Ford 8N 1952 Head Gasket Leak Part 1 of 3
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- Опубликовано: 19 мар 2012
- This video shows the symptoms of a leaking head gasket or possibly a cracked head on a 1952 Ford 8N tractor. Combustion gases are being expelled into the cooling system. At the end of the video I mistakenly said "belts" when I meant "hoses".
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On 8Ns they will over heat if the radiator is too full. The coolant should be just above the flues. Not all the way to the top.
Excellent point as I trouble shoot my overheating issue.
If the overflow tube is intact and you have the correct cap for your radiator (I didn't!) then overfilling is not a problem as it will eject the excess fluid out of the tube and "self level". Also make sure the thermostat is functional and oriented properly. Pointed end towards the radiator, which makes the sensing element towards the cylinder head (heat side). Most have an arrow on them to help with orientation. May want to use tie wraps to hold it in place in the hose, about 4 inches from the radiator.
If you get a new radiator, make sure it is one that comes with a cap! If you have to buy a cap for a new one (or your rebuilt radiator), check to make sure it has room in the neck to compress the spring under pressure. 8N's do not have much pressure, the cap should be a 4psi cap. But if the spring bottoms-out, then it will never relieve any pressure! And if you have combustion gases getting into the cooling system, then boom goes the radiator!
working on my first 8n, tyvm for the video. I have the whole engine apart and im going to make sure i got the right cap.
Always better to learn from someone else's mistakes!
I've been working on it off and on over the last month, when I am home. I have a part 2 now, it is almost finished. The head was cracked in 2 places, warped and had a hole into the water jacket in one of the bolt holes. I'll post a Part 3 once I get it all back together. Thanks for the compliment!
Did you have blow by to
@@gagemcclung8594 No external blow by, only internal into the water jacket. A blown head gasket of cracked head MAY lead to coolant in the oil pan, but not oil in the coolant system. In my case I had a slight oily residue in the coolant, from the exhaust gases entering the cooling system.
FYI, I posted a #2 and #3 (final) video. It was a bad cylinder head.
Gr8 info. What would cause gas in tank to boil ? (replaced cap with pin hole breather but still seams to vapor lock) other than the obvious 2n did not have any extra shroud over motor Ran great until I changed the points ,condenser ,plugs, wires, rotor, and every other component including Carb, coil ign.. I get 3-4 swipes and then it overheats. Cant find any leaks on head. Blows out thru the overflow and boils the fluid in the radiator. sprays onto distributer and quits after a few back fires. Will idle just fine but starts overheating under a load.There was no thermostat installed by previous owner. put electric fan in place of metal fan. No luck. Cleaned junk off rad. fins , no change . Next I'm testing water pump, rad flow . Am I missing anything here besides blowing the thing up !
Gas in the tank will boil if vacuum is present AND high temp (caused by clogged radiator fins, clogged cooling system, bad thermostat, etc). Make sure the pin hole is not clogged (easy). This issue can be exacerbated by a deficient cooling system. You do need a thermostat (make sure to install it properly). Electric fan is not necessary, but should be OK. Water pump could be suspect, but I would lean towards a full back-flush. Check flow through the block and radiator. Could be sediment build-up. When I pulled the Welch plugs on that same 8N, the number 4 cylinder was almost completely full of sand/grit. I pulled all 4 plugs and flushed the block and got all 60 years of sediment out of the block. Flow is great and tractor runs fine, no overheating and I harrow and bush-hog with no problems now. I don't have any flow specs on the radiator and block. Post back with any updates (hopefully success!)
thank you for your knowledge and advise !. Just bought new radiator, replacing old hoses and will look at water pump. The Therm. is placed in the hose and not really mounted correct?. The pump does not leak or squeal so? figured since I had the hood off might as well. I will do as you recommended on each cylinder... Great old rugged tractors when they run right. Used for finish mowing around house and to keep the dirt/gravel road smooth as possible.
There's a tube/valve on the right side of the radiator that points down. What's happening if you start to get lots of white smoking coming out of that valve/tube?
That tube is the overflow from the radiator, just underneath the cap. If pressure builds up too high, the cap (with a spring) will be pushed up and the extra pressure will be released through that tube. The 8N has a 4lb cooling system. If you are getting white smoke (steam) then it is overheating. If you are just getting coolant expelled, that could be from overfilling the system (only add enough fluid to cover the core.) Overheating could be caused by installing the thermostat backwards. Do you have the 160 or 180 degree thermostat and which way is it installed and is it close to the block? The white steam could also indicate a blockage in your cooling system (clogged radiator or sediment/scale in your block) or low coolant. It might be time for a good block back-flush.
One more thought, a 50/50 mix of coolant and water should not steam until a very high temperature, which would indicate an overheating situation. If you use water only, then it will steam at 212 Degrees Fahrenheit.
My Fordson Major has that exact issue exhaust gases are getting into the radiator
Were you able to fix your problem?
So you did all that, now what? Where you able to fix her? And if so, what did you find as the problem? Great video! I love the old N"s.
Still running great 8 years later!
i'm using my wife's website......question...i have water in my oil, no oil in water... head casket or cracked block??...i have ford 8N tractor...any help out there?
Cracked head or blown head gasket.
It could be just condensation built up over time. Try changing the oil and then run it a bit and see if the water returns. Normal condensation can be remedied by just running the tractor until hot enough to vaporize the moisture. If it gets worse as you run it, then I would suspect a cracked head or block or hopefully just a blown head gasket. Mine had a cracked and warped head and a blown head gasket, but no water in the oil. Lots of white smoke (water) when first started due to blown head gasket.
On my 1940 9N tractor the water bubbles a little more so it might be the head gasket i never really knew this would happen
Mine was a corroded and warped head, and a blown gasket. Had to replace both.
That gasket works in a Ford n8 NAN?
Not sure. Check Yesterdays Tractors or Just 8Ns website for parts. Other sources out there as well.
i should prob spend the money and get a new rad, waiting on a price for someone to change the guts out. =)
I just bought a new one. Local shop was going to charge about as much as a new one to fix it.
I know this video is years old, and forgive me, but I need to replace my head gasket, as water is getting into the combustion chamber. We as viewers are not as interested in all the rhetoric as much as in knowing the tips and tricks of replacing the head gasket. Namely, the sequence of tightening the dozen or so bolts. This is the second video that does NOT show it. The other one only showed up to 5 bolts, then blew thru starting the tractor. That sure was a waste of RUclips effort. We come to learn, not listen to problems that we cannot solve, or resolve wthout having the tools (the information).
Thanks for the feedback. The bolt/nut tightening sequence is documented in the Ford FO-4 manual, and is readily available on the internet. Here is a link to a current posting on Yesterday's Tractors website (a very informative site) about the tightening sequence:
forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1411184&sid=fa34f740aa0de1de08172ad449ef6ee9
The torque specs are different for head bolts and Studs. The torque spec is 50-55 ft lbs for stud nuts and 65-70 lbs ft for bolts. I hope this helps.