Applying Tung Oil to an M1 Garand | CMP | Expert
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2022
- This was a first for me. Lathered on some tung oil and gave it a few buffs. I am very satisfied with how it turned out!
Products used:
Hope's 100% Pure Tung Oil
0000 Steel Wool
Lint free Rags
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Woodworker here. First issue, strip the metal from the walnut. You will need the finish to penetrate equally throughout for equal water protection. Expansion/contraction is a concern in some cases, not so much here as the cross grain is minimal and walnut is very stable by nature. I use tung oil on select projects, but most of the woodworkers I run with acknowledge that its properties have been way overhyped. The #1 problem that I see on YT is applying multiple coats of Tung oil with minimal amounts of time between coats. Pure tung oil can take up to seven days to completely dry between coats even if ambient air temp is around 65-70 F. 15-18 Celsius . Moral of the story: be patient when you use tung oil.
yes, you are correct. best way would have been to take it apart, separate wood from everything else...
But if the bottle instruction says how many hours, should we follow?
@NgJackal1990 There are a lot of variables like temperature, humidity and maybe even elevation. Tung oil must cure fully before applying subsequent coats or you will have uncured layers in between. The best way that I've found to tell if it is ready is by rubbing with a dry cloth. If it hangs up, it's not cured. You can also thin it to speed the curing process.
@@embracethesuck1041how many coats should you apply?
@@thingsstuff6564More than one, but I don't think there's a set answer. I would say until it stops accepting it.
Very nice! 😆👍
I built a roll-up bath cover using softwood from Lowe’s. Treated every individual plank with Tung oil before putting them into a roll-form.
I used hand-rub, and kept adding oil until no more oil would soak into the grain. Let sit 1 hour, and wiped away the excess that sweats out of the wood.
After that, 24 hours to let it cure & cross link.
I didn’t bother with a later surface coat, because I wanted to keep a “wood touch” to the hand, not a “wet varnished” feel.
The key to Tung oil is: the very first “coat” isn’t really a coat. It is suppose to provide enough oil to soak as far into the wood as the oil would go.
Once the oil has filled all the voids in the grain, the oil will then cross-link similar to epoxy.
I’ve used Tru Oil on two CMP stocks.I applied extremely sparingly with my bare hand rubbing it in so that immediately goes in. I did this for over a week every day. You’re done when it stops immediately soaking in.
That is beautiful!
I agree with woodworker in separating the wood from metal to fully treat all the wood areas. But good job nonetheless! She sure looks good!😊
I just received my Expert 2 days ago. I am ordering Tung Oil right now after seeing this. I sent away for rifle on the 18th and received it 11 days later. Thanks for the video.
Excited for you, everything is coming together quickly on your end! Cheers!
I bought a big red birch stock and I sanded and tung oiled it and it is beautiful, it's got dark spots on it. It is for my m1a.
This is just good knowledge. ❤
Them rags can spontaneously combust btw.
Looks great, lay a moistened rag over the front ding in the stock, then take a clothes iron and you can iron out that ding(the moist heat will make the wood fibers rise and 'pull out' the ding, without damaging the wood), then tung oil over.
Neat trick. I've never heard of that before. Thanks for sharing, cheers!
My CMP Garand new stock arrived with a ding :(. I will try your method and report back. Thanks.
I am in the process of getting a M1 thru CMP. I find the M1 a true piece of art. Enjoyed your clip😊
How long did it take to get the gun start to finish ?
I just put on the first Coat of Tung Oil, OMG !
This is going to look great !
Awesome! I’m sure it’ll come out better than expected. Cheers brother.
Looks nice. I’m sure you know but be sure to lay your tung/linseed oil rags flat until they harden. The drying oils produce heat when they polymerize and can start a fire if they’re wadded up.
Good to know! I ended up disposing of them afterwards.
Usually set mine outside to dry, to be safe. I remember the steel cans with covers in shop class for oily rags, used to contain or head off possible spontaneous combustion.
Nice specimen. What grade? It appears to be a new stock. Did you go with 308 or leave it in 30.06? Agree with over hype on Tung Oil. I would have stripped it down and completely coated, in about a month considered how many more coatings to go. Great vid.Glad it turned out well, It looks great.
