At first I thought you were talking about cut and scratches on the fingers when removing parts from sprue....well about that i'm a battle worn Space Marine now 😁😁😁
When I'm building infantry I use a container like an egg carton. Starting with one mini, cut off all of the pieces from the sprue and put them into the same section of the egg carton. I do this for each mini, then remove all of the mold lines. Now you have all of the pieces for each mini ready to go and can assemble them one by one without having to stop to clip and prepare more pieces.
One advise while clipping, face the flat side of the clippers towards the model. Also, get a light witha stand, its always better to have a nice, bright white light illuminating the work area. You can also use a plastic cup to store the parts you cut so they stay in a single place while you take out the rest, reduces the chances of knocking them down or pushing them away, etc. GW implements work, but they are not necessarily the best, you can get really good products (for painiting, cutting, etc) on stores dedicated to that stuff (like painting supplies from other brands, and brushes from art stores and the like, or better cutters for example from a hardware store) Get some blutack, maybe some corks or plastic cups, they can be useful to hold parts on place if you decide to subassemble, or not want to base the figure yet. Just put the figure together, stick it with blutack on a cup,and paint them like that, and after that do the base details and then stick it, or stick the entire thing to hold it in place while you paint, and so on.
Also, most people clip from the back side of the runner. So, hold the runner in front of you, hold the nippers behind it, then clip from underneath. Much easier to line up your cuts and makes it easier to hold onto the part so it doesn't fly off. I don't build minis, but I've built plenty of Gundam models over the years. Many of the same tricks apply to both.
@@Warpia40k great advice there. Flip side of models on sprues can be to clip it off the sprue with a large stub still on the model, then trim that stub with the flat side of the clippers. Personally it allows me to get a smoother trim. There's also moments where angled side in is better for me, curved surfaces are a great example, then some careful filing to remove the stub and keep a nice smooth curve. Enjoy, and just so you know, there's plenty of other miniature games out there! Lots of different styles and genres, though I don't think anyone else has the same depth of lore. Battletech/Mechwarrior might be close, purely due to how long it's been around.
Couple of things I'd point out for your future ease: a proper light source makes all the difference for seeing all the troublesome details - I'd say thats the biggest thing that will help improve your experience. Any decently bright workdesk lamp will serve. Secondly, I don't know if the desk you're working at is an antique or expensive otherwise, but it would be wise to place down some newspaper or other protective covering so the inevitable glue droplets or paint splatter dont get all over it. Or you can simply move your operation to a table or desk that doesn't matter if it gets messed up. Otherwise, have fun building and painting, and don't worry, mistakes are part of the process. In time, you'll find ways to even incorporate your mistakes into the story of your little men.
After doing this hobby, across a stupid amount of different games, for over 20 years, the "new and shiny" enthusiasm is refreshing. You're doing great, and have already started learning some of the most important lessons (like dropping parts is a core part of assembly). Keep the videos coming!
I would recommend clipping with the sprue horizontal over a white plate or towel - helps keep them in a smaller area and easier to find when (not if) they go flying off... :) So nice to see you discovering this - just remember we have all been through what you are going through now, so keep on going!! You're doing great!
@@mmarchani thank you so much for this kind words 🫶🏻 I am gonna try your tip with the white towel! This will help me a lot since everything is dark around my work desk 😅
Congrats on your first mini! I love seeing videos of “newbies” with all this excitement and enthusiasm. Some channels on RUclips can be a bit negative at times and I always think it’s important to remember this is a hobby and it should be fun! My first mini was a space marine back in the 1990s and he only had 3 parts! The sprues these days are way more complicated than they used to be with all the detail and the amount of pieces they cram into them, but your eye will improve with practice. The instructions should tell you a letter, which if you have a lot of sprues this will tell you which one to look at. Sometimes what works for me is I pay attention to what the piece in the instructions looks like as well as the number, for example I find it easier to find each head and then look at the number next to them, rather than look for numbers. It might sound obvious but when I started doing that I found it much easier. If I’m “in the zone” it takes me about 30 mins to clip, clean, and glue a mini on average depending on the complexity. If I’m not concentrating it can take me over an hour, but I am probably way too meticulous with cleaning mould lines and filling in gaps with putty. Enjoy the hobby and I look forward to more videos of your journey!
@@Smashed1t thank you so much for your motivating words ☺️ A space marine with only 3 parts sounds really chill. I really look forward that my eye will improve and I will find the pieces faster ☺️
There is a ton of advice in these comments, so rather than repeat what others have said, i would only suggest a couple of things: - For push fit minis, if you are having trouble pushing them together, try scraping (using a hobby knife or something similar) or if there is room, even sanding (a nail file works well) the male 'pin' part of the connection so that they go together more easily. It will help you avoid big gaps when parts won't push together completely and if you over do it and the parts become too loose, you can use the glue you have there to hold them together. This can make push-fit miniatures much easier to assemble. - Please don't stop swearing. It's great. :) - There are many comments here and the *most* important thing to note is: There is no one perfect way to do things (just wait until you start painting the opinions there are endless!). Since you have a huge box of miniatures ahead of you, i strongly suggest trying a few different things as you go and find what works best for you personally and makes you the most satisfied - they're your miniatures after all ;) - Keep having fun!
@@CamelRage279 thank you so much for your kind words 🫶🏻 you’re right, since I have a a big box full of minis I can try a lot of the tips and find my way for building them ☺️
My suggestion is that you get a lamp with a adjustable arm so you can get light from different angles so you see better where you are making a cut. When you later start painting get a whitelight / daylight lightbulb for the lamp.
You shouldn't be embarrassed that you're finding it hard. Frankly, GW instructions are not always the best and the number of pieces involved in warhammer minis these days is... hilarious... You did great, looking forward to watching more of your journey.
It’ll get easier! Don’t worry about the cut-off toes on the sergeant’s foot. With a bit of strategic placement of “tufts” you’ll easily hide the mistake. ;)
To be fair, I bloody hate assembling the models as well. For me it's just a chore to get out of the way before I get to paint them, which is the actual fun bit I find.
Don't stress yourself out so much, it's not a competition about who's the fastest or most precise. Have fun assembling the minis, and if you have small errors, go with them... no one will ever pick up the mini, inspect every detail and judge you for it xD
If someone does pick up a mini, in particular without your permission, Hobby Rules state that you're then allowed to whack them with your hefty hardback rulebook (or those whippy measuring sticks GW makes, those hurt like a wet tea towel!) as punishment. They'll be less concerned about offering potentially unwanted critique. ;-) I've been in this hobby in some way or other for about 30 years now (which hurts). As others have said, welcome aboard, it really is the best hobby and the community is amazing. There's many things I want to type (and might if I can structure it all better than just a massive brain dump!) about hobby advice, narrative lore, etc. but after decades in 40K and adjacent game/narrative systems, the weirdness and vast scope don't phase me any more but a newcomer can find the scale quite daunting. Enjoy the journey, it's honestly wonderful. 🫶🏼 These first two videos (now subscribed) have made me want to go build something and pick up a brush, it's been a little while. 🤓📚🎨🎲
Great job on building your first mini! It can be very intimitating at first but we all make mistakes and you will learn. An advice i would give for clipping the parts out of the spure is to clip it further away from the parts and then after cut off the rest. That way you don't get the issue of accidentally cutting off a part of the model like you did with the foot, hope that made sense. Welcome to the hobby and have fun!
@@Warpia40k you can cut right up to the model in most cases - but the key thing is to place the flat side of the clippers against the model - that way you get a nice clean cut against the model, and the angled side of the clippers only damages the sprue.
@@phueal But it is still a better idea to leave room, especially if it is a thin piece like a sword or antenna. Cutting right against the piece puts more pressure on it, which could cause it to break - especially if said piece is still attached to the sprue elsewhere. It is better to cut away from the piece, then after it is no longer attached to the sprue, cut again against it when it is no longer under tension. It also allows better control over the angle of the cut when it matters. Getting in the habit of cutting the piece off the sprue with spare plastic then trimming off said spare plastic afterwards will prevent one from accidentally destroying delicate part during a cutting-spree zone-out.
@@hanng1242 it does take a lot longer to do it the way you’re describing - essentially twice as many cuts - but I definitely agree that when it’s a thin piece still attached elsewhere then that is prone to breaking if cut close. And in that case it can make sense to cut further away. But that’s unusual, and personally I would only cut further away in those specific cases; the rest of the time cutting right up to the piece works well for me.
@@hanng1242 For very delicate parts, I've seen some suggest using whitetack to gently hold the delicate part onto while clipping, and you can always use a scalpel to trim excess plastic away rather then cutters.
Swear as much as you want. It's a harmless release of energy. I swear enough that my friends have given me middle finger and F word decor for my office and paint space. I'm also going to recommend to get a good desk light and cutting matt. Fellow German, Stahly has a site called Tale of Painters. He does great reviews of paints and tools for minis that doesn't limit you to Citadel/GW products. Your Warhammer store should also have a beginner painting tutorial as well. It's part of the Battle Honours packet. I love seeing more fellow ladies getting into the hobby. As to my worst fail... super gluing myself to a Space Marine. I still have a small scar where I had to peel him off my thumb.
You may want to reduce swearing for algorithm purposes, although I've heard that after about 45 minutes they stop tracking that. Or you could swear in German.
I saw it had been said before, but bright, white light from above will always help. You can truly never have enough light when doing mini stuff! Love this series, hope you're having fun 😊😊
Als Anfänger würde ich immer direkt nach Bauanleitung vorgehen: Jeden Schritt einzeln (nur die Nummern rausmachen, die Angezeigt werden), rausschneiden, entgraden, zusammenbasteln und dann weiter zum nächsten! Und echt Zeit dabei lassen: Wo soll was hin!? Schön langsam! Keine Angst, man wird schneller und man wird immer, bei einigen Sets fluchen müssen, dass ist normal! 😉 Merke: Der Spass beginnt erst nachdem die Grundierung drauf ist! P.s. Ich empfehle immer die Videos vom Chefoberboss, hier auf RUclips zu gucken, der hat schöne, einfache Tutorials, für's bauen, grundieren und bemalen - und man bekommt nicht gleich einen Schlaganfall, bei der Bemalung! Probiers mal aus, der hat mich durch seine Videos zurück ins Hobby gebracht!👍 Edit: Ach, ja und wenn etwas zerbricht, kann man es immer wieder zusammenpappen, keine Panik - nur nicht das kaputte Teil wegschmeissen oder fallenlassen, dann Panik!😂
Danke dir für den super Tipp mit Chefoberboss, seine Videos werde ich mir gleich mal angucken! 🤗 Und Panik tritt aktuell noch bei jedem ausknipsen auf 😅
I Remember my first mini, went for Eldar 22 years ago. Got a squad and a War Walker. War walkers were still metal back then and boy was it hard to put together.. gotta say though the assembly experience has changed quite a bit over the years, models of today are more dynamic and detailed but the older kits were interchangeable and more poseble.
Always separate parts by model and put them into a tray. Other tips: -For glueing, there is really only one brand: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement; this is actually more a solvent that makes the plastic soft, and then it evaporated quickly leaving no remains or stains. -When clipping, always clip with the flat side facing AWAY from the model. This will leave a small hump behind that you can then easily cut off or scrape off. -Don't worry about minor mistakes, you can always fill up small holes with putty. I strongly advise to use water soluble acrylic putty. Apply it, wait until it is half dry after 15min and then gently wash excess off with a wet cotton Q-tip.
this is so adorable to watch...it gets easyer the more figs you build...i built my first few guys without the help of the numbers😂 would def recomend doing that lol
Two things I found a massive game-changer for me when starting with 40k again were getting good clippers, and good glue. Tamiya are a brand worth looking at. Obviously you don't need glue yet for all these push-fit models, but once you do need to start gluing stuff, Tamiya Extra Thin is brilliant stuff and will make putting things together a breeze.
If You have trouble with clipping them out. I would seriously recommend some 20-60 $ tamiya clippers. The better they are the less they slide along the sprew when you clip and dig into the model. I got some mid level and they cut through like butter without sliding at all. You can get really close to the model without worry and just makes the process easier overall. Absolutely love just clipping now. Cheap ones were far worse than I realized. Worth the investment if you plan to stick with the hobby and do many models.
