We bought electric air dehumifier for this season and it has been one of the best things we have bought for our boat. Basically zero problems with moisture after that.
Tim, will definitely install a H2out filter on my vent line. To completely drain my bilge I wired in a peristaltic pump which sucks up every last drop of water. I just run the discharge tubing into the sink when I find any residual water, usually after heavy rain.
Great timing Tim. Been working on that exact issue all week here on the Tennessee River. As a former hvacr guy I'm totally trying that fridge trick you recommended. Here's a few I've learned in my 4 years as a sailor so far and my 1st as a liveaboard. Tip 1: Below 60F, without heat or a dehumidifier your ceiling is wet, there's no way around that impass. It's dripping on your cups, clothes, bedding, whatever is below it every morning. Crack your sealed cubbies and closets (I recently louvered a few to avoid this) and place moisture absorbing devices in them; which are cheaper at Walmart / Amazon (refillable) and dollar tree (single use) for us brokies. I personally refill, and have them where advised including my lazarette. Tip 2: Bilge emptying is critical and made easier with a portable hand held transfer pump you can drain into a bucket. Harbor Frieght carries a battery operated one for $13 I use for my dinghy and occasionally my sailboat. I have exposed keel bolts so this is a must beyond humidity control. Recommend Seaflo anything, so if you can afford it, get the system in the video, I'm sure it's worth it. Tip 3: Permanently mounted / wired fans to circulate air should be considered mandatory equipment in use at almost all times of the day or night above 70 percent humidity. Tip 4: Consider humidity percentage monitoring essential to your comfort and dryness. When you understand when and where trouble conditions exist you can take steps to address it. *Food for thought fella's: WiFi / Bluetooth monitoring / running of marine systems are becoming cheaper every year I tech. It's becoming a bigger request from my clients of more modest incomes. My client last week fired up his houseboat heat from his phone in the Chevy on the way to his slip for example. The Mrs was greatful. 😅
Aboard our Catalina 425 we installed a PSS shaft seal and can maintain a bone dry bilge most of the season. This makes it very easy to determine e the source of any leak (fresh or salt). We get into a moisture battle in fall and spring when we winter in the water (near Boston) as the hull sweats with the temperature swings. Keeping a heater going, running a dehumidifier draining to the sink, and fans on mechanical timers as well as DampRid desiccants seems to keep us dry and mold free.
On my last two boats, on 41 and one 42 foot, I installed a low power draw squirrel cage blower in the engine compartment. It completely eliminates all odors from the boat. It also helps rid the boat of excess humidity. The engine block would be constantly coated with condensation until I installed the ventilator. It has been running constantly for the last 12 years. Draws about an amp or so.
Been using those H2out canisters in my gun safe for years. They work like a champion. Toss em in the oven at 350 degrees for an hour or 2 to recharge them once every couple of months.
Brilliant! Thank you. I’ve been sailing for 55 years and I didn’t know about the first or last product. I really appreciate your advice. We watch you every week and watch Lady K too!
I would suggest using the "obvious" at dock ..a dehumidifier. Mine is a 50 liter size and is on a timer, 6 hours per day. Its amazing how much water it sucks out of the air. No mold as a result .
I have been living permanently on my 38-foot ketch (Contest 38s) for three years now. One year in the Netherlands and now two years in the Azores. So, very humid regions. The only measure against humidity in the ship is evacuation! Everything else is gimmicky and ineffective. I use a dehumidifier for this, namely the MEACO DDL8. Highly efficient (often 3 liters per day). By the highest setting (650 watts), I can even dry my laundry overnight in the shower, with the door closed. It is equipped with an automatic humidity sensor and switches itself on and off automatically. There is nothing better. And the bilge is also bone dry. - And as a side effect, this device also pleasantly warms my three rooms in cool times.
I will try that filter. I keep a dehumidifier running 24/7 when my boat is in the slip. Humidity in my boat is typically around 45-50%. Outside it’s generally in the 90’s. My bilge is dry. The air is fresh. Nothing is damp.
We have the canister dry item and use it in our fridge often. It works great! Looks to have been in the boat for a while and we've owned it for 5 years.
