Woodworking For Beginners | How to Master the Jointer
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- Опубликовано: 20 ноя 2023
- In this video Rob Cosman shows you how to set - up and properly use the jointer.
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Learn how to make Rob's jointer push blocks here: ruclips.net/video/cyyZ6NlnxcY/видео.html
Please run the audio through a compressor before uploading - Rob can hardly be understood here.
I do like Rob's style of teaching, he shows us what he's talking about and he uses plain simple English which most of us use every day, he does not try to talk down to us!!
Great clip. Bought a jointer two weeks ago and you answered a lot of my questions.
Nice job Rob..Thanks for emphasizing the safety aspect. My dad was injured just after I was born in the planer mill where he worked on a jointer. I watched him suffer always due to that injury.
Very helpful Rob, thank you! I've inherited my dads jointer but knowing he lost the ends of three fingers in it has made me have a healthy respect for it and a wish to learn how to use it properly and safely! Cutting corners costs more than just cutting wood!!
I have a lot of respect for the jointer. I ground down my pinky finger on my left hand past the second knuckle in high school shop class.
Groovy basic lesson Rob. Sets us up for an advanced class, one I haven't seen from any of the usual sources. You could go into finer detail about ways to get a spring joint, the relationship of the outfeed table to the cutting circle, how little tiny nicks leave whiskers that affect that relationship, honing in between knife changes, and even changing knives. You are the boss wid da hot sauce, and the very man for the job!
Nice video Rob. Best one on the internet! Very helpful.
What you just shared with us is exactly what my High School woodshop teacher showed me some 50 years ago. Some things don't need to change.
It makes no sense... how do you flatten a board pushing it down on the outfeed table? The amount of force required to push the material on the outfeed side would almost always be enough force to force any cupping in the material flat onto the bed, you would just be removing material and not the cup in the board! You push from the infeed table for as long as you can.... that's why the infeed table is always longer than the outfeed table.
@@tableshaper4076 the outfeed side has already been flattened so the board has more contact area on the jointer, giving you a wider and flatter reference face. Putting pressure on the infeed side, where the board has more cup since it hasn't been cut, would result in the pushing force flattening the cup more than the outfeed side.
@@owenwagner9017No. You are assuming that a single pass will flatten the board. Also you don't feed the material from the middle you feed from the end so you aren't pushing down on the material on either side of the cutter. If you were meant to feed from the out feed table they would have manufactured the out feed table longer than the in feed but they didn't. I wish I had a large youtube channel, I would put out a simple challenge. Flatten a 8' long 2" wide 3/4" thick, cupped board from the out feed side. Send me a vid if you can do it, I will humbly apologize. BTW, yes I can do it from the in feed no problem, making face frames or fillers, this is a basic ask in a real shop.
@@tableshaper4076 Ok. I'll keep using the outfeed side though since it's how the machine was designed.
@@owenwagner9017 Good luck with that, no doubt rustic bird houses have a market too.
Great post!! I love these tips.
Glad you like them!
Greetings from the BIG SKY. Good information on my planer/jointer. Mine has always been set at 90 degrees, too.
Even more pearls of wisdom. As always, thank you for sharing 🌞
You are so welcome
Good Video Rob!!!
Thanks for watching
Thank You from Germany!
You're welcome from Canada!
All good points, but a slightly different take than some professional furniture makers who suggest flattening the first face, moving to the thickness planer for the opposite face, then back to the jointer for the edge planing. Doing so would provide the worker the additional flexibility of deciding grain direction. Common practice is to joint into rising grain direction while on the thickness planer into the grain in a downward direction in order to prevent tear out. 👍
great video
Thanks!
thanks
Great advice. 1 thing I've found however, is that once the piece is longer then the jointer in-feed table, your advice is on doing the edge is reversed. You want to flip the board so that the curve is up like a smile. Establish a flat spot in the middle and then work that to the ends. If you have it the other way the board will ride against the in-feed table and start to raise it up off the out-feed. If you keep doing this, by the time you do finally get it flat.... it'll make a board that's got an aggressive taper to it from end to end. Even if the grain still looked ok, i've found that by the time you put it through the table saw, you've used up too much and don't get the max board width you could have.