I played and painted over 20 years ago, but stopped as I grew up. A few months ago I picked up the Age of Sigmar introductory set. Built my models, painted a few and immediately fell back in love with the hobby. I am now building everything from the Skaventide box. It is a lot of work. Takes hours to build one or two of the plastic sheets. My desk light was a very essential upgrade. It screws on the edge of my desk and can be pulled above whenever I build or paint. As someone else mentioned, ensure the flat edge of the snips are against the model for each cut to avoid incorrectly snipping the model. Although that still happens often for me. I try to cut a little further from the model and then use a nail file to shave any excess away. Gave you a subscribe. Excited to follow your journey as I begin mine
I envy you the beginning of a great adventure, the excitement of discovering new things in this hobby, and the fact that there is so much still to discover. Great job! I'm waiting for the next videos.
Welcome to the hobby! Good luck on your journey. I remember when I first started I had the boxes on my table for months because I was so scared of messing up and I started with Necrons, their little flimsy arms and pieces made me worry. I learned that clipping some sprue with the mini then using a nail file to clean up the extra bit helped with the nerves. The clippers can sometimes pull more material then you thought they would, using a file gives you more control of what you are removing.
If someone hasn't mentioned it. Get some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, I use it to glue most of my mini's. You can also convert a bottle into Sprue goo by filling it with a whole bunch of plastic clippings from the sprue frames and leave them to melt for a day, this I've found is usually the best way to fill small gaps and repair breaks. Liquid green stuff kinda sucks and Miliput is better for bigger gaps.
@@markusschmiesek9294 Dankeschön, wie sagt man so schön ,es ist noch kein Meister vom Himmel gefallen‘ 😌 aber ich bin wirklich irgendwo beruhigt zu lesen, dass ich mich nicht anstelle wie der letzte Horst 😅
There's been some excellent advice in the comments so far. Like getting yourself a hobby light, cutting the pieces off the sprue with the flat side of your cutters as close to the peice as possible. I'll add one or two things I've learned from my hobby journey: -Use only a small amount of glue. If the glue overflows onto the model you can end up with some ugly glue marks on some of your mini's details. -And as someone who also struggles with being overwhelmed with so much stuff, I like to do only 5 minis at once. I focus on one model at a time, cut out all the pieces, remove all the mold lines and build as much as I can but I leave off any pieces that might make the model harder to paint later (like guns that cover up the chest). Once you've done 5, you can spray prime them and they will be ready for when you feel like painting. This way, you have options for what you can do when you have hobby time, depending on your mood.
To the point of glue... Also you can leave fingerprints in the plastic if using something like Tamaya and use too much...then touch it without realizing. Personal experience 😂 little bit goes a long way
Congratulations Pia! First mini is always the hardest... There is some great advice from other commenters on here, but what I will add is sometimes removing mold lines or filing down bumps from sprue connections is easier before assembling the mini. It really depends how much you want to invest in cleaning up the mini. I am sure all of us watching were cheering for you and we all know the pain of cutting the wrong piece. The parts of the minis do not always make logical sense how they are cast, they are done to be as efficient in the process as possible rather than looking like 'regular' body parts which makes finding them and fitting them a greater challenge. Don't worry about swearing - it comes with the hobby! Even those of with much experience completing minis will still swear... =D. Keep having fun and enjoy your journey! Cheers from Melbourne, Australia
You did great! My first was also a humbling experience. The sprues are designed to be the cost efficient not user friendly. I am old, have bad eyes, spent years building Gundam models, and it takes me forever to put a mini together. Miss snips can be fixed, or become battle damage. Biggest help for me was getting a magnifying lamp that clamps to my desk, makes finding parts, assembly and especially painting easier when they are magnified 5x.
@@carlcapossere4903 already took another lamp to the desk - so no squeezing of the eyes anymore 😅 Thank you so much for your words, it motivates me a lot and is also good to know, that nearly everyone had the same start 🫶🏻
I started myself doing warhammer 40k minis year ago, started from astra militarum (imperial guard), and at first i was daunted as well, but with time i started to recognise the pattern of how all the parts are near each other and it became much more easier and bearable, keep assembling and you will succeed! Thank you for your videos
@@JC_WT Not him, but since I also have a company of IG, I'd say it may be the overall cost of the army since at the beginning you have a choice of a tank/vehicle strong army or a infantry heavy one with tons of Imperial soldiers. Both can be a bit expensive and also take a while to paint (it becomes quicker fast, though. I remember that me and my friend painted 20 soldiers in not even two hours once because of all the routine we had gotten out of painting all the miniatures) The pro's and cons in the game itself are pretty much the same. The variety of units you need for a good army. Firing lines of human meat shields, heavy tanks, transports, air and artillery support etc. It all has to work together. If done right it can be the horror of every enemy army. If the army lacks certain stuff or the enemy destroys important key units they can break the back of your army. So you have to play more tactical as you would with elite armies or heavily offensive cheap armies like Tyranids and orks. And don't be too afraid to lose guardsman. If killing enemies or holding them back with their bodies/leading bullets away from more important units, they will do their duty one way or the other.
@@NoLiveking87 Thanks so much for the well reasoned reply! I've actually already gone ahead and ordered the Imperial Guard Combat Patrol kit not long before I read this haha. I think of all the different armies, the IG kept sticking out to me. And when reading suggestions of good starting armies, the advice I read over and over again was to go with the "rule of cool" and just get what you're really into. I'm a huge military history nerd, I already do military themed scale modelling, and I'm a seasoned War Thunder player. So the IG just felt like the most natural fit. What seems to have worked out well with this choice too, is that I was looking for an army that could be tricky to use, and doesn't always work well, but when the stars align it absolutely slaps. And from what I've been reading so far this could be a great army for that. I also really like how it seems a lot of the IG tactics are based on how real human armies would function. I don't know, I feel like I made the right choice as regardless of the meta I'm just super excited to build up a huge army and learn about how to use them well! Thanks again, I really appreciate the info 😸👍
@@JC_WT The guy already asnwered before me, but yes, everything he said is true. Although since GW left my country a while ago due to some all known reasons, i buy all my warhammer minis from "illegal" third party recasters (but since there is now jurisdictional presence of GW they can't do shit), the quality of the recast is the same, since they use the original sprues and make forms from it, and its like 4x times cheaper than original GW products, so in that context the price of the army is not an issue for me. The combat patrol (i guess the one with 25 troops, two artillery guns and sentinel) is a great bsae for further expanding your IG force, from that you can lean into anything, i myself started from it basically. And the flavour and fluff of IG is so fun, it was the only army i really feel any connection to really, the simple humans withstanding against the horrors of the galaxy, no ceramite armor, no super human genetics, just lasgun, bayonet and of course armored might! And as was that by the guy before me, the initial painting might be difficult due to sheer quantity of models, but with time you get painting them really fast without problems. And i agree the aestethic of IG armour is so cool, yea its just copypaste of ww1 tropes but man do those leman russes tanks look juicy And remember brother, planet broke before guard did!
A tip from me: If you are new (or took a break from the hobby for some time), start with easier miniatures, preferably some base troops. That way you'll have more experience when you work on your hero characters. Most things can be relatively easy to fix, but if you "ruin" anything accidentally, it's better to have a "ruined" one regular dude in a squad, then your lieutenant or sergeant. Same with painting, practice on regular dudes before moving to more detailed and complicated ones.
I played 40k in high school and stop 4-5 years later but I'm back when I heard about the 10th edition and I'm so glad to see so much new peoples to the hobby! I'm still not good at the game but man I love the univers, the setting
We also have the saying 'looking for a needle in a haystack' here in the UK. Don't worry if you score a bit by accident or lose a foot or something ...... just call it 'battle damage'! 😉😄
One really good upgrade would be a single edge nipper (or flush cutter) for close finishing cuts to the model. I would still use the normal clippers (upgrade to Tamiya for eg.) to clip off the sprue as that's what they're best for though. Have a look at some RUclips videos on the difference between single and double edge nippers!
double edge is better, in nearly any situation of cutting. even when cutting cables, nails, leather, surgery scissors. even sheet metal cutters are double bladed. single edge is best when you cut large pieces of metal plates and thick metal, powered by hydralics. with one blade; it has to go twice as far into the material, meaning the bevels of it will push the plastic, furter than normal, causing more stress. Were cutting plastic, so theres no world where the thickness of the blade is important in terms of withstanding force. they dont have to be thick. Pluss youre adding an extra unecessary step to the process and an extra tool. regular thin precision side cutters will be best and cheaper
great to see the hype from new hobbyists. You might find it helpful to get a bright desk lamp. Assembly can be made more difficult in dim light. keep at it! if you got the Leviathan box then you have plenty more assembly still to go. Remember, its fine to tackle the assembly process in portions. Pace yourself to assure the preservation of your sanity! The painting process is much more enjoyable.
I started building warhammer minis fairly recently too! I have a small army of thousand sons at the moment and i just started painting some 3rd generation tyranid termagants. I have to say that despite looking more complicated tyranids are fairly easy to assemble compared to space marines but that might be my preference. Also one small tip i can give is if you are having difficulty cutting the pieces from the sprews with the hobby pliers, you can use some toe nail clippers, instead ( the ones that look similar to hobby pliers) as they have a curved edge and make it easier to get the edge right next to the piece without damaging it . Also i found that using an epoxy based clay or eventhe kind of modeling clay that comes in jars do a really good job at filling gaps made from those types of happy accidents , my best advice i can give is to keep going! Because practice makes perfect!
@@Warpia40k Yes , they have a lot of detail to them but I found an easy way to paint them , you can share it with your BF if want. Just prime them with gold paint first . THEN add in the other colours. If you accidentally leave a smudge or a spot somewhere that it isn't supposed to be that colour , take a clean brush, dunk it in water. And gently wipe the paint off . Since gold is a reflective metallic colour its much easier to see while painting over it when compared to blue . Hope this helps!
My recommended list of extra tools: - Magnification: I use magnifying glasses with swappable lenses. Eyesight is horrible, so this helps while building and painting. Even with this, some miniatures are REALLY hard to determine if you're cutting in the right place. May Sigmar have mercy on you if you buy AoS Nighthaunt. - Good lighting: Lights on the glasses, two standing lamps with extra spotlights and a magnifier lamp with a ring of LEDs just to be safe. - Cutting/painting mat: A generic hobby cutting mat should do, but something like the Green Stuff World silicone mat is even better. It has edges to keep stuff from rolling off, so I can leave drill bits etc. on it safely. I rarely have model parts falling off the table now. - The aforementioned drill bits and a hand drill to drill open gun barrels. Because why not? - Vallejo plastic putty, Milliput or Green Stuff for those models where you somehow have huge gaps where they shouldn't be. Honourable mentions: - That assembly thing from GW with flexible arms and clips can work while assembling SOME large models. I mostly collect small stuff, so it hasn't been that useful, but it's nice when you've got something appropriate. - 3D printer: I constantly lose miniature bases to the warp. Mine is basically a dice holder & 25/32mm base factory. I may print manufactorum walls for it if this trend continues. Impossible, but nice to have: - Steady fingers which don't twitch so parts go flying across the room, never to be seen again before they feed the vacuum cleaner. Krak grenades - I hardly knew ye.
Wow thank you so much for that amazing and detailed recommendations 🤩 I made a screenshot to have it saved! Fun fact: I am a Body Piercer and Tattoo Artist and my hands are normally very steady. But here - no way 🙈😂
When clipping off a tiny part, you can make it easier for yourself by clipping off part of the surrounding sprue itself. Then, if you want to make sure it doesn't fly off, you can tape down the small piece to keep (preferably on a mat you don't mind scuffing a bit), and clip off the loose sprue part. The sprue fraction might fly off, but the piece you taped down is safe and secure. :) Blue-tack also works. A variant of this tip is to have a large-ish translucent plastic bag and put your hands inside it and clip inside, so if the part flies off, it stays in the bag. That's a bit more finicky, but works if you don't have a good working surface.
