I set aside a whole day to check/adjust the knives on both planers. I have a 6" benchtop model and a 12" Grizzly. Both have the jackscrews. I was shown this process years ago and it works well. I also like to check the middle of the knives to check for any wear or bowing. I clamp a stop block to the table, perpendicular to the cutters, so the back of the test board is always registered at the same position. I start off knowing it can be a royal pain, so I take a cup of coffee, turn on the radio, get comfy on my shop stool and calmly get to work. I found this approach allows me to finish around noon and keeps my blood pressure in check. Haha. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks Rob! After spending the entire morning trying to set new knives in my antique beast delta with a magnet jig, I watched your video and had it cutting beautifully in an hour! Thanks again!
Rob- Genius! I worked at a wooden boat shop for a dozen years and was faced with the same task. Came up with the exact same cure. Woah be the employee who messed up the knives on my jointer or planer. Had a six inch old delta for about eight years, replaced by a new eight inch, and a 18” wood master ( if I remember correctly) that I would run the parallel wooden “ rail” under the cutter head to adjust. Glass smooth surfaces on eastern Western Red 😊cedar and pine. Not in that order though, cause the silica in cedar trashes the blades where even hardwood wouldn’t get a decent finish. Being as we built red cedar planked boats, I got really good at changing blades! This procedure, if followed, will work on any non-segmented head machine.
I tried this on my 6 inch with springs instead of adjusting screws and it worked well except that I also checked the knife heights in the middle and they were low. I discovered that the knives were bowed and ordered replacements. Since I inherited this machine I don't really know how much use it has seen or the history of it so the knives may just have been worn. As usual, great instructional video Rob.
Great way to set blades. Unexpected challenge with my old Delta 8” (made after Delta moved their manufacturing to China) was getting the gib screws out. The supplied wrench was metric, the machine screws, imperial. Wrench was close, but not close enough - started to round machine screws. Found an open-ended wrench, discovered it was too thick to fit in blade slot. Found another wrench that was thin enough. Removed screws. Needed to replace screws - not available. Found a source that knew that the screws had not changed for decades so I could use screws for older (made in USA) models, Those screws were still available. Success!
finally a description that makes sense and i know works. taught the same way when i trained by my old gaffer. with experience and a bit of luck you can get the job down to around 10 mins max. i have seen so many youtube wood working geniuses that have no idea what they are doing and saying things like "snipe is normal". its because the one thing they don't know is to adjust the outfeed.
Good timing! Just getting ready to reinstate my Jet 6" (hasn't been used in years, moved 500mi, etc.) and wasn't looking forward to setting the knives. I'll put my dial indicator back in the drawer. Thanks again for all you do!
Awesome video, Rob! Hands down the best explanation and easiest to understand video on set up. Great work. Do you have a video on leveling and setting the in feed and out feed tables?
Mr. Cosman. Thank you, thank you, thank you. What a GREAT Tutorial on your General 16" Jointer. I have a Porter 16" Jointer, (even the same fence setup, and 3 phase motor). It does have the additional metal Oil Bath double row metal containers in the front though. Other than that, it has all the same, even down to the screw placement, as yours. It includes the "Porkchop" safety guard, and what appears to be exactly the same four knife cutter unit that your General uses. It is the Exact same type to learn from. Now I will follow your advice, instructions and finish putting the knifes back in the correct way. Thank you again. What a great job you do. Be well, and keep "Let's Get Working". Michael P.S. what grit do you sharpen Knifes to?
Another well explained and shown video. Since my old 1960s Rockwell 4" cabinet jointer does not have those setscrews, I spent a few dollars and got one of those magnetic jigs that hold the blade in position as you adjust and tighten the gib. Really not expensive at
you can use a thick piece of glass and strong magnets to hold the knifes flush to the table while you tighten them on those. its how i do my old rockwell 37-220. obly trouble on mine is not losing the grinded thin wrench. i always check afterward like Rob does with the stick trick. figured if it works on the handplanes to find where in too high it does too on a jointer. have to use all the tricks because vision starting to feel the mileage.
