I’ve looked everywhere for a video of some one staining/dyeing mdf black. If you search it on RUclips almost nothing pops up. So glad I stumbled across your video. Great job.
Nice bench. That pop up dog on the vice is such a small detail but at the same time a total game changer. My sawstop arrives next week and I plan to build a table around it. Will keep this vid in mind while designing. Subbed.
Man I like your design and thought process. The fact that you have 888 likes, in which the next like will be mine, is going to break apart your lucky number. In China, 888 is especially lucky.
Glad I stumbled on this. Great build sir. I love all those work benches. So much function. I do feel like an absolute moron though. I have been wanting that Bosch edge guide so bad but have the router set you own. Although I still want the Bosch set(I just love routers) it never occurred to me that the guide would work with the dewalts.
I mentioned it in the beginning and the end of the video. The reason is I made a design change and was too lazy to redo the loose tenons so I used pocket holes.
Great build. I feel for you doing all those dog holes with the drill. That’s why I haven’t purchased one of those set ups. I’m going to use my plunge router instead. Works better the way I see things
Curious as to why you opted to stain the vertical surface instead of laminating like you did the top? Great build either way. I’m looking to do something similar and incorporate it as an outfeed table.
Really appreciate your videos, Aaron. This bench is awesome as everyone has said. One thing I wondered about your prior pair of dovetail benches… I tracked that you said the edges snag things and glue ups can be tricky too. I’m curious why you went for one bigger bench this time rather than a couple of smaller modular benches, like you did with the dovetail Idea design. I also tracked that you said you wanted more mass out of this bench. Was that part of the drawback of the system you used before?
I built my previous workbench with the idea that my wife could park in the garage. That never happened lol. Also I like trying new things and never had dog holes. I am thinking about adding some dovetails to this new bench though too.
@@aaronbebeau thanks. I've come back to this one - and the micro fit one - several times. Good stuff. Were you happy with the swivel caster feet? I'm trying to decide between stationary feet on a t-nut with separate cam-engaged casters on the side, vs the exact ones you used in the matchfit workbench. Did you ever find that the bench moved when you didn't want it to, because of the swivels?
@@deanhobbs5388 if I ever decide to build a mobile workbench again I will definitely use the swivel casters again. They really do work well. The heavier the bench the better they work too. I’ve had the side mounted casters as well, but I do prefer these swivel ones. Hope this helps
After using this bench on multiple projects I can say yes I do prefer the dogs holes, but both would be great. I might run 1 dovetail slot in the future.
I shouldn’t assume, but I do assume you use a round over but to make those tenons. I have never had much luck with choosing the right bit. And with router bits, online shopping they never seem to give you much of a description or much detail. Is there a way that you use that always works? Like you plane a board to 1/2”, cut the width on the table saw, and then you choose what bit and how can that be easily translated to a smaller thickness with a different bit? You have the radius, the diameter, the cut height, and all that
As I said earlier, that’s a fantastic build. Laminated top, Dog holes, large siding and a good vise makes it a truly versatile workbench. It was certainly interesting to hear about the cord and clamps getting caught in the dovetail grooves of your old bench. I’ll surely watch out for those on mine 😂. Always good to see your family’s cameos! Great job Aaron! Oh I almost forgot to ask. What’s the black paint/stain you applied to the MDF panel on the side ?
Thank you for the kind words! The stain I used is Minwax True Black and the black dye is just a dye that I picked up at Woodcraft. I'm sure any black dye could be used though. This was the first time I tried the mixture of the two, and I am extremely happy with the outcome. This was a fun build!
I would like to make 5’x10’ jig table that would sit about 12” off the floor. What where the sizes of the MDF sheets you used? What size holes did you drill? The red devices what are they called?
@@aaronbebeau great! thank you! and what type of sealer did you use on the mdf? i’m new to all of this and there’s like a billion different sealers out there lol
Aaron, great video! this is the first one of yours that I have seen. I appreciate you addressing the cons of your previous matchfit assembly table. I am considering using the matchfit system for an assembly table as I already have several components. Did you find any issues with glue-ups on your old table? Such as glue getting in the groves? how did you keep them clean and glue-free? Thanks!
The glue wasn’t a major issue. I was diligent about covering the table with some paper while doing glue ups. I still might run a dovetail groove around the perimeter of this table. I just won’t put as many because it’s not needed. My advice would be to make a few grooves and the use the table for awhile. The beauty of the Matchfit system is you can add a groove anytime as long as you have the bits.
