spring is massive. It also appears that it is pinned into a slot which theoretically could be moved forward or aft one notch. I am not going to mess with it as most positions are workable. Do you have any Dazor’s with the new style arm? The new LED one’s look enticing!!!

@@bwalsberg Nice sleuthing! My lamps are all from an past time in history. One even doesn't have a ground wire on the plug, so perhaps it's from the sixties or before? I checked out the new lamps and I think they look very similar to the old ones, but I bet they can pump out a lot more light. That indeed is the best of both worlds!

Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your conversion! If you run into issues, don't hesitate to ask.

@ianloy1854 Thanks for the input! Good call on the flat stones. They might be in my future. Regarding the finish, I've been pondering that issue. I balanced the wheel first, then trued and dressed it. Could it potentially be out of balance again, after being trued? For example, if the wheel were mounted way off center on the adapter and was then trued up, could it have lopped off enough weight on one side, taking it out of balance again? I tried to balance it again after doing the work and I could not balance it because my 3D printed weights, could not hold enough ballast to offset the weight of the wheel. I recently scored 3 Sopko adapters on eBay, in parts. One came with the Sopko balancing rings but the adapter is slithgly too long for my machine. I will be doing a little machine work to modify the adapter so I can use the balancing rings with my wheels/adapters. My No 2 is one that came with the less common sealed bearings, as opposed to the plain bearings. But they could be 75-80 years old now and have some miles. Before I go in there, though, I'm going to attempt to get a better balance on the wheel.

@@WernersWhirligigs So it is like my J&S 540 - surprised I guess at the bearings given what I could read up on the B&S. This certainly makes your ears far more important. If the bearings are quiet then it isn't them... But you can also check for radial play easily - it should be zero of course. You can check for wheel runout - just have something between the dial indicator and the wheel. Only other thing I can think of is the belt drive - is there something there that isn't running smoothly? Another thought. Rotate the wheel 180deg on the spindle. Same idea as they use on car tyres the lightest point is marked and that gets installed where the air inlet is. If there is a significant (lovely word, has no actual definition so you get to decide, and if you told me I could say you were way off...) difference between the bore and spindle try and manually preferentially position it. Re flat stones see this ruclips.net/video/gAmH4pDdy9Y/видео.html I love his work you can see what he does with so little resources. The subtitles are really good to. It also shows a diamond wheel - these are great for carbide. For metal a CBN wheel is better (diamond works but can wear quickly). The point is balance and true it (by using a slab of hard metal) and your done for a LONG time - unlike a stone wheel.

@@ianloy1854 Thanks so much for the additional ideas about the finish. I'll look into all those issues. This is one of the reasons why I started posting videos. To get useful feedback that helps me learn. Thanks! That was a great video on making flat stones. I watched the whole thing and have bookmarked it for when I'm ready to make my own.

That's great feedback regarding adding the acid first. I wasn't sure which made more sense, so I followed what someone said in the original Beyond Ballistics video comments. I'll add the acid first next time. Thank you! Regarding designing in metric, not always. The my personal default in Fusion is SAE, however I only had metric set screws in the appropriate size in my hardware drawer at that time, so I designed the part in metric (I'm assuming you're referring to the last video about making the ballasts for the wheel. I'm utilitarian. I do whatever it takes that is efficient and saves $. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks so much for saying that! That made my morning. Glad it helped a little. I learned drafting in school back in high school in the 80's and then one of the earlier approaches at CAD too, but this is quite a different animal. That said, once I got the hang of it, the methodology makes a lot of sense and I really like it.

Me too. Thank you sir for the comment.

Hey man, thanks for thinking this issue through. I think I follow what you're saying. Just more thoughts/comments of my onw - The table itself was surprisingly level and the variations seemed to be slope like, meaning that they changed slowly and in one direction as the table moved through it's range. However, the changes in the surface of the chuck, after grinding, seemed to be very localized. The needle was bumping up and down as I traversed the chuck. I don't think I could draw a conclusion here. All that said, I really appreciate you taking the time to share some thoughts in a comment! Thanks a bunch.

@@WernersWhirligigs Yeah, the bumps were kind of what led me to this line of thought. The bumps seemed more pronounced as you moved the table toward the frame and away from it, but were smoother when moving the table length wise. If the table were tilted away or toward the frame but the wheel wasn't, this would fit. Imagine if the table were sloped to an exaggerated 30 degrees front to back. The wheel would cut a saw tooth looking profile into the table with a tooth count equal to the step over. If I were right, then the bumping of the needle while traversing in and out would be higher on one side than the other as well. It's an interesting situation. I appreciate the conversation. Good luck!

@@kupaN9 I understand now. Your description helped me visualize it. I do believe there is some slope from front to back, with the back of the table being slightly higher. The needle climbed a small bit each time I took a step across one of the T-slots towards the back of the table. You have a good eye.

Thanks! So glad hear it!