Boating in the Pacific Northwest over the past 40 years I've learned that nothing beats a mechanical type dehumidifier for keeping the interior dry and smelling sweet. I've used the small room models over the years. Obviously, not during the summer when I'm using the boat, and I don't live aboard, so the dehumidifier is brought aboard in fall runs on automatic when not aboard. When first started up in the early fall I get a bucket (22 pints) within a few days. Then, as the interior materials dry, a bucket a week until everything dries out and then it's a bucket every few weeks. The Peltier type units also work, but not nearly as effectively as the old style compressor type. Some of my clients have theirs set up to drain into the galley sink, continuous operation with no bucket to dump. I like to know how much water I'm deleting.
I have been adding Dynamo kitchen soap to my bilge for 52 years. It prevents gooey buildup, smells like Jujubes, and was one of the first biodegradable products back then, and helps rally pump out the bilge. Up in Maine over the years, the cold water and daytime air allowed a lot od condensation. I highly recommend it.
I saw a suggestion somewhere to put a valve somewhere in the tank vent hose. This would islolate the tank from the outside humidity. Just have to remember to open it before getting underway!
Like you keep saying “keep the water on the outside of the boat”, I would use any and all means possible to keep the inside as dry as possible, just for the comfort of dry clothes, but H2O free diesel seems like a no brainer. Thanks Tim 👍😎👍
In my experience water in the bilge means there is/are leaks. My last boat, a mid 80s Catalina 36 had a wet bilge. After 2 years and finding around 20 or so leaks, ranging from deck hardware to flex in the full water tank breaking the seal in the inspection hatch and leaking, I eventually had a consistently dry bilge. So I think a wet bilge is an indicator of leaks and with perseverance can be made into a dry bilge. Even the drip from the packing gland on the shaft was eradicated by using a goretex stuffing material which stopped the drip with no detrimental effect on the prop shaft. My current boat, an 1986 Moody 47 had 6 inches of water in the bilge when I got her. So far I have isolated and sorted about 10 leak sources and the bilge is almost dry. I will find the remains leaks in due course and will have a dry bilge.
I lived aboard for year (Catalina 36) and I had very few moisture problems, at least up in Maine anyway. If it was above 65° and not raining then all the hatches were open and with a forced air diesel heater (drawing outside and inside air) it blasted enough dry air into the cabin. Only when I cruised down south did I start to get any form of routine dampness aboard. But again airflow solved that to a great extent except for the little draws next to the hanging locker outside the head, the bottom two could get a little damp but tossing a few desiccant cans in there did the trick, bake the cans once a month and hey presto good to go again. I do strongly second the fuel vent dryer/filter though especially in damp climates with temperature swings. Cool damp air gets sucked in at night then condenses in the morning when things warm back up. Wash rinse repeat enough times and boom wet fuel.
To avoid condensation in a boat, you need ventilation. I had a lot of condensation in my 46 foot sailboat. but all the condensation disappeared after I put two solar valves in. I made several holes in all bulkheads so that the air does not stand still but has a steady exchange when the solar fans are running. After that I have no problem with condensation😊
Of course ventilation is good. But if the relative humidity outside is higher than inside, it won't help you at all. On the contrary, the humidity inside MUST be evacuated. The volume in my ship is about 65 m3 and I can only keep it dry with an electric device, as mentioned before.
I had a 35’sailboat for many years , we used to place those closet, dry bags that take moisture out of the air in our boats closets, and that make them for draws and flat services, very cheap,at DIY stores , also cleaned and painted my bilge ! I would add toilet tank cleaner to the bilge that stops all growth and there is no smell , even the sea water looked great ! When at dock on those cool nights I would have a small heater running all the time , I was designed to run continuously, there was no moisture in the boat and it was nice and toasty . All very inexpensive and worked great , on the hook we would run the diesel engine for hot water for showers and cleanup then open the engine covers , the heat from the engine after running would warm up the boat Surprisingly !
Quick air drying trick for a damp boat while aboard. Heat the boat with the vented cabin heater until it is comfortably warm. Keep hatches closed. Moisture is picked up by the warm air and condensation droplets on cold surfaces disappear as they are absorbed. After an appropriate time, open the hatches and allow the drier outside air to flow freely throughout the cabin. In just a few minutes close the wide open hatches and enjoy a much drier boat. The previous warmth in all the interior surfaces quickly brings the temperature back to comfort level.
