I know this is an old video and will make a couple of comments, better late than never. That electronic pickup is called a cam position sensor, all it does it tell the ECU what cycle the engine is on, intake or exhaust. It is for startup only, you can unplug that unit and drive the vehicle all day long & it will continue to run just fine. But shut it off & it will not start until you plug it back in. Been there & experimented with it. On the harmonic balancer timing mark: Don't always assume that the mark is accurate, The outer ring is attached to the inner hub by rubber (vulcanized) and can slip, especially on an older vehicle. I have fabricated a device that threads into the #1 spark plug hole so that I can check piston position & check the timing mark. I have rebuilt all versions of the Magnum engines, 3.9, 5.2 & 5.9 and what you did is fairly common. A bigger problem arrives when you have to get the oil pump drive installed correctly on a rebuilt engine. The oil pump drive is what the distributor attaches to by way of the little tang on the dist shaft. The dist will only install one of 2 ways. However, the oil pump drive can install in one of several ways. Not going to get into that, complicated but a good FSM will explain (refer to a manual on the LA small block, works with the Magnum engines as well). The position of the dist on that Jeep is difficult. I had a 98 Ram 1500 pick-em-up and it was difficult to change but not as difficult as that Jeep. All I had to do was change the pick up, did it in a Captain D's parking lot. Wait till you have to change the crankshaft ignition trigger, lots of fun. Good video, explains all the basics.
Great fix there Todd.. I must admit that even as an ex mechanic of about 20 years I've never seen the inside of a distributor fall apart like that. Well perhaps other than about 20+ years ago when they had adjustable contact breaker points in there :) Cheers friend
***** I've never seen one blend before but I have seen magnetic pickups in the distributors fail in older cars. Shame it had to blend because I did have a spare pickup unit :(
@@quinstickman got one yesterday from rockauto, made by wai global - looks like a good unit, same kind I put in my chevy 4.3 a few years back they work good, not terribly expensive
@@kellismith4329 thanks now I can go finish my Jeep project. Just have to go to the junkyard to find it. In all seriousness, I sold my Jeep a couple years ago. The block cracked and I didn’t have the money to fix it and all the other issues.
NICE!!!!! great video, make some more!!!! you should go over the wiring in these jeeps! I have the same jeep, but not looking to good under hood. share your knowledge! Thanks
I have a question. I know this is an old video but it was helpful. Installed distributor on 2001 Dodge Ram 5.2L. Lined everything up perfectly, started it up first time and it starts up perfect, however when I go to shut off the truck, and go to restart, now it cranks with no start. I’m on aftermarket distributor number 2, made sure hold down plate and bolt were secured properly before starting. What could I possibly be missing here?
jix177 In my case this distributor tool was for an older car that I sold for scrap and my Jeep is the only vehicle I have left with a distributor so I figured not harm in moding the tool. It could still be used on cars so long as you have the wrench handle really. This is not as drastic as a sink I put in a few weeks ago where I had to use my Oxygen-Acetylene torch to bend a long needle noise pliers to fit up behind the sink and clamp on the faucet nuts. There is a special too just for this job, which I have, but it wouldn't fit our custom counter-top / sink install and we had to get the fanciest faucets you know.
Great video, lots of info to confuse people but you distributed it well (pun intended) but if you removed the distributor on TDC you don’t have to do your last steps. Still good info for people that are building a 318 and need to set the dis. Chrysler always was fun like that with this motor and lack of point reference. They kinda expected you to know what you were doing since there isn’t a dis gear like Chevy
Hello. I completely rebuilt the engine of the 5.2 ZJ I have. While the engine is in synth, I install the distributor facing the 1st ignition plug, but explosion occurs in the manifold of my vehicle. I'm sure the order is correct, I couldn't understand where I'm doing wrong, I'd appreciate it if you could help me.
Good Video! My distributor was stuck. Had to spray some PB Blaster on it and tap the metal housing with a hammer. Finally after a few pulls on it came out, but at the cost of my knuckles! Ouch!!!
+TheDarthEmperor Ya, I can imagine. I had had mine out a few years earlier when I put in a rebuild motor. Photos and post here: www.toddfun.com/2010/07/21/replacing-my-16-year-old-jeep-engine/
Bosch keyed the drive gear on my SAAB's distributor and the socket it plugs into on the intake cam so you can only put it on one way. Works great unless you get the cam timing wrong after replacing the timing chain...
FrankTheCat I thought the notch on this distributor shaft should have been keyed too but I guess they feel you can figure it out so long as you follow the book. I have the original yellow dealer service book for my Jeep so I get a ton of help you don't find in the after market auto service manuals that cover 10 years of similar models like Chilton and Haynes. My book is for just the 1994 Jeep v8 5.2L limited edition and its 4 inches think. Not sure how dealer repair shops can house such books for each year, bet they don't being they can get it all on line. I did try AllData's online paid service once but found way to much missing for a paid service and really the Haynes books are far more help than AllData.
+Caleb q I guess you could. I just find it easy to remove the TB, only 4 bolts, couple cables and some plugs. Easy peasy lemon squeezy and you have all that extra room. So much comes off so easy on this Jeep I normally take off anything in my way real fast and the job goes without so much hassle and fighting.