I bought the Special Rack grade. Hand picked it at Camp Perry. Used three layers of lineseed oil and gunny’s paste on her. Looks beautiful.
..you shoot it? I mean, is it your shooter or a wall hanger? How's the barrel?
Mean no disrespect. Just curious!
@@warplanner8852 great shooter (has a new barrel and stock) and it is also a piece that hangs on my wall
I bought an expert model last year. But, I completely disassembled mine so that I wouldn't get Tung oil on the metal and could get it everywhere on the wood. I first gave it a light sanding and applied the first coat by wet sanding it in with 400 grit fabric backed sandpaper. I let it dry 24 hours and then applied a seven more coats allowing 24 hours between each coat. Between each coat I wiped it down to remove any oil that had not dried. After the 7th coat I wiped it down the next day and then let it dry for 2 weeks so that it was completely dry. I then applied a good coat of Renaissance Wax to everything including the metal. This is one of the best waxes there is. It was created by people doing restoration and protection of museum pieces and it's not expensive and goes a long way.
How are you going to get that nice oil patina on your metal parts if you take them off to oil the stock? I promise you the troops issued M1's and 14's slopped linseed and tung oil on the metal.
Oiling without disassembly invites oil to accumulate and soften wood in places not wiped away .. it will get punky and you’ll regret it
Thank you for the useful advice. I did end up wiping away the oil after every application but I honestly never done this before, I was worried about applying oil around/near components which heat up, like under the barrel.
@@thebennettbulletin3462 The stocks were dropped into 100 gallon vats of pure linseed oil during production years. Then hung to dry. You're good on treating the innards.
@@jwpepper2835 Thanks for the information, I had no idea! That's a really neat process and puts my nerves at easy. I was worried I would be doing more harm than good.
NONSENSE.
@@jwpepper2835 Springfield switched to tung oil in 1943. And they used cold pressed linseed oil, not boiled linseed oil as we know it today
Tung oil was only used on very early models boiled linseed oil was used for remaining guns.
You gut lucky with that great wood grain from the cmp. It really pops with the TO. I didn’t know what they finished their sticks in so I fully stripped and sanded mine down and used pure raw linseed oil which is what they originally used. That stuff takes an extremely long time to dry though and I’d probably use TO if I ever did it again. They say the RLO is supposed to oxidize with time, sunlight, air exposure etc. and that is what eventually gives that reddish hue of old guns. We’ll see. Yours looked pretty red in one pic but then in the other lighting didn’t so much. I feel like mine changes a lot in different lighting too
Use boiled Linseed oil, it dries faster.
@@russellday5003 ya but it’s not exactly period correct. If I did another I might use it for convenience
Nice job
the slow mo tongue oil money shot did it for me ….
I was a wolfhound too Hawija 06-07 where did you get the wall flag?
Ideally you should completely dismantle the stock into its 3 individual piece and apply tung oil to all inside surfaces as well. You should also remove all metal, the baseplate, and forestock clips and barrel guide.
Why are you rubbing it with steel wool between coats? Just curious.
Does this make it permanent shiny like linseed oil.....or does it just keep the wood protected. I want to keep my stock nice but I don't want it to be glossy.
my 55 was dark as the finished one in your vid. was thinking of doing this but dont want it to dark.
Looks Great !! Was that 3 or 4 coats ? And steel wool just after the first two, correct ?
This was my first time applying oil to any stock, but I think after the first coat the stock already started to look amazing. However, I applied a generous three coats, so I wouldn’t have to mess with it for another year. I also used the steel wool after every coat but on the third I applied it gently. Enjoy brother.
I've refurbished and refinished over half a dozen ceremonial M1s for my VFW post. I did use old nylon stockings (rubbing until they began to get warm) after letting each coat dry over night, then used 0000 steel wool, and did it all over again twice more. Before I could get to the last six rifles, the Army replaced them all with M-14s. Damn, a lot of work and money down the drain. I have five or six new op rod springs sitting on bench. ;-)
Oh, one other question
Did you do this in the house ?
Or garage ?
Was the smell strong?
I ended up doing this in my office. My office vents well when the windows are open but if I were to do it again I would recommend doing it outside or in a garage. The smell wasn't too strong but if my windows were shut it was very noticeable.