HEY.. BEFORE you get rid of those other MatchFit tables, I have a thought for you.. :) I guess you could always get back to cutting those "Sliding Dovetails :) and plug the dovetails at the top and outside edges of those tables you have left. Just get a snug fit and tap them, round them over so they don't catch the cord any more.. Ha... Then, drop a little bigger router bit and make 3-4" of one of the slots in some part of the table to be able to get your clamps back in.. Might be able to use a dog hole in a couple of the Intersections of the corners on your existing table to get the clamps into the grooves without using the table edges.. You would just loose a couple inches of each slot you widened to get the clamp in the slot.. Just thinking out loud. What do you have now? Dog holes on 6" Centers? Hard to tell from a video, but has to be at least 6" or more. I think the Dovetails would be a nice addition on the work table you have now. Just down the side in one area, and, some on the top to match those new side ones.. Just not to the edge of the table top. Check this out!! ruclips.net/video/6J2lygYQFD8/видео.html They use both the Dog Holes and Dove Tail Grooves. Not a bad combination.. It seems it would be nice when you start building cabinets, etc having the 90 degree clamping surface on top and 90 down. Given your experience, I think I'll do a small roll around table first Not the one in the video, just a table with castors I can drop a 4'x4' matchfit top on. (Just screw down the top for a bit and do one end down with a long match fit wall , and a short one on one long side, and leave the other long and short side with 4" of clamp area and see what I like.. Ha.. Sure seems like those would be some handy little tables if you got rid of some of the aggravations.. You did the right thing changing the design. I use F and C-Clamps on my Welding tables.. 99% of my clamping is holding something down to the table while tacking/welding. I built 2 roll around metal tables from gathered pieces/parts when I was 17 years old. The first table I built had Angle Iron under the table to the edge and down, making it impossible to use a C or F clamp from the top of the table. The second one, I chose to flip the angle around and have the flat on the outside and the down leg on the inside giving me about 3" of Clamping on the edge before the angle transition, then another 1.5" if I got up on the Angle to clamp.. But, that table had a piece of 1/8" plate on the top that had rounded edges and had been cut by hand, so, wasn't straight or square, so, I dedicated it to a chop saw and two bench grinders and used the first table I built with the angle leg dropping on the outside of the table.. I hated that, every time I grabbed a clamp and had to reach under the table to clamp it. I tacked pieces of square tube under it here and there, and finally Ran a 2x4 along one side and a 2 foot area on the other where I would often work. I grinned every time I had to clamp something for the next year or so.. Probably the same thing you do when you start sanding, and realize after 15 minutes, no cord hang ups.. Ha..Ha.. I didn't build another table for 10 years. It worked, and I had other things to build that were more important... Ha.. Which brings me to my next similar point.. I hate building prototypes too.. Damn things always work, but, never have what you would have put on the damn thing, had you known it was going to work so well anyway. No problem right? I'll just build another, but, it works, and you have other things to build.. Right? Ha.. That was 9 years ago and the damn thing still works just fine, does what I need it to do, so, I have not built another one. I even bought the stuff to build another once, and it sat in the shop. .Ha..Ha.. Finally, my buddy wanted to build one., and I already had the parts to build 1 more. I bought a HF 1hp motor, not realizing it would not work on Variable speed. That stopped me that time, and wasn't until my buddy wanted one and I had the motor and by then a set of step pulleys.. I had a plan. Build one for him, buy a 3phase and VFD for me.. Build one for him, then, I would finally build the Cadillac for me.. We got about 3/4 way through with it, and my buddy had a stroke, and, I put it in the back of the shop, so, I didn't have to look at it. I'm not going to finish it, until I get into my new shop. Then, I will stop and build both of them. One for the Metal shop and one for the wood shop, and, I'll call my buddy and see if he has anyone in the group that does not have one yet.. Why did I build the first one? A guy I just met invited me to a Blacksmith "Hammer Inn", and, everyone was standing around waiting to use this $4,000 grinder. I walked over and looked at it and said to myself, I bet I can figure out how to build one a lot cheaper. Most of the families didn't have $4k to drop on a 2"x72" Belt Grinder. So, I figured I would say thanks by building one on the cheap with just simple tools most DIY Garage Families would have. Then, I could give the design to the group where the individual families could afford to build one of their own. Well, it worked. 24 families in the group, and 23 built one of their own using skate board wheels everyone said wouldn't work.. I knew they would. I saw them being used in something called "Extreme Downhill Skateboard Racing". I immediately googled it, found out what kind of wheels and bearings a group like that would use.. I knew it would work for a grinder. Could not have been more than 30lbs of pressure on those belts... Anyway.. I started working on it about 9pm one night, finished it up at 6am the next morning. Didn't have a clue if I could get the tracking to work with wood, etc.. Didn't even sink the screws all the way in, until I had it working.. I made the video for the guy who invited me to the Hammer Inn. He was in Texas selling Christmas Trees and would be back home in a week.. He forwarded my video to the group and called me back in two weeks to tell me everyone either had one built or was in the process of building. One Dad sprung for a brand new Factory model for his kid, because the kid was good and was making/selling knives and making money with it. Now, you can search on RUclips and see a crapload of guys who used Skate board and wooden wheels. But, none before I posted my first video about it.. Ha..Ha.. Kinda cool.. Moral of the Story.. If it aggravates you, Fix it. But, on the prototype? Hmm... There