@@jeromegagnon3787 Agree on the thin wrench. Haha. I bought a cheaper set of extra thin wrenches for that use and some other needs around the shop (like adjusting casters and leveling feet nuts). Another $25 well spent.
i've been using this method for 30 years on my 1940's beaver 6" jointer. i use an aluminum straight edge, works great. i can change and reset my 3 knives in about 15 minutes. i always wished the beaver had those little jack screws under the knives
Terrific video Rob! I watched every second of this and was excited as the adjustments brought everything into alignment. I'm definitely going to use the same method to tune my jointer - and I'll make sure to practice the same patience, it's worth it to have those results. - Cheers!
Been in the trade 40 years, and that is how I change my 16"blades as well, though on mine it's a little trickier ss I have springs instead of those set screws. My 20" Wadkin thicknesser is easier though, it has a jig that screws into the spindle block. The springs then push the blades against the jig to the correct height. Nice clear instructional video as always
I like learning these techniques. Fortunately my jointer has a helical head. Never know when someone may need a helping hand on their jointer. Thanks for the lesson.
Changing and setting knives is intimidating and challenging. Your explanation is clear and gives me some courage to attempt that process!Almost! Lol!! Great video the detail and explanation always top notch. Thanks for sharing. Take care. 👍🏻
How do you know how much you should advance the block when setting the height. I saw somewhere else where they recommended between 1/8" and 1/4". You video looks more like 1 1/4" - 1 1/2". I have an old Craftsman 6" jointer model 113
This video really helped out.My distance of travel is not as much as yours.I HAVE A CRAFTSMAN 6 1/8. I think my distance of travel should be around 3/8 or 5mm. does this sound right ? also my out feed table is fixed
Yeah, you should have a shorter distance on your stick than what Rob had because he adjusted the height of his outfeed table last. Which means if he ran the check over again it would travel only a short bit.
Hi Rob, I have recently purchased an old Powermatic Model 100 and need to replace the knives. I currently cannot justify the spiral head upgrade, so am stuck with straight knives. Wondering if you will be doing a video on how to properly set up a planer similar to this? Thanks for all of your education!
Well there isn’t much to a helical cutter except making sure the out-feed table is even with the top of the cutting circle. If you are installing a helical after market, you must make sure the entire head is parallel with the out-feed table
So do you not need to do anything on the in feed table? I can't get mine to rotate without knives hitting my in feed table. And when I lower my in feed I have a elevation difference between the in feed and out feed of approx. 0.055". I thought maybe that was excessive? Restoring my dad's 6" Woodtek so I'm new to all this.
Not sure where I learned your system but it was my least favorite chore until MagnaSet came out in the 80's for both the planer and jointer and on my 24" Powermatic planer it went from an all-day job to a 1 1/2 - 2 hour job, now ALL my machines have segmented heads, even my pattern cutter on my shaper. The noise reduction alone makes them a game changer.
Great video, Rob. I have a 1940s 6" Delta model, and I sure do wish it had those adjustment screws. It's a little bit aggravating setting this tiny 6" knives without them.
Rob, I'm having a little difficulty with this concept. Obviously I must work because everybody says it does in the comments but intuitively, if the board is sitting flush on the outfeed table, at call it top dead center, the knife is lifting the bottom of the board off the outfeed table, wouldn't that mean that the knife cutting path is higher than the outfeed table and therefore you might expect snipe on the tail of the piece? In other words it would seem like the goal you would want it to be that the knife is just barely kissing the bottom surface of that board and that would mean then that the knife edge is coplaner with the surface of the out feed table which I would think would be the goal? I'm assuming I just misunderstanding the geometry of a jointer but I guess I'm basically just saying is the goal not to have the cutting path of the knife completely coplanar with the outfit table. And in this case, it can't be since it's picking up the wood off the outfeed table. Therefore it seems like if you're pushing the wood across that piece you're going to get material removal that you don't want? I'm sorry if this is impossible to follow
You didn’t show what you were looking for when you were testing to see if the outfeed table was at the correct height. Does the test block move, and if so, how much is good
I have an old Craftsman 6" jointer with a fixed outfeed table. I don't think your method will work for me. Do you have any suggestions on how to set the knives on this machine? I do have a magnetic set up fixture. Is that my only recourse?