Congrats, she looks GORGEOUS! CLEAN UP, isle 5! And by aisle 5, I mean the front of my pants 😂
Interesting, and looks great. But why tung oil? Why not boiled linseed oil?
The only oil I’ve ever used on wood is Watco Danish oil finish after sanding which really made the grain pop and protected well, and was thinking about using that on my M1 Expert after sanding it out (off the rifle) while carefully avoiding the cartouche. (?)
Congrats on some beautiful grain on your M1, especially on the top hand guard.
Wolfhounds!
A-1/27IN 86-87
Thank you for showing. Does it need this every year?
I use boiled linseed oil.
Well that was painful to watch. Always remove metal from the stock to finish it. If only for the reason that you still have bare wood underneath now which is not sealed.
Wolfhounds!
Where did you get those hooks to hang it on your wall?
Real Hardwood Harvested in Wisconsin - Made in USA off Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B00SG3QT9E?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
@@thebennettbulletin3462 -- thanks, I purchased these hooks and will start this project this weekend. Excited!
Now you have to apply tung oil UNDER the steel parts and get it OFF the STEEL. Take it apart first, Hang the wood up and APPLY IT CORRECTLY.
Informative video, thanks
(I like the carpet and music too!)
Looks like a mosque
So you're saying put the oil on the cloth, then wipe it onto the wood?
I found that an easier way for myself to manage the amount of oil that was being applied over the rifle as a whole. I am sure that there are other really useful ways of applying the Tung Oil but this way worked really well for me. I am happy with the results. Cheers!
You can also use your fingertips or even a small cleaning patch. Less is more. You're gonna want to wipe off 90 percent of each coat you put on after 30 minutes or so. the secret is to apply the oil in micro-layers and let dry 24 hours between coats
The standard process when the M1 rifle was in mass production was to simply dip the stock into a vat of linseed oil and let it hang. Not rocket science.
I did a Yugoslavian SKS
I stripped it, sanded it, washed it. Then stained it. 8 coats of TruOil and I've been offered $1,200 for it lol, paid $300. I'll never sell it. My 1943 M1-GARAND has the original 80 year old stock so I'm gonna leave it alone. Looks like it fought many battles so I'm keeping it as is. But if I got a CMP Refurbished M1-GARAND Ide Probably Stain and TruOil it about 6 or 8 coats.
How long did it take for you to get your "Expert Grade" M1 from CMP?
@Jason T I only had to wait about three weeks from the time I mailed in my papers for the CMP to ship the rifle. At the time, the only two categories available were the rack grade and expert. I went with the expert.
@@thebennettbulletin3462 Thanks, I recently got a "Field Grade" and its pretty rough. I don't mind, its a 1944 make and I can fix it up. But seeing your Expert Grade, I think I'm gonna pull that trigger also. Also, love the Tung Oil treatment you did over the linseed oil. It's what they used later in the war and gives it that slightly darker stock color. Nice rifle - shoot straight.
@@jasont4852 Thanks for the comments, you have an awesome piece of history and I'd love to take a look at it once you're finished with it! I think this one dates to December 1944 or January 1945...? I love it. This was my first time applying Tung Oil to any stock, but I think it turned out amazing. Cheers brother.
30min background check at the CMP store. ;)
I sent my doc.s overnight delivery, I received the Expert grade rifle two or three days later. The offer stated delivery 6 to 8 weeks. I was amazed and gratified. The rifle was pristine.
Such a beautiful gun so many were made yet they are expensive now 😢 been wanting one so bad can’t see myself spending $2,500+
CMP M1 Garand prices, as of today, are $700, $800, $900, $1,150, $1,350 and $1,450 (for Rack, Field, Service and various Expert grades).
I used a sock.
Boiled linseed oil works better, IMO.
You should have taken the gun apart.
Decisions decisions, rack or expert. Can't beat a brand new garand, and if the aim is for gold might as well buy once cry once
I purchased with the intent to shoot it often. I've heard of people placing orders for other categories (like Field, which are all sold out) and the CMP getting back to them with options. It never hurts to ask!
I would NEVER take steel wool to it without first removing the furniture.
There is no way you can do it evenly without scratching the finish off the steel.
