Plug Won't Stay In Outlet
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Klein Voltage Tester: amzn.to/3yYjzh8
This is a very common issue especially as the number of devices we are charging with 2 prong plugs seems to be increasing each year. I will show you why this happens by opening up an old outlet and also how to replace the old outlet with a new one. We will also discuss the recommended grade of outlet to use lowering the chance of failure in the future.
Parts and Tools Used
Outlet Tester: amzn.to/3nylliW
Leviton Receptacle Used: homedepot.sjv.io/Ma3E2
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Klein Voltage Tester: amzn.to/3yYjzh8
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/2NHHKuS
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Great job of explaining! Tip: if you're working by yourself - and you have no idea which circuit breaker it is - in order to find the correct circuit breaker - plug in a radio and turn it on. Then you keep shutting off circuit breakers till the sound quits.
Never thought of this.. Great tip!
If you’ve got $50, invest in a circuit breaker finder kit. Plug the transmitter into the outlet, then go to the panel and wave the wand past each breaker till it beeps. Great device.
That is a great idea. My husband always makes me stand there with lights. Love the radio idea ☺️
Brilliant!
@@litedesign82 unless you're in the trade, don't waste your money on such a specific tool. Coming from an electrician
Thank you...I am a 74 year old grandma and I do a lot of repairs myself (almost all my life) and your voice is easy to listen to, you speak clearly and explain the project to be fixed exactly to the point. (No chit chat about family or other non essential information. ) This has been very helpful and I have subscribed.
Thank you for not having annoying background music like so many youtubers do. Great video from a 63 year old handywoman.
Agreed. I have stopped watching so many videos because of annoying music or the video being split between the content I am interested in and someone playing a video game, etc.
Me too!
I cant stand annoying music, or those silly laughter tracks added to videos when theyre not part of the content necessary. Im the only one in my family that fixes things at my Mother's house, and I like to learn anything new.
well he has some annoying noise in the backgrownd
Fishingpinky, I also hate it when the youtubers, have pets, kids, nature noises, background noises in their videos. I often give a THUMBS DOWN when I encounter these videos. OR I stop the video and back out of it. When the you tuber WASTES my time with this nonsense, I boycott their videos.
I really appreciate how well-done and informative these videos are. No annoying flair bs , just well-presented solid, easily-understood information about almost any topic a homeowner is likely to encounter- Thanks so much!!!!
I always bend the prongs on the plug and the plug will ALWAYS snug up perfectly.
I live in a rental & had no idea why 3 of the outlets in my bedroom were like this. I have bent the prongs & the cords still fall out. I'm a 70 year old woman & found your video to be informative, to the point, & you have a pleasant speaking voice. Thank you for the information.
Don`t feel bad, When I lived in an apartment it was so old the outlets would not allow the newer plugs and no ground. I had to replace them myself with my own money to use.
Spent around $20 to put decent outlets in so the landlord could not say it would cause fires or popping of the breakers.I was there because rent was cheap.
damn, 70? i'm surprised your hip doesn't break when you reach down to the outlet.
@@Layarion I guess you haven't been around many older women since what you said is pretty ridiculous.
@@kkvz2228 oh idk, i just see the numbers "70" and think about how ancient that must feel
@@Layarion clown.
"How to 'fix' a loose outlet". REPLACE IT WITH A NEW ONE. Nice and short, quick to the point.
Seriously. He doesn't say anything about fixing, just replace with a new outlet. Just know that's all this is. Seeing the inside of the outlet was cool though.
No, no, no, you guys forgot wrapping the plug ends with tin foil!
@@jager9825 Even if Sarcasm, it still doesn't have anything to do with the video or the comment. Totally and completely unrelated, out in and out of left field as they say.
Bro, it is just loose. WEcan take it out or just tighten the metal contact, or solder a small strip , it will work. why to throw it out . no waste
No doubt. They are a few bucks and it takes a few minutes. Pfft.
*FUN FACTOID: A two prong cord that will only plug in one way is called a "polarized plug" and will have one spade that is wider than the other one. The smaller of the two spades is the "hot" side (copper colored screw on the receptacle) and the widest spade is the "neutral" side (silver colored screw). The "round" spade on a three prong plug is always the ground wire. When installing a GFI (ground fault interrupter) (where two or more receptacles are on the same circuit be sure to install the GFI at the first receptacle or closest receptacle to the breaker box. This will trip and stop the current to all receptacles down the line behind it in case of one shorting out.*
I recently bought a house and had to replace most of the outlets because they were worn out, nonfunctioning, or even broken.
Great video and clear explanations of what’s going on inside the outlets
THANK YOU for such a clear, easy to understand and informative presentation. Another thing I really appreciate about your presentations is that you have none of that silly so called music or any other distractions in your video's. I've seen other people have that useless noise so loud it almost downs out their voice. Keep up the good work.
*videos (plural non-possessive)
video's = possessive (or a contraction of "video is/has")
Apostrophes are for contractions or possessive nouns, not for pluralizing or random words that happen to end in -s.
*drowns
@@alvallac2171 Thank you for correcting me about the proper use of apostrophes. It seems I've picked up a bad habit or two during the past 60 or more years since I sat in a classroom trying to absorb that kind of knowledge. I think I also need to hunt up one of the manual typewriters I learned to type on and practice my spelling. :) Electric typewriters were just coming on the market, but we didn't have one at my school. Computer? What's that? Never heard of such a thing.
@@gordjohn2322 Using a computer is not a factor. Poor grammar and misuse of a word are.
@@c17nav Thank you Mr. Alexander for reminding me that everyone should always use proper grammar and be very selective in their choice of words. It must be very frustrating for you to read comments made by ordinary people like myself and have to endure the way they mutilate the English language. Would I be correct in assuming that you have never made a typing error in your whole life? Now sir, I hope you have a nice day.