We have had the Seaflo Dry Bilge system for several years. It generally works well. My two biggest complaints would be that it is extremely hard to program, much less see when if you have the controller installed somewhere discreet. Secondly, the sponges are very small and get clogged very quickly requiring replacements. (Your test clip seems to use tap water)
My digital thermometers usually read about 60% humidity at dock in Oxnard, Southern California (desert adjacent... so it'll probably be higher in other places.) I first put my clothes in plastic bins I got at Target, but they got boat stinky. So I made a bunch of really cheap dry bags the the bins sit inside of. Everything is white so it's easy to open them and look in to find something. When we sailed across the Pacific we had four or five straight days off Vancouver Island in dense fog. Everything was streaming water. All of my clothes including those stuffed tightly in a sealed hatch got damp and mildewy. I had spare dry bags in my duffle.. but stupidly didn't stow any of my clothes in them. I think I'll get one of the AVD Fuel Guards. A fuel tank is a contained volume so it's not like running a dehumidifier with a hatch open
I bet you could take that filter part when it's absorbed all that it can. Empty the beads onto a baking sheet and dehydrate them in the oven or in a dehydrator. They are likely to be the same thing as those little moisture packets you always see. Those can be reused through the same process.
Water inside the boat in the bilge....I stopped accepting that a few decades ago when I went from wooden boats to fiberglass. With great difficulty we have chased down small and large leaks. It is very nice to have it completely dry so that you can detect when something bad happens. You avoid unpleasant smelly stuff and can vacuum away rubbish. It is not easy to achieve, however, it is useful. We have found small cracks and very small leaks in unexpected places that no one bothered about for many years. To keep the air dry we have successfully used electric dehumidifiers when appropriate and calcium chloride as the passive option. Where I live, I buy calcium chloride cheaply in 25 kg sacks where the farmers shop.
Another sources of water in a diesl fuel tank is a bad o-ring/seal on the deck fill cap. Water from rain / washing the boat leaks past the seal into the tank.
"What do you think?" I think I'm going shopping. My bilge sump hasn't been dry in years. And there's a spot, as my boat sits on the hard, that's collecting water that doesn't drain to the sump, (maybe the boat isn't quite level?), it smells bad, and the dry bilge system might help with that, too. As I say, I'm going to go shopping.....
Nigel is barking up the wrong tree. Most diesel fuel seawater contamination comes from flush filler valves on deck. Boat water holds have the same scheme. How does this happen? Answ: It doesn't matter. It happens. Disconnect the fuel fillers on deck....and the water filler, and carry liquids below or fill another way. Tank vents get run the same way. Nigel's vent? It's bad. Not really, but it's a distraction. That's a golden way to perpetuate problems. I hoped we could think about boat plumbing, like cooling water and water cooled refrigeration, that are dopey schemes. I homemade a dripless propeller shaft seal. Now that's a dry scheme. There's one more thing. Dry isn't good enough. When you get your boat dry, wash away the salt residue with fresh water routinely. Your bilge dry gadget is nice.
I wonder what happens to that tank vent dehumidifier when filling up. Diesel foams, at my tank it is filling up with diesel because of the high air flow at that moment. Will it keep on doing its job?
I have always had problems with the non-return valve used in conjunction with the bilge pump allowing water to return to the bilge after the pump stops. Having spent extra money on an electrical sensor system rather than the conventional float switch, this runs for so many seconds after the water has been pumped out, only to see the water seep back in. Hull shape dictates that there will always be water in the line, so unless there is a better type of non-return valve that's impervious to contaminants in the bilge I'm stuck with this problem.
Get salt bag based systems, just make sure the water collector is emptied regularly and does not tip over, because then you have the severely corrosive solution attacking metal parts. Silica gel bags should also work and are cheap as f
Some kitty litter is made of silica gel. Fill an sock with some and put in your locker. Put it out in the sun occasionally to drive off the moisture, then replace it.