Keep the sprues, when you come to glueing and painting; you can use them to test on so you understand how those processes work without wrecking the expensive minis For a painting stand I use one of those small pots that had a ginger / turmeric shot in it and put some blutak on the lid. Wine corks also work, but I find my hands cramp up a bit with them. When i'm assembling I have a USB LED light and a pair of wearable magnifying glasses. Plastic Glue fixes most anything, again look at Tamiya or Revell. When you get to painting, a rattle can spray makes life easier; but you need the right temperature (about 20C) for it to work and it's not recommended to breathe it in; so go to a spare room or garage, open a window, put a mask on and make a makeshift spray booth out of a cardboard box. You can pretend you are outdoors if it helps. The GW ones are good but expensive. There's a parallel hobby in Japan called "Gunpla" - Tamiya make all sorts of hobby tools for this that are usually cheaper than the Games Workshop ones and much better quality, the snippers and files especially. Do a quick search on how to make a "wet palette" for actual painting; you can make one for a couple of Euros with a tupperware box (or plastic food delivery container), a dish sponge and some greaseproof paper (for baking). Buy some stainless steel ballbearings from amazon for 5 or 6 euros for 100 and drop a couple in each paint pot you buy as they will help shake the paint up. They are good for nail varnish too. (make sure stainless steel!) Someone mentioned egg cups earlier, and that was a good tip.
This is the most wholesome hobby video I've seen this year, i got back into the hobby a couple of years ago after being away from it for over a decade and the new sprues are crazy with the pieces and details now, it gets easier to find pieces on them with time though and personally I've found with minis i build regularly, i can find most of the pieces without having to look, welcome to the hobby and have fun!
If you break them they can be glued back together. I use gel superglue so its not runny... there are liquid hole filler epoxies you can use to fill in gaps. I use a small set of files and xacto knives to shave uneven bits and sprue from the models. The models you make now will look very different from the ones you make a month from now. Youre doing fine.
i'm very new to this side of the hobby, mostly got into 40k through HH book series, what I have come to realize is it's okay to fuck up. Our first couple boxes (although expensive) they are trial and error. Building isn't what gets me, I love it because it's kinesthetic for me. So I learn that easily. My issue is the fucking painting. My GOD! Some of you 40k old heads are lying out yo asses when it comes to "painting not being a big deal". lol! xD But the one thing I've learned, you can always cut more off and paint more on. But you can't undo it. So under cut rather than over cut and Thinly paint the models; you can always add more.
Haha. I used to hate painting. But over the past few years something clicked in me and it's now the bit I like most. I think it's because I started actually investing into the right brushes and good paints. Makes a heck of a difference.
You can do it! One thing that helps is to not clip so close to the pieces that you want. Clip a bit of the sprue with it, then clean it up without the tension on it that the frame puts on it.
Hey, great work! One tip - you will find cutting, assembling and eventually painting much easier if you firmly plant both elbows on the tabletop to give yourself a rigid foundation. It eliminates your shake and maximises control. Even better if you can rest the heels of your hands against each other, as though they were tied together - though this part of it is more feasible when painting than assembling. This is the position of power and it really is a magic bullet for your manual dexterity. I can't imagine doing any of this with my elbows against my stomach or worse, in thin air
When making squads up, I always start with whichever model uses part number one, this often might be the 2nd or 3rd model in the build guide, once that first model is built, then move on to whichever uses the next lowest remaining number, I often find if you do that you then make less mistakes with cutting off the wrong part then you will if you try and build the models in the order GW put them in in the build guide booklet, it does admittedly mean you may be flicking through the build guide a lot, but it does save yourself from making mistakes during the builds. Also with push fit miniatures, sometimes it's worth either clipping or sanding off part of the pegs, as once you add glue to the peg hole, the glue in the bottom of the peg hole keeps part of the peg out causing your model to have gaps, by trimming the pegs down, you leave a little space so excess glue doesn't then cause the part to stay separated.
I've been building the Hive Secundus box, and jeeze-o-pete. Some of the stuff almost snaps together, some of them I can't tell which way they go, but if I don't put it in right the next piece won't fit right. The flingin' flangin' Orrus suits have 25-30 separate parts EACH. Just the legs are 5 parts for each one. I find it useful to batch assemble minis too. Don't clip out all the parts of a single one, just the first 2 or 3 parts. Glue them together, then go to the next model and clip out 2 or 3 for that one too. Repeat until you have 4 or 5 started. Then go back to the first one. The first couple of parts you did should be firmly stuck together so clip out and glue the next part. Move to the second guy, do the next part for that one, etc.
My introduction to the hobby, 35 years ago, was HeroQuest. By coincidence, there were 35 minis in the box, plus some cardboard and plastic furniture. Only 1 of the minis was multi-piece (the Gargoyle had a seperate body, head and wings, and they were push-fit). The single piece monsters could all simply be twisted off the sprue, because the joins were at the base. Almost like they were in fact designing the kit for beginners.
I promise it gets easier!!!!! I made the mistake of doing a giant model for my first one and it was the most difficult thing to do T____T. Small things, army painter has a set of files which help for different angles after removing from the sprew! Plastic gloves are going to be your best friend when using glue, if you accidentally use too much you can use the gloves to wipe away bubbles etc after applying. Don't worry too hard about building, it'll eventually be like putting legos together!
It's really nice to see new folks even as adults getting into the hobby, I've been doing it for many years and I've never stopped I love the calmness it brings you. Keep it up don't get discouraged that's part of starting anything new. You will do great. Welcome aboard soldier! 🫡
Congratulations on building your first miniature. Don't worry it gets easier as you get used to reading the instructions. As has been said already you don't need to cut right next to the figure to get it off the sprue, just cut a bit away then cut closer when you have the piece loose it makes it a lot easier.
my best tip: get a good lamp, preferably one with white light on a swivel that you can move around. it makes it so much easier to see what you are doing and once you do you won't want to work without it. Removing mold lines in poor lighting is a nightmare. Also helps when painting small items.
You may want to get a straight razor I personally find it easier to cut the spurs . Just remember you can always use either putty or more super glue to fix it. Or even just take a different part to fix it usually I use a super glue gel. The gel stays where you put it. So it doesn’t go on your hand or run off to another part. Never be discouraged you can fix anything. Mini war games has some tutorials on how to build minis along with a host of others. You can always just google how to put it together.
It will get easier. I remember somehow cutting a space marines head in half when I just started. 😂 so far I never made the same mistake again. 🤙 have fun painting 👍
Personally I like to sub assemble, i glue the legs,greaves and torso together and glue that on a (spare) base, i glue the pauldrons to the arms and gluing the weapon to one of the hands and keep the backpack and head seperate, i then use a vise drill, a 0.85mm drill bit and paperclips and wine corks. I then drill somewhere that wont be visible when its assembled and insert the paperclip, secured with a little superglue (you can twist it off when youre done and finally apply a little masking fluid where the bits are going to be glued together that i peel off when painting (so the plastic glue has clean plastic to work on.)Having things on seperate armatures allows me to get in at all angles and fully paint the parts, without having to try and work my way around a assembled model trying to reach difficult parts to paint, which can lead to accidental brush strokes somewhere you dont want them. I also cut each piece , scrape off the mold lines and then assemble, even with my extra steps such as drilling, i can get a single model done in under 5 minutes or so.
This applies more to the full sets than push fit minis. Also don't stress about how long it takes to assemble a mini, take your time, do it right and do it well, slow is smooth, smooth is good.
Long time warhammer fan here. 20+ years. Your journey is so fun to watch. Newer Warhammer models are very fiddly and tough to locate prices because frames are made to fit economically as many bits as possible, but leads to much disorganisation of parts. Keep going and look forward to your next video.
Welcome to the hobby! It's so nice to see new people get into it! It gives me inspiration to finish my own models (three different armies and counting!). I can't wait to see you continue your journey!
Liking the content. I started with this myself, 2 months ago. Its a lil difficult at the start, but it gets better. Now i enjoy the assembly more than painting em. Keep the vids coming😁 If you want to fix em, milliput standard is the best. You can use it as a clay, or mix it with water to a slurry, and apply it to where you want to. Its great for for kitbashing/making parts. Once its hardened you can sand it. Id advice sanding sponges. Cause it follows the shape of the minis You can use milliput to fix leaks in your sink too😂 or sculpting figurines
one thing that can help with the easy to build models is to use your hobby knife and slightly taper the pins on the pieces. Helps them slide together easier so you don't have to push so hard.
@@Warpia40kAnother tip is to use plastic glue in the socket - it melts the plastic, making the hole wider, and so easier to fit. Also some pegs are too long, so snipping off a millimetre or two ensures a close fit. Have fun!
When it comes to clipping fiddly parts that look fragile you're often safer clipping the sprue close to the piece and tackling it properly when it's removed. So that you can get easier access without risk of snapping the part you need.
Use Tamiya Extra Thin. Makes it much easier. You hold two joins together and then drip the glue on top. It's so thin it seeps into the seam while the excess evaporates, leaving a perfect connection.
A few recommendations- Read through all of that beginner directions book before you just jump right in. Make sure you have all of the parts for the squad ONLY. Put all the other sprues back in the box until you are ready for that squad. Snap off or cut that large sprue into it's 3d's, and just worry about one squad/ brood at a time. Use a teacup or an egg carton bottom that the eggs sit in to keep the different parts for each figure close, before you trim off the flash (plastic left over after the part was cut off of the sprue.) Just Breath. The problem is nothing you did. GW has now made it a point to over engineer the figures, and the designers, and the guys who put the illustrated directions together never talk to each other. Look at the picture, and some of the parts, you just might have to go by their pictures. Just work with 5 or 10 in a squad at a time. GW loves baffling players with bullshit, or dazzling them with diamonds in what they put in those starter boxes. The bright light at the end of the tunnel- After they are all put together, you can use a rattle-can to spray-paint their main color, and you only have to put in the details. Looking good, keep going!
@@manofaction1807 so many great tips that I wish I would have knew before 😪 thank you so much for them, I am gonna empty the egg carton right away ☺️ also thanks for your motivating words 🫶🏻
@@Warpia40k It's getting past that first 5 that gets you over the hump. After that, you are collecting per unit, and tailoring the force for yourself. 1 command, 3 troops, a heavy and a fast to get to the table, after your first few games, you'll switch stuff out. Your priority, FIRST- Get Them into battle. Play grey, until you get your feet wet and some blood in your teeth.
Dont cut close to the model, until you feel more comfortable you can cut like half way up the sprue. Then use a craft knife and files to trim it down with more control. Then like everyone else said, mold lines, organise pieces etc.
A white hobby/desk light will help you loads. Cut with the flat side towards your minins. Green/stuff or liquid green stuff can be used to fill gaps if you get any. Scrap the mold lines before priming and painting. Yes, plenty of parts you can put on models but sometime better to start with less and add more as you go. Wait till you start diving into sub assembly! Most importantly, take your time and have fun.
A good way to avoid cutting too much when you remove parts from the sprue is to just leave a little bit if the sprue on the part. Then use a knife to remove the excess. Don't stress so much! It's okay. When it's time to paint, just remember: youre only using acrylics. No matter how many mistakes you make, an hour in some isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush will fix your mistakes. You're doing great.
The rite of passage that is finding parts on a sprue! I'm still waiting for the day GW can plan out a sprue so that all necessary parts are near each other! Great video, glad to see you're having fun with it. Welcome to the hobby!
@@konstantinoskalantzis5054 To be fair, that's true. A lot of the newer kits are organised a lot better. I remember the Kill Team kits usually having the required components next to each other. I remember the old kits, you'd have 3 parts, on 3 different sprues to finish one section of the assembly instructions 😂
Hi Pia 😊 nothing for shakeing hands, as my wife 😉 but yes good to have direct, bright light on your working place, good clippers could be for nails but better are dedicated for models (they are sharper and angle is better), white sheet is always good for your work, and try to focus on small squads like 3-5 minis. Then you know what to cut off and work will go slightly better. Just know your book and which models are in your squads. Army -> units -> models (which have some parts 😜🎉) when you think about a lot of parts try, like in the comments, to have case (from eggs is nice tip i use multicompartments boxes). Then assembling will go smoothier (just like with Marvel 😅). Who told it will be easy? But with another model you do, it will. Dont rush yourself and cya around 😊
@@Warpia40k maybe it sounds stupid but from my perspective there are no simple or advanced models in the army, its just how much effort you put in them. Anyone has more or less small diteils on it but there just time consuming not advanced.