@@gordjohn2322 Responding to your previous question, I have made thousands of typos in my life. And grammar problems. Your reply exhibits that you carefully crafted it, as opposed to publishing the first draft. I do the same, especially for technical authoring. But like other mere mortals, I unfortunately can (and do) err - particularly when deadlines are near. RUclips commentary rarely requires deadlines. Contributors should allow themselves time to finesse their comments. Peace ☮️ 🖖
Hello. I appreciate your effort showing the steps in replacing an electric outlet. I myself have been an electrician for over 30 years and have been an expert electric trouble shooter. If I may critique you a bit just for constructive purposes. As you had said licensed electrician do not like non contact volt sticks. That is correct . Any tester that you need to put batteries in to give a reading just isn't a good idea. Through experience I've learned this as many of my peers have as well. The next thing is. Putting 2 wires under thst same screw isn't the best idea in my opinion. You only have 2 wires on each side. Put 1 wire under 1 terminal screw and the other wire in the 2nd terminal screw. First reason is heat the one screw holding both wires will create more heat. Spreading out the load a bit by using both screws will help distribute that more evenly. Another reason the wire being solid copper does put resistive weight on the outlet as you push it in the box. The wire will push against the terminal screw and that weight plus the electric usage can cause the screws to loosen due to vibration and expansion and contracting. An even better method is to pig tail the wires so only 1 wire goes to the outlet on each side. If you do have an outlet issue and it goes bad it won't affect the rest of the circuit. Just my opinion.
Pig tailing is best option.
Yes contactless testers are ways electricians die. Bad battery and a bad thing can happen
Double lugging is a code violation anyway.
Great comment - I'm just a PC repair guy, however I have done some home repair on electrical items... Could you please elaborate on "pigtailing" - IF I understand correctly, does that mean twist the two wires on each side into a cap, with a third wire (presumable a small piece one would cut with the same gauge) extending out into the screw?
Another thing to mention is to check to see if the bonding tab that connects the two receptacles together has not been cut.if it has been cut then the two wires need to be one in each terminal because one receptacle is likely controlled by a switch on the wall. Usually in older homes without ceiling lights this way you can plug a lamp in the one controlled by the switch on the wall. By the way only break the hot bonding tab and leave the neutral intact
I always pig taiil if there is more than one wire. Another reason to pigtail is if something goes wrong in the receptacle it will not knockout other receptacles down the line.
Scott:
I for one appreciate your willingness to share your skills and knowledge.
Please don't be put off by constructive critique. These guys, regardless of their motivation, are taking the time to praise, correct, redirect, etc. The information they provide gives us all a complete picture of the issue or process.
Keep doing what you're doing. 89 million views must mean you're doing something right!
Amen
If only he used a locking outlet for vending machines (key type). Then put on a locking consumer power bar (the twist lock type).
It's his georgeous eyes 👀
@@pakuma3 - I noticed that too.
GREAT VIDEO. You're very good at explaining this. I'm a 65 year young woman who has never had to do home fixes because my husband is very handy, however, after watching this video, I honestly believe I could sucessfully replace an old outlet; and without frying myself!!!! Thank so much!
7:10 Another advantage of cutting off the old hook-bent wire-ends (if the existing wire-length allows it) is that you will not be re-using the already flexed-several times wire-ends that could thus be embrittled from metal-fatigue; for maximum current-carrying capability, you'll always want nice "fresh" solid wire that hasn't been cracked or abraded.
Thanks for the feedback Fred 👍
Subbed because of this. most other diy channels would have completely skipped the outlet receptacle removal, reattaching of wires, etc, leaving me with tons of questions. Learned more than I expected to with this one.
I always learn something from Scott. The camera angles and lighting are good to learn from and his presentation is excellent. I try not to miss any of his videos; there's always something to learn from each.
I use to be an electrician in the UK (retired now) and yes I do know a little bit about American electrics but it is nice to watch a Americans wire up things to see the differences between us! We have 2 new things we have to do now; The first is to PROVE something's dead (you can now buy a new 2 part test meters here). And the second is now the electrical council prefers you to use a torque wrench screwdrivers (obviously to make sure the connection is the correct tightness) "I dont know if the torque screwdriver is regulation yet". The UK the electrical council has for the last 20 years or so has been quite hot on health and safety and has always been hot on making sure the equipment your working on is dead and tagged out.
Even if you are not comfortable replacing an outlet, this is still one of those helpful tidbits I think every homeowner should know.
You should be comfortable swapping an outlet and switch.
Another cause of wear is when people yank the cord to disconnect the plug. If you do this for a couple years, the
lateral force is essentially prying open the contacts. Always grasp the plug and pull straight out. That said, you might have an outlet behind a heavy piece of furniture with perhaps a lamp plugged in. The outlet and plug are hard to reach. I would be less concerned about this as you’re probably not unplugging the lamp very often. Pulling by the cord once a year is probably not going to substantially damage the outlet.
I don't
I'm a master electrician and I love to shut your channel down
I like to know the right way to do something before I hire someone. Yes, I watch over their shoulder......
The other safety issue besides exposed prongs is that a loose receptacle makes a poor electrical connection. The increased resistance at the receptacle produces localized heating that can damage the insulation of the wires. I'd replace any receptacle that doesn't hold a 2 prong plug as tightly as a new receptacle. If either the neutral or hot prong is loose enough then you can have a fire hazard - even if the ground prong makes a firm connection.
Hey Jason, thanks for the feedback and agree the increased heat doesn't do any favors for the life of the receptacle.
How can you measure the "leakage current" ?
Thats exactly right..loose wires cause fires. I recommend looking at every outlet with a load on thermal infrared, the beakers too. It only cost about 2 dollars to replace a 20 year old receptacle.
@@rickhunt3183 what do you mean by a load on thermal infrared?
@@waynegram8907 He means that you need to plug in something that will draw a high current - such as a hair dryer. If there is unacceptable resistance at the outlet then you will see the outlet heat up on the infrared camera. On the other hand, if you only plug in something that draws a small current, like a LED light, then there won't be much resistive heating to detect
I’m not by any means a ‘handy woman’, but have always been intrigued by how things work. Thank you for a clear and concise explanation of how things work and how to repair. I won’t ever attempt, but it’s nice to have the knowledge to relate to a repairman if need be.
