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That's great! Thank you for keeping old iron up and running. Change gears, ugh. Luckily mine came with a full set. When you say "need the keyways cut", are you referring to the 4 internal keyways in each gear? That'll be a good project. I'm at the point where I'm putting back together the mill head currently, so nearing completion. Good luck with your machine. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you have them.

Dang, you sure did get the machining bug. Sounds like you have a shop that's always read for fun. I enjoy rehabbing the machines as much as i do using them. Thanks for checking the video out.

Interesting. I might try that out. Thanks!

@ its a form of rust bluing

Cool that you're working on one too. Thanks for the comment!

You're the man! Thanks so much for the quick reply. I can visualize what you're saying and it makes sense. I might try that last idea of putting it in a vise and reinstalling the quill handle. Do you have any suggestions for lubricating the parts in the feed transmission box? It looks dry and clean in there, but it could be because all the grease dried up, like in the bearings. Thanks again for the help!

@@WernersWhirligigs I think you can also (with the pinning screw removed) put the fine feed knob back on and, while holding big shaft still, turn the feed knob and unscrew the worm shaft out of the housing. It should push the bushing out ahead if it. As for lube I just grease everything in the mill head and any brass safe grease is fine. If you want a light grease and easy feel I use "corn head" grease which is around 00 weight. John Deere has a synthetic version. Use your stiff grease to hold that pinned key stock in place when putting the vertical driveshaft back together. What a pain THAT was. Also, you will need to put the lifting collar on the mill post first THEN feed the ball bearings into it via those capped holes on the side ensuring all the balls are between the stops in the spiral groove. How you lube the balls and post may effect how well the mill head will clamp around it. It's a weakness with round post mills and this one especially and the mill head may kick to the side while milling. I may have upgraded the clamping bolt to address that before I added my steady post mod.

@@EddieTheGrouch I tried this 2nd strategy of turning the fine feed knob last night, when I had a few spare minutes. When I did this, the transmission block (not sure what it should be called) started to rotate, so I stopped there. TBCd... Also, thanks for the extra info on the ball bearings. I'm curious to see how that all goes back together and functions. I've heard of corn head grease and will look into it more. Thanks for all the help.

@@WernersWhirligigs The block/housing AND the quill shaft need to be secured for the feed screw to unwind out of the block. Feed screw turns shaft so it moves - lock shaft and block so the screw has to move (preferably out of the block).

​@@EddieTheGrouch Got it. Thanks. I figured that out right away once I gave it a turn. I just didn't have more time to pursue it. I have 3 questions - 1) Does it matter from which end the fine feed screw is removed? 2) Once the fine feed screw is removed, will the shaft and the attached fine/coarse selector be free to be removed from the transmission block? 3) Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a press to push out the fine feed screw, so long as I'm mindful of the brass gear?

Thanks! I hope it helps you out.

Thanks for the comment sir! That's really helpful info. I've noticed, just in the time since this video, that in a single batch, some items are more prone to changing color that others. I really appreciate that you shared your knowledge. Thanks again.

Thanks for checking out the video. I have never had that problem. However, I came across a power window reset procedure while doing my research for this video that I think might fix your problem. Check out this video and let me know if it works out for you - ruclips.net/video/bWMTKkYmh6s/видео.html&ab_channel=mr-fix

Hey Eddie - that's great advice. Thanks so much. The studs will certainly make a big difference. I was looking through the drawers today for some machine screws and saw some threaded studs in there, before I read your message. I'll have to see if they fit. Regarding the tensioner and bearings, are you referring to the bearings on the center pulley ,where it mounts on the shaft? On my machine, there's a large spring that pulls the center pully to the right. I used a gear puller to remove that pulley and its bearings from the shaft, but I didn't do anything more to them. I'll look at the carbide cutter, as well. I have a carbide grinding wheel setup, so I can clean it up if needed. I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience. With regards to this Smithy machine, I started from zero.