Awesome video great production and I have never had somebody even in auto class explain it so well, so thanks for that. I noticed your what are they called fog lights that sit on the front bumper that your lenses look like they falling out to you would be awesome if you did a video on how to fix those because I got brand new ODM replacement but it comes with a complete wiring and I can’t figure out where it goes so if you have done a video I looked on your channel and I didn’t see one or if you plan on doing one. I know of at least one fellow glutton for punishment jeep owner LOL that would really appreciate it but again thanks for the video. It was awesome. Thanks 🙏
Although I would have set TDC first before removing the distributor. . Very informative. . I'm going to be doing head gaskets on a 98 5.2 and just needed to see the best way to remove the distributor. Thank for the info..
Great video Todd. Thanks for sharing. Quick question: would just marking the original position of the rotor in relation to the distribution would be enough instead of turning the engine to compression of cyl 1?
Yes, that would work just fine. Good idea. Just have to remember to do that before starting is all and don't move the engine until the new distributor is replaced and done tight.
Yes, everything like in the video except for turning the engine from the harmonic balancer. I registered the position before taking the rotor out and then installed it at the same place.
I am in the middle of replacing the distributor in my 1995 5.2, it took 3 hours to pry it loose. I assumed It was from grime build up over the years. Once I removed it, I cleaned the area. I am presently attempting to install the new distributor, however, it seems to be fitting just as tight and I am not able to seat it all the way. Is it supposed to fit that tight? I assumed that it would drop right in once everything was aligned. I've also tapped on the shaft gently driving in and I'm getting nowhere.
Still need to get the fuel sync reset at the dealership with the DBR3 computer if not the exhaust valves can burn up and the head can crack from running to lean
Didn't know. Per my dealer service manual it only sets to set the timing and then run at different speeds for a few trips so the computer can reset itself. Maybe what you're refereeing to is a way to do it without driving it and letting the computer self correct. Strange a 1994 has such smarts but it says it does.
The DRB3 (DRAB3) was for OBDII. I worked for Chrysler when the DRB3 was introduced to us. On OBD1s, you can access flash codes by turning the ignition key on/off/on and count the flashing check engine light on the cluster. No need for a scanner. Code 55 = no codes/end of sequence (2 sets of 5 flashes). This procedure works on my 94 Grand Cherokee 5.2.
Since you eventually have to remove the intake in these to replace the failed plenum gasket, that is the time to swap out the distributor when you have easier access to it
My 94 won't start it cranks has fuel and shows spark new plugs wires fuel pump good fuel pressure I unplugged pump tried spraying staring fluid see if it will try to start off it nothing and was running just fine last night any ideas?
Those are vacuum lines that control EGR valve, fuel regulator and other such controls. They are very brittle now that they are 20 years old and I'm always breaking them. They fix easy with just a bit of small tubing so not as big a problem as one might thing. Too bad they can't make plastics that can last 20 years with all the heat cycles
my Jeep is the 5.2 4x4 it's a 94 anyway not sure what's up with it when it's in park and I shift it to drive it's like it's stuck in park same with all other gears idk any ideas?? I'm lost
Todd, that does not look like a 21 year old vehicle, you keep it so neat. Shows that even then GM made the engine so servicing it was easier out of the vehicle. There are a lot of modern vehicles where things like that require removing the engine and subframe to get to them, or you need to remove body panels to get there.
It's the same with routine things like changing light bulbs on some cars (French ones in my experience). My parents had a car in the 80s where the oil filler cap was between the engine and the firewall. Topping up the oil was very messy.
SeanBZA I do work on the Jeep often and I take my time when I do repairs so I clean everything. I also stop all leaks as soon as I see them which helps keep the engine clean. I rebuild the engine a few years ago and clean every single part in a parts cleaner. I didn't shoot a video but I did post a time line of photos and notes at my blog here: www.toddfun.com/2010/07/21/replacing-my-16-year-old-jeep-engine/
I have a question Mr Todd did you rotate the harmonic balancer clockwise all the way till it got to the top of the timing marks of TDC or counter clock wise ? Great video
Just wanna make sure cause my engine is off timing the same way yours was before you retimed it cause ima be doing this my self on my 97 dodge ram with the 5.9
You may have just solved a 5 year mystery on my 89 dakota... I narrowed the issue down to either the intake manifold gasket(s) / o2 sensor / S.M.E.C(computer) OR the T.B.T throttle body temp sensor.. I've replaced and tried multiple S.M.E.C units.. not the issue.. o2 is functioning properly, and the intake manifold gaskets may still potentially leak, however the idling/running issue I'm having is like a light switch.. Its either not running right, or its running flawlessly.. So that should eliminate the intake gaskets. LEAVING a mystery... because my very sepecific truck, the 1988-89 Dakota 3.9L Fuel injected v6 does NOT have a T.B.T sensor... It took some digging and experts to finally clue me in that it doesn't exist for this engine in this truck only. so... I ask myself what could be throwing off the fuel/air ratio intermittently? sometimes it runs flawlessly sometimes it wont run at all, sometimes you need to keep it above 2,000 rpms... sometimes it will idle for 8 hours straight better than a new car.. ?? hmm.. Then I see this video, and realize I have the exact same distributor (except for a 6 not an 8) and I also vaguely remember 10 years ago when I bought this truck it didn't have this problem.. a couple years in it stopped running completely, and my mechanic at the time replaced the distributor with a (cheap) option. The truck had a bad MAP/Throttle position/and IDLE speed control valve at the time as well that masked the problem... until later on I replaced every single thing on the entire truck... except the distributor.. and this video just made me realize. ITS THE GOD DAM DISTRIBUTOR. Gonna order one in the morning, if that solves the issue I'm gonna kick myself in the ass.