Clean and wax the top. Do it to all your tools. Mag wheel polish works great, or rubbing compound. Even brand new from the box it is dirty. Then a coat of paste wax. You will be amazed the difference.
While blades are not the topic du jour, clean them as well. Especially if working with pine or plywood. Pine is full of resin that builds up in teeth, and plywood is full of glue. You will think its dull when its just dirty.
very nice work im a carpenter Iam from Morocco thank you for video my friend 👍😊👷
Awesome! Thank you! Luther was just on a cruise that was supposed to dock in Morocco but that port got cancelled at the last minute. He could have visited!!!!
Once again, my friend, you are welcome anytime in Morocco.😊👍 I applied to work in Canada in the same field, wood carpentry, but I was unsuccessful. What do you advise me, my friend? Thank you
Hmm, totally agree. I have so often argued with even advanced woodworkers that the pressure on the stock should change from the in feed to the out feed. Agreed about the width too. I have a 4" an 8" and a 12". On the 12, I have a pretty hefty power puller. Makes a very nice straight board with no "stop and start" marks. One tip I might add is for longer boards that are warped. You say to do the concave side rather than the convex side. I agree totally, however I'd add that for longer boards, that have significant warp, with the board being longer than the in feed table especially, then I start from one end, then switch to the other end on the next pass. I do that a couple time, until I can finally make one complete pass that joints the board across the whole length, The reason is obvious to you, but, just to be clear, it leaves a bit more board than if I did it with the same end forward each time.
I'm joining the ones arguing with you and yes I do this for a living. How do you take a cup out of a board when the pressure to push the board through the cutter is on the outfeed side, all you are doing is pushing the cup out of the board and not jointing it out! Why are the infeed tables ALWAYS longer than the outfeed????? This blows my mind!
Hi Rob, great video!
Is there a reason why your outside most cutter on the "helical" head is positioned perpendicular to the fence and not at an angle like the rest of them? The "seat" for that cutter seems to be angled just like the rest of them but somehow the cutter is straight.
That's for rabbeting.
I got one I bought from my boss n played with it once or twice but still have yet to break it down, clean it up, n set it up nice n square n really get to dimension precisely
Hmm I'd hoped to see you cover tips for longer boards that are longer than your jointer's infeed table - hard to joint them square and straight when the board hangs over at one end.
You need support on both the in and outfeed sides for longer stock. Roller stands work well. Make sure on the infeed side it is set slightly lower than your infeed table and use a helper if possible.
I literally just commented about long pieces. As stated, roller stands are good. But you've also got to flip the board over so that the curves go opposite of Rob's advice in this video. He is absolutely correct in how he did it with short pieces. With long stuff however you need to make sure that the board "smiles" with the curve going up instead of "frowning". If it frowns, the board will ride against the in-feed and lift it off the out feed. If you get it to smile, you can establish a flat spot in the middle and work it towards the ends to get it perfect. My first job was in a millwork shop and even with a 16 inch jointer, the door stiles were always longer then the bed. I had to get good at flattening them and maximizing the material left. Boss's dont want to buy 9/4 material for an 1 3/4" door... hahaha
Good video and very timely for me, I just got a new jointer at an estate sale. The first thing I do is assume the previous owner was an idiot. I downloaded the manual and re-setup my jointer. The big issue was the motor was coming lose from its mount and was supported by the belt and one bolt. With a new belt and new bolts and washers it works great. I also never cut an angle different than 90. I’ve been bitten by my table saw, but nothing scares me more than those spinning jointer teeth.
Yep, they demand respect!
Oh my God! I looked up jointer accidents on the web. Just curious I guess. It’s not for the squeamish! 😱😱😱@@RobCosmanWoodworking
This is a worthy project for any to-do list, on the flipside, have you seen some of the curious projects in Woody Hyezmar’s Woodworking Bible? Try go’gling his latest stuff before he publishes it.