Nothing goes right when it’s someone’s first time, that what i like about miniature painting it teaches you to look for ways to improve and connect with people. Remember anything you do for the first time will not be good and that’s okay because it’s first time doing it, that is what pushes us to improve. ONLY IN DEATH DOES DUTY END BROTHER.
With the cut on the foot don’t stress! You can put some grass on the base and no one will see it ❤. I taught myself how to make warhammer minis and paint them for my husband. He used to play when he was younger but after his accident he didn’t have the dexterity to paint them anymore so I made an army for him and now our collection grows one mini at a time 😊. But definitely invest in an overhead lamp. Possibly with a magnifying glass in it so you can see really close on your mini when it comes to painting. Also you will need more than one brush. Don’t use the same brush for a texture paint as you do for normal painting as texture paint ruins brushes. Same with metallic paints, it’s always best to have a brush and seperate pot of cleaning water for your metallic paints. A wet palette is not a must (you can also make your own at home) but they can help keeping your paints wet for longer. It helped me in the beginning because I was not very fast at painting at the start. Although primer does not come in the starter kit you definitely need a spray can of primer so the paint sticks better to the minis❤❤ can’t wait to watch you fall in love with the “plastic crack” that we have all fallen in love with!!
Awww thank you so much for your heartwarming and motivating comment and the great advices 😍 so nice that you build a warhammer team with your husband! He can be very happy to have you ❤️
Thoughts of a Random Viewer; - you could "sell saltwater to a sailor" your presentation style is fine - always save your first mini - you can usually clip the parts off and combine them one at a time in numerical order. the instructions seem to follow a different order for some reason. possibly because it's easier to illustrate. i follow the numbers out of stubbornness. - sergeants and such will usually have alternate parts so they can be a normal grunt - save the spare arms/heads to test paints - you can wedge a toothpick into them and spray paint them with test schemes or see how paints react - don't be afraid to clip the model "badly" with a lot of extra material, then, do another snip to get the big chunk of sprue off - you can use egg cartons to hold all the parts if you want to cut them all out at once - if you're going to use glue (yes it's better) then it makes sense to shorten the pegs with your clippers and widen the holes by spinning that mould line remover in the holes. the pegs are usually have an "elephant foot" anyway. - the plastic glue will melt the minis (it's acetone+acetate so will melt anything made with this styrene) so you can usually thinly paint it over the cracks when you have the model posed
Good job 👍 some suggestions; use a Sharpie and brush the side of it over the sprue numbers to make them easier to find. When clipping, hook your arm around the sprue and clip them from the back so your clipper blades are facing you, it makes it easier to see where you are cutting. I'd also use super glue rather than plastic glue when first starting out, it's less destructive and can be broken easily if it's in the wrong position. You'll get quicker with practice, but it's good when starting to have a friend do it with you to help figure things out together or learn from their experience 👍 but it's fun though, right?
@@tel2671 that with the sharpies is a amazing tip, thank you so much!! And I think super glue is a little cheaper - right? Practice, practice, practice it is ☺️ but yeah, it’s a lot of fun 🫶🏻😍
There are like two or three ways to deal damage on a mini. 1. You roll with it, injured leg? That's what they got in a battle. When painting darken that area or looks like a bullet or explosion happend there. 2. Get hobby sculpted things like greenstuff/graystuff. With one of these, you can cover the damaged area, let it dry, and if you're not satisfied, you can sand it. With greensuff/graystuff you can even sculpt things or make molds in it when you feel more confident about the mini hobby. 3. Try to glue the part back and hope for the best. Hope this helps a bit, keep up the fun journey and you'll be fine (Edit, forgot the 3rd option)
@@Warpia40k glad i could be of help^^ it is easy to want to make a mini 100% even when assembling it, but stuff happens and parts snaps or to deep hole after the use with a exactor knife or even holes in the mini before you even have started. there is alot that can happen and ceep a cool head and if you feel overwhelmed just put it aside for a bit and do another mini. :)
Don't apologise for swearing...most of us here are adults and I can assure you a large portion of us have swore when dropping some tiny grey plastic piece on the floor while building 😂 This is fun to watch, I still love the hobby years and years later but there is something magical watching someone start to fall in love with 40K!. Also, don't tell yourself you will only collect one army, that is something that will go out the window fast!
Sometimes you break small pieces, I have build minis for many years and still do (but not so often now). But when you have many minis you always have some spare parts that you haven't used that you can replace them with. What you can do is cut a little further away from the part when you cut it off the sprue and do another cut later. Also it is often a trick to use the flat side (backside) of your clipper toward the part you are cutting off. I think you did well for being your first miniature, things will go better after a while. Looking for pieces on the sprues can be hard even when you have made lots of miniatures. But when building big boxes like you do, there can be many parts with the same number or alternate ways to build the same model ans that makes it a little harder than if you just buy a single model to build. You can always hide the damaged foot with a rock or a body part of a Tyranid (if you have a spare part like a head or something) when decorating the base.
Congrats on the first, I’ve found myself drawn into warhammer 40000 videos recently and I have also been tempted to start. I will keep watching your journey into the hobby for inspiration 👍
I also recently started and am currently building my first 1k point Imperial Fists space marine army. It's interesting to see how each one you paint improves model by model.
Yesterday i assembled my new sister hospitaller. It took over two hours but i was painting some other sororitas while the glue dried so i could have been faster.
Absolutely loved both your vids! Its wonderful seeing someone start out on an amazing hobby journey; its only gets easier and easier i promise! 😂 Assembling has always been my least favourite part - i find it easier for infantry to clip each models parts out and put them in their own pile, then go through and assemble each one in turn :) that said, whatever method you find that works for you is the right method! What models did your partner get? Would be lovely down the road to see you/you both playing your first game(s)! Subbed! All the best :)
I agree with a lot of the comments above. I use a A3 piece of white paper when building to make it easier to see the bits if they fly off. Flat edge on the clippers, and dry/push fit everything. Also bits box is a must if you get into it properly
Highly recommend Tamiya snips, from the Japanese model company. They make all kinds of excellent quality tools, but their snips are nice and smooth and sharp and cut cleanly. I have yet to damage something using Tamiya snips. They also make a popular glue for plastic models, Tamiya Ultra Thin Plastic Cement. Take care if you do use plastic cement, as it is toxic and you need to be in a ventilated area or wear a mask. Since you asked for tips. Glue and paint fix most things, as well. Another tip would be to cut off the pegs for the 'no glue' models and then glue them together anyway, with plastic cement. This is because if you assemble them with the pegs, they are really difficult and some of the push-fit models have these awful cracks in them... I learned this the hard way, so that's why people say to use glue anyway. As for general... assembly... it's the roughest part for me, still. Once you have seen a model a few times it becomes easier, you start to know what you need - but matching the numbers to the pieces is still the best way, you will become more practiced but still sometimes just not be able to find a part for a few minutes... XD
Welcome to the Hobby! We wish you a very good time! And congrats for such fast Channel Growth! Worst Warhammer fail? Painting a miniature for hours and just dont liking the result
@@MannerundihrSpielzeug thank you so much, I am still overwhelmed but also very happy for that great and kind community 🤩 Oh no - but I hope that happens to everyone at some point 🥲
You can use modelling putty, greenstuff, or thick super glue to fill in spots where you over-cut. The worst part about assembling minis nowadays is hunting for all of the pieces on those overly complicated sprues. Sometimes it's a big headache. Awesome seeing someone starting their hobby from the beginning, I hope you have fun!
It’s so pleasing watching people that are new to the hobby and the excitement and enthusiasm that comes with it
@@DanMacevicius oh thank you 🙏🏻 ☺️ I really appreciate that 🫶🏻
Cuts and scratches are okay, you now have yourself a battle damaged space marine.
@@von_reginald4800 this sounds actually really brutal and cool 😎
At first I thought you were talking about cut and scratches on the fingers when removing parts from sprue....well about that i'm a battle worn Space Marine now 😁😁😁
When I'm building infantry I use a container like an egg carton. Starting with one mini, cut off all of the pieces from the sprue and put them into the same section of the egg carton. I do this for each mini, then remove all of the mold lines. Now you have all of the pieces for each mini ready to go and can assemble them one by one without having to stop to clip and prepare more pieces.
@@MTGPhlogisten my goodness, this is so helpful!! Thank you so much for that 🫶🏻
I have been in this hobby for THIRTY ONE YEARS and you show me up like that?
This is such a good tip….toOoo the fridge Batman!
That's a great idea
I never thought about this! Thank you!!
One advise while clipping, face the flat side of the clippers towards the model.
Also, get a light witha stand, its always better to have a nice, bright white light illuminating the work area.
You can also use a plastic cup to store the parts you cut so they stay in a single place while you take out the rest, reduces the chances of knocking them down or pushing them away, etc.
GW implements work, but they are not necessarily the best, you can get really good products (for painiting, cutting, etc) on stores dedicated to that stuff (like painting supplies from other brands, and brushes from art stores and the like, or better cutters for example from a hardware store)
Get some blutack, maybe some corks or plastic cups, they can be useful to hold parts on place if you decide to subassemble, or not want to base the figure yet. Just put the figure together, stick it with blutack on a cup,and paint them like that, and after that do the base details and then stick it, or stick the entire thing to hold it in place while you paint, and so on.
This
@@Darkja thank you so much for this great input ☺️🫶🏻 it will help me a lot in the future!
Also, most people clip from the back side of the runner. So, hold the runner in front of you, hold the nippers behind it, then clip from underneath. Much easier to line up your cuts and makes it easier to hold onto the part so it doesn't fly off. I don't build minis, but I've built plenty of Gundam models over the years. Many of the same tricks apply to both.
@@Warpia40k great advice there. Flip side of models on sprues can be to clip it off the sprue with a large stub still on the model, then trim that stub with the flat side of the clippers. Personally it allows me to get a smoother trim. There's also moments where angled side in is better for me, curved surfaces are a great example, then some careful filing to remove the stub and keep a nice smooth curve.
Enjoy, and just so you know, there's plenty of other miniature games out there! Lots of different styles and genres, though I don't think anyone else has the same depth of lore. Battletech/Mechwarrior might be close, purely due to how long it's been around.
This.
This would be a good video for product designers at any miniature company to watch.
Haha yes!! GW - do you see this???
Couple of things I'd point out for your future ease: a proper light source makes all the difference for seeing all the troublesome details - I'd say thats the biggest thing that will help improve your experience. Any decently bright workdesk lamp will serve. Secondly, I don't know if the desk you're working at is an antique or expensive otherwise, but it would be wise to place down some newspaper or other protective covering so the inevitable glue droplets or paint splatter dont get all over it. Or you can simply move your operation to a table or desk that doesn't matter if it gets messed up.
Otherwise, have fun building and painting, and don't worry, mistakes are part of the process. In time, you'll find ways to even incorporate your mistakes into the story of your little men.
After doing this hobby, across a stupid amount of different games, for over 20 years, the "new and shiny" enthusiasm is refreshing. You're doing great, and have already started learning some of the most important lessons (like dropping parts is a core part of assembly). Keep the videos coming!
thank you so much!! dropping is also heart stopping 😅
I would recommend clipping with the sprue horizontal over a white plate or towel - helps keep them in a smaller area and easier to find when (not if) they go flying off... :) So nice to see you discovering this - just remember we have all been through what you are going through now, so keep on going!! You're doing great!
@@mmarchani thank you so much for this kind words 🫶🏻
I am gonna try your tip with the white towel! This will help me a lot since everything is dark around my work desk 😅
Congrats on your first mini! I love seeing videos of “newbies” with all this excitement and enthusiasm. Some channels on RUclips can be a bit negative at times and I always think it’s important to remember this is a hobby and it should be fun! My first mini was a space marine back in the 1990s and he only had 3 parts! The sprues these days are way more complicated than they used to be with all the detail and the amount of pieces they cram into them, but your eye will improve with practice. The instructions should tell you a letter, which if you have a lot of sprues this will tell you which one to look at. Sometimes what works for me is I pay attention to what the piece in the instructions looks like as well as the number, for example I find it easier to find each head and then look at the number next to them, rather than look for numbers. It might sound obvious but when I started doing that I found it much easier. If I’m “in the zone” it takes me about 30 mins to clip, clean, and glue a mini on average depending on the complexity. If I’m not concentrating it can take me over an hour, but I am probably way too meticulous with cleaning mould lines and filling in gaps with putty. Enjoy the hobby and I look forward to more videos of your journey!