@@robsteele2427 lol no.. I do still have the old bastard though at 450,000 miles, truck runs the exact same it did before swapping the distributor. My final consensus is that its a fuel issue, not an ignition issue. Thus I'm going to just delete the fuel injection entirely, by-passing the in tank fuel pump with a low pressure in line fuel pump then swapping the throttle body injection unit with a two barrel carburetor, I wanted to avoid this because Chrysler themselves said in 1987 that the strange layout of the 3.9L v6's intake manifold routing caused a poor mixture of fuel to 2 of the cylinders (being that the heads are cut down 360 v8 heads, so the left bank had the front cylinder cut off and the right bank had the rear cylinder cut off the heads, meaning the intake manifold goes 2 forward then 1 rear on the left, and 2 rear and 1 forward on the right..) so their solution in 1988 was to use a throttle body injection system to atomize the fuel and get a better ratio to all 6 cylinders. So, I dont want to.. But I'm afraid its the only way to get the old truck to run year round without issues, other than just swap the engine.. Wich I hate to do, considering the old 450,000 mile engine runs flawlessly when it does run, no smoke no burning of anything.
@@gittyupalice96 Alright, thanks. Was asking because I am currently stumped with my 91 ramcharger (318) and I was just curious if your distributor made a difference for you. On my side of things I don't think it could possibly be fuel related - I've put in a new pump, new lines, new injectors (tbi)and obviously a new filter. I've replaced o2, tps, map sensors. Also cleaned all existing grounds, and added 4 new grounds. No luck. Fires right up, idles perfectly, but the moment I touch the throttle it sputters and tries to die. I'm leaning towards either an ignition issue, or maybe timing - either the chain itself, or maybe the computer is dying and not sending spark signal correctly. Been slamming my head into the wall over this for 3 weeks now.
Did you check all the vacuum hoses, sometimes they can have a crack that can vibrate open and close causing a mixture problem too exist or to disappear
Does My Oil Pressure Sensor have an O ring? Or a gasket? Because it needs to protrude into the oil galley to get an oil pressure reading from my 1993 318 Magnum engine. That sensor is leaking badly now, and pretending to be a rear main seal leak. It almost fooled me until my oil pressure gauge went dead in the red. I'm confirming tomorrow by taking the doghouse off in my van. And looking straight at my distributor & OP Sensor from between the two front seats. Which is something I can't take for granted after seeing this. You can even take the heads off from the doghouse inside this Dodge Van. The doghouse is a pain to get off.
When the oil pressure sensor starts leaking it is normally the seals in the sensor itself and you will need to replace it with a new sensor. Remember to get the correct socket to take it off and put on a new one or these sensors are a real bear to replace if even possible without the socket.
Leak fixed completely on my 1993 Dodge Ram B250 5.2 Magnum with 192,000 mi. WAS just the sensor. It was leaking & filled with oil. Oil was bubbling out of the wires in the clip in harness. I saved that & it's working well. Glad I don't have to remove my rear bearing cap yet for a new rear seal but look forward to replacing them & the plenum pan so I can size up the wear on the engine. Blue devil stopped front main seal leak so far. These random RUclips repair videos are so much easier than using a Chilton's or Haynes manual. Thanks, man!
Sachi WI Yes I did, Thanks for noticing. I have drop ~50lb and put on about ~10lb in muscle. I'm working hard to keep the weight off and put on more muscle but some weeks its a bit of a roller coaster ride.
Really enjoyed this video. I subscribe for the electronics stuff but it's nice to see you demonstrating your other interests as well. I know I am interested in many, many different things so it's nice to see others are as well. Oh, and did you lose some weight?
Woodnerd Yes, I dropped about 50 lbs and plan on trying my best to keep it off. I picked the blog name "ToddFun" because I know from the beginning I wouldn't be doing just electronics and I didn't want to try to sustain multiple channels. This way I do what I think is fun and my viewers already know that is the theme. It seems to be working and I do get to share a lot and learn a lot from my viewer comments.
hello I have a 97 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2 cold start it Start's right up no problem but I go into a store for about 20 minutes ant try to start it it cranks about 10 time's before it Start's would that be my problem to.
+Chuck Lamp It most likely is your crank sensor. But other ideas would be the PCM. You can get the crank sensor from any parts store or dealer but if it turn out to be the PCM you need to get the exact number off it and type it into eBay and hope somebody saved an exact matching numbered PCM.
Why does it have to be the same number? Cant any computer from that model be flashed? I only ask cause i'm dealing with a stalling problem and i'v replaced my crank shaft position sensor and stalling is persisting. my 94 jeep grand cherokee will die suddenly while driving and usually start right back up but sometimes take a while to re start. I'm doing all my plugs wires cap and rotor tomorrow but it may be the pcm.