For closets etc. sthey make a rechargeable dessicant dehumidier called "EVA-Dry". An indicator turns pink when it needs to be recharged, then youu plug it into a 120vac outlet overnight and an internal heater drives the moisture out. I use these on my photo /electronics gear when they are stored. Also, clothes in large ziplock bags with these to prevent mold. Two sizes, the -500 is larger. You-tube link: ruclips.net/video/6lQAhgOeTqw/видео.html
When I lived on my boat in the PNW I had lots of condensation even though my boat was comparatively well insulated. I had double pain windows, 1.5” thick walls and deck and a dry bilge. The very act of living in the boat created the moisture. I cruise in Mexico now and thankfully condensation is in my past ( until I get back east)
Hi, for dry fuel the first task should be to replace and grease the diesel deck fill O ring each year. Most people do not replace any of their deck fill O rings. Secondly my Catalina 36 has a dry bilge because I have an Arid Bilge System that again uses pads and a vacuum system on a timer to keep the bilge dry.
I sponge my bilge dry. I use a hand pump into a bucket then sponge the rest of the way. Where does the little hose go on this system. To the sink? Looks like a pain to run the small hose. This isn’t going to work good.
Hey buddy love your show. If you're worried about water in the fuel tank just add a little bit of methyl hydrate. Moisture is gone. Ps diesels love a little bit of transmission fluid in the fuel cell as conditioner Cheers
Right there with you on the ATF as diesel fuel conditioner. The old farm / construction guys swear by filling their filters at replacement on em. However the science doesn't support your conclusions on methanol. Which I'm sure you meant as methyl hydrate isn't soluble in any fuel and is meant to be under pressure (think propane) to work. Methanol is actually corrosive and hydroscopic (water absorbing). Feel free to Google it. You may wish to try a good biocide/ cetane booster like Diesel Kleen from Power Service. Hope that helps.
@michfloridaman not sure where your getting methanol from. methyl hydrate is what we use in the fuel industry and nothing works better as a anti gel or removing water. Even if it's in a frozen state. In you tractor you would ad 15/40 to the fuel for more BTU for better power and burn less fuel... we would use the oil from the oil change....... cheers 🍻
@@blackmax222 Correct, under pressure methyl hydrate is prefect for those applications in the fuel industry in pipeline transfers. Methyl hydrate is not soluble in fuel. Please reference SAE publications to see why this is an issue before replying.
@michfloridaman not thanks.. monkey see..... monkey do. -40 below in the fuel industry that is the only thing that worked every time. Interesting enough. Today, I own my own research and development company, but as always, to each there own.
As a firearm collector we have this issue in our storage areas. Not as much water as a boat but you can see how rust on a 250,000.00 shot gun is a bad investment. If in a pinch use rice. this would not be a good use of food but it works.
Great tips...very timely as well as we recently sold our 1984 Hunter 31 which we loved for the past 23 years (which had a bone dry bilge...0 water) and purchased a 1983 CS33 with a keel stepped mast. We just put it to bed for the winter and can see we are going to have some challenges with the bilge as when it rains we get water in the bilge - which I think is coming from the mast. The joys of figuring out a new boat! 😁 Cheers Mike
I have a keel stepped mast as well. Install exit blocks in the mast or at least those little hoods that you see on some masts. The exit blocks if designed and installed correctly will not only ensure zero chafe, they will keep the water out as well.
We bought electric air dehumifier for this season and it has been one of the best things we have bought for our boat. Basically zero problems with moisture after that.
I have been using the H2Out canisters and the fuel vent dryer for 11 years now. Good products.
Using an hvac filter dryer on the tank vent line has worked a treat over the years. Drying in the oven once a year brings in back to life.
Tim, will definitely install a H2out filter on my vent line. To completely drain my bilge I wired in a peristaltic pump which sucks up every last drop of water. I just run the discharge tubing into the sink when I find any residual water, usually after heavy rain.
Great timing Tim. Been working on that exact issue all week here on the Tennessee River. As a former hvacr guy I'm totally trying that fridge trick you recommended. Here's a few I've learned in my 4 years as a sailor so far and my 1st as a liveaboard.
Tip 1: Below 60F, without heat or a dehumidifier your ceiling is wet, there's no way around that impass. It's dripping on your cups, clothes, bedding, whatever is below it every morning. Crack your sealed cubbies and closets (I recently louvered a few to avoid this) and place moisture absorbing devices in them; which are cheaper at Walmart / Amazon (refillable) and dollar tree (single use) for us brokies. I personally refill, and have them where advised including my lazarette.