Hey - Thanks so much for commenting. I hope it will work for you. Coincidently, I just posted a new video about this last night. Some of my parts developed a black film on the during treatment. I think it was because I left the parts in the solution for 20 hours (too long), so it's probably not a good idea to leave them overnight. It usually works faster. Take a look at this link to see new video because I do discuss it for about 5 minutes - ruclips.net/video/mtTsg1A3nFU/видео.html

That's really good info. Thanks for posting it. I'll try out jet dry in my next batch.

Thanks for the comment! I hope to be wrapping it up soon. BTW - I'm a native Virginian and miss it quite a bit. It's such a beautiful state.

Ah, it's called a differential screw. Thank you! I didn't know that before. The whole setup seems more complicated than it needs to be.

@@WernersWhirligigs Yeah. It was one of the many features that had to go! Still, I'd much rather my old clanky Smithy than the joke of a machine like what Vevor sells at $700.

@@EddieTheGrouch I really like that these machines are so compact. I'm going to install the repaired and repainted motor pulley today and hope to be making some chips for the first time with the lathe. I still have to remount the mill and have been thinking about it. I doubt that it's going to mount up perfectly level with the table and expect I'll have to use some shims to tram it. Has your mill always cut level or have you had to tram it?

Max - thanks for sharing your concern here. I did some research and I could not find any information about ballasts containing BPAs before 1980 (or after). PCBs line up much better with your description and the pre-1980 timeline. Assuming you meant PCBs, have you determined whether the ballasts used by Dazor contained PCBs? Not all ballasts did. I don't want folks to get worried by a generalization that may not be relevant. Out of my own curiosity and concern for everyone here, I sent an email to Dazor (they are still in business). I'll post when I get a response from them.

@@WernersWhirligigs Sorry yes BPA was a typo I'm referring to Polychlorinated biphenyls. Goverment resources state "Light-ballast capacitors are found in fluorescent light fixtures. Ballasts manufactured prior to 1980 typically contain PCBs.". My Dazor lamp's transformers were leaking a dark brown oil consistent with PCB containing oil. I wouldn't say I'm certain but there are enough factors that I wouldn't advise anyone to open up the ballast compartment without the proper precausions.

​@@maxeddis1138 I heard back from Dazor. They only said, "We do not have any information on the older ballasts (transformers). However, our older model fluorescent lamps would have utilized a capacitor." That was a weak response. While researching, I learned that PCBs are found specifically in the capacitors in fluorescent lamp ballasts, and the response from Dazor seemed to highlight this. I'm curious about your transformer that was leaking. Was it the capacitor? Another thought - how many prongs does your lamp have in the plug. 3-prong plugs, with the ground circuit, weren't required until around 1969, so lamps prior to 1969 most likely have a 2-prong plug. That would help you narrow down the age of your lamp even more. Any lamp with a 2-prong plug could have a PCB risk. I have at least one Dazor that has a 2-prong plug. I will look at it more closely. Thanks for the dialogue Max. This is very interesting.

@@WernersWhirligigs My lamp does have a two prong plug though I'm rewiring it to led so I'll probably ground it. I'm definitely not an expert in this stuff, the ballast component of my lamp just had two transformers, there wasn't a separate capacitor. The transformers themselves were moist with an oil and from what I can find online a dielectric oil containing PCB was used in many old transformers.

Thanks so much buddy! Did you find the Easter Egg?

@@WernersWhirligigs I don't thin so, I did see when you were foreshadowing when you said Earthquake!

@@Dartguyjw That's relevant to the Easter Egg...

Thank you sir! Be sure you look at the link in the Description, above, because someone came before me with this idea and it's now quite a big thing. I did honestly think this up independently. I am amazed at the traction that this other gentlemen got with his version. It's got it's own life now as a "thing".

Shoot, that's annoying that your replaced the regulator and got a new issue! Thanks too for calling out how frustrating this job can be. I'm not surprised you got all that other work done on your van in less time that working on your BMW car door. Thanks for sharing your experience. Good luck with the whistle, mate!

Thanks for checking out my video and for the comment! Before you go too far making any changes, check out Gridfinity. After I made my project (doh!) someone pointed me towards that system which came out about a year earlier. It's metric and community based, so there are thousands of downloadable containers designs. Here's the link - gridfinity.xyz/ Have fun going down the rabbit hole:)

Thanks Bud! I had a fun time working at that company!