You might get a good cross reference from a dealer but I got mine from an eBay seller that did the cross check for me. The number must match or be known to cross work with your number because different PCM's exist to control different factory options that the Jeep can come with. If you get the wrong one the PCM will not correctly control select options or will be trying to control options you don't have. Things like AC, transmission options and other items I would only be guessing at.
Just looking to do maint and replace worn items on my 96 Grand Jeep Cherokee Lardeo V8 5.2. Sadly I've never worked on my own cars/trucks before. With this jeep tho I feel the urge to do it myself. Same concet tho, this vid will still work with my jeep right?
Just finished. Did cap, plugs and wires. cap was a pain to get off till I have up, numbered the cords and got them out of the way. lol Thanks for the vid.
kd1s True. Vehicle design was in high flux back then with the change over to ODBII and full electronic ignition systems so I guess they did their best. I would say I don't like all the new auto tech but really with the ODBII it's not too hard to find faults in modern cars. And I don't seem to have to work on the modern cars as much as I did with the 1970's and 1980's cars of the past, so I think car design has got better even though all the plastic parts are crap and fail all the time. Just think if they used all metal parts with the high tech systems of today. Cars would last 100 years.
***** Oh yeah - now vehicles are pretty much modular. Which makes them MUCH easier to work on. And regards OBD-II in 1996 it makes buying a used car easier too. You can pick up a cheap scanner, plug it in and find out exactly what's wrong with a car.
kd1s So true. I have an older scanner but was thinking of getting the bluetooth unit that works with iPhone or Android just so I don't have to mess with all the wires for ODBII cars. I have a link on my Amazon store so if anybody gets one let me know how they like it: astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B00652G4TS
***** I got this one - all of $25 - it also plugs into a computer via USB. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KOZ25Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
KNOW THIS 3 YRS OLD BUT WHEN U IGNORANT ONLY WAY TO LEARN IS READ, TRY TO FIGURE IT OUT SOME HOW & THEN THERE'S JUSY SIMPLY ASKING. SO I ASK YOU HOW IMPORTANT IS IT TO LINE UP THE ROTOR WITH THE MARK? I REPLACED CAP & ROTOR BOUT A YEAR AGO ON MY 96 SAME ENGINE.
Well, if nothing moved inside the engine and old distributor came out fine and the new one went in the same exact point then you are fine. If things moved or you din't know if things were right you would have to line everything up correctly.
Not really. Uses tons of gas and the cylinder heads always crack between the valves meaning you have to replace not rebuild the heads when the they go bad.
Наука
I know this is an old video and will make a couple of comments, better late than never. That electronic pickup is called a cam position sensor, all it does it tell the ECU what cycle the engine is on, intake or exhaust. It is for startup only, you can unplug that unit and drive the vehicle all day long & it will continue to run just fine. But shut it off & it will not start until you plug it back in. Been there & experimented with it. On the harmonic balancer timing mark: Don't always assume that the mark is accurate, The outer ring is attached to the inner hub by rubber (vulcanized) and can slip, especially on an older vehicle. I have fabricated a device that threads into the #1 spark plug hole so that I can check piston position & check the timing mark. I have rebuilt all versions of the Magnum engines, 3.9, 5.2 & 5.9 and what you did is fairly common. A bigger problem arrives when you have to get the oil pump drive installed correctly on a rebuilt engine. The oil pump drive is what the distributor attaches to by way of the little tang on the dist shaft. The dist will only install one of 2 ways. However, the oil pump drive can install in one of several ways. Not going to get into that, complicated but a good FSM will explain (refer to a manual on the LA small block, works with the Magnum engines as well). The position of the dist on that Jeep is difficult. I had a 98 Ram 1500 pick-em-up and it was difficult to change but not as difficult as that Jeep. All I had to do was change the pick up, did it in a Captain D's parking lot. Wait till you have to change the crankshaft ignition trigger, lots of fun. Good video, explains all the basics.
This helped a lot. Not many videos or descriptions for the 5.2L v8, a lot for the 4.0 I6, thanks.
The good ol 318. love this motor smooth as silk.
Instablaster...
this is the best demonstration I ever seen good job
Thanks. I was happy to share.
Great fix there Todd.. I must admit that even as an ex mechanic of about 20 years I've never seen the inside of a distributor fall apart like that. Well perhaps other than about 20+ years ago when they had adjustable contact breaker points in there :)
Cheers friend
***** I've never seen one blend before but I have seen magnetic pickups in the distributors fail in older cars. Shame it had to blend because I did have a spare pickup unit :(
1
I'm sure the new distributor wasn't cheap; but you saved a butt load of money diagnosing the problem and installing it yourself. Well done!
Dennis Hill You are quite right. The distributor cost ~$110 but a dealer would want~$400 for such a part and another $400 to put it in I"m sure.
Todd Harrison hey, I know there’s a slim chance you’ll see this but where did you get the distributor from?
Johnny Flesh Frrrr
@@quinstickman got one yesterday from rockauto, made by wai global - looks like a good unit, same kind I put in my chevy 4.3 a few years back they work good, not terribly expensive
@@kellismith4329 thanks now I can go finish my Jeep project. Just have to go to the junkyard to find it.
In all seriousness, I sold my Jeep a couple years ago. The block cracked and I didn’t have the money to fix it and all the other issues.
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for. Very informative!
i have a 97 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 6i, will this work the same, can't find another video for my exact model?