@@Smashed1t thank you so much for your motivating words ☺️
A space marine with only 3 parts sounds really chill. I really look forward that my eye will improve and I will find the pieces faster ☺️
There is a ton of advice in these comments, so rather than repeat what others have said, i would only suggest a couple of things:
- For push fit minis, if you are having trouble pushing them together, try scraping (using a hobby knife or something similar) or if there is room, even sanding (a nail file works well) the male 'pin' part of the connection so that they go together more easily. It will help you avoid big gaps when parts won't push together completely and if you over do it and the parts become too loose, you can use the glue you have there to hold them together. This can make push-fit miniatures much easier to assemble.
- Please don't stop swearing. It's great. :)
- There are many comments here and the *most* important thing to note is: There is no one perfect way to do things (just wait until you start painting the opinions there are endless!). Since you have a huge box of miniatures ahead of you, i strongly suggest trying a few different things as you go and find what works best for you personally and makes you the most satisfied - they're your miniatures after all ;)
- Keep having fun!
@@CamelRage279 thank you so much for your kind words 🫶🏻 you’re right, since I have a a big box full of minis I can try a lot of the tips and find my way for building them ☺️
My suggestion is that you get a lamp with a adjustable arm so you can get light from different angles so you see better where you are making a cut. When you later start painting get a whitelight / daylight lightbulb for the lamp.
Really good advice, thank you ☺️ would you also recommend a headlamp?
@@Warpia40k Yes. I've seen people with jewellery glasses to magnify and see the details for painting. They also come with lights, so 2 in 1 solution.
@@Warpia40kIkea has an adjustable lamp at great price. if you get two for your either side you can prevent shadows and have great illumination!
You shouldn't be embarrassed that you're finding it hard. Frankly, GW instructions are not always the best and the number of pieces involved in warhammer minis these days is... hilarious... You did great, looking forward to watching more of your journey.
Thanks for the encouragement! Well, the swedish company I worked for, had similar issues with manuals. 😄
This is why I get 3D printed stuff from ebay, I can build models in like 5-6 pieces that GW would have made 50 pieces for literally no reason.
It’ll get easier! Don’t worry about the cut-off toes on the sergeant’s foot. With a bit of strategic placement of “tufts” you’ll easily hide the mistake. ;)
@@Imladrith ohhh perfect ☺️ thank you for that tip 🫶🏻
To be fair, I bloody hate assembling the models as well. For me it's just a chore to get out of the way before I get to paint them, which is the actual fun bit I find.
Don't stress yourself out so much, it's not a competition about who's the fastest or most precise. Have fun assembling the minis, and if you have small errors, go with them... no one will ever pick up the mini, inspect every detail and judge you for it xD
Thank you! I☺ 'm trying not to. It's just making me nervous to know, one wrong cut destroys a 10€ mini.
If someone does pick up a mini, in particular without your permission, Hobby Rules state that you're then allowed to whack them with your hefty hardback rulebook (or those whippy measuring sticks GW makes, those hurt like a wet tea towel!) as punishment. They'll be less concerned about offering potentially unwanted critique. ;-)
I've been in this hobby in some way or other for about 30 years now (which hurts). As others have said, welcome aboard, it really is the best hobby and the community is amazing.
There's many things I want to type (and might if I can structure it all better than just a massive brain dump!) about hobby advice, narrative lore, etc. but after decades in 40K and adjacent game/narrative systems, the weirdness and vast scope don't phase me any more but a newcomer can find the scale quite daunting. Enjoy the journey, it's honestly wonderful. 🫶🏼
These first two videos (now subscribed) have made me want to go build something and pick up a brush, it's been a little while. 🤓📚🎨🎲
Great job on building your first mini! It can be very intimitating at first but we all make mistakes and you will learn. An advice i would give for clipping the parts out of the spure is to clip it further away from the parts and then after cut off the rest. That way you don't get the issue of accidentally cutting off a part of the model like you did with the foot, hope that made sense.
Welcome to the hobby and have fun!
@@TheConjugate oh my.. I feel so stupid 🙈 you’re absolutely right, that’s a great advice! Thank you a lot for that!!🫶🏻
@@Warpia40k you can cut right up to the model in most cases - but the key thing is to place the flat side of the clippers against the model - that way you get a nice clean cut against the model, and the angled side of the clippers only damages the sprue.
@@phueal But it is still a better idea to leave room, especially if it is a thin piece like a sword or antenna. Cutting right against the piece puts more pressure on it, which could cause it to break - especially if said piece is still attached to the sprue elsewhere. It is better to cut away from the piece, then after it is no longer attached to the sprue, cut again against it when it is no longer under tension. It also allows better control over the angle of the cut when it matters. Getting in the habit of cutting the piece off the sprue with spare plastic then trimming off said spare plastic afterwards will prevent one from accidentally destroying delicate part during a cutting-spree zone-out.
@@hanng1242 it does take a lot longer to do it the way you’re describing - essentially twice as many cuts - but I definitely agree that when it’s a thin piece still attached elsewhere then that is prone to breaking if cut close. And in that case it can make sense to cut further away. But that’s unusual, and personally I would only cut further away in those specific cases; the rest of the time cutting right up to the piece works well for me.
@@hanng1242 For very delicate parts, I've seen some suggest using whitetack to gently hold the delicate part onto while clipping, and you can always use a scalpel to trim excess plastic away rather then cutters.
Swear as much as you want. It's a harmless release of energy. I swear enough that my friends have given me middle finger and F word decor for my office and paint space. I'm also going to recommend to get a good desk light and cutting matt. Fellow German, Stahly has a site called Tale of Painters. He does great reviews of paints and tools for minis that doesn't limit you to Citadel/GW products. Your Warhammer store should also have a beginner painting tutorial as well. It's part of the Battle Honours packet. I love seeing more fellow ladies getting into the hobby.
As to my worst fail... super gluing myself to a Space Marine. I still have a small scar where I had to peel him off my thumb.
Haha, you are right. 😄 Tale of Painters is noted. 😊
You may want to reduce swearing for algorithm purposes, although I've heard that after about 45 minutes they stop tracking that.
Or you could swear in German.
I saw it had been said before, but bright, white light from above will always help. You can truly never have enough light when doing mini stuff!
Love this series, hope you're having fun 😊😊
Dont worry about clipping something away or break a part, remember there is nothing you cant fix with glue or greenstuff
thats really good to hear, thank you!! 😊
Als Anfänger würde ich immer direkt nach Bauanleitung vorgehen: Jeden Schritt einzeln (nur die Nummern rausmachen, die Angezeigt werden), rausschneiden, entgraden, zusammenbasteln und dann weiter zum nächsten! Und echt Zeit dabei lassen: Wo soll was hin!? Schön langsam! Keine Angst, man wird schneller und man wird immer, bei einigen Sets fluchen müssen, dass ist normal! 😉 Merke: Der Spass beginnt erst nachdem die Grundierung drauf ist! P.s. Ich empfehle immer die Videos vom Chefoberboss, hier auf RUclips zu gucken, der hat schöne, einfache Tutorials, für's bauen, grundieren und bemalen - und man bekommt nicht gleich einen Schlaganfall, bei der Bemalung! Probiers mal aus, der hat mich durch seine Videos zurück ins Hobby gebracht!👍 Edit: Ach, ja und wenn etwas zerbricht, kann man es immer wieder zusammenpappen, keine Panik - nur nicht das kaputte Teil wegschmeissen oder fallenlassen, dann Panik!😂
Danke dir für den super Tipp mit Chefoberboss, seine Videos werde ich mir gleich mal angucken! 🤗
Und Panik tritt aktuell noch bei jedem ausknipsen auf 😅
I Remember my first mini, went for Eldar 22 years ago. Got a squad and a War Walker. War walkers were still metal back then and boy was it hard to put together.. gotta say though the assembly experience has changed quite a bit over the years, models of today are more dynamic and detailed but the older kits were interchangeable and more poseble.
@@MrDuDeTheFirst So we have another 40k veteran here 🤩 I really appreciate that you share the stories of the ,old times‘ with me 🫶🏻
Always separate parts by model and put them into a tray. Other tips:
-For glueing, there is really only one brand: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement; this is actually more a solvent that makes the plastic soft, and then it evaporated quickly leaving no remains or stains.
-When clipping, always clip with the flat side facing AWAY from the model. This will leave a small hump behind that you can then easily cut off or scrape off.
-Don't worry about minor mistakes, you can always fill up small holes with putty. I strongly advise to use water soluble acrylic putty. Apply it, wait until it is half dry after 15min and then gently wash excess off with a wet cotton Q-tip.
this is so adorable to watch...it gets easyer the more figs you build...i built my first few guys without the help of the numbers😂
would def recomend doing that lol
@@L3yla42 thank you ☺️ oh like I thought practice, practice, practice! And hopefully my hands are also more steady then 😅
Two things I found a massive game-changer for me when starting with 40k again were getting good clippers, and good glue. Tamiya are a brand worth looking at. Obviously you don't need glue yet for all these push-fit models, but once you do need to start gluing stuff, Tamiya Extra Thin is brilliant stuff and will make putting things together a breeze.
Thank you, Tamiya is noted ☺️
If You have trouble with clipping them out. I would seriously recommend some 20-60 $ tamiya clippers. The better they are the less they slide along the sprew when you clip and dig into the model. I got some mid level and they cut through like butter without sliding at all. You can get really close to the model without worry and just makes the process easier overall. Absolutely love just clipping now. Cheap ones were far worse than I realized. Worth the investment if you plan to stick with the hobby and do many models.
@@merccc1 I def gonna invest in that tool!! Thank you so much for this tip, it’s gonna help me a lot ☺️
This is good advice. Good clippers make all the difference, honestly.
I played and painted over 20 years ago, but stopped as I grew up. A few months ago I picked up the Age of Sigmar introductory set. Built my models, painted a few and immediately fell back in love with the hobby. I am now building everything from the Skaventide box. It is a lot of work. Takes hours to build one or two of the plastic sheets. My desk light was a very essential upgrade. It screws on the edge of my desk and can be pulled above whenever I build or paint.
As someone else mentioned, ensure the flat edge of the snips are against the model for each cut to avoid incorrectly snipping the model. Although that still happens often for me. I try to cut a little further from the model and then use a nail file to shave any excess away.
Gave you a subscribe. Excited to follow your journey as I begin mine
Its so sweet to see a new person get into the hobby
I really appreciate that! 😊I really enjoy the process so far, even with all the little mistakes. I'm gonna sit on this army some time anyways. 😅
I envy you the beginning of a great adventure, the excitement of discovering new things in this hobby, and the fact that there is so much still to discover.
Great job! I'm waiting for the next videos.
It's so much to get into, but I got so many nice tips here in the comment section. My list is growing... 🙂
Welcome to the hobby! Good luck on your journey.
I remember when I first started I had the boxes on my table for months because I was so scared of messing up and I started with Necrons, their little flimsy arms and pieces made me worry.
I learned that clipping some sprue with the mini then using a nail file to clean up the extra bit helped with the nerves. The clippers can sometimes pull more material then you thought they would, using a file gives you more control of what you are removing.
If someone hasn't mentioned it. Get some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, I use it to glue most of my mini's. You can also convert a bottle into Sprue goo by filling it with a whole bunch of plastic clippings from the sprue frames and leave them to melt for a day, this I've found is usually the best way to fill small gaps and repair breaks. Liquid green stuff kinda sucks and Miliput is better for bigger gaps.
Oh I need to try this, thank you! ☺️
Genau so haben alle angefangen 😂 Das wird immer besser, Hauptsache du hast Spaß dabei!
@@markusschmiesek9294 Dankeschön, wie sagt man so schön ,es ist noch kein Meister vom Himmel gefallen‘ 😌 aber ich bin wirklich irgendwo beruhigt zu lesen, dass ich mich nicht anstelle wie der letzte Horst 😅
Not me. I started with the mostly 1-piece lead minis. 😁
There's been some excellent advice in the comments so far. Like getting yourself a hobby light, cutting the pieces off the sprue with the flat side of your cutters as close to the peice as possible.