I have not had to work on one of the windows, yet. The do come out pretty easily, so you can remove it if it's easier to work on it that way. Sorry to hear about the dent. Good luck getting it out. Thanks for posting a comment.

@@WernersWhirligigs I'll look at taking the window out. No worries on the dent, I just bought the truck and the dent was already there and it's not too bad. I think once I can get behind it most of it will just push out. Thanks.

The metric system is awesome for that. I agree. You saw me stumble because I had made my calculations in decimal pounds and, while mixing, realized my scale only did lbs, and decimal oz, which is complicated. At least when we're making critical measurements in inches, we change over to 0.001 inches. Thanks for checking in, mate!

Thanks for the comment. That's a really interesting question/thought. I have not yet looked into this it because my lamps (I have 4 Dazors) haven't had issues with drooping. If you do figure it out, please post here (or elsewhere) about what you find.

I took off the side cover and that spring is massive. It also appears that it is pinned into a slot which theoretically could be moved forward or aft one notch. I am not going to mess with it as most positions are workable. Do you have any Dazor’s with the new style arm? The new LED one’s look enticing!!!

@@bwalsberg Nice sleuthing! My lamps are all from an past time in history. One even doesn't have a ground wire on the plug, so perhaps it's from the sixties or before? I checked out the new lamps and I think they look very similar to the old ones, but I bet they can pump out a lot more light. That indeed is the best of both worlds!

Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your conversion! If you run into issues, don't hesitate to ask.

@ianloy1854 Thanks for the input! Good call on the flat stones. They might be in my future. Regarding the finish, I've been pondering that issue. I balanced the wheel first, then trued and dressed it. Could it potentially be out of balance again, after being trued? For example, if the wheel were mounted way off center on the adapter and was then trued up, could it have lopped off enough weight on one side, taking it out of balance again? I tried to balance it again after doing the work and I could not balance it because my 3D printed weights, could not hold enough ballast to offset the weight of the wheel. I recently scored 3 Sopko adapters on eBay, in parts. One came with the Sopko balancing rings but the adapter is slithgly too long for my machine. I will be doing a little machine work to modify the adapter so I can use the balancing rings with my wheels/adapters. My No 2 is one that came with the less common sealed bearings, as opposed to the plain bearings. But they could be 75-80 years old now and have some miles. Before I go in there, though, I'm going to attempt to get a better balance on the wheel.

@@WernersWhirligigs So it is like my J&S 540 - surprised I guess at the bearings given what I could read up on the B&S. This certainly makes your ears far more important. If the bearings are quiet then it isn't them... But you can also check for radial play easily - it should be zero of course. You can check for wheel runout - just have something between the dial indicator and the wheel. Only other thing I can think of is the belt drive - is there something there that isn't running smoothly? Another thought. Rotate the wheel 180deg on the spindle. Same idea as they use on car tyres the lightest point is marked and that gets installed where the air inlet is. If there is a significant (lovely word, has no actual definition so you get to decide, and if you told me I could say you were way off...) difference between the bore and spindle try and manually preferentially position it. Re flat stones see this ruclips.net/video/gAmH4pDdy9Y/видео.html I love his work you can see what he does with so little resources. The subtitles are really good to. It also shows a diamond wheel - these are great for carbide. For metal a CBN wheel is better (diamond works but can wear quickly). The point is balance and true it (by using a slab of hard metal) and your done for a LONG time - unlike a stone wheel.

@@ianloy1854 Thanks so much for the additional ideas about the finish. I'll look into all those issues. This is one of the reasons why I started posting videos. To get useful feedback that helps me learn. Thanks! That was a great video on making flat stones. I watched the whole thing and have bookmarked it for when I'm ready to make my own.