What a licensed electrician taught me was after removing the receptacle (or switch or other device), push the no contact voltage tester deep into the box because electric code does allow cable from different circuits to be in the same box. So while power to the receptacle would be off, cable in the box from a different circuit could still be energized. Also, it is kinda hard to use an outlet tester when you are working on a switch.
p.s. If the wood paneling extends past the edge of the box, you probably want to use a box extender to protect the combustible (the paneling) from the electrical components.
Hmm..why would a live circuit be in a receptacle box if it doesnt feed the plug?
In thirty yrs in the industry i have never come across that..both commercial and residential.
I believe your electrician meant junction boxes, not receptacle boxes..in that term, he is correct.
@@duannehohn3118 In my garage, I have a three gang box. It has two switches and one receptacle. The two switches are on a 15A circuit that operate two separate lights. The receptacle is on a 20A circuit. To safely work in the box, power to both branch circuits has to be turned off.
The video shows a single plug..not a three gang box.
@@duannehohn3118 Doesn't matter. Code still allows more than one branch circuit inside a box.
When I was an electrician I learned that wrapping electrical tape around the screws of the plug after connecting the wires helps prevent the risk of the screws touching the sides of the metal box and prevents shortening out the breaker.
When the proper outlets and proper boxes are used and the wires are connected properly, there is absolutely no chance of shorting. Wrapping tape around it is pointless. If you’re hooking up and there is a potential for shorting, then you need to find a new profession, and a good defense lawyer for that matter.
@@hiseminencetheholymacdiarmada there is absolutely a chance on single gang metal boxes. Tf you talking about lol
Most people don't realize you're supposed to replace a breaker after 5-7 trips because it breaks easier every time
What do you mean "screws of the plug"??? Typical plugs on appliances have no screws. Do you mean the screws of the outlets???
@Kevin Matheson Did you think that this is an older home since the receptacle is obviously worn out and metal boxes were the only option when this was constructed? Wrapping tape around the receptacle before installation is a common practice that helps prevent shorts if the screw and wire termination becomes loose due to vibration or possible heating and cooling cycles when using high amperage appliances like vacuums.
Old school electrician taught me as a last step. Wrap the outlet with electrical tape covering the contact screws as an added safety measure.
This was EXACTLY what I needed! Thank you for explaining what causes loose connections. I had no idea that there were basic instructions on the back of the outlet either. My new plugs had holes on the back for the quick connection option.
If avoidable try an use the screw terminals or ensure that the holes may be secured by the screws in order to avoid the small springs being all that connects to wire and weakens over time from constant tension
Those with holes where the wire is not held by screws like heavy duty ones are referred to as stab-lock or "back-stab" and should not be used , better outlets pay for themselves in the long run by lasting longer than cheap ones.
Me too but my mom won’t let me
😢
@@jennywatts7054 well try to explain what the reasoning for the safety necessitated method of a sidewire is.
Thank you for this video. I am a new homeowner and the house I bought is 130 years old! I have several outlets where plugs just fall out and now I have the resource I need to replace them!
I cannot believe this is what I am doing right now. This is like instant knowledge. I cannot thank you enough !!!
You're very welcome!
Lol instant knowledge
Rather than "worn out by current", it's more accurate to say the folded over metal in the receptacle has been used so much, it no longer has enough "spring" to hold the plug blade. Any house over 10yrs old will start having this happen in high use areas, especially in kitchens and bathrooms.
I was a new build resi & service electrician for 12 yrs, and did tons of side work in old houses, particularly replacing plugs and switches in rental houses between tenants for a bunch of property management companies.
Good videos, and good advice. And yeah, stop painting over receptacles.
I agree with the paint, it really looks tacky after awhile. I generally remove the plates and put masking tape over the outlet. If necessary, you can plug into the outlet through the tape for a light, etc.
Scott- thank you for a great video. You take your time and go step by step through the process explaining the what and why’s. All of your videos have been extremely helpful.
Thanks for the kind words Bruce 👍
For the receptacle connections, I came up with this memory jogger to remember the wire color for the silver terminal (Neutral).
"What is the color and name of The Lone Ranger's horse?"
Answer: White and Silver. So connect the white (Neutral) wire to the silver terminal.
Definitely easy to remember for older folks and even younger fans of that heroic character.
I like how you mentioned hotel rooms with lose outlets. I've seen several hotel rooms where the wall outlets were inaccessible, and all the newer lamp base outlets were so loose that my phone charger wouldn't stay connected to charge my phone. I told the front desk the maids were plugging the vacuum cleaner into the lamp bases which is a problem since some of those outlets are only rated at maximum 3 amps.
I can understand why they do that. Those outlets are always located in some far inconvenient place. People don't want to move furniture just to plug something in.
3A, what garbage dump were they from, I have never seen anything under 15A.
@@toriless I'm talking about the outlet built into the base of a lamp that you can plug in a phone charger. I'm in a hotel right now and it has a sticker on it saying 3.5AMP Max Combined. That is the norm for auxiliary outlets on appliances, not 15 AMPS.
Not specifically in reference to the socket on the lamp itself, but it genuinely amazes me that hotels don't use flat front, 90º plugs behind furniture like nightstands to keep the plugs of the lamps, alarm clock, etc., from getting mangled from the furniture shifting around and ending up pulled out exposed halfway from the wall just waiting for someone to touch - OR drop something metal off the nightstand and enjoy a nice fireworks show.
FYI, your outlet has wire strippers built onto it . The notches on metal by screw holes, 15mm and 17 mm strip.
Jane told you
FYI not all receptacles have that. In fact the commercial grade he is using to replace the old one in this video does not.
@@wjanis1 I told Jane
Thanks for the tip
Lol the only time I would every use those slots that happen to strip wires is if for some reason I have to replace this plug right now but I have no wire strippers
Thanks for sharing this! I am finding a few of my outlets are loose. My house was built in 1954, so I guess that’s definitely to be expected! I will be tackling this issue this week!
I wish I had the outlets from 1954, everything new is garbage.