I'll add one or two things I've learned from my hobby journey:
-Use only a small amount of glue. If the glue overflows onto the model you can end up with some ugly glue marks on some of your mini's details.
-And as someone who also struggles with being overwhelmed with so much stuff, I like to do only 5 minis at once. I focus on one model at a time, cut out all the pieces, remove all the mold lines and build as much as I can but I leave off any pieces that might make the model harder to paint later (like guns that cover up the chest). Once you've done 5, you can spray prime them and they will be ready for when you feel like painting. This way, you have options for what you can do when you have hobby time, depending on your mood.
Only 5 minis at once is a really good advice I should definitely internalize ☺️ thank you so much!!🫶🏻
To the point of glue... Also you can leave fingerprints in the plastic if using something like Tamaya and use too much...then touch it without realizing. Personal experience 😂 little bit goes a long way
Congratulations Pia! First mini is always the hardest... There is some great advice from other commenters on here, but what I will add is sometimes removing mold lines or filing down bumps from sprue connections is easier before assembling the mini. It really depends how much you want to invest in cleaning up the mini. I am sure all of us watching were cheering for you and we all know the pain of cutting the wrong piece. The parts of the minis do not always make logical sense how they are cast, they are done to be as efficient in the process as possible rather than looking like 'regular' body parts which makes finding them and fitting them a greater challenge. Don't worry about swearing - it comes with the hobby! Even those of with much experience completing minis will still swear... =D. Keep having fun and enjoy your journey! Cheers from Melbourne, Australia
Thank you so much 🫶🏻 at one point I really wanted to stop… Greetings from Berlin 🤗
You did great! My first was also a humbling experience. The sprues are designed to be the cost efficient not user friendly. I am old, have bad eyes, spent years building Gundam models, and it takes me forever to put a mini together. Miss snips can be fixed, or become battle damage. Biggest help for me was getting a magnifying lamp that clamps to my desk, makes finding parts, assembly and especially painting easier when they are magnified 5x.
@@carlcapossere4903 already took another lamp to the desk - so no squeezing of the eyes anymore 😅
Thank you so much for your words, it motivates me a lot and is also good to know, that nearly everyone had the same start 🫶🏻
I started myself doing warhammer 40k minis year ago, started from astra militarum (imperial guard), and at first i was daunted as well, but with time i started to recognise the pattern of how all the parts are near each other and it became much more easier and bearable, keep assembling and you will succeed! Thank you for your videos
@@ДаниилСитнев thank you for your comment, that really motivates me to continue assembling 🤩🫶🏻
I am thinking about starting with Imperial Guard. What would you say are the pros and cons for that army for a complete beginner?
@@JC_WT Not him, but since I also have a company of IG, I'd say it may be the overall cost of the army since at the beginning you have a choice of a tank/vehicle strong army or a infantry heavy one with tons of Imperial soldiers. Both can be a bit expensive and also take a while to paint (it becomes quicker fast, though. I remember that me and my friend painted 20 soldiers in not even two hours once because of all the routine we had gotten out of painting all the miniatures)
The pro's and cons in the game itself are pretty much the same. The variety of units you need for a good army. Firing lines of human meat shields, heavy tanks, transports, air and artillery support etc. It all has to work together. If done right it can be the horror of every enemy army. If the army lacks certain stuff or the enemy destroys important key units they can break the back of your army. So you have to play more tactical as you would with elite armies or heavily offensive cheap armies like Tyranids and orks.
And don't be too afraid to lose guardsman. If killing enemies or holding them back with their bodies/leading bullets away from more important units, they will do their duty one way or the other.
@@NoLiveking87 Thanks so much for the well reasoned reply!
I've actually already gone ahead and ordered the Imperial Guard Combat Patrol kit not long before I read this haha.
I think of all the different armies, the IG kept sticking out to me. And when reading suggestions of good starting armies, the advice I read over and over again was to go with the "rule of cool" and just get what you're really into.
I'm a huge military history nerd, I already do military themed scale modelling, and I'm a seasoned War Thunder player. So the IG just felt like the most natural fit.
What seems to have worked out well with this choice too, is that I was looking for an army that could be tricky to use, and doesn't always work well, but when the stars align it absolutely slaps. And from what I've been reading so far this could be a great army for that.
I also really like how it seems a lot of the IG tactics are based on how real human armies would function.
I don't know, I feel like I made the right choice as regardless of the meta I'm just super excited to build up a huge army and learn about how to use them well!
Thanks again, I really appreciate the info 😸👍
@@JC_WT The guy already asnwered before me, but yes, everything he said is true. Although since GW left my country a while ago due to some all known reasons, i buy all my warhammer minis from "illegal" third party recasters (but since there is now jurisdictional presence of GW they can't do shit), the quality of the recast is the same, since they use the original sprues and make forms from it, and its like 4x times cheaper than original GW products, so in that context the price of the army is not an issue for me.
The combat patrol (i guess the one with 25 troops, two artillery guns and sentinel) is a great bsae for further expanding your IG force, from that you can lean into anything, i myself started from it basically.
And the flavour and fluff of IG is so fun, it was the only army i really feel any connection to really, the simple humans withstanding against the horrors of the galaxy, no ceramite armor, no super human genetics, just lasgun, bayonet and of course armored might!
And as was that by the guy before me, the initial painting might be difficult due to sheer quantity of models, but with time you get painting them really fast without problems.
And i agree the aestethic of IG armour is so cool, yea its just copypaste of ww1 tropes but man do those leman russes tanks look juicy
And remember brother, planet broke before guard did!
A tip from me:
If you are new (or took a break from the hobby for some time), start with easier miniatures, preferably some base troops. That way you'll have more experience when you work on your hero characters. Most things can be relatively easy to fix, but if you "ruin" anything accidentally, it's better to have a "ruined" one regular dude in a squad, then your lieutenant or sergeant. Same with painting, practice on regular dudes before moving to more detailed and complicated ones.
This is such an important tip, but I never have the discipline to do it. I always reach straight for the most exciting mini! Wish I didn't...
Really good point, thank you!! 😊 I will keep that in mind when I continue 🫶🏻☺️
I played 40k in high school and stop 4-5 years later but I'm back when I heard about the 10th edition and I'm so glad to see so much new peoples to the hobby! I'm still not good at the game but man I love the univers, the setting
We also have the saying 'looking for a needle in a haystack' here in the UK.
Don't worry if you score a bit by accident or lose a foot or something ...... just call it 'battle damage'! 😉😄
@@ralphhathaway-coley5460 battle damage sounds so great! ☺️ thank you for your kind words 🫶🏻
Congrats on your first built mini! I’m usually watching a show or movie while I build minis so it takes me forever to build. Just enjoy the process 😊
Thank you! :) That's actually a really good idea. I thought about the lore podcasts or something similar! 🙃
One really good upgrade would be a single edge nipper (or flush cutter) for close finishing cuts to the model. I would still use the normal clippers (upgrade to Tamiya for eg.) to clip off the sprue as that's what they're best for though. Have a look at some RUclips videos on the difference between single and double edge nippers!
double edge is better, in nearly any situation of cutting. even when cutting cables, nails, leather, surgery scissors. even sheet metal cutters are double bladed. single edge is best when you cut large pieces of metal plates and thick metal, powered by hydralics.
with one blade; it has to go twice as far into the material, meaning the bevels of it will push the plastic, furter than normal, causing more stress. Were cutting plastic, so theres no world where the thickness of the blade is important in terms of withstanding force. they dont have to be thick.
Pluss youre adding an extra unecessary step to the process and an extra tool. regular thin precision side cutters will be best and cheaper
I can’t wait to see you grow and hone your hobby craft!
Thank you! I really appreciate that! 😊
great to see the hype from new hobbyists. You might find it helpful to get a bright desk lamp. Assembly can be made more difficult in dim light.
keep at it! if you got the Leviathan box then you have plenty more assembly still to go. Remember, its fine to tackle the assembly process in portions. Pace yourself to assure the preservation of your sanity! The painting process is much more enjoyable.
Thank you! 😊 I planned out my light setup already and can't wait to start painting.
Quick tip, try to pre-fit the pieces before you apply glue
Oh I am gonna do - actually I did it by mistake with my first mini I just realized 🙈😅
@@Warpia40k 😂 keep at it, the longest part imo is the painting
i always love watching people do their first figure/mini. Im on my 5th one and its so addicting
It is 😅 a struggle but fun!
Trial and error that’s all it is I’ve struggled in the past when I first started
@@JJJTHEGAME happy to read that this is ,normal‘ that really motivates me a lot 🫶🏻
@@Warpia40k no problem
I started building warhammer minis fairly recently too! I have a small army of thousand sons at the moment and i just started painting some 3rd generation tyranid termagants. I have to say that despite looking more complicated tyranids are fairly easy to assemble compared to space marines but that might be my preference. Also one small tip i can give is if you are having difficulty cutting the pieces from the sprews with the hobby pliers, you can use some toe nail clippers, instead ( the ones that look similar to hobby pliers) as they have a curved edge and make it easier to get the edge right next to the piece without damaging it . Also i found that using an epoxy based clay or eventhe kind of modeling clay that comes in jars do a really good job at filling gaps made from those types of happy accidents , my best advice i can give is to keep going! Because practice makes perfect!
My boyfriend also started a Thousand Sons army. 😊 They look really complicated to paint. There are so many details...
@@Warpia40k Yes , they have a lot of detail to them but I found an easy way to paint them , you can share it with your BF if want.
Just prime them with gold paint first . THEN add in the other colours. If you accidentally leave a smudge or a spot somewhere that it isn't supposed to be that colour , take a clean brush, dunk it in water. And gently wipe the paint off . Since gold is a reflective metallic colour its much easier to see while painting over it when compared to blue . Hope this helps!
Tamiya plastic glue and a wet pallet are two items i recommend you get. Tamiya is very easy to apply, and works well for repairs as well.
My recommended list of extra tools:
- Magnification: I use magnifying glasses with swappable lenses. Eyesight is horrible, so this helps while building and painting. Even with this, some miniatures are REALLY hard to determine if you're cutting in the right place. May Sigmar have mercy on you if you buy AoS Nighthaunt.
- Good lighting: Lights on the glasses, two standing lamps with extra spotlights and a magnifier lamp with a ring of LEDs just to be safe.
- Cutting/painting mat: A generic hobby cutting mat should do, but something like the Green Stuff World silicone mat is even better. It has edges to keep stuff from rolling off, so I can leave drill bits etc. on it safely. I rarely have model parts falling off the table now.
- The aforementioned drill bits and a hand drill to drill open gun barrels. Because why not?
- Vallejo plastic putty, Milliput or Green Stuff for those models where you somehow have huge gaps where they shouldn't be.
Honourable mentions:
- That assembly thing from GW with flexible arms and clips can work while assembling SOME large models. I mostly collect small stuff, so it hasn't been that useful, but it's nice when you've got something appropriate.
- 3D printer: I constantly lose miniature bases to the warp. Mine is basically a dice holder & 25/32mm base factory. I may print manufactorum walls for it if this trend continues.
Impossible, but nice to have:
- Steady fingers which don't twitch so parts go flying across the room, never to be seen again before they feed the vacuum cleaner. Krak grenades - I hardly knew ye.
Wow thank you so much for that amazing and detailed recommendations 🤩 I made a screenshot to have it saved!
Fun fact: I am a Body Piercer and Tattoo Artist and my hands are normally very steady. But here - no way 🙈😂
@@Warpia40k Drawing/tracing has more support, so no wonder. Holding your hands up and trying to be precise? Not gonna work!
When clipping off a tiny part, you can make it easier for yourself by clipping off part of the surrounding sprue itself. Then, if you want to make sure it doesn't fly off, you can tape down the small piece to keep (preferably on a mat you don't mind scuffing a bit), and clip off the loose sprue part. The sprue fraction might fly off, but the piece you taped down is safe and secure. :) Blue-tack also works. A variant of this tip is to have a large-ish translucent plastic bag and put your hands inside it and clip inside, so if the part flies off, it stays in the bag. That's a bit more finicky, but works if you don't have a good working surface.