NICE!!!!! great video, make some more!!!! you should go over the wiring in these jeeps! I have the same jeep, but not looking to good under hood. share your knowledge! Thanks
One good thing about a van is how easy this repair is.
This is true.
I have a question. I know this is an old video but it was helpful. Installed distributor on 2001 Dodge Ram 5.2L. Lined everything up perfectly, started it up first time and it starts up perfect, however when I go to shut off the truck, and go to restart, now it cranks with no start. I’m on aftermarket distributor number 2, made sure hold down plate and bolt were secured properly before starting. What could I possibly be missing here?
I just obd2 swapped my 1993 zj... now i can read data and codes. and the performance, wow what a difference.
How did you do that did you splice in a PCM from a ob2 model, 96 and up ZJ?
Nice job Tood, Thank you, Jeep, Chrysler , very bad design for access to fix, all is a problem and special tools.
Nice tooling with the distributor! I hate destroying or modifying a tool irrevocably but it was the right action in this case.
jix177 In my case this distributor tool was for an older car that I sold for scrap and my Jeep is the only vehicle I have left with a distributor so I figured not harm in moding the tool. It could still be used on cars so long as you have the wrench handle really. This is not as drastic as a sink I put in a few weeks ago where I had to use my Oxygen-Acetylene torch to bend a long needle noise pliers to fit up behind the sink and clamp on the faucet nuts. There is a special too just for this job, which I have, but it wouldn't fit our custom counter-top / sink install and we had to get the fanciest faucets you know.
Great video, lots of info to confuse people but you distributed it well (pun intended) but if you removed the distributor on TDC you don’t have to do your last steps. Still good info for people that are building a 318 and need to set the dis. Chrysler always was fun like that with this motor and lack of point reference. They kinda expected you to know what you were doing since there isn’t a dis gear like Chevy
Hello. I completely rebuilt the engine of the 5.2 ZJ I have. While the engine is in synth, I install the distributor facing the 1st ignition plug, but explosion occurs in the manifold of my vehicle. I'm sure the order is correct, I couldn't understand where I'm doing wrong, I'd appreciate it if you could help me.
Good Video! My distributor was stuck. Had to spray some PB Blaster on it and tap the metal housing with a hammer. Finally after a few pulls on it came out, but at the cost of my knuckles! Ouch!!!
+TheDarthEmperor Ya, I can imagine. I had had mine out a few years earlier when I put in a rebuild motor. Photos and post here: www.toddfun.com/2010/07/21/replacing-my-16-year-old-jeep-engine/
Bosch keyed the drive gear on my SAAB's distributor and the socket it plugs into on the intake cam so you can only put it on one way. Works great unless you get the cam timing wrong after replacing the timing chain...
FrankTheCat I thought the notch on this distributor shaft should have been keyed too but I guess they feel you can figure it out so long as you follow the book. I have the original yellow dealer service book for my Jeep so I get a ton of help you don't find in the after market auto service manuals that cover 10 years of similar models like Chilton and Haynes. My book is for just the 1994 Jeep v8 5.2L limited edition and its 4 inches think. Not sure how dealer repair shops can house such books for each year, bet they don't being they can get it all on line. I did try AllData's online paid service once but found way to much missing for a paid service and really the Haynes books are far more help than AllData.
Great video I will probably be updating my 94 would it be better to put number 1 on top dead center before taking apart
yes
I did it without removing throttle body :) You can squeeze the cap between the transmission dipstick and wires. screw you Chrysler lol
+Caleb q I guess you could. I just find it easy to remove the TB, only 4 bolts, couple cables and some plugs. Easy peasy lemon squeezy and you have all that extra room. So much comes off so easy on this Jeep I normally take off anything in my way real fast and the job goes without so much hassle and fighting.
***** yeah probably the smarter move I agree lol
Thanks for video, do you already find erro code 12?
Thanks For the video , big help with my 1999 dodge durango its same motor so thank a lot
Glad to help.
Would have been good to mention the fuel sync reset that is necessary after this, pretty important part of a distributor replacement on a 5.2 or 5.9
Awesome video great production and I have never had somebody even in auto class explain it so well, so thanks for that. I noticed your what are they called fog lights that sit on the front bumper that your lenses look like they falling out to you would be awesome if you did a video on how to fix those because I got brand new ODM replacement but it comes with a complete wiring and I can’t figure out where it goes so if you have done a video I looked on your channel and I didn’t see one or if you plan on doing one. I know of at least one fellow glutton for punishment jeep owner LOL that would really appreciate it but again thanks for the video. It was awesome.
Thanks 🙏
Nice idea. But I never use them and have since removed them completely.
I thought the TDC mark is the v8 marking...???
my roadtrek van with a 318 starts runs rough and in drive has very little power. what could this be?
Leaking vacuum through the lower plenum of the intake
Although I would have set TDC first before removing the distributor. . Very informative. . I'm going to be doing head gaskets on a 98 5.2 and just needed to see the best way to remove the distributor. Thank for the info..
Very true. I think even said that in the video but I'd have to re-watch it to make sure.
It's probably your heads that are bad
Great video Todd. Thanks for sharing. Quick question: would just marking the original position of the rotor in relation to the distribution would be enough instead of turning the engine to compression of cyl 1?