Mines from 1949 & we definitely have the outlets from long ago 🤓
Thanks for taking the time and making this video. I never thought about it, I just replaced the outlet. However, your video explained more than just replacing. Your outlet comparisons and explanations made all the difference. I know of one outlet I need to replace today. It too is an outlet that is used for a vacuum cleaner all the time. All the best.
Non-contact testers detect live wires on switched outlets that plug-in testers do not. Love the outlet autopsy.
DIY. I didn't know that heat would cause it to gap like that but over the year's I've found about 3 loose plugin's in house's I've rented, all I did was spread the prongs on the plug a bit so they were wider than the holes, that way they would touch better/tighter and I never had the problem again.
Make sure you don't touch the prongs on something that has a capacitor like an old-school TV or you'll get shocked
Yeah, if you travel a lot for your job or whatever, l don't think they want you messing with the box switches to upgrade the outlet in the hotel!.🤣
@J D Simpson The homer simpson way lmao
@@lindaplieskatt9150 I think he's talking about the plug, not the receptacle and even than, it is not the way to fix the problem. You could get away with that if you ARE in a cheap motel and you just need to plug your phone charger in for the night but it does weaken the plug and just is not a fix so if I was this guy I would have just kept that thought to myself lol
First time viewer here. I have zero knowledge about electricity, wiring, etc., except for plugging my phone charger and turning on/off light switches.
Great job explaining how to fix and replace sunken outlets. Straightforward. Clear. Understandable. Your demo made this job look so easy. You got me interested in doing electrical stuff. 😂 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Most thorough and efficient how to fix outlet video on the tube. Thanks !
Thanks Marc!
I'm an electrician. I suggest to replace with commercial grade receptacles. There a little more expensive, but well worth the $$$. Also, since you are replacing, remove the screws all the way. That way, you are not bending the wires, which weakens the copper.
Replace them with quality UK sockets ! but fuck you want shit sockets you got em
@Twisted Hillbilly Yep, 20A requires 12 gauge (or bigger for longer runs which usually do not occur in residential buildings) 100% of the run.
the 59 cent recpt is just for contractors to make extra money, a specification or hospital grade is the only one i buy because i worked at a place that built pumps and every single one was plugged in (thousand times a day) and ran to test flow, pressure and draw, as a result the cheep ones wouldn't last a day, on the spec and hospital grade the plastic would wear out to the point where you could touch the metal with your little finger but would hold the plug.
Lol, I have often run into this problem. It never occurred to me that an outlet could wear out!!! It is kind of amazing that a better quality part costs so little more than the cheap version. Another thing to be aware of is that you can now get outlets with usb power built in…. A nice convenience to avoid a power brick for electronics
My dad’s house was built in the 1960s, and I can’t remember ever having any issues with plugs not being secure in any outlets in that house (or him ever replacing any outlets). My house was built in 1994, and almost ALL of the outlets have this issue!
Planned obsolescence. That's what they do, Sell you garbage. All they care about is stealing your time.🤷♂️
My house was built in 1944 and all the outlets have this problem. Some were changed but some look very old
Any do-it-yourself video where you aren't sitting there thinking, "GET ON WITH IT" is a good video. Good job.
I second this notion. Just get to the job...I don't need the backstory. Thanks for keeping it to the point.
I'm very tempted when I move out to f*** this up for my landlord. I should be the one having to do this. Thankfully my dad's an electrician unfortunately he's dead but I have all his tools
Maybe I'm getting old or impatient. Several times I thought "get on with it already" and skipped ahead.
Really? 11 minutes for a simple "how to replace an outlet" video? You're more patient than I am.
Just fast forward already.
Thank You. This video has helped me understand why all my plugs keep falling out. I'm going out tomorrow and get the ones you suggested and replacing them. Again thank you. 🙏❤️
1. Any replaced receptacle in living areas must include arc-fault protection. You can buy that for the replaced location, but cheaper to put it at the head of the circuit so that any down-stream receptacles can be replaced in the future with ordinary ones. 2. Anti-tamper is only required for new work by NEC (unless overridden by local code), but use it anyway to protect 12 kids that die every year. 3. Use only screw terminals vs. push-in to prevent intermittents decades later. 4. If circuit comes in on one set of screws and goes out on another, you must pigtail at least the neutrals together so that only one wire goes to the receptacle and removing same in future won't break neutral to downstream devices. 5. If replacing 2-prong with 3-prong, install GFCI at head of circuit and use provided NO GROUND labels at every 3-prong location to be legal. (Electronic protection effectively subs for missing ground wire.)
Wait waht is oh ooh right the non living areas makes sense for the reason as to why the conceot of non arc fault circuit interupter outlets are sold still... otherwise they would be useless fwiw also Idk that so thx dawg
i have no idea what any of this means
My house has 2 prong and several 3 prong outlets (all have this drooping issue) but there is no ground. Do you think non grounded GFI outlet replacements would be acceptable or should I pay a few grand to have a new breaker box and new ROMEX?
Another way to make sure that you flipped the correct breaker or removed the right fuse ,is to plug in a radio
and turn up the volumn . When the radio goes silent then you know you did it correctly .
Check the outlet with a tester just the same ,for added insurance .
This is a real time saver if you are working far away from the electrical panel ,or working alone .
Thanks for that tip. I remembered hearing that a long time ago, but forgot about it. My outlets are the opposite, they seem rusted and hard to plug and unplug. I might have to replace several.
Mind you, if the plug falls out of the wall, it will also go silent.....LOL
Yo can’t do that so well today. Radios that will stay on and come on when power is introduced are an anachronism. They all seem to use eletronic switching . Your best bet for that is shopping yard sales for old 1970s to 80s radios.
Video Popped up in my timeline. I’ve got a house full of these crappy old outlets that I need to switch out. This video is really informative.
They are watching us...they know ;) ✋🏻 from the high desert of Texas.
My father was an electrician and he always said to shut off all power to the house for a quick repair. It wouldn't do any harm and there was no doubt about the power being off.
Only those who have no idea turn a whole house off....
You can never be too safe, you don't know who's done what before you. Turn off all you can you never know if stray current might activate an otherwise dead circuit.