Due to space constraints I only have a 6 inch jointer, though with most furniture sized pieces that works just fine. But for wider pieces, do you recommend a planer sled and wedges to flatten one face or just a hand plane?
I have a small shop as well and also have a benchtop 6 inch jointer. I recently just built an adjustable planer sled and it works wonders with wide boards but if its an agreeable and easy to work type of lumber, ill just hand plane it. Heres a link to the planer sled: ruclips.net/video/7spWHTkTH5Y/видео.html
I made some modifications to it and its easy enough to hang it on the wall for storage
I wish you would have drawn pencil lines across the face of the board to make it much easier to see what areas are being cut off.
Sir i don't know much about holidays in Canada, but if you do celebrate Thanksgiving i hope you and you family have a great day
We have ours in October but we’re celebrating yours as well, always room for another feast!
I have a 40 year old craftsman jointer ( 6 inch). Do you think it would be cost effective to switch over to a segmented cutter head?
Did that board have leading snip? @6:49 looks to be a line on the board 3ish inches in from the front.
No. I have such a fine cut it prevents snipe
Rob, so what about combination machines like the Grizzly G0958 where shop space and finances are criteria?
if you absolutely must save space then they could be nice. I have a Felder combo machine 16" wide jointer/planer even with such a high quality tool it still gets irritating switching it all the time.
Hi I need help. Using a spiral cutterhead jointer. When edge jointing there always seems to be a slight hump around the middle of the board. If I hold two jointed edges together for glue there is slight rocking about 1/32 as the hump is in the way. How can I fix this for seamless glue ups?
Check that both tables are parallel. Next, sounds like your outfeed table is too high. Too low would leave a snipe at the end, opposite, it doesn’t always bump the outfeed if the front edge of the table is a bit worn. O
Ha! The dust pile at the lathe!
The first tile cutter next to the guard is not set correctly it appears to be askew.
That's set that way for rabbeting. It's intentional and it is inline w the other cutters on the head.
Guard, not fence.
It’s French Canadian!
love your work, but I lost track of the rationale for the long hair...what's up with that? I am jealous, being bald
All due respect but I completely disagree with this technique. How do you flatten a board when you are pushing down the material on the outfeed table? Im my opinion, you push from the infeed table only. That is why the infeed table on jointers is always longer than the outfeed.
I agree. I’m learning and this is contrary to what I’ve heard. Did rob respond?
Responding now. Of the two surfaces, which is dealing strictly with flattened faces/edges? My method of jointing faces and edges is to use the already flattened surface to guide the remained of the cut. Assuming, or course, that there is reference being made on the outfeed that isn’t just taking the top off of a bad twist.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking
Ok. I’m not going to argue, you’re a pro and I’m a beginner, but I will say that it’s not often, here in the uk, that you will get a rough sawn board with no twist in it, so your video should then show how to deal with that too perhaps!? Cheers
That face and edge aren't square, guaranteed. If you're going to do an edge as well, you can't stop when only the edges of the board are flattened if the width of the board is taller than your fence. You'd need to keep passing the face over the jointer until the entire face has been touched by the cutter head. In the example shown here, the center of the board where it was contacting the fence was still concave with respect to the flattened edges.
Edit: Maybe I'm wrong and the entire surface was worked. It sure didn't look like it in the video though.
The entire face of the board was contacted by the jointer, the colour of the wood made it look like it was only touching on the outside edges.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for the clarification, Rob. It sure looked like only the edges were worked!
I'm sure the guy with 40+ years experience wouldn't have thought of that. We can always count on you tho 👍
You know me Rob I am 77 and still learning. I was proud of myself that I touch all the points you related to in the video. I am so tight that I always run the smallest clearance possible on my passes. Thank you for the video.
@@nmfam I *am* the guy with 40+ years of experience, for the record. What I was pointing out was for others who come along and watch this video, not for Rob himself. If I couldn't tell whether or not the jointer had touched the entire face, then younger people looking to this video for instruction certainly can't. Rob confirmed that the entire surface was worked, and that should have been the end of it. Your input wasn't needed. You should find better things to do with your time than look for an argument on the internet.