was the skate board wheels that were not supposed to work, but, I was pretty sure they would(Hmm), and the tracking mechanism(Which I figured I could make it work, but, not with Crude tools everyone would have. I really didn't have the time to build it right then, but, decided I would give it a whirl one night. And, it worked so well, I didn't want to be without it, and, it became one of the tools that got used, every time I cut any piece of metal. Just to debur mostly, but, used it for a whole lot of things.. Even rounding ends on wood pieces, etc. It's about like a Disk or Belt sander is to a shop. One of those things, if you ever get one, the kinds of things you make expand, and you never want to be without one. Funny.. Get a good disk and belt grinder in a wood shop, and it will be the last time you cut anything right on the line again, if it can be done on the sander better.. Just like using a shooting board and plane when doing fine Joinery or miters, etc.. I think the guys who like to do hand tools and keep a plane and shooting board on the bench, just hate to sand anything... Hitting a board with a good sharp plane is about the same as sanding it to 1000 or 1200 grit.. The first time you get a good slice of end grain, it will blow your mind how smooth it is.. Anyway.. Back to my other projects.. I really enjoyed your videos.. I have one more bed build to watch and I think I covered the wood project videos.. Putting videos on youtube is kind of like writing a book about yourself for some future family member to see.. That cute little supervisor you have is very likely going to a corner in the shop she claims as her own, and, builds things for family and friends.. Sure is time better spent, that clicking likes on FB and IG.. Ha..ha.. You picked a good hobby.. Now, to get the wifey out there making things with you. When I was growing up, everyone my age was worried about Guess Jeans, Nike Shoes and the Friday night Football game. I couldn't wait to get home and tinker with something around the shop or yard, or, get to the woods in the winter months.. No regrets for sure...
Sounds like you’ve had some fun building some workbenches of your own. I would love to have a metal working shop too…maybe someday. Love getting my little supervisor out there with me. She will definitely be taking over someday.
@@aaronbebeau One at a time.. Ha..Ha.. But, if you start welding, the HF welders are good machines. Not top of the line, but, they work and I have been using mine for years and can weld anything I need to weld.. MIG with Gas is the easy, almost zero cleanup way to go.. Flux Core without Gas requires a good bit of cleanup.. A 4" angle grinder (Cheap Paddle Switch from HF) with the Resin Fiber Disks, Cut off Disks, and the typical 1/4" thick hard grinding disks will get you on your way.. Get one grinder for each type of disk since they are cheap.. Spend your money on a good Brand 4" grinder for a Heavy Wire Wheel Cup Brush 4" with "TWISTED" Wire for quick cleanup... A mid grade auto darkening helmet (Sub $50) next upgrade. Evolution Metal Chop Saw (Orange Version) is the next upgrade for cutting metal. Amazon Cut 50 or similar Plasma cutter the next for quick cool cutting and cutting curves, etc.. Get you a bunch of Vice Grip HF Welding Clamps with round pivoting heads and then spend $100 on some HF F-Clamps and a metal Table to work on and you should be able to do just about whatever you want to do.... Go for a metal frame base with replaceable 1/4" x 4" Flat bar slatted table.. Spacing between slats based on the width of the F-Clamps. And, if you have a buddy with a Mag Drill, buy him a 3/4" Core bit and layout a dog hole pattern for the table and cut a few cheaper HF F-Clamps to use in the dog holes. Fiber Resin Disks: Make sure you get these.. They will be your favorite way to grind.. Semi Flexible Pad that goes on the grinder and get some Ceramic Sanding disks at some point after you have used some of the AO, etc, disks.. Get them in 45 to 60 grit and the hard disks somewhere in the 30-45 range and you will be set. Hope that helps... Next best advice is to make a set of Story Sticks/Pinch Rods out of 1/8" and 1/16" x 1" Flat bar and make a clamp of some sort. (Vice grips work while you play with it).. Even better for wood working to make some for that.. Actual Measurements vs using a tape measure... Later research the "Tick Sticks".. You can't get any more accurate than this.. Check this video out exactly where it starts.. This is classic.. The guy thinks his box is square, but, builds him a Keepsake story stick set of brass nuckles and realizes his box is "NOT" square after all these years.. Ha..Ha... Imagine his stick with sharp points, thinner, and, flip one of the sticks over to be able to lay the stick down and get an accurate mark on a piece of stock and you can see the value in them.. That will really step up your wood working game when it counts.. ruclips.net/video/e5_1ZKX5foY/видео.html Then, get a piece of 1/4 plywood or mdf and some 1/2" and glue/nail them together as a backstop on your Miter saw and use the 3+4=5 Method to get the 90 and 45 just perfect on the saw and score your fence boards bottom and fence, so, you can make perfect cuts each time.. This is a guy who swears by them,, and don't miss the Shooting board at 16 minutes with the tape.. ruclips.net/video/_67fKSr4_wg/видео.html I saw you burnish one of your miter joints, which is fine, but, seeing how he does his miters on the Urn Box just brings a whole new light to fine woodworking.. You won't use it on every job, but, when precision counts, it is the only way to get things dead nuts perfect... I have been doing this for years, and make notes to share things when I see them on YT.. BTW.. While on his channel, check out his handles that he makes on his Saw Blade Box.. I saw this somewhere years ago and made a bunch for some small parts drawers where I decided to not put plywood on the back of a small cabinet, but, wanted a drawer stop.. Loved them, but, didn't think about using them on larger projects.. And, he bevels the drawer fronts, which I think is pretty cool in some applications, and something I am going to build play with at some point. Enjoy! When I get into my new shop,, I'll be making some vices for my tables... I'll send you one of them to replace that Yost... And, when I get another shop tool, I'll send you a retrofit Tail Vice design I am going to build... Cheers!