Yes, that would work just fine. Good idea. Just have to remember to do that before starting is all and don't move the engine until the new distributor is replaced and done tight.
Cool. I'm tackling this on my 96 this weekend. Thanks a bunch!
did you get it done...doing mine soon
Yes, everything like in the video except for turning the engine from the harmonic balancer. I registered the position before taking the rotor out and then installed it at the same place.
I am in the middle of replacing the distributor in my 1995 5.2, it took 3 hours to pry it loose. I assumed It was from grime build up over the years. Once I removed it, I cleaned the area. I am presently attempting to install the new distributor, however, it seems to be fitting just as tight and I am not able to seat it all the way. Is it supposed to fit that tight? I assumed that it would drop right in once everything was aligned. I've also tapped on the shaft gently driving in and I'm getting nowhere.
It should drop in without resistance.
Still need to get the fuel sync reset at the dealership with the DBR3 computer if not the exhaust valves can burn up and the head can crack from running to lean
Didn't know. Per my dealer service manual it only sets to set the timing and then run at different speeds for a few trips so the computer can reset itself. Maybe what you're refereeing to is a way to do it without driving it and letting the computer self correct. Strange a 1994 has such smarts but it says it does.
The DRB3 (DRAB3) was for OBDII. I worked for Chrysler when the DRB3 was introduced to us. On OBD1s, you can access flash codes by turning the ignition key on/off/on and count the flashing check engine light on the cluster. No need for a scanner. Code 55 = no codes/end of sequence (2 sets of 5 flashes). This procedure works on my 94 Grand Cherokee 5.2.
Great video. Just what I was looking for. Thanks
Glad it helped
Since you eventually have to remove the intake in these to replace the failed plenum gasket, that is the time to swap out the distributor when you have easier access to it
My 94 won't start it cranks has fuel and shows spark new plugs wires fuel pump good fuel pressure I unplugged pump tried spraying staring fluid see if it will try to start off it nothing and was running just fine last night any ideas?
Find the reason? I have a 99 ram 1500 5.9 having the same issue
What are those hard small hoses that go to the intake manifold that you mention on the video, kinda broke one 😣
Those are vacuum lines that control EGR valve, fuel regulator and other such controls. They are very brittle now that they are 20 years old and I'm always breaking them. They fix easy with just a bit of small tubing so not as big a problem as one might thing. Too bad they can't make plastics that can last 20 years with all the heat cycles
Hey. I will buy a 1998 one with 318 engine. It has a LPG system and in low RPMS it doesn't ignite right. What could be the problem
Sorry, I wouldn't know anything about a LPG system.
my Jeep is the 5.2 4x4 it's a 94 anyway not sure what's up with it when it's in park and I shift it to drive it's like it's stuck in park same with all other gears idk any ideas?? I'm lost
+Wade Bowman Hard to say really. could be the shift sensor or bad linkage or your transmission has failed.
It's obvious you don't live in New England. Clean motor.
This works on a newer grand (97) still magnum it's v8 with out egr it's the same process?
Best to check the service manuals
Awsome tutorial with valuable information. I'll be using on my 98 5.9er, thank you kindly sir, sub for sure!!
Todd, that does not look like a 21 year old vehicle, you keep it so neat. Shows that even then GM made the engine so servicing it was easier out of the vehicle. There are a lot of modern vehicles where things like that require removing the engine and subframe to get to them, or you need to remove body panels to get there.
It's the same with routine things like changing light bulbs on some cars (French ones in my experience).
My parents had a car in the 80s where the oil filler cap was between the engine and the firewall. Topping up the oil was very messy.
SeanBZA I do work on the Jeep often and I take my time when I do repairs so I clean everything. I also stop all leaks as soon as I see them which helps keep the engine clean. I rebuild the engine a few years ago and clean every single part in a parts cleaner. I didn't shoot a video but I did post a time line of photos and notes at my blog here: www.toddfun.com/2010/07/21/replacing-my-16-year-old-jeep-engine/
I have a question Mr Todd did you rotate the harmonic balancer clockwise all the way till it got to the top of the timing marks of TDC or counter clock wise ? Great video
Just wanna make sure cause my engine is off timing the same way yours was before you retimed it cause ima be doing this my self on my 97 dodge ram with the 5.9
Righty tightly, lefty backwards
You may have just solved a 5 year mystery on my 89 dakota... I narrowed the issue down to either the intake manifold gasket(s) / o2 sensor / S.M.E.C(computer) OR the T.B.T throttle body temp sensor.. I've replaced and tried multiple S.M.E.C units.. not the issue.. o2 is functioning properly, and the intake manifold gaskets may still potentially leak, however the idling/running issue I'm having is like a light switch.. Its either not running right, or its running flawlessly.. So that should eliminate the intake gaskets. LEAVING a mystery... because my very sepecific truck, the 1988-89 Dakota 3.9L Fuel injected v6 does NOT have a T.B.T sensor... It took some digging and experts to finally clue me in that it doesn't exist for this engine in this truck only. so... I ask myself what could be throwing off the fuel/air ratio intermittently? sometimes it runs flawlessly sometimes it wont run at all, sometimes you need to keep it above 2,000 rpms... sometimes it will idle for 8 hours straight better than a new car.. ?? hmm.. Then I see this video, and realize I have the exact same distributor (except for a 6 not an 8) and I also vaguely remember 10 years ago when I bought this truck it didn't have this problem.. a couple years in it stopped running completely, and my mechanic at the time replaced the distributor with a (cheap) option. The truck had a bad MAP/Throttle position/and IDLE speed control valve at the time as well that masked the problem... until later on I replaced every single thing on the entire truck... except the distributor.. and this video just made me realize. ITS THE GOD DAM DISTRIBUTOR. Gonna order one in the morning, if that solves the issue I'm gonna kick myself in the ass.