That's great feedback regarding adding the acid first. I wasn't sure which made more sense, so I followed what someone said in the original Beyond Ballistics video comments. I'll add the acid first next time. Thank you! Regarding designing in metric, not always. The my personal default in Fusion is SAE, however I only had metric set screws in the appropriate size in my hardware drawer at that time, so I designed the part in metric (I'm assuming you're referring to the last video about making the ballasts for the wheel. I'm utilitarian. I do whatever it takes that is efficient and saves $. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks so much for saying that! That made my morning. Glad it helped a little. I learned drafting in school back in high school in the 80's and then one of the earlier approaches at CAD too, but this is quite a different animal. That said, once I got the hang of it, the methodology makes a lot of sense and I really like it.

Me too. Thank you sir for the comment.

Hey man, thanks for thinking this issue through. I think I follow what you're saying. Just more thoughts/comments of my onw - The table itself was surprisingly level and the variations seemed to be slope like, meaning that they changed slowly and in one direction as the table moved through it's range. However, the changes in the surface of the chuck, after grinding, seemed to be very localized. The needle was bumping up and down as I traversed the chuck. I don't think I could draw a conclusion here. All that said, I really appreciate you taking the time to share some thoughts in a comment! Thanks a bunch.

@@WernersWhirligigs Yeah, the bumps were kind of what led me to this line of thought. The bumps seemed more pronounced as you moved the table toward the frame and away from it, but were smoother when moving the table length wise. If the table were tilted away or toward the frame but the wheel wasn't, this would fit. Imagine if the table were sloped to an exaggerated 30 degrees front to back. The wheel would cut a saw tooth looking profile into the table with a tooth count equal to the step over. If I were right, then the bumping of the needle while traversing in and out would be higher on one side than the other as well. It's an interesting situation. I appreciate the conversation. Good luck!

@@kupaN9 I understand now. Your description helped me visualize it. I do believe there is some slope from front to back, with the back of the table being slightly higher. The needle climbed a small bit each time I took a step across one of the T-slots towards the back of the table. You have a good eye.

Thanks! So glad hear it!

Hey Slim - thanks for the comment/questions. The honest answer is - I don't know. I don't believe that issue was discussed in the video by BeyondBallistics either. The product of citric acid and baking soda (what we made) is called Trisodium Citrate, if you want to research it further. I found the following on several medical sites, because it is used in treating various issues - "it is chemically and microbiologically stable for 28 days when stored at room temperature in 50 mL syringes". Given that it's for medical purposes, I would expect 28 days to be an extremely conservative number. I have only been storing mine since a few days before the video was posted, maybe 15 days, so I personally don't have an experience based answer, but I am expecting it to last for quite a while (whatever that means).

@WernersWhirligigs I have my citric acid ordered, going to mix up a batch and clean these vises up, then put a lid on it and I guess see if it works the next time I need it. Going to keep an eye on the whole lid thing too, not sure if it keeps off gassing and wouldn't want a big mess 😅

@@SlimPickins_07 Nice! I think you'll be happy with the results. Good idea about the lid. I have mine in a covered 5 gallon bucket and haven't run into an issue, but gassing could happen. Haha. Did you watch the part where I made the solution a second time, and it didn't go totally volcano on me? Put all of the baking soda in the water first. Then slowly add a bit of citric acid and stir. Add more and stir. Be sure all the citric acid has reacted and dissolved before you add more. It did bubble over the second time because there were still undissolved salts in the bottom of the bucket, but it wasn't nearly as bad as the first time. Good luck!!

Exactly! hahaha. Or much less water to start with. But I'm no good at that. I want to use all the space in the bucket.

You might check out this video on Project Farm's channel (ruclips.net/video/lyWHF4NoNVk/видео.htmlsi=K56jOG5zFStMYS0H). It's about car undercoating rust inhibitors. If you don't know Project Farm, this guys tests ALL kinds of stuff, side by side. He buys the things with his own money, is not sponsored, and does thoughtful and comparative tests on the products. Hands down, one of the most useful channels on RUclips. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for the comment!

Hey Gordon - I hope it works out for you! Please do let me know. What part of Australia are you in? I spent quite a bit of time traveling the farming regions along the Murray River for several years. I really enjoy visiting! Great country and nice people.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts Bernstein. Yes, for sure, I've been using Fusion 360 for several years now and have learned many shortcuts. And I also did some engineering before hand. Thanks for keeping me honest. One of these days, there will be peanuts!