Tip 2: Bilge emptying is critical and made easier with a portable hand held transfer pump you can drain into a bucket. Harbor Frieght carries a battery operated one for $13 I use for my dinghy and occasionally my sailboat. I have exposed keel bolts so this is a must beyond humidity control. Recommend Seaflo anything, so if you can afford it, get the system in the video, I'm sure it's worth it.
Tip 3: Permanently mounted / wired fans to circulate air should be considered mandatory equipment in use at almost all times of the day or night above 70 percent humidity.
Tip 4: Consider humidity percentage monitoring essential to your comfort and dryness. When you understand when and where trouble conditions exist you can take steps to address it.
*Food for thought fella's: WiFi / Bluetooth monitoring / running of marine systems are becoming cheaper every year I tech. It's becoming a bigger request from my clients of more modest incomes. My client last week fired up his houseboat heat from his phone in the Chevy on the way to his slip for example. The Mrs was greatful. 😅
All good points. Hello from Lake Guntersville
Aboard our Catalina 425 we installed a PSS shaft seal and can maintain a bone dry bilge most of the season. This makes it very easy to determine e the source of any leak (fresh or salt). We get into a moisture battle in fall and spring when we winter in the water (near Boston) as the hull sweats with the temperature swings. Keeping a heater going, running a dehumidifier draining to the sink, and fans on mechanical timers as well as DampRid desiccants seems to keep us dry and mold free.
On my last two boats, on 41 and one 42 foot, I installed a low power draw squirrel cage blower in the engine compartment. It completely eliminates all odors from the boat. It also helps rid the boat of excess humidity. The engine block would be constantly coated with condensation until I installed the ventilator. It has been running constantly for the last 12 years. Draws about an amp or so.
Been using those H2out canisters in my gun safe for years. They work like a champion. Toss em in the oven at 350 degrees for an hour or 2 to recharge them once every couple of months.
Brilliant! Thank you. I’ve been sailing for 55 years and I didn’t know about the first or last product. I really appreciate your advice. We watch you every week and watch Lady K too!
Tim, if you talk about products, having a link to them in the notes would be helpful. Great video!
I like that dry bilge idea. Might put that on the long list
I would suggest using the "obvious" at dock ..a dehumidifier. Mine is a 50 liter size and is on a timer, 6 hours per day. Its amazing how much water it sucks out of the air. No mold as a result .
I have been living permanently on my 38-foot ketch (Contest 38s) for three years now. One year in the Netherlands and now two years in the Azores. So, very humid regions. The only measure against humidity in the ship is evacuation! Everything else is gimmicky and ineffective. I use a dehumidifier for this, namely the MEACO DDL8. Highly efficient (often 3 liters per day). By the highest setting (650 watts), I can even dry my laundry overnight in the shower, with the door closed. It is equipped with an automatic humidity sensor and switches itself on and off automatically. There is nothing better. And the bilge is also bone dry. - And as a side effect, this device also pleasantly warms my three rooms in cool times.
I will try that filter. I keep a dehumidifier running 24/7 when my boat is in the slip. Humidity in my boat is typically around 45-50%. Outside it’s generally in the 90’s. My bilge is dry. The air is fresh. Nothing is damp.
We have the canister dry item and use it in our fridge often. It works great! Looks to have been in the boat for a while and we've owned it for 5 years.
Boating in the Pacific Northwest over the past 40 years I've learned that nothing beats a mechanical type dehumidifier for keeping the interior dry and smelling sweet. I've used the small room models over the years. Obviously, not during the summer when I'm using the boat, and I don't live aboard, so the dehumidifier is brought aboard in fall runs on automatic when not aboard. When first started up in the early fall I get a bucket (22 pints) within a few days. Then, as the interior materials dry, a bucket a week until everything dries out and then it's a bucket every few weeks. The Peltier type units also work, but not nearly as effectively as the old style compressor type. Some of my clients have theirs set up to drain into the galley sink, continuous operation with no bucket to dump. I like to know how much water I'm deleting.
Great video Tim!
I love these ideas!!!
Keep them coming!
I have been adding Dynamo kitchen soap to my bilge for 52 years. It prevents gooey buildup, smells like Jujubes, and was one of the first biodegradable products back then, and helps rally pump out the bilge. Up in Maine over the years, the cold water and daytime air allowed a lot od condensation. I highly recommend it.