I realize this was 3 years ago, but I am curious if the new distributor fixed your problem?
@@robsteele2427 lol no.. I do still have the old bastard though at 450,000 miles, truck runs the exact same it did before swapping the distributor. My final consensus is that its a fuel issue, not an ignition issue. Thus I'm going to just delete the fuel injection entirely, by-passing the in tank fuel pump with a low pressure in line fuel pump then swapping the throttle body injection unit with a two barrel carburetor, I wanted to avoid this because Chrysler themselves said in 1987 that the strange layout of the 3.9L v6's intake manifold routing caused a poor mixture of fuel to 2 of the cylinders (being that the heads are cut down 360 v8 heads, so the left bank had the front cylinder cut off and the right bank had the rear cylinder cut off the heads, meaning the intake manifold goes 2 forward then 1 rear on the left, and 2 rear and 1 forward on the right..) so their solution in 1988 was to use a throttle body injection system to atomize the fuel and get a better ratio to all 6 cylinders. So, I dont want to.. But I'm afraid its the only way to get the old truck to run year round without issues, other than just swap the engine.. Wich I hate to do, considering the old 450,000 mile engine runs flawlessly when it does run, no smoke no burning of anything.
@@gittyupalice96 Alright, thanks. Was asking because I am currently stumped with my 91 ramcharger (318) and I was just curious if your distributor made a difference for you.
On my side of things I don't think it could possibly be fuel related - I've put in a new pump, new lines, new injectors (tbi)and obviously a new filter. I've replaced o2, tps, map sensors. Also cleaned all existing grounds, and added 4 new grounds. No luck. Fires right up, idles perfectly, but the moment I touch the throttle it sputters and tries to die.
I'm leaning towards either an ignition issue, or maybe timing - either the chain itself, or maybe the computer is dying and not sending spark signal correctly. Been slamming my head into the wall over this for 3 weeks now.
Did you check all the vacuum hoses, sometimes they can have a crack that can vibrate open and close causing a mixture problem too exist or to disappear
At the time it was cheaper to continue using the distributor because they did not have to make change in the block to drive oil pump.
This part could be to blame for multiple symptoms, hard start, rough running, cutting out while hot and many other issues
Link to the kit?
What the name of that special tool?
You use on that one bolt on distributor
carburetor wrench
you are a rock star...
Thanks for video, personally looking for hold down bolt location 😄. Thanks 👍 🤜🤜 🇺🇸
Thanks. Welcome.
thanks Todd :]
Does My Oil Pressure Sensor have an O ring? Or a gasket? Because it needs to protrude into the oil galley to get an oil pressure reading from my 1993 318 Magnum engine. That sensor is leaking badly now, and pretending to be a rear main seal leak. It almost fooled me until my oil pressure gauge went dead in the red. I'm confirming tomorrow by taking the doghouse off in my van. And looking straight at my distributor & OP Sensor from between the two front seats. Which is something I can't take for granted after seeing this. You can even take the heads off from the doghouse inside this Dodge Van. The doghouse is a pain to get off.
When the oil pressure sensor starts leaking it is normally the seals in the sensor itself and you will need to replace it with a new sensor. Remember to get the correct socket to take it off and put on a new one or these sensors are a real bear to replace if even possible without the socket.
Leak fixed completely on my 1993 Dodge Ram B250 5.2 Magnum with 192,000 mi. WAS just the sensor. It was leaking & filled with oil. Oil was bubbling out of the wires in the clip in harness. I saved that & it's working well. Glad I don't have to remove my rear bearing cap yet for a new rear seal but look forward to replacing them & the plenum pan so I can size up the wear on the engine. Blue devil stopped front main seal leak so far. These random RUclips repair videos are so much easier than using a Chilton's or Haynes manual. Thanks, man!
Great video. Thank you.
And thank you for visiting.
You need to get a headlight kit for that beast and bring the lenses back EricTheCarGuy reviews or shows a good product to use for that
Sachi WI Just did that this weekend, thanks for the idea. I pickup up the 3M kit and it work great! I did my wife's car too.
***** Have you lost some weight and built up some muscle mass? It sure looks that way in your recent videos :o)
Sachi WI Yes I did, Thanks for noticing. I have drop ~50lb and put on about ~10lb in muscle. I'm working hard to keep the weight off and put on more muscle but some weeks its a bit of a roller coaster ride.
***** the older we get the harder it is to put on muscle
Where did you get the OBD1 scanner??
amzn.to/2KSaazQ
Sorry I just noticed you have your hood light unplug to let me guess the hood shut off switch doesn’t work
Just don’t want it on when working. I have good lighting.
Very imformative
Very helpful
Thank you
Did you reset the fuel sync ?
Korie Creson fuel sync?