Hey Slim - thanks for the comment/questions. The honest answer is - I don't know. I don't believe that issue was discussed in the video by BeyondBallistics either. The product of citric acid and baking soda (what we made) is called Trisodium Citrate, if you want to research it further. I found the following on several medical sites, because it is used in treating various issues - "it is chemically and microbiologically stable for 28 days when stored at room temperature in 50 mL syringes". Given that it's for medical purposes, I would expect 28 days to be an extremely conservative number. I have only been storing mine since a few days before the video was posted, maybe 15 days, so I personally don't have an experience based answer, but I am expecting it to last for quite a while (whatever that means).

@WernersWhirligigs I have my citric acid ordered, going to mix up a batch and clean these vises up, then put a lid on it and I guess see if it works the next time I need it. Going to keep an eye on the whole lid thing too, not sure if it keeps off gassing and wouldn't want a big mess 😅

@@SlimPickins_07 Nice! I think you'll be happy with the results. Good idea about the lid. I have mine in a covered 5 gallon bucket and haven't run into an issue, but gassing could happen. Haha. Did you watch the part where I made the solution a second time, and it didn't go totally volcano on me? Put all of the baking soda in the water first. Then slowly add a bit of citric acid and stir. Add more and stir. Be sure all the citric acid has reacted and dissolved before you add more. It did bubble over the second time because there were still undissolved salts in the bottom of the bucket, but it wasn't nearly as bad as the first time. Good luck!!

Exactly! hahaha. Or much less water to start with. But I'm no good at that. I want to use all the space in the bucket.

You might check out this video on Project Farm's channel (ruclips.net/video/lyWHF4NoNVk/видео.htmlsi=K56jOG5zFStMYS0H). It's about car undercoating rust inhibitors. If you don't know Project Farm, this guys tests ALL kinds of stuff, side by side. He buys the things with his own money, is not sponsored, and does thoughtful and comparative tests on the products. Hands down, one of the most useful channels on RUclips. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for the comment!

Hey Gordon - I hope it works out for you! Please do let me know. What part of Australia are you in? I spent quite a bit of time traveling the farming regions along the Murray River for several years. I really enjoy visiting! Great country and nice people.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts Bernstein. Yes, for sure, I've been using Fusion 360 for several years now and have learned many shortcuts. And I also did some engineering before hand. Thanks for keeping me honest. One of these days, there will be peanuts!

Thanks for the comment and question! If you are doing an LED conversion, like in the video, and need a ballast bypass bulb, I've used a Satco S11952 (www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952?). This is for the 6500K variant (cooler, more white). You could also use the S119950 (3000K warmer, more yellow) and S11951 (4000K - in the middle). Here's a search on that website that shows all three. - www.payless-4-lighting.com/search?q=satco+18-inch+bypass&options%5Bprefix%5D=last Good luck!

@@WernersWhirligigs Thanks! This would be for a Dazor 2134 that I hope to modify with your ballast bypass mod and use with a 220v current (I live overseas). Looks like the flourescent bulbs have a voltage range of 120V-270V, so it looks like I should be good 😬

Thanks Rodolfo. That's a great idea. This wheel is balanced and I'm just going to leave it alone for now. I found an even better solution for the next wheels, though. I bought a box of Sopko wheel adapter parts on eBay, which had 4 of the threaded sleeves, 2 nuts, 2 washers and some balancing rings. There's enough there to make 2 working adapters, one with balancing weights (I hope, it's in the mail).

Cool! Let me know how it goes. Good luck!

Thanks so much for the comment!

You know, that's a great idea. Thank you!

Werner! My brother from another mother aus Deutschland. Thanks for the comment. I really appreciate hearing from you. I'm now working on 3D printing a balancing stand for the grinding wheel. That will be the next video and hopefully in 4 days. So many details before I can actually grind. Thanks again for saying hello. You made my day:)

I said, "MAY contain peanuts" not "WILL contain peanuts". Maybe in the next one;)

thanks! Did you see the fireworks?

This is the ONLY bulb I've been able to find in the correct size. It looks different than the one shown in on the product page. If you go to 40:22 in the video, you can see what they actually look like. The one thing I don't like is that they don't provide light for the entire length of the bulb, but I haven't found any alternatives - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube

@@WernersWhirligigs Wow, thanks for the quick response. I assume those are the single ended bulbs. I wired my M209 exactly the way you have it but mistakenly used double ended bulbs which seems to be tripping the breakers. Thanks again!

No worries! I wasn't as fast this time, though;) The bulbs I have used, and am familiar with, are indeed the single ended bulbs. The wiring discussed in the video is set up is to accommodate that kind of bulb. For anyone else reading along, this means the power goes in and out at the same end of the bulb. However, these bulbs have connectors at both ends so it doesn't matter which way you orient the bulb in the lamp. A double-ended bulb has power going in at one end and leaving at the other end of the bulb. This type of bulb would not work in the wiring setup from this video.

Thanks for checking it out! I really appreciate the comment. Thank you.

Danke schön!

Thanks mate! Stay tuned...

I'm so sorry for not having responded earlier. I thought I had.... The 2134 and 2324 are 18" T8 bulbs, I believe. I don't really have a good recommendation, just because I've only used one set of bulbs of that size so far - www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952? This is what I used for my lamp project and they're still working, but I haven't used the lamp regularly to give it a real test. Please fire away with questions in the future if you have them. I will do a better job of responding.