If you outfeed table is fixed then you have to set you blades so they are parallel to the out feed table and the blade is the same height of the outfeed table. A real pain. Are you sure your outfeed table wont move
the magnetic jigs are helpful but not infallible. my advice would be to sell it and buy a table with an adjustable outfeed. if you can't adjust the outfeed it really is just a giant paperweight.
I have the same question and probably the same machine. I wonder how much the measuring board should move once the knives and out-feed table are set? Should they touch it and not move it? Should it move 1/8”? Etc. Be strong and courageous!
A cheap dial indicator on a magnetic base will help set the knifes to same height as fixed outfeed table. Simply zero out indicator to table base near edge next to knife, then move over knifes across bed until measurements on ends and.middle all match.This also can be used to set larger hand plane blades minus the 1st step.
Of course this procedure only works if you have a jointer with an adjustable outfeed table. Unfortunately, small desktop jointers tend not to have that feature or blade height adjusters.
Thank you for doing this video but you should think about your camera angle and how the camera operator moves. Because the operator for this video was terrible, moving too much right at the time it needed to be perfectly still and the angle sometimes resulted in poor lighting. Perhaps more than one camera for parts of the video using fixed angles with additional lighting. I know most people won't see any problems with the way this video was done but I had problems with being able to see some of the starting and ending points of the marks on the board due to too much movement. When a camera is moving even slightly there can be a small amount of blur before clearing up and this is what caused me problems.
I have an old Elu jointer and I used your same method to align the blades. I also watched this video that looks intersting. He uses springs to keep the blades up so he can align automatically them with two pieces of steel. What do you think? You think It is applicable to your jointer? This Is the video ruclips.net/video/BzsVSFhWdY8/видео.html
If you like this check out Rob's Woodworking Machines playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PLqUOljnY0d9cLQZ7igp6k1OT4SnAAB2qD
I set aside a whole day to check/adjust the knives on both planers. I have a 6" benchtop model and a 12" Grizzly. Both have the jackscrews. I was shown this process years ago and it works well. I also like to check the middle of the knives to check for any wear or bowing. I clamp a stop block to the table, perpendicular to the cutters, so the back of the test board is always registered at the same position. I start off knowing it can be a royal pain, so I take a cup of coffee, turn on the radio, get comfy on my shop stool and calmly get to work. I found this approach allows me to finish around noon and keeps my blood pressure in check. Haha. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks Rob! After spending the entire morning trying to set new knives in my antique beast delta with a magnet jig, I watched your video and had it cutting beautifully in an hour! Thanks again!
Rob- Genius! I worked at a wooden boat shop for a dozen years and was faced with the same task. Came up with the exact same cure. Woah be the employee who messed up the knives on my jointer or planer. Had a six inch old delta for about eight years, replaced by a new eight inch, and a 18” wood master ( if I remember correctly) that I would run the parallel wooden “ rail” under the cutter head to adjust. Glass smooth surfaces on eastern Western Red 😊cedar and pine. Not in that order though, cause the silica in cedar trashes the blades where even hardwood wouldn’t get a decent finish. Being as we built red cedar planked boats, I got really good at changing blades! This procedure, if followed, will work on any non-segmented head machine.
Yup, I bet you could set them fast. Hate to be the new guy who nicked your blades!
what a gem of a video, thanks so much, i just finished restoring a jointer and used this method to set the blades
Thanks I have putting this off. Now I feel more confident.