I saw a suggestion somewhere to put a valve somewhere in the tank vent hose. This would islolate the tank from the outside humidity. Just have to remember to open it before getting underway!
I made a vent drier out of PVC pipe filled with recondition able drierite. Works great to stop microbial growth in diesel even without additives.
Like you keep saying “keep the water on the outside of the boat”, I would use any and all means possible to keep the inside as dry as possible, just for the comfort of dry clothes, but H2O free diesel seems like a no brainer. Thanks Tim 👍😎👍
what a great video on a huge problem
In my experience water in the bilge means there is/are leaks. My last boat, a mid 80s Catalina 36 had a wet bilge. After 2 years and finding around 20 or so leaks, ranging from deck hardware to flex in the full water tank breaking the seal in the inspection hatch and leaking, I eventually had a consistently dry bilge. So I think a wet bilge is an indicator of leaks and with perseverance can be made into a dry bilge. Even the drip from the packing gland on the shaft was eradicated by using a goretex stuffing material which stopped the drip with no detrimental effect on the prop shaft. My current boat, an 1986 Moody 47 had 6 inches of water in the bilge when I got her. So far I have isolated and sorted about 10 leak sources and the bilge is almost dry. I will find the remains leaks in due course and will have a dry bilge.
Not so with an Island Packet where the anchor locker drains into the wet bilge
I lived aboard for year (Catalina 36) and I had very few moisture problems, at least up in Maine anyway. If it was above 65° and not raining then all the hatches were open and with a forced air diesel heater (drawing outside and inside air) it blasted enough dry air into the cabin.
Only when I cruised down south did I start to get any form of routine dampness aboard. But again airflow solved that to a great extent except for the little draws next to the hanging locker outside the head, the bottom two could get a little damp but tossing a few desiccant cans in there did the trick, bake the cans once a month and hey presto good to go again.
I do strongly second the fuel vent dryer/filter though especially in damp climates with temperature swings. Cool damp air gets sucked in at night then condenses in the morning when things warm back up. Wash rinse repeat enough times and boom wet fuel.
I'd like to see a video or article comparing brands of wet exhaust hoses.
Great tips! Thanks Tim! Stay safe out there!
To avoid condensation in a boat, you need ventilation. I had a lot of condensation in my 46 foot sailboat. but all the condensation disappeared after I put two solar valves in. I made several holes in all bulkheads so that the air does not stand still but has a steady exchange when the solar fans are running. After that I have no problem with condensation😊
Of course ventilation is good. But if the relative humidity outside is higher than inside, it won't help you at all. On the contrary, the humidity inside MUST be evacuated. The volume in my ship is about 65 m3 and I can only keep it dry with an electric device, as mentioned before.
I had a 35’sailboat for many years , we used to place those closet, dry bags that take moisture out of the air in our boats closets, and that make them for draws and flat services, very cheap,at DIY stores , also cleaned and painted my bilge ! I would add toilet tank cleaner to the bilge that stops all growth and there is no smell , even the sea water looked great ! When at dock on those cool nights I would have a small heater running all the time , I was designed to run continuously, there was no moisture in the boat and it was nice and toasty . All very inexpensive and worked great , on the hook we would run the diesel engine for hot water for showers and cleanup then open the engine covers , the heat from the engine after running would warm up the boat Surprisingly !
Quick air drying trick for a damp boat while aboard. Heat the boat with the vented cabin heater until it is comfortably warm. Keep hatches closed. Moisture is picked up by the warm air and condensation droplets on cold surfaces disappear as they are absorbed. After an appropriate time, open the hatches and allow the drier outside air to flow freely throughout the cabin. In just a few minutes close the wide open hatches and enjoy a much drier boat. The previous warmth in all the interior surfaces quickly brings the temperature back to comfort level.
We have had the Seaflo Dry Bilge system for several years. It generally works well. My two biggest complaints would be that it is extremely hard to program, much less see when if you have the controller installed somewhere discreet. Secondly, the sponges are very small and get clogged very quickly requiring replacements. (Your test clip seems to use tap water)
My digital thermometers usually read about 60% humidity at dock in Oxnard, Southern California (desert adjacent... so it'll probably be higher in other places.) I first put my clothes in plastic bins I got at Target, but they got boat stinky. So I made a bunch of really cheap dry bags the the bins sit inside of. Everything is white so it's easy to open them and look in to find something.