Good question! I only learned about Gridfinity from another comment and had never heard of it before I created my storage system. I just thought about my problem and came up with a solution. Thx for the heads up on the 360 plugin which looks great too. That's news to me. If I end up needing more storage, I'll try out Gridfinity. Thanks for your comment!

Ah, that's an interesting twist. I do not know if that matters, either, though I still think you would need one ballast per lightbulb. Good luck and let me know what your friend finds.

What I think I'm reading is that you have an M209 with two light bulbs and two ballasts, but only one light bulb is functioning. I'm not sure what to make of the two ballasts being connected to one wire. That sounds correct. They should be both connected to the a single wire on the neutral side, and the other side of the ballast should each connect to a colored wire (red, yellow, and brown in my diagram) leading to the top. I would do the following to troubleshoot: 1) swap the two bulbs and see if the problem follows the bulb. If the other side now lights, then you know you have a bad bulb. If the same side lights (and the other still doesn't), then 2) Open the base and swap the wires leading from the ballasts up to the top of the lamp. It will likely be the colored wires (like the red, yellow and brown in my diagram). So, take the wire leading from Ballast A to the top of the lamp and attach it to Ballast B, and then take the wire leading from Ballast B and attach it to Ballast A. You'll need to remove the wire nuts and then just re-twist the wires and reinstall the wire nuts. If the other lightbulb now works, then you have a bad ballast. If neither 1) or 2) get you an answer, then there must be a bad connection on the circuit with the non-lighting bulb. Start with 1) and 2) and report back. I'm happy to help you if you need further assistance. Good luck!!

Thx but i have 3 bulbes and two ballasts

I did swap the wires on the ballast. Each bulb is tested and works. The ballasts works..i did consider to work with leds. But i can no find led lamps 22.5 cm .

@@marccoucke6058 Did all three bulbs ever work with only two ballasts? I believe there should be one ballast per bulb. I have four Dazor lamps and they all have one ballast per bulb. The fact that there are only two ballasts for a three bulb lamp does not seem right to me.

This is in response to your 2nd comment about swapping the wires on the ballast. Nice work! That's good news that everything is functioning. If you wanted to keep it as a fluorescent lamp, I believe you'd need to buy another ballast. Dazor sells ballasts, but I don't see one for the M209 with those smaller T5, 9w bulbs. You might call them. Here's a link to their sales page for ballasts - www.dazor.com/store/ballasts.html. If you choose to do an LED swap, I used these bulbs for my M209 - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube? Let me know how it goes.

Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback for sure! That was my very first video and I'm only now working on my 4th and 5th. The volume thing is elusive. It sounded fine before I uploaded it, but I agree that it's too low online. I was working under fluorescents. I wonder if that was part of the problem. I can see interference patterns sometimes while filming. I'll look into setting up a shade. Great advice, thanks. It just occurred to me that I could switch in some LEDs (doh!) and try those out in that location.

Roger that. This was my first and I'm not sure what's up with the volume. I've listened to it here and it has been low at times, and other times not. Regardless, I'm paying attention to volume levels and will do my best to set them higher. Thanks for the comment. Every bit helps.

Thanks a bunch for the comment. I'm working on some more videos.

Thanks for checking out the video. 3D printing is a total game changer. I have lots of tools, but I use my 3D printer more than any other tool. Seriously. Getting a CAD program ( I use Fusion 360 and really like it) makes it even more useful because then you can design and print your own stuff. I've fixed so many things around my shop and house with 3D printed parts and have also come up with many new concepts. If you enjoy creating and/or fixing things, you will love a 3D printer.

Oh, wow, I didn't realize I had reinvented the wheel. My introduction to Zack Freedman makes me feel quite inadequate (haha). Here's a link to the video describing his system, which is leagues beyond mine (ruclips.net/video/ra_9zU-mnl8/видео.htmlsi=9dLKNChNyjsMmGxB). It's really cool that the Gridfinity bins have similar features, like the grid base, multiple sizes, and the label tab. Stackability is a neat feature, which I couldn't do with the thumb handles. I also like the sloped bottom of the bins which aid in grabbing parts from the bin. Really neat that people approaching a problem sometimes end up with very similar solutions. Thanks for pointing me in this direction.

​@@WernersWhirligigs now you have a giant repository of open source designs that you can remix into your system. It's a rabbit hole.

Thanks for the compliment! I use Fusion 360. I I'd be happy to share the original files. I'll put them on Thingiverse, if that's possible, or set up a download elsewhere. I'll post another reply when I get that done. Also, good eye on the tool box. It is a US General from Harbor Freight. It is black, however I wanted a more vintage feel in my shop, so I wrapped it with vinyl car wrap in that color. FWIW, it took me about 4+/- hours. Thanks again!

I have uploaded the STEP files for all the components to Thingiverse. I believe this file type will allow for modification in a number of different CAD programs. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks so much!!