Go for it
I could have used this yesterday. I'm going to go back and check my work using this method. Thanks Rob. I really enjoy your videos.
I tried this on my 6 inch with springs instead of adjusting screws and it worked well except that I also checked the knife heights in the middle and they were low. I discovered that the knives were bowed and ordered replacements. Since I inherited this machine I don't really know how much use it has seen or the history of it so the knives may just have been worn. As usual, great instructional video Rob.
Great way to set blades. Unexpected challenge with my old Delta 8” (made after Delta moved their manufacturing to China) was getting the gib screws out. The supplied wrench was metric, the machine screws, imperial. Wrench was close, but not close enough - started to round machine screws. Found an open-ended wrench, discovered it was too thick to fit in blade slot. Found another wrench that was thin enough. Removed screws. Needed to replace screws - not available. Found a source that knew that the screws had not changed for decades so I could use screws for older (made in USA) models, Those screws were still available. Success!
What a pain in the butt
I wish I would have seen this 40 years ago!! Great video Rob.
finally a description that makes sense and i know works. taught the same way when i trained by my old gaffer. with experience and a bit of luck you can get the job down to around 10 mins max. i have seen so many youtube wood working geniuses that have no idea what they are doing and saying things like "snipe is normal". its because the one thing they don't know is to adjust the outfeed.
Well said
Of coarse it’s my turn to do this set up on an old Grizzly, thanks for the tips. Now to watch your sharpening video.
Chuck
Perfect timing since tomorrow I have to do set up on an 8 inch joiner. Oddly enough, also a general
Well there you ate
Good timing! Just getting ready to reinstate my Jet 6" (hasn't been used in years, moved 500mi, etc.) and wasn't looking forward to setting the knives. I'll put my dial indicator back in the drawer. Thanks again for all you do!
No dial caliper needed.
Awesome video, Rob! Hands down the best explanation and easiest to understand video on set up. Great work.
Do you have a video on leveling and setting the in feed and out feed tables?
thank you for making this video. I have been procrastinating replacing my jointer blades. Now at least I have a good resource to follow..
Go for it
Mr. Cosman. Thank you, thank you, thank you. What a GREAT Tutorial on your General 16" Jointer. I have a Porter 16" Jointer, (even the same fence setup, and 3 phase motor). It does have the additional metal Oil Bath double row metal containers in the front though. Other than that, it has all the same, even down to the screw placement, as yours. It includes the "Porkchop" safety guard, and what appears to be exactly the same four knife cutter unit that your General uses. It is the Exact same type to learn from. Now I will follow your advice, instructions and finish putting the knifes back in the correct way. Thank you again. What a great job you do. Be well, and keep "Let's Get Working". Michael P.S. what grit do you sharpen Knifes to?
Another well explained and shown video. Since my old 1960s Rockwell 4" cabinet jointer does not have those setscrews, I spent a few dollars and got one of those magnetic jigs that hold the blade in position as you adjust and tighten the gib. Really not expensive at
When you need to joint a wider board do it by hand
you can use a thick piece of glass and strong magnets to hold the knifes flush to the table while you tighten them on those. its how i do my old rockwell 37-220. obly trouble on mine is not losing the grinded thin wrench.
i always check afterward like Rob does with the stick trick. figured if it works on the handplanes to find where in too high it does too on a jointer. have to use all the tricks because vision starting to feel the mileage.
@@jeromegagnon3787 Agree on the thin wrench. Haha. I bought a cheaper set of extra thin wrenches for that use and some other needs around the shop (like adjusting casters and leveling feet nuts). Another $25 well spent.