I have a 95 dodge Dakota 4x4 with ax-15 trans and same motor. I too would like to know if you had to adjust fuel sync with a scanner¿?
TDC Compression stroke!
Very good job thx
Really enjoyed this video. I subscribe for the electronics stuff but it's nice to see you demonstrating your other interests as well. I know I am interested in many, many different things so it's nice to see others are as well. Oh, and did you lose some weight?
Woodnerd Yes, I dropped about 50 lbs and plan on trying my best to keep it off. I picked the blog name "ToddFun" because I know from the beginning I wouldn't be doing just electronics and I didn't want to try to sustain multiple channels. This way I do what I think is fun and my viewers already know that is the theme. It seems to be working and I do get to share a lot and learn a lot from my viewer comments.
With all that timing and setting could see why most people never get these Jeep to start up! Great video tho
Very true! thanks
hello I have a 97 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2 cold start it Start's right up no problem but I go into a store for about 20 minutes ant try to start it it cranks about 10 time's before it Start's would that be my problem to.
+Chuck Lamp It most likely is your crank sensor. But other ideas would be the PCM. You can get the crank sensor from any parts store or dealer but if it turn out to be the PCM you need to get the exact number off it and type it into eBay and hope somebody saved an exact matching numbered PCM.
OK thanks bud
Why does it have to be the same number? Cant any computer from that model be flashed? I only ask cause i'm dealing with a stalling problem and i'v replaced my crank shaft position sensor and stalling is persisting. my 94 jeep grand cherokee will die suddenly while driving and usually start right back up but sometimes take a while to re start. I'm doing all my plugs wires cap and rotor tomorrow but it may be the pcm.
You might get a good cross reference from a dealer but I got mine from an eBay seller that did the cross check for me. The number must match or be known to cross work with your number because different PCM's exist to control different factory options that the Jeep can come with. If you get the wrong one the PCM will not correctly control select options or will be trying to control options you don't have. Things like AC, transmission options and other items I would only be guessing at.
cool thanks ill look and see. I think they replaced it once before so i bet it may have some faults if my work does not fix it.
Just looking to do maint and replace worn items on my 96 Grand Jeep Cherokee Lardeo V8 5.2. Sadly I've never worked on my own cars/trucks before. With this jeep tho I feel the urge to do it myself. Same concet tho, this vid will still work with my jeep right?
+Michael Moman A lot of it should. However they did make some changes.
Just finished. Did cap, plugs and wires. cap was a pain to get off till I have up, numbered the cords and got them out of the way. lol Thanks for the vid.
Sure, glad to help.
thx man
i try to make it this but the rotor was broke jejeje
Jaka powinna być prawidłowa kompresja ?
Nie jestem pewien, ale na pewno coś powyżej 120 psi byłoby dobre.
Do you still drive this?
Yes I do.
Apresentar manual do chicote eletrico do5.2 v8 ano 99
Obrigada
Just proves that in the 1990's Jeep didn't exactly put forethought into engine building. Scary.
kd1s True. Vehicle design was in high flux back then with the change over to ODBII and full electronic ignition systems so I guess they did their best. I would say I don't like all the new auto tech but really with the ODBII it's not too hard to find faults in modern cars. And I don't seem to have to work on the modern cars as much as I did with the 1970's and 1980's cars of the past, so I think car design has got better even though all the plastic parts are crap and fail all the time. Just think if they used all metal parts with the high tech systems of today. Cars would last 100 years.
***** Oh yeah - now vehicles are pretty much modular. Which makes them MUCH easier to work on. And regards OBD-II in 1996 it makes buying a used car easier too. You can pick up a cheap scanner, plug it in and find out exactly what's wrong with a car.
kd1s So true. I have an older scanner but was thinking of getting the bluetooth unit that works with iPhone or Android just so I don't have to mess with all the wires for ODBII cars. I have a link on my Amazon store so if anybody gets one let me know how they like it: astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B00652G4TS
***** I got this one - all of $25 - it also plugs into a computer via USB.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KOZ25Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
kd1s That is a great price for a code reader. Not ODBI but still good for new then 1996.
KNOW THIS 3 YRS OLD BUT WHEN U IGNORANT ONLY WAY TO LEARN IS READ, TRY TO FIGURE IT OUT SOME HOW & THEN THERE'S JUSY SIMPLY ASKING. SO I ASK YOU HOW IMPORTANT IS IT TO LINE UP THE ROTOR WITH THE MARK? I REPLACED CAP & ROTOR BOUT A YEAR AGO ON MY 96 SAME ENGINE.
Well, if nothing moved inside the engine and old distributor came out fine and the new one went in the same exact point then you are fine. If things moved or you din't know if things were right you would have to line everything up correctly.
is the 318 a Good motor
Not really. Uses tons of gas and the cylinder heads always crack between the valves meaning you have to replace not rebuild the heads when the they go bad.
5.2 and 5.9 are great motors. Can take a lot of abuse.
Absolutely! Just as reliable as the 242!
Hey todd do you have a number to be reached at i need help with distributor
Not sure how much more help I can be.
Gabriel Mendez
Shushia Marin yes
Awesome video! Thank You
Your welcome Frank!
Dia electric grease is not conductive ...do not use on mating suffusive s
💪🏾
Thanks
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