@@aaronbebeau Pinch/Story Sticks and Tick Sticks are two different animals for two different functions. Check out both. Use Sharp points on any of them to be more accurate.. Keep the Tick Stick handy, and, watch a few videos about them, and take an few minutes or an hour every now and then to mock up a scenario... When you grab for a set, nothing else can do what it does as far as I am aware of.. It basically allows you to trace something or an area, and take it with you somewhere else to re-create that same pattern. No need to build a template, etc. Ship builders can't live without them.. Easy way to replicate arc's, irregular patterns, etc... Well, well worth your time to look into them.. Hope you get that bench just right.. You never know exactly what you want until you build and tweak one or two for your own purpose. Cheers!
@@NewTestamentDocglad you like it. This is my favorite that I’ve had to date. Soon I will be adding storage cabinet to the underside. I wanted to use the table to make sure I liked it before I did all that for nothing. Reach out if you have any questions. 👍
Couple of reasons. One is cost, why pay an extra $50 per sheet if I’m covering it up with laminate. Two I wanted the extra weight to make it more dense. MDF is great for workbench tops.
A princess in the shop makes every job a royal job.
Love it when she comes out to visit 👍
@@aaronbebeau mine are all grown now. I miss it. Need grandkids.
Make as many memories with her as you can. Even if you miss a night in the shop. Too soon they are grown and gone😢
That’s good advice. It’s fun having her in the shop.
Outstanding job Aaron. I love that you let your daughter help. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks! I love having her help when it’s possible.
I’ve looked everywhere for a video of some one staining/dyeing mdf black. If you search it on RUclips almost nothing pops up. So glad I stumbled across your video. Great job.
This was my first time dyeing MDF and it worked pretty well. I will definitely be doing it again. Glad you found what you were looking for.
the child labour part was very heart-touching!
She loves being out there with me!
Thanks. I've been looking for YT video of somebody explaining the pros and cons of t-track system vs mft system for workbench.
Very nice workbench. True craftsmanship
Thank you
Very nice bench
Thanks!
Well done, I like it. The Vise for me is the best Vise you can buy, I use mine now 5 years and had never regret. 👍
It’s my first time having a vise. I won’t ever not have one now 👍
Маленькой принцессе и её родителям, здоровья и счастья.
Fantastic video, great craftsmanship and excellent parenting.
Thank you very much!
nice bench and nice presentation 👏 On point, detailed where necessary and not too wordy - wish more were like that ;)
Thank you
Love the bench you made here mate. Looking to do something similar.
Thank you! Let us know how yours turns out when you build it.
Awesome work bench! I'm building some what similar workbench right now, but a much smaller bench. Keep up the great work!
Let us know how your bench turns out. 👍
Nice bench. That pop up dog on the vice is such a small detail but at the same time a total game changer. My sawstop arrives next week and I plan to build a table around it. Will keep this vid in mind while designing. Subbed.
that black stain worked really well. nice job
Thanks I am happy with it.
@@aaronbebeau black stain looks great on the mdf, but what did you spray over it after staining?
@@andrewamina I used spar urethane
Splendide 🤩!!! On peut faire que de l’excellent travail avec ça
Bravo!!
Great job the workbench looks great
Thank you
Man I like your design and thought process. The fact that you have 888 likes, in which the next like will be mine, is going to break apart your lucky number. In China, 888 is especially lucky.
Thanks 👍
Dream workbench right there!
Love it! Actually planning to build the exact same bench. Love how you let your daughter in the shop with you.