A precious help you gave me with this tuning method. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful
That a clever way to set the knives no measuring just two visual marks. Love the
birds eyes maple gauge. Thank You
Easy and more accurate than any jig I have seen
i've been using this method for 30 years on my 1940's beaver 6" jointer. i use an aluminum straight edge, works great. i can change and reset my 3 knives in about 15 minutes. i always wished the beaver had those little jack screws under the knives
Yes they ste very helpful
Terrific video Rob! I watched every second of this and was excited as the adjustments brought everything into alignment. I'm definitely going to use the same method to tune my jointer - and I'll make sure to practice the same patience, it's worth it to have those results. - Cheers!
Mr Rob, please do a video about setting thickness planer knives! it's much more difficult but people must know how to!
Bob Vaughn did one thirty years ago that is perfect.
ruclips.net/video/uSM7Jrg34a8/видео.html
I will tell Luther
Been in the trade 40 years, and that is how I change my 16"blades as well, though on mine it's a little trickier ss I have springs instead of those set screws.
My 20" Wadkin thicknesser is easier though, it has a jig that screws into the spindle block. The springs then push the blades against the jig to the correct height.
Nice clear instructional video as always
Wadkin does a great job on their machines
I like learning these techniques.
Fortunately my jointer has a helical head. Never know when someone may need a helping hand on their jointer.
Thanks for the lesson.
You bet
Great explanation of kow to do it the job without fancy gear.
No need to buy any jigs
Changing and setting knives is intimidating and challenging. Your explanation is clear and gives me some courage to attempt that process!Almost! Lol!! Great video the detail and explanation always top notch. Thanks for sharing. Take care. 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and commenting
How do you know how much you should advance the block when setting the height. I saw somewhere else where they recommended between 1/8" and 1/4". You video looks more like 1 1/4" - 1 1/2". I have an old Craftsman 6" jointer model 113
Beautiful work. Thanks.
This video really helped out.My distance of travel is not as much as yours.I HAVE A CRAFTSMAN 6 1/8. I think my distance of travel should be around 3/8 or 5mm. does this sound right ? also my out feed table is fixed
Yeah, you should have a shorter distance on your stick than what Rob had because he adjusted the height of his outfeed table last. Which means if he ran the check over again it would travel only a short bit.
Awesome method thank you for sharing
Its easy
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Thanks for watching
Hi Rob, I have recently purchased an old Powermatic Model 100 and need to replace the knives. I currently cannot justify the spiral head upgrade, so am stuck with straight knives. Wondering if you will be doing a video on how to properly set up a planer similar to this? Thanks for all of your education!
Thank you Rob.
You bet
Thanks, great explanation.
Thanks for watching
Great video Rob, do you mind doing a video on setting the two beds in co planer? Cheers from Australia.
I will tell Luther your tequest
Wow !! Just wow !!
Great explanation and demonstration, Rob. I find this basic technique to be superior to magnetic jigs and other "trends."
I agree. The big issue is how your machine allows you to move the blades
That was great do you think you could show the procedure for setting up a spiral cutter and what’s the best depth of cut thanks
Well there isn’t much to a helical cutter except making sure the out-feed table is even with the top of the cutting circle. If you are installing a helical after market, you must make sure the entire head is parallel with the out-feed table
So helpful. Thank you for sharing 🌞
You are so welcome!
So do you not need to do anything on the in feed table? I can't get mine to rotate without knives hitting my in feed table. And when I lower my in feed I have a elevation difference between the in feed and out feed of approx. 0.055". I thought maybe that was excessive? Restoring my dad's 6" Woodtek so I'm new to all this.
Not sure where I learned your system but it was my least favorite chore until MagnaSet came out in the 80's for both the planer and jointer and on my 24" Powermatic planer it went from an all-day job to a 1 1/2 - 2 hour job, now ALL my machines have segmented heads, even my pattern cutter on my shaper. The noise reduction alone makes them a game changer.
Helical heads are THE way to go. All but my 16” jointer I have replaced with helical heads
Great video, Rob. I have a 1940s 6" Delta model, and I sure do wish it had those adjustment screws. It's a little bit aggravating setting this tiny 6" knives without them.