When we sailed across the Pacific we had four or five straight days off Vancouver Island in dense fog. Everything was streaming water. All of my clothes including those stuffed tightly in a sealed hatch got damp and mildewy. I had spare dry bags in my duffle.. but stupidly didn't stow any of my clothes in them.
I think I'll get one of the AVD Fuel Guards. A fuel tank is a contained volume so it's not like running a dehumidifier with a hatch open
I use an ecorpro dh1200 dehumidifier. It is a great system to keep things dry for extended periods when the boat sits unattended in the marina.
I just run a dehumidifier 24/7 on shore power. If I were gonna go cruising I'd pick up a few of those canisters.
Another good video Tim. Thanks!
I bet you could take that filter part when it's absorbed all that it can. Empty the beads onto a baking sheet and dehydrate them in the oven or in a dehydrator. They are likely to be the same thing as those little moisture packets you always see. Those can be reused through the same process.
Water inside the boat in the bilge....I stopped accepting that a few decades ago when I went from wooden boats to fiberglass. With great difficulty we have chased down small and large leaks. It is very nice to have it completely dry so that you can detect when something bad happens. You avoid unpleasant smelly stuff and can vacuum away rubbish. It is not easy to achieve, however, it is useful. We have found small cracks and very small leaks in unexpected places that no one bothered about for many years. To keep the air dry we have successfully used electric dehumidifiers when appropriate and calcium chloride as the passive option. Where I live, I buy calcium chloride cheaply in 25 kg sacks where the farmers shop.
Great tips.
Thanks! This is awesome!
I am absolutely loving these short tidbit super helpful videos. So much good information is being shared. Thank you Tim! (And Practical Sailor)
Another sources of water in a diesl fuel tank is a bad o-ring/seal on the deck fill cap. Water from rain / washing the boat leaks past the seal into the tank.
"What do you think?" I think I'm going shopping. My bilge sump hasn't been dry in years. And there's a spot, as my boat sits on the hard, that's collecting water that doesn't drain to the sump, (maybe the boat isn't quite level?), it smells bad, and the dry bilge system might help with that, too. As I say, I'm going to go shopping.....
Adding this tip to my sailing file. What about dehumidifiers?
What about a stand alone electric dehumidifier? Is it going to dry the bilge? I know it's energy consuming though.
Thank you.
Nigel is barking up the wrong tree. Most diesel fuel seawater contamination comes from flush filler valves on deck. Boat water holds have the same scheme. How does this happen? Answ: It doesn't matter. It happens. Disconnect the fuel fillers on deck....and the water filler, and carry liquids below or fill another way. Tank vents get run the same way. Nigel's vent? It's bad. Not really, but it's a distraction. That's a golden way to perpetuate problems. I hoped we could think about boat plumbing, like cooling water and water cooled refrigeration, that are dopey schemes. I homemade a dripless propeller shaft seal. Now that's a dry scheme. There's one more thing. Dry isn't good enough. When you get your boat dry, wash away the salt residue with fresh water routinely. Your bilge dry gadget is nice.
I wonder what happens to that tank vent dehumidifier when filling up. Diesel foams, at my tank it is filling up with diesel because of the high air flow at that moment. Will it keep on doing its job?
Is H2Out available in EU?
I've heard of anti-condensation paint, though I don't know if it would help at all on the ocean.
Silica gel?
I have always had problems with the non-return valve used in conjunction with the bilge pump allowing water to return to the bilge after the pump stops. Having spent extra money on an electrical sensor system rather than the conventional float switch, this runs for so many seconds after the water has been pumped out, only to see the water seep back in. Hull shape dictates that there will always be water in the line, so unless there is a better type of non-return valve that's impervious to contaminants in the bilge I'm stuck with this problem.
Get salt bag based systems, just make sure the water collector is emptied regularly and does not tip over, because then you have the severely corrosive solution attacking metal parts. Silica gel bags should also work and are cheap as f
Seems like many people try a dehumidifier and that's my plan
Some kitty litter is made of silica gel.