It’s fun to slow down when she shows up
Glad I stumbled on this. Great build sir. I love all those work benches. So much function. I do feel like an absolute moron though. I have been wanting that Bosch edge guide so bad but have the router set you own. Although I still want the Bosch set(I just love routers) it never occurred to me that the guide would work with the dewalts.
@@Shannon-v3r yes sir! The Bosch edge guide works great! Glad you found the video helpful 👍
Would love a follow up on how the dog holes are working out for ya, and a few more details on how you hand drew and drilled them with the laminate
I will definitely do a follow up in the future. As far as the layout of the dog holes I just measured and marked my lines.
Hi, I love your workbench. Thanks for sharing. I have a doubt. Why in 12:10 did you cut al the structure and decided to put some kreg screws?
I mentioned it in the beginning and the end of the video. The reason is I made a design change and was too lazy to redo the loose tenons so I used pocket holes.
Great build. I feel for you doing all those dog holes with the drill. That’s why I haven’t purchased one of those set ups. I’m going to use my plunge router instead. Works better the way I see things
Yep a router would work too 👍
Curious as to why you opted to stain the vertical surface instead of laminating like you did the top? Great build either way. I’m looking to do something similar and incorporate it as an outfeed table.
Only reason is to save $100
Really appreciate your videos, Aaron. This bench is awesome as everyone has said. One thing I wondered about your prior pair of dovetail benches… I tracked that you said the edges snag things and glue ups can be tricky too. I’m curious why you went for one bigger bench this time rather than a couple of smaller modular benches, like you did with the dovetail Idea design. I also tracked that you said you wanted more mass out of this bench. Was that part of the drawback of the system you used before?
I built my previous workbench with the idea that my wife could park in the garage. That never happened lol. Also I like trying new things and never had dog holes. I am thinking about adding some dovetails to this new bench though too.
Thanks Aaron.
@@aaronbebeau thanks. I've come back to this one - and the micro fit one - several times. Good stuff. Were you happy with the swivel caster feet? I'm trying to decide between stationary feet on a t-nut with separate cam-engaged casters on the side, vs the exact ones you used in the matchfit workbench. Did you ever find that the bench moved when you didn't want it to, because of the swivels?
@@deanhobbs5388 if I ever decide to build a mobile workbench again I will definitely use the swivel casters again. They really do work well. The heavier the bench the better they work too. I’ve had the side mounted casters as well, but I do prefer these swivel ones. Hope this helps
What's the measuting tool you used to mark your tenon with? Thanks for any feedback
It’s called Incra Tiny-T
So you prefer the dog hole system over the match fit?
After using this bench on multiple projects I can say yes I do prefer the dogs holes, but both would be great. I might run 1 dovetail slot in the future.
@@aaronbebeau I know you tore down and rebuilt, but do you have a build list for either?
Reach out to me on Facebook and I can send you a PDF through messenger. Just search my name Aaron Bebeau
I shouldn’t assume, but I do assume you use a round over but to make those tenons. I have never had much luck with choosing the right bit. And with router bits, online shopping they never seem to give you much of a description or much detail. Is there a way that you use that always works? Like you plane a board to 1/2”, cut the width on the table saw, and then you choose what bit and how can that be easily translated to a smaller thickness with a different bit?
You have the radius, the diameter, the cut height, and all that
Yes I used a 1/2” bit for the mortises. Planed a board down to the correct thickness and then used a 3/8” round over bit for the edges.
As I said earlier, that’s a fantastic build. Laminated top, Dog holes, large siding and a good vise makes it a truly versatile workbench. It was certainly interesting to hear about the cord and clamps getting caught in the dovetail grooves of your old bench. I’ll surely watch out for those on mine 😂. Always good to see your family’s cameos! Great job Aaron! Oh I almost forgot to ask. What’s the black paint/stain you applied to the MDF panel on the side ?
Thank you for the kind words! The stain I used is Minwax True Black and the black dye is just a dye that I picked up at Woodcraft. I'm sure any black dye could be used though. This was the first time I tried the mixture of the two, and I am extremely happy with the outcome. This was a fun build!
I've had good results just using straight india ink. I got a big bottle of it ages ago and it turns things jet black
I know you changed design, but would you put your plans online?
I am currently developing plans and yes I will make them available.
I would like to make 5’x10’ jig table that would sit about 12” off the floor. What where the sizes of the MDF sheets you used? What size holes did you drill? The red devices what are they called?
MDF sheets are 4’x8’
Dog holes are 3/4”
Red things are called dogs
Nice build. Where did you get the blue MDF that’s on your cabinets?
It was just left over paint from a previous project.
What is the top made of and where to get it? Guessing laminate.
Yes you are correct it’s laminate.