@@gregordonnach7970 Also, as an electrician, my Dad worked on a bunch of different houses. In my house, Mom did the changing of the light switches.
@@jamescole9767 Yeah, that is what the circuit breakers are for, amongst other uses.
@@gregordonnach7970 Only if you house was wire by a moron.
👍The details of “why” it happens is interesting. Thank you for taking the time to make & post this video. 🙏💝
I'm a diy'r I do ground down. This is from the 10 things about an outlet. I really like your videos. I'm from South Dakota and I come across quite a few limp and lazy I called them outlets that are worn out from space heaters and whatever causes them to get hot and limp. Thanks and be safe!
Good video.
Only thing you missed was an add-a-depth for that plywood gap. (314.20. Can't have any setback when the box is located within combustible material.) If this were non-combustible you could have up to 1/4" of setback.
Good stuff John, thanks for sharing. Got to love the wood paneling. Happy New Year 🍻
Nice catch John.
Need a fire ring
I can't remember which RUclips video I saw this on but the guy pointed out that outlets can sometimes not be live enough to output 120 volts while being live enough to shock you. He therefore advocating a multi meter to read the actual voltage as the traditional style outlet checker will not light up without 120 volts present even if the voltage level is high to be dangerous to you. Sounds like a good idea to me and from here on out I'm opting for my multimeter. For those still using the style outlet checker used here make sure you plug it into a live outlet first to make sure the indicator bulb is functional. A dead bulb in the tester can result in a dead testee!
Non-contact one will work s that situation too. You know they now have laser measuring tapes as well as multi-axis laser levels for putting in walls, welcome to the 21st century.
The tamper protection was broken on that and you still installed it... WOW!!!
You are so thorough in each video. I have been looking at your electrical videos and as a DIYer, try I am trying to follow the newest NEC code. Thank you for mentioning those throughout the videos.
Just a quick tip, I usually add some electrical tape around the hot and neutral terminals just for extra safety. Not require per code, but just for safety... great video.
Especially when its going back into a metal box. 👍
I was told never to wrap electrical tape around the terminals on an outlet or switch because if the terminals start to overheat the tape could catch fire.
@@Imroytc
The tape won't catch fire.
And "F-strap" or "battleship" or "madison" box mounting straps used to mount metal cut-in boxes can spring back and touch device terminals.
@@Imroytc 😆
@@Imroytc The contents of every outlet box consists of 78% plastic. The flash point of the tape is the same as the insulation on the wires and the outlet overmolding itself so if it is hot enough for a fire? wrapped with tape or not ts time to grab your hot dogs, buns and stuff to make smores because we are having a cook out.
If the NEC itself does not specify whether you should or should not wrap the outlet when installing it by now ( and there is a rule for almost everything else right??) and the tape is UL approved to wrap and insulate electrical wires (Imagine that?) it is NOT a hazard to wrap the outlet with it!!
It all boils down to opinion and thought process. If your mind tells you that electrical tape becomes a gasoline soaked rag when wrapped on an outlet but is Ok to use everywhere else in a circuit? Then so be it. I always wrap when a metal box is present and do not with plastic.
The idea that the tape "dries out" and becomes a fire hazard comes from the old friction tape impregnated with gutta percha used before the current standard on knob and tube wiring and early types of romex with the black asphalt type insulation that did not have a ground wire.
Well done. Thanks for posting this important basic video. I wish you would have let us see you get all those old wires back into the box after the new socket was attached. That's always been my challenge . . . they just seem to resist my best efforts (especially 12 ga wire). Thanks, again.
Yeah well this is true- ngl solid core wire if it is either stiff type of metal or kinda thick then it can be pretty resistant to going where it's supposed to go.
You are Totally Amazing at Teaching Someone who knows nothing about electrical plugs and all. Thank you so much.
If you're replacing devices, cut off and restrip the ends since they are damaged/worn. If you need to, wirenut a new piece of wire (called a pig tail) to extend it out of the box.
No need if there actually wore enough you will notice it the will break off with even the slightest force or bend
Good thought unless they’ve already been cut off three times (grin).
I’ve been dealing with this problem and have been wanting to fix it for a long time but didn’t know how.
Thanks! ⭐️
Lol had no idea that I needed to replace it! O wait actually that was the only thing I could imagine doing.
Is that what you're saying?
@Twisted Hillbilly ditto
I’m subscribing, this guy goes go straight to the point! He knows his trade well! thanks for the excellent tips!!!add another subscription!! Rob
Great advice on upgrading to commercial grade. They seem to never lose their plug grip tension.
Tip: at about 3:05 - you can remove those wire screws completely and those wires will be much easier to work with. And yes, replace the outlet.
Thank you. I live in an apartment complex. Have complained about the outlets doing just that. Not holding and was told to just bend the prongs so they hold. True statement. Guess I will go buy my own and then have them installed. Safety hazard, eh! God bless you and keep you safe.
Lol..... That's what I did too!
Send the landlord the bill for the outlets, at least, and get the better ones. If you are replacing 2-prong outlets, you should be using gfci or afci outlets. Even without a ground wire, they are preferred.
Good practice to do a wrap around outlet with electrial tape to cover the screws when installing in a metal box
What the F! If your work is that sloppy you should not be doing electrical work.
Why? Once the outlet is secured and the power turned on, there is no way for the screws to contact the box. Nothing metal can get in there and short out the gap either because you are going to kill the power before taking off the cover plate, right? That, and taping over wire nuts, are unnecessary and unprofessional.
@@FisherCatProductions no it is good practice but the reasons you mentioned are why it’s not code why because if you take out that plug and hit the side live it could short i have changed plugs and switches live I know I shouldn’t but I have and although I’m carful not to touch it can happen so If I have tape I’ll do it if I don’t it’s ok
@@toriless let’s hope no ground moves and touches hot cause your lazy aśš couldn’t wrap tape 🤷♂️
I was a student in Residential wiring in a vocational School In highschool. " Many" years back😱. Loved it. WE to was showed to wrap the terminals and wire nuts with electrical tape. It was NOT code. But a added safety of personal gratification. It's "Not" about being Sloppy work. Just personal preference. Plastic boxes normally didn't tape device. If the job was completed correctly. Tape or No tape. The finished product will be "safe" as well look of satisfactory. But hay😎. What do I know⁉️ I'm a FARMER 😂. Baylor twine. Duct tape and Cow poop. Is what we have to work with😉. Be safe my fellow reader's. Guy from Ohio.