0000 grit with some gun oil shouldn’t damage the finish if you’re gentle. This technique works for removing rust
@MCPOSJ117films Yes but in this case it's just stupid...
Ok Video, thank God you can mute the sound.
How many coats of tung oil did you put on?
Three coats seemed to do the trick for now.
I have done tung and BLO and I think the tung is better. however, I took the wood off the rifle and taped the metal that wasn't super easy to remove. I have also taped the metal and left the hand guards on the rifle. not really any effort to tape and then I don't worry about oil getting anywhere other than wood nor do I worry about any sanding or buffing. The CMP wood always looks great after some oil. If you go to the store they usually have a few CMP sets to pick from so that you can get what you want. I have a few of my corrected rifles in CMP wood because they look so nice. Save the original wood for if I want the whole package correct.
Yea you did it the right way. This guy in the video half-assed it
Thanks for the info Joh. With you all the best with your rifles!
I'm having good luck with BLO then letting it sit in the sunlight for a few days, then hitting it with 3k copper wool, wipe it off and apply another coat. 7 coats total and then some satin finish and one pass of 3k copper wool. It looks awesome. 😊
Take the extra two minutes to dismantle the gun.
It looks much higher grade than rack or field grade
A rag? Use your hands, Lad! Work it in and you will get the right results. Use the rag to wipe down after and then wash your hands.
Take the stock off first my friend!
take the action out of the stock, then put the finish on the stock
That is a lazy man's way of doing it. Strip the stock down and wait at least 72 plus hours in between coats.
No, just no unless it’s a rifle destined to be part of a trophy for M1 competition or one which is bedded for high power rifle competition
The US armories didn’t share your opinion when they oiled them with the same stuff
Suggestion for some of you boys... Take the barreled receiver OUT of the stock and rub continuously WITH the grain especially with Walnut. AND (EDIT) treat the INSIDE of the stock and BEHIND the butt plate as well which are also steps lost on many. For me (personal OPINION), I like the near coffee black furniture on my Garands and M1A's with Overton-TRW and a OM stocks. And that often involves using an alcohol based stain AFTER any remnants of cosomoline, grease, grit, dirt is cleaned off the wood. Light color stocks don't do it for me. Don't understand how some seem fine with a pretty-ized museum piece of wood on a milsurp... and worse yet some will actually POLISH them to a high gloss. That's a sacrilege. Why have own a milsurp at all? Mind as well just get a poly-plastic gun in one of those sickening "desert" colors they make now. Even pink! George Patton must be twisting in his grave. This is a MAIN BATTLE RIFLE. A Man's rifle built by American Craftsmen, for Men. And arguably it remains the finest rifle ever designed let alone built. A milestone of American expertise in mechanical engineering even though John C. was a canadian by birth. It is not a toy. Can you imagine if the Garand had been built today? SA, H&R, IHC, WIN, would be sued out of existence by numayles getting their dainty little thumbs mashed between the breech and the bolt.
Please disassemble the poor thing before putting the Tung oil on it.😱 And don't steel wool the nice Parkerized parts..😱😱
Dear friend I hope you are fine . Friend I want to Polish and paint my M1 Garand so this rifle can be painted
As overhyped as I think this rifle is, with the "ping" fetish and all that, I must admit: she's one gorgeous piece.
You're either an enthusiast, or you're not. Simple as that. If you're watching then what kind of a comment is that?
You did it wrong
Why the F did you spoil the video with that ridiculous chamber flag?
When did you use the gunny paste
The tung oil should provide the needed waterproof barrier for this ol' M1.
If you’re finishing a stock, you should disassemble the rifle first.
Pretty obvious…
You are way overthinking this. Sure complete disassembly is the best way to go here, but GI's didn't do that when they put oil on their stocks, and you are not dousing your stock in oil, it's just a thin layer that can easily be wiped off. if a tiny bit of dried oil gets under the buttplate or the handguard clip nobody is gonna notice. This is a military rifle and stock, not a fancy grade bolt action hunting rifle.
@@TSimo113 Routine maintenance does not require disassembly. FINISHING does. And after that lengthy diatribe you wrote, clearly it is YOU who is over thinking...
@@Kaktus965 You are 100% correct in what you said.