Sounds a kithara but I will def try it out - thank you! ☺️
Keep the sprues, when you come to glueing and painting; you can use them to test on so you understand how those processes work without wrecking the expensive minis
For a painting stand I use one of those small pots that had a ginger / turmeric shot in it and put some blutak on the lid. Wine corks also work, but I find my hands cramp up a bit with them.
When i'm assembling I have a USB LED light and a pair of wearable magnifying glasses.
Plastic Glue fixes most anything, again look at Tamiya or Revell.
When you get to painting, a rattle can spray makes life easier; but you need the right temperature (about 20C) for it to work and it's not recommended to breathe it in; so go to a spare room or garage, open a window, put a mask on and make a makeshift spray booth out of a cardboard box. You can pretend you are outdoors if it helps. The GW ones are good but expensive.
There's a parallel hobby in Japan called "Gunpla" - Tamiya make all sorts of hobby tools for this that are usually cheaper than the Games Workshop ones and much better quality, the snippers and files especially.
Do a quick search on how to make a "wet palette" for actual painting; you can make one for a couple of Euros with a tupperware box (or plastic food delivery container), a dish sponge and some greaseproof paper (for baking).
Buy some stainless steel ballbearings from amazon for 5 or 6 euros for 100 and drop a couple in each paint pot you buy as they will help shake the paint up. They are good for nail varnish too. (make sure stainless steel!)
Someone mentioned egg cups earlier, and that was a good tip.
This is the most wholesome hobby video I've seen this year, i got back into the hobby a couple of years ago after being away from it for over a decade and the new sprues are crazy with the pieces and details now, it gets easier to find pieces on them with time though and personally I've found with minis i build regularly, i can find most of the pieces without having to look, welcome to the hobby and have fun!
I hope I will get at this point also 😅 thank you so much 😊
Cant wait for the next one! painting 🥲
@@jamescharles2376 oh well… me too 🙈☺️
If you break them they can be glued back together. I use gel superglue so its not runny... there are liquid hole filler epoxies you can use to fill in gaps. I use a small set of files and xacto knives to shave uneven bits and sprue from the models. The models you make now will look very different from the ones you make a month from now. Youre doing fine.
@@bobh9492 thank you so much for this input and your motivating words! I really appreciate that 🫶🏻
Using superglue on plastic is silly. Plastic glue welds the plastic together, superglue doesn't last forever, it comes apart over time.
i'm very new to this side of the hobby, mostly got into 40k through HH book series, what I have come to realize is it's okay to fuck up. Our first couple boxes (although expensive) they are trial and error. Building isn't what gets me, I love it because it's kinesthetic for me. So I learn that easily. My issue is the fucking painting. My GOD! Some of you 40k old heads are lying out yo asses when it comes to "painting not being a big deal". lol! xD But the one thing I've learned, you can always cut more off and paint more on. But you can't undo it. So under cut rather than over cut and Thinly paint the models; you can always add more.
Haha. I used to hate painting. But over the past few years something clicked in me and it's now the bit I like most. I think it's because I started actually investing into the right brushes and good paints. Makes a heck of a difference.
I am looking forward to the painting job - its a nervous excitement 😅
You can do it! One thing that helps is to not clip so close to the pieces that you want. Clip a bit of the sprue with it, then clean it up without the tension on it that the frame puts on it.
Thank you for this advice, I am gonna internalize it!! ☺️
Hey, great work! One tip - you will find cutting, assembling and eventually painting much easier if you firmly plant both elbows on the tabletop to give yourself a rigid foundation. It eliminates your shake and maximises control. Even better if you can rest the heels of your hands against each other, as though they were tied together - though this part of it is more feasible when painting than assembling. This is the position of power and it really is a magic bullet for your manual dexterity. I can't imagine doing any of this with my elbows against my stomach or worse, in thin air
When making squads up, I always start with whichever model uses part number one, this often might be the 2nd or 3rd model in the build guide, once that first model is built, then move on to whichever uses the next lowest remaining number, I often find if you do that you then make less mistakes with cutting off the wrong part then you will if you try and build the models in the order GW put them in in the build guide booklet, it does admittedly mean you may be flicking through the build guide a lot, but it does save yourself from making mistakes during the builds.
Also with push fit miniatures, sometimes it's worth either clipping or sanding off part of the pegs, as once you add glue to the peg hole, the glue in the bottom of the peg hole keeps part of the peg out causing your model to have gaps, by trimming the pegs down, you leave a little space so excess glue doesn't then cause the part to stay separated.
Thank you for this very helpful tips ☺️
I've been building the Hive Secundus box, and jeeze-o-pete. Some of the stuff almost snaps together, some of them I can't tell which way they go, but if I don't put it in right the next piece won't fit right.
The flingin' flangin' Orrus suits have 25-30 separate parts EACH. Just the legs are 5 parts for each one.
I find it useful to batch assemble minis too. Don't clip out all the parts of a single one, just the first 2 or 3 parts. Glue them together, then go to the next model and clip out 2 or 3 for that one too. Repeat until you have 4 or 5 started. Then go back to the first one. The first couple of parts you did should be firmly stuck together so clip out and glue the next part. Move to the second guy, do the next part for that one, etc.
That's a good recommendation. I need to check if that works out with my workflow! It's noted! 😊
My introduction to the hobby, 35 years ago, was HeroQuest. By coincidence, there were 35 minis in the box, plus some cardboard and plastic furniture. Only 1 of the minis was multi-piece (the Gargoyle had a seperate body, head and wings, and they were push-fit).
The single piece monsters could all simply be twisted off the sprue, because the joins were at the base.
Almost like they were in fact designing the kit for beginners.
I promise it gets easier!!!!! I made the mistake of doing a giant model for my first one and it was the most difficult thing to do T____T.
Small things, army painter has a set of files which help for different angles after removing from the sprew!
Plastic gloves are going to be your best friend when using glue, if you accidentally use too much you can use the gloves to wipe away bubbles etc after applying.
Don't worry too hard about building, it'll eventually be like putting legos together!
Thank you for motivating me so much 🫶🏻 the plastic gloves are a really good tip! ☺️☺️☺️
It's really nice to see new folks even as adults getting into the hobby, I've been doing it for many years and I've never stopped I love the calmness it brings you. Keep it up don't get discouraged that's part of starting anything new. You will do great. Welcome aboard soldier! 🫡
Thank you! ☺️ I guess you’re never to late! I can only recommend, also when you’re older you have more money 😇
@@Warpia40k absolutely! Look forward to your journey
Congratulations on building your first miniature. Don't worry it gets easier as you get used to reading the instructions. As has been said already you don't need to cut right next to the figure to get it off the sprue, just cut a bit away then cut closer when you have the piece loose it makes it a lot easier.
@@alexnicole7431 thank you so much for the congrats ☺️🫶🏻 also for your input, it will help a lot in the future ☺️
my best tip: get a good lamp, preferably one with white light on a swivel that you can move around. it makes it so much easier to see what you are doing and once you do you won't want to work without it. Removing mold lines in poor lighting is a nightmare. Also helps when painting small items.
Thank you for the light advice! 😊 Already got a lamp and will get a second one too 😇
You may want to get a straight razor I personally find it easier to cut the spurs . Just remember you can always use either putty or more super glue to fix it. Or even just take a different part to fix it usually I use a super glue gel. The gel stays where you put it. So it doesn’t go on your hand or run off to another part. Never be discouraged you can fix anything. Mini war games has some tutorials on how to build minis along with a host of others. You can always just google how to put it together.
thank you gor the good advice 😊
It will get easier. I remember somehow cutting a space marines head in half when I just started. 😂 so far I never made the same mistake again. 🤙 have fun painting 👍
@@oldaloeink2081 but this would have looked so cool - a space marine still on the battle ground with a half shot head 🤯 did you keep it?
@@Warpia40kyes, I still have it. Could have glued it back on there but what did I know 😅
Personally I like to sub assemble, i glue the legs,greaves and torso together and glue that on a (spare) base, i glue the pauldrons to the arms and gluing the weapon to one of the hands and keep the backpack and head seperate, i then use a vise drill, a 0.85mm drill bit and paperclips and wine corks. I then drill somewhere that wont be visible when its assembled and insert the paperclip, secured with a little superglue (you can twist it off when youre done and finally apply a little masking fluid where the bits are going to be glued together that i peel off when painting (so the plastic glue has clean plastic to work on.)Having things on seperate armatures allows me to get in at all angles and fully paint the parts, without having to try and work my way around a assembled model trying to reach difficult parts to paint, which can lead to accidental brush strokes somewhere you dont want them. I also cut each piece , scrape off the mold lines and then assemble, even with my extra steps such as drilling, i can get a single model done in under 5 minutes or so.
This applies more to the full sets than push fit minis. Also don't stress about how long it takes to assemble a mini, take your time, do it right and do it well, slow is smooth, smooth is good.
Long time warhammer fan here. 20+ years. Your journey is so fun to watch. Newer Warhammer models are very fiddly and tough to locate prices because frames are made to fit economically as many bits as possible, but leads to much disorganisation of parts.
Keep going and look forward to your next video.
Thank you! No worries, no surrender here 😅
Welcome to the hobby! It's so nice to see new people get into it! It gives me inspiration to finish my own models (three different armies and counting!).
I can't wait to see you continue your journey!
Thank you very much ☺️ I am Wally looking forward to finish my set, too 😍 than I can start with battles 🤩
Liking the content. I started with this myself, 2 months ago. Its a lil difficult at the start, but it gets better. Now i enjoy the assembly more than painting em. Keep the vids coming😁
If you want to fix em, milliput standard is the best. You can use it as a clay, or mix it with water to a slurry, and apply it to where you want to. Its great for for kitbashing/making parts. Once its hardened you can sand it.
Id advice sanding sponges. Cause it follows the shape of the minis
You can use milliput to fix leaks in your sink too😂 or sculpting figurines
one thing that can help with the easy to build models is to use your hobby knife and slightly taper the pins on the pieces. Helps them slide together easier so you don't have to push so hard.
@@402_Warhammer ohhhh wow that’s a great tip, thank you!! I was so afraid to destroy the whole mini while I pushed it so hard 😅
@@Warpia40kAnother tip is to use plastic glue in the socket - it melts the plastic, making the hole wider, and so easier to fit. Also some pegs are too long, so snipping off a millimetre or two ensures a close fit. Have fun!
Tamiya extra this cement makes it so this is un-needed.
When it comes to clipping fiddly parts that look fragile you're often safer clipping the sprue close to the piece and tackling it properly when it's removed. So that you can get easier access without risk of snapping the part you need.
@@garethholman1050 thank you so much for the tip, I will try this out tomorrow ☺️🫶🏻
Just started assembling my first minis as well. Got the dark angel deathwing knights! Its so much fun!
Use Tamiya Extra Thin. Makes it much easier. You hold two joins together and then drip the glue on top. It's so thin it seeps into the seam while the excess evaporates, leaving a perfect connection.
A few recommendations-
Read through all of that beginner directions book before you just jump right in. Make sure you have all of the parts for the squad ONLY. Put all the other sprues back in the box until you are ready for that squad.
Snap off or cut that large sprue into it's 3d's, and just worry about one squad/ brood at a time.
Use a teacup or an egg carton bottom that the eggs sit in to keep the different parts for each figure close, before you trim off the flash (plastic left over after the part was cut off of the sprue.)
Just Breath. The problem is nothing you did. GW has now made it a point to over engineer the figures, and the designers, and the guys who put the illustrated directions together never talk to each other. Look at the picture, and some of the parts, you just might have to go by their pictures.
Just work with 5 or 10 in a squad at a time. GW loves baffling players with bullshit, or dazzling them with diamonds in what they put in those starter boxes.
The bright light at the end of the tunnel- After they are all put together, you can use a rattle-can to spray-paint their main color, and you only have to put in the details.
Looking good, keep going!
@@manofaction1807 so many great tips that I wish I would have knew before 😪 thank you so much for them, I am gonna empty the egg carton right away ☺️ also thanks for your motivating words 🫶🏻
@@Warpia40k It's getting past that first 5 that gets you over the hump. After that, you are collecting per unit, and tailoring the force for yourself.