If you have the problem with plugs staying in when at a hotel or motel - just splay the plug prongs out a little so that it doesn't break them but allows for insertion into the outlet without loosening.
Also a tip from me to you - just remove the screws when removing wires from the outlet - this way you don't have to worry about breaking them or marring your insulation. I do the same thing when inserting them into the new outlet. I remove the screws then insert them into the holes or hooks for the wire then into the outlet. This makes it easier so that I don't have to worry about where they go or damage in any way.
My dad was a electrician did houses and also worked at some nuclear plants .Im a sheetmetal journeyman i wish i listened to him more now that im remodeling my house but your videos are very helpfull .those steel boxes like that in my house i know my dad fixed for me at one time when i open them they always have a couple of black tape wraps around them to keep from shorting out .
When I remove receptacle that has 2 wires on each side I will pigtail the pairs and then wire to receptacle. This will reduce the possible reduction in wire in the box if you have to make repairs in future. Doing this at first installation makes it easier to put the receptacle in. One must ensure that you meet the code requirements for box fill.
Normally the supply / neutral attaches to the top and the bottom is for the next receptacle. The also avoid excessive bundles.
On the topic of Tamper Resistant Outlets: As a kid in the late '60s and '70s I remember seeing TONs of "public service announcements" for kids teaching you to never insert anything into an outlet because you could get electrocuted. Actually doing it NEVER crossed my mind (as a child) UNTIL I had these warning videos hammered into my head, and then I wanted nothing more than to actually DO it. Now they had my curiosity pic'd. Now I HAD to do it just to find out WHY. ...the more ya know...
They probably started seeing increased injuries to children after the PSA started rolling 🤦♂️
This simple repair was interesting and I enjoyed it. Also, the comments were interesting hearing the explanations of possible problems and how one fix them was also very helpful.
Big thanks for sharing the video and thank you to all the guy who offered some excellent information.
Great video! You helped me understand what happened to the outlet and how to fix it. Thank you!
My husband plays the guitar and his amps pull a lot of juice. Which in turn weakened the outlet. I look forward to more videos.
That was the right move, putting both wires on the same screw when back wiring. I don't like to back wire with only one wire, because that puts a bind on the screw, which means, you feel the screw tighten up, but you don't really know how well it's gripping the wire. If your outlet only had 3 wires (hot, neutral, ground) I would recommend the "shepherd's hook" technique, just so the screw can seat evenly on the wire. While the shepherd hook is a little more difficult to work with, it will maintain a good connection, with minimum thermal cyclic stress. Well worth the extra effort.
I would have pigtailed the wires. If the receptacle ever goes bad you do not lose power down the line.
code requires that if two or more wires service the outlet they must be pigtailed
@@dalezeilinger7859 That is true on the neutral wire but nor the hot.
Putting 2 wires under 1 screw is against code.
Two things , on your hot it seems you had the bare wire going past the plastic housing if the outlet . I did that once and had the excess ground wire in the box short out against that minute bit of bare wire. A good policy, when you have metal boxes , is to wrap the receptacle with electrical tape covering the terminal screw heads so there is no chance of them shorting out against the metal box .
I've heard electricians speak loudly against that practice -- the case they make is that the tape will eventually dry out as it is exposed to heat cycles, then have the potential of catching on fire. FWIW, I am a wrap the outlet with electric tape kinda guy.
@@BorealSelfReliance Is electrical tape made from material that becomes that easily combustible when it dries out? That seems a bit implausible. I'm a wrap in tape kinda guy through and through as well.
@@BorealSelfReliance I absolutely despise working with electrical tape, especially on rework when I pull that greasy, sticky mess out of the wall.
If you are not reusing the outlet, just unscrew them all of the was till they fall. It will save some time. I used to work for Leviton where the receptacles and switches were made. UL 498 in the US calls for the screws to be torqued at 12-14 inch-pounds to comply with the NEC requirement at NEC 110.14(D) Overall, good job, I like that the video uses two different devices to make sure the power is off.
Thanks for mentioning torque. What I do is lean the outlet against the wall, and get the screws very tight, but I've wondered if there's an actual recommended torque value.
This whole 11 minutes of this video is to tell you to replace outlet. Amazing.
You’re welcome.
I appreciate your video. And one thing I love about metal boxes is the screws turn very easily vs some plastic boxes the screws require more torque.
It has never been any problem for me.
An easy 20 minute fix for something that makes such a difference. Thanks a lot
I was also always taught by an old school guy to wrap the connection area with a little electrical tape just as and extra added bit of safety based on the principle of what can go wrong soon will go wrong
@ hatefunwrk --- Yes, this is how I have always done it too... Especially if the box is metal, or there are several outlets next to each other in the box... The dummy who said you don't need tape above, has never even seen even an outlet cover removed...
@@frandanco6289 Right🤣🤣
Yes, I didn't know there was a commercial and residential grade outlet. Now I know what to do about the extra contact screw that's typically left out. If not used, screw it back in. Thank you for filling in those "gaps" in my knowledge. You made my life more complete.
I'm deathly afraid of electricity as I witnessed an electrician hanging from conduit pipe getting electrocuted as a kid, your video not only made it look simple, but safe to do.
@MLU8811 I can second this. There's almost no limit to how many times you can (and should) double- and triple- and quadruple- check things before touching them, and absolutely never assume anything is correct or using the appropriate color wire or any other things you might be tempted to take for granted, because you will never cease to be amazed at the horrifyingly sketchy things you will find, especially in older homes. Safety always comes first and there's no shame in checking things multiple times if you're feeling unsure and hesitant. Ideally, unless there's a reason you absolutely can't, you can just kill power to everything before working on things and that's always a nice extra peace-of-mind.