The problem with such a nice workbenck is i wont do any work on it and risk of scratching it 😂
lol I hear ya! The trick is to grab your knife and scratch it right away. Christen it so to speak 😉
@@aaronbebeau lol let's scratch it. Then I get the perfect excuse to make a new one
😉
omg the black dye on the mdf looks nice! how is it holding up?
@@brandoncjgrimes it’s holding up great!
@@aaronbebeau great! thank you! and what type of sealer did you use on the mdf? i’m new to all of this and there’s like a billion different sealers out there lol
@@brandoncjgrimes I used minwax polycrylic. It’s just something I had on hand. It’s holding up good too.
Do you like the dog holes or the micro jig slots better?
They both have there place. If I had to choose one I’d pick dog holes but I am going to add the microjig grooves to this bench as well in the future.
Aaron, great video! this is the first one of yours that I have seen. I appreciate you addressing the cons of your previous matchfit assembly table. I am considering using the matchfit system for an assembly table as I already have several components. Did you find any issues with glue-ups on your old table? Such as glue getting in the groves? how did you keep them clean and glue-free? Thanks!
The glue wasn’t a major issue. I was diligent about covering the table with some paper while doing glue ups. I still might run a dovetail groove around the perimeter of this table. I just won’t put as many because it’s not needed. My advice would be to make a few grooves and the use the table for awhile. The beauty of the Matchfit system is you can add a groove anytime as long as you have the bits.
Do you have any drawings for this. I would love to study it more.
I will have plans soon
HEY.. BEFORE you get rid of those other MatchFit tables, I have a thought for you.. :)
I guess you could always get back to cutting those "Sliding Dovetails :) and plug the dovetails at the top and outside edges of those tables you have left. Just get a snug fit and tap them, round them over so they don't catch the cord any more.. Ha...
Then, drop a little bigger router bit and make 3-4" of one of the slots in some part of the table to be able to get your clamps back in.. Might be able to use a dog hole in a couple of the Intersections of the corners on your existing table to get the clamps into the grooves without using the table edges..
You would just loose a couple inches of each slot you widened to get the clamp in the slot.. Just thinking out loud.
What do you have now? Dog holes on 6" Centers? Hard to tell from a video, but has to be at least 6" or more.
I think the Dovetails would be a nice addition on the work table you have now.
Just down the side in one area, and, some on the top to match those new side ones..
Just not to the edge of the table top.
Check this out!! ruclips.net/video/6J2lygYQFD8/видео.html
They use both the Dog Holes and Dove Tail Grooves. Not a bad combination..
It seems it would be nice when you start building cabinets, etc having the 90 degree clamping surface on top and 90 down.
Given your experience, I think I'll do a small roll around table first Not the one in the video, just a table with castors I can drop a 4'x4' matchfit top on. (Just screw down the top for a bit and do one end down with a long match fit wall , and a short one on one long side, and leave the other long and short side with 4" of clamp area and see what I like.. Ha.. Sure seems like those would be some handy little tables if you got rid of some of the aggravations..
You did the right thing changing the design.
I use F and C-Clamps on my Welding tables.. 99% of my clamping is holding something down to the table while tacking/welding.
I built 2 roll around metal tables from gathered pieces/parts when I was 17 years old.
The first table I built had Angle Iron under the table to the edge and down, making it impossible to use a C or F clamp from the top of the table.
The second one, I chose to flip the angle around and have the flat on the outside and the down leg on the inside giving me about 3" of Clamping on the edge before the angle transition, then another 1.5" if I got up on the Angle to clamp..
But, that table had a piece of 1/8" plate on the top that had rounded edges and had been cut by hand, so, wasn't straight or square, so, I dedicated it to a chop saw and two bench grinders and used the first table I built with the angle leg dropping on the outside of the table..
I hated that, every time I grabbed a clamp and had to reach under the table to clamp it.
I tacked pieces of square tube under it here and there, and finally Ran a 2x4 along one side and a 2 foot area on the other where I would often work.
I grinned every time I had to clamp something for the next year or so..
Probably the same thing you do when you start sanding, and realize after 15 minutes, no cord hang ups.. Ha..Ha..
I didn't build another table for 10 years. It worked, and I had other things to build that were more important... Ha..
Which brings me to my next similar point..
I hate building prototypes too.. Damn things always work, but, never have what you would have put on the damn thing, had you known it was going to work so well anyway.
No problem right? I'll just build another, but, it works, and you have other things to build.. Right? Ha..
That was 9 years ago and the damn thing still works just fine, does what I need it to do, so, I have not built another one.
I even bought the stuff to build another once, and it sat in the shop. .Ha..Ha..
Finally, my buddy wanted to build one., and I already had the parts to build 1 more.
I bought a HF 1hp motor, not realizing it would not work on Variable speed.
That stopped me that time, and wasn't until my buddy wanted one and I had the motor and by then a set of step pulleys..