1 command, 3 troops, a heavy and a fast to get to the table, after your first few games, you'll switch stuff out.
Your priority, FIRST- Get Them into battle. Play grey, until you get your feet wet and some blood in your teeth.
Dont cut close to the model, until you feel more comfortable you can cut like half way up the sprue. Then use a craft knife and files to trim it down with more control.
Then like everyone else said, mold lines, organise pieces etc.
@@cadeptt thank you, I will definitely keep more distance to the model ☺️
I hate putting the models together. Its the worse part. Love painting and playing. You got this!
Thank you! :) I enjoy it so far, nevertheless. Let's see how that develops. 😅😊
A white hobby/desk light will help you loads.
Cut with the flat side towards your minins.
Green/stuff or liquid green stuff can be used to fill gaps if you get any.
Scrap the mold lines before priming and painting.
Yes, plenty of parts you can put on models but sometime better to start with less and add more as you go.
Wait till you start diving into sub assembly!
Most importantly, take your time and have fun.
Thank you so much for your tips and tricks ☺️🫶🏻
I really appreciate them and can’t wait to continue now 🙂
Wholesome hobby content unlocked! Great effort Pia, keep persevering... and keep enjoying!
Thank you so much!! ☺️
You will 100% get faster. A tip is to cut and organize the parts in piles then assemble the all when the sprue is empty
Perfect input, thank you!
A good way to avoid cutting too much when you remove parts from the sprue is to just leave a little bit if the sprue on the part. Then use a knife to remove the excess.
Don't stress so much! It's okay. When it's time to paint, just remember: youre only using acrylics. No matter how many mistakes you make, an hour in some isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush will fix your mistakes.
You're doing great.
The rite of passage that is finding parts on a sprue! I'm still waiting for the day GW can plan out a sprue so that all necessary parts are near each other!
Great video, glad to see you're having fun with it. Welcome to the hobby!
Hah, that will happen the same day "push to fit" stops being a lie :P
Oh, so true! 😂
@@unspeakableoaf 🤣 Absolutely agree 👍🏻 Just remove the little posts and glue it as normal, much easier!
There are some multi model sprues that have them near each other like the the Kroot hounds, but that is a small sprue.
@@konstantinoskalantzis5054 To be fair, that's true. A lot of the newer kits are organised a lot better. I remember the Kill Team kits usually having the required components next to each other. I remember the old kits, you'd have 3 parts, on 3 different sprues to finish one section of the assembly instructions 😂
Hi Pia 😊 nothing for shakeing hands, as my wife 😉 but yes good to have direct, bright light on your working place, good clippers could be for nails but better are dedicated for models (they are sharper and angle is better), white sheet is always good for your work, and try to focus on small squads like 3-5 minis. Then you know what to cut off and work will go slightly better. Just know your book and which models are in your squads. Army -> units -> models (which have some parts 😜🎉) when you think about a lot of parts try, like in the comments, to have case (from eggs is nice tip i use multicompartments boxes). Then assembling will go smoothier (just like with Marvel 😅). Who told it will be easy? But with another model you do, it will. Dont rush yourself and cya around 😊
Thank you! I try to start out simple and get into more advanced models later! :)
@@Warpia40k maybe it sounds stupid but from my perspective there are no simple or advanced models in the army, its just how much effort you put in them. Anyone has more or less small diteils on it but there just time consuming not advanced.
Nothing goes right when it’s someone’s first time, that what i like about miniature painting it teaches you to look for ways to improve and connect with people. Remember anything you do for the first time will not be good and that’s okay because it’s first time doing it, that is what pushes us to improve. ONLY IN DEATH DOES DUTY END BROTHER.
With the cut on the foot don’t stress! You can put some grass on the base and no one will see it ❤. I taught myself how to make warhammer minis and paint them for my husband. He used to play when he was younger but after his accident he didn’t have the dexterity to paint them anymore so I made an army for him and now our collection grows one mini at a time 😊. But definitely invest in an overhead lamp. Possibly with a magnifying glass in it so you can see really close on your mini when it comes to painting. Also you will need more than one brush. Don’t use the same brush for a texture paint as you do for normal painting as texture paint ruins brushes. Same with metallic paints, it’s always best to have a brush and seperate pot of cleaning water for your metallic paints. A wet palette is not a must (you can also make your own at home) but they can help keeping your paints wet for longer. It helped me in the beginning because I was not very fast at painting at the start. Although primer does not come in the starter kit you definitely need a spray can of primer so the paint sticks better to the minis❤❤ can’t wait to watch you fall in love with the “plastic crack” that we have all fallen in love with!!
Awww thank you so much for your heartwarming and motivating comment and the great advices 😍 so nice that you build a warhammer team with your husband! He can be very happy to have you ❤️
Thoughts of a Random Viewer;
- you could "sell saltwater to a sailor" your presentation style is fine
- always save your first mini
- you can usually clip the parts off and combine them one at a time in numerical order. the instructions seem to follow a different order for some reason. possibly because it's easier to illustrate. i follow the numbers out of stubbornness.
- sergeants and such will usually have alternate parts so they can be a normal grunt
- save the spare arms/heads to test paints - you can wedge a toothpick into them and spray paint them with test schemes or see how paints react
- don't be afraid to clip the model "badly" with a lot of extra material, then, do another snip to get the big chunk of sprue off
- you can use egg cartons to hold all the parts if you want to cut them all out at once
- if you're going to use glue (yes it's better) then it makes sense to shorten the pegs with your clippers and widen the holes by spinning that mould line remover in the holes. the pegs are usually have an "elephant foot" anyway.
- the plastic glue will melt the minis (it's acetone+acetate so will melt anything made with this styrene) so you can usually thinly paint it over the cracks when you have the model posed
You can also use the plastic 'glue' to melt some sprue parts into "sprue goo" and use that as putty to fill gaps - or even model things.
to avoid the frustration of looking for missing heads I usually empty out the box and clip over it or the lid if it came with one.
Clip inside to box - its so easy, I feel so stupid right now 😅 thank you!! 😊
Good job 👍 some suggestions; use a Sharpie and brush the side of it over the sprue numbers to make them easier to find. When clipping, hook your arm around the sprue and clip them from the back so your clipper blades are facing you, it makes it easier to see where you are cutting. I'd also use super glue rather than plastic glue when first starting out, it's less destructive and can be broken easily if it's in the wrong position. You'll get quicker with practice, but it's good when starting to have a friend do it with you to help figure things out together or learn from their experience 👍 but it's fun though, right?
@@tel2671 that with the sharpies is a amazing tip, thank you so much!! And I think super glue is a little cheaper - right?
Practice, practice, practice it is ☺️ but yeah, it’s a lot of fun 🫶🏻😍
There are like two or three ways to deal damage on a mini. 1. You roll with it, injured leg? That's what they got in a battle. When painting darken that area or looks like a bullet or explosion happend there. 2. Get hobby sculpted things like greenstuff/graystuff. With one of these, you can cover the damaged area, let it dry, and if you're not satisfied, you can sand it. With greensuff/graystuff you can even sculpt things or make molds in it when you feel more confident about the mini hobby. 3. Try to glue the part back and hope for the best. Hope this helps a bit, keep up the fun journey and you'll be fine (Edit, forgot the 3rd option)
I think for the first one i roll with it - battledamage actually sounds cool for me now ☺️
thank you so much for your tipps!
@@Warpia40k glad i could be of help^^ it is easy to want to make a mini 100% even when assembling it, but stuff happens and parts snaps or to deep hole after the use with a exactor knife or even holes in the mini before you even have started. there is alot that can happen and ceep a cool head and if you feel overwhelmed just put it aside for a bit and do another mini. :)
Don't apologise for swearing...most of us here are adults and I can assure you a large portion of us have swore when dropping some tiny grey plastic piece on the floor while building 😂 This is fun to watch, I still love the hobby years and years later but there is something magical watching someone start to fall in love with 40K!. Also, don't tell yourself you will only collect one army, that is something that will go out the window fast!
Sometimes you break small pieces, I have build minis for many years and still do (but not so often now). But when you have many minis you always have some spare parts that you haven't used that you can replace them with. What you can do is cut a little further away from the part when you cut it off the sprue and do another cut later. Also it is often a trick to use the flat side (backside) of your clipper toward the part you are cutting off.
I think you did well for being your first miniature, things will go better after a while.
Looking for pieces on the sprues can be hard even when you have made lots of miniatures. But when building big boxes like you do, there can be many parts with the same number or alternate ways to build the same model ans that makes it a little harder than if you just buy a single model to build.
You can always hide the damaged foot with a rock or a body part of a Tyranid (if you have a spare part like a head or something) when decorating the base.
Thank you so much for this advices ☺️ the tip with the Tyranid body part is great and very creative 😯
Congrats on the first, I’ve found myself drawn into warhammer 40000 videos recently and I have also been tempted to start. I will keep watching your journey into the hobby for inspiration 👍
I also recently started and am currently building my first 1k point Imperial Fists space marine army. It's interesting to see how each one you paint improves model by model.
I'm watching movies about the painting process. Can't wait to start 😊
Yesterday i assembled my new sister hospitaller. It took over two hours but i was painting some other sororitas while the glue dried so i could have been faster.
Absolutely loved both your vids! Its wonderful seeing someone start out on an amazing hobby journey; its only gets easier and easier i promise! 😂
Assembling has always been my least favourite part - i find it easier for infantry to clip each models parts out and put them in their own pile, then go through and assemble each one in turn :) that said, whatever method you find that works for you is the right method!
What models did your partner get? Would be lovely down the road to see you/you both playing your first game(s)!
Subbed! All the best :)
Thank you so much for your kind words and the subscription 🫶🏻
My partner got the Combat Patrol Thousand Sons ☺️
Totally feel this. Putting together Navis Breachers at the moment.
I am happy that I am not alone with that struggling 😅
I agree with a lot of the comments above. I use a A3 piece of white paper when building to make it easier to see the bits if they fly off. Flat edge on the clippers, and dry/push fit everything. Also bits box is a must if you get into it properly
Thank you for all the tips ☺️
Highly recommend Tamiya snips, from the Japanese model company. They make all kinds of excellent quality tools, but their snips are nice and smooth and sharp and cut cleanly. I have yet to damage something using Tamiya snips. They also make a popular glue for plastic models, Tamiya Ultra Thin Plastic Cement. Take care if you do use plastic cement, as it is toxic and you need to be in a ventilated area or wear a mask. Since you asked for tips.
Glue and paint fix most things, as well. Another tip would be to cut off the pegs for the 'no glue' models and then glue them together anyway, with plastic cement. This is because if you assemble them with the pegs, they are really difficult and some of the push-fit models have these awful cracks in them... I learned this the hard way, so that's why people say to use glue anyway.
As for general... assembly... it's the roughest part for me, still. Once you have seen a model a few times it becomes easier, you start to know what you need - but matching the numbers to the pieces is still the best way, you will become more practiced but still sometimes just not be able to find a part for a few minutes... XD
Thank you so much for this great advices (especially for wearing a mask - i would thought naaahh this little bit gonna be okay 😅)
☺️
Welcome to the Hobby! We wish you a very good time! And congrats for such fast Channel Growth!
Worst Warhammer fail? Painting a miniature for hours and just dont liking the result
@@MannerundihrSpielzeug thank you so much, I am still overwhelmed but also very happy for that great and kind community 🤩
Oh no - but I hope that happens to everyone at some point 🥲
@@Warpia40k Community is awesome, even the competitive Community which often suffers from prejudgment. (At least here in Germany)
@@MannerundihrSpielzeug I just subscribed your channel - is it even allowed since it’s ,Men and their Toys‘ not ,Women/girls and their Toys‘ 😉😅
@@Warpia40k haha, thank you 😄
This was a lot of fun to watch, congrats on the success!
You can use modelling putty, greenstuff, or thick super glue to fill in spots where you over-cut. The worst part about assembling minis nowadays is hunting for all of the pieces on those overly complicated sprues. Sometimes it's a big headache. Awesome seeing someone starting their hobby from the beginning, I hope you have fun!
@@stephenwitham hunting is the right word, it really feels like it 😅 thank you 😊