The box needs an extension ring.
It looks like somebody covered the wall with plywood at some point in the past. Box can not be recessed more than 1/8 inch behind combustible material. Box extensions are cheap but sometimes a pain in the butt to work with but are required in certain situations such as yours.
I would worry about fire too if I didn't put my wires on receptacles correctly, pig tail all wires with a 3M nut can prevent lots of problems
@@jamescole9767 A poorly nutted pigtail is less safe than what he did. Done correctly they are both equally safe.
@@FisherCatProductions poorly done is unprofessional🙃
You can wire it like that but but if you put one wire under one screw and the other wire under the other screw if something happens to the plug the copper piece between the two screws act’s a fuse link and it can protect the circuit down the line and also makes it easier to find where the trouble is.
Thank you for explaining why that happens and showing the solution! Even if I don’t replace it myself at least now I know why and how. Appreciate your generosity in sharing your knowledge so clearly.
When I saw the title to video, I chuckled and watched to see if he would mention what I was thinking - Nope!
However; others in the comments mentioned what I was thinking. I'm 71, and any time I had this problem I would just either squeeze the prongs together a little or spread them apart a little creating some tension and has always worked great and never had a problem.
That is how the contacts in the outlets work. When you insert the plug in the outlet the prongs are spreading the contacts a apart and it is the tension created by the outlet contacts trying to stay in their original position that keeps the plug in. Buying a new outlet is no different than if you squeezed the internal contacts of the old outlet together a little to recreate the tension. Squeezing the prongs on the plug is so much easier and cheaper than installing a new outlet.
I noticed he never responded to comments about squeezing the plug prongs together. I wonder why????????????
He did not reply because he knows his title is CLICK BAIT and nothing more. No one would go to it otherwise. Rely number 5 will shock you !!!
Replacing an outlet takes less than 10 minutes, and costs a couple of bucks. Squeezing the prongs on your plug doesn’t prevent the fire hazard that you have from a potential arc fault.
Probably because it's a bullshit 'fix' that doesn't deal with the problem SAFELY.
You can probably just unscrew the terminal screws till they fall out of the outlet. Most of those older receptacles do that.
I wished the newer ones did that lol.
As a Swede living in Europe I am always mesmerized just how archaic your American electrical systems are built compared to ours.
Thank you for the great video! The professional electrician I hired a few years ago to replace all my outlets and install new ones, used bargain basement outlets that still didn't hold 2-prong plugs! I replaced the worst offender with the outlet you recommended... No fire, no explosions... I know have a working outlet that even holds the plug for the vacuum cleaner that I used to clean up the mess from the drywall! Interestingly enough, the professional electrician had wound the ground wire on backwards! 😮
Great video. Big thumbs up for showing us the insides of the old receptacle and the new one. Thank you for the explanation on why it happens.
Glad you enjoyed it
Non contact tool saved me. Outlet was off, there was a stray hot wire in the box.
Especially in the context of a loose connection on the plug - a plug-in indicator may give a false negative, leading you to believe you've killed the correct breaker switch when in fact there are angry pixies waiting patiently to ground through you.
I consider a meter and a non-contact to be the "measure twice, cut once" of electrical work. Use both.
Have had that happen to me many times..
Its only 110v. Unless your standing in water its a tingle.
220v? Thats good jolt. I don't recommend. Been there. "Yeah its off....go ahead"....aaaaahh !
@@roberttyrrell2250 110v can still kill you.. All depends on path and your condition. I've been hit by 220v also.. That's no fun at all.
@@nutbastard That's why I always switch off all the breakers, before I start working, whenever possible. Doesn't hurt to be extra safe.
I like your videos,, they are well done and quite informative. One thing I think you could've mentioned, is you had two hots and two commons, that you removed from BOTH screws on each side of the old receptacle, but you put the two (hots & commons) back onto only one of the screws on each side of the new receptacle when you re-installed them. Perhaps you should've mentioned that the upper and lower receptacles are linked together by a "jumper" of sorts. Just in case anyone noticed and was confused.
Scott, thank you for sharing so much important information!! Whether you own, renter, or are a Landlord, everyone wants to be safe in their living environment/home!!
You provided such excellent information about safety, that we all need to know!! What a great service you provided to those of us who need to learn/know this valuable information!!
👍🏻🤗👏🏻👏🏻
Cool. I learned something, thanks.
My mother’s house has several bad ones.
Cord falls out and I get the call to come reset the clock.
One additional thing I do-especially in a metal or multiganged box:
after reattaching all the wires, I give the whole receptical a wrap with a strip of black electrical tape covering all the screw terminals.
For a penny of tape its a little extra protection against arcing.
Thanks for the feedback Kelley. 👍
This only shows your not an electrician and you do sloppy work. If you were no my crew I'd fire you on the spot.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Don.t do it - it's not needed and it's sloppy work. It just invites some idiot to pull out a hot outlet and think he's protected from shock.
@@jerrysmith372"this only shows you're not an electrician and do sloppy work"? Who the fuck died and made you king shit? I'm a licensed electrician and I tape devices in metal boxes, you gonna fire me? Stop trying to force your OPINIONS on people as code requirements.
Supply houses sell oversized rubber bands to do the same thing... I guess you'd be firing a lot of electricians.
you are very patient. Thank you, wow you helped resolve other electrical issues that had simply stumped me. But you explaining the hot and the neutral etc... made sense why I have shorts in this house that I have been bequeathed by my late husband. God bless you.
Great video but I think you should mention that the screw terminals need to be very tight or else the connection will overheat.
When I worked as a commercial / industrial electrician, we would never have just hooked up the 2 hots or 2 neutrals individually like that. We always "pigtailed" them so that you only need to connect 1 hot wire or 1 neutral wire to the receptacle. When doing it as a commercial / industrial electrician, we didn't always have the ability to shut the power down as that would shut down multiple outlets and equipment. With the pigtail, you could disconnect the outlet without shutting down any outlets further along in the parallel circuit.