Thanks for the comment and question! If you are doing an LED conversion, like in the video, and need a ballast bypass bulb, I've used a Satco S11952 (www.payless-4-lighting.com/products/satco-s11952?). This is for the 6500K variant (cooler, more white). You could also use the S119950 (3000K warmer, more yellow) and S11951 (4000K - in the middle). Here's a search on that website that shows all three. - www.payless-4-lighting.com/search?q=satco+18-inch+bypass&options%5Bprefix%5D=last Good luck!

@@WernersWhirligigs Thanks! This would be for a Dazor 2134 that I hope to modify with your ballast bypass mod and use with a 220v current (I live overseas). Looks like the flourescent bulbs have a voltage range of 120V-270V, so it looks like I should be good 😬

Thanks Rodolfo. That's a great idea. This wheel is balanced and I'm just going to leave it alone for now. I found an even better solution for the next wheels, though. I bought a box of Sopko wheel adapter parts on eBay, which had 4 of the threaded sleeves, 2 nuts, 2 washers and some balancing rings. There's enough there to make 2 working adapters, one with balancing weights (I hope, it's in the mail).

Cool! Let me know how it goes. Good luck!

Thanks so much for the comment!

You know, that's a great idea. Thank you!

Werner! My brother from another mother aus Deutschland. Thanks for the comment. I really appreciate hearing from you. I'm now working on 3D printing a balancing stand for the grinding wheel. That will be the next video and hopefully in 4 days. So many details before I can actually grind. Thanks again for saying hello. You made my day:)

I said, "MAY contain peanuts" not "WILL contain peanuts". Maybe in the next one;)

thanks! Did you see the fireworks?

This is the ONLY bulb I've been able to find in the correct size. It looks different than the one shown in on the product page. If you go to 40:22 in the video, you can see what they actually look like. The one thing I don't like is that they don't provide light for the entire length of the bulb, but I haven't found any alternatives - www.bulbamerica.com/products/satco-s11903-3w-t5-led-miniature-bi-pin-base-6500k-daylight-flourescent-tube

@@WernersWhirligigs Wow, thanks for the quick response. I assume those are the single ended bulbs. I wired my M209 exactly the way you have it but mistakenly used double ended bulbs which seems to be tripping the breakers. Thanks again!

No worries! I wasn't as fast this time, though;) The bulbs I have used, and am familiar with, are indeed the single ended bulbs. The wiring discussed in the video is set up is to accommodate that kind of bulb. For anyone else reading along, this means the power goes in and out at the same end of the bulb. However, these bulbs have connectors at both ends so it doesn't matter which way you orient the bulb in the lamp. A double-ended bulb has power going in at one end and leaving at the other end of the bulb. This type of bulb would not work in the wiring setup from this video.

@@WernersWhirligigs Great video thx! I ordered the S11903 and blew it when I turned it on, wired exactly as shown. on the box it states Double ended wiring so I'm thinking I need to use the tomb stones on the other end for the return? I opened up the bulb and that seems to be the case. I have my grandfathers old M270 that's been sitting in the basement. excited to bring it back to life!

@@pittwr ​Dangit, that stinks! How did it blow? Flash of light or noise or something? I went to the Satco page for this bulb (www.satco.com/s11903.html) and looked at the wiring diagram. You can find it on the right side of the page by clicking where it says S11903 Instructions PDF. It does show that the wiring goes to both ends of the bulb, and they show a single wire to each end. So, I think one would wire the hot wire to one of the two wires on one tombstone and the neutral to one of the two wires on the opposite tombstone. I wonder why that's not the case with my bulb... Did I buy a fake bulb and just get lucky when I wired it this way? Let me know what you do and how it works out, please. Also, it's a good idea (for future readers) to try one bulb first before installing all two or three, so you don't fry multiple bulbs.

Thanks for checking it out! I really appreciate the comment. Thank you.

Danke schön!

Thanks mate! Stay tuned...