I had a plan. Build one for him, buy a 3phase and VFD for me..
Build one for him, then, I would finally build the Cadillac for me..
We got about 3/4 way through with it, and my buddy had a stroke, and, I put it in the back of the shop, so, I didn't have to look at it. I'm not going to finish it, until I get into my new shop.
Then, I will stop and build both of them. One for the Metal shop and one for the wood shop, and, I'll call my buddy and see if he has anyone in the group that does not have one yet..
Why did I build the first one? A guy I just met invited me to a Blacksmith "Hammer Inn", and, everyone was standing around waiting to use this $4,000 grinder.
I walked over and looked at it and said to myself, I bet I can figure out how to build one a lot cheaper.
Most of the families didn't have $4k to drop on a 2"x72" Belt Grinder.
So, I figured I would say thanks by building one on the cheap with just simple tools most DIY Garage Families would have.
Then, I could give the design to the group where the individual families could afford to build one of their own. Well, it worked. 24 families in the group, and 23 built one of their own using skate board wheels everyone said wouldn't work.. I knew they would. I saw them being used in something called "Extreme Downhill Skateboard Racing".
I immediately googled it, found out what kind of wheels and bearings a group like that would use.. I knew it would work for a grinder. Could not have been more than 30lbs of pressure on those belts...
Anyway.. I started working on it about 9pm one night, finished it up at 6am the next morning. Didn't have a clue if I could get the tracking to work with wood, etc.. Didn't even sink the screws all the way in, until I had it working.. I made the video for the guy who invited me to the Hammer Inn. He was in Texas selling Christmas Trees and would be back home in a week.. He forwarded my video to the group and called me back in two weeks to tell me everyone either had one built or was in the process of building. One Dad sprung for a brand new Factory model for his kid, because the kid was good and was making/selling knives and making money with it.
Now, you can search on RUclips and see a crapload of guys who used Skate board and wooden wheels. But, none before I posted my first video about it.. Ha..Ha.. Kinda cool..
Moral of the Story.. If it aggravates you, Fix it.
But, on the prototype? Hmm... There was the skate board wheels that were not supposed to work, but, I was pretty sure they would(Hmm), and the tracking mechanism(Which I figured I could make it work, but, not with Crude tools everyone would have. I really didn't have the time to build it right then, but, decided I would give it a whirl one night. And, it worked so well, I didn't want to be without it, and, it became one of the tools that got used, every time I cut any piece of metal. Just to debur mostly, but, used it for a whole lot of things.. Even rounding ends on wood pieces, etc.
It's about like a Disk or Belt sander is to a shop. One of those things, if you ever get one, the kinds of things you make expand, and you never want to be without one.
Funny.. Get a good disk and belt grinder in a wood shop, and it will be the last time you cut anything right on the line again, if it can be done on the sander better.. Just like using a shooting board and plane when doing fine Joinery or miters, etc..
I think the guys who like to do hand tools and keep a plane and shooting board on the bench, just hate to sand anything... Hitting a board with a good sharp plane is about the same as sanding it to 1000 or 1200 grit.. The first time you get a good slice of end grain, it will blow your mind how smooth it is.. Anyway.. Back to my other projects..
I really enjoyed your videos.. I have one more bed build to watch and I think I covered the wood project videos..
Putting videos on youtube is kind of like writing a book about yourself for some future family member to see..
That cute little supervisor you have is very likely going to a corner in the shop she claims as her own, and, builds things for family and friends.. Sure is time better spent, that clicking likes on FB and IG.. Ha..ha.. You picked a good hobby.. Now, to get the wifey out there making things with you.
When I was growing up, everyone my age was worried about Guess
Jeans, Nike Shoes and the Friday night Football game. I couldn't wait to get home and tinker with something around the shop or yard, or, get to the woods in the winter months.. No regrets for sure...
Sounds like you’ve had some fun building some workbenches of your own. I would love to have a metal working shop too…maybe someday. Love getting my little supervisor out there with me. She will definitely be taking over someday.
@@aaronbebeau One at a time.. Ha..Ha.. But, if you start welding, the HF welders are good machines. Not top of the line, but, they work and I have been using mine for years and can weld anything I need to weld..
MIG with Gas is the easy, almost zero cleanup way to go.. Flux Core without Gas requires a good bit of cleanup.. A 4" angle grinder (Cheap Paddle Switch from HF) with the Resin Fiber Disks, Cut off Disks, and the typical 1/4" thick hard grinding disks will get you on your way.. Get one grinder for each type of disk since they are cheap.. Spend your money on a good Brand 4" grinder for a Heavy Wire Wheel Cup Brush 4" with "TWISTED" Wire for quick cleanup... A mid grade auto darkening helmet (Sub $50) next upgrade. Evolution Metal Chop Saw (Orange Version) is the next upgrade for cutting metal. Amazon Cut 50 or similar Plasma cutter the next for quick cool cutting and cutting curves, etc..