The problem with that is someone with weak fingers not getting the wirenut tight enough. Next thing you know, there is arcing inside the wirenut. Maybe.
@@danielhowiesr.2593 We gripped the wirenut with linesmen pliers and twisted it to be sure it was tight.
still bothers me, whats the purpose other screw ..both side connect the same 2 hots and same for neutral..why on same one screw ???
@@user78405 Mr "handyman" didn't explain correctly, maybe he doesn't know .
Only one hot is connected to each outlet one set of wires is typically the line (hot) and the other set is the feed which will be the hot in the next outlet box.
Usually there is several outlets(and sometimes lights) in line from one breaker.
It is possible to have two
Sets of hot (line) to the same outlet if you break off the small tab between the 2 sets of terminals.
But that's rarely done.
Ya no shit was that the first thing that indicated to you that this doof is a scrub?
I always use Professional grade plugs when replacing worn out 1980's style Residential grade 15 amp plugs at my home. Leviton brand
@Brandon Penny by professional he probably means commercial or hospital grade which is more expensive, or u can get residential grade which is a lot cheaper in price. Both r sold at hardware stores
I really appreciate the detailed reasoning behind your every move... great for a single mom who has to do as much for myself as financially possible 👍
Happy to help, best of luck on your projects 👍
TEN THINGS YOU DID WRONG:
1. The box's 6-32 threaded hole is set back more than 1/4", which requires a goof ring (NEC 314.20). Even if it was less than 1/4" (it's not), you've got dried out wood paneling - use a plastic goof ring.
2. You didn't check for voltage after the neutral wires were disconnected. If the neutral was shared with another circuit then the load side would become hot when disconnected. A little thing like that can get somebody killed (a shock from a neutral under load is much more severe than from the hot wire).
3. You didn't tail out the wires. Especially the neutral! (see above) There should only be 3 wires connected to a non-GFCI/AFCI duplex receptacle (4 if it's half-switched). Not to mention making it easier (and safer) the next time it needs to be replaced.
4. If the receptacle can't be tailed out for some reason (no wire or wirenuts available?) don't put both wires under the same screw. You've got 2 screws. Use them.
5. When using the clamp terminations with solid wire, you should wiggle the wire after tightening, then tighten again. And again after the wires are folded into the box. Personally, I prefer hooking to the screw with solid wire, and using the clamps with stranded wire. Hooks on solid wire are a better connection and less likely to loosen when the receptacle is pushed back into the box. If I had a dollar for every time I pulled a receptacle out of the wall with the wire(s) staying in the box...
6. You didn't check to see if the ground (green) wire was connected to the box. If it isn't, then it too needs to be spliced to a tail (never, ever put 2 ground wires under 1 screw!) with one end under a 10-32 ground screw in the back of the box (if there's no threaded hole in the back of the box then you have to drill/tap one). The ground wire is not only the most important wire protecting you from electrocution, it is the ONLY wire protecting you.
7. You make no mention that it is a mistake to assume the way the wires are dressed out (spliced, connected, etc.) in an existing box are correct. It is quite often the opposite, as in your case. Instead of correcting the mistakes of the previous installer, you repeated them. Anyone replacing any electrical device is required to meet current NEC rules.
8. In the beginning of the video you're literally lying on the floor. You should stress that even though the power is OFF (hopefully) one should always behave as if the wires are hot. Do not ground yourself when working on electrical systems!
9. When replacing a receptacle inside your house, the NEC requires that receptacle to be Arc-Fault protected (NEC 406.4 (D) (4)). AFCIs are required on all 120-volt, single-phase circuits with 15 to 20 amps supplying receptacles in all dwelling rooms.
10. You should mention that electrical installations are not only about knowledge, it's also about technique. And as described above, there are many things to consider even for a simple device replacement. In over 40 years of industrial, commercial & residential work I've yet to see someone who's not an electrician perform the relatively simple task of changing out a device to my satisfaction. My somewhat jaded opinion is that people without electrical knowledge shouldn't be doing electrical work. Call an electrician!
Jesus buddy, he has at least basic knowledge and he made a safe repair and saved a lot of money on hiring an electrician who's gonna whack him for $200 for a five minute replacement. I replaced every outlet in my house when I first moved in 28 years ago along with installing four ceiling fans where no fixtures existed and replaced a half dozen fixtures with zero issues.
Actually I'm wrong, I did three ceiling fans after a "buddy" electrician did the first one saying he'd "take care of me" and charged me close to $400 and was done in half an hour. Wiring an entire home, yes, but changing out basic outlets and basic fixtures is not rocket science.
if you are at a place and are having this issue and replacing the receptacle is not an option you can spread the prongs on the cord ever so slightly. the extra width of the outlet prongs will generally create enough tension in a worn out receptacle to hold the plug in place.
That's the let the next sucker enjoy seeing his house or hotel room catch on fire "remedy." Loose contacts have increased contact constriction resistance which is what causes overheating of outlets. Forcing the receptacle contacts further apart is akin to sabotage. The circuit breakers won't detect that problem until the house is being consumed by flames.
@@pibbles-a-plenty1105 Hey of the manager is too cheap to replace it then it should burn down
I just spread the prongs on the plug out a little and that holds just fine.
Well the plastic of the outlet doesn't stretch but the stupid connectors on the inside of the thing do move out of alignment so if they're at the absolute outside you can spread the metal bits on the plug all you want but the plastic is still going to push them in you're going to get a crappy connection that's going to fall out
Unless the plug uses equally crappy materials.
I install floor covering for a living and quite often I will have a tool or my vacuum cleaner that I'll plug into an outlet in a home. Whenever I find one of those loose outlets were the plug will barely stay in, I'll bring it to the attention of the homeowner. I'll recommend they have it replaced or at the very least, tell them not to use it for space heaters or anything with a high current draw.
Any appliance cord that has a ground prong can make a loose connection feel secure when it's not.
I learned a few good things here, however' the duplex is installed up-side down. New code is for GROUND-PIN on TOP. The manufacture letters of TP confirm this, as you can see NP is also Up-Side Down.