Yup. You need to tighten the gib the with a piece of wood , tap down the knives
Ive found that flat magnets work pretty well for setting the blades all the same height. Just my experience with my 1951 beaver jointer.
Rob, I'm having a little difficulty with this concept. Obviously I must work because everybody says it does in the comments but intuitively, if the board is sitting flush on the outfeed table, at call it top dead center, the knife is lifting the bottom of the board off the outfeed table, wouldn't that mean that the knife cutting path is higher than the outfeed table and therefore you might expect snipe on the tail of the piece? In other words it would seem like the goal you would want it to be that the knife is just barely kissing the bottom surface of that board and that would mean then that the knife edge is coplaner with the surface of the out feed table which I would think would be the goal?
I'm assuming I just misunderstanding the geometry of a jointer but I guess I'm basically just saying is the goal not to have the cutting path of the knife completely coplanar with the outfit table. And in this case, it can't be since it's picking up the wood off the outfeed table. Therefore it seems like if you're pushing the wood across that piece you're going to get material removal that you don't want? I'm sorry if this is impossible to follow
Never mind, I didn't watch to the end lol
thank you very much. 10/10
You didn’t show what you were looking for when you were testing to see if the outfeed table was at the correct height. Does the test block move, and if so, how much is good
I have an old Craftsman 6" jointer with a fixed outfeed table. I don't think your method will work for me. Do you have any suggestions on how to set the knives on this machine? I do have a magnetic set up fixture. Is that my only recourse?
If you outfeed table is fixed then you have to set you blades so they are parallel to the out feed table and the blade is the same height of the outfeed table. A real pain. Are you sure your outfeed table wont move
the magnetic jigs are helpful but not infallible. my advice would be to sell it and buy a table with an adjustable outfeed. if you can't adjust the outfeed it really is just a giant paperweight.
I have the same question and probably the same machine. I wonder how much the measuring board should move once the knives and out-feed table are set? Should they touch it and not move it? Should it move 1/8”? Etc.
Be strong and courageous!
A cheap dial indicator on a magnetic base will help set the knifes to same height as fixed outfeed table.
Simply zero out indicator to table base near edge next to knife, then move over knifes across bed until measurements on ends and.middle all match.This also can be used to set larger hand plane blades minus the 1st step.
Silly question. How often do you check this?
Not silly. When you resharpen blades or when you notice scalloping on boards you are jointing.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking scalloping?
hope you turned off the power...! Do you believe in ceramic magnets to hold the blade flush with the outfeed table?
Yes power is off. I don’t need to do that with my method
Thank you
You bet
Of course this procedure only works if you have a jointer with an adjustable outfeed table. Unfortunately, small desktop jointers tend not to have that feature or blade height adjusters.
Oh hell no! Glad my jointer and planer have carbide inserts.
I know, right!
Thank you for doing this video but you should think about your camera angle and how the camera operator moves. Because the operator for this video was terrible, moving too much right at the time it needed to be perfectly still and the angle sometimes resulted in poor lighting. Perhaps more than one camera for parts of the video using fixed angles with additional lighting. I know most people won't see any problems with the way this video was done but I had problems with being able to see some of the starting and ending points of the marks on the board due to too much movement. When a camera is moving even slightly there can be a small amount of blur before clearing up and this is what caused me problems.
I have an old Elu jointer and I used your same method to align the blades. I also watched this video that looks intersting. He uses springs to keep the blades up so he can align automatically them with two pieces of steel. What do you think? You think It is applicable to your jointer? This Is the video ruclips.net/video/BzsVSFhWdY8/видео.html
Setting jointer knives...PAINFUL!!
Watching someone setting jointer knives...Slightly less painful!!
Nice video though.
Doesn’t look easy at all
not sure if video was useful or not cause you kept blabbing on about your opinion and your life story. FFS
long boring video, showing few times is good for learning but this much is actually have negative effects
Why would you continue to watch if it bores you? No life?