Get you a bunch of Vice Grip HF Welding Clamps with round pivoting heads and then spend $100 on some HF F-Clamps and a metal Table to work on and you should be able to do just about whatever you want to do.... Go for a metal frame base with replaceable 1/4" x 4" Flat bar slatted table.. Spacing between slats based on the width of the F-Clamps. And, if you have a buddy with a Mag Drill, buy him a 3/4" Core bit and layout a dog hole pattern for the table and cut a few cheaper HF F-Clamps to use in the dog holes.
Fiber Resin Disks: Make sure you get these.. They will be your favorite way to grind.. Semi Flexible Pad that goes on the grinder and get some Ceramic Sanding disks at some point after you have used some of the AO, etc, disks.. Get them in 45 to 60 grit and the hard disks somewhere in the 30-45 range and you will be set.
Hope that helps...
Next best advice is to make a set of Story Sticks/Pinch Rods out of 1/8" and 1/16" x 1" Flat bar and make a clamp of some sort. (Vice grips work while you play with it).. Even better for wood working to make some for that.. Actual Measurements vs using a tape measure... Later research the "Tick Sticks"..
You can't get any more accurate than this.. Check this video out exactly where it starts.. This is classic..
The guy thinks his box is square, but, builds him a Keepsake story stick set of brass nuckles and realizes his box is "NOT" square after all these years.. Ha..Ha... Imagine his stick with sharp points, thinner, and, flip one of the sticks over to be able to lay the stick down and get an accurate mark on a piece of stock and you can see the value in them.. That will really step up your wood working game when it counts..
ruclips.net/video/e5_1ZKX5foY/видео.html
Then, get a piece of 1/4 plywood or mdf and some 1/2" and glue/nail them together as a backstop on your Miter saw and use the 3+4=5 Method to get the 90 and 45 just perfect on the saw and score your fence boards bottom and fence, so, you can make perfect cuts each time..
This is a guy who swears by them,, and don't miss the Shooting board at 16 minutes with the tape..
ruclips.net/video/_67fKSr4_wg/видео.html
I saw you burnish one of your miter joints, which is fine, but, seeing how he does his miters on the Urn Box just brings a whole new light to fine woodworking.. You won't use it on every job, but, when precision counts, it is the only way to get things dead nuts perfect... I have been doing this for years, and make notes to share things when I see them on YT.. BTW.. While on his channel, check out his handles that he makes on his Saw Blade Box.. I saw this somewhere years ago and made a bunch for some small parts drawers where I decided to not put plywood on the back of a small cabinet, but, wanted a drawer stop.. Loved them, but, didn't think about using them on larger projects.. And, he bevels the drawer fronts, which I think is pretty cool in some applications, and something I am going to build play with at some point.
Enjoy! When I get into my new shop,, I'll be making some vices for my tables... I'll send you one of them to replace that Yost... And, when I get another shop tool, I'll send you a retrofit Tail Vice design I am going to build... Cheers!
@@MarkThomas123 thanks for the tips! I enjoyed watching those videos. Those bench sticks are pretty cool. Might need to build me some.
@@aaronbebeau Pinch/Story Sticks and Tick Sticks are two different animals for two different functions. Check out both.
Use Sharp points on any of them to be more accurate.. Keep the Tick Stick handy, and, watch a few videos about them, and take an few minutes or an hour every now and then to mock up a scenario... When you grab for a set, nothing else can do what it does as far as I am aware of.. It basically allows you to trace something or an area, and take it with you somewhere else to re-create that same pattern. No need to build a template, etc.
Ship builders can't live without them.. Easy way to replicate arc's, irregular patterns, etc...
Well, well worth your time to look into them..
Hope you get that bench just right.. You never know exactly what you want until you build and tweak one or two for your own purpose. Cheers!
another youtuber said that to laminate onto mdf, you need to have 2 coats and wait for it to dry. You didn't do that. how did it turn out?
@@NewTestamentDoc still rock solid as the first day. Definitely wouldn’t hurt doing multiple coats though 👍
@@aaronbebeau really appreciate your input. My next table is going to be based on yours!
@@NewTestamentDocglad you like it. This is my favorite that I’ve had to date. Soon I will be adding storage cabinet to the underside. I wanted to use the table to make sure I liked it before I did all that for nothing. Reach out if you have any questions. 👍
I dont understand why you used mdf and not plywood🤔🤔🤔
Couple of reasons. One is cost, why pay an extra $50 per sheet if I’m covering it up with laminate. Two I wanted the extra weight to make it more dense. MDF is great for workbench tops.
Need plans 👍🏻
I am in the process of developing them. 👍
@@aaronbebeau top quality worktable 👍🏻