Fill an sock with some and put in your locker.
Put it out in the sun occasionally to drive off the moisture, then replace it.
I think that rigging a DIY dry bilge.system is cheap and easy.
For closets etc. sthey make a rechargeable dessicant dehumidier called "EVA-Dry". An indicator turns pink when it needs to be recharged, then youu plug it into a 120vac outlet overnight and an internal heater drives the moisture out. I use these on my photo /electronics gear when they are stored. Also, clothes in large ziplock bags with these to prevent mold. Two sizes, the -500 is larger. You-tube link: ruclips.net/video/6lQAhgOeTqw/видео.html
The dry bilge system?? What kind of VOODOO is this???
One small fan left on low will keep everything dry.
epoxy pour your keel bolts next time you have her in the yard
When I lived on my boat in the PNW I had lots of condensation even though my boat was comparatively well insulated. I had double pain windows, 1.5” thick walls and deck and a dry bilge. The very act of living in the boat created the moisture. I cruise in Mexico now and thankfully condensation is in my past ( until I get back east)
Not available in the uk😢
Hi, for dry fuel the first task should be to replace and grease the diesel deck fill O ring each year. Most people do not replace any of their deck fill O rings. Secondly my Catalina 36 has a dry bilge because I have an Arid Bilge System that again uses pads and a vacuum system on a timer to keep the bilge dry.
Our Nigel Calder did not write Einstein's Universe....the other Nigel Calder did....
I sponge my bilge dry. I use a hand pump into a bucket then sponge the rest of the way. Where does the little hose go on this system. To the sink? Looks like a pain to run the small hose. This isn’t going to work good.
Word
Jesus christ you have lost weight, I hope it's in a good way, all the best from portlaoise Ireland Sean
Thanks!! 🙏 It is good 👍
@@practical-sailor good, glad to hear it, you had me worried for a minute, remember all things in moderation,
Hey buddy love your show. If you're worried about water in the fuel tank just add a little bit of methyl hydrate. Moisture is gone.
Ps diesels love a little bit of transmission fluid in the fuel cell as conditioner
Cheers
Right there with you on the ATF as diesel fuel conditioner. The old farm / construction guys swear by filling their filters at replacement on em. However the science doesn't support your conclusions on methanol. Which I'm sure you meant as methyl hydrate isn't soluble in any fuel and is meant to be under pressure (think propane) to work. Methanol is actually corrosive and hydroscopic (water absorbing). Feel free to Google it. You may wish to try a good biocide/ cetane booster like Diesel Kleen from Power Service. Hope that helps.
@michfloridaman not sure where your getting methanol from. methyl hydrate is what we use in the fuel industry and nothing works better as a anti gel or removing water. Even if it's in a frozen state. In you tractor you would ad 15/40 to the fuel for more BTU for better power and burn less fuel... we would use the oil from the oil change....... cheers 🍻
@@blackmax222 Correct, under pressure methyl hydrate is prefect for those applications in the fuel industry in pipeline transfers. Methyl hydrate is not soluble in fuel. Please reference SAE publications to see why this is an issue before replying.
@michfloridaman not thanks.. monkey see..... monkey do. -40 below in the fuel industry that is the only thing that worked every time. Interesting enough. Today, I own my own research and development company, but as always, to each there own.
As a firearm collector we have this issue in our storage areas. Not as much water as a boat but you can see how rust on a 250,000.00 shot gun is a bad investment. If in a pinch use rice. this would not be a good use of food but it works.
What the hell is the self selling back drop you are grand standing against? Hard pass on this channel.
Great tips...very timely as well as we recently sold our 1984 Hunter 31 which we loved for the past 23 years (which had a bone dry bilge...0 water) and purchased a 1983 CS33 with a keel stepped mast. We just put it to bed for the winter and can see we are going to have some challenges with the bilge as when it rains we get water in the bilge - which I think is coming from the mast. The joys of figuring out a new boat! 😁
Cheers
Mike
I have a keel stepped mast as well. Install exit blocks in the mast or at least those little hoods that you see on some masts. The exit blocks if designed and installed correctly will not only ensure zero chafe, they will keep the water out as well.
@timothyrepp4259 thanks for the tip...will definitely give it a shot